I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine, as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the temperature in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and it ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing on the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

Hi,
Any poor electrical connections around your thermostat between it and
furnace? Furnace has safety shut down sensor(when it gets TOO hot).
maybe this thing is acting up?
I never saw this sensor gone bad tho.
Tony

Frontier wrote:

I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine, as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the temperature in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and it ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing on the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

Frontier wrote:

I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

SNIP

It could be because there is not adequate gas supply.
It's not uncommon for gas service lines to freeze up
in very cold weather due to condensate in the lines.
If so, this is a utility problem. In any event,
I think I would begin with a call to them; they are
often very helpful.

Jim

"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

Thinks? No..its telling the unit to keep running. The stat only knows on,
and off..thats ALL it knows.



We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

Wait...you mean you were told you had a problem, left it, told what was
wrong and now you want answers from people that HAVENT seen it?


The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine, as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the temperature in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and
back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Again....you were told what was wrong and now you want answers?

Ok..
Is it a SV series valve?
If so, its shot, and thats a simple reply...if not...its screaming high
limit...but....you have not anywhere CLOSE to enough information to even
guess at the problem.
You want to guess how many different gas valves there have been used over
the last 40 years? How about overlimit designs?




Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and it
ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing on
the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

Call someone that can check it out, SEE what you have, verify and dupicate
the problem, and isolate the problem.
We cant do that over the net.

Sorry, I don't think I was clear about the fact that they DID replace the
valve right after thanksgiving so, unless there was a defect in that valve,
that isn't the problem.

The plan is to call the repair people back on Monday. I was just looking
for some sort of opinions before they tried to lead me down a bad path.


"CBhvac" stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehva c.com wrote in
message ...

"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before
reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

Thinks? No..its telling the unit to keep running. The stat only knows on,
and off..thats ALL it knows.



We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the
furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

Wait...you mean you were told you had a problem, left it, told what was
wrong and now you want answers from people that HAVENT seen it?


The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine, as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the temperature
in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and
back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Again....you were told what was wrong and now you want answers?

Ok..
Is it a SV series valve?
If so, its shot, and thats a simple reply...if not...its screaming high
limit...but....you have not anywhere CLOSE to enough information to even
guess at the problem.
You want to guess how many different gas valves there have been used over
the last 40 years? How about overlimit designs?




Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and it
ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing on
the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

Call someone that can check it out, SEE what you have, verify and dupicate
the problem, and isolate the problem.
We cant do that over the net.

To be clear, they did replace the valve back in late-November.

That is interesting about the condensation in the line. Could it also be
the fact that we have a gas fireplace? Could the fireplace be pulling
enough supply away to "shut down" adequate supply to the furnace?

Thanks for the help.

Roger


"Speedy Jim" wrote in message ...
Frontier wrote:

I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before
reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the
furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

SNIP

It could be because there is not adequate gas supply.
It's not uncommon for gas service lines to freeze up
in very cold weather due to condensate in the lines.
If so, this is a utility problem. In any event,
I think I would begin with a call to them; they are
often very helpful.

Jim

Frontier wrote:

To be clear, they did replace the valve back in late-November.

That is interesting about the condensation in the line. Could it also be
the fact that we have a gas fireplace? Could the fireplace be pulling
enough supply away to "shut down" adequate supply to the furnace?

Thanks for the help.

Roger

If the lines were sized properly to begin with, the fireplace
should have no effect. And the cold weather shouldn't be a
cause either. Start with a call to the gas co.
Jim


"Speedy Jim" wrote in message ...
Frontier wrote:

I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before
reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the
furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

SNIP

It could be because there is not adequate gas supply.
It's not uncommon for gas service lines to freeze up
in very cold weather due to condensate in the lines.
If so, this is a utility problem. In any event,
I think I would begin with a call to them; they are
often very helpful.

Jim

The question here is whether the furnace is hot when it shuts off (blower
problem) or if it blows till it's cool (so the limit switch is OK, but the
burners are not staying on). Or maybe nothing stays on (thermostat or low
voltage problem).

We really don't have enough information to be sure, at this point.

When it's cold in the house adn calling for heat, is the T-stat sending the
call for heat to the furnace? Is the furnace / heat exchanger hot? Is it
cycling on high limit switch? Are the burners turning off? Does the air
coming out of the registers feel like it's blowing the usual ammount?

--

Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine, as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the temperature in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and it ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing on the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

"Frontier" wrote in message
...
To be clear, they did replace the valve back in late-November.

That is interesting about the condensation in the line. Could it also be
the fact that we have a gas fireplace? Could the fireplace be pulling
enough supply away to "shut down" adequate supply to the furnace?

Oh my...this is classic.
Just had a case similar.....seriously..no bull and if you are in the NC
area, I could even tell you where it was....

Got a call at 2am of no heat about 3 weeks ago...went out and checked for
the obvious. It was on a unit we installed about 2 years ago. Get there and
its in lockout. Reset it, and test for gas pressure and its fine. Check all
the obvious, like open limits, too high a flow, no inducer, water in the
inducer, clogged vac lines...nothing.
Its heating, and cycling like normal.
Get a call a day later..no heat.
I get there, its running perfect.
About an hour later...no heat.....and of course, when I stop what I am
doing, drive 30 miles, and check it, its running perfect.
I notice something...a new gas line t'ed off the main yardline...(its got
LPG) and I ask about it....its to a set of gas logs. Ok.....the logs?
Oh...they are off...we only use them when the heat is out...oooohkay...
I check for gas pressure, its there...but not real high...I check the
SmartValve..its testing normal, but no fire.. Check for pressure at the
valve...not at all there. Check my regulator..its ok...check the LPG
tank..its at 50%..well ok to run a set of gas logs, and a furnace....
Turn the logs off, since hes got them burning and the furnace fires....well
DUH! Did a gas line diametric real fast, and found out his logs had a couple
of issues....one, the gas line ran to them was too large...and the yardline
to the T was too small for both the furnace and the logs. The primary
regulator on the LPG tank was also bad, and when the pressure would have a
sudden drop (like when the furnace fired, or, he ran the gas logs with the
furnace running) it would not allow for the proper pressure to be
maintained, and one, or the other would go out. Wefoundout about the
regulator after he had the gas company come run a new yardline and they
could not get it to run either with the larger line...altho, now, after the
regulator and line was replace, hes warm.



Thanks for the help.

Roger


"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
...
Frontier wrote:

I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat
will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before
reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the
furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed
to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

SNIP

It could be because there is not adequate gas supply.
It's not uncommon for gas service lines to freeze up
in very cold weather due to condensate in the lines.
If so, this is a utility problem. In any event,
I think I would begin with a call to them; they are
often very helpful.

Jim

I'll answer these to the best of my ability.

When it's cold in the house adn calling for heat, is the T-stat sending the
call for heat to the furnace? Yes, I believe it is. The "Heat" indicator
will come on on the thermostat, the furnace will fire up and the fan will
start.

Is the furnace / heat exchanger hot? If you mean are we getting heat from
the vents, yes. We get heat from the vents for five to ten minutes.

Is it cycling on high limit switch? Again, I'm not sure if I'm replying
correctly. The furnace shuts off before it gets anywhere near the
temperature we have set on the thermostat (i.e., shuts off at 67 when it is
set at 71). Plus, the thermostat continues to indicate that the heat is on
even though it is not.

Are the burners turning off? I believe they are.

Does the air
coming out of the registers feel like it's blowing the usual ammount?
Interestingly, when we are actually getting heat, it seems like it might be
slightly less powerful than in the past. Once the heat stops the blower
also stops.

Thanks for the help.

Roger


"Stormin Mormonn" wrote in message
...
The question here is whether the furnace is hot when it shuts off (blower
problem) or if it blows till it's cool (so the limit switch is OK, but the
burners are not staying on). Or maybe nothing stays on (thermostat or low
voltage problem).

We really don't have enough information to be sure, at this point.

When it's cold in the house adn calling for heat, is the T-stat sending
the
call for heat to the furnace? Is the furnace / heat exchanger hot? Is it
cycling on high limit switch? Are the burners turning off? Does the air
coming out of the registers feel like it's blowing the usual ammount?

--

Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine, as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the temperature in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and
back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and it
ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing on
the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

Please understand, that Chris Young, has no formal or legal training in the
field, and 99% of his advice has been wrong, or dangerous.


"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I'll answer these to the best of my ability.

When it's cold in the house adn calling for heat, is the T-stat sending
the
call for heat to the furnace? Yes, I believe it is. The "Heat"
indicator
will come on on the thermostat, the furnace will fire up and the fan will
start.

Is the furnace / heat exchanger hot? If you mean are we getting heat from
the vents, yes. We get heat from the vents for five to ten minutes.

Is it cycling on high limit switch? Again, I'm not sure if I'm replying
correctly. The furnace shuts off before it gets anywhere near the
temperature we have set on the thermostat (i.e., shuts off at 67 when it
is
set at 71). Plus, the thermostat continues to indicate that the heat is
on
even though it is not.

Are the burners turning off? I believe they are.

Does the air
coming out of the registers feel like it's blowing the usual ammount?
Interestingly, when we are actually getting heat, it seems like it might
be
slightly less powerful than in the past. Once the heat stops the blower
also stops.

Thanks for the help.

Roger


"Stormin Mormonn" wrote in message
...
The question here is whether the furnace is hot when it shuts off
(blower
problem) or if it blows till it's cool (so the limit switch is OK, but
the
burners are not staying on). Or maybe nothing stays on (thermostat or
low
voltage problem).

We really don't have enough information to be sure, at this point.

When it's cold in the house adn calling for heat, is the T-stat sending
the
call for heat to the furnace? Is the furnace / heat exchanger hot? Is it
cycling on high limit switch? Are the burners turning off? Does the air
coming out of the registers feel like it's blowing the usual ammount?

--

Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before
reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the
furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine, as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the temperature
in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and
back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and it
ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing on
the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

"Stormin Mormonn" wrote in message
...
The question here is whether the furnace is hot when it shuts off (blower
problem) or if it blows till it's cool (so the limit switch is OK, but the
burners are not staying on). Or maybe nothing stays on (thermostat or low
voltage problem).

Idiot.
No..the question is, what in hell is wrong with the picture that no one can
see.


We really don't have enough information to be sure, at this point.

You never did.
You do not understand how to go about checking the unit properly, otherwise,
you would know that its only a couple of things..


When it's cold in the house adn calling for heat, is the T-stat sending
the
call for heat to the furnace?

He said it was...

Is the furnace / heat exchanger hot?

It does not matter.

Is it
cycling on high limit switch?

Umm...if it was, thats part of the problem, but prob not the CAUSE.

Are the burners turning off?

All I can say..is DUH!

Does the air
coming out of the registers feel like it's blowing the usual ammount?

Ah...now you hit on something...explain dear hack, how this will
matter...and FORGET the blower motor..since in your own words, you like
selling customers parts they dont need but you have on the back of the
Pinto....

Also, explain what might cause a reduced airflow OTHER than a blower motor,
or anything related to the blower motor....think hard..


--

Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine, as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the temperature in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and
back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and it
ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing on
the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

Sure would be nice for me to be there, and watch it doing its job.

First thing I was thinking was heat anticpator. Thermostats turn off the
heat at the furnace a little early, to give the furnace a chance to blow the
heat out of the furnace. Otherwise it would get to 71, and there would be a
lot of heat left in the furnace. But not 4 degrees worth.

The question about "cycling on fan limit" asks if the furnace is hot when
the blower turns off. It should run the blower till the furnace cools down.

Sounds like it's time to call a heating guy. From your answers, we're not
speaking the same language here.

--

Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I'll answer these to the best of my ability.

When it's cold in the house adn calling for heat, is the T-stat sending the
call for heat to the furnace? Yes, I believe it is. The "Heat" indicator
will come on on the thermostat, the furnace will fire up and the fan will
start.

Is the furnace / heat exchanger hot? If you mean are we getting heat from
the vents, yes. We get heat from the vents for five to ten minutes.

Is it cycling on high limit switch? Again, I'm not sure if I'm replying
correctly. The furnace shuts off before it gets anywhere near the
temperature we have set on the thermostat (i.e., shuts off at 67 when it is
set at 71). Plus, the thermostat continues to indicate that the heat is on
even though it is not.

Are the burners turning off? I believe they are.

Does the air
coming out of the registers feel like it's blowing the usual ammount?
Interestingly, when we are actually getting heat, it seems like it might be
slightly less powerful than in the past. Once the heat stops the blower
also stops.

Thanks for the help.

Roger


"Stormin Mormonn" wrote in message
...
The question here is whether the furnace is hot when it shuts off (blower
problem) or if it blows till it's cool (so the limit switch is OK, but the
burners are not staying on). Or maybe nothing stays on (thermostat or low
voltage problem).

We really don't have enough information to be sure, at this point.

When it's cold in the house adn calling for heat, is the T-stat sending
the
call for heat to the furnace? Is the furnace / heat exchanger hot? Is it
cycling on high limit switch? Are the burners turning off? Does the air
coming out of the registers feel like it's blowing the usual ammount?

--

Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine, as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the temperature in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and
back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and it
ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing on
the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

"Thund3rstruck" wrote in message
...
CBhvac Spilled my beer when they jumped on the table and proclaimed
in :
Also, explain what might cause a reduced airflow OTHER than a blower
motor, or anything related to the blower motor....think hard..

While I'm not Stormin, or an HVAC guy, I know from basic physics
that the system is restrictive somewhere. Most likely cause is the
filter. G

Ac evap coil dirty??????


NOI

He said he just changed the filter. I did ask about airflow, and he said it
felt good.

I'm thinking cycling on fan limit.

--

Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Thund3rstruck" wrote in message
...

Also, explain what might cause a reduced airflow OTHER than a blower
motor, or anything related to the blower motor....think hard..

While I'm not Stormin, or an HVAC guy, I know from basic physics
that the system is restrictive somewhere. Most likely cause is the
filter. G

NOI

"Stormin Mormonn" wrote in message
...
He said he just changed the filter. I did ask about airflow, and he said
it
felt good.

I'm thinking cycling on fan limit.

Wait....you are thinking anticipator in another post...

How about you leave the HVAC work to someone that knows what in hell he is
doing?
n

--

Christopher A. Young
Roman Catholic Church : The Reason for the Season


"Thund3rstruck" wrote in message
...

Also, explain what might cause a reduced airflow OTHER than a blower
motor, or anything related to the blower motor....think hard..

While I'm not Stormin, or an HVAC guy, I know from basic physics
that the system is restrictive somewhere. Most likely cause is the
filter. G

NOI

"Stormin Mormonn" wrote in message
...
Sure would be nice for me to be there, and watch it doing its job.

You might learn something.



First thing I was thinking was heat anticpator. Thermostats turn off the
heat at the furnace a little early, to give the furnace a chance to blow
the
heat out of the furnace. Otherwise it would get to 71, and there would be
a
lot of heat left in the furnace. But not 4 degrees worth.

Umm.....wanna bet?



The question about "cycling on fan limit" asks if the furnace is hot when
the blower turns off. It should run the blower till the furnace cools
down.

So..it it the upper limit? The blower door limit? The burner limit? What
limit?
Speak Chris....we are all waiting..


Sounds like it's time to call a heating guy. From your answers, we're not
speaking the same language here.

I AM a heating and air guy, and trust me....no one understands you.



--

Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I'll answer these to the best of my ability.

When it's cold in the house adn calling for heat, is the T-stat sending
the
call for heat to the furnace? Yes, I believe it is. The "Heat"
indicator
will come on on the thermostat, the furnace will fire up and the fan will
start.

Is the furnace / heat exchanger hot? If you mean are we getting heat from
the vents, yes. We get heat from the vents for five to ten minutes.

Is it cycling on high limit switch? Again, I'm not sure if I'm replying
correctly. The furnace shuts off before it gets anywhere near the
temperature we have set on the thermostat (i.e., shuts off at 67 when it
is
set at 71). Plus, the thermostat continues to indicate that the heat is
on
even though it is not.

Are the burners turning off? I believe they are.

Does the air
coming out of the registers feel like it's blowing the usual ammount?
Interestingly, when we are actually getting heat, it seems like it might
be
slightly less powerful than in the past. Once the heat stops the blower
also stops.

Thanks for the help.

Roger


"Stormin Mormonn" wrote in message
...
The question here is whether the furnace is hot when it shuts off
(blower
problem) or if it blows till it's cool (so the limit switch is OK, but
the
burners are not staying on). Or maybe nothing stays on (thermostat or
low
voltage problem).

We really don't have enough information to be sure, at this point.

When it's cold in the house adn calling for heat, is the T-stat sending
the
call for heat to the furnace? Is the furnace / heat exchanger hot? Is it
cycling on high limit switch? Are the burners turning off? Does the air
coming out of the registers feel like it's blowing the usual ammount?

--

Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before
reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the
furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine, as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the temperature
in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and
back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and it
ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing on
the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

Wow, this gets better all the time. Why don't you tell us this kind of thing
in the beginning?

I know, you're just enjoying dragging it on. Well, you realize you'll
continue to freeze until you call someone to fix the thing.

--

Christopher A. Young
Join Alt-Hvac Moderated
A free, easy to use Yahoo! group



"Frontier" wrote in message
...
To be clear, they did replace the valve back in late-November.

That is interesting about the condensation in the line. Could it also be
the fact that we have a gas fireplace? Could the fireplace be pulling
enough supply away to "shut down" adequate supply to the furnace?

Thanks for the help.

Roger


"Speedy Jim" wrote in message ...
Frontier wrote:

I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before
reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the
furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

SNIP

It could be because there is not adequate gas supply.
It's not uncommon for gas service lines to freeze up
in very cold weather due to condensate in the lines.
If so, this is a utility problem. In any event,
I think I would begin with a call to them; they are
often very helpful.

Jim

Because, as a layman who doesn't know a lot about heaters, I gave the
information I thought was pertinent. When someone brought up the problem
with a gas line, it dawned on me that the fireplace might be a contributing
factor.

Your comment about me trying to draw it out was just a bit out-of-line. No,
I'm not trying to draw it out...just provide information to those who have
chosen to be considerate and provide useful answers or additional questions.


"alt-hvac Moderated" wrote in message
...
Wow, this gets better all the time. Why don't you tell us this kind of
thing
in the beginning?

I know, you're just enjoying dragging it on. Well, you realize you'll
continue to freeze until you call someone to fix the thing.

--

Christopher A. Young
Join Alt-Hvac Moderated
A free, easy to use Yahoo! group



"Frontier" wrote in message
...
To be clear, they did replace the valve back in late-November.

That is interesting about the condensation in the line. Could it also be
the fact that we have a gas fireplace? Could the fireplace be pulling
enough supply away to "shut down" adequate supply to the furnace?

Thanks for the help.

Roger


"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
...
Frontier wrote:

I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat
will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before
reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the
furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed
to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

SNIP

It could be because there is not adequate gas supply.
It's not uncommon for gas service lines to freeze up
in very cold weather due to condensate in the lines.
If so, this is a utility problem. In any event,
I think I would begin with a call to them; they are
often very helpful.

Jim

"Frontier" wrote in message
...
Because, as a layman who doesn't know a lot about heaters, I gave the
information I thought was pertinent. When someone brought up the problem
with a gas line, it dawned on me that the fireplace might be a
contributing
factor.

Your comment about me trying to draw it out was just a bit out-of-line.
No,
I'm not trying to draw it out...just provide information to those who have
chosen to be considerate and provide useful answers or additional
questions.


You have to forgive Chris...he tries to be an ass once in a while, while I
am that way all the time..
He has not figured out how to be point blank, and not pull punches while
discussing things about equipment he is clueless about. Hes nothing but a
hack of all trades, currently fancies himself as a heat and air guy, but
yet, on his new group..(lol) over in Yahoo, hes talking about locksmithing,
and other things that have no bearing on HVAC.



"alt-hvac Moderated" wrote in message
...
Wow, this gets better all the time. Why don't you tell us this kind of
thing
in the beginning?

I know, you're just enjoying dragging it on. Well, you realize you'll
continue to freeze until you call someone to fix the thing.

--

Christopher A. Young
Join Alt-Hvac Moderated
A free, easy to use Yahoo! group



"Frontier" wrote in message
...
To be clear, they did replace the valve back in late-November.

That is interesting about the condensation in the line. Could it also
be
the fact that we have a gas fireplace? Could the fireplace be pulling
enough supply away to "shut down" adequate supply to the furnace?

Thanks for the help.

Roger


"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
...
Frontier wrote:

I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat
will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before
reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve
was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the
furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it
seemed
to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is
happening
again.

SNIP

It could be because there is not adequate gas supply.
It's not uncommon for gas service lines to freeze up
in very cold weather due to condensate in the lines.
If so, this is a utility problem. In any event,
I think I would begin with a call to them; they are
often very helpful.

Jim

Chris doesnt remember you had someone out and they replaced the gas
valve , He is just upset he didnt figure out the gas line first and
tries to shift blame, remember he is a locksmith by trade or is that a
plumber

Well, the repair people came out today and found a number of cracks in the
heat exchange. What was happinging was that one of the cracks was right by
the overheat switch/sensor and the heat escaping kept tripping it.

Thanks to all those who added comments.


"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine, as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the temperature in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and
back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and it
ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing on
the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

Hi StoneD, hope you are having a nice day

On 22-Dec-03 At About 08:05:09, StoneD wrote to All
Subject: Heat Keeps Shutting Off - Resolution

S From: StoneD

S Warning. If they shutdown and locked the system when they found the
S cracks in the heat exchanger, then you are dealing with pure crooks.
S It is all a ruse to make you buy a new system from them.

Not quite since this is what is required by law.


S Now, if they ran the system and checked the heated rooms with a
S carbon monoxide detector and it checked over the allowable limit,
S then gave you some options on repairs, that is another story.

This is not a test of a heat exchanger. there is a smoke test, a visual test,
and a water test. a cracked heat exchanger does not necessarily mean you are
getting CO in the house at that moment.

-= HvacTech2 =-


... REALITY.SYS - Read Error - Solar System halted.

___ TagDude 0.92á+[DM]
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++
spam protection measure, Please remove the 33 to send e-mail

"Frontier" wrote in message
...
Well, the repair people came out today and found a number of cracks in the
heat exchange. What was happinging was that one of the cracks was right
by
the overheat switch/sensor and the heat escaping kept tripping it.

Thanks to all those who added comments.


Ok..good...now, before you go spend a ton, I have to ask....

Did they run a CO test to determine to look for a cracked heat exchanger, or
did they just test a couple of things and declare it bad?
When they found them, the cracks, did they SHOW them to you?

How old is the unit? Many units have either a lifetime warranty, or a 20
year warranty on the HE...if the HE is under warranty, they will still
charge you labor, but not for the part....if the part is no longer made, or
able to be had, the company that made the unit is responsible for some
reduction in cost on a new unit.

IF the company that found the cracks went into full blown sales mode after
this, start shopping. IF they really found leaks, legally, they are
responsible for shutting and locking the gas flow to the unit till someone,
even if its not them, replaces the unit.



"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before
reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the
furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine, as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the temperature
in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and
back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and it
ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing on
the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

Warning.
If they shutdown and locked the system when they found the cracks in
the heat exchanger, then you are dealing with pure crooks. It is all
a ruse to make you buy a new system from them.

Never, never, never call them back and tell everyone you know to
never use that company of crooks again.

Now, if they ran the system and checked the heated rooms with a
carbon monoxide detector and it checked over the allowable limit, then
gave you some options on repairs, that is another story.

Stone











On Mon, 22 Dec 2003 21:59:41 GMT, "Frontier"
wrote:

Well, the repair people came out today and found a number of cracks in the
heat exchange. What was happinging was that one of the cracks was right by
the overheat switch/sensor and the heat escaping kept tripping it.

Thanks to all those who added comments.


"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine, as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the temperature in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and
back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and it
ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing on
the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

He mentioned we could go for the new heat exchange or a new furnace. The
current one is 12 years old and I think we can get just a bit more out of
it, so we went with the Heat Exchanger. There was no sales pitch at all, he
offered, I directed, and he said fine.

They were covered under warranty. I only paid labor.

He called me down specifically to look at the pieces he removed to show me
the cracks and he filled out some paperwork with a header of the Air
Conditioning Institute or some such thing that showed where the cracks were.

I feel I was well treated by them.

Thanks again for all the help.


"CBhvac" stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehva c.com wrote in
message ...

"Frontier" wrote in message
...
Well, the repair people came out today and found a number of cracks in
the
heat exchange. What was happinging was that one of the cracks was right
by
the overheat switch/sensor and the heat escaping kept tripping it.

Thanks to all those who added comments.


Ok..good...now, before you go spend a ton, I have to ask....

Did they run a CO test to determine to look for a cracked heat exchanger,
or
did they just test a couple of things and declare it bad?
When they found them, the cracks, did they SHOW them to you?

How old is the unit? Many units have either a lifetime warranty, or a 20
year warranty on the HE...if the HE is under warranty, they will still
charge you labor, but not for the part....if the part is no longer made,
or
able to be had, the company that made the unit is responsible for some
reduction in cost on a new unit.

IF the company that found the cracks went into full blown sales mode after
this, start shopping. IF they really found leaks, legally, they are
responsible for shutting and locking the gas flow to the unit till
someone,
even if its not them, replaces the unit.



"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat
will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before
reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the
furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed
to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine,
as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the
temperature
in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and
back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and
it
ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing
on
the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

Shutting off a furnace that is dumping flue gasses into the indoor air?
Since when is that a crook thing to do?

I'm sure there are some crooks out there, who shut off furnaces which are
repairable. Lets not paint all furnace shutoffs as "crook".

--

Christopher A. Young
Join Alt-Hvac Moderated
A free, easy to use Yahoo! group



"StoneD" wrote in message
...

Warning.
If they shutdown and locked the system when they found the cracks in
the heat exchanger, then you are dealing with pure crooks. It is all
a ruse to make you buy a new system from them.

Never, never, never call them back and tell everyone you know to
never use that company of crooks again.

Now, if they ran the system and checked the heated rooms with a
carbon monoxide detector and it checked over the allowable limit, then
gave you some options on repairs, that is another story.

Stone











On Mon, 22 Dec 2003 21:59:41 GMT, "Frontier"
wrote:

Well, the repair people came out today and found a number of cracks in the
heat exchange. What was happinging was that one of the cracks was right by
the overheat switch/sensor and the heat escaping kept tripping it.

Thanks to all those who added comments.

"StoneD" wrote in message
...

Warning.
If they shutdown and locked the system when they found the cracks in
the heat exchanger, then you are dealing with pure crooks. It is all
a ruse to make you buy a new system from them.


That is the single worst advice I have ever seen...even from a hack like
Stormin Mormon



WRONG.

It is the LAW in most EVERY jurisdiction.

This is what should happen:

Proof of the leaking, or cracked heat exchanger is given...then, the unit is
locked, or made inoperateble in whatever fashion the local code enforcement
prefers.
Code enforcement officials, meaning, the guy that can legally tell you to
get the hell out of your home and condem it till its fixed and there isnt a
thing you can do about it, is called, and made fully aware, and a red tag,
not always red in color, but what we call a red tag is put on the furnace
and then, and ONLY then, options are discussed.

Now...there is only ONE option for a leaking and cracked heat exchanger:

Stop the damn leak.

IF its a Goodman, another POS unit, that used to use the PLASTIC caps in the
80% units, that fell out all the time, (hint of a REAL quality unit there)
then it can be REPAIRED. IF its a Trane that had the leaking seal on top, it
can be repaired, if its got a split in the clam, or the units got holes, or
cracks in it, then you have two options depending on age, and parts that can
be had...replacement of the heat exchanger, or unit itself.



Never, never, never call them back and tell everyone you know to
never use that company of crooks again.

So..when they call the local inspector out and the City or County guy asks
you AND the tech where in hell is the lock out on the gas line..what ya
gonna do when HE puts one on?

I locked one out about a month ago. The renters raised unholy hell....and
after being threatened with a beating, I just called the county.
They honestly did not believe I had that power, even when they were shown
that in the "Big Red Book", AKA, State Contractor Law.
He came out, looked around, found about 10 other non code issues, and told
them that the Sherriff was on his way and that the home was condemed till
the extreme violations were corrected.
Sorry..that can happen, and yes, it was a rats nest, and yes, we did the
work, but not for as much as you think, and the owner, another contractor
that had access to over 40 other AC guys, used us because he knew we would
do it right...even is he could not keep his rental up....that simple.
All our lockouts are worded that WE do NOT have to replace the unit, and we
do NOT have to repair it, but WE have to remove the lock.
That allows the customer to pick who he wants, and no, we dont get every job
that we lockout, and lockouts are more rare than you think.



Now, if they ran the system and checked the heated rooms with a
carbon monoxide detector and it checked over the allowable limit, then
gave you some options on repairs, that is another story.


Sorry...sir..the options in some areas are, Lock it out, or get fined, and
lose your licence...thats a pure fact.
Lawsuits....(shudder) what if he allows the unit to run, and someone
actually gets hurt, or sick in this sue happy enviroment?
No...sorry...lock it out, and be safe...on BOTH sides.




Stone











On Mon, 22 Dec 2003 21:59:41 GMT, "Frontier"
wrote:

Well, the repair people came out today and found a number of cracks in
the
heat exchange. What was happinging was that one of the cracks was right
by
the overheat switch/sensor and the heat escaping kept tripping it.

Thanks to all those who added comments.


"Frontier" wrote in message
...
I am having trouble with keeping the heat on in our home. The heat
will
come on, as normal, but the blower and heat will shut down before
reaching
the temperature at which the thermostat is set and the thermostat
continues
to flash "heat" as if it thinks the unit is still on. This normally
happens
when the outside temperature gets below about 20 F.

We called in the heating people and they determined that the valve was
shot
from doing a test that showed that little gas was getting to the
furnace.
This was right after Thanksgiving. We had a warm spell and it seemed
to
be
working OK, but the last few days have been colder and it is happening
again.

The odd thing is that sometimes it will run for hours and work fine, as
happened last night. I got up during the night to find the temperature
in
the house at 64. I turned the heat off (to reset the thoermostat) and
back
on and it ran for a number of hours.

Just a few minutes ago I turned it on after replacing the filter, and
it
ran
for about 10 minutes before shutting off, with "heat" still flashing on
the
thermostat.

Any ideas?

"StoneD" wrote in message
...

Warning.
If they shutdown and locked the system when they found the cracks in
the heat exchanger, then you are dealing with pure crooks. It is all
a ruse to make you buy a new system from them.

Never, never, never call them back and tell everyone you know to
never use that company of crooks again.

Now, if they ran the system and checked the heated rooms with a
carbon monoxide detector and it checked over the allowable limit, then
gave you some options on repairs, that is another story.

Stone



This is Turtle.

Your Joking right. OH awwwww , Your just trolling here , OK.

There is 3 things here that are pretty close to each other here and they
are.

You don't **** on Supermans leg and call him a Faget.
You don't hold a gun on the customer when getting paid.
You do leave a cracked heat exchanger running after you leave.

These things will keep you out of trouble if you don't do them.

TURTLE

The original poster sent a "follow up" and said that there was a crack in
the heat exchanger, and that the heat was getting to one of the safetys, and
shutting down the furnace. I was closer than I thought.

--

Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Thund3rstruck" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormonn Spilled my beer when they jumped on the table and
proclaimed in :

He said he just changed the filter. I did ask about airflow, and he
said it felt good.

I'm thinking cycling on fan limit.

I'm thinking you are wrong, especially if the airflow is less than
normal...

NOI