Please keep us apprised of your progress, or at least your widow should.
I want to make a nomination for the "Darwin Awards".



In article , says...
Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump. I cannot afford to
rent a dozer, grinder, or hire someone to do it for me. I have several
LARGE stumps to remove. Digging is also impossible because there are many
other tree roots nearby, and the ground is mostly rock and clay.

I cut down the trees a few years ago. I don't know what kind they are, but
they are the toughest damned trees I've ever seen in my life! My chainsaw
broke cutting them down, and an axe barely penetrates the surface! They
look like Poplar, but they are simply too large to be poplar trees.

I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:

1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
2) Fill it with gunpowder
3) Cork it tight
4) Install a long fuse
5) Light it and run

This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are a LOT of
nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to catch anything on
fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?

Also, I cannot use chemicals. The trees are right above my well sump.
Burning is also out of the question.

Please do not try this yourself. I don't anyone to get hurt from my idea.
I'm looking for people who've tried it or something similar.

Open to other suggestions. Advice is appreciated. Thanks a lot!



--
Bait for spammers:
root@localhost
postmaster@localhost
admin@localhost
abuse@localhost

"Michael Baugh" wrote in message . ..
What a very strange question. You're describing explosions of
devices. The cartridge, the M-80. And you're describing associated
devices being damaged. The gun doesn't explode, it is damaged by
the 'exploding' cartridge. The mailbox doesn't explode.
The 'relief channel' is designed into the device, such as the gun, But
let mud get into the barrel, and watch the force get vented otherwise.
The door of the mailbox doesn't have to open. The box may or may not
be deformed/damaged by the M-80, with or without the door opening.
In fact, the box could be damaged by the localized explosion, even with
the door open.
I'll not tell you where I got my training with explosives, but I can tell
you
that they've been in business for a long time, and that their training is
frequently called upon to change someone's lifestyle.
I will again endorse the choice of using stump rotting chemicals, and
ignoring you.

SteveB wrote in message
news:rastb.14271$Q64.1419@fed1read03...
As in when a cartridge in a gun is supposed to fire, and the "cork" (lead)
pop out through the barrel, but doesn't and causes the gun to "explode"?

As when a blackpowder M-80 is put into a mailbox, and the door doesn't
"pop"
open to relieve the pressure, but the mailbox is destroyed?

Things explode all the time although they have a relief channel.

Where did you go to explosives school? I think you should ask for a
refund.
What state do you live in? (other than the state of confusion) I want to
avoid that state in my travels.

Steve


As I said in an earlier post, true explosives do not need any
confining at all to do their damage. Think about it. Does a stick of
TNT need confining to explode? No. Will it do damage if just laying on
the ground? Yes. You can enhance the damage by tamping it into the
blast hole, but it is not necessary. C4 explosive needs no confining
and can be molded to whatever suface you wish to destroy. It can be
shaped to do more damage. If you had a flat piece of C4 and scooped
out a depression in it, oddly enough that depression is where the most
damage will be done. Smokeless powder that is used in modern firearms
is NOT an explosive. If you burn small arms ammunition the majority
of the cartridges will not detonate, they will rupture relatively
harmlessly and burn.

ANFO is also a true explosive that needs no confining. And it is
perfectly legal to buy the components, just like blackpowder and
smokeless powder, and perfectly legal to use any of theses for their
intended purposes, but it is absolutely not legal to use any of them
to make an explosive device.

Have fun

Crafty wrote:


Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump. I cannot
afford to rent a dozer, grinder, or hire someone to do it for me. I
have several LARGE stumps to remove. Digging is also impossible
because there are many other tree roots nearby, and the ground is
mostly rock and clay.

I cut down the trees a few years ago. I don't know what kind they
are, but they are the toughest damned trees I've ever seen in my
life! My chainsaw broke cutting them down, and an axe barely
penetrates the surface! They look like Poplar, but they are simply
too large to be poplar trees.

I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:

1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
2) Fill it with gunpowder


3) Cork it tight

Yeah,like that will work.Might shoot the cork a good distance.


4) Install a long fuse
5) Light it and run

This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are a
LOT of nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to catch
anything on fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?

Also, I cannot use chemicals. The trees are right above my well sump.
Burning is also out of the question.

Please do not try this yourself. I don't anyone to get hurt from my
idea. I'm looking for people who've tried it or something similar.

Open to other suggestions. Advice is appreciated. Thanks a lot!


When using explosives,one must consider where the debris will fly.
(possible damage to property,especially other's)
Blasting inside city limits also is a no-no.

From your comments/plans,it appears you lack knowledge of safely doing
any explosives work. I'd suggest a pro.


I load shotgun shells often, so I am familiar with gunpowder. I wasn't
aware that it was so unstable, and I've never had it detonate prematurely.
A little wood glue should hold the cork in place well enough. I already
have gunpowder, so the cost would be minimal.

Gunpowder isn't unstable, as you well know. Some people are
just scared of anything they don't know. OTOH, you
apparently haven't been around people who do know how to
blow stuff up without making a complete botch of it. You
have to shape the charge or at least direct it.

But to the larger topic. Your description of how hard this
wood is, sounds like a troll. Or, you have really crappy
tools. A simple brace and bit would have bored those holes
just fine, let alone using any power equipment. You have
had these stumps for years. If you had drilled a few holes
and put potassium nitrate in the holes, most of your problem
would be solved, and the potassium nitrate if put into the
wood holes would not affect your well. You best solution is
still to bore deep holes, add potassium nitrate, wait a
year, and then burn the stumps. First, don't buy some fancy
stump dissolver since it is just plaint potassium nitrate.
If you can't find it, just use ammonium nitrate (common
fertilizer), pack the holes, add water, and seal the hole if
you want. To burn these stumps, a contained fire would work
a lot better, although a hot maintained fire will also
work. You will need a bunch of fuel, so you need to build a
bonfire around the stump.

Of course, a much simpler solution is what everyone clearing
land does, buldoze the stumps into a pile and burn them.

Salt peter is just potassium nitrate. and ammonium nitrate
or sodium nitrate will work just as well as a fraction of
the cost

Michael Baugh wrote:

Go down to the local pharmacy and get a bunch of
salt peter, drill holes in the stump, and pour the
salt peter into the holes. The roots will then dry out
and start to rot.

Michael Baugh wrote in message
.. .

All right, let's give you an introduction to explosives.
Something explodes because it is in a confined space.
A cork plugging the hole is not sufficient to keep the
gunpowder from simply burning quickly and popping
the cork.
Frankly, I cannot BELIEVE that people haven't told
you about the most common way to make an explosive,
but perhaps it's so they don't want to share it with a few
dozen teenagers looking for a way to blow something up.

Crafty wrote in message
...

Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump. I cannot
afford to rent a dozer, grinder, or hire someone to do it for me. I
have several LARGE stumps to remove. Digging is also impossible
because there are many other tree roots nearby, and the ground is
mostly rock and clay.

I cut down the trees a few years ago. I don't know what kind they
are, but they are the toughest damned trees I've ever seen in my
life! My chainsaw broke cutting them down, and an axe barely
penetrates the surface! They look like Poplar, but they are simply
too large to be poplar trees.

I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:

1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
2) Fill it with gunpowder


3) Cork it tight

Yeah,like that will work.Might shoot the cork a good distance.


4) Install a long fuse
5) Light it and run

This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are a
LOT of nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to catch
anything on fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?

Also, I cannot use chemicals. The trees are right above my well sump.
Burning is also out of the question.

Please do not try this yourself. I don't anyone to get hurt from my
idea. I'm looking for people who've tried it or something similar.

Open to other suggestions. Advice is appreciated. Thanks a lot!


When using explosives,one must consider where the debris will fly.
(possible damage to property,especially other's)
Blasting inside city limits also is a no-no.

From your comments/plans,it appears you lack knowledge of safely doing
any explosives work. I'd suggest a pro.


I load shotgun shells often, so I am familiar with gunpowder. I wasn't
aware that it was so unstable, and I've never had it detonate
prematurely.
A little wood glue should hold the cork in place well enough. I already
have gunpowder, so the cost would be minimal.

EJ wrote:

"Michael Baugh" wrote in message
...

Go down to the local pharmacy and get a bunch of
salt peter, drill holes in the stump, and pour the
salt peter into the holes. The roots will then dry out
and start to rot.

Michael Baugh wrote in message
.. .

All right, let's give you an introduction to explosives.
Something explodes because it is in a confined space.
A cork plugging the hole is not sufficient to keep the
gunpowder from simply burning quickly and popping
the cork.
Frankly, I cannot BELIEVE that people haven't told
you about the most common way to make an explosive,
but perhaps it's so they don't want to share it with a few
dozen teenagers looking for a way to blow something up.

Crafty wrote in message
...

Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump. I cannot
afford to rent a dozer, grinder, or hire someone to do it for me. I
have several LARGE stumps to remove. Digging is also impossible
because there are many other tree roots nearby, and the ground is
mostly rock and clay.

I cut down the trees a few years ago. I don't know what kind they
are, but they are the toughest damned trees I've ever seen in my
life! My chainsaw broke cutting them down, and an axe barely
penetrates the surface! They look like Poplar, but they are simply
too large to be poplar trees.

I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:

1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
2) Fill it with gunpowder


3) Cork it tight

Yeah,like that will work.Might shoot the cork a good distance.


4) Install a long fuse
5) Light it and run

This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are a
LOT of nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to catch
anything on fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?

Also, I cannot use chemicals. The trees are right above my well
sump.
Burning is also out of the question.

Please do not try this yourself. I don't anyone to get hurt from my
idea. I'm looking for people who've tried it or something similar.

Open to other suggestions. Advice is appreciated. Thanks a lot!


When using explosives,one must consider where the debris will fly.
(possible damage to property,especially other's)
Blasting inside city limits also is a no-no.

From your comments/plans,it appears you lack knowledge of safely
doing
any explosives work. I'd suggest a pro.


I load shotgun shells often, so I am familiar with gunpowder. I wasn't
aware that it was so unstable, and I've never had it detonate
prematurely.
A little wood glue should hold the cork in place well enough. I
already
have gunpowder, so the cost would be minimal.


HD has stuff called "Stump Out" which is salt peter. It will speed rot.
Also, you could easily cut the stump out a few months after application.

EJ

Buying potassium nitrate at a hugely inflated price as salt
peter isn't really smart. And, unless you live in a very
warm and wet climate, the salt peter isn't going to make the
stump easlily cut out in a few month. Try 3-4 years and
even longer depending on they type of tree.

On Sun, 16 Nov 2003 00:59:39 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
wrote:

[snip]
To burn these stumps, a contained fire would work
a lot better, although a hot maintained fire will also
work. You will need a bunch of fuel, so you need to build a
bonfire around the stump.

[snip]

You reminded me. Many years ago I had a mesquite stump to get rid of
(mesquite is *very* hard).

Sawed it off as flush to the ground as I could manage with a big
logger's saw, then dug around the roots to expose them.

Covered the whole thing with charcoal and lit it off.

Daily I'd come home from work and add more charcoal.

It was gone (below ground-level) in slightly over a week.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

According to bighead :
Thats not correct. Smokeless powder is not an explosive, it burns
very fast and when it is confined has explosive properties due to the
rapid expansion of gases. Blackpowder, on the other hand IS explosive
and needs no confining to make it so.

Sorry, wrong.

_Neither_ smokeless powder (eg: pyradex) or blackpowder are explosives.

["Explosive" being defined officially as when the gas expansion is
above the speed of sound.]

The difference between gunpowder and smokeless powder is simply that
gunpowder's coefficient of combustion is such that it burns _very_
fast even if uncontained - but still not an explosive shock wave.

How fast depends on the grain size (primarily). Antique firearms
usually use FFFFg (very fine) or FFFg (fine). Antique firearms
simply don't work properly with coarser black powder.

The only way you can get blackpowder to "go boom" is contain
it inside something like a pipe with threaded on ends. Then you're
getting the boom from the pipe overpressuring and throwing bits.

Pyradex, when unconfined burns fairly slowly comparatively.

A hand full of smokeless powder
can be touched off with a match and will only burn, admittedly very
fast and you may loose some eyebrows, but a hand full of blackpowder
would take your hand off when a match touched it.

Sorry no. Blackpowder does the "flash, lose eyebrows" trick[+]. Pyradex
uncontained is _much_ tamer. More like safety matches burning.

The only way you can get firearms to work with pyradex is to contain
it to build pressure, then it burns much faster. Blackpowder burn rate
doesn't depend nearly as much on pressure.

If blackpowder was an explosive, you couldn't make rocket motors with it.
You couldn't use it in a firearm (it's a little late to find that out
now ;-)

The chinese started flying blackpowder rockets around 1000AD.

Kids fly model rockets with blackpowder motors (ordinary ESTES model
rocket motors) every day.

I fly amateur rockets (I'm certified to motors that can throw a 25
pound rocket 3000' up). While the fuel grains themselves aren't blackpowder
(AP actually), we used blackpowder to pressure-eject the recovery system
(usually a parachute).

If blackpowder was explosive, the rocket would come down in itty bitty bits.
Which can ruin your whole day.

We generally don't use pyradex (despite it being a lot easier
to get these days) for ejection charges because when used as we use
blackpowder, it produces gas too slowly. To use pyradex, you have
to try moderately complicated containment methods that let pressure
build up high enough to get the burn rate fast enough, and then let
the pressure out without blowing a hole in the rocket.

[+] A friend of mine lost his eyebrows and got a free facial peel from the
flash when he got a little too close to a teaspoon of gunpowder set off in
a dish. The dish survived. Only slightly melted. If blackpowder was
explosive, the dish would be in itty bitty bits. My friend survived
just fine too. Lost some acne scars in the process... Some people pay
a lot of money for that process... ;-)

The most common method and one we used when was working on a pipeline
is ANFO.

Do note that getting ANFO to work _properly_ requires care in selecting
ingredients (beyond simply the right chemicals), mixing ratios, etc.
McVey tried for quite a while before he got it right.

Secondly, ANFO is difficult to set off. One of it's great attractivenesses
is that it's very stable and safe to handle. If you light
it, it just burns. Like the fuel oil it contains. You need a pretty
violent shock - a blasting cap (or even a stick of dynamite) - to make
it detonate.

ANFO is great for large scale application. They carry it around in pumper
trucks on large quarry sites, and just pour it down the holes. Insert
blasting cap, insert a wad of something to seal the hole, and fire the
cap.

For a onsey-twosey remove stump job, hiring a contractor to come by
with a couple sticks of dynamite is a lot more effective.

But trying any of these is unsafe and probably would earn you a
comfortable stay in a warm place with 3 meals a day, hospital or
jail.

Very unsafe. The prison term is when you manufacture explosives without
a license. Or store it without a LEUP. Plus violating local ordinances
about permits etc.

[As I understand it, and perhaps still even now, I'd merely need to go
to the Ontario Provincial Police, say "I want to blow up three stumps
at this address at such and such an address", they give me a permit (if
they think what I'm doing is reasonable), which gives me permission to
purchase the appropriate number of dynamite sticks, and then I can set
the stuff off myself as per the permit. Without having a "license"
per-se. But the SO won't let me, so I've not gotten to test my
understanding... ;-)]
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

According to bighead :

As I said in an earlier post, true explosives do not need any
confining at all to do their damage.

Precisely.

If you had a flat piece of C4 and scooped
out a depression in it, oddly enough that depression is where the most
damage will be done.

In fact, there's a similar trick you can play with TNT sticks. Let say
you want to punch a hole in a rock. Take three sticks of TNT and
prop them up as a "teepee" above where you want the hole. Fire all
three at once. The shock waves reinforce each other and punch a hole
straight down.

Smokeless powder that is used in modern firearms
is NOT an explosive.

Similarly, black powder as used in antique firearms is NOT
an explosive either.

If it was, the gun would simply explode in your face, REGARDLESS
of whether there was a bullet in front of the charge or not.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

According to Jim Thompson :
You reminded me. Many years ago I had a mesquite stump to get rid of
(mesquite is *very* hard).

Sawed it off as flush to the ground as I could manage with a big
logger's saw, then dug around the roots to expose them.

Covered the whole thing with charcoal and lit it off.

Daily I'd come home from work and add more charcoal.

Did you BBQ with it daily too?

You should have ;-)
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

(bighead) wrote in
om:

"Michael Baugh" wrote in message
. ..
What a very strange question. You're describing explosions of
devices. The cartridge, the M-80. And you're describing associated
devices being damaged. The gun doesn't explode, it is damaged by
the 'exploding' cartridge. The mailbox doesn't explode.
The 'relief channel' is designed into the device, such as the gun,
But let mud get into the barrel, and watch the force get vented
otherwise. The door of the mailbox doesn't have to open. The box may
or may not be deformed/damaged by the M-80, with or without the door
opening. In fact, the box could be damaged by the localized
explosion, even with the door open.
I'll not tell you where I got my training with explosives, but I can
tell you
that they've been in business for a long time, and that their
training is frequently called upon to change someone's lifestyle.
I will again endorse the choice of using stump rotting chemicals, and
ignoring you.

SteveB wrote in message
news:rastb.14271$Q64.1419@fed1read03...
As in when a cartridge in a gun is supposed to fire, and the "cork"
(lead) pop out through the barrel, but doesn't and causes the gun
to "explode"?

As when a blackpowder M-80 is put into a mailbox, and the door
doesn't
"pop"
open to relieve the pressure, but the mailbox is destroyed?

Things explode all the time although they have a relief channel.

Where did you go to explosives school? I think you should ask for
a
refund.
What state do you live in? (other than the state of confusion) I
want to avoid that state in my travels.

Steve


As I said in an earlier post, true explosives do not need any
confining at all to do their damage. Think about it. Does a stick of
TNT need confining to explode? No. Will it do damage if just laying on
the ground? Yes. You can enhance the damage by tamping it into the
blast hole, but it is not necessary. C4 explosive needs no confining
and can be molded to whatever suface you wish to destroy. It can be
shaped to do more damage. If you had a flat piece of C4 and scooped
out a depression in it, oddly enough that depression is where the most
damage will be done. Smokeless powder that is used in modern firearms
is NOT an explosive. If you burn small arms ammunition the majority
of the cartridges will not detonate, they will rupture relatively
harmlessly and burn.

ANFO is also a true explosive that needs no confining. And it is
perfectly legal to buy the components, just like blackpowder and
smokeless powder, and perfectly legal to use any of theses for their
intended purposes, but it is absolutely not legal to use any of them
to make an explosive device.

Have fun


There's LOW-ORDER explosives,and high-order explosives.
Big difference,mainly in how fast the explosion travels.

Disclaimer;I'm not an expert.

--
Jim Yanik,NRA member
jyanik-at-kua.net

(Chris Lewis) wrote in news:bp6lbf$1kk5fd$1@ID-
118425.news.uni-berlin.de:

According to bighead :

As I said in an earlier post, true explosives do not need any
confining at all to do their damage.

Precisely.

If you had a flat piece of C4 and scooped
out a depression in it, oddly enough that depression is where the most
damage will be done.

In fact, there's a similar trick you can play with TNT sticks. Let say
you want to punch a hole in a rock. Take three sticks of TNT and
prop them up as a "teepee" above where you want the hole. Fire all
three at once. The shock waves reinforce each other and punch a hole
straight down.

A crude 'hollow-charge',using the Monroe Effect,like RPG warheads.


--
Jim Yanik,NRA member
jyanik-at-kua.net

"SteveB" wrote in
news:bdstb.14289$Q64.1072@fed1read03:


"bighead" wrote
The most common method and one we used when was working on a pipeline
is ANFO.

But trying any of these is unsafe and probably would earn you a
comfortable stay in a warm place with 3 meals a day, hospital or
jail.

Buying ammonium nitrate fertilizer and fuel oil is illegal now?

Steve



Depends on how much you buy,and your address.(location)

--
Jim Yanik,NRA member
jyanik-at-kua.net

look in the yellow pages under tree care or aborists. find those who
advertise stump grinding. get some bids. hire one. that is THE best way
to do it. youwill endup with piles of rich mulch, nothing broken or
screwed up and lighter in the pocket with a job well done

I did that once. Every day, a brushoff of the
previous day's ashes, more charcoal, plenty of heat.

Only needed a little over a week on that one.

Jim Thompson wrote in message
...
On Sun, 16 Nov 2003 00:59:39 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
wrote:

[snip]
To burn these stumps, a contained fire would work
a lot better, although a hot maintained fire will also
work. You will need a bunch of fuel, so you need to build a
bonfire around the stump.

[snip]

You reminded me. Many years ago I had a mesquite stump to get rid of
(mesquite is *very* hard).

Sawed it off as flush to the ground as I could manage with a big
logger's saw, then dug around the roots to expose them.

Covered the whole thing with charcoal and lit it off.

Daily I'd come home from work and add more charcoal.

It was gone (below ground-level) in slightly over a week.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

What a very strange question. You're describing explosions of
devices. The cartridge, the M-80. And you're describing associated
devices being damaged. The gun doesn't explode, it is damaged by
the 'exploding' cartridge. The mailbox doesn't explode.
The 'relief channel' is designed into the device, such as the gun,
But let mud get into the barrel, and watch the force get vented
otherwise. The door of the mailbox doesn't have to open. The box may
or may not be deformed/damaged by the M-80, with or without the door
opening. In fact, the box could be damaged by the localized
explosion, even with the door open.
I'll not tell you where I got my training with explosives, but I can
tell you
that they've been in business for a long time, and that their
training is frequently called upon to change someone's lifestyle.
I will again endorse the choice of using stump rotting chemicals, and
ignoring you.

SteveB wrote in message
news:rastb.14271$Q64.1419@fed1read03...
As in when a cartridge in a gun is supposed to fire, and the "cork"
(lead) pop out through the barrel, but doesn't and causes the gun
to "explode"?

As when a blackpowder M-80 is put into a mailbox, and the door
doesn't
"pop"
open to relieve the pressure, but the mailbox is destroyed?

Things explode all the time although they have a relief channel.

Where did you go to explosives school? I think you should ask for
a
refund.
What state do you live in? (other than the state of confusion) I
want to avoid that state in my travels.

Steve


As I said in an earlier post, true explosives do not need any
confining at all to do their damage. Think about it. Does a stick of
TNT need confining to explode? No. Will it do damage if just laying on
the ground? Yes. You can enhance the damage by tamping it into the
blast hole, but it is not necessary. C4 explosive needs no confining
and can be molded to whatever suface you wish to destroy. It can be
shaped to do more damage. If you had a flat piece of C4 and scooped
out a depression in it, oddly enough that depression is where the most
damage will be done. Smokeless powder that is used in modern firearms
is NOT an explosive. If you burn small arms ammunition the majority
of the cartridges will not detonate, they will rupture relatively
harmlessly and burn.

ANFO is also a true explosive that needs no confining. And it is
perfectly legal to buy the components, just like blackpowder and
smokeless powder, and perfectly legal to use any of theses for their
intended purposes, but it is absolutely not legal to use any of them
to make an explosive device.

Have fun

Firearm misfires will readily breech carbon steel and blow your face off.
It happens. Gunpowder is explosive under pressure.

I know. And getting mushrooms started on the stump
will break it down, too.
Only reason I mentioned the saltpeter is because the
stump rotting product had already been mentioned,
with the same ingredient. Even if it took a 50 pound
bag of ammonium nitrate, it would be better than an
amateur trying his hand with blasting stumps.

George E. Cawthon wrote in message
...
Salt peter is just potassium nitrate. and ammonium nitrate
or sodium nitrate will work just as well as a fraction of
the cost

Michael Baugh wrote:

Go down to the local pharmacy and get a bunch of
salt peter, drill holes in the stump, and pour the
salt peter into the holes. The roots will then dry out
and start to rot.

Michael Baugh wrote in message
.. .

All right, let's give you an introduction to explosives.
Something explodes because it is in a confined space.
A cork plugging the hole is not sufficient to keep the
gunpowder from simply burning quickly and popping
the cork.
Frankly, I cannot BELIEVE that people haven't told
you about the most common way to make an explosive,
but perhaps it's so they don't want to share it with a few
dozen teenagers looking for a way to blow something up.

Crafty wrote in message
...

Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump. I cannot
afford to rent a dozer, grinder, or hire someone to do it for me.
I
have several LARGE stumps to remove. Digging is also impossible
because there are many other tree roots nearby, and the ground is
mostly rock and clay.

I cut down the trees a few years ago. I don't know what kind they
are, but they are the toughest damned trees I've ever seen in my
life! My chainsaw broke cutting them down, and an axe barely
penetrates the surface! They look like Poplar, but they are
simply
too large to be poplar trees.

I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:

1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches
deep
2) Fill it with gunpowder


3) Cork it tight

Yeah,like that will work.Might shoot the cork a good distance.


4) Install a long fuse
5) Light it and run

This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are
a
LOT of nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to
catch
anything on fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?

Also, I cannot use chemicals. The trees are right above my well
sump.
Burning is also out of the question.

Please do not try this yourself. I don't anyone to get hurt from
my
idea. I'm looking for people who've tried it or something
similar.

Open to other suggestions. Advice is appreciated. Thanks a lot!


When using explosives,one must consider where the debris will fly.
(possible damage to property,especially other's)
Blasting inside city limits also is a no-no.

From your comments/plans,it appears you lack knowledge of safely
doing
any explosives work. I'd suggest a pro.


I load shotgun shells often, so I am familiar with gunpowder. I
wasn't
aware that it was so unstable, and I've never had it detonate
prematurely.
A little wood glue should hold the cork in place well enough. I
already
have gunpowder, so the cost would be minimal.

Anything can cause an explosion if it generates gases
quickly enough within an enclosed space. Even water,
in a BLEVE with a water heater with overtemperature
and a failed/nonexistant popoff protection.
But it really agravates me to see those 'Hollywood' fires
in which a gallon of gasoline, poured on the floor, 'causes'
an explosion.
Another thing that sets me off is the flashes that are supposed
to indicate gunshot hits.

If I were dead set on blowing stumps with gunpowder, I'd make
some pipe bombs a little smaller than the hole in the tree. With
care about getting powder into the threads.

Crafty wrote in message
...

Firearm misfires will readily breech carbon steel and blow your face off.
It happens. Gunpowder is explosive under pressure.

"Crafty" wrote in message
...
Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump.

I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:

1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
2) Fill it with gunpowder
3) Cork it tight
4) Install a long fuse
5) Light it and run

This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are a LOT of
nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to catch anything on
fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?



Weeeel, fresh out of school young Johnson started his business as a
tree surgeon. His first job was a contract to remove a stubborn tree
stump in a farmer's field. Not having done it before he wasn't quite
sure how much dynamite to use. Rather than appear stumped he pulled
out his tape measure and took a lot of measurements in every way he
could while he figured out what to do. Finally he couldn't stall any
longer and went ahead.

BOOM. He must have used a bit too much dynamite. The stump left a
neat hole in the ground and arched gracefully into the air. And
landed right on top of his truck's cab.

The farmer's jaw dropped. He was impressed.

"Hey young fella. With a bit more practice your will get it to drop
that on the box everytime."

On 15-Nov-2003, "Michael Baugh" wrote:

I know. And getting mushrooms started on the stump
will break it down, too.
Only reason I mentioned the saltpeter is because the
stump rotting product had already been mentioned,
with the same ingredient. Even if it took a 50 pound
bag of ammonium nitrate, it would be better than an
amateur trying his hand with blasting stumps.

let him try it... he will have even more stumps... like stumps for arms and
legs if he's lucky...

On 15-Nov-2003, Stormin Mormonn wrote:

Michael Baugh wrote:

All right, let's give you an introduction to explosives.
Something explodes because it is in a confined space.
A cork plugging the hole is not sufficient to keep the
gunpowder from simply burning quickly and popping
the cork.

Hi. This week I'm an explosives expert. And you've just described the
feeling and effect I get when I pull the gerbil's head out of my rectum.
Oooohh. I can only imagine having a tree stump in my ass! Ohh babeee!

--
Christopher a. Bung
Learn more about Gay Mormon Boys
www.lsd.org
www.mormons_luv_anal_sex.org

oh.... so YOU are teh one that ended up in the hospital after having the
gasses ignited while trying to remove the gerbil, eh?

Did you hear the one about the man that woke up
in the hospital after a bad accident? He screamed
"I can't feel my legs!!!" Doctor comes in and says,
"That's right. Your arms are gone."
The tree stumps aren't eating anything, some fertilizer on
them and in them will help break them down over a
few years, and be done with it.

Daniel L. Belton wrote in message
...
let him try it... he will have even more stumps... like stumps for arms
and
legs if he's lucky...

On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 06:18:50 GMT, Crafty wrote
(with possible editing):

....snip

I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:

1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
2) Fill it with gunpowder
3) Cork it tight
4) Install a long fuse
5) Light it and run

This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are a LOT of
nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to catch anything on
fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?

Also, I cannot use chemicals. The trees are right above my well sump.
Burning is also out of the question.


Well, ok. First of all, you'd get a more effective and cheaper blast
using ammonium nitrate (common fertilizer) and diesel fuel. Problem
is that you need to set it off with a blasting cap and that might be
tough to get. Second of all, you normally dig down between the roots,
make a much larger hole which you pack with the mixture above. Third
of all, you don't ever do that with a sump below.

The well sump is a real problem. The folks who told you that nitrogen
based fertilizer will work were quite right, but I don't know if the
residue is something you want to end up in your well.

FWLIW, I'd do it the hard way - dig down as far as you can, hook your
largest vehicle to the stump (use heavy chain) and pull. It's not
easy, but you'll eliminate the problem of well damage which could be
far more expensive.

If it were me, I'd get a friend with a backhoe and I'd stick an old
chain on the chainsaw.
--

Larry
Email to rapp at lmr dot com

"SteveB" wrote in message news:Ee8tb.7641$Q64.2706@fed1read03...
"DBCooper" wrote in message
...
Let me know when the blast will occur. I want to come and watch.


My favorite video clip was the one from the Pacific Northwest.

A whale beached itself, and died. There was a discussion on the best way to
remove the whale from the beach. Too big to pick up and put on a flatbed.

Ah yes, a classic

http://perp.com/whale/video.html

Well, the usual answers are chemcals, fire, hire it out, dig and saw, or
burn it.

Since you've ruled out all the answers, I guess you are stuck with your
problem since you don't want an answer.

BTW, explosives will create all the problems you say you don't want. You
obviously don't have experience with explosives, or you'd just go do it. And
not bother to post to usenet.

You're still stuck with your problem. Too bad.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn More about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Crafty" wrote in message
...
Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump. I cannot afford
to
rent a dozer, grinder, or hire someone to do it for me. I have several
LARGE stumps to remove. Digging is also impossible because there are many
other tree roots nearby, and the ground is mostly rock and clay.

I cut down the trees a few years ago. I don't know what kind they are, but
they are the toughest damned trees I've ever seen in my life! My chainsaw
broke cutting them down, and an axe barely penetrates the surface! They
look like Poplar, but they are simply too large to be poplar trees.

I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:

1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
2) Fill it with gunpowder
3) Cork it tight
4) Install a long fuse
5) Light it and run

This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are a LOT of
nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to catch anything on
fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?

Also, I cannot use chemicals. The trees are right above my well sump.
Burning is also out of the question.

Please do not try this yourself. I don't anyone to get hurt from my idea.
I'm looking for people who've tried it or something similar.

Open to other suggestions. Advice is appreciated. Thanks a lot!

Marketing of identical stuff under different names is one of
my favorite things to bitch about. I've often compared the
contents of general insecticides or fungicides with
specialized products such as for roses. Often the contents
and concentrations are identical (if they are all the same
brand) but products for a particular plant are often priced
as 2 or more times the cost of general purpose one is. In
some case the contents are the same but the specialized
product is at a much weaker concentration but is still 2 or
more times the cost of the general purpose product.

You are also right about the blasting, that should be
anyone's last resort (and might be) if they don't know what
they are doing.



Michael Baugh wrote:

I know. And getting mushrooms started on the stump
will break it down, too.
Only reason I mentioned the saltpeter is because the
stump rotting product had already been mentioned,
with the same ingredient. Even if it took a 50 pound
bag of ammonium nitrate, it would be better than an
amateur trying his hand with blasting stumps.

George E. Cawthon wrote in message
...
Salt peter is just potassium nitrate. and ammonium nitrate
or sodium nitrate will work just as well as a fraction of
the cost

Michael Baugh wrote:

Go down to the local pharmacy and get a bunch of
salt peter, drill holes in the stump, and pour the
salt peter into the holes. The roots will then dry out
and start to rot.

Michael Baugh wrote in message
.. .

All right, let's give you an introduction to explosives.
Something explodes because it is in a confined space.
A cork plugging the hole is not sufficient to keep the
gunpowder from simply burning quickly and popping
the cork.
Frankly, I cannot BELIEVE that people haven't told
you about the most common way to make an explosive,
but perhaps it's so they don't want to share it with a few
dozen teenagers looking for a way to blow something up.

Crafty wrote in message
...

Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump. I cannot
afford to rent a dozer, grinder, or hire someone to do it for me.
I
have several LARGE stumps to remove. Digging is also impossible
because there are many other tree roots nearby, and the ground is
mostly rock and clay.

I cut down the trees a few years ago. I don't know what kind they
are, but they are the toughest damned trees I've ever seen in my
life! My chainsaw broke cutting them down, and an axe barely
penetrates the surface! They look like Poplar, but they are
simply
too large to be poplar trees.

I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:

1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches
deep
2) Fill it with gunpowder


3) Cork it tight

Yeah,like that will work.Might shoot the cork a good distance.


4) Install a long fuse
5) Light it and run

This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are
a
LOT of nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to
catch
anything on fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?

Also, I cannot use chemicals. The trees are right above my well
sump.
Burning is also out of the question.

Please do not try this yourself. I don't anyone to get hurt from
my
idea. I'm looking for people who've tried it or something
similar.

Open to other suggestions. Advice is appreciated. Thanks a lot!


When using explosives,one must consider where the debris will fly.
(possible damage to property,especially other's)
Blasting inside city limits also is a no-no.

From your comments/plans,it appears you lack knowledge of safely
doing
any explosives work. I'd suggest a pro.


I load shotgun shells often, so I am familiar with gunpowder. I
wasn't
aware that it was so unstable, and I've never had it detonate
prematurely.
A little wood glue should hold the cork in place well enough. I
already
have gunpowder, so the cost would be minimal.

In the common context, explosive means it burns rapidly.
There are probably several different legal definitions of
explosive.

Anyone who want's to see the difference between smokeless
and black powder only needs to lay out a line of each and
touch each off with a match. However, the burning of
unconfined powder is quite different from compressed
powder. If you want to see dramatic differences put the
same amount of blackpowder in a rifle and compress one load
then try it without compression. Or, put it in any other
container and then watch what happens. There is a reason
that you use a ramrod with black powder even when the ball
will roll down the barrel. And if you reload cartridges,
you know that blackpowder reloads are compressed and with
smokeless powder there is often a lot of space between the
cartridge and the bullet.

The statement that antique firearms use 4F and 3F is
incorrect, pistols, small rifles, and flash pans use the
finer grains. 2F is often used for larger bore rifles.

You don't need pipes for blackpowder or smokeless powder to
go boom. Paper tubes work just fine, e.g., fire crackers.

Chris Lewis wrote:


Sorry, wrong.

_Neither_ smokeless powder (eg: pyradex) or blackpowder are explosives.

["Explosive" being defined officially as when the gas expansion is
above the speed of sound.]

The difference between gunpowder and smokeless powder is simply that
gunpowder's coefficient of combustion is such that it burns _very_
fast even if uncontained - but still not an explosive shock wave.

How fast depends on the grain size (primarily). Antique firearms
usually use FFFFg (very fine) or FFFg (fine). Antique firearms
simply don't work properly with coarser black powder.

The only way you can get blackpowder to "go boom" is contain
it inside something like a pipe with threaded on ends. Then you're
getting the boom from the pipe overpressuring and throwing bits.

Pyradex, when unconfined burns fairly slowly comparatively.

A hand full of smokeless powder
can be touched off with a match and will only burn, admittedly very
fast and you may loose some eyebrows, but a hand full of blackpowder
would take your hand off when a match touched it.

Sorry no. Blackpowder does the "flash, lose eyebrows" trick[+]. Pyradex
uncontained is _much_ tamer. More like safety matches burning.

The only way you can get firearms to work with pyradex is to contain
it to build pressure, then it burns much faster. Blackpowder burn rate
doesn't depend nearly as much on pressure.

If blackpowder was an explosive, you couldn't make rocket motors with it.
You couldn't use it in a firearm (it's a little late to find that out
now ;-)
((much deleted to save space))
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 06:18:50 GMT, Crafty wrote:

Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump. I cannot afford to
rent a dozer, grinder, or hire someone to do it for me. I have several
LARGE stumps to remove. Digging is also impossible because there are many
other tree roots nearby, and the ground is mostly rock and clay.


If renting a grinder is too inconvenient how about using a chainsaw as
a gouger. That is use the tip of the chainsaw to gouge out a large
hole in the stump so that you can pour chemicals into it and minimize
the chemicals running out to contaminate the soil. Once the surface
layers of the stump have softened use the chainsaw to remove the gunk
and repeat the process until the stump can be cut back to below ground
level.

On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 12:21:54 GMT, klm wrote (with
possible editing):

....snip

If renting a grinder is too inconvenient how about using a chainsaw as
a gouger. That is use the tip of the chainsaw to gouge out a large
hole in the stump so that you can pour chemicals into it and minimize
the chemicals running out to contaminate the soil. Once the surface
layers of the stump have softened use the chainsaw to remove the gunk
and repeat the process until the stump can be cut back to below ground
level.

No flame intended, but that is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS! Never, ever use
the tip of a chainsaw to gouge - that's an invitation for kickback and
serious injury. Many folks cut with the top of the bar, most use the
bottom, and a few adventurous souls (usually loggers) use the bottom
quarter of the tip, but never the top quarter.
--

Larry
Email to rapp at lmr dot com

On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 12:21:54 GMT, klm wrote:
On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 06:18:50 GMT, Crafty wrote:

Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump. I cannot afford to
rent a dozer, grinder, or hire someone to do it for me. I have several
LARGE stumps to remove. Digging is also impossible because there are many
other tree roots nearby, and the ground is mostly rock and clay.


If renting a grinder is too inconvenient how about using a chainsaw as
a gouger. That is use the tip of the chainsaw to gouge out a large
hole in the stump so that you can pour chemicals into it and minimize
the chemicals running out to contaminate the soil. Once the surface
layers of the stump have softened use the chainsaw to remove the gunk
and repeat the process until the stump can be cut back to below ground
level.

I wouldn't. Too easy to catch the wrong side of the tip and get a saw
bar in your skull.

Might try an angle grinder with a wood carving disc installed, however.

On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 15:58:42 GMT, Charles

According to Crafty :

Firearm misfires will readily breech carbon steel and blow your face off.
It happens. Gunpowder is explosive under pressure.

Smokeless powder will do the same thing under the right conditions.

Heck, we can get a chunk of wood or ordinary plastic to "explode" by
that definition.

Does that make wood or plastic pipe an explosive?

I suspect not.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

We just had a similar problem and found that a stout tripod built over the stump and removed through a 2000 Lbs capacity come-along wich works great in removing stumps.
you will need the ground softened by watering the area for a few weeks prior to removing the stump and roots. Clay soil takes a long time to become damp.
Best time to do this is in the spring time when the clay soil is at it's dampest.
Do to the location above a sump this sounds rather suspicious if you want to remove all of the stump and roots without planning to also replace the sump.
If you are wanting to level a yard pay for a stump grinding outfit to remove the stump 12" below the ground.

On Thu, 4 May 2006 20:59:00 +0100, mglodowski
wrote:

I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:

1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
2) Fill it with gunpowder
3) Cork it tight
4) Install a long fuse
5) Light it and run


Reminds me of this story.

Caleb had recently graduated from a tree-surgeon school (can't recall
exactly what type school so 'tss' will have to do.) So he set up shop
and the first was a call from a farmer who wanted to remove a large
tree stump from his section. Caleb loaded up his truck and headed
out. As he had never used dynamite before for stump removal he wasn't
quite sure how to go about it. So he whupped out his tape measure and
stalled for time by making a lot of measurements while he figured out
what to do next. Well one can only stall for so long, especially with
the farmer looking on. So Caleb snucked the dynamite under the stump
and took shelter at a safe distance so that he could set it off.
BOOM. Caleb must have put bin a bit too much charge. The stump
lifted off gracefully into the air and arced down to demolish his
truck's cab. The farmer was impressed. "Hey there young fella. With
a bit of practice you will get it to land on the box everytime."

On Fri, 05 May 2006 16:03:23 GMT, PaPaPeng wrote:
On Thu, 4 May 2006 20:59:00 +0100, mglodowski
wrote:

I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:

1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
2) Fill it with gunpowder
3) Cork it tight
4) Install a long fuse
5) Light it and run

snip

Gonna have to do better than that.
Hole is not deep enough, and there would not be sufficient deoth to
tamp the charge......You fail to mention where in relatinship to stump
you intend to drill said charge hole.......you certainly do not want
to drill it in the cut end of the stump, or yuour gonna have a lot of
fragmentation, and more than likely still leave a heap of roots inthe
ground. YOu need toget down and under the stump with a bar, and no
hole drilling would be needed most of the times. A good placed charge
will loosen and lift stump and not fragment much if any at all.
Why not just buy some dynamite and electric or fuse type cap and be
done with it. Here yu can buy it all day long as long as you have a
drivers license and are a property owner........What ever you buy has
tobe uysed the same date as the purchase and can not be
stored......but thats hard to enforce.........Going price right now
for it is $2.09 for a stick, and .90 for a electric cap. I only use
electric so do not kow price of fuse type or the price of fuse.

==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
"The original frugal ponder.."Since my statements are
given freely, take em or leave em, I am entitled to
my opinion none the less. My opinion and $1 is still
only worth $1.....
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o