About fifteen years ago, I put an AC in my living
room window. Some Great Stuff foam around it, and
it was fine for a while.

Started to tilt a bit much, so I put some wood
brace under it. From the AC to the wooden deck.

"You know, ought to put a bracket under that, and
bolt to the trailer wall. The deck and the trailer
shift when frost hits, and the ground heaves."

Well, fifteen years and two hours later, I have
such a bracket. Not sure how long it will hold,
but it's good for now.

Wonder what else I'm delaying?
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 11/3/2015 1:02 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Well, fifteen years and two hours later, I have
such a bracket. Not sure how long it will hold,
but it's good for now.

Wonder what else I'm delaying?
.

The insurance company required a railing for
my front stairs. Such railing is now installed
and functional.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

Per Stormin Mormon:
Well, fifteen years and two hours later, I have
such a bracket. Not sure how long it will hold,
but it's good for now.

Reminds me of an experience I had with some bathroom faucets I replaced.

Stopped by the local high-end plumbing supply store to see what the diff
was between the ones I had bought at KMart or someplace like that and
the ones they had.

Showed mine to the guy behind the parts desk and asked "What's the
diff...?"

He looked at me, looked at the faucet, pointed to a functional
equivalent by Delta for about 10 times the price, turned red in the face
and semi-shouted "This is *QUALITY* and that is ****** !".... I mean
like other customers in the place turned their heads.

Went home, installed them.

That was 37 years ago.

In that time, I have rebuilt the fancy-schamcy Delta faucet on the
kitchen sink a total of 5 (five...) times.

The "****" faucets in the bathrooms ? One is still going with no
maintenance. The other, I replaces the cartridge last year because the
action was getting stiff.

Go figure....
--
Pete Cresswell

On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 13:02:40 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:


About fifteen years ago, I put an AC in my living
room window. Some Great Stuff foam around it, and
it was fine for a while.

Started to tilt a bit much, so I put some wood
brace under it. From the AC to the wooden deck.

"You know, ought to put a bracket under that, and
bolt to the trailer wall. The deck and the trailer
shift when frost hits, and the ground heaves."

Well, fifteen years and two hours later, I have
such a bracket. Not sure how long it will hold,
but it's good for now.

Wonder what else I'm delaying?
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
Only the inevitable......

On 11/3/2015 12:02 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

About fifteen years ago, I put an AC in my living
room window. Some Great Stuff foam around it, and
it was fine for a while.

Started to tilt a bit much, so I put some wood
brace under it. From the AC to the wooden deck.

"You know, ought to put a bracket under that, and
bolt to the trailer wall. The deck and the trailer
shift when frost hits, and the ground heaves."

Well, fifteen years and two hours later, I have
such a bracket. Not sure how long it will hold,
but it's good for now.

Wonder what else I'm delaying?
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
15 years to do a two hour job... yep, that's about right for my place
also.

On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 13:02:40 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:


About fifteen years ago, I put an AC in my living
room window. Some Great Stuff foam around it, and
it was fine for a while.

Started to tilt a bit much, so I put some wood
brace under it. From the AC to the wooden deck.

"You know, ought to put a bracket under that, and
bolt to the trailer wall. The deck and the trailer
shift when frost hits, and the ground heaves."

Well, fifteen years and two hours later, I have
such a bracket. Not sure how long it will hold,
but it's good for now.

Wonder what else I'm delaying?
.
Christopher

Well, I stalled around the last two months of last winter and the
first month of this winter, about installing the primary control unit
for my furnace, and finally did it two nights ago.

Now it's starting to appear that it was not bad in the first place,
that the thermostat contacts have excessive resistance.

It chattered for 60 seconds before it started Sunday night, but it's
been so warm since then, it wouldn't have gone on.

At least I didn't pay for the control unit, got it free from a
matching furnace that a neibhbor was replacing.

I'm still surprised that a 24v typically-low-current thermostat would
have high resistance contacts tthat would lower the voltage to the
relay.

On 11/03/2015 11:02 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Well, fifteen years and two hours later, I have
such a bracket. Not sure how long it will hold,
but it's good for now.

There's no sense in rushing into things. I bought my present cave when
it got too cold to live comfortably in the back of my pickup. I figured
it was cheaper than paying rent all winter in a tight rental market and
I'd move on in the spring. That was 26 years ago...

On Tue, 03 Nov 2015 20:37:24 -0500, Micky
wrote:


Well, I stalled around the last two months of last winter and the
first month of this winter, about installing the primary control unit
for my furnace, and finally did it two nights ago.

Now it's starting to appear that it was not bad in the first place,
that the thermostat contacts have excessive resistance.

It chattered for 60 seconds before it started Sunday night, but it's
been so warm since then, it wouldn't have gone on.

At least I didn't pay for the control unit, got it free from a
matching furnace that a neibhbor was replacing.

I'm still surprised that a 24v typically-low-current thermostat would
have high resistance contacts tthat would lower the voltage to the
relay.

I just checked and with the furnace running, there is between 1.6 and
1.9 volts AC across the thermostat heat terminals (red and white). Out
of 24. That really is far too high, unless someone can give me a
good explanation.

Late last winter, I thought something had happened to the relay magnet
to make it weaker. Sometimes if I pushed on the armature and got it
close to closed, I could hear it click when the electromagnetism
pulled it the last millilmeter or two. Even though it wasn't enough
to close the relay without my help. But it wasn't the relay, it was
voltage, lowered by either bad wiring or a bad thermostat, and I doubt
it's the wiring.

On 11/3/2015 11:46 PM, Micky wrote:
I just checked and with the furnace running, there is between 1.6 and
1.9 volts AC across the thermostat heat terminals (red and white). Out
of 24. That really is far too high, unless someone can give me a
good explanation.


"with furnace running". You do realize you're
reading across a closed switch?

What voltage with furnace NOT running?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 11/3/2015 8:37 PM, Micky wrote:
Well, I stalled around the last two months of last winter and the
first month of this winter, about installing the primary control unit
for my furnace, and finally did it two nights ago.

Now it's starting to appear that it was not bad in the first place,
that the thermostat contacts have excessive resistance.

It chattered for 60 seconds before it started Sunday night, but it's
been so warm since then, it wouldn't have gone on.

At least I didn't pay for the control unit, got it free from a
matching furnace that a neibhbor was replacing.

I'm still surprised that a 24v typically-low-current thermostat would
have high resistance contacts tthat would lower the voltage to the
relay.


I do some heating. Maybe I can help? Please provide
some more detail, and I'll get back to you in fifteen
years (grin here).

Did you mention in another post, about how there is
only a couple volts across R and W, while the furnace
is running?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 11/3/2015 10:01 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 11/03/2015 11:02 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Well, fifteen years and two hours later, I have
such a bracket. Not sure how long it will hold,
but it's good for now.

There's no sense in rushing into things. I bought my present cave when
it got too cold to live comfortably in the back of my pickup. I figured
it was cheaper than paying rent all winter in a tight rental market and
I'd move on in the spring. That was 26 years ago...



Some things start as trial, but end up working.
In the housing situation, I bought a mobile home,
figured to get a real house some day. Twenty year
later, the economy is tragic, and I'm in the same
place.

Other factors like lack of money can have effect.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

I just checked and with the furnace running, there is between 1.6 and
1.9 volts AC across the thermostat heat terminals (red and white). Out
of 24. That really is far too high, unless someone can give me a
good explanation.


I'm not going to give you the answer but I will give you a big clue...

the clue is one word

ANTICIPATOR

look it up


Mark

Well, yer obviously confused when it comes to a god.
LOL

On 11/4/2015 6:15 AM, wrote:


I just checked and with the furnace running, there is between 1.6 and
1.9 volts AC across the thermostat heat terminals (red and white). Out
of 24. That really is far too high, unless someone can give me a
good explanation.


I'm not going to give you the answer but I will give you a big clue...

the clue is one word

ANTICIPATOR

look it up


Mark


As in to expect something? Is that it, little feller?

On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 06:15:01 -0800 (PST), wrote:



I just checked and with the furnace running, there is between 1.6 and
1.9 volts AC across the thermostat heat terminals (red and white). Out
of 24. That really is far too high, unless someone can give me a
good explanation.


I'm not going to give you the answer but I will give you a big clue...

the clue is one word

ANTICIPATOR

I don't think my thermostat has an anticipator, but maybe it does.

But how would that account for the voltage drop across the thermostat
when heat is called for and the heat is on?

look it up


Mark

On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 07:06:33 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/3/2015 11:46 PM, Micky wrote:
I just checked and with the furnace running, there is between 1.6 and
1.9 volts AC across the thermostat heat terminals (red and white). Out
of 24. That really is far too high, unless someone can give me a
good explanation.


"with furnace running". You do realize you're
reading across a closed switch?

What voltage with furnace NOT running?

Yes. That's why it's far too high, right? It should be zero or
close to it.

What voltage with furnace NOT running?

I haven't measured that, except when the relay was chattering.

But the cover is off the control unit and the voltage between the R
and the other end of the 24v xformer is 27.2 volts AC. With the
thermostat calling for heat, the voltage between W and the same end of
the xformer was 25.6., a 1.6v difference.

When I went to measure the voltage between the R and the W, even with
a digital meter, the relay stopped chattering immediately and closed.
At that time the voltage between R and W was 1.9 volts.

On 11/4/2015 10:01 AM, Micky wrote:
On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 06:15:01 -0800 (PST), wrote:



I just checked and with the furnace running, there is between 1.6 and
1.9 volts AC across the thermostat heat terminals (red and white). Out
of 24. That really is far too high, unless someone can give me a
good explanation.


I'm not going to give you the answer but I will give you a big clue...

the clue is one word

ANTICIPATOR

I don't think my thermostat has an anticipator, but maybe it does.

But how would that account for the voltage drop across the thermostat
when heat is called for and the heat is on?

look it up


Mark

You can't have yer cake and eat it, too, fellas.

On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 13:08:11 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 07:06:33 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/3/2015 11:46 PM, Micky wrote:
I just checked and with the furnace running, there is between 1.6 and
1.9 volts AC across the thermostat heat terminals (red and white). Out
of 24. That really is far too high, unless someone can give me a
good explanation.


"with furnace running". You do realize you're
reading across a closed switch?

What voltage with furnace NOT running?

Yes. That's why it's far too high, right? It should be zero or
close to it.

What voltage with furnace NOT running?

I haven't measured that, except when the relay was chattering.

But the cover is off the control unit and the voltage between the R
and the other end of the 24v xformer is 27.2 volts AC. With the
thermostat calling for heat, the voltage between W and the same end of
the xformer was 25.6., a 1.6v difference.

When not calling for heat, the voltage between W and the transformer
is 2.5vac. and between R and the xformer was about 25v.


When I went to measure the voltage between the R and the W, even with
a digital meter, the relay stopped chattering immediately and closed.
At that time the voltage between R and W was 1.9 volts.

On 11/04/2015 01:08 PM, Micky wrote:


When I went to measure the voltage between the R and the W, even with
a digital meter, the relay stopped chattering immediately and closed.
At that time the voltage between R and W was 1.9 volts.


Jumper the thermostat (for heat) and see if the furnace works.
If so, looks like you need a new thermostat.

On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 13:01:30 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 06:15:01 -0800 (PST), wrote:



I just checked and with the furnace running, there is between 1.6 and
1.9 volts AC across the thermostat heat terminals (red and white). Out
of 24. That really is far too high, unless someone can give me a
good explanation.


I'm not going to give you the answer but I will give you a big clue...

the clue is one word

ANTICIPATOR

I don't think my thermostat has an anticipator, but maybe it does.

I should have said that the thermostat in the wiring diagram that came
with the furnace did indeed have an anticipator. That's not the
thermostat I've been using, but maybe it has one too.

But how would that account for the voltage drop across the thermostat
when heat is called for and the heat is on?

And I can see now what you mean, that the resistance of the
anticipator would lower the voltage to the control unit.

But it shouldn't lower it so much that the relay chatters and takes a
full minute to latch. With the previous control unit, the relay
didn't chatter -- it totally failed to close, until I put a weight on
the armature, and then as the armature went down, I could feel the
magnetism of the relay pull it the last millimater or two, and I could
hear it click. And iirc I could remove the weight and it would stay
closed until the thermostat turned the heat off.

I think I incorrectly concluded the relay was bad, perhaps shorted
windings that made it not as magnetic as it should have been, so I
replaced the conrtrol unit with my spare, and the new one is acting
similarly, but it chatters.

It seems to me the voltage must be low, but it starts at 27vac which
is fine for a 24v xformer. And I have to admit that losing 1.9v,
whether that is normal or excessive, still leaves 25.1 or 25.6 volts,
which ought to be enough to close the relay, right?

So what do you think is going on?


Does chattering mean that as the armature closes, something happens to
lower or interrupt the voltage that is closing the armature, and then
when it opens fully the voltage is restored? And that something
would normally be the load when the relay closes, except here the
load, the furnace oil-pum/blower-motor and the furnace sparker, is
straight from 110v, nothing to do with the 24volts.

look it up


Mark

On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 14:51:49 -0500, Micky
wrote:

When not calling for heat, the voltage between W and the transformer
is 2.5vac. and between R and the xformer was about 25v.

Although rare, transformers can fail or become weak. Try a new
transformer.

On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 07:06:33 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/3/2015 11:46 PM, Micky wrote:
I just checked and with the furnace running, there is between 1.6 and
1.9 volts AC across the thermostat heat terminals (red and white). Out
of 24. That really is far too high, unless someone can give me a
good explanation.


"with furnace running". You do realize you're
reading across a closed switch?

What voltage with furnace NOT running?
I think he knows it's across a closed switch - and he has a 1.9 volt
drop across the "bad" points in the thermostat. However, he is
forgetting there is an "anticipator" in the thermostat. This is a
resistor in series with the contacts. He should check the anticipator
setting, then try it with the adjustment fully one direction, then the
other - and see what happens.

He also needs to check the voltage across the transformer secondary
with the furnace running.to be sure the trasformer is not weak (which
is my suspision.

On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 16:36:48 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 13:01:30 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 06:15:01 -0800 (PST), wrote:



I just checked and with the furnace running, there is between 1.6 and
1.9 volts AC across the thermostat heat terminals (red and white). Out
of 24. That really is far too high, unless someone can give me a
good explanation.


I'm not going to give you the answer but I will give you a big clue...

the clue is one word

ANTICIPATOR

I don't think my thermostat has an anticipator, but maybe it does.

I should have said that the thermostat in the wiring diagram that came
with the furnace did indeed have an anticipator. That's not the
thermostat I've been using, but maybe it has one too.

But how would that account for the voltage drop across the thermostat
when heat is called for and the heat is on?

And I can see now what you mean, that the resistance of the
anticipator would lower the voltage to the control unit.

But it shouldn't lower it so much that the relay chatters and takes a
full minute to latch. With the previous control unit, the relay
didn't chatter -- it totally failed to close, until I put a weight on
the armature, and then as the armature went down, I could feel the
magnetism of the relay pull it the last millimater or two, and I could
hear it click. And iirc I could remove the weight and it would stay
closed until the thermostat turned the heat off.

I think I incorrectly concluded the relay was bad, perhaps shorted
windings that made it not as magnetic as it should have been, so I
replaced the conrtrol unit with my spare, and the new one is acting
similarly, but it chatters.

It seems to me the voltage must be low, but it starts at 27vac which
is fine for a 24v xformer. And I have to admit that losing 1.9v,
whether that is normal or excessive, still leaves 25.1 or 25.6 volts,
which ought to be enough to close the relay, right?

So what do you think is going on?


Does chattering mean that as the armature closes, something happens to
lower or interrupt the voltage that is closing the armature, and then
when it opens fully the voltage is restored? And that something
would normally be the load when the relay closes, except here the
load, the furnace oil-pum/blower-motor and the furnace sparker, is
straight from 110v, nothing to do with the 24volts.

look it up


Mark

There is an easy way to fix it - install an electronic thermostat
that has no resistor in the circuit. It uses a "logic" anticipator.

On Tuesday, November 3, 2015 at 7:37:32 PM UTC-6, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 13:02:40 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:


About fifteen years ago, I put an AC in my living
room window. Some Great Stuff foam around it, and
it was fine for a while.

Started to tilt a bit much, so I put some wood
brace under it. From the AC to the wooden deck.

"You know, ought to put a bracket under that, and
bolt to the trailer wall. The deck and the trailer
shift when frost hits, and the ground heaves."

Well, fifteen years and two hours later, I have
such a bracket. Not sure how long it will hold,
but it's good for now.

Wonder what else I'm delaying?
.
Christopher

Well, I stalled around the last two months of last winter and the
first month of this winter, about installing the primary control unit
for my furnace, and finally did it two nights ago.

Now it's starting to appear that it was not bad in the first place,
that the thermostat contacts have excessive resistance.

It chattered for 60 seconds before it started Sunday night, but it's
been so warm since then, it wouldn't have gone on.

At least I didn't pay for the control unit, got it free from a
matching furnace that a neibhbor was replacing.

I'm still surprised that a 24v typically-low-current thermostat would
have high resistance contacts tthat would lower the voltage to the
relay.

Do you have a mechanical thermostat that "does not" have mercury switches? o_O

[8~{} Uncle Stat Monster

Can you turn power off and measure the resistance of the contacts when held gently and then forcefully closed??? The resistance should be a fraction of an ohm, essentially the same value as when the two probes of your ohmmeter/voltmeter are touching each other directly.

On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 19:20:05 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Can you turn power off and measure the resistance of the contacts when held gently and then forcefully closed??? The resistance should be a fraction of an ohm, essentially the same value as when the two probes of your ohmmeter/voltmeter are touching each other directly.

Good idea. The thermostat is in a location I've made inaccessible.
I've hired Lewis and Clark, and Admiral Byrd, to make a path to it.

And as soon as I get there, 2 or 3 days**, I'll do just what you say.

**Admiral Byrd is still in the South Pole (or the North Pole, I can
never remember) and he's trapped by a giant flock of penguins, and he
says it will take him a couple days to get here. Lewis and Clark say
that Sakajaweia (sp?) is pregnant again and they both refuse to leave
her.

On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 18:03:18 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 3, 2015 at 7:37:32 PM UTC-6, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 13:02:40 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:


About fifteen years ago, I put an AC in my living
room window. Some Great Stuff foam around it, and
it was fine for a while.

Started to tilt a bit much, so I put some wood
brace under it. From the AC to the wooden deck.

"You know, ought to put a bracket under that, and
bolt to the trailer wall. The deck and the trailer
shift when frost hits, and the ground heaves."

Well, fifteen years and two hours later, I have
such a bracket. Not sure how long it will hold,
but it's good for now.

Wonder what else I'm delaying?
.
Christopher

Well, I stalled around the last two months of last winter and the
first month of this winter, about installing the primary control unit
for my furnace, and finally did it two nights ago.

Now it's starting to appear that it was not bad in the first place,
that the thermostat contacts have excessive resistance.

It chattered for 60 seconds before it started Sunday night, but it's
been so warm since then, it wouldn't have gone on.

At least I didn't pay for the control unit, got it free from a
matching furnace that a neibhbor was replacing.

I'm still surprised that a 24v typically-low-current thermostat would
have high resistance contacts tthat would lower the voltage to the
relay.

Do you have a mechanical thermostat that "does not" have mercury switches? o_O

Whenever a heat related appliance breaks, I save the thermostat, but
I've lost track of which are for heating and which are for fans.

Instead I dug out the original round Honeywell thermostat, model
CT87B***, and it doesn't seem to be working -- judging by the ohmmeter
I connected to it -- even though it was when I took it off the wall. I
had put a 2-conductor wire to the Red and White screws and when I set
the thermostat to heat, and hold it vertically, and set it to 80^,
when the house is 70, and I put an ohmmeter on the two wires, nothing
happens. It's still infinite.

***I think. No model number on the stat. But I doubt they spent more
for the stat than they had to when they built the house. 109 houses
all with the same heating and cooling. Mine was in neither the first
batch nor the last. The screws are outlined by colored lines. Two
of them appear to be outlined in Red, but there seems to be an R next
to one and an O next to the other.

It's easy to find instructions, but hard to find a detailed schematic
that goes beyond the baseplate. Tomorrow I will attempt to draw my
own, but there are a lot of metal traces on the base plate



[8~{} Uncle Stat Monster

On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 9:51:37 PM UTC-6, Micky wrote:
On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 18:03:18 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 3, 2015 at 7:37:32 PM UTC-6, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 13:02:40 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

About fifteen years ago, I put an AC in my living
room window. Some Great Stuff foam around it, and
it was fine for a while.

Started to tilt a bit much, so I put some wood
brace under it. From the AC to the wooden deck.

"You know, ought to put a bracket under that, and
bolt to the trailer wall. The deck and the trailer
shift when frost hits, and the ground heaves."

Well, fifteen years and two hours later, I have
such a bracket. Not sure how long it will hold,
but it's good for now.

Wonder what else I'm delaying?
.
Christopher

Well, I stalled around the last two months of last winter and the
first month of this winter, about installing the primary control unit
for my furnace, and finally did it two nights ago.

Now it's starting to appear that it was not bad in the first place,
that the thermostat contacts have excessive resistance.

It chattered for 60 seconds before it started Sunday night, but it's
been so warm since then, it wouldn't have gone on.

At least I didn't pay for the control unit, got it free from a
matching furnace that a neibhbor was replacing.

I'm still surprised that a 24v typically-low-current thermostat would
have high resistance contacts tthat would lower the voltage to the
relay.

Do you have a mechanical thermostat that "does not" have mercury switches? o_O

Whenever a heat related appliance breaks, I save the thermostat, but
I've lost track of which are for heating and which are for fans.

Instead I dug out the original round Honeywell thermostat, model
CT87B***, and it doesn't seem to be working -- judging by the ohmmeter
I connected to it -- even though it was when I took it off the wall. I
had put a 2-conductor wire to the Red and White screws and when I set
the thermostat to heat, and hold it vertically, and set it to 80^,
when the house is 70, and I put an ohmmeter on the two wires, nothing
happens. It's still infinite.

***I think. No model number on the stat. But I doubt they spent more
for the stat than they had to when they built the house. 109 houses
all with the same heating and cooling. Mine was in neither the first
batch nor the last. The screws are outlined by colored lines. Two
of them appear to be outlined in Red, but there seems to be an R next
to one and an O next to the other.

It's easy to find instructions, but hard to find a detailed schematic
that goes beyond the baseplate. Tomorrow I will attempt to draw my
own, but there are a lot of metal traces on the base plate

On the Honeywell thermostat the heat circuit is between "R" and "W". If there's a heat anticipator, you'll read a resistance between the R and W until the circuit closes when it should read zero ohms. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Thermo Monster

On 11/4/2015 10:41 PM, Micky wrote:
On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 19:20:05 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Can you turn power off and measure the resistance of the contacts when held gently and then forcefully closed??? The resistance should be a fraction of an ohm, essentially the same value as when the two probes of your ohmmeter/voltmeter are touching each other directly.

Good idea. The thermostat is in a location I've made inaccessible.
I've hired Lewis and Clark, and Admiral Byrd, to make a path to it.

And as soon as I get there, 2 or 3 days**, I'll do just what you say.

**Admiral Byrd is still in the South Pole (or the North Pole, I can
never remember) and he's trapped by a giant flock of penguins, and he
says it will take him a couple days to get here. Lewis and Clark say
that Sakajaweia (sp?) is pregnant again and they both refuse to leave
her.


Neil Armstrong missed his flight, and now he's
mooning us. (see who is old enough to get the
humor, here.)

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 18:12:40 -0500, wrote:

He also needs to check the voltage across the transformer secondary
with the furnace running.to be sure the trasformer is not weak (which
is my suspision.

He can get another transformer connect it to an old appliance cord, add
a few wirenuts, and connect the thermostat wires to it at the furnace.
Then just plug it in to do the test. That saves having to remove the old
one and all of that. Of course if it's determined that the transformer
is faulty, then wire the new one properly.

On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 21:23:11 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 9:51:37 PM UTC-6, Micky wrote:
On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 18:03:18 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 3, 2015 at 7:37:32 PM UTC-6, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 13:02:40 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

About fifteen years ago, I put an AC in my living
room window. Some Great Stuff foam around it, and
it was fine for a while.

Started to tilt a bit much, so I put some wood
brace under it. From the AC to the wooden deck.

"You know, ought to put a bracket under that, and
bolt to the trailer wall. The deck and the trailer
shift when frost hits, and the ground heaves."

Well, fifteen years and two hours later, I have
such a bracket. Not sure how long it will hold,
but it's good for now.

Wonder what else I'm delaying?
.
Christopher

Well, I stalled around the last two months of last winter and the
first month of this winter, about installing the primary control unit
for my furnace, and finally did it two nights ago.

Now it's starting to appear that it was not bad in the first place,
that the thermostat contacts have excessive resistance.

It chattered for 60 seconds before it started Sunday night, but it's
been so warm since then, it wouldn't have gone on.

At least I didn't pay for the control unit, got it free from a
matching furnace that a neibhbor was replacing.

I'm still surprised that a 24v typically-low-current thermostat would
have high resistance contacts tthat would lower the voltage to the
relay.

Do you have a mechanical thermostat that "does not" have mercury switches? o_O

Whenever a heat related appliance breaks, I save the thermostat, but
I've lost track of which are for heating and which are for fans.

Instead I dug out the original round Honeywell thermostat, model
CT87B***, and it doesn't seem to be working -- judging by the ohmmeter
I connected to it -- even though it was when I took it off the wall. I
had put a 2-conductor wire to the Red and White screws and when I set
the thermostat to heat, and hold it vertically, and set it to 80^,
when the house is 70, and I put an ohmmeter on the two wires, nothing
happens. It's still infinite.

And I tried setting to cool, and turning the stat the other direction
in each case, but always infinite.

***I think. No model number on the stat. But I doubt they spent more
for the stat than they had to when they built the house. 109 houses
all with the same heating and cooling. Mine was in neither the first
batch nor the last. The screws are outlined by colored lines. Two
of them appear to be outlined in Red, but there seems to be an R next
to one and an O next to the other.

It's easy to find instructions, but hard to find a detailed schematic
that goes beyond the baseplate. Tomorrow I will attempt to draw my
own, but there are a lot of metal traces on the base plate

On the Honeywell thermostat the heat circuit is between "R" and "W". If there's a heat anticipator, you'll read a resistance between the R and W until the circuit closes when it should read zero ohms. ^_^

Thanks. Because of the 'until' clause, that makes more sense. It
still implies the thermostat is broken, even though it worked fine
when I took it off, 32 years ago.

Now that a day has gone by, I've forgotten what all my measurements
were. I should have written them down. I will next time, if
replacing the thermostat doesn't fix everything. And I'm so sleepy
all the time even after a good night's sleep.

[8~{} Uncle Thermo Monster

On Thu, 05 Nov 2015 07:25:12 -0600, wrote:

On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 18:12:40 -0500, wrote:

He also needs to check the voltage across the transformer secondary
with the furnace running.to be sure the trasformer is not weak (which
is my suspision.

He can get another transformer connect it to an old appliance cord, add
a few wirenuts, and connect the thermostat wires to it at the furnace.
Then just plug it in to do the test. That saves having to remove the old
one and all of that. Of course if it's determined that the transformer
is faulty, then wire the new one properly.

Thanks for the help, and clare and Anita too. A couple days of warm
weather here, with outside chores to do, so it will be a few days
before I can get back to you all.

Then the question, will you see my posts if they are in the same old
thread, or should I start a new one which is generally against the
rules?

On Thu, 05 Nov 2015 13:31:22 -0500, Micky
wrote:


Thanks for the help, and clare and Anita too. A couple days of warm
weather here, with outside chores to do, so it will be a few days
before I can get back to you all.

Then the question, will you see my posts if they are in the same old
thread, or should I start a new one which is generally against the
rules?

It's not so much "rules". It's just sensible to stay with the original
thread, or else people get lost. Kind of like a magazine that would have
half an article in January and the other half in the Feburary edition!
Even tv shows that have "part 1" and next week they have "part 2". I
hate that!!! Often I dont see part2, because I forget about it or have
other plans....

On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 13:02:40 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:


About fifteen years ago, I put an AC in my living
room window. Some Great Stuff foam around it, and
it was fine for a while.

Started to tilt a bit much, so I put some wood
brace under it. From the AC to the wooden deck.

"You know, ought to put a bracket under that, and
bolt to the trailer wall. The deck and the trailer
shift when frost hits, and the ground heaves."

Well, fifteen years and two hours later, I have
such a bracket. Not sure how long it will hold,
but it's good for now.

Wonder what else I'm delaying?

This evening after 8 years, I finally moved the phone line from the
window to a hole in the floor.

I had had intermittent problems with the interior wiring. The jacks
nearest the indoor phone connection worked, but not some others.

Plus my computer was upstairs and it seemed a good idea to make the
first stop from the NID the computer, so muliple connections wouldn't
lower the speed. So I ran a wire from my office to the bedroom next
to it, out the 2nd floor window, down to the NID. A year later I
tried one more time to fix the interior connections and by golly,
everything was fine. I used that for a couple more years until it
failed again, and this time I switched to the window wire with no
plans to go back.

I was planing to drill a hole through the window frame, but something
must have held me back. A month ago it occurred to me I could drill
through the bedroom floor** and come out in the overhang (the second
floor overhangs the first by 23 inches in the front, by about 14 in
the back.) and it would look better, stay drier, and not flop around
in the wind like it's been doing for 6 years.

**But I actually drilled up from under the overhang. That way I knew
where it would come out outside, but I didn't worry enough about where
it woudl come out inside! I had forgotten about all the boxes on the
far side of the bed, but luckily, I didn't drill into any of them.
Instead the bit came out under the bed! So how was I going to run
the wire down the hole? I thought about moving the bed but there
was no room. Thought about lifting up the mattress and the box spring
to lean against the wall, or against the wall with the window, or the
opposite walls. All bad ideas.

How about crawling under the bed with a flashlight with the mattress
and spring resting on my head? Another bad idea.

So went downstairs, took a 4-foot drill bit, threaded some button-hole
thread through the hole in the stem, and pushed that up the hole. Had
substantial trouble finding the upper hole but when I did, I rested
the drill bit on some vines or the thermometer bracket.

Then went upstairs, lay face down on bed, pulled out a couple feet of
the button-hole thread and tied it to something bigger than the 1/4"
hole, and cut the thread from the bit.

Then downstairs to lower the bit and disconnect the phone wire.

Then upstairs to reel in the phone wire through the window, wrap the
ends together and around the thread, put some tape on the end to make
the thread come out at the point, and then try to push the thing in
the hole in the floor. I couldn't find the hole, even though the
thread led to it. (The thread kept getting twisted around the wire.)

Downstairs again, rolled the extra thread on the spool and left it
dangling.

Upstairs, the weight of the spool was enough to pull in the spare
thread, so I could find the hole in the floor. The 4-conductor wire
is actually smaller than the hole, and without the white sheath, it's
even smaller, and the four wires wrapped together came to a point, and
the tape had barely any thickness, but I still had trouble pushing the
wire through the hole. But i got it and I pushed an inch or two in.

Downstairs again and pulled on the thread to get the wire to come
down. It was stuck at first, but tugging just a little broke it free
and it found and came through the bottom hole easily. Pulled about
10 feet throug, enough to attach to the NID, but needed a foot or two
more to do it right.

Upstairs, again I had to lie face-down on the bed and reach under it
to work, and the wire turned out to be stuck under a box under the
bed, and whenever I lay on the bed, it put much of my weight on the
box so I coudlnt' pull the wire. But from the foot of the bed I was
able to pull it out from the box (it was only under the box because I
pulled from outside.)

So tomorrow I'll pull out another foot or two, close the door to the
NID and caulk the hole in the overhang.

An 8-year project completed.

On Thu, 05 Nov 2015 18:19:48 -0600, wrote:

On Thu, 05 Nov 2015 13:31:22 -0500, Micky
wrote:


Thanks for the help, and clare and Anita too. A couple days of warm
weather here, with outside chores to do, so it will be a few days
before I can get back to you all.

Then the question, will you see my posts if they are in the same old
thread, or should I start a new one which is generally against the
rules?

It's not so much "rules". It's just sensible to stay with the original
thread, or else people get lost.

But don't some get lost by staying in the original thread? The way
I read most of the time, the more threads and the more posts at the
bottom of the screen (where new threads go), the higher up into the
air above the screen (if you look at it that way) the old thread goes.
Periodically I scroll up to see if there have been new posts in a
thread I've been reading, but no matter how high I go, I often don't
scroll up high enough. Days or weeks later I find out someone posted
in it, especially if there was a period of days when no one posted.

Kind of like a magazine that would have
half an article in January and the other half in the Feburary edition!
Even tv shows that have "part 1" and next week they have "part 2". I
hate that!!! Often I dont see part2, because I forget about it or have
other plans....

That would annoy me too.

On 11/5/2015 1:28 PM, Micky wrote:

Now that a day has gone by, I've forgotten what all my measurements
were. I should have written them down. I will next time, if
replacing the thermostat doesn't fix everything. And I'm so sleepy
all the time even after a good night's sleep.

Sleepy all the time? Carbon monoxide, maybe?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 06:16:50 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/5/2015 1:28 PM, Micky wrote:

Now that a day has gone by, I've forgotten what all my measurements
were. I should have written them down. I will next time, if
replacing the thermostat doesn't fix everything. And I'm so sleepy
all the time even after a good night's sleep.

Sleepy all the time? Carbon monoxide, maybe?

No, it was the summer too, and even now the furnace hasn't been on for
a week. 79 degrees yesterday, 65 today. Baltimore

On 11/7/2015 12:15 PM, Micky wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 06:16:50 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/5/2015 1:28 PM, Micky wrote:

Now that a day has gone by, I've forgotten what all my measurements
were. I should have written them down. I will next time, if
replacing the thermostat doesn't fix everything. And I'm so sleepy
all the time even after a good night's sleep.

Sleepy all the time? Carbon monoxide, maybe?

No, it was the summer too, and even now the furnace hasn't been on for
a week. 79 degrees yesterday, 65 today. Baltimore


Thanks for lowering my concern. You're too
valuable to lose.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sat, 7 Nov 2015 13:16:18 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/7/2015 12:15 PM, Micky wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 06:16:50 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/5/2015 1:28 PM, Micky wrote:

Now that a day has gone by, I've forgotten what all my measurements
were. I should have written them down. I will next time, if
replacing the thermostat doesn't fix everything. And I'm so sleepy
all the time even after a good night's sleep.

Sleepy all the time? Carbon monoxide, maybe?

No, it was the summer too, and even now the furnace hasn't been on for
a week. 79 degrees yesterday, 65 today. Baltimore


Thanks for lowering my concern. You're too
valuable to lose.

Wow, that's very nice.

On 11/7/2015 8:25 PM, Micky wrote:
On Sat, 7 Nov 2015 13:16:18 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/7/2015 12:15 PM, Micky wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 06:16:50 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/5/2015 1:28 PM, Micky wrote:
Sleepy all the time? Carbon monoxide, maybe?

No, it was the summer too, and even now the furnace hasn't been on for
a week. 79 degrees yesterday, 65 today. Baltimore


Thanks for lowering my concern. You're too
valuable to lose.

Wow, that's very nice.


You are one of the few polite people on
this list, you big stinky poop head idiot.
I enjoy your common sense answers, you
total moron.

Of course, I'm less polite than you, some
days. Hope you understnd, pea brain.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..