I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've
read different things about periodically training water heaters and I
don't know what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.
--
Visualize "Whirled Peas"

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 17:28:10 -0600, SeaNymph
wrote:

I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've
read different things about periodically training water heaters and I
don't know what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

Yes, at least once a year. Twice is better.

On 2/16/2016 6:28 PM, SeaNymph wrote:
I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've
read different things about periodically training water heaters and I
don't know what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

I've found that it's a good idea to drain the
sediment once a year or so. However, doing so
does not train the WH to do it by itself. You
have to do it for the WH.

Why do you heat hot water? Most folks have cold
water heaters.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 2/16/2016 5:50 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 17:28:10 -0600, SeaNymph
wrote:

I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've
read different things about periodically training water heaters and I
don't know what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

Yes, at least once a year. Twice is better.

And is this something that I can do or is it best left to the professionala?

On 2/16/2016 5:56 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 2/16/2016 6:28 PM, SeaNymph wrote:
I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've
read different things about periodically training water heaters and I
don't know what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

I've found that it's a good idea to drain the
sediment once a year or so. However, doing so
does not train the WH to do it by itself. You
have to do it for the WH.

Why do you heat hot water? Most folks have cold
water heaters.

Damn it. Can't hot water heaters learn?

As for the hot water, it's heated at certain times and then stays hot.
The thing doesn't heat water constantly.

On 2/16/2016 4:28 PM, SeaNymph wrote:
I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've read
different things about periodically training water heaters and I don't know
what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

How "hard" is your domestic water supply?

The "textbook" recommendations include:
- replacing the sacrificial anode (it "corrodes", bt design)
- draining the tank (mineral accumulations)
- "testing" the high temperature/pressure relief valve

But, almost all of these can find folks with associated
horror stories.

It's not possible to replace the anode in ours with a "stock"
anode (no clearance above the tank to withdraw and insert).
[though I think someone makes a "hinged" anode for this reason]

If the drain valve breaks (some are plastic!) or refuses to
reseal properly (drip, drip, drip), you're faced with replacing
it. You may not be able to find a suitable replacement
(many tanks are glass lined; metal into glass is a big FAIL)

Likewise, testing the TPR valve can leave you with a valve that
no longer closes. In addition to depriving you of future
hot water, you may also end up with *no* water (if there is
not a shutoff on the intake and outtake of the water heater
so you can isolate it from the COLD water supply!)

Bottom line: don't do any of these the day before you have
house guests scheduled to arrive!

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...

Why do you heat hot water? Most folks have cold
water heaters.


I all ways heat the hot water. Who wants the cold water to come out hot.

On 2/16/2016 6:06 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/16/2016 4:28 PM, SeaNymph wrote:
I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've
read
different things about periodically training water heaters and I don't
know
what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

How "hard" is your domestic water supply?

The "textbook" recommendations include:
- replacing the sacrificial anode (it "corrodes", bt design)
- draining the tank (mineral accumulations)
- "testing" the high temperature/pressure relief valve

But, almost all of these can find folks with associated
horror stories.

It's not possible to replace the anode in ours with a "stock"
anode (no clearance above the tank to withdraw and insert).
[though I think someone makes a "hinged" anode for this reason]

If the drain valve breaks (some are plastic!) or refuses to
reseal properly (drip, drip, drip), you're faced with replacing
it. You may not be able to find a suitable replacement
(many tanks are glass lined; metal into glass is a big FAIL)

Likewise, testing the TPR valve can leave you with a valve that
no longer closes. In addition to depriving you of future
hot water, you may also end up with *no* water (if there is
not a shutoff on the intake and outtake of the water heater
so you can isolate it from the COLD water supply!)

Bottom line: don't do any of these the day before you have
house guests scheduled to arrive!

We're on a well so all of our water is softened. No hard water here.

The water heater is heavily insulated.

wrote in message news
On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 17:28:10 -0600, SeaNymph
wrote:

I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've
read different things about periodically training water heaters and I
don't know what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

Yes, at least once a year. Twice is better.

I have always heard this and never done it. Unless there's something I don't know, which is very likely, the sediment would be in the bottom. If the valve is in the bottom, sediment would flow out first. If the valve is 6-inch above the bottom like mine and unless there is a pipe inside taking water from the very bottom of the tank, the sediment would never drain out.

I did test the pressure relief valve every few months on a previous water heater as recommended, starting when it was a couple of years old. Within a couple of years it got so it wouldn't reseat completely and always dripped after that.

Latest water heater sits in the corner of the garage with a drain pan underneath that is plumbed outside, and the relieve vent plumbed to outside. I'm not touching it until it stops working or blows up.

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 17:28:10 -0600, SeaNymph
wrote:

I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've
read different things about periodically training water heaters and I
don't know what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.


I used to drain mine but it didn't seem to make any difference in how
long they lasted. What I found works best is to buy the cheapest tank
you can get, then turn the temperature down to about 125. At lower
temperatures it seems that far less sediment precipitates out and the
tank lasts much longer. The "six year" tanks typically last 10 years
or more at the lower temperature. With all the time you saved over
the years not bothering to drain them you have saved up enough time to
spend the half day just replacing it once a decade.

"SeaNymph" wrote in message
...
On 2/16/2016 5:50 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 17:28:10 -0600, SeaNymph

And is this something that I can do or is it best left to the
professionala?


It is very complicated. AOn the side near the bottom is what looks like a
water spicket. You cut off the breaker if electric powered or cut to the
pilot light or off if gas. Cut off the water going to it. Then you hook up
a water hose to it or some other way to get rid of the water and open the
valve. On top is a relief valve that you want to open so air can get into
the water heater. Sometimes the relef valve will not reseat and you have to
replace it.
Then fill the heater back up after cutting off the drain valve and apply
the power or gas. You may want to turn on the hot water valve at a sink to
help the air get out of the system.

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in
message news:7eadnfXAiqZ2IF7LnZ2dnUU7-I have always heard this and never
done it. Unless there's something I don't know, which is very likely, the
sediment would be in the bottom. If the valve is in the bottom, sediment
would flow out first. If the valve is 6-inch above the bottom like mine and
unless there is a pipe inside taking water from the very bottom of the tank,
the sediment would never drain out.

I did test the pressure relief valve every few months on a previous water
heater as recommended, starting when it was a couple of years old. Within
a couple of years it got so it wouldn't reseat completely and always
dripped after that.

Latest water heater sits in the corner of the garage with a drain pan
underneath that is plumbed outside, and the relieve vent plumbed to
outside. I'm not touching it until it stops working or blows up.

I have never drained a water heater either. Heard it is good for them,but
never did . Last house I lived in for 35 years and had to replace the
heater one time due to a leak. Bought this house about 10 years ago with an
electric heater and never touched it either.

On 02/16/2016 06:09 PM, SeaNymph wrote:
Xass lined; metal into glass is a big FAIL)

Likewise, testing the TPR valve can leave you with a valve that
no longer closes. In addition to depriving you of future
hot water, you may also end up with *no* water (if there is
not a shutoff on the intake and outtake of the water heater
so you can isolate it from the COLD water supply!)

Bottom line: don't do any of these the day before you have
house guests scheduled to arrive!

We're on a well so all of our water is softened. No hard water here.

The water heater is heavily insulated.



Water here is soft. Heater that was here when I bought the house lasted
30 years, without ever being drained.


The once or twice a year advice would be for hard water

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 17:28:10 -0600, SeaNymph
wrote:

I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've
read different things about periodically training water heaters and I
don't know what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

If you mean "draining" routinely, I don't. Even with hard water using
a water softener. My personal experience was it caused more problems
and/or leaked soon after. Don't tinker with it. Replace upon failure.

If you keep a routine schedule that may not happen with a new install.

YMMV

On 2/16/2016 7:04 PM, SeaNymph wrote:
I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

Yes, at least once a year. Twice is better.

And is this something that I can do or is it best left to the
professionala?


Many HO do their own water heater drains. You
can likely find instructions on the web. In
my case, the WH drain points out the cabinet
door, out to the ground. Once or so each year
I open the valve, and let the water and
sediment blow out to the ground.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 2/16/2016 7:05 PM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/16/2016 5:56 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 2/16/2016 6:28 PM, SeaNymph wrote:
I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've
read different things about periodically training water heaters and I
don't know what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

I've found that it's a good idea to drain the
sediment once a year or so. However, doing so
does not train the WH to do it by itself. You
have to do it for the WH.

Why do you heat hot water? Most folks have cold
water heaters.

Damn it. Can't hot water heaters learn?

As for the hot water, it's heated at certain times and then stays hot.
The thing doesn't heat water constantly.


Splendid! How did you train it periodically to
heat?

As to draining. The drain valve is generally
about two inches from the bottom of the tank.
They often have garden hose thread. You may
wish to run a hose from the WH to a drain.
The valves some times stick closed, as few
people drain them as needed.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 19:34:13 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:

would flow out first. If the valve is 6-inch above the bottom like mine and
unless there is a pipe inside taking water from the very bottom of the tank,
the sediment would never drain out.


The 6 inches is on the OUTER SHELL of the heater. It's probably 1 to 2
inches above the bottom on the actual tank (inside that shell). Most of
the crud will come out, but not all of it. If you drain the tank, then
turn on the cold water while the drain valve is still open, more crud
will come out.

If you live in an area where there is excessive lime (calcium) in the
water, you may never get it all out, especially if you have not drained
it in years.

Not only does this prolong the life of the heater, but it saves energy.
A gas heater has the flame under the tank. If there is 6" of crud in the
bottom of the tank, you're heating that crud, not the water. But soem of
the heat will transfer thru the crud and eventually heat the water. But
a lot of the heat is wasted and goes up the chimney.

I once saw a water heater that was half filled with lime. I'm not
exaggerating either. After the heater was replaced, the guy took off the
shell, then sawed the tank in half. A 5ft tall tank had over 2 feet of
lime in it. It was an elec, heater. The bottom element never touched
water and was all twisted and deformed (and electrically dead) from
operating in that lime. They could not even take one shower anymore
before the hot water ran out.

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 17:26:19 -0700, "Ashton Crusher"
wrote:


I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.


I used to drain mine but it didn't seem to make any difference in how
long they lasted. What I found works best is to buy the cheapest tank
you can get, then turn the temperature down to about 125. At lower
temperatures it seems that far less sediment precipitates out and the
tank lasts much longer. The "six year" tanks typically last 10 years
or more at the lower temperature. With all the time you saved over

TIME?
How much time does it take to connect a garden hose, run it to a floor
drain, shut off the flame or electric, and the cold water valve. The
draining itself can happen while you cook supper or watch a movie. Then
you close that drain valve, remove the hose and turn back on the heating
source and cold water.

10 minutes worth of time at most....

You probably spend at least 10 minutes daily brushing your teeth and
shaving!

the years not bothering to drain them you have saved up enough time to
spend the half day just replacing it once a decade.

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 19:06:20 -0600, philo wrote:


The once or twice a year advice would be for hard water

Since women like things HARD, does that mean they like HARD WATER?

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 17:26:19 -0700, "Ashton Crusher"
wrote:

The "six year" tanks typically last 10 years
or more at the lower temperature. With all the time you saved over
the years not bothering to drain them you have saved up enough time to
spend the half day just replacing it once a decade.

I no longer buy water heaters with long warranties. Six year is fine.
A 12 year warranty will fail early in my experience. Put it in and
leave it alone.

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 18:56:26 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:


Why do you heat hot water?

To make it hotter?

On Tuesday, February 16, 2016 at 7:06:58 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
(many tanks are glass lined; metal into glass is a big FAIL)


I think "glass" is most likely "fiberglas." Can't imagine transporting a real glass tank without breaking it.

On 2/16/2016 6:06 PM, philo wrote:
Water here is soft. Heater that was here when I bought the house lasted 30
years, without ever being drained.

The once or twice a year advice would be for hard water

OUr water is all ground sourced -- much "blended" from CAP.
A home without a softener will have a crust around each
faucet aerator in short order. It will be removed only by
*breaking* the hardened deposits (you can't "scrub it off").

Our last water heater lasted ~20+ years without being
regularly drained. By the time it failed, you could hear a
large "boulder" thumping around inside (impairs efficiency).

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 20:10:53 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Tuesday, February 16, 2016 at 7:06:58 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
(many tanks are glass lined; metal into glass is a big FAIL)


I think "glass" is most likely "fiberglas." Can't imagine transporting a real glass tank without breaking it.

Absolutely, at least for Sears and AOSmith.

I cut one of mine open and there was a layer like vinyl, about 1/4",
clearish, a little whitish, translucent. I had to work to pry it away
from metal shell and it bent, with much more effort, like a uninflated
basketball. Eventually I got parts of it inside out, but even then,
there wasn't a chance of its breaking or leaking .

Used a reciprocating saw to cut it open. I'm too cheap to replace
worn blades and eventually there were no teeth, but it cut almost as
fast as before. Cut it in about 5 or 10 pieces and threw it away
with the trash.

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 17:28:10 -0600, SeaNymph
wrote:

I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've
read different things about periodically training water heaters and I
don't know what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

At most it's only needed by some people. The notion that everyone
should do it is poppycock.

I've been here 33 years, never done it. Never had any problem
bedcuase of it. Last time this was discussed there were a lot of
stories of valves that couldnt' be fully closed after they were once
opened, especially if they were plastic.

First electric WH leaked after 15 years (counting 4 years before I
bought hte house.)

But I got mixed up, I think, and decided after 10 years that one WH
was broken when it probably just needed a new thermostat or heater.
Cut it open and found only a tablespoon of sediment in the bottom.
Only 1/4" high. Since the heating element was a few inches higher
than the bottom, it would have taken over 250 years before the
sediment reached the element. If it does't reach the element, it
causes no harm.

I have "city water" that comes ultimately from one of 3 reservoirs
around here.

You would be better off asking neighbors with wells in the same
aquifer and similar water softening what happens when or IF they drain
theirs. Do they actually get sediment coming out? How much? Unless
there is a lot, there is no point to doing this.

In the last conversation, with different people maybe, most people
were against it.

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 17:28:10 -0600, SeaNymph
wrote:

I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've
read different things about periodically training water heaters and I
don't know what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

And if for some reason you do let the water out, turn the electricity
off first. If it's empty and the heater goes on, it wiill burn out
within a few minutes. Elements can be replaced, but why let it
happen.

Kibble works well for training. Don't give it the kibble until the
water is actually hot.

On 2/16/2016 9:10 PM, TimR wrote:
On Tuesday, February 16, 2016 at 7:06:58 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
(many tanks are glass lined; metal into glass is a big FAIL)


I think "glass" is most likely "fiberglas." Can't imagine transporting a real glass tank without breaking it.

No, it's real glass (fused to the metal tank).

On 2/16/2016 7:31 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
It is very complicated. AOn the side near the bottom is what looks like a
water spicket. You cut off the breaker if electric powered or cut to the
pilot light or off if gas. Cut off the water going to it. Then you hook up
a water hose to it or some other way to get rid of the water and open the
valve. On top is a relief valve that you want to open so air can get into
the water heater. Sometimes the relef valve will not reseat and you have to
replace it.
Then fill the heater back up after cutting off the drain valve and apply
the power or gas. You may want to turn on the hot water valve at a sink to
help the air get out of the system.


Why so complicated? Hook a hose from the
spigot to a drain. Open the valve, let
the water pressure blow some sediment out.
Don't touch the power or TP valve.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 23:51:24 -0500, Micky
wrote:

Cut it open and found only a tablespoon of sediment in the bottom.
Only 1/4" high. Since the heating element was a few inches higher
than the bottom, it would have taken over 250 years before the
sediment reached the element. If it does't reach the element, it
causes no harm.

* INCORRECT *

If the element becomes encased in sediment, it develops hot spots, which
causes it to fail, as well as distort and deform. I've seen it more than
once. Sometimes you cant even remove them, because the element is so
stuck in the sediment, as well as deformed, that it wont come out of the
tank.

In YOUR case it might take 250 years, but I know one nearby town on
"city water" where a water heater becomes half full of lime sediment
(sludge) in about 3 years. I have helped several people replace their WH
and it's almost shocking how bad they are. The plumbers in that town
make a lot of money just replacing WHs.

Actually, my WH came from a house that was being demolished. The guy
doing the demo needed help and posted an ad. I inquired and got hired.
The pay was lousy, but he said I could have any lumber I wanted to
salvage. I stocked up on lumber, took down the whole garage and saved
all of it, and got quite a bit from the house too. I noticed an electric
water heater which was dated and only 2 years old. He told me to take it
if I wanted it. I did. When I got it home, it was 1/3 full of lime. But
I was in need of a WH, so I removed the elements, the drain valve,
relief valve, and of course the pipes were removed. I laid it on it's
side (on my lawn), with some 4x4s under it, and with the element holes
down. I stuck my garden hose in it and rocked it back and forth. That
lime just fell out in chunks, and when I was done, I had to rake it up
from my lawn. I filled 1 - 1/2 five gallon pails with that lime.

I replaced the deformed lower element, and put it back together and had
a good (almost new) WH, for the price of one element. I've been using it
for 3 or 4 years now, and it works fine.

I have a well, so I dont have that lousy city water with all it's lime.
My water is kind of hard and leaves an orange ring in the toilet (iron),
but aside from a little extra scrubbing of the toilet, it's not a
problem.

On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 02:30:35 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote in

Why so complicated? Hook a hose from the
spigot to a drain. Open the valve, let
the water pressure blow some sediment out.
Don't touch the power or TP valve.

+1. No need to drain-to-empty. All you need to be doing is flushing
a few gallons out the bottom to remove the sediment.
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
newspapers delivered to your door every morning.

On 2/16/2016 7:21 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 2/16/2016 7:05 PM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/16/2016 5:56 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 2/16/2016 6:28 PM, SeaNymph wrote:
I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've
read different things about periodically training water heaters and I
don't know what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

I've found that it's a good idea to drain the
sediment once a year or so. However, doing so
does not train the WH to do it by itself. You
have to do it for the WH.

Why do you heat hot water? Most folks have cold
water heaters.

Damn it. Can't hot water heaters learn?

As for the hot water, it's heated at certain times and then stays hot.
The thing doesn't heat water constantly.


Splendid! How did you train it periodically to
heat?

As to draining. The drain valve is generally
about two inches from the bottom of the tank.
They often have garden hose thread. You may
wish to run a hose from the WH to a drain.
The valves some times stick closed, as few
people drain them as needed.

I didn't have to train it, it came pre-trained. I think that's a
function of the type of water heater it is. Costs me almost nothing to
use it because it's set to only heat water during off peaks times.

On 2/16/2016 7:33 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 19:06:20 -0600, philo wrote:


The once or twice a year advice would be for hard water

Since women like things HARD, does that mean they like HARD WATER?

No

On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 05:16:40 -0600, CRNG
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 02:30:35 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote in

Why so complicated? Hook a hose from the
spigot to a drain. Open the valve, let
the water pressure blow some sediment out.
Don't touch the power or TP valve.

+1. No need to drain-to-empty. All you need to be doing is flushing
a few gallons out the bottom to remove the sediment.

Depends a lot on the water heater. I might consider draining an
electric heater, but have found it a total waste of time on gas - but
then I buy the better heater with the "turbulator tube" that does not
allow any sediment to build up.

I have not been following the thread - so this may have been mentioned
- but the "drain valve" on MOST water heaters is so pitiful that even
if you drained it monthly it would never last the life of the water
heater. Many fail the first time they are used. Cheap chinese plastic
crap. That is one more difference between cheap and better quality
heaters. The good ones get rebuildable brass drain valves.

On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 1:07:06 AM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
On 2/16/2016 9:10 PM, TimR wrote:
On Tuesday, February 16, 2016 at 7:06:58 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
(many tanks are glass lined; metal into glass is a big FAIL)


I think "glass" is most likely "fiberglas." Can't imagine transporting a real glass tank without breaking it.

No, it's real glass (fused to the metal tank).

Huh, you may be right.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyIjwMdD1JY

On Tuesday, February 16, 2016 at 7:06:58 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
On 2/16/2016 4:28 PM, SeaNymph wrote:
I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've read
different things about periodically training water heaters and I don't know
what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

How "hard" is your domestic water supply?

The "textbook" recommendations include:
- replacing the sacrificial anode (it "corrodes", bt design)
- draining the tank (mineral accumulations)
- "testing" the high temperature/pressure relief valve

But, almost all of these can find folks with associated
horror stories.

It's not possible to replace the anode in ours with a "stock"
anode (no clearance above the tank to withdraw and insert).
[though I think someone makes a "hinged" anode for this reason]

If the drain valve breaks (some are plastic!) or refuses to
reseal properly (drip, drip, drip), you're faced with replacing
it. You may not be able to find a suitable replacement
(many tanks are glass lined; metal into glass is a big FAIL)

Likewise, testing the TPR valve can leave you with a valve that
no longer closes. In addition to depriving you of future
hot water, you may also end up with *no* water (if there is
not a shutoff on the intake and outtake of the water heater
so you can isolate it from the COLD water supply!)

Bottom line: don't do any of these the day before you have
house guests scheduled to arrive!

+1

If you're planning on periodically draining it, I'd replace the
cheap drain valve with a quality one at time of installation.

Anode replacement, not sure what to do. One theory is that
checking and replacing it will prolong the life of the tank.
The other is that the anode is good for the life of the tank,
and even if you do replace it, it won't do much to extend the
life of the tank, because it's going to fail anyway from other
causes. Probably depends a lot on the water you actually have
too.

On 2/17/2016 6:22 AM, TimR wrote:
On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 1:07:06 AM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
On 2/16/2016 9:10 PM, TimR wrote:
On Tuesday, February 16, 2016 at 7:06:58 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
(many tanks are glass lined; metal into glass is a big FAIL)


I think "glass" is most likely "fiberglas." Can't imagine transporting a real glass tank without breaking it.

No, it's real glass (fused to the metal tank).

Huh, you may be right.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyIjwMdD1JY

Now, imagine trying to remove -- for the purpose of repair -- something that
screws *into* a hole MANUFACTURED in that "glass bowl"... without cracking
the glass (which won't cause it to leak, in itself, but *will* eventually
defeat the purpose of the glass (preventing corrosion of the supporting metal)
and cause a premature failure.

The same is true of the temperature/pressure relief valve on the top of
the tank (and the sacrificial anode which screws in from above).

I.e., the SUGGESTED maintenance activities all pose significant risk.

wrote in message ...
On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 05:16:40 -0600, CRNG
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 02:30:35 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote in

Why so complicated? Hook a hose from the
spigot to a drain. Open the valve, let
the water pressure blow some sediment out.
Don't touch the power or TP valve.

+1. No need to drain-to-empty. All you need to be doing is flushing
a few gallons out the bottom to remove the sediment.

Depends a lot on the water heater. I might consider draining an
electric heater, but have found it a total waste of time on gas - but
then I buy the better heater with the "turbulator tube" that does not
allow any sediment to build up.

I have not been following the thread - so this may have been mentioned
- but the "drain valve" on MOST water heaters is so pitiful that even
if you drained it monthly it would never last the life of the water
heater. Many fail the first time they are used. Cheap chinese plastic
crap. That is one more difference between cheap and better quality
heaters. The good ones get rebuildable brass drain valves.

Ditto to that. A neighbor had a leaking water heater a few years ago. I remember having a hard time opening the plastic valve without risking breaking it. Mfr probably saved $10 cost.

On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 9:45:53 AM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
On 2/17/2016 6:22 AM, TimR wrote:
On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 1:07:06 AM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
On 2/16/2016 9:10 PM, TimR wrote:
On Tuesday, February 16, 2016 at 7:06:58 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
(many tanks are glass lined; metal into glass is a big FAIL)


I think "glass" is most likely "fiberglas." Can't imagine transporting a real glass tank without breaking it.

No, it's real glass (fused to the metal tank).

Huh, you may be right.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyIjwMdD1JY

Now, imagine trying to remove -- for the purpose of repair -- something that
screws *into* a hole MANUFACTURED in that "glass bowl"... without cracking
the glass (which won't cause it to leak, in itself, but *will* eventually


Did you look at the video? It's not a glass bowl. It's a glassy coating equivalent to a powder coat. Huge tanks are routinely assembled by bolting them together. Cracking the glass is not an issue.

On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 12:07:06 AM UTC-6, Don Y wrote:
On 2/16/2016 9:10 PM, TimR wrote:
On Tuesday, February 16, 2016 at 7:06:58 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
(many tanks are glass lined; metal into glass is a big FAIL)


I think "glass" is most likely "fiberglas." Can't imagine transporting a real glass tank without breaking it.

No, it's real glass (fused to the metal tank).

This is "commonly" known as "ceramic" coating not "glass". இ_இ

On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 9:54:56 AM UTC-6, TimR wrote:

Did you look at the video? It's not a glass bowl. It's a glassy coating equivalent to a powder coat.

A "powder coat" would not equate with a 1600 deg. ceramic coating.