When SWMBO and I were leaving home this AM (Late for where we were going
as usual.) I pulled the car out of the garage and pushed the button on
the door opener remote in the car.

We watched the door closing smoothly, but about rive inches from full
down it reversed direction and went back up. Another try produced the
same results.

We had about 8 inches of wet snow here in Red Sox Nation yesterday, so I
jumped out of the car and went looking for some snow or ice that the
door might be striking near the ground and reversing in response to
"overload."

I couldn't find spot like that. I tried adding my strength to the
opener's as the door was coming down by pushing downwards on the outside
door handle. No luck, the opener still reversed close to fully closed.

I finally went inside the garage and watched the door as it was
descending. And there it was, a dead tree leaf stuck to the bottom edge
of the door and extending inwards enough to interrupt the photoelectric
safety beam and trigger the opener's reversing.

Pulled that dead leaf off and Bob's your uncle, all's well again.

I've only had photoelectric safeties on the garage doors for a couple of
months as that's when I replaced the two 30 year old Craftsman openers
which were given up their ghosts with brand new Craftsman openers which
came with photoelectric safety stuff I added when changing out the openers.

That photoelectric stuff wasn't around when I installed the original
openers, so I never really had any experience with it and didn't think
of it at first as being the cause of the door reversing near fully
closed. I know better now.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Saturday, February 6, 2016 at 12:51:31 PM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
When SWMBO and I were leaving home this AM (Late for where we were going
as usual.) I pulled the car out of the garage and pushed the button on
the door opener remote in the car.

We watched the door closing smoothly, but about rive inches from full
down it reversed direction and went back up. Another try produced the
same results.

We had about 8 inches of wet snow here in Red Sox Nation yesterday, so I
jumped out of the car and went looking for some snow or ice that the
door might be striking near the ground and reversing in response to
"overload."

I couldn't find spot like that. I tried adding my strength to the
opener's as the door was coming down by pushing downwards on the outside
door handle. No luck, the opener still reversed close to fully closed.

I finally went inside the garage and watched the door as it was
descending. And there it was, a dead tree leaf stuck to the bottom edge
of the door and extending inwards enough to interrupt the photoelectric
safety beam and trigger the opener's reversing.

Pulled that dead leaf off and Bob's your uncle, all's well again.

I've only had photoelectric safeties on the garage doors for a couple of
months as that's when I replaced the two 30 year old Craftsman openers
which were given up their ghosts with brand new Craftsman openers which
came with photoelectric safety stuff I added when changing out the openers.

That photoelectric stuff wasn't around when I installed the original
openers, so I never really had any experience with it and didn't think
of it at first as being the cause of the door reversing near fully
closed. I know better now.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

You'll find that's very common, a leaf or similar is all it takes.
Happens here couple times a year. One thing I do like about the
photoelectric ones is that they also turn the opener light on
when you break the beam. That's nice when you've had the door
open, been outside at night, then re-enter the garage.

Brass Rat 78, 6-1 here too, BTW.

On 2/6/2016 12:51 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:



I've only had photoelectric safeties on the garage doors for a couple of
months as that's when I replaced the two 30 year old Craftsman openers
which were given up their ghosts with brand new Craftsman openers which
came with photoelectric safety stuff I added when changing out the openers.

That photoelectric stuff wasn't around when I installed the original
openers, so I never really had any experience with it and didn't think
of it at first as being the cause of the door reversing near fully
closed. I know better now.

Jeff


Mine are mounted about a foot apart up in the rafters. So far, no leaves.

On Sat, 6 Feb 2016 13:28:50 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 2/6/2016 12:51 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:



I've only had photoelectric safeties on the garage doors for a couple of
months as that's when I replaced the two 30 year old Craftsman openers
which were given up their ghosts with brand new Craftsman openers which
came with photoelectric safety stuff I added when changing out the openers.

That photoelectric stuff wasn't around when I installed the original
openers, so I never really had any experience with it and didn't think
of it at first as being the cause of the door reversing near fully
closed. I know better now.

Jeff


Mine are mounted about a foot apart up in the rafters. So far, no leaves.


There are new openers (Marin Doors) that eliminated the photo cells.
Everything is in the power head, which includes automatic up/down
force, safety features, etc. They've been around a few years now.
Invented by the family owned company.

On 02/06/2016 12:28 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/6/2016 12:51 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
....

I've only had photoelectric safeties on the garage doors for a couple of
months as that's when I replaced the two 30 year old Craftsman openers
....

Mine are mounted about a foot apart up in the rafters. So far, no leaves.

Ditto excepting there's a wrap around them to keep the stinkin' millers
(army cutworm moths that are always a nuisance every spring here) from
flitting in between...

--

On Sat, 6 Feb 2016 12:51:28 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:


When SWMBO and I were leaving home this AM (Late for where we were going
as usual.) I pulled the car out of the garage and pushed the button on
the door opener remote in the car.

We watched the door closing smoothly, but about rive inches from full
down it reversed direction and went back up. Another try produced the
same results.

We had about 8 inches of wet snow here in Red Sox Nation yesterday, so I
jumped out of the car and went looking for some snow or ice that the
door might be striking near the ground and reversing in response to
"overload."

I couldn't find spot like that. I tried adding my strength to the
opener's as the door was coming down by pushing downwards on the outside

If this would work, wouldn't it be a way to kill the neighbor boy and
make it look like an accident?

door handle. No luck, the opener still reversed close to fully closed.

I finally went inside the garage and watched the door as it was
descending. And there it was, a dead tree leaf stuck to the bottom edge
of the door and extending inwards enough to interrupt the photoelectric
safety beam and trigger the opener's reversing.

Pulled that dead leaf off and Bob's your uncle, all's well again.

I've only had photoelectric safeties on the garage doors for a couple of
months as that's when I replaced the two 30 year old Craftsman openers
which were given up their ghosts with brand new Craftsman openers which
came with photoelectric safety stuff I added when changing out the openers.

That photoelectric stuff wasn't around when I installed the original
openers, so I never really had any experience with it and didn't think
of it at first as being the cause of the door reversing near fully
closed. I know better now.

That's good.

Jeff

On 2/6/2016 10:51 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
That photoelectric stuff wasn't around when I installed the original openers,
so I never really had any experience with it and didn't think of it at first as
being the cause of the door reversing near fully closed. I know better now.

IME, the photocells aren't worth their cost. They really only detect things
that are ON the garage floor IN the path of the beam.

E.g., a kids wagon or bicycle typically won't trip the detector (the light
shines under or through). The same is true of vehicles (unless their front
or rear axles are in the path.

Openers that sense closing force (reversing when the feel "resistance")
also have too heavy of a hand in sensing (i.e., they'd crease the hood
of a vehicle parked beneath it). The door mechanism would have to be
critically damped to make them practical (at very low forces).

Don Y wrote:
On 2/6/2016 10:51 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
That photoelectric stuff wasn't around when I installed the original
openers,
so I never really had any experience with it and didn't think of it at
first as
being the cause of the door reversing near fully closed. I know better
now.

IME, the photocells aren't worth their cost. They really only detect
things
that are ON the garage floor IN the path of the beam.

E.g., a kids wagon or bicycle typically won't trip the detector (the light
shines under or through). The same is true of vehicles (unless their front
or rear axles are in the path.

Openers that sense closing force (reversing when the feel "resistance")
also have too heavy of a hand in sensing (i.e., they'd crease the hood
of a vehicle parked beneath it). The door mechanism would have to be
critically damped to make them practical (at very low forces).

I agree with everything you say Don, and I am certainly aware that a lot
of those photoelectric sensors end up being mounted on the garage ceiling.

Probably a lot of them are up there because the homeowner who installed
the opener was too lazy to string and fasten the leads from the opener's
location to the both sides of the bottom of the door frame and
sometimes might also have to add a couple of pieces of wood to mount the
units on so they were located properly. (Like I had to.)

But, since my luck is so bad that if someone left me a cemetery in their
will, people would stop dying, I just didn't want to risk the remote
possibility that someone would get seriously injured in a freak accident
being smashed by the door while it was closing and I'd get nailed for
deliberately ignoring the installation instructions. So, I installed
them "the right way" and will put up with whatever minor annoyances they
may cause me in the future.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

"Don Y" wrote in message
...
IME, the photocells aren't worth their cost. They really only detect
things
that are ON the garage floor IN the path of the beam.

E.g., a kids wagon or bicycle typically won't trip the detector (the light
shines under or through). The same is true of vehicles (unless their
front
or rear axles are in the path.


I mounted my photocells about 2 feet off the floor. That way if I don't get
the truck all the way in it may see it. The garage is only about 2 feet
longer than the truck and I have to pull almost top the wall if I want to
get the door shut and maybe walk around the truck with the garage door
closed.

I usually have a push broom hanging on a peg board and drive the truck so I
just bump it to let me know when I am far enough in.

Jeff Wisnia wrote:
When SWMBO and I were leaving home this AM (Late for where we were
going as usual.) I pulled the car out of the garage and pushed the
button on the door opener remote in the car.

We watched the door closing smoothly, but about rive inches from full
down it reversed direction and went back up. Another try produced the
same results.

We had about 8 inches of wet snow here in Red Sox Nation yesterday,
so I jumped out of the car and went looking for some snow or ice that
the door might be striking near the ground and reversing in response to
"overload."

I couldn't find spot like that. I tried adding my strength to the
opener's as the door was coming down by pushing downwards on the
outside door handle. No luck, the opener still reversed close to
fully closed.
I finally went inside the garage and watched the door as it was
descending. And there it was, a dead tree leaf stuck to the bottom
edge of the door and extending inwards enough to interrupt the
photoelectric safety beam and trigger the opener's reversing.

In the summer it will be spiders.

On Sat, 6 Feb 2016 15:41:46 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Don Y" wrote in message
...
IME, the photocells aren't worth their cost. They really only detect
things
that are ON the garage floor IN the path of the beam.

Like a sick or unconscious child. Sensors to detect lack of forward
mostion are too complicated to rely on completely.

E.g., a kids wagon or bicycle typically won't trip the detector (the light
shines under or through). The same is true of vehicles (unless their
front
or rear axles are in the path.

I mounted my photocells about 2 feet off the floor. That way if I don't get

Neither children nor adults are 2 feet thick.

You folks get me, all worried about your little red wagon and ignoring
why the photosensors are included, to protect children.

the truck all the way in it may see it. The garage is only about 2 feet
longer than the truck and I have to pull almost top the wall if I want to
get the door shut and maybe walk around the truck with the garage door
closed.

I usually have a push broom hanging on a peg board and drive the truck so I
just bump it to let me know when I am far enough in.

On 2/6/2016 1:33 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Don Y wrote:
On 2/6/2016 10:51 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
That photoelectric stuff wasn't around when I installed the original
openers,
so I never really had any experience with it and didn't think of it at
first as
being the cause of the door reversing near fully closed. I know better
now.

IME, the photocells aren't worth their cost. They really only detect
things
that are ON the garage floor IN the path of the beam.

E.g., a kids wagon or bicycle typically won't trip the detector (the light
shines under or through). The same is true of vehicles (unless their front
or rear axles are in the path.

Openers that sense closing force (reversing when the feel "resistance")
also have too heavy of a hand in sensing (i.e., they'd crease the hood
of a vehicle parked beneath it). The door mechanism would have to be
critically damped to make them practical (at very low forces).

I agree with everything you say Don, and I am certainly aware that a lot of
those photoelectric sensors end up being mounted on the garage ceiling.

Probably a lot of them are up there because the homeowner who installed the
opener was too lazy to string and fasten the leads from the opener's location
to the both sides of the bottom of the door frame and sometimes might also
have to add a couple of pieces of wood to mount the units on so they were
located properly. (Like I had to.)

Ditto. Despite the fact that the included "brackets" SUGGESTED they should
just clip onto the door rails! (didn't fit)

But, since my luck is so bad that if someone left me a cemetery in their will,
people would stop dying, I just didn't want to risk the remote possibility that
someone would get seriously injured in a freak accident being smashed by the
door while it was closing and I'd get nailed for deliberately ignoring the
installation instructions. So, I installed them "the right way" and will put up
with whatever minor annoyances they may cause me in the future.

I installed them on our opener as well. I'm just commenting that they
(so far) have been more of a nuisance than a help.

Garage door has "stiffener ribs" that protrude about 3" into the garage from
the plane of the door. Not used to the "fit" of the new car in the garage,
yet, so always fear I've not BACKED IN (SWMBO doesn't like backing OUT!)
far enough to clear those "ribs". Each time I close the door I half expect
to hear them slap the front of the car as the door comes down (the photocell
doing nothing to prevent this!)

As you said, anything you've LEFT (or that has shifted position) in the path
causes the opener to complain. Last time, it was the rope for the cutting
blade on the pole saw that had dropped into the path. Of course, doesn't
cause a problem when you *open* the door. So, you're a bit surprised when
the door decides not to *close*! ("Huh? It opened just a minute ago;
why isn't it CLOSING, now??")

Also, it appears to "see" more than just the direct line between emitter
and detector. When I command the door closed and then try to run OUT
under the closing door -- taking care to "step over" the light path -- it
often "sees me" and reverses, even though I KNOW that I haven't broken
the light path.

I have issues with "safety devices" that have (significant) limitations.
E.g., the "cross traffic alert" on the car (tells you when other cars
are approaching from either side as you are backing out) sometimes sees
pedestrians; sometimes not; usually sees oncoming cars; sometimes not;
etc. I.e., it's not something that you can RELY upon.

It would be like walking with crutches -- that *sometimes* collapse under
your weight! :-/

On 2/6/2016 1:41 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...
IME, the photocells aren't worth their cost. They really only detect
things
that are ON the garage floor IN the path of the beam.

E.g., a kids wagon or bicycle typically won't trip the detector (the light
shines under or through). The same is true of vehicles (unless their
front
or rear axles are in the path.

I mounted my photocells about 2 feet off the floor. That way if I don't get
the truck all the way in it may see it.

That's an idea! (D'oh!) Of course, it opens up a "vulnerability" *below*.
But, I suspect there is some "better height" than the 6" that I opted for
initially.

The garage is only about 2 feet
longer than the truck and I have to pull almost top the wall if I want to
get the door shut and maybe walk around the truck with the garage door
closed.

In our case, we have something like 10"!

There are stiffener ribs on the inside of the garage door that eat up ~3 inches
inside the plane of the garage door.

We back in (SWMBO doesn't like backing OUT, into "traffic") so need to
allow space behind the car for the liftgate (otherwise, we'd have to
load/unload the vehicle in the driveway!). This requires 13" for the
liftgate (which swings BACK as it lifts UP).

We try to allow a couple (literally "2 or 3") of extra inches behind the car
so we can STAND there (liftgate open) to load/unload (then, step aside
as the liftgate opens/closes).

I usually have a push broom hanging on a peg board and drive the truck so I
just bump it to let me know when I am far enough in.

I mounted a tennis ball on a string hanging so that it hits the
driver's side mirror as you back in. There's also a dotted line
on the backup camera display that we can use to gauge how close
we are to the objects behind the vehicle while backing in. The
two "indicators" (camera and ball) have to be in agreement before
I'll let the door close! (i.e., what happens if the camera is
ever knocked out of alignment?? : )

A neighbor has a "mat" of sorts that he drives over as he enters
his garage. The mat has a "lip" (like a parking curb) on it that
impedes the motion of the car past the "sweet spot". A nice idea
but I don't know what keeps it from MOVING (or BEING moved!)
when the vehicle's weight isn't holding it in place!

On 2/6/2016 4:47 PM, dadiOH wrote:
Jeff Wisnia wrote:
When SWMBO and I were leaving home this AM (Late for where we were
going as usual.) I pulled the car out of the garage and pushed the
button on the door opener remote in the car.

We watched the door closing smoothly, but about rive inches from full
down it reversed direction and went back up. Another try produced the
same results.

We had about 8 inches of wet snow here in Red Sox Nation yesterday,
so I jumped out of the car and went looking for some snow or ice that
the door might be striking near the ground and reversing in response to
"overload."

I couldn't find spot like that. I tried adding my strength to the
opener's as the door was coming down by pushing downwards on the
outside door handle. No luck, the opener still reversed close to
fully closed.
I finally went inside the garage and watched the door as it was
descending. And there it was, a dead tree leaf stuck to the bottom
edge of the door and extending inwards enough to interrupt the
photoelectric safety beam and trigger the opener's reversing.

In the summer it will be spiders.



With me, sometimes birds. Birds will be trying to nest in the garage
and fly out when door closes causing it to reopen.

On Sat, 06 Feb 2016 17:14:35 -0700, Don Y
wrote:



I mounted a tennis ball on a string hanging so that it hits the
driver's side mirror as you back in. There's also a dotted line
on the backup camera display that we can use to gauge how close
we are to the objects behind the vehicle while backing in. The
two "indicators" (camera and ball) have to be in agreement before
I'll let the door close! (i.e., what happens if the camera is
ever knocked out of alignment?? : )

A neighbor has a "mat" of sorts that he drives over as he enters
his garage. The mat has a "lip" (like a parking curb) on it that
impedes the motion of the car past the "sweet spot". A nice idea
but I don't know what keeps it from MOVING (or BEING moved!)
when the vehicle's weight isn't holding it in place!

A 2x4 on the floor works for me.

On 2/6/2016 8:39 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Sat, 06 Feb 2016 17:14:35 -0700, Don Y
wrote:



I mounted a tennis ball on a string hanging so that it hits the
driver's side mirror as you back in. There's also a dotted line
on the backup camera display that we can use to gauge how close
we are to the objects behind the vehicle while backing in. The
two "indicators" (camera and ball) have to be in agreement before
I'll let the door close! (i.e., what happens if the camera is
ever knocked out of alignment?? : )

A neighbor has a "mat" of sorts that he drives over as he enters
his garage. The mat has a "lip" (like a parking curb) on it that
impedes the motion of the car past the "sweet spot". A nice idea
but I don't know what keeps it from MOVING (or BEING moved!)
when the vehicle's weight isn't holding it in place!

A 2x4 on the floor works for me.

Again, what keeps it from moving? I.e., car is not in garage, you
walk by it and trip over it. Now it's not in the correct spot...

On Saturday, February 6, 2016 at 2:38:21 PM UTC-5, Micky wrote:
On Sat, 6 Feb 2016 12:51:28 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:


When SWMBO and I were leaving home this AM (Late for where we were going
as usual.) I pulled the car out of the garage and pushed the button on
the door opener remote in the car.

We watched the door closing smoothly, but about rive inches from full
down it reversed direction and went back up. Another try produced the
same results.

We had about 8 inches of wet snow here in Red Sox Nation yesterday, so I
jumped out of the car and went looking for some snow or ice that the
door might be striking near the ground and reversing in response to
"overload."

I couldn't find spot like that. I tried adding my strength to the
opener's as the door was coming down by pushing downwards on the outside

If this would work, wouldn't it be a way to kill the neighbor boy and
make it look like an accident?


OK, I'll play along.

First, let's assume a couple of things:

1 - The downward force of a GDO might be enough to injure or even a kill
a very small child.
2 - The neighbor boy that one might want to kill is going to be older than
a very small child. I mean, the kid has to have done something one might
consider worthy of killing for, right? So, he's probably a teenager or
young adult.

All right, with those 2 assumption in play, is the downward force of a GDO,
even set at maximum downforce, enough to actually kill a teenager/young adult?

On 02/06/2016 08:54 PM, Don Y wrote:
Again, what keeps it from moving? I.e., car is not in garage, you
walk by it and trip over it. Now it's not in the correct spot...

A Hilti DX-2?

On Sat, 06 Feb 2016 21:04:08 -0700, rbowman
wrote:

On 02/06/2016 08:54 PM, Don Y wrote:
Again, what keeps it from moving? I.e., car is not in garage, you
walk by it and trip over it. Now it's not in the correct spot...

A Hilti DX-2?

Or just a couple dabs of liquid nails. Actually, I don't even use
2x4's any more. Did that for my wife, and she doesn't need them now
either.
There's always something to tap, like a ladder or lawnmower handle.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 6, 2016 at 2:38:21 PM UTC-5, Micky wrote:
On Sat, 6 Feb 2016 12:51:28 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:


When SWMBO and I were leaving home this AM (Late for where we were going
as usual.) I pulled the car out of the garage and pushed the button on
the door opener remote in the car.

We watched the door closing smoothly, but about rive inches from full
down it reversed direction and went back up. Another try produced the
same results.

We had about 8 inches of wet snow here in Red Sox Nation yesterday, so I
jumped out of the car and went looking for some snow or ice that the
door might be striking near the ground and reversing in response to
"overload."

I couldn't find spot like that. I tried adding my strength to the
opener's as the door was coming down by pushing downwards on the outside

If this would work, wouldn't it be a way to kill the neighbor boy and
make it look like an accident?


OK, I'll play along.

First, let's assume a couple of things:

1 - The downward force of a GDO might be enough to injure or even a kill
a very small child.
2 - The neighbor boy that one might want to kill is going to be older than
a very small child. I mean, the kid has to have done something one might
consider worthy of killing for, right? So, he's probably a teenager or
young adult.

All right, with those 2 assumption in play, is the downward force of a GDO,
even set at maximum downforce, enough to actually kill a teenager/young adult?



It isn't just the downforce setting, it's also the inertia of the door.
Our garage doors are wood, and weigh well over 200 pounds each, which
makes for a lot of kinetic energy when they are in motion
..

I'm scared to think of what would happen to the kid's skull if he was
lying in just the wrong spot so his head was on a concrete floor and a
moving door came down on it.

I remember the first time one of the door extension springs broke, and
it didn't have a color code on it indicating its strength. To find out
how heavy the door was I disconnected the remaining spring and used a
bathroom scale with a 2:1 wood lever over it, because the scale topped
out with the door directly on it.

I ended up buying "150 lb" springs and have had to replace them (in
pairs) maybe three or four times times in 30 years when another one broke.

And yes, I did put safety cables inside those springs when the first one
broke, something the builders didn't bother with when we had our home
built. I happened to be in the garage while a door was closing the first
time a spring broke and the noise of the spring whacking against the
ceiling and door track scared the **** out of me. That's when I learned
about the need for safety cables in extension springs.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

Micky wrote:
On Sat, 6 Feb 2016 15:41:46 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Don Y" wrote in message
...
IME, the photocells aren't worth their cost. They really only detect
things
that are ON the garage floor IN the path of the beam.

Like a sick or unconscious child. Sensors to detect lack of forward
mostion are too complicated to rely on completely.

E.g., a kids wagon or bicycle typically won't trip the detector (the light
shines under or through). The same is true of vehicles (unless their
front
or rear axles are in the path.

I mounted my photocells about 2 feet off the floor. That way if I don't get

Neither children nor adults are 2 feet thick.

You folks get me, all worried about your little red wagon and ignoring
why the photosensors are included, to protect children.

the truck all the way in it may see it. The garage is only about 2 feet
longer than the truck and I have to pull almost top the wall if I want to
get the door shut and maybe walk around the truck with the garage door
closed.

I usually have a push broom hanging on a peg board and drive the truck so I
just bump it to let me know when I am far enough in.


I've got a lally column in our garage which tells me my car is pulled in
the right distance when its right side view mirror is next to that
column. A front seat passenger has to get out of the car before I pull
in though.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On 2/7/2016 10:41 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:

It isn't just the downforce setting, it's also the inertia of the door. Our
garage doors are wood, and weigh well over 200 pounds each, which makes for a
lot of kinetic energy when they are in motion
..

I'm scared to think of what would happen to the kid's skull if he was lying in
just the wrong spot so his head was on a concrete floor and a moving door came
down on it.

I'm not quite sure. I *watched* a neighbor back his van over one
of his children -- who had dashed under it to retrieve a ball
(horrible feeling seeing something like that unfold in front of your
eyes and being powerless to do anything about it!)

The kid ended up wearing a back brace after that. Not sure what
the eventual outcome was (I moved away shortly thereafter).

I remember the first time one of the door extension springs broke, and it
didn't have a color code on it indicating its strength. To find out how heavy
the door was I disconnected the remaining spring and used a bathroom scale with
a 2:1 wood lever over it, because the scale topped out with the door directly
on it.

I ended up buying "150 lb" springs and have had to replace them (in pairs)
maybe three or four times times in 30 years when another one broke.

You should periodically lubricate them. Their coils rub against each other
(assuming coiled, tension).

And yes, I did put safety cables inside those springs when the first one broke,

Ah, you have the linear springs.

something the builders didn't bother with when we had our home built. I
happened to be in the garage while a door was closing the first time a spring
broke and the noise of the spring whacking against the ceiling and door track
scared the **** out of me. That's when I learned about the need for safety
cables in extension springs.

Does anyone know when the color coding of the linear door springs was started? I also have had to replace one spring that was from before the color coding era that we have today. I chose one based on the diameter of the spring material itself.

On 2/6/2016 12:28 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/6/2016 12:51 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:



I've only had photoelectric safeties on the garage doors for a couple of
months as that's when I replaced the two 30 year old Craftsman openers
which were given up their ghosts with brand new Craftsman openers which
came with photoelectric safety stuff I added when changing out the
openers.

That photoelectric stuff wasn't around when I installed the original
openers, so I never really had any experience with it and didn't think
of it at first as being the cause of the door reversing near fully
closed. I know better now.

Jeff


Mine are mounted about a foot apart up in the rafters. So far, no leaves.



That's cheating, Ed. How the hell is the government going to protect
you from yourself if you do that sort of thing?

On 2/7/2016 2:04 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 2/6/2016 12:28 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/6/2016 12:51 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:



I've only had photoelectric safeties on the garage doors for a couple of
months as that's when I replaced the two 30 year old Craftsman openers
which were given up their ghosts with brand new Craftsman openers which
came with photoelectric safety stuff I added when changing out the
openers.

That photoelectric stuff wasn't around when I installed the original
openers, so I never really had any experience with it and didn't think
of it at first as being the cause of the door reversing near fully
closed. I know better now.

Mine are mounted about a foot apart up in the rafters. So far, no leaves.

That's cheating, Ed. How the hell is the government going to protect you from
yourself if you do that sort of thing?

He chose that location so that if he is ever up in the rafters
working on roof repairs and happens to *fall* while the door is
in the process of closing, the photodetector will prevent him
from being crushed by the door so his death is unambiguously
attributable to the HEAD INJURIES he sustains! :

[Gotta keep those GDO liability claims to a minimum!!]

On Sunday, February 7, 2016 at 12:41:15 PM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 6, 2016 at 2:38:21 PM UTC-5, Micky wrote:
On Sat, 6 Feb 2016 12:51:28 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:


When SWMBO and I were leaving home this AM (Late for where we were going
as usual.) I pulled the car out of the garage and pushed the button on
the door opener remote in the car.

We watched the door closing smoothly, but about rive inches from full
down it reversed direction and went back up. Another try produced the
same results.

We had about 8 inches of wet snow here in Red Sox Nation yesterday, so I
jumped out of the car and went looking for some snow or ice that the
door might be striking near the ground and reversing in response to
"overload."

I couldn't find spot like that. I tried adding my strength to the
opener's as the door was coming down by pushing downwards on the outside

If this would work, wouldn't it be a way to kill the neighbor boy and
make it look like an accident?


OK, I'll play along.

First, let's assume a couple of things:

1 - The downward force of a GDO might be enough to injure or even a kill
a very small child.
2 - The neighbor boy that one might want to kill is going to be older than
a very small child. I mean, the kid has to have done something one might
consider worthy of killing for, right? So, he's probably a teenager or
young adult.

All right, with those 2 assumption in play, is the downward force of a GDO,
even set at maximum downforce, enough to actually kill a teenager/young adult?



It isn't just the downforce setting, it's also the inertia of the door.
Our garage doors are wood, and weigh well over 200 pounds each, which
makes for a lot of kinetic energy when they are in motion
.


You are talking about a case where the door is not being controlled by a GDO.

In your OP, you said that you tried adding your strength to GDO as it was closing and Micky asked that if that had worked (basically defeating the sensors
and allowing the door to close even with a blockage) woluldn't tht be a way
to kill the neighbor boy.

There is very little "kinetic energy" when the door is being lowered with the
GDO because the GDO is holding it back.

I'm scared to think of what would happen to the kid's skull if he was
lying in just the wrong spot so his head was on a concrete floor and a
moving door came down on it.

That's my question. Even at the highest downward force setting, I believe
that the door will eventually reverse when it hits an obstruction. The
downward force setting is there to overcome things like a cold, stiff door,
maybe a track that is slightly out of alignment, etc. It's not there to drive
the door down through the pavement.

So my question remains: Can a garage door that is being controlled by a
GDO actually exert enough force to kill a teenager/young adult?



I remember the first time one of the door extension springs broke, and
it didn't have a color code on it indicating its strength. To find out
how heavy the door was I disconnected the remaining spring and used a
bathroom scale with a 2:1 wood lever over it, because the scale topped
out with the door directly on it.

Interesting story, but not the situation I am asking about.


I ended up buying "150 lb" springs and have had to replace them (in
pairs) maybe three or four times times in 30 years when another one broke.

And yes, I did put safety cables inside those springs when the first one
broke, something the builders didn't bother with when we had our home
built. I happened to be in the garage while a door was closing the first
time a spring broke and the noise of the spring whacking against the
ceiling and door track scared the **** out of me. That's when I learned
about the need for safety cables in extension springs.

I once worked with a guy that got hit upside the head by a side-spring that
snapped as he was walking by it. He was out of work for about a month
and when he came back his face was still all bruised. Damn near killed him.
His wife heard the noise and when he didn't come in right away, she went
out and found him unconscious on the garage floor.

On Sun, 7 Feb 2016 12:15:13 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Does anyone know when the color coding of the linear door springs was started? I also have had to replace one spring that was from before the color coding era that we have today. I chose one based on the diameter of the spring material itself.

Don't know when the color code started. There is a way to measure the
spring coils. We had a long thread here years ago with Danny D.
(Huckleberry) He gave a the best link on the web for GDOs.

http://ddmgaragedoors.com/index.php

You can spend days reading his information, watching videos, etc.

The guy takes phone calls and replies to e-mail.

On 2/7/2016 2:55 PM, Don Y wrote:
I'm scared to think of what would happen to the kid's skull if he was
lying in
just the wrong spot so his head was on a concrete floor and a moving
door came
down on it.

I'm not quite sure. I *watched* a neighbor back his van over one
of his children -- who had dashed under it to retrieve a ball
(horrible feeling seeing something like that unfold in front of your
eyes and being powerless to do anything about it!)

The kid ended up wearing a back brace after that. Not sure what
the eventual outcome was (I moved away shortly thereafter).


Agree; that does sound miserable to watch.

This won't change your nightmare, but I saw
close to such a situation once. The boy about
three years old was running around as the
father backed the rental truck in. I picked
up the boy and held him as I stood in miror
sight of Dad and waved him in. Figured Dad
could see that his boy was not under a wheel.
Not sure if the Dad figured out the reason,
but I'm pleased to say the boy was not injured.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 7, 2016 at 12:41:15 PM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

First, let's assume a couple of things:

1 - The downward force of a GDO might be enough to injure or even a kill
a very small child.
2 - The neighbor boy that one might want to kill is going to be older than
a very small child. I mean, the kid has to have done something one might
consider worthy of killing for, right? So, he's probably a teenager or
young adult.

All right, with those 2 assumption in play, is the downward force of a GDO,
even set at maximum downforce, enough to actually kill a teenager/young adult?



It isn't just the downforce setting, it's also the inertia of the door.
Our garage doors are wood, and weigh well over 200 pounds each, which
makes for a lot of kinetic energy when they are in motion
.


You are talking about a case where the door is not being controlled by a GDO.

In your OP, you said that you tried adding your strength to GDO as it was closing and Micky asked that if that had worked (basically defeating the sensors
and allowing the door to close even with a blockage) woluldn't tht be a way
to kill the neighbor boy.

There is very little "kinetic energy" when the door is being lowered with the
GDO because the GDO is holding it back.

I'm scared to think of what would happen to the kid's skull if he was
lying in just the wrong spot so his head was on a concrete floor and a
moving door came down on it.

That's my question. Even at the highest downward force setting, I believe
that the door will eventually reverse when it hits an obstruction. The
downward force setting is there to overcome things like a cold, stiff door,
maybe a track that is slightly out of alignment, etc. It's not there to drive
the door down through the pavement.

So my question remains: Can a garage door that is being controlled by a
GDO actually exert enough force to kill a teenager/young adult?


Re my "kinetic energy" comment, it might be interesting to put a coconut
(in place of a real kid's skull.) on the concrete where the door comes
down and see what happens to it.

I doubt if the downforce reversing of the opener can happen fast enough
to overcome the inertia of the moving door and "save" the coconut.

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Sunday, February 7, 2016 at 6:28:38 PM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 7, 2016 at 12:41:15 PM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

First, let's assume a couple of things:

1 - The downward force of a GDO might be enough to injure or even a kill
a very small child.
2 - The neighbor boy that one might want to kill is going to be older than
a very small child. I mean, the kid has to have done something one might
consider worthy of killing for, right? So, he's probably a teenager or
young adult.

All right, with those 2 assumption in play, is the downward force of a GDO,
even set at maximum downforce, enough to actually kill a teenager/young adult?



It isn't just the downforce setting, it's also the inertia of the door.
Our garage doors are wood, and weigh well over 200 pounds each, which
makes for a lot of kinetic energy when they are in motion
.


You are talking about a case where the door is not being controlled by a GDO.

In your OP, you said that you tried adding your strength to GDO as it was closing and Micky asked that if that had worked (basically defeating the sensors
and allowing the door to close even with a blockage) woluldn't tht be a way
to kill the neighbor boy.

There is very little "kinetic energy" when the door is being lowered with the
GDO because the GDO is holding it back.

I'm scared to think of what would happen to the kid's skull if he was
lying in just the wrong spot so his head was on a concrete floor and a
moving door came down on it.

That's my question. Even at the highest downward force setting, I believe
that the door will eventually reverse when it hits an obstruction. The
downward force setting is there to overcome things like a cold, stiff door,
maybe a track that is slightly out of alignment, etc. It's not there to drive
the door down through the pavement.

So my question remains: Can a garage door that is being controlled by a
GDO actually exert enough force to kill a teenager/young adult?


Re my "kinetic energy" comment, it might be interesting to put a coconut
(in place of a real kid's skull.) on the concrete where the door comes
down and see what happens to it.

I doubt if the downforce reversing of the opener can happen fast enough
to overcome the inertia of the moving door and "save" the coconut.


No way to tell what the downward is set at in this video or what would
have happened to a skull or coconut.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uFl6cNUh04

BTW...I don't think I coconut is a good substitute for a skull. I think a
skull would pop/deform long before a coconut would.

Maybe we need Jamie and Adam to build us a skull analogue.

On Mon, 8 Feb 2016 09:06:10 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, February 7, 2016 at 6:28:38 PM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 7, 2016 at 12:41:15 PM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

First, let's assume a couple of things:

1 - The downward force of a GDO might be enough to injure or even a kill
a very small child.
2 - The neighbor boy that one might want to kill is going to be older than
a very small child. I mean, the kid has to have done something one might
consider worthy of killing for, right? So, he's probably a teenager or
young adult.

All right, with those 2 assumption in play, is the downward force of a GDO,
even set at maximum downforce, enough to actually kill a teenager/young adult?



It isn't just the downforce setting, it's also the inertia of the door.
Our garage doors are wood, and weigh well over 200 pounds each, which
makes for a lot of kinetic energy when they are in motion
.


You are talking about a case where the door is not being controlled by a GDO.

In your OP, you said that you tried adding your strength to GDO as it was closing and Micky asked that if that had worked (basically defeating the sensors
and allowing the door to close even with a blockage) woluldn't tht be a way
to kill the neighbor boy.

There is very little "kinetic energy" when the door is being lowered with the
GDO because the GDO is holding it back.

I'm scared to think of what would happen to the kid's skull if he was
lying in just the wrong spot so his head was on a concrete floor and a
moving door came down on it.

That's my question. Even at the highest downward force setting, I believe
that the door will eventually reverse when it hits an obstruction. The

Assuming that circuit is working.

downward force setting is there to overcome things like a cold, stiff door,
maybe a track that is slightly out of alignment, etc. It's not there to drive
the door down through the pavement.

So my question remains: Can a garage door that is being controlled by a
GDO actually exert enough force to kill a teenager/young adult?

Perhaps not. My goal would be to kill smaller children so that's not
really a problem for me.


Re my "kinetic energy" comment, it might be interesting to put a coconut
(in place of a real kid's skull.) on the concrete where the door comes
down and see what happens to it.

I doubt if the downforce reversing of the opener can happen fast enough
to overcome the inertia of the moving door and "save" the coconut.


No way to tell what the downward is set at in this video or what would
have happened to a skull or coconut.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uFl6cNUh04

BTW...I don't think I coconut is a good substitute for a skull. I think a

I think a coconut is a lot stronger than a child's skull.

skull would pop/deform long before a coconut would.

That would be almost good enough. If I coudln't kill the young man, I
could at least arrange it so he needed help to eat.

Maybe we need Jamie and Adam to build us a skull analogue.

Plus it can land on their chest, or their back behind their chest, so
that it doesn't have to crush anything, just prevent inhaling.

Do you know what fail-safe is? Your system is fail-unsafe.

On Mon, 08 Feb 2016 22:24:02 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Mon, 8 Feb 2016 09:06:10 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, February 7, 2016 at 6:28:38 PM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 7, 2016 at 12:41:15 PM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

First, let's assume a couple of things:

1 - The downward force of a GDO might be enough to injure or even a kill
a very small child.
2 - The neighbor boy that one might want to kill is going to be older than
a very small child. I mean, the kid has to have done something one might
consider worthy of killing for, right? So, he's probably a teenager or
young adult.

All right, with those 2 assumption in play, is the downward force of a GDO,
even set at maximum downforce, enough to actually kill a teenager/young adult?



It isn't just the downforce setting, it's also the inertia of the door.
Our garage doors are wood, and weigh well over 200 pounds each, which
makes for a lot of kinetic energy when they are in motion
.


You are talking about a case where the door is not being controlled by a GDO.

In your OP, you said that you tried adding your strength to GDO as it was closing and Micky asked that if that had worked (basically defeating the sensors
and allowing the door to close even with a blockage) woluldn't tht be a way
to kill the neighbor boy.

There is very little "kinetic energy" when the door is being lowered with the
GDO because the GDO is holding it back.

I'm scared to think of what would happen to the kid's skull if he was
lying in just the wrong spot so his head was on a concrete floor and a
moving door came down on it.

That's my question. Even at the highest downward force setting, I believe
that the door will eventually reverse when it hits an obstruction. The

Assuming that circuit is working.

downward force setting is there to overcome things like a cold, stiff door,
maybe a track that is slightly out of alignment, etc. It's not there to drive
the door down through the pavement.

So my question remains: Can a garage door that is being controlled by a
GDO actually exert enough force to kill a teenager/young adult?

Perhaps not. My goal would be to kill smaller children so that's not
really a problem for me.


Re my "kinetic energy" comment, it might be interesting to put a coconut
(in place of a real kid's skull.) on the concrete where the door comes
down and see what happens to it.

I doubt if the downforce reversing of the opener can happen fast enough
to overcome the inertia of the moving door and "save" the coconut.


No way to tell what the downward is set at in this video or what would
have happened to a skull or coconut.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uFl6cNUh04

This is the video that ran automatically after the one above:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxuS7J3eEnA

It looks like a very expensive house with a custom garage door that
opens sideways, and perhaps servants. Well it's hard to tell if those
people were already there or how long it took until they came, the
girl in the blue smock, the guy in the yellow overalls, and the one
who looks like a nurse. The guy with the tie seems like the husband.

BTW...I don't think I coconut is a good substitute for a skull. I think a

I think a coconut is a lot stronger than a child's skull.

skull would pop/deform long before a coconut would.

That would be almost good enough. If I coudln't kill the young man, I
could at least arrange it so he needed help to eat.

Maybe we need Jamie and Adam to build us a skull analogue.

Plus it can land on their chest, or their back behind their chest, so
that it doesn't have to crush anything, just prevent inhaling.

Do you know what fail-safe is? Your system is fail-unsafe.

On Monday, February 8, 2016 at 10:32:16 PM UTC-5, Micky wrote:
On Mon, 08 Feb 2016 22:24:02 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Mon, 8 Feb 2016 09:06:10 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, February 7, 2016 at 6:28:38 PM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 7, 2016 at 12:41:15 PM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

First, let's assume a couple of things:

1 - The downward force of a GDO might be enough to injure or even a kill
a very small child.
2 - The neighbor boy that one might want to kill is going to be older than
a very small child. I mean, the kid has to have done something one might
consider worthy of killing for, right? So, he's probably a teenager or
young adult.

All right, with those 2 assumption in play, is the downward force of a GDO,
even set at maximum downforce, enough to actually kill a teenager/young adult?



It isn't just the downforce setting, it's also the inertia of the door.
Our garage doors are wood, and weigh well over 200 pounds each, which
makes for a lot of kinetic energy when they are in motion
.


You are talking about a case where the door is not being controlled by a GDO.

In your OP, you said that you tried adding your strength to GDO as it was closing and Micky asked that if that had worked (basically defeating the sensors
and allowing the door to close even with a blockage) woluldn't tht be a way
to kill the neighbor boy.

There is very little "kinetic energy" when the door is being lowered with the
GDO because the GDO is holding it back.

I'm scared to think of what would happen to the kid's skull if he was
lying in just the wrong spot so his head was on a concrete floor and a
moving door came down on it.

That's my question. Even at the highest downward force setting, I believe
that the door will eventually reverse when it hits an obstruction. The

Assuming that circuit is working.

downward force setting is there to overcome things like a cold, stiff door,
maybe a track that is slightly out of alignment, etc. It's not there to drive
the door down through the pavement.

So my question remains: Can a garage door that is being controlled by a
GDO actually exert enough force to kill a teenager/young adult?

Perhaps not. My goal would be to kill smaller children so that's not
really a problem for me.


Re my "kinetic energy" comment, it might be interesting to put a coconut
(in place of a real kid's skull.) on the concrete where the door comes
down and see what happens to it.

I doubt if the downforce reversing of the opener can happen fast enough
to overcome the inertia of the moving door and "save" the coconut.


No way to tell what the downward is set at in this video or what would
have happened to a skull or coconut.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uFl6cNUh04

This is the video that ran automatically after the one above:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxuS7J3eEnA

It looks like a very expensive house with a custom garage door that
opens sideways, and perhaps servants. Well it's hard to tell if those
people were already there or how long it took until they came, the
girl in the blue smock, the guy in the yellow overalls, and the one
who looks like a nurse. The guy with the tie seems like the husband.


I saw that one too.

Considering the security booth, underground garage, smocks, etc. I'd guess
it's a hospital, not a house.

On Tue, 9 Feb 2016 03:19:48 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uFl6cNUh04

This is the video that ran automatically after the one above:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxuS7J3eEnA

It looks like a very expensive house with a custom garage door that
opens sideways, and perhaps servants. Well it's hard to tell if those
people were already there or how long it took until they came, the
girl in the blue smock, the guy in the yellow overalls, and the one
who looks like a nurse. The guy with the tie seems like the husband.


I saw that one too.

Considering the security booth, underground garage, smocks, etc. I'd guess
it's a hospital, not a house.

MY brother had a laundry room, bathroom just off his garage and I
thought that's what that was. And yeah there was no light coming in
when the garage door was open but I figured it was night out or the
garage was half a flight down. But being a hospital would account
for how all those people were there so quickly.

rbowman posted for all of us...



On 02/06/2016 08:54 PM, Don Y wrote:
Again, what keeps it from moving? I.e., car is not in garage, you
walk by it and trip over it. Now it's not in the correct spot...

A Hilti DX-2?

+1 Good one!

--
Tekkie

Don Y wrote:
On 2/6/2016 1:41 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...
IME, the photocells aren't worth their cost. They really only detect
things
that are ON the garage floor IN the path of the beam.

E.g., a kids wagon or bicycle typically won't trip the detector (the
light
shines under or through). The same is true of vehicles (unless their
front
or rear axles are in the path.

I mounted my photocells about 2 feet off the floor. That way if I
don't get
the truck all the way in it may see it.

That's an idea! (D'oh!) Of course, it opens up a "vulnerability" *below*.
But, I suspect there is some "better height" than the 6" that I opted for
initially.

The garage is only about 2 feet
longer than the truck and I have to pull almost top the wall if I want to
get the door shut and maybe walk around the truck with the garage door
closed.

In our case, we have something like 10"!

There are stiffener ribs on the inside of the garage door that eat up ~3
inches
inside the plane of the garage door.

When I started this thread I said that the leaf was stuck to the bottom
edge of the garage door. That wasn't a very accurate description. The
leaf was actually stuck to the top of the stiffener rib at the bottom of
the garage door. It reached inward enough to interrupt the photobeam
which was located just beyond the didtance that rib extended towards the
inside of the garage.

Jeff

We back in (SWMBO doesn't like backing OUT, into "traffic") so need to
allow space behind the car for the liftgate (otherwise, we'd have to
load/unload the vehicle in the driveway!). This requires 13" for the
liftgate (which swings BACK as it lifts UP).

We try to allow a couple (literally "2 or 3") of extra inches behind the
car
so we can STAND there (liftgate open) to load/unload (then, step aside
as the liftgate opens/closes).

I usually have a push broom hanging on a peg board and drive the truck
so I
just bump it to let me know when I am far enough in.

I mounted a tennis ball on a string hanging so that it hits the
driver's side mirror as you back in. There's also a dotted line
on the backup camera display that we can use to gauge how close
we are to the objects behind the vehicle while backing in. The
two "indicators" (camera and ball) have to be in agreement before
I'll let the door close! (i.e., what happens if the camera is
ever knocked out of alignment?? : )

A neighbor has a "mat" of sorts that he drives over as he enters
his garage. The mat has a "lip" (like a parking curb) on it that
impedes the motion of the car past the "sweet spot". A nice idea
but I don't know what keeps it from MOVING (or BEING moved!)
when the vehicle's weight isn't holding it in place!

On 2/9/2016 3:55 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
When I started this thread I said that the leaf was stuck to the bottom
edge of the garage door. That wasn't a very accurate description. The
leaf was actually stuck to the top of the stiffener rib at the bottom of
the garage door. It reached inward enough to interrupt the photobeam
which was located just beyond the didtance that rib extended towards the
inside of the garage.

Jeff


Sigh. Another perfectly good thread gone
to naught.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

stuff snipped

http://articles.latimes.com/1990-10-..._1_garage-door

WASHINGTON - At least 46 children have died in the last eight years
because they were struck by automatic garage doors, government safety
experts said Monday.
They urged that homeowners replace all garage doors that do not have
automatic reverse. The children were killed when closing doors did not
reopen automatically, the Consumer Product Safety Commission said.

The agency said children's lives could be safeguarded by checking the garage
door opener and having it repaired or replaced immediately if the door does
not respond to striking an object.

--

Bobby G.

On Mon, 08 Feb 2016 22:24:02 -0500, Micky
wrote:


That's my question. Even at the highest downward force setting, I believe
that the door will eventually reverse when it hits an obstruction. The

Assuming that circuit is working.

The two passenger trains that hit each other head on in Germany today,
the 9th, had a safety system so that they couldnt' do that. I guess
it didn't work. 10 dead, 80 injured.

"He says the stretch was fitted with a safety system designed to
automatically stop trains to prevent such a crash and it's not clear
why it didn't function."

And as for setting the photocells to work at 2 feet above the floor:
with 2 more mirrors one can have the same photocell work at 2 feet and
5 inches at the same time.

On Wednesday, February 10, 2016 at 12:32:58 AM UTC-5, Robert Green wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

stuff snipped

http://articles.latimes.com/1990-10-..._1_garage-door

WASHINGTON - At least 46 children have died in the last eight years
because they were struck by automatic garage doors, government safety
experts said Monday.
They urged that homeowners replace all garage doors that do not have
automatic reverse. The children were killed when closing doors did not
reopen automatically, the Consumer Product Safety Commission said.

The agency said children's lives could be safeguarded by checking the garage
door opener and having it repaired or replaced immediately if the door does
not respond to striking an object.

--

Bobby G.

Thanks for the link, but that doesn't really fit the situation I was describing.

Article: GDO without automatic reverse or where automatic feature was broken.

Me: Properly working automatic reverse (implied) set at the maximum downforce.

The question is about the downforce. The downforce setting will force the door past some
level of obstruction. The question is whether or not it can be set strong enough so that
the door doesn't reverse before the death of a teenager or young adult occurs.