On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 3:32:38 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...
Besides, as noted in my OP, the depth issue is related to depth of the
counter sink, not the screw hole. While a piece of tape would have *told*
me when I was at the correct depth, the homemade stop *ensured* that I
was at the proper depth. No more, no less, no whoops. Tape is flexible,
tape gets worn, tape get wrinkled.

With 20 holes to drill, a solid stop with a wide base (the washer) basically
eliminates any chance of drilling any of the holes too deep. I just finished
drilling them earlier this evening and the stop worked to perfection. The
next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes.

Okay enough of your nit picking crap...

....ignored...


Why didn't you use a correctly sized drill bit (say a 1/4") marked with tape
to provide the countersink?

Why would I use one bit to drill the screw hole and a different bit to make
the counter sink? That seems just a tad inefficient to me when one tool can
do it one step.

I have already explained the reason for the depth stop vs. the tape. You
can go back and read that again if you would like.

They are called screw buttons.

No, they are called plugs. Buttons have a domed top and the top extends
above the surface of the wood. Plugs sit flush with the surface of the wood..
I am using plugs, cut from the same wood using a plug cutter. Once the grain
is aligned and the finish is applied, the plugs just about disappear.


So you drilled countersunk holes to install screw buttons?

Nope. If you read what I wrote above, it should all be quite clear by now.

Why didn't you just use a dowel?

Because a plug cutter will cut a tapered plug from the same wood, perfectly
sized for the countersink bit that was used and (almost) perfectly matched
to the surrounding wood.