I'm replacing a 3/4" tongue and groove rotted bath floor, and want to put in
a tile floor. I've read different things in different books (and on
different web sites) in terms of how to do the floor.

What I need to know is the appropriate thickness of plywood to use (and
grade), and thickness of backerboard. Is 3/4" plywood and 1/4" backerboard
more than I need? The studs are 16" on center.

My goal is to use the thinnest option that will still do a good job (I'd
rather pay a little more for thinner underlayment if needed) to minimize
some potential problems with toilet height, drum trap height, and clearance
on the bottom of the bath door.

Anything will be firmer than the old rotten floor, but I want to make sure
I'm not setting myself up for a lot of grout issues if the floor isn't firm
enough.

Thanks!
Keith

K Ruck wrote:
I'm replacing a 3/4" tongue and groove rotted bath floor, and want to put in
a tile floor. I've read different things in different books (and on
different web sites) in terms of how to do the floor.

What I need to know is the appropriate thickness of plywood to use (and
grade), and thickness of backerboard. Is 3/4" plywood and 1/4" backerboard
more than I need? The studs are 16" on center.

That will work, just make sure you use plenty of screw on both. I
use ring nails. Drywall screws break!

Rich
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Linux user #291570
Remove "nospam" to email

K Ruck wrote:
I'm replacing a 3/4" tongue and groove rotted bath floor, and want to put in
a tile floor. I've read different things in different books (and on
different web sites) in terms of how to do the floor.

What I need to know is the appropriate thickness of plywood to use (and
grade), and thickness of backerboard. Is 3/4" plywood and 1/4" backerboard
more than I need? The studs are 16" on center.


*That* is the minimum you need, not more than you need. Let this be
your guide.
http://www.ttmac.com/deflection_limitations.htm

What I need to know is the appropriate thickness of plywood to use (and
grade), and thickness of backerboard. Is 3/4" plywood and 1/4" backerboard
more than I need? The studs are 16" on center.

Ours is 3/4" "structurefloor" an engineered OSB type product which is
attached to the 16" OC 11.5" TJI's by screws and construction adhesive.
Over that, the tile guy glued and stapled (used almost 2 boxes ~10,000
staples) 3/8" ply and then tiled. In some of the $500K- 1M homes in the
area, the General has him use a 3/8" dense medium grained chipboard (not
MDF, Hardibacker or OSB) the name of which I can't recall right now, over
the 3/4 stuff. The stuff is dense alright but has little structural
strength. You can snap it with your hands. It runs about $ 7.00 a sheet so I
went with the ply for a few bucks more for the added strength.
Been in the house for over a year and it works for us.

BTW, Some of the "experts" here said the 3/8 wasn't adequate. I'm sure
they'll sound off here.

Rudy once more attempts justification when he wrote:



Ours is 3/4" "structurefloor" an engineered OSB type product which is
attached to the 16" OC 11.5" TJI's by screws and construction adhesive.
Over that, the tile guy glued and stapled (used almost 2 boxes ~10,000
staples) 3/8" ply and then tiled. In some of the $500K- 1M homes in the
area, the General has him use a 3/8" dense medium grained chipboard (not
MDF, Hardibacker or OSB) the name of which I can't recall right now, over
the 3/4 stuff. The stuff is dense alright but has little structural
strength. You can snap it with your hands. It runs about $ 7.00 a sheet so I
went with the ply for a few bucks more for the added strength.
Been in the house for over a year and it works for us.

Dear Rudy the Screwed homeowner,
Technically, you don't have a clue what you're talking about. Your
advice is flawed at best, and your ignorance shows every time you wail
about using plywood or chipboard as you attempt to justify the screwing
you got regarding your tile substrate.

For the OP
The purpose of an acceptable tile substrate is not to provide structural
strentgh. Structural strength is designed and built-in to the subfloor
prior to the finish floor substrate. The finish floor substrate needs
to supply an even, flat, and flex-free base for the tile or stone. The
TCA, tile manufacturers worldwide, and every engineer/ architect, tile
professional, etc, I've ever known or dealt with advises against using
chipboard, particle board, luan, most plywoods, etc for tile substrates.

For the screwed homeowner
$500K- 1M doesn't mean ****. To think that the price of the house (in
todays world) means one is guaranteed that non-inferior workmanship and/
or materials will be produced throughout the house is absurd. Once
again, your justification(s) for having an inferior tile substrate are
worthless.

You're developing quite an inferiorioty complex about the inferior
substrate your 'General' stuck you with Rudy. I bet we'll never here a
peep out of you around here when the grout starts cracking. If this is
a tract development, you and your neighbors will be screaming class
action law suit very soon.


BTW, Some of the "experts" here said the 3/8 wasn't adequate. I'm sure
they'll sound off here.



Always glad to help the ignorant, correct the morons that sound off
here, and support and add to those that give correct advice based upon
experience and knowledge of home building and repair. If that's an
'expert' then so be it and I am one. You're not.

Meantime, check out some decent attorneys and for pete's sake Rudy, quit
showing us your ass about this topic every time it comes up.

-end of conversation-

G Henslee wrote:
Rudy once more attempts justification when he wrote:



Ours is 3/4" "structurefloor" an engineered OSB type product which is
attached to the 16" OC 11.5" TJI's by screws and construction adhesive.
Over that, the tile guy glued and stapled (used almost 2 boxes ~10,000
staples) 3/8" ply and then tiled. In some of the $500K- 1M homes in
the area, the General has him use a 3/8" dense medium grained
chipboard (not MDF, Hardibacker or OSB) the name of which I can't
recall right now, over the 3/4 stuff. The stuff is dense alright but
has little structural strength. You can snap it with your hands. It
runs about $ 7.00 a sheet so I went with the ply for a few bucks more
for the added strength.
Been in the house for over a year and it works for us.


Dear Rudy the Screwed homeowner,
Technically, you don't have a clue what you're talking about. Your
advice is flawed at best, and your ignorance shows every time you wail
about using plywood or chipboard as you attempt to justify the screwing
you got regarding your tile substrate.

For the OP
The purpose of an acceptable tile substrate is not to provide structural
strentgh. Structural strength is designed and built-in to the subfloor
prior to the finish floor substrate. The finish floor substrate needs
to supply an even, flat, and flex-free base for the tile or stone. The
TCA, tile manufacturers worldwide, and every engineer/ architect, tile
professional, etc, I've ever known or dealt with advises against using
chipboard, particle board, luan, most plywoods, etc for tile substrates.

For the screwed homeowner
$500K- 1M doesn't mean ****. To think that the price of the house (in
todays world) means one is guaranteed that non-inferior workmanship and/
or materials will be produced throughout the house is absurd. Once
again, your justification(s) for having an inferior tile substrate are
worthless.

You're developing quite an inferiorioty complex about the inferior
substrate your 'General' stuck you with Rudy. I bet we'll never here a
peep out of you around here when the grout starts cracking. If this is
a tract development, you and your neighbors will be screaming class
action law suit very soon.


BTW, Some of the "experts" here said the 3/8 wasn't adequate. I'm sure
they'll sound off here.


Always glad to help the ignorant, correct the morons that sound off
here, and support and add to those that give correct advice based upon
experience and knowledge of home building and repair. If that's an
'expert' then so be it and I am one. You're not.

Meantime, check out some decent attorneys and for pete's sake Rudy, quit
showing us your ass about this topic every time it comes up.

-end of conversation-

geeee I hope I gave the right advice, would hate to get flamed by
you. hahaha ... I do this type of work and yes I have had to
replace bath floors which were installed wrong by Jose and Jos B. If
the floor is not sturdy the grout will crack. 3/4" and 1/4" hardy
should be ok if the floor joist are 16" on centers.

Rich
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Linux user #291570
Remove "nospam" to email

Evodawg wrote:
G Henslee wrote:

Rudy once more attempts justification when he wrote:



Ours is 3/4" "structurefloor" an engineered OSB type product which
is attached to the 16" OC 11.5" TJI's by screws and construction
adhesive.
Over that, the tile guy glued and stapled (used almost 2 boxes
~10,000 staples) 3/8" ply and then tiled. In some of the $500K- 1M
homes in the area, the General has him use a 3/8" dense medium
grained chipboard (not MDF, Hardibacker or OSB) the name of which I
can't recall right now, over the 3/4 stuff. The stuff is dense
alright but has little structural strength. You can snap it with your
hands. It runs about $ 7.00 a sheet so I went with the ply for a few
bucks more for the added strength.
Been in the house for over a year and it works for us.



Dear Rudy the Screwed homeowner,
Technically, you don't have a clue what you're talking about. Your
advice is flawed at best, and your ignorance shows every time you wail
about using plywood or chipboard as you attempt to justify the
screwing you got regarding your tile substrate.

For the OP
The purpose of an acceptable tile substrate is not to provide
structural strentgh. Structural strength is designed and built-in to
the subfloor prior to the finish floor substrate. The finish floor
substrate needs to supply an even, flat, and flex-free base for the
tile or stone. The TCA, tile manufacturers worldwide, and every
engineer/ architect, tile professional, etc, I've ever known or dealt
with advises against using chipboard, particle board, luan, most
plywoods, etc for tile substrates.

For the screwed homeowner
$500K- 1M doesn't mean ****. To think that the price of the house (in
todays world) means one is guaranteed that non-inferior workmanship
and/ or materials will be produced throughout the house is absurd.
Once again, your justification(s) for having an inferior tile
substrate are worthless.

You're developing quite an inferiorioty complex about the inferior
substrate your 'General' stuck you with Rudy. I bet we'll never here
a peep out of you around here when the grout starts cracking. If this
is a tract development, you and your neighbors will be screaming class
action law suit very soon.


BTW, Some of the "experts" here said the 3/8 wasn't adequate. I'm
sure they'll sound off here.


Always glad to help the ignorant, correct the morons that sound off
here, and support and add to those that give correct advice based upon
experience and knowledge of home building and repair. If that's an
'expert' then so be it and I am one. You're not.

Meantime, check out some decent attorneys and for pete's sake Rudy,
quit showing us your ass about this topic every time it comes up.

-end of conversation-


geeee I hope I gave the right advice, would hate to get flamed by you.
hahaha ... I do this type of work and yes I have had to replace bath
floors which were installed wrong by Jose and Jos B. If the floor is not
sturdy the grout will crack. 3/4" and 1/4" hardy should be ok if the
floor joist are 16" on centers.

Rich

No chance Rich. This other guy and his "I got screwed with it so it has
to be good" attitude doesn't cut it.

G Henslee wrote:
Evodawg wrote:

G Henslee wrote:

Rudy once more attempts justification when he wrote:



Ours is 3/4" "structurefloor" an engineered OSB type product which
is attached to the 16" OC 11.5" TJI's by screws and construction
adhesive.
Over that, the tile guy glued and stapled (used almost 2 boxes
~10,000 staples) 3/8" ply and then tiled. In some of the $500K- 1M
homes in the area, the General has him use a 3/8" dense medium
grained chipboard (not MDF, Hardibacker or OSB) the name of which I
can't recall right now, over the 3/4 stuff. The stuff is dense
alright but has little structural strength. You can snap it with
your hands. It runs about $ 7.00 a sheet so I went with the ply for
a few bucks more for the added strength.
Been in the house for over a year and it works for us.




Dear Rudy the Screwed homeowner,
Technically, you don't have a clue what you're talking about. Your
advice is flawed at best, and your ignorance shows every time you
wail about using plywood or chipboard as you attempt to justify the
screwing you got regarding your tile substrate.

For the OP
The purpose of an acceptable tile substrate is not to provide
structural strentgh. Structural strength is designed and built-in to
the subfloor prior to the finish floor substrate. The finish floor
substrate needs to supply an even, flat, and flex-free base for the
tile or stone. The TCA, tile manufacturers worldwide, and every
engineer/ architect, tile professional, etc, I've ever known or dealt
with advises against using chipboard, particle board, luan, most
plywoods, etc for tile substrates.

For the screwed homeowner
$500K- 1M doesn't mean ****. To think that the price of the house
(in todays world) means one is guaranteed that non-inferior
workmanship and/ or materials will be produced throughout the house
is absurd. Once again, your justification(s) for having an inferior
tile substrate are worthless.

You're developing quite an inferiorioty complex about the inferior
substrate your 'General' stuck you with Rudy. I bet we'll never here
a peep out of you around here when the grout starts cracking. If
this is a tract development, you and your neighbors will be screaming
class action law suit very soon.


BTW, Some of the "experts" here said the 3/8 wasn't adequate. I'm
sure they'll sound off here.


Always glad to help the ignorant, correct the morons that sound off
here, and support and add to those that give correct advice based
upon experience and knowledge of home building and repair. If that's
an 'expert' then so be it and I am one. You're not.

Meantime, check out some decent attorneys and for pete's sake Rudy,
quit showing us your ass about this topic every time it comes up.

-end of conversation-



geeee I hope I gave the right advice, would hate to get flamed by
you. hahaha ... I do this type of work and yes I have had to replace
bath floors which were installed wrong by Jose and Jos B. If the floor
is not sturdy the grout will crack. 3/4" and 1/4" hardy should be ok
if the floor joist are 16" on centers.

Rich


No chance Rich. This other guy and his "I got screwed with it so it has
to be good" attitude doesn't cut it.

Got cha, I came in late on the whole thread, so not sure what has
happened in the past. ; )


--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Linux user #291570
Remove "nospam" to email