The tolerance for the countersinks on my current project is pretty tight. I
have 20 holes to drill and I want the countersinks to be consistent. None
of the depth stop collars that I have will work, so I made my own:

http://imgur.com/a/N9ChK

I can center the washer and fitting over the spot I need to drill, insert the
drill and when the fitting begins to spin, I know I'm at the right depth. The
washer prevents the copper fitting from marring the wood when it spins. You'll notice that I had to shorten the fitting just a little to get it to the right
length.

Feel free to steal my idea, I don't plan to patent it ;-)

On 8/7/16 6:22 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
The tolerance for the countersinks on my current project is pretty tight. I
have 20 holes to drill and I want the countersinks to be consistent. None
of the depth stop collars that I have will work, so I made my own:

http://imgur.com/a/N9ChK

I can center the washer and fitting over the spot I need to drill, insert the
drill and when the fitting begins to spin, I know I'm at the right depth. The
washer prevents the copper fitting from marring the wood when it spins. You'll notice that I had to shorten the fitting just a little to get it to the right
length.

Feel free to steal my idea, I don't plan to patent it ;-)

Nice build, looks more fancy than the one I made with a chunk of wood
and a washer.

Jon

On Sun, 7 Aug 2016 17:22:05 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

The tolerance for the countersinks on my current project is pretty tight. I
have 20 holes to drill and I want the countersinks to be consistent. None
of the depth stop collars that I have will work, so I made my own:

http://imgur.com/a/N9ChK

I can center the washer and fitting over the spot I need to drill, insert the
drill and when the fitting begins to spin, I know I'm at the right depth. The
washer prevents the copper fitting from marring the wood when it spins. You'll notice that I had to shorten the fitting just a little to get it to the right
length.

Feel free to steal my idea, I don't plan to patent it ;-)

Nice. When you mentioned preventing marring the wood, I first
thought a piece of felt on bottom of the washer.

On Monday, August 8, 2016 at 1:18:53 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 7 Aug 2016 17:22:05 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

The tolerance for the countersinks on my current project is pretty tight. I
have 20 holes to drill and I want the countersinks to be consistent. None
of the depth stop collars that I have will work, so I made my own:

http://imgur.com/a/N9ChK

I can center the washer and fitting over the spot I need to drill, insert the
drill and when the fitting begins to spin, I know I'm at the right depth. The
washer prevents the copper fitting from marring the wood when it spins. You'll notice that I had to shorten the fitting just a little to get it to the right
length.

Feel free to steal my idea, I don't plan to patent it ;-)

Nice. When you mentioned preventing marring the wood, I first
thought a piece of felt on bottom of the washer.

The washer doesn't spin but the sharp edge of the fitting was leaving a
circle that I'd have to sand out. I'll need to sand the plugs I'm cutting
for the holes anyway, but if I can avoid adding more marks I will. The
takes care of that.

I swear I've spent more time making jigs for this project than actually
building it! Of course, once a jig is made, it really speeds up the
actual task that the jig was made for.

I'm making a bed similar to this with reclaimed Douglas Fir. The wood has
nice reddish hue to it, so it won't be as dark as the one pictured, but
the knotholes and imperfections will still be there.

https://img0.etsystatic.com/052/0/90...20270_c0a1.jpg

This is the wood, which I bought on Craigslist.

http://imgur.com/GF2qOCd

I made a jig to rout the mortises in the ends of the rails for the
hardware, a jig to inlay the supports for the slats, and now the depth
stop. I'll have to modify the mortising jig to rout the headboard and
foot board, but that shouldn't be much more than a repositioning of the
fence. (I hope!)

The mortising jig:

http://imgur.com/WoDp83o

On Sunday, August 7, 2016 at 7:22:09 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
The tolerance for the countersinks on my current project is pretty tight. I
have 20 holes to drill and I want the countersinks to be consistent. None
of the depth stop collars that I have will work, so I made my own:

http://imgur.com/a/N9ChK

I can center the washer and fitting over the spot I need to drill, insert the
drill and when the fitting begins to spin, I know I'm at the right depth. The
washer prevents the copper fitting from marring the wood when it spins. You'll notice that I had to shorten the fitting just a little to get it to the right
length.

Feel free to steal my idea, I don't plan to patent it ;-)

Very cool, I bow to thee for your use of brains and skill. It takes a lot of skill to assemble something using brains because the brains are bloody, sticky and get all over everything.

[8~{} Uncle Sticky Monster

DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...



The tolerance for the countersinks on my current project is pretty tight. I
have 20 holes to drill and I want the countersinks to be consistent. None
of the depth stop collars that I have will work, so I made my own:

http://imgur.com/a/N9ChK

I can center the washer and fitting over the spot I need to drill, insert the
drill and when the fitting begins to spin, I know I'm at the right depth. The
washer prevents the copper fitting from marring the wood when it spins. You'll notice that I had to shorten the fitting just a little to get it to the right
length.

Feel free to steal my idea, I don't plan to patent it ;-)

Not to criticize but why didn't you just use a proper size drill for the
countersink and mark it with tape?

--
Tekkie

On Monday, August 8, 2016 at 5:04:16 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...



The tolerance for the countersinks on my current project is pretty tight. I
have 20 holes to drill and I want the countersinks to be consistent. None
of the depth stop collars that I have will work, so I made my own:

http://imgur.com/a/N9ChK

I can center the washer and fitting over the spot I need to drill, insert the
drill and when the fitting begins to spin, I know I'm at the right depth. The
washer prevents the copper fitting from marring the wood when it spins. You'll notice that I had to shorten the fitting just a little to get it to the right
length.

Feel free to steal my idea, I don't plan to patent it ;-)

Not to criticize but why didn't you just use a proper size drill for the
countersink and mark it with tape?


By "proper size drill" I assume you mean "proper sized *bit*".

Assuming my assumption is correct, why don't you think I used the proper
sized bit? The bit shown in the image I posted is part of a set that
includes the bit and the countersink.

http://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-11-64...l-Bit/50093130

Besides, as noted in my OP, the depth issue is related to depth of the
counter sink, not the screw hole. While a piece of tape would have *told*
me when I was at the correct depth, the homemade stop *ensured* that I
was at the proper depth. No more, no less, no whoops. Tape is flexible,
tape gets worn, tape get wrinkled.

With 20 holes to drill, a solid stop with a wide base (the washer) basically
eliminates any chance of drilling any of the holes too deep. I just finished
drilling them earlier this evening and the stop worked to perfection. The
next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes.

DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...
Besides, as noted in my OP, the depth issue is related to depth of the
counter sink, not the screw hole. While a piece of tape would have *told*
me when I was at the correct depth, the homemade stop *ensured* that I
was at the proper depth. No more, no less, no whoops. Tape is flexible,
tape gets worn, tape get wrinkled.

With 20 holes to drill, a solid stop with a wide base (the washer) basically
eliminates any chance of drilling any of the holes too deep. I just finished
drilling them earlier this evening and the stop worked to perfection. The
next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes.

Okay enough of your nit picking crap...

Why didn't you use a correctly sized drill bit (say a 1/4") marked with tape
to provide the countersink?

They are called screw buttons.

So you drilled countersunk holes to install screw buttons? Why didn't you
just use a dowel?

--
Tekkie

On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 3:32:38 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...
Besides, as noted in my OP, the depth issue is related to depth of the
counter sink, not the screw hole. While a piece of tape would have *told*
me when I was at the correct depth, the homemade stop *ensured* that I
was at the proper depth. No more, no less, no whoops. Tape is flexible,
tape gets worn, tape get wrinkled.

With 20 holes to drill, a solid stop with a wide base (the washer) basically
eliminates any chance of drilling any of the holes too deep. I just finished
drilling them earlier this evening and the stop worked to perfection. The
next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes.

Okay enough of your nit picking crap...

....ignored...


Why didn't you use a correctly sized drill bit (say a 1/4") marked with tape
to provide the countersink?

Why would I use one bit to drill the screw hole and a different bit to make
the counter sink? That seems just a tad inefficient to me when one tool can
do it one step.

I have already explained the reason for the depth stop vs. the tape. You
can go back and read that again if you would like.

They are called screw buttons.

No, they are called plugs. Buttons have a domed top and the top extends
above the surface of the wood. Plugs sit flush with the surface of the wood..
I am using plugs, cut from the same wood using a plug cutter. Once the grain
is aligned and the finish is applied, the plugs just about disappear.


So you drilled countersunk holes to install screw buttons?

Nope. If you read what I wrote above, it should all be quite clear by now.

Why didn't you just use a dowel?

Because a plug cutter will cut a tapered plug from the same wood, perfectly
sized for the countersink bit that was used and (almost) perfectly matched
to the surrounding wood.

On 08/07/2016 7:22 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

of the depth stop collars that I have will work, so I made my own:

http://imgur.com/a/N9ChK
....

Have you seen
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=71860&cat=1,180,42240,42281,71860
?

Look familiar?

Just happened to notice in the newly-arrived Woodcraft catalog in "New
Products" last night after noticing this thread earlier in day...

--


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 2016-08-08, Jon Danniken wrote:

Nice build, looks more fancy than the one I made with a chunk of wood
and a washer.

Yeah, but does it work any better than putting masking tape on the
drill bit?

nb

On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 5:36:43 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 08/07/2016 7:22 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

of the depth stop collars that I have will work, so I made my own:

http://imgur.com/a/N9ChK
...

Have you seen
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=71860&cat=1,180,42240,42281,71860
?

Look familiar?

Just happened to notice in the newly-arrived Woodcraft catalog in "New
Products" last night after noticing this thread earlier in day...


$25 for theirs vs. $10 for mine, but that adjustable depth stop for the
counter sink could be sweet when different depth counter sinks are required.

Mine is kind of limited (no pun intended) in that respect. Of course, at
$0.50 a repair coupling, I could make a whole bunch of depth stops before
I've spent that additional $15. ;-)

Thanks for the link...I'll keep it in mind.

On 08/09/2016 4:50 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2016-08-08, Jon wrote:

Nice build, looks more fancy than the one I made with a chunk of wood
and a washer.

Yeah, but does it work any better than putting masking tape on the
drill bit?

It'll certainly be more precise (and, perhaps more importantly) stop any
'oops!' of going too far that can happen if a bit grabs a little grain
or ones attention is distracted by an external event or whatever...it
may not be critical in this application; occasionally a "blowout" on the
other side may be the result and end up ruining a workpiece.

--



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 5:54:58 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 08/09/2016 4:50 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2016-08-08, Jon wrote:

Nice build, looks more fancy than the one I made with a chunk of wood
and a washer.

Yeah, but does it work any better than putting masking tape on the
drill bit?

It'll certainly be more precise (and, perhaps more importantly) stop any
'oops!' of going too far that can happen if a bit grabs a little grain
or ones attention is distracted by an external event or whatever...it
may not be critical in this application; occasionally a "blowout" on the
other side may be the result and end up ruining a workpiece.


Well, at least *somebody* gets it! ;-)

In this case it was a delicate balance between making the countersink deep
enough to hold the plugs and preventing the screw from blowing out the face
of the bed rail. I could have shopped for 1/4" shorter screws, but I had
the longer screws on hand and it was easier to make the stop than to run
to store.

I mic'ed it after the screws were in and I was pretty damn close to a
blow out. I hope the wood doesn't shrink. ;-)

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 5:54:58 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 08/09/2016 4:50 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2016-08-08, Jon wrote:

Nice build, looks more fancy than the one I made with a chunk of
wood and a washer.

Yeah, but does it work any better than putting masking tape on the
drill bit?

It'll certainly be more precise (and, perhaps more importantly) stop
any 'oops!' of going too far that can happen if a bit grabs a little
grain or ones attention is distracted by an external event or
whatever...it may not be critical in this application; occasionally
a "blowout" on the other side may be the result and end up ruining a
workpiece.


Well, at least *somebody* gets it! ;-)

I got it right away ... but then I worked in cabinet shops for about 20
years .
--
Snag

On Wednesday, August 10, 2016 at 8:27:24 AM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 5:54:58 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 08/09/2016 4:50 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2016-08-08, Jon wrote:

Nice build, looks more fancy than the one I made with a chunk of
wood and a washer.

Yeah, but does it work any better than putting masking tape on the
drill bit?

It'll certainly be more precise (and, perhaps more importantly) stop
any 'oops!' of going too far that can happen if a bit grabs a little
grain or ones attention is distracted by an external event or
whatever...it may not be critical in this application; occasionally
a "blowout" on the other side may be the result and end up ruining a
workpiece.


Well, at least *somebody* gets it! ;-)

I got it right away ... but then I worked in cabinet shops for about 20
years .
--
Snag

Some did, some didn't. We won't mention any names. ;-)

Tekkie® posted for all of us...



DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...
Besides, as noted in my OP, the depth issue is related to depth of the
counter sink, not the screw hole. While a piece of tape would have *told*
me when I was at the correct depth, the homemade stop *ensured* that I
was at the proper depth. No more, no less, no whoops. Tape is flexible,
tape gets worn, tape get wrinkled.

With 20 holes to drill, a solid stop with a wide base (the washer) basically
eliminates any chance of drilling any of the holes too deep. I just finished
drilling them earlier this evening and the stop worked to perfection. The
next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes.

Okay enough of your nit picking crap...

Why didn't you use a correctly sized drill bit (say a 1/4") marked with tape
to provide the countersink?

They are called screw buttons.

So you drilled countersunk holes to install screw buttons? Why didn't you
just use a dowel?

Okay you didn't mention using plug cutters earlier.

--
Tekkie

On Wednesday, August 10, 2016 at 2:54:09 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
Tekkie® posted for all of us...



DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...
Besides, as noted in my OP, the depth issue is related to depth of the
counter sink, not the screw hole. While a piece of tape would have *told*
me when I was at the correct depth, the homemade stop *ensured* that I
was at the proper depth. No more, no less, no whoops. Tape is flexible,
tape gets worn, tape get wrinkled.

With 20 holes to drill, a solid stop with a wide base (the washer) basically
eliminates any chance of drilling any of the holes too deep. I just finished
drilling them earlier this evening and the stop worked to perfection. The
next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes.

Okay enough of your nit picking crap...

Why didn't you use a correctly sized drill bit (say a 1/4") marked with tape
to provide the countersink?

They are called screw buttons.

So you drilled countersunk holes to install screw buttons? Why didn't you
just use a dowel?

Okay you didn't mention using plug cutters earlier.


Hmmm, I wonder what I meant when I said:

"The next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes."

DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...



On Wednesday, August 10, 2016 at 2:54:09 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
Tekkie® posted for all of us...



DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...
Besides, as noted in my OP, the depth issue is related to depth of the
counter sink, not the screw hole. While a piece of tape would have *told*
me when I was at the correct depth, the homemade stop *ensured* that I
was at the proper depth. No more, no less, no whoops. Tape is flexible,
tape gets worn, tape get wrinkled.

With 20 holes to drill, a solid stop with a wide base (the washer) basically
eliminates any chance of drilling any of the holes too deep. I just finished
drilling them earlier this evening and the stop worked to perfection. The
next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes.

Okay enough of your nit picking crap...

Why didn't you use a correctly sized drill bit (say a 1/4") marked with tape
to provide the countersink?

They are called screw buttons.

So you drilled countersunk holes to install screw buttons? Why didn't you
just use a dowel?

Okay you didn't mention using plug cutters earlier.


Hmmm, I wonder what I meant when I said:

"The next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes."

IDK, you tell me.

--
Tekkie

On Wed, 10 Aug 2016 12:11:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Okay you didn't mention using plug cutters earlier.


Hmmm, I wonder what I meant when I said:

"The next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes."

The sharp edge of a wood chisel.
Shizzle dzzle.

On Wednesday, August 10, 2016 at 5:18:11 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 10 Aug 2016 12:11:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Okay you didn't mention using plug cutters earlier.


Hmmm, I wonder what I meant when I said:

"The next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes."

The sharp edge of a wood chisel.
Shizzle dzzle.

I use a flush cut saw. Sometimes using a chisel can cause the plug to
chip out just below the face of the stock. It is a lot quicker to use a
chisel, but all it takes is one chip to eat up all the time you save.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/600/153792.jpg

Oren posted for all of us...



On Wed, 10 Aug 2016 12:11:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Okay you didn't mention using plug cutters earlier.


Hmmm, I wonder what I meant when I said:

"The next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes."

The sharp edge of a wood chisel.
Shizzle dzzle.

Xactly

--
Tekkie