On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 21:23:11 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 9:51:37 PM UTC-6, Micky wrote:
On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 18:03:18 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 3, 2015 at 7:37:32 PM UTC-6, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 13:02:40 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

About fifteen years ago, I put an AC in my living
room window. Some Great Stuff foam around it, and
it was fine for a while.

Started to tilt a bit much, so I put some wood
brace under it. From the AC to the wooden deck.

"You know, ought to put a bracket under that, and
bolt to the trailer wall. The deck and the trailer
shift when frost hits, and the ground heaves."

Well, fifteen years and two hours later, I have
such a bracket. Not sure how long it will hold,
but it's good for now.

Wonder what else I'm delaying?
.
Christopher

Well, I stalled around the last two months of last winter and the
first month of this winter, about installing the primary control unit
for my furnace, and finally did it two nights ago.

Now it's starting to appear that it was not bad in the first place,
that the thermostat contacts have excessive resistance.

It chattered for 60 seconds before it started Sunday night, but it's
been so warm since then, it wouldn't have gone on.

At least I didn't pay for the control unit, got it free from a
matching furnace that a neibhbor was replacing.

I'm still surprised that a 24v typically-low-current thermostat would
have high resistance contacts tthat would lower the voltage to the
relay.

Do you have a mechanical thermostat that "does not" have mercury switches? o_O

Whenever a heat related appliance breaks, I save the thermostat, but
I've lost track of which are for heating and which are for fans.

Instead I dug out the original round Honeywell thermostat, model
CT87B***, and it doesn't seem to be working -- judging by the ohmmeter
I connected to it -- even though it was when I took it off the wall. I
had put a 2-conductor wire to the Red and White screws and when I set
the thermostat to heat, and hold it vertically, and set it to 80^,
when the house is 70, and I put an ohmmeter on the two wires, nothing
happens. It's still infinite.

And I tried setting to cool, and turning the stat the other direction
in each case, but always infinite.

***I think. No model number on the stat. But I doubt they spent more
for the stat than they had to when they built the house. 109 houses
all with the same heating and cooling. Mine was in neither the first
batch nor the last. The screws are outlined by colored lines. Two
of them appear to be outlined in Red, but there seems to be an R next
to one and an O next to the other.

It's easy to find instructions, but hard to find a detailed schematic
that goes beyond the baseplate. Tomorrow I will attempt to draw my
own, but there are a lot of metal traces on the base plate

On the Honeywell thermostat the heat circuit is between "R" and "W". If there's a heat anticipator, you'll read a resistance between the R and W until the circuit closes when it should read zero ohms. ^_^

Thanks. Because of the 'until' clause, that makes more sense. It
still implies the thermostat is broken, even though it worked fine
when I took it off, 32 years ago.

Now that a day has gone by, I've forgotten what all my measurements
were. I should have written them down. I will next time, if
replacing the thermostat doesn't fix everything. And I'm so sleepy
all the time even after a good night's sleep.

[8~{} Uncle Thermo Monster