I've got a new microwave that requires bringing another 20A circuit to the
kitchen. I have a Leviton 20A outlet (model J-2651) that I want to "duplex"
so that 40 amps comes to the box from two different 12/2 w/G cables from two
different breakers (20A upper/20A lower outlet).

I see a thin strip of metal which I believe is called the bridging tab with
a narrow gap running between the two outlets. I assume is what I need to
cut to bring one circuit to the lower outlet and another to the upper
outlet.

The question is how best to cut it. Dremel? Remove the plate from the
outlet and use wire cutters? Needle-nosed pliers?

I also assume I need to check afterwards with an ohmmeter to insure cutting
the tabs really did isolate the outlets from each other.

I've also read for safety reasons the two circuits should be fed from a
tandem breaker so both circuits are de-energized when shut off or tripped.
That sounds right. Is it? Does the outlet need to marked to indicate the
dual-circuit feed?

One site I looked at said not to disconnect the neutral bridging tab, only
the hot side? Right or wrong or makes no difference? My inclination is that
it has too be cut, too.

I recall reading a dual-feed 40A outlet is standard technique in Canada but
is it legal in the US?

Is it just best to bite the bullet and gouge out another hole in the plaster
to install a completely separate outlet? frown

SH

On Wed, 16 Nov 2016 11:42:38 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

I've got a new microwave that requires bringing another 20A circuit to the
kitchen. I have a Leviton 20A outlet (model J-2651) that I want to "duplex"
so that 40 amps comes to the box from two different 12/2 w/G cables from two
different breakers (20A upper/20A lower outlet).

I see a thin strip of metal which I believe is called the bridging tab with
a narrow gap running between the two outlets. I assume is what I need to
cut to bring one circuit to the lower outlet and another to the upper
outlet.

The question is how best to cut it. Dremel? Remove the plate from the
outlet and use wire cutters? Needle-nosed pliers?

I also assume I need to check afterwards with an ohmmeter to insure cutting
the tabs really did isolate the outlets from each other.

I've also read for safety reasons the two circuits should be fed from a
tandem breaker so both circuits are de-energized when shut off or tripped.
That sounds right. Is it? Does the outlet need to marked to indicate the
dual-circuit feed?

One site I looked at said not to disconnect the neutral bridging tab, only
the hot side? Right or wrong or makes no difference? My inclination is that
it has too be cut, too.

I recall reading a dual-feed 40A outlet is standard technique in Canada but
is it legal in the US?

Is it just best to bite the bullet and gouge out another hole in the plaster
to install a completely separate outlet? frown

SH


Yes, if you break the tabs, you isolate the receptacles.
Usually you just grab them with pliers, wiggle it back and forth and
it will break off.
The only issue might be box fill.

I've got a new microwave that requires bringing another 20A circuit to the
kitchen. I have a Leviton 20A outlet (model J-2651) that I want to "duplex"
so that 40 amps comes to the box from two different 12/2 w/G cables from two
different breakers (20A upper/20A lower outlet).

I see a thin strip of metal which I believe is called the bridging tab with
a narrow gap running between the two outlets. I assume is what I need to
cut to bring one circuit to the lower outlet and another to the upper
outlet.

The question is how best to cut it. Dremel? Remove the plate from the
outlet and use wire cutters? Needle-nosed pliers?

I also assume I need to check afterwards with an ohmmeter to insure cutting
the tabs really did isolate the outlets from each other.

I've also read for safety reasons the two circuits should be fed from a
tandem breaker so both circuits are de-energized when shut off or tripped.
That sounds right. Is it? Does the outlet need to marked to indicate the
dual-circuit feed?

One site I looked at said not to disconnect the neutral bridging tab, only
the hot side? Right or wrong or makes no difference? My inclination is that
it has too be cut, too.

I recall reading a dual-feed 40A outlet is standard technique in Canada but
is it legal in the US?

Is it just best to bite the bullet and gouge out another hole in the plaster
to install a completely separate outlet? frown

SH

The tabs break off very easily. You can cut them off or use needle nose pliers to bend them forth and back.

You will need to use a two pole circuit breaker for this set up so that both sides of the outlet are de-engerized for servicing.

John Grabowski
http://www.MrElectrician.TV

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Nov 2016 11:42:38 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

I've got a new microwave that requires bringing another 20A circuit to
the
kitchen. I have a Leviton 20A outlet (model J-2651) that I want to
"duplex"
so that 40 amps comes to the box from two different 12/2 w/G cables from
two
different breakers (20A upper/20A lower outlet).

I see a thin strip of metal which I believe is called the bridging tab
with
a narrow gap running between the two outlets. I assume is what I need to
cut to bring one circuit to the lower outlet and another to the upper
outlet.

The question is how best to cut it. Dremel? Remove the plate from the
outlet and use wire cutters? Needle-nosed pliers?

I also assume I need to check afterwards with an ohmmeter to insure
cutting
the tabs really did isolate the outlets from each other.

I've also read for safety reasons the two circuits should be fed from a
tandem breaker so both circuits are de-energized when shut off or
tripped.
That sounds right. Is it? Does the outlet need to marked to indicate
the
dual-circuit feed?

One site I looked at said not to disconnect the neutral bridging tab,
only
the hot side? Right or wrong or makes no difference? My inclination is
that
it has too be cut, too.

I recall reading a dual-feed 40A outlet is standard technique in Canada
but
is it legal in the US?

Is it just best to bite the bullet and gouge out another hole in the
plaster
to install a completely separate outlet? frown

SH


Yes, if you break the tabs, you isolate the receptacles.
Usually you just grab them with pliers, wiggle it back and forth and
it will break off.
The only issue might be box fill.

Thanks. Agree box fill but this is a "end of circuit box" with only one
wire entering it (for now). Also selected this particular Leviton outlet
for both the 20A rating and because it was called either narrow or shallow
or somehow implied it was smaller than average. I doubt box fill will be an
issue but now I am more concerned if the outlet needs to have a tandem
breaker if two different circuits are feeding one outlet.

SH

On Wed, 16 Nov 2016 13:50:03 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 16 Nov 2016 11:42:38 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

I've got a new microwave that requires bringing another 20A circuit to
the
kitchen. I have a Leviton 20A outlet (model J-2651) that I want to
"duplex"
so that 40 amps comes to the box from two different 12/2 w/G cables from
two
different breakers (20A upper/20A lower outlet).

I see a thin strip of metal which I believe is called the bridging tab
with
a narrow gap running between the two outlets. I assume is what I need to
cut to bring one circuit to the lower outlet and another to the upper
outlet.

The question is how best to cut it. Dremel? Remove the plate from the
outlet and use wire cutters? Needle-nosed pliers?

I also assume I need to check afterwards with an ohmmeter to insure
cutting
the tabs really did isolate the outlets from each other.

I've also read for safety reasons the two circuits should be fed from a
tandem breaker so both circuits are de-energized when shut off or
tripped.
That sounds right. Is it? Does the outlet need to marked to indicate
the
dual-circuit feed?

One site I looked at said not to disconnect the neutral bridging tab,
only
the hot side? Right or wrong or makes no difference? My inclination is
that
it has too be cut, too.

I recall reading a dual-feed 40A outlet is standard technique in Canada
but
is it legal in the US?

Is it just best to bite the bullet and gouge out another hole in the
plaster
to install a completely separate outlet? frown

SH


Yes, if you break the tabs, you isolate the receptacles.
Usually you just grab them with pliers, wiggle it back and forth and
it will break off.
The only issue might be box fill.

Thanks. Agree box fill but this is a "end of circuit box" with only one
wire entering it (for now). Also selected this particular Leviton outlet
for both the 20A rating and because it was called either narrow or shallow
or somehow implied it was smaller than average. I doubt box fill will be an
issue but now I am more concerned if the outlet needs to have a tandem
breaker if two different circuits are feeding one outlet.

SH

I agree with John's suggestion that you should have a tandem breaker
or even 2 breakers with a handle tie but if you are not sharing the
neutral, it is not code. It does create a danger tho if you do not get
both turned off before you go into that box.
It should be easy to move breakers around to get them next to each
other so you can handle tie them.

On Wed, 16 Nov 2016 11:42:38 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

I've got a new microwave that requires bringing another 20A circuit to the
kitchen. I have a Leviton 20A outlet (model J-2651) that I want to "duplex"
so that 40 amps comes to the box from two different 12/2 w/G cables from two
different breakers (20A upper/20A lower outlet).

I see a thin strip of metal which I believe is called the bridging tab with
a narrow gap running between the two outlets. I assume is what I need to
cut to bring one circuit to the lower outlet and another to the upper
outlet.

The question is how best to cut it. Dremel? Remove the plate from the
outlet and use wire cutters? Needle-nosed pliers?

I also assume I need to check afterwards with an ohmmeter to insure cutting
the tabs really did isolate the outlets from each other.

I've also read for safety reasons the two circuits should be fed from a
tandem breaker so both circuits are de-energized when shut off or tripped.
That sounds right. Is it? Does the outlet need to marked to indicate the
dual-circuit feed?

One site I looked at said not to disconnect the neutral bridging tab, only
the hot side? Right or wrong or makes no difference? My inclination is that
it has too be cut, too.

I recall reading a dual-feed 40A outlet is standard technique in Canada but
is it legal in the US?

Is it just best to bite the bullet and gouge out another hole in the plaster
to install a completely separate outlet? frown

SH


The tabs snap right out with whatever pliers you have on hand, or even
a slot screwdriver. When the link is out, it's out. To be "code
comliant" you want to use a ganged (240 volt type) breaker so when the
breaker on one side is off the other one is too - and then you may as
well just use a single 12/3 cable in an "edison circuit"
It IS legal in the US as an edison circuit. Using 2 12/2 cables MAY be
legal, but only with a twinned or ganged breaker from my
understanding.

On Wed, 16 Nov 2016 13:50:03 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 16 Nov 2016 11:42:38 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

I've got a new microwave that requires bringing another 20A circuit to
the
kitchen. I have a Leviton 20A outlet (model J-2651) that I want to
"duplex"
so that 40 amps comes to the box from two different 12/2 w/G cables from
two
different breakers (20A upper/20A lower outlet).

I see a thin strip of metal which I believe is called the bridging tab
with
a narrow gap running between the two outlets. I assume is what I need to
cut to bring one circuit to the lower outlet and another to the upper
outlet.

The question is how best to cut it. Dremel? Remove the plate from the
outlet and use wire cutters? Needle-nosed pliers?

I also assume I need to check afterwards with an ohmmeter to insure
cutting
the tabs really did isolate the outlets from each other.

I've also read for safety reasons the two circuits should be fed from a
tandem breaker so both circuits are de-energized when shut off or
tripped.
That sounds right. Is it? Does the outlet need to marked to indicate
the
dual-circuit feed?

One site I looked at said not to disconnect the neutral bridging tab,
only
the hot side? Right or wrong or makes no difference? My inclination is
that
it has too be cut, too.

I recall reading a dual-feed 40A outlet is standard technique in Canada
but
is it legal in the US?

Is it just best to bite the bullet and gouge out another hole in the
plaster
to install a completely separate outlet? frown

SH


Yes, if you break the tabs, you isolate the receptacles.
Usually you just grab them with pliers, wiggle it back and forth and
it will break off.
The only issue might be box fill.

Thanks. Agree box fill but this is a "end of circuit box" with only one
wire entering it (for now). Also selected this particular Leviton outlet
for both the 20A rating and because it was called either narrow or shallow
or somehow implied it was smaller than average. I doubt box fill will be an
issue but now I am more concerned if the outlet needs to have a tandem
breaker if two different circuits are feeding one outlet.

SH

It DOES need a "linked" breaker -at least anywhere I've seen it done.
Basically you install a 240 volt circuit and split it at the outlet
(edison circuit)

On Wed, 16 Nov 2016 11:42:38 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

I've got a new microwave that requires bringing another 20A circuit to the
kitchen. I have a Leviton 20A outlet (model J-2651) that I want to "duplex"
so that 40 amps comes to the box from two different 12/2 w/G cables from two
different breakers (20A upper/20A lower outlet).

I see a thin strip of metal which I believe is called the bridging tab with
a narrow gap running between the two outlets. I assume is what I need to
cut to bring one circuit to the lower outlet and another to the upper
outlet.

The question is how best to cut it. Dremel? Remove the plate from the
outlet and use wire cutters? Needle-nosed pliers?

I also assume I need to check afterwards with an ohmmeter to insure cutting
the tabs really did isolate the outlets from each other.

I've also read for safety reasons the two circuits should be fed from a
tandem breaker so both circuits are de-energized when shut off or tripped.
That sounds right. Is it? Does the outlet need to marked to indicate the
dual-circuit feed?

One site I looked at said not to disconnect the neutral bridging tab, only
the hot side? Right or wrong or makes no difference? My inclination is that
it has too be cut, too.

I recall reading a dual-feed 40A outlet is standard technique in Canada but
is it legal in the US?

Is it just best to bite the bullet and gouge out another hole in the plaster
to install a completely separate outlet? frown

SH


I assume you will have to run another cable to that outlet. How do you
intend to run that cable without removing plaster?

Simple solution: Remove enough plaster next to the existing box, to fit
another box. That will allow you enough space to remove the existing box
in order to attach another box to it (assuming it's a metal box which
can be ganged). Before you install the ganged (double) box, run your new
cable thru the wall. Put the ganged box into the wall, using whatever
attachment method is available for your wall. (Of course feed the new
cable into that box first).

Now you will have TWO separate DUPLEX outlets. Next to each other. Each
will have a different breaker, but they can be standard single circuit
breakers.

This is the RIGHT, and the EASY way to do it, and you get a total of
FOUR outlets, not TWO in the end.

In article ,
says...
intend to run that cable without removing plaster?

Simple solution: Remove enough plaster next to the existing box, to fit
another box. That will allow you enough space to remove the existing box
in order to attach another box to it (assuming it's a metal box which
can be ganged). Before you install the ganged (double) box, run your new
cable thru the wall. Put the ganged box into the wall, using whatever
attachment method is available for your wall. (Of course feed the new
cable into that box first).

Now you will have TWO separate DUPLEX outlets. Next to each other. Each
will have a different breaker, but they can be standard single circuit
breakers.

This is the RIGHT, and the EASY way to do it, and you get a total of
FOUR outlets, not TWO in the end.

That is similar to what I did. I needed a 240 outlet and some 120 volt
outlets. I ran a 3 conductor with ground from a 240 volt breaker. Went
to the 240 volt outlet and split from there to 2 duplex outlets. That
gave me 4 120 volt outlets where I could draw 20 amps from each pair.

On Wednesday, November 16, 2016 at 9:20:37 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wed, 16 Nov 2016 11:42:38 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

I've got a new microwave that requires bringing another 20A circuit to the
kitchen. I have a Leviton 20A outlet (model J-2651) that I want to "duplex"
so that 40 amps comes to the box from two different 12/2 w/G cables from two
different breakers (20A upper/20A lower outlet).

I see a thin strip of metal which I believe is called the bridging tab with
a narrow gap running between the two outlets. I assume is what I need to
cut to bring one circuit to the lower outlet and another to the upper
outlet.

The question is how best to cut it. Dremel? Remove the plate from the
outlet and use wire cutters? Needle-nosed pliers?

I also assume I need to check afterwards with an ohmmeter to insure cutting
the tabs really did isolate the outlets from each other.

I've also read for safety reasons the two circuits should be fed from a
tandem breaker so both circuits are de-energized when shut off or tripped.
That sounds right. Is it? Does the outlet need to marked to indicate the
dual-circuit feed?

One site I looked at said not to disconnect the neutral bridging tab, only
the hot side? Right or wrong or makes no difference? My inclination is that
it has too be cut, too.

I recall reading a dual-feed 40A outlet is standard technique in Canada but
is it legal in the US?

Is it just best to bite the bullet and gouge out another hole in the plaster
to install a completely separate outlet? frown

SH


I assume you will have to run another cable to that outlet. How do you
intend to run that cable without removing plaster?

The same way it's been done millions of times in the past.

Why do you think plaster has to be removed just to run a cable to a box?




Simple solution: Remove enough plaster next to the existing box, to fit
another box. That will allow you enough space to remove the existing box
in order to attach another box to it (assuming it's a metal box which
can be ganged). Before you install the ganged (double) box, run your new
cable thru the wall. Put the ganged box into the wall, using whatever
attachment method is available for your wall. (Of course feed the new
cable into that box first).

Now you will have TWO separate DUPLEX outlets. Next to each other. Each
will have a different breaker, but they can be standard single circuit
breakers.

This is the RIGHT, and the EASY way to do it, and you get a total of
FOUR outlets, not TWO in the end.

What makes it the "right" way? There is nothing "wrong" with a split receptacle.

"John G" wrote in message
...
I've got a new microwave that requires bringing another 20A circuit to
the
kitchen. I have a Leviton 20A outlet (model J-2651) that I want to
"duplex"
so that 40 amps comes to the box from two different 12/2 w/G cables from
two
different breakers (20A upper/20A lower outlet).

I see a thin strip of metal which I believe is called the bridging tab
with
a narrow gap running between the two outlets. I assume is what I need
to
cut to bring one circuit to the lower outlet and another to the upper
outlet.

The question is how best to cut it. Dremel? Remove the plate from the
outlet and use wire cutters? Needle-nosed pliers?

I also assume I need to check afterwards with an ohmmeter to insure
cutting
the tabs really did isolate the outlets from each other.

I've also read for safety reasons the two circuits should be fed from a
tandem breaker so both circuits are de-energized when shut off or
tripped.
That sounds right. Is it? Does the outlet need to marked to indicate
the
dual-circuit feed?

One site I looked at said not to disconnect the neutral bridging tab,
only
the hot side? Right or wrong or makes no difference? My inclination is
that
it has too be cut, too.

I recall reading a dual-feed 40A outlet is standard technique in Canada
but
is it legal in the US?

Is it just best to bite the bullet and gouge out another hole in the
plaster
to install a completely separate outlet? frown

SH

The tabs break off very easily. You can cut them off or use needle nose
pliers to bend them forth and back.

You will need to use a two pole circuit breaker for this set up so that
both sides of the outlet are de-engerized for servicing.

John Grabowski
http://www.MrElectrician.TV

Thanks! One side of the bridge tab seems a lot easier to bend out than the
other but if I muck it up I've got another.

Am I correct in assuming with a tandem breaker if one circuit pops, the
other is shut off even though it's still OK? Does a tandem breaker show
which circuit had the fault?

I'm beginning to see some advantages in bringing out the Sawzall and all the
rest of the tools it takes to add a new outlet to very old plaster-lathe
construction. double frown

SH

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 00:49:09 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

Thanks! One side of the bridge tab seems a lot easier to bend out than the
other but if I muck it up I've got another.

Am I correct in assuming with a tandem breaker if one circuit pops, the
other is shut off even though it's still OK? Does a tandem breaker show
which circuit had the fault?

I'm beginning to see some advantages in bringing out the Sawzall and all the
rest of the tools it takes to add a new outlet to very old plaster-lathe
construction. double frown

SH

That is one advantage of using 2 single pole breakers, handle tied. If
you have one tripping you can remove the handle tie to isolate
although in most designs it will be apparent.
As I said before it is recommended in a box with multiple circuits but
not required as long as you are not sharing the neutral.

On Saturday, November 19, 2016 at 12:52:58 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 00:49:09 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

Thanks! One side of the bridge tab seems a lot easier to bend out than the
other but if I muck it up I've got another.

Am I correct in assuming with a tandem breaker if one circuit pops, the
other is shut off even though it's still OK? Does a tandem breaker show
which circuit had the fault?

I'm beginning to see some advantages in bringing out the Sawzall and all the
rest of the tools it takes to add a new outlet to very old plaster-lathe
construction. double frown

SH

That is one advantage of using 2 single pole breakers, handle tied. If
you have one tripping you can remove the handle tie to isolate
although in most designs it will be apparent.
As I said before it is recommended in a box with multiple circuits but
not required as long as you are not sharing the neutral.

I like the Square D breakers for that because of the red indicator window.(ヅ)ノ

[8~{} Uncle Square Monster

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 02:33:47 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, November 19, 2016 at 12:52:58 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 00:49:09 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

Thanks! One side of the bridge tab seems a lot easier to bend out than the
other but if I muck it up I've got another.

Am I correct in assuming with a tandem breaker if one circuit pops, the
other is shut off even though it's still OK? Does a tandem breaker show
which circuit had the fault?

I'm beginning to see some advantages in bringing out the Sawzall and all the
rest of the tools it takes to add a new outlet to very old plaster-lathe
construction. double frown

SH

That is one advantage of using 2 single pole breakers, handle tied. If
you have one tripping you can remove the handle tie to isolate
although in most designs it will be apparent.
As I said before it is recommended in a box with multiple circuits but
not required as long as you are not sharing the neutral.

I like the Square D breakers for that because of the red indicator window.(?)?

[8~{} Uncle Square Monster

The problem is, with a tandem, there is only one flag so if you are
feeding two 120v circuits, you will not know which one tripped the
breaker.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 02:33:47 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, November 19, 2016 at 12:52:58 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 00:49:09 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

Thanks! One side of the bridge tab seems a lot easier to bend out than the
other but if I muck it up I've got another.

Am I correct in assuming with a tandem breaker if one circuit pops, the
other is shut off even though it's still OK? Does a tandem breaker show
which circuit had the fault?

I'm beginning to see some advantages in bringing out the Sawzall and all the
rest of the tools it takes to add a new outlet to very old plaster-lathe
construction. double frown

SH

That is one advantage of using 2 single pole breakers, handle tied. If
you have one tripping you can remove the handle tie to isolate
although in most designs it will be apparent.
As I said before it is recommended in a box with multiple circuits but
not required as long as you are not sharing the neutral.

I like the Square D breakers for that because of the red indicator window.(?)?

[8~{} Uncle Square Monster
Square D QO all the way. My QO panel, complete with breakers cost
twice what a seimens or Homeline panel would have cost, but I won't
have to replace it again in my lifetime.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 10:22:49 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 02:33:47 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, November 19, 2016 at 12:52:58 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 00:49:09 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

Thanks! One side of the bridge tab seems a lot easier to bend out than the
other but if I muck it up I've got another.

Am I correct in assuming with a tandem breaker if one circuit pops, the
other is shut off even though it's still OK? Does a tandem breaker show
which circuit had the fault?

I'm beginning to see some advantages in bringing out the Sawzall and all the
rest of the tools it takes to add a new outlet to very old plaster-lathe
construction. double frown

SH

That is one advantage of using 2 single pole breakers, handle tied. If
you have one tripping you can remove the handle tie to isolate
although in most designs it will be apparent.
As I said before it is recommended in a box with multiple circuits but
not required as long as you are not sharing the neutral.

I like the Square D breakers for that because of the red indicator window.(?)?

[8~{} Uncle Square Monster

The problem is, with a tandem, there is only one flag so if you are
feeding two 120v circuits, you will not know which one tripped the
breaker.
If they are on one "spit" outlet it doesn't take long to figure it
out.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 11:52:25 -0500, wrote:


Square D QO all the way. My QO panel, complete with breakers cost
twice what a seimens or Homeline panel would have cost, but I won't
have to replace it again in my lifetime.

I am a QO guy too. A SqD rep gave me a box of 20a breakers 40 years
ago and that was the best investment SqD ever made. My addition got a
SqD panel just because I had those breakers and I have bought a ****
load of SqD stuff since in 3 more houses.
That was just about the only thing you ever saw in computer rooms
although they were QOM as often as not (bolt in). That was why I got
the breakers. He brought the wrong ones and I happened to be there
talking to him. I managed to find a way to work around the problem and
get him off the hook until he could get a box of QOM to them.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 12:05:53 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 10:22:49 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 02:33:47 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, November 19, 2016 at 12:52:58 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 00:49:09 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

Thanks! One side of the bridge tab seems a lot easier to bend out than the
other but if I muck it up I've got another.

Am I correct in assuming with a tandem breaker if one circuit pops, the
other is shut off even though it's still OK? Does a tandem breaker show
which circuit had the fault?

I'm beginning to see some advantages in bringing out the Sawzall and all the
rest of the tools it takes to add a new outlet to very old plaster-lathe
construction. double frown

SH

That is one advantage of using 2 single pole breakers, handle tied. If
you have one tripping you can remove the handle tie to isolate
although in most designs it will be apparent.
As I said before it is recommended in a box with multiple circuits but
not required as long as you are not sharing the neutral.

I like the Square D breakers for that because of the red indicator window.(?)?

[8~{} Uncle Square Monster

The problem is, with a tandem, there is only one flag so if you are
feeding two 120v circuits, you will not know which one tripped the
breaker.
If they are on one "spit" outlet it doesn't take long to figure it
out.

I didn't raise the issue, the OP did

On Saturday, November 19, 2016 at 9:23:09 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 02:33:47 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, November 19, 2016 at 12:52:58 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 00:49:09 -0500, "Sherlock.Homes"
wrote:

Thanks! One side of the bridge tab seems a lot easier to bend out than the
other but if I muck it up I've got another.

Am I correct in assuming with a tandem breaker if one circuit pops, the
other is shut off even though it's still OK? Does a tandem breaker show
which circuit had the fault?

I'm beginning to see some advantages in bringing out the Sawzall and all the
rest of the tools it takes to add a new outlet to very old plaster-lathe
construction. double frown

SH

That is one advantage of using 2 single pole breakers, handle tied. If
you have one tripping you can remove the handle tie to isolate
although in most designs it will be apparent.
As I said before it is recommended in a box with multiple circuits but
not required as long as you are not sharing the neutral.

I like the Square D breakers for that because of the red indicator window.(?)?

[8~{} Uncle Square Monster

The problem is, with a tandem, there is only one flag so if you are
feeding two 120v circuits, you will not know which one tripped the
breaker.

I'm sorry, I thought you were discussing the use of 2 single pole breakers with a handle tie. What I've seen is that one side will trip and tug the handle of the other breaker and not trip it. It's been a while but I can swear I've seen a 20 tied to a 15 and if one side trips, you must flip both handles all the way off to reset whichever side tripped. (-_-)ã‚žã‚›

https://www.grainger.com/product/SQU...ndle-Tie-5B734

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...HTCP/100345836

[8~{} Uncle Tandem Monster