Hello - I have spent several hours using Google and reading many
postings about my refrigerator dilemma that is in the subject line. I
have replaced the Defrost Timer and after letting it run for 4 days
while we were out of town the freezer reached 12 degrees. We opened the
door(s) a couple of times and now the freezer temp is staying at 17
degrees (for several hours during which time the doors have not been
opened). Refrigerator compartment is staying at 38 degrees. (Cold
Control is set at 4 in the Freezer and 2 in the Refrigerator.)
This all started when we had a flickering power outage a couple of weeks
ago. We noticed that Ice Cream was very soft in our 8 year old Amana
19.7 CF bottom freezer.
I am going to remove the wall in the freezer compartment and check the
Defrost Thermostat. The Defrost timer was defective per ohm meter test,
but replacing it did not solve the problem.

We used to hear popping and gurgling sounds when the refer operated. We
no longer hear these sounds. I am also, then going to check this area.
(Condenser, and Deepfreeze fan.)

If anyone has any thoughts or ideas I'd be glad to hear them.

TIA

wrote:
Hello - I have spent several hours using Google and reading many
postings about my refrigerator dilemma that is in the subject line. I
have replaced the Defrost Timer and after letting it run for 4 days
while we were out of town the freezer reached 12 degrees. We opened
the door(s) a couple of times and now the freezer temp is staying at
17 degrees (for several hours during which time the doors have not
been opened). Refrigerator compartment is staying at 38 degrees.
(Cold Control is set at 4 in the Freezer and 2 in the Refrigerator.)
This all started when we had a flickering power outage a couple of
weeks ago. We noticed that Ice Cream was very soft in our 8 year old
Amana
19.7 CF bottom freezer.
I am going to remove the wall in the freezer compartment and check the
Defrost Thermostat. The Defrost timer was defective per ohm meter
test, but replacing it did not solve the problem.

We used to hear popping and gurgling sounds when the refer operated.
We no longer hear these sounds. I am also, then going to check this
area. (Condenser, and Deepfreeze fan.)

If anyone has any thoughts or ideas I'd be glad to hear them.

TIA

Un load it, saving your food with neighbors and family, or just eat it.
Turn it off totally, take the opportunity to clean it all out. Leave it off
for a couple of days at least. Now turn it back on and give it a day or two
to get back to normal. Be sure to clean the coils while you are waiting as
well.

I am going to take a guess that when the first timer went out, the frost
built up to the point where it totally blocked the passages and now even
with the timer going on, the passages are not clearing. You also should
check to make sure the drain system is working.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

wrote in message ...

Hi,

Hello - I have spent several hours using Google and reading many
postings about my refrigerator dilemma that is in the subject line. I
have replaced the Defrost Timer and after letting it run for 4 days
while we were out of town the freezer reached 12 degrees. We opened the
door(s) a couple of times and now the freezer temp is staying at 17
degrees (for several hours during which time the doors have not been
opened). Refrigerator compartment is staying at 38 degrees. (Cold
Control is set at 4 in the Freezer and 2 in the Refrigerator.)
This all started when we had a flickering power outage a couple of weeks
ago. We noticed that Ice Cream was very soft in our 8 year old Amana
19.7 CF bottom freezer.

Model#??
http://www.applianceaid.com/model.html
Some model# helps.

I am going to remove the wall in the freezer compartment

Let us know what the cooling coils look like....all frosted over and
plugged up, 1/2 frosted 1/2 bare, ball of ice, nice even layer of
frost on all the coils, etc....

and check the
Defrost Thermostat. The Defrost timer was defective per ohm meter test,
but replacing it did not solve the problem.

An over night defrost with the doors open and then turn the
refrigerator back on in the am and if it starts to work ok then you
did have an ice/frost build up.

We used to hear popping and gurgling sounds when the refer operated. We
no longer hear these sounds. I am also, then going to check this area.
(Condenser, and Deepfreeze fan.)

Make sure the hot condensor coils are clean and not over covered with
dust, make sure the condensor fan motor is running/turninmg properly.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

Joseph Meehan wrote:
wrote:

Hello - I have spent several hours using Google and reading many
postings about my refrigerator dilemma that is in the subject line. I
have replaced the Defrost Timer and after letting it run for 4 days
while we were out of town the freezer reached 12 degrees. We opened
the door(s) a couple of times and now the freezer temp is staying at
17 degrees (for several hours during which time the doors have not
been opened). Refrigerator compartment is staying at 38 degrees.
(Cold Control is set at 4 in the Freezer and 2 in the Refrigerator.)
This all started when we had a flickering power outage a couple of
weeks ago. We noticed that Ice Cream was very soft in our 8 year old
Amana
19.7 CF bottom freezer.
I am going to remove the wall in the freezer compartment and check the
Defrost Thermostat. The Defrost timer was defective per ohm meter
test, but replacing it did not solve the problem.

We used to hear popping and gurgling sounds when the refer operated.
We no longer hear these sounds. I am also, then going to check this
area. (Condenser, and Deepfreeze fan.)

If anyone has any thoughts or ideas I'd be glad to hear them.

TIA


Un load it, saving your food with neighbors and family, or just eat it.
Turn it off totally, take the opportunity to clean it all out. Leave it off
for a couple of days at least. Now turn it back on and give it a day or two
to get back to normal. Be sure to clean the coils while you are waiting as
well.


It was off for three days and I cleaned the coils under the refer (lots
of dust/doghair). I just got into the condenser/coil area to remove the
defrost thermostat and the area was immaculately clean. There was no
frost at all after being on for four days.
I am replacing the defrost thermostat.

I am going to take a guess that when the first timer went out, the frost
built up to the point where it totally blocked the passages and now even
with the timer going on, the passages are not clearing. You also should
check to make sure the drain system is working.

I can't say for sure but there have been no signs of frost. Drain
system appears clear and clean.

Thanks for your help.

Hi Jeff, Thanks for responding.

jeff wrote:
wrote in message ...

Hi,


Hello - I have spent several hours using Google and reading many
postings about my refrigerator dilemma that is in the subject line. I
have replaced the Defrost Timer and after letting it run for 4 days
while we were out of town the freezer reached 12 degrees. We opened the
door(s) a couple of times and now the freezer temp is staying at 17
degrees (for several hours during which time the doors have not been
opened). Refrigerator compartment is staying at 38 degrees. (Cold
Control is set at 4 in the Freezer and 2 in the Refrigerator.)
This all started when we had a flickering power outage a couple of weeks
ago. We noticed that Ice Cream was very soft in our 8 year old Amana
19.7 CF bottom freezer.


Model#??
http://www.applianceaid.com/model.html
Some model# helps.

Amana BX22S5W



I am going to remove the wall in the freezer compartment


Let us know what the cooling coils look like....all frosted over and
plugged up, 1/2 frosted 1/2 bare, ball of ice, nice even layer of
frost on all the coils, etc....


There was no frost at all after being on for four straight days. I am
replacing the Defrost thermostat.


and check the
Defrost Thermostat. The Defrost timer was defective per ohm meter test,
but replacing it did not solve the problem.


An over night defrost with the doors open and then turn the
refrigerator back on in the am and if it starts to work ok then you
did have an ice/frost build up.



The Refer was off for three days while we got parts and cleaned the
refer top to bottom (The bottom coil area [not condenser/coil] was very
dirty with dust/doghair - we clean it every 4 - 6 months) After new
Defrost timer was installed refer still was not running correctly. (As
stated in original post the old Defrost timer was dead.)

We used to hear popping and gurgling sounds when the refer operated. We
no longer hear these sounds. I am also, then going to check this area.
(Condenser, and Deepfreeze fan.)


Make sure the hot condensor coils are clean and not over covered with
dust, make sure the condensor fan motor is running/turninmg properly.


Both conditions are excellent. There are two fans and they both run
fine. It almost seems (to me) as though the Defrost heater elements are
on all the time. (I could be wrong.) When I just opened it up to check
the Condenser area it was immaculately clean with zero frost. It had
been on for more than four days and running continuously (I think). I
know it had run continuously for the last 16 hours except when the
Defrost timer would kick it off for about 20 minutes every 7-8 hours.
I've ordered a new Defrost Thermostat and tomorrow I will install it.
Fingers crossed.

P.S. You said "hot" condenser coils. Are these the coils under the
refer? It was very dusty there, as I stated earlier in this posting.

Thanks again for your help.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

Thanks for writing, Dan.
Here is what is happening:

Dan O. wrote:
wrote

Amana BX22S5W

There was no frost at all after being on for
four straight days.


Than I don't see how it is cooling at all unless you just happened to
check it right after a defrost cycle. After running for an hour or
more, there should be some evidence of frost on the evaporator. You
can read how a frost free refrigerator's defrost system is suppose to
work at the following link:


It is cooling and the freezer stayed at 17 - 18 degrees last night.
This morning I removed the panel in the freezer to get to the Defrost
Thermostat. This was done about 1/2 way through the defrost cycle. And
the Refer had sat for about 1/2 an hour unplugged before I got to it.

I'm sure you are right but I need to try this one variable. It is not
expensive. I had been reading the link you gave for about a week now.
Here is one quote:
Many newer model fridges (Amana, Frigidaire) and some older models (GE) run power for the evaporator (freezer) fan motor through the defrost heater and defrost limit switch. If either of those components should fail, the fan will stop circulating cold air through the refrigerator.

From the sequence of events at the beginning of the link you provided
(and I am well familiar with - for a week now. ) I see that the
defrost timer triggers several events.

Could the Cold Control in the freezer be the problem?

http://ng.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=658


I am replacing the Defrost thermostat.


That isn't going to help, if it were defective it would cause *excess*
frosting on the evaporator (cooling) coil not less.

We'll find out. If you have any other thoughts, I'd be happy to hear
them. The details of my refrigerators problems are pretty complete.
I don't think it lost coolant suddenly but eventually I'll probably find
out what it is.

Can the Defrost Heater ever can made to stay on?

I am getting cooling and no frost build up that I have seen. I will run
it without the panel and see what occurs tomorrow.

Thanks again.


Dan O.
-
Appliance411.com
http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Amana+fridge

=Ð~~~~~~

wrote in message ...
Hi Jeff, Thanks for responding.
Amana BX22S5W

There was no frost at all after being on for four straight days. I am
replacing the Defrost thermostat.

A bad defrost timer -usually- will have the coils completly covered
with frost rather than bare of frost, a defrost timer stuck in defrost
will stop everything ( fans, compressor ) from running. A defrost
timer not going int odefrost woudl allow the cooling coils ot buiuld
up with frost and completewly frost over. Possible chance you opened
it up right after a defrosting cycle???? With the cover off let the
refrigerator run 30-60 minutes and check the cooiling coils, if still
bare or mostly bare this may indicate a refrigeration system problem.

and check the
Defrost Thermostat. The Defrost timer was defective per ohm meter test,
but replacing it did not solve the problem.


An over night defrost with the doors open and then turn the
refrigerator back on in the am and if it starts to work ok then you
did have an ice/frost build up.



The Refer was off for three days while we got parts and cleaned the
refer top to bottom (The bottom coil area [not condenser/coil] was very
dirty with dust/doghair - we clean it every 4 - 6 months) After new
Defrost timer was installed refer still was not running correctly. (As
stated in original post the old Defrost timer was dead.)

We used to hear popping and gurgling sounds when the refer operated. We
no longer hear these sounds. I am also, then going to check this area.
(Condenser, and Deepfreeze fan.)


Make sure the hot condensor coils are clean and not over covered with
dust, make sure the condensor fan motor is running/turninmg properly.


Both conditions are excellent. There are two fans and they both run
fine. It almost seems (to me) as though the Defrost heater elements are
on all the time. (I could be wrong.) When I just opened it up to check
the Condenser area it was immaculately clean with zero frost. It had
been on for more than four days and running continuously (I think). I
know it had run continuously for the last 16 hours except when the
Defrost timer would kick it off for about 20 minutes every 7-8 hours.
I've ordered a new Defrost Thermostat and tomorrow I will install it.
Fingers crossed.

P.S. You said "hot" condenser coils. Are these the coils under the
refer? It was very dusty there, as I stated earlier in this posting.

Yes, under the refrigerator.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

jeff wrote:
wrote in message ...

Hi Jeff, Thanks for responding.
Amana BX22S5W


There was no frost at all after being on for four straight days. I am
replacing the Defrost thermostat.


A bad defrost timer -usually- will have the coils completly covered
with frost rather than bare of frost, a defrost timer stuck in defrost
will stop everything ( fans, compressor ) from running. A defrost
timer not going int odefrost woudl allow the cooling coils ot buiuld
up with frost and completewly frost over. Possible chance you opened
it up right after a defrosting cycle???? With the cover off let the
refrigerator run 30-60 minutes and check the cooiling coils, if still
bare or mostly bare this may indicate a refrigeration system problem.


I had opened up the condenser area in the refer after a Defrost cycle
had almost ended. It also sat unplugged for half an hour before I
worked on it. So there might have been frost buildup. I did test the
condenser area later to see if it would get cold enough. I wanted to
see if the tubes on the condenser felt cold. I was concerned that they
didn't seem to be "freezing" to the touch. I left the unit running with
the door closed. When I checked after about 30 minutes there was frost
on the top right end of the fins about 4 inches in size and growing it
seemed.
Perhaps I was getting frost buildup between the fins and not completely
removing it with the defrost cycle. However, I am still concerned that
the freezer while running undisturbed never could achieve a temperature
below 12 degrees.
I know very little about refrigeration. I try logic but I am guessing.

These are the sites I've been reading:
http://www.applianceaid.com/frig_notcold.html
http://ng.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=658
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appli...frigerator.php

I'll install a new Defrost thermostat tomorrow. It may be unnecessary
but it doesn't cost much ($12).

Thanks for your input.

wrote in message ...

Hi,

I had opened up the condenser area in the refer after a Defrost cycle
had almost ended.

Evaporator is inside the freezer, cold coils.
Condensor is under the refrigerator, hot coils.

It also sat unplugged for half an hour before I
worked on it. So there might have been frost buildup. I did test the
condenser area later to see if it would get cold enough. I wanted to
see if the tubes on the condenser felt cold. I was concerned that they
didn't seem to be "freezing" to the touch. I left the unit running with
the door closed. When I checked after about 30 minutes there was frost
on the top right end of the fins about 4 inches in size and growing it
seemed.

When working properly, that frost should cover all the
cooling/evaporator coils with a thin layer of frost after running an
hour or two.

Perhaps I was getting frost buildup between the fins and not completely
removing it with the defrost cycle. However, I am still concerned that
the freezer while running undisturbed never could achieve a temperature
below 12 degrees.

http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_4_3.asp
Some "how a refrigerator works" help.

I'll install a new Defrost thermostat tomorrow. It may be unnecessary
but it doesn't cost much ($12).

Let us know what happens afterwards.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

Let us know what happens afterwards.


Thanks for the info and the website, Jeff. It helped me understand a
little more. (helped my vocabulary too, I hope)

My refer is still not working correctly. I have given the specifics
before but basically it is not getting cold enough in the freezer. It
was getting down to 12 and then 17 and for the past two days 26 (!).

We had a "flickering" power outage about a month ago after which the
freezer seemed to be unable to get real cold. I have replaced the
Defrost Thermostat and the Defrost timer. (The old timer was defective
but the original thermostat tested fine.)
Today I also turned the little screw inside the Cold Control knob area
toward the "colder" position.

One thing I noticed (after you said to look for it, Jeff) was that frost
buildup on the evaporater was not very extensive after being on a couple
of hours. Also, the coils underneath the refer are never warm nor is
the exhausted air that comes out of the back.
I did have the refrigerator pretty close to the wall (2" or so)and we
had quite a lot of Dog hair/dust come out of the coils when I cleaned it
a few days ago. I usually clean it every six months but I never used a
tool to remove the accumulation deep inside the coils before. I always
got what I could see to get by hand and by using a crevice tool with a
vacuum cleaner.

This bottom freezer, 22cf, 8 year old Amana has been a good appliance up
to now. I hate to replace it but if the repairs are going to be more
than $250 or so I probably will.
Does anyone have any idea of what the cost of a new compressor and
installation might be? Or what other problems there could be? (coolant
loss is unlikely from what I read)

Thanks for your time and help.

Mike

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

wrote in message ...

Hi,

One thing I noticed (after you said to look for it, Jeff) was that frost
buildup on the evaporater was not very extensive after being on a couple
of hours. Also, the coils underneath the refer are never warm nor is
the exhausted air that comes out of the back.

Kinda sounding more and more like a refrigeration system
problem....leaker, inefficient compressor.

I did have the refrigerator pretty close to the wall (2" or so)and we
had quite a lot of Dog hair/dust come out of the coils when I cleaned it
a few days ago. I usually clean it every six months but I never used a
tool to remove the accumulation deep inside the coils before. I always
got what I could see to get by hand and by using a crevice tool with a
vacuum cleaner.
This bottom freezer, 22cf, 8 year old Amana has been a good appliance up
to now. I hate to replace it but if the repairs are going to be more
than $250 or so I probably will.

Does anyone have any idea of what the cost of a new compressor and
installation might be?

Average cost to replace a compressor is approx $350-450.00

Or what other problems there could be? (coolant
loss is unlikely from what I read)

System problems can vary from a restriction, not 100% pumping
compressor to a leak in the system.
All can be expensive to repair!

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/