So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my kitchen breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the new valve the wires touched, sparked and went dead. Apparently the washer wasn't on that circuit. Apparently. I finished connecting the terminals and water but when i hit the power button all the cycle lights turn on and it just humms. Hitting the start cycle has no effect. Anyone know what i borked?

On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 10:53:32 -0800 (PST), wrote:

So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my kitchen breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the new valve the wires touched, sparked and went dead. Apparently the washer wasn't on that circuit. Apparently. I finished connecting the terminals and water but when i hit the power button all the cycle lights turn on and it just humms. Hitting the start cycle has no effect. Anyone know what i borked?

My guess would be something really important and equally expensive.

wrote:
So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my kitchen breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the new valve the wires touched, sparked and went dead. Apparently the washer wasn't on that circuit. Apparently. I finished connecting the terminals and water but when i hit the power button all the cycle lights turn on and it just humms. Hitting the start cycle has no effect. Anyone know what i borked?

I think as a rule DW is all by itself on a separate circuit. Likewise
fridge too. Bad habit not double checking the power with a meter after
you turn the breaker off. My dish washer cord has a plug, I just unplug
it when I need to work on it.

Tony Hwang wrote:
wrote:
So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my
kitchen breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the new
valve the wires touched, sparked and went dead. Apparently the washer
wasn't on that circuit. Apparently. I finished connecting the
terminals and water but when i hit the power button all the cycle
lights turn on and it just humms. Hitting the start cycle has no
effect. Anyone know what i borked?

I think as a rule DW is all by itself on a separate circuit. Likewise
fridge too. Bad habit not double checking the power with a meter after
you turn the breaker off. My dish washer cord has a plug, I just unplug
it when I need to work on it.

I am afraid the control board got a hit. See if you can find any thing
on Youtube. We have a Bosch DW but different model. If you need
any parts, repairclinic is a good place to check.

On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 12:03:45 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:

wrote:
So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my kitchen breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the new valve the wires touched, sparked and went dead. Apparently the washer wasn't on that circuit. Apparently. I finished connecting the terminals and water but when i hit the power button all the cycle lights turn on and it just humms. Hitting the start cycle has no effect. Anyone know what i borked?

I think as a rule DW is all by itself on a separate circuit. Likewise
fridge too. Bad habit not double checking the power with a meter after
you turn the breaker off. My dish washer cord has a plug, I just unplug
it when I need to work on it.

Ditto on unplugging it

(it might reset after 10 minutes? (if the board isn't damaged))

On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 10:53:40 AM UTC-8, wrote:
So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my kitchen breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the new valve the wires touched, sparked and went dead. Apparently the washer wasn't on that circuit. Apparently. I finished connecting the terminals and water but when i hit the power button all the cycle lights turn on and it just humms. Hitting the start cycle has no effect. Anyone know what i borked?

Could that model number be a h and not a k?

Yeah. My fault. Shu53e05uc /14

On 2/18/2016 11:53 AM, wrote:
So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my kitchen
breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the new valve the
wires touched, sparked and went dead.

This doesn't quite make sense.

The dishwasher was NOT in the middle of a cycle, correct?
(even if it was still "plugged in").

So, there would be no reason for there to be "power"
(i.e., a voltage difference between the two wires)
to those connections. As such, no reason for a "spark".

(unless the valve has THREE terminals and an "open"
and "close" coil -- doubtful)

Were any of the wires GREEN (safety ground)?

Are you sure you didn't touch the chassis, instead?

Apparently the washer wasn't on that
circuit. Apparently. I finished connecting the terminals and water but when
i hit the power button all the cycle lights turn on and it just humms.
Hitting the start cycle has no effect. Anyone know what i borked?

You may have only broken the new valve; or the "driver" that turns
it on (i.e., supplies power to that coil).

It is possible that the unit is waiting for water that is never going
to come (because of one of the above problems).

Does the manual give you a "cheat sheet" to evaluate any error
codes? (I'm reasonably sure it IS indicating an error to you
but in a cryptic way)

On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 3:36:44 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
On 2/18/2016 11:53 AM, wrote:
So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my kitchen
breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the new valve the
wires touched, sparked and went dead.

This doesn't quite make sense.

The dishwasher was NOT in the middle of a cycle, correct?
(even if it was still "plugged in").

So, there would be no reason for there to be "power"
(i.e., a voltage difference between the two wires)
to those connections. As such, no reason for a "spark".

(unless the valve has THREE terminals and an "open"
and "close" coil -- doubtful)

Were any of the wires GREEN (safety ground)?

Are you sure you didn't touch the chassis, instead?

Apparently the washer wasn't on that
circuit. Apparently. I finished connecting the terminals and water but when
i hit the power button all the cycle lights turn on and it just humms.
Hitting the start cycle has no effect. Anyone know what i borked?

You may have only broken the new valve; or the "driver" that turns
it on (i.e., supplies power to that coil).

It is possible that the unit is waiting for water that is never going
to come (because of one of the above problems).

Does the manual give you a "cheat sheet" to evaluate any error
codes? (I'm reasonably sure it IS indicating an error to you
but in a cryptic way)

I agree o n the power it down for 10 minutes and see if that helps. Otherwise you've probably fried the main control board and those are often a hundred or more.

Don Y posted for all of us...


On 2/18/2016 11:53 AM, wrote:
So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my kitchen
breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the new valve the
wires touched, sparked and went dead.

This doesn't quite make sense.

The dishwasher was NOT in the middle of a cycle, correct?
(even if it was still "plugged in").

So, there would be no reason for there to be "power"
(i.e., a voltage difference between the two wires)
to those connections. As such, no reason for a "spark".

(unless the valve has THREE terminals and an "open"
and "close" coil -- doubtful)

Were any of the wires GREEN (safety ground)?

Are you sure you didn't touch the chassis, instead?


The OP didn't have the correct breaker off.

--
Tekkie

On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 13:42:08 -0800 (PST),
wrote:


I agree o n the power it down for 10 minutes and see if that helps.

James gang in NC are you on an EPA server? (We found that the
organization for IP address 134.67.179.232 is U.S. Environmental
Protection Agency in North Carolina, United States.)

Yes. Unplug the unit may let it reset, my ice maker does it as does a
GDO and irrigation controllers after a power flux/spike.

Data corrupts momentarily.

On 2/18/2016 2:42 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 3:36:44 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
On 2/18/2016 11:53 AM, wrote:
So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my
kitchen breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the new
valve the wires touched, sparked and went dead.

This doesn't quite make sense.

The dishwasher was NOT in the middle of a cycle, correct? (even if it was
still "plugged in").

So, there would be no reason for there to be "power" (i.e., a voltage
difference between the two wires) to those connections. As such, no
reason for a "spark".

(unless the valve has THREE terminals and an "open" and "close" coil --
doubtful)

Were any of the wires GREEN (safety ground)?

Are you sure you didn't touch the chassis, instead?

Apparently the washer wasn't on that circuit. Apparently. I finished
connecting the terminals and water but when i hit the power button all
the cycle lights turn on and it just humms. Hitting the start cycle has
no effect. Anyone know what i borked?

You may have only broken the new valve; or the "driver" that turns it on
(i.e., supplies power to that coil).

It is possible that the unit is waiting for water that is never going to
come (because of one of the above problems).

Does the manual give you a "cheat sheet" to evaluate any error codes?
(I'm reasonably sure it IS indicating an error to you but in a cryptic
way)

I agree o n the power it down for 10 minutes and see if that helps.
Otherwise you've probably fried the main control board and those are often a
hundred or more.

I want to understand the reported observation:
"the wires touched, sparked and went dead"
to better posit likely problems. IMO, there shouldn't have been
ANY potential ("voltage") across the coil -- unless it was
supposed to be ON. I can't understand why it would be ON if
it wasn't actually trying to run a cycle.

If, indeed, it was "off", then something else was responsible
for the sparks.

It is unusual for any modern device NOT to report some sort
of error information -- though the actual indication might
be obscure (count blinks, notice odd combinations of lights,
etc.). Error message/code gives you an idea of what the
device is "missing" (expecting but not detecting).

Don Y wrote:
On 2/18/2016 2:42 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 3:36:44 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
On 2/18/2016 11:53 AM, wrote:
So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my
kitchen breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the new
valve the wires touched, sparked and went dead.

This doesn't quite make sense.

The dishwasher was NOT in the middle of a cycle, correct? (even if it
was
still "plugged in").

So, there would be no reason for there to be "power" (i.e., a voltage
difference between the two wires) to those connections. As such, no
reason for a "spark".

(unless the valve has THREE terminals and an "open" and "close" coil --
doubtful)

Were any of the wires GREEN (safety ground)?

Are you sure you didn't touch the chassis, instead?

Apparently the washer wasn't on that circuit. Apparently. I finished
connecting the terminals and water but when i hit the power button all
the cycle lights turn on and it just humms. Hitting the start cycle has
no effect. Anyone know what i borked?

You may have only broken the new valve; or the "driver" that turns it on
(i.e., supplies power to that coil).

It is possible that the unit is waiting for water that is never going to
come (because of one of the above problems).

Does the manual give you a "cheat sheet" to evaluate any error codes?
(I'm reasonably sure it IS indicating an error to you but in a cryptic
way)

I agree o n the power it down for 10 minutes and see if that helps.
Otherwise you've probably fried the main control board and those are
often a
hundred or more.

I want to understand the reported observation:
"the wires touched, sparked and went dead"
to better posit likely problems. IMO, there shouldn't have been
ANY potential ("voltage") across the coil -- unless it was
supposed to be ON. I can't understand why it would be ON if
it wasn't actually trying to run a cycle.

If, indeed, it was "off", then something else was responsible
for the sparks.

It is unusual for any modern device NOT to report some sort
of error information -- though the actual indication might
be obscure (count blinks, notice odd combinations of lights,
etc.). Error message/code gives you an idea of what the
device is "missing" (expecting but not detecting).


Maybe one lead of the solenoid coil was hot. Who knows when logic board
IC is involved when this sort of thing happens.

On 2/18/2016 5:40 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Don Y wrote:
On 2/18/2016 2:42 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 3:36:44 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
On 2/18/2016 11:53 AM, wrote:
So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my
kitchen breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the new
valve the wires touched, sparked and went dead.

This doesn't quite make sense.

The dishwasher was NOT in the middle of a cycle, correct? (even if it
was
still "plugged in").

So, there would be no reason for there to be "power" (i.e., a voltage
difference between the two wires) to those connections. As such, no
reason for a "spark".

(unless the valve has THREE terminals and an "open" and "close" coil --
doubtful)

Were any of the wires GREEN (safety ground)?

Are you sure you didn't touch the chassis, instead?

Apparently the washer wasn't on that circuit. Apparently. I finished
connecting the terminals and water but when i hit the power button all
the cycle lights turn on and it just humms. Hitting the start cycle has
no effect. Anyone know what i borked?

You may have only broken the new valve; or the "driver" that turns it on
(i.e., supplies power to that coil).

It is possible that the unit is waiting for water that is never going to
come (because of one of the above problems).

Does the manual give you a "cheat sheet" to evaluate any error codes?
(I'm reasonably sure it IS indicating an error to you but in a cryptic
way)

I agree o n the power it down for 10 minutes and see if that helps.
Otherwise you've probably fried the main control board and those are
often a
hundred or more.

I want to understand the reported observation:
"the wires touched, sparked and went dead"
to better posit likely problems. IMO, there shouldn't have been
ANY potential ("voltage") across the coil -- unless it was
supposed to be ON. I can't understand why it would be ON if
it wasn't actually trying to run a cycle.

If, indeed, it was "off", then something else was responsible
for the sparks.

It is unusual for any modern device NOT to report some sort
of error information -- though the actual indication might
be obscure (count blinks, notice odd combinations of lights,
etc.). Error message/code gives you an idea of what the
device is "missing" (expecting but not detecting).

Maybe one lead of the solenoid coil was hot. Who knows when logic board IC is
involved when this sort of thing happens.

He claimed the leads touched. That implies that the other lead had a
"return path". I.e., there was potential ACROSS THE COIL at the instant
the spark was drawn. That should only happen if the dishwasher wanted
the coil to be energized. Which should only happen during a cycle!

Don Y wrote:
On 2/18/2016 5:40 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Don Y wrote:
On 2/18/2016 2:42 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 3:36:44 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
On 2/18/2016 11:53 AM, wrote:
So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my
kitchen breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the
new
valve the wires touched, sparked and went dead.

This doesn't quite make sense.

The dishwasher was NOT in the middle of a cycle, correct? (even if it
was
still "plugged in").

So, there would be no reason for there to be "power" (i.e., a voltage
difference between the two wires) to those connections. As such, no
reason for a "spark".

(unless the valve has THREE terminals and an "open" and "close"
coil --
doubtful)

Were any of the wires GREEN (safety ground)?

Are you sure you didn't touch the chassis, instead?

Apparently the washer wasn't on that circuit. Apparently. I finished
connecting the terminals and water but when i hit the power button
all
the cycle lights turn on and it just humms. Hitting the start
cycle has
no effect. Anyone know what i borked?

You may have only broken the new valve; or the "driver" that turns
it on
(i.e., supplies power to that coil).

It is possible that the unit is waiting for water that is never
going to
come (because of one of the above problems).

Does the manual give you a "cheat sheet" to evaluate any error codes?
(I'm reasonably sure it IS indicating an error to you but in a cryptic
way)

I agree o n the power it down for 10 minutes and see if that helps.
Otherwise you've probably fried the main control board and those are
often a
hundred or more.

I want to understand the reported observation:
"the wires touched, sparked and went dead"
to better posit likely problems. IMO, there shouldn't have been
ANY potential ("voltage") across the coil -- unless it was
supposed to be ON. I can't understand why it would be ON if
it wasn't actually trying to run a cycle.

If, indeed, it was "off", then something else was responsible
for the sparks.

It is unusual for any modern device NOT to report some sort
of error information -- though the actual indication might
be obscure (count blinks, notice odd combinations of lights,
etc.). Error message/code gives you an idea of what the
device is "missing" (expecting but not detecting).

Maybe one lead of the solenoid coil was hot. Who knows when logic
board IC is
involved when this sort of thing happens.

He claimed the leads touched. That implies that the other lead had a
"return path". I.e., there was potential ACROSS THE COIL at the instant
the spark was drawn. That should only happen if the dishwasher wanted
the coil to be energized. Which should only happen during a cycle!

Possible it was on wash/rinse cycle. Any cycle can be cancelled by
hitting reset button. Our DW is front control panel model.
Under the start button there is little marking, "reset 3secs." meaning
hold it down 3 secs. to reset after pushing power button. It is
mentioned in the owner's manual as far as our Bosch model is concerned.

On 2/18/2016 2:02 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 10:53:32 -0800 (PST), wrote:

So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my kitchen breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the new valve the wires touched, sparked and went dead. Apparently the washer wasn't on that circuit. Apparently. I finished connecting the terminals and water but when i hit the power button all the cycle lights turn on and it just humms. Hitting the start cycle has no effect. Anyone know what i borked?

My guess would be something really important and equally expensive.


Seriously good thing he didn't injure or kill
himself with the power being on. I don't know
dish washers well enough to be sure what got
fried. Best wishes, hope it's not "too" expensive.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 2/18/2016 1:53 PM, wrote:
So my inlet valve burst and i bought a replacement. Turned off my kitchen breaker, removed the old valve and as i was installing the new valve the wires touched, sparked and went dead. Apparently the washer wasn't on that circuit. Apparently. I finished connecting the terminals and water but when i hit the power button all the cycle lights turn on and it just humms. Hitting the start cycle has no effect. Anyone know what i borked?


Sorry to hear about the dish washer. I suspect
main board is the problem. Really sorry.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 2/18/2016 5:34 PM, Oren wrote:

Yes. Unplug the unit may let it reset, my ice maker does it as does a
GDO and irrigation controllers after a power flux/spike.

Data corrupts momentarily.


Absoloute data corrupts absoloutely.

This is comical because we're discussing
power corrupting a dish washer, here.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..