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#1
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
I have a 17.5 briggs and stratton intek on my craftsman push mower. Lol just joking of course. It's a rider. I am into old school and also having starter issues. Back in the day my grandpa had a boat engine that was electric start but one day we were stuck in the middle of the lake with a dead battery so he pulled the engine cover off and grabbed a piece of rope from under the seat and wrapped it around the flywheel and after a good jerk we were going again. I'm looking to do the same thing to my mower if I can find the right parts. I mostly need a pulley with a notch for wrapping a rope around. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
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#2
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 17:49:04 -0700 (PDT), ken baker
wrote: I have a 17.5 briggs and stratton intek on my craftsman push mower. Lol just joking of course. It's a rider. I am into old school and also having starter issues. Back in the day my grandpa had a boat engine that was electric start but one day we were stuck in the middle of the lake with a dead battery so he pulled the engine cover off and grabbed a piece of rope from under the seat and wrapped it around the flywheel and after a good jerk we were going again. I'm looking to do the same thing to my mower if I can find the right parts. I mostly need a pulley with a notch for wrapping a rope around. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. Post a photo of the flywheel - top and side views showing the top. Post on a free hosting site and then the link back here. Show the flywheel bolt for sure. Then I might have a suggestion. |
#3
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On 7/12/2015 2:42 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 17:49:04 -0700 (PDT), ken baker wrote: I have a 17.5 briggs and stratton intek on my craftsman push mower. Lol just joking of course. It's a rider. I am into old school and also having starter issues. Back in the day my grandpa had a boat engine that was electric start but one day we were stuck in the middle of the lake with a dead battery so he pulled the engine cover off and grabbed a piece of rope from under the seat and wrapped it around the flywheel and after a good jerk we were going again. I'm looking to do the same thing to my mower if I can find the right parts. I mostly need a pulley with a notch for wrapping a rope around. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. Post a photo of the flywheel - top and side views showing the top. Post on a free hosting site and then the link back here. Show the flywheel bolt for sure. Then I might have a suggestion. I tried to pull start a snow blower (maybe 8 HP) one time, and didn't have the shoulder power for it. I wonder how likely it is to pull start such an engine? -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#4
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 17:13:13 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 7/12/2015 2:42 PM, Oren wrote: On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 17:49:04 -0700 (PDT), ken baker wrote: I have a 17.5 briggs and stratton intek on my craftsman push mower. Lol just joking of course. It's a rider. I am into old school and also having starter issues. Back in the day my grandpa had a boat engine that was electric start but one day we were stuck in the middle of the lake with a dead battery so he pulled the engine cover off and grabbed a piece of rope from under the seat and wrapped it around the flywheel and after a good jerk we were going again. I'm looking to do the same thing to my mower if I can find the right parts. I mostly need a pulley with a notch for wrapping a rope around. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. Post a photo of the flywheel - top and side views showing the top. Post on a free hosting site and then the link back here. Show the flywheel bolt for sure. Then I might have a suggestion. I tried to pull start a snow blower (maybe 8 HP) one time, and didn't have the shoulder power for it. I wonder how likely it is to pull start such an engine? I remember hard to start B&S mower engines, Granddaddy had an electric motor mounted on a board, pulley with a V-belt. Spin that motor until is was adjusted and running, Beats hell out of pulling a rope. YMMV |
#5
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message news Then I might have a suggestion. I tried to pull start a snow blower (maybe 8 HP) one time, and didn't have the shoulder power for it. I wonder how likely it is to pull start such an engine? Depends on how the engine is set up. I have a 10 HP generator that is easy to pull start. I never got into how it works,but some pull start engines have a method of reducing the compression for easy pull starting. |
#6
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 17:13:13 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 7/12/2015 2:42 PM, Oren wrote: On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 17:49:04 -0700 (PDT), ken baker wrote: I have a 17.5 briggs and stratton intek on my craftsman push mower. Lol just joking of course. It's a rider. I am into old school and also having starter issues. Back in the day my grandpa had a boat engine that was electric start but one day we were stuck in the middle of the lake with a dead battery so he pulled the engine cover off and grabbed a piece of rope from under the seat and wrapped it around the flywheel and after a good jerk we were going again. I'm looking to do the same thing to my mower if I can find the right parts. I mostly need a pulley with a notch for wrapping a rope around. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. Post a photo of the flywheel - top and side views showing the top. Post on a free hosting site and then the link back here. Show the flywheel bolt for sure. Then I might have a suggestion. I tried to pull start a snow blower (maybe 8 HP) one time, and didn't have the shoulder power for it. I wonder how likely it is to pull start such an engine? I've "pull started" lot's of larger engines - like my 1928 Chevy, my 1949 VW, an O-200 airplane engine, and an old Massey Harris 44, "for starters" None with an actual rope, however.. |
#7
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On Sunday, July 12, 2015 at 4:36:58 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 17:13:13 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: On 7/12/2015 2:42 PM, Oren wrote: On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 17:49:04 -0700 (PDT), ken baker wrote: I have a 17.5 briggs and stratton intek on my craftsman push mower. Lol just joking of course. It's a rider. I am into old school and also having starter issues. Back in the day my grandpa had a boat engine that was electric start but one day we were stuck in the middle of the lake with a dead battery so he pulled the engine cover off and grabbed a piece of rope from under the seat and wrapped it around the flywheel and after a good jerk we were going again. I'm looking to do the same thing to my mower if I can find the right parts. I mostly need a pulley with a notch for wrapping a rope around. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. Post a photo of the flywheel - top and side views showing the top. Post on a free hosting site and then the link back here. Show the flywheel bolt for sure. Then I might have a suggestion. I tried to pull start a snow blower (maybe 8 HP) one time, and didn't have the shoulder power for it. I wonder how likely it is to pull start such an engine? I remember hard to start B&S mower engines, Granddaddy had an electric motor mounted on a board, pulley with a V-belt. Spin that motor until is was adjusted and running, Beats hell out of pulling a rope. YMMV Years ago, I remember an ad for an attachment for an electric drill that would spin up a lawnmower to start it. It was one of those ads in the back of Popular Science and Popular Mechanics magazines. I don't quite remember how it worked but it would be simple on a mower that used a rope starter. 8-) [8~{} Uncle Mower Monster |
#8
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
Uncle Monster wrote:
On Sunday, July 12, 2015 at 4:36:58 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote: On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 17:13:13 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: On 7/12/2015 2:42 PM, Oren wrote: On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 17:49:04 -0700 (PDT), ken baker wrote: I have a 17.5 briggs and stratton intek on my craftsman push mower. Lol just joking of course. It's a rider. I am into old school and also having starter issues. Back in the day my grandpa had a boat engine that was electric start but one day we were stuck in the middle of the lake with a dead battery so he pulled the engine cover off and grabbed a piece of rope from under the seat and wrapped it around the flywheel and after a good jerk we were going again. I'm looking to do the same thing to my mower if I can find the right parts. I mostly need a pulley with a notch for wrapping a rope around. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. Post a photo of the flywheel - top and side views showing the top. Post on a free hosting site and then the link back here. Show the flywheel bolt for sure. Then I might have a suggestion. I tried to pull start a snow blower (maybe 8 HP) one time, and didn't have the shoulder power for it. I wonder how likely it is to pull start such an engine? I remember hard to start B&S mower engines, Granddaddy had an electric motor mounted on a board, pulley with a V-belt. Spin that motor until is was adjusted and running, Beats hell out of pulling a rope. YMMV Years ago, I remember an ad for an attachment for an electric drill that would spin up a lawnmower to start it. It was one of those ads in the back of Popular Science and Popular Mechanics magazines. I don't quite remember how it worked but it would be simple on a mower that used a rope starter. 8-) [8~{} Uncle Mower Monster Because the starter rope on my tiller kept jamming , and because the motor can be "difficult" to keep running when it's cold ... I cut a hole in the top of the fan shroud , removed the rewind assembly , and drive the original overrunning clutch with a socket in an adapter chucked in my battery drill . I now cuss that machine a LOT less . -- Snag |
#9
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On 7/12/2015 5:36 PM, Oren wrote:
I remember hard to start B&S mower engines, Granddaddy had an electric motor mounted on a board, pulley with a V-belt. Spin that motor until is was adjusted and running, Beats hell out of pulling a rope. YMMV Had a lawn mower with Tecumseh engine, had exposed flywheel nut. I used a drill, socket, and sawed off a socket extension. Much easier than rewinding the rope over and again. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#10
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On Sunday, July 12, 2015 at 5:49:49 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message news Then I might have a suggestion. I tried to pull start a snow blower (maybe 8 HP) one time, and didn't have the shoulder power for it. I wonder how likely it is to pull start such an engine? Depends on how the engine is set up. I have a 10 HP generator that is easy to pull start. I never got into how it works,but some pull start engines have a method of reducing the compression for easy pull starting. That is definitely true. As I reported here before, a neighbor was having trouble starting his lawn tractor, where the starter would engage, but not be capable of spinning it. After trying to jump it directly to the starter with a new car battery, we concluded it must be the starter. Wrong. He had Sears service come fix it and they told him it needed a valve adjustment. Which I took to mean that they have some kind of compression release that's involved and the adjustment fixed that. Thing I learned from that is if it looks like it's a bad starter, make sure to remove the spark plug and see if it will spin that way. |
#11
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 08:34:50 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 7/12/2015 5:36 PM, Oren wrote: I remember hard to start B&S mower engines, Granddaddy had an electric motor mounted on a board, pulley with a V-belt. Spin that motor until is was adjusted and running, Beats hell out of pulling a rope. YMMV Had a lawn mower with Tecumseh engine, had exposed flywheel nut. I used a drill, socket, and sawed off a socket extension. Much easier than rewinding the rope over and again. You want to locktite or safety wire the flywheel nut though, because when the engine starts and overtakes the drill-motor ir cam (and very often does) take the nut off very quickly. How do I know? BTDTGTTS |
#12
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
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#14
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 11:30:28 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote: wrote: On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 08:34:50 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: On 7/12/2015 5:36 PM, Oren wrote: I remember hard to start B&S mower engines, Granddaddy had an electric motor mounted on a board, pulley with a V-belt. Spin that motor until is was adjusted and running, Beats hell out of pulling a rope. YMMV Had a lawn mower with Tecumseh engine, had exposed flywheel nut. I used a drill, socket, and sawed off a socket extension. Much easier than rewinding the rope over and again. You want to locktite or safety wire the flywheel nut though, because when the engine starts and overtakes the drill-motor ir cam (and very often does) take the nut off very quickly. How do I know? BTDTGTTS That's why I left the overrunning clutch that useta be engaged by the rope reel . But on MOST engines (absolutely All I have seen/worked on), the flywheel nut is beyond the recoil. It is right on the crankshaft, and the recoil workis by gripping the inside of the "hub" which is fastened to the flywheel/crankshaft by the nut, or with several small bolts to the flywheel itself. What kind of engine were you able to use the recoil over-running clutch on??? Just curious. |
#15
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 12:58:10 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 7/13/2015 11:56 AM, wrote: On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 08:34:50 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: Had a lawn mower with Tecumseh engine, had exposed flywheel nut. I used a drill, socket, and sawed off a socket extension. Much easier than rewinding the rope over and again. You want to locktite or safety wire the flywheel nut though, because when the engine starts and overtakes the drill-motor ir cam (and very often does) take the nut off very quickly. How do I know? BTDTGTTS I could feel the motor starting, and pull the drill and socket off. Never was an issue. Virtually every time I've tried it the FIRST power pulse of the starting engine spun the nut loose unless I had it stuck on with loctite. |
#16
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On 7/13/2015 1:32 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 12:58:10 -0400, Stormin Mormon Had a lawn mower with Tecumseh engine, had exposed flywheel nut. I used a drill, socket, and sawed off a socket extension. Much easier than rewinding the rope over and again. I could feel the motor starting, and pull the drill and socket off. Never was an issue. Virtually every time I've tried it the FIRST power pulse of the starting engine spun the nut loose unless I had it stuck on with loctite. I took a small engine repair course, and then repaired several dozen small engines. Never heard of, nor ever done locktite on a flywheel nut. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#17
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 11:30:28 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: wrote: On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 08:34:50 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: On 7/12/2015 5:36 PM, Oren wrote: I remember hard to start B&S mower engines, Granddaddy had an electric motor mounted on a board, pulley with a V-belt. Spin that motor until is was adjusted and running, Beats hell out of pulling a rope. YMMV Had a lawn mower with Tecumseh engine, had exposed flywheel nut. I used a drill, socket, and sawed off a socket extension. Much easier than rewinding the rope over and again. You want to locktite or safety wire the flywheel nut though, because when the engine starts and overtakes the drill-motor ir cam (and very often does) take the nut off very quickly. How do I know? BTDTGTTS That's why I left the overrunning clutch that useta be engaged by the rope reel . But on MOST engines (absolutely All I have seen/worked on), the flywheel nut is beyond the recoil. It is right on the crankshaft, and the recoil workis by gripping the inside of the "hub" which is fastened to the flywheel/crankshaft by the nut, or with several small bolts to the flywheel itself. What kind of engine were you able to use the recoil over-running clutch on??? Just curious. It's an older Briggs vertical shaft . The o/r clutch is part of the flywheel nut . Might be easy to find the part number and see if it'll go in place of the flywheel nut on other models ... -- Snag |
#18
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 15:59:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 7/13/2015 1:32 PM, wrote: On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 12:58:10 -0400, Stormin Mormon Had a lawn mower with Tecumseh engine, had exposed flywheel nut. I used a drill, socket, and sawed off a socket extension. Much easier than rewinding the rope over and again. I could feel the motor starting, and pull the drill and socket off. Never was an issue. Virtually every time I've tried it the FIRST power pulse of the starting engine spun the nut loose unless I had it stuck on with loctite. I took a small engine repair course, and then repaired several dozen small engines. Never heard of, nor ever done locktite on a flywheel nut. Well, I worked as a mechanic for over 20 years and did my apprenticeship at a garage that did a lot of small engine work as well as farm equipment and automobiles. We were a Boa Ski snowmobile, Benelli motorbike, and Ariens yard equipment dealer as well as cockshutt/white farm equipment and papec power choring deale, among others. Locktite on the flywheel nut is virtually the only way to keep it from coming off when using a drill-motor (or even an impact wrench) to start a 4 stroke engine. You cansometimes get away with it on a 2 stroke because the starting/low speed torque is generally lower. I've done it on Briggs, Techumseh, Lauson, Clinton, Honda and chinese clone engines and have had the nut come loose more often than not. |
#19
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 16:03:25 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote: wrote: On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 11:30:28 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: wrote: On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 08:34:50 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: On 7/12/2015 5:36 PM, Oren wrote: I remember hard to start B&S mower engines, Granddaddy had an electric motor mounted on a board, pulley with a V-belt. Spin that motor until is was adjusted and running, Beats hell out of pulling a rope. YMMV Had a lawn mower with Tecumseh engine, had exposed flywheel nut. I used a drill, socket, and sawed off a socket extension. Much easier than rewinding the rope over and again. You want to locktite or safety wire the flywheel nut though, because when the engine starts and overtakes the drill-motor ir cam (and very often does) take the nut off very quickly. How do I know? BTDTGTTS That's why I left the overrunning clutch that useta be engaged by the rope reel . But on MOST engines (absolutely All I have seen/worked on), the flywheel nut is beyond the recoil. It is right on the crankshaft, and the recoil workis by gripping the inside of the "hub" which is fastened to the flywheel/crankshaft by the nut, or with several small bolts to the flywheel itself. What kind of engine were you able to use the recoil over-running clutch on??? Just curious. It's an older Briggs vertical shaft . The o/r clutch is part of the flywheel nut . Might be easy to find the part number and see if it'll go in place of the flywheel nut on other models ... OK, I know the one you mean.. I had forgotten about those clutches - you use a big 8 point socket on it and it won't back off when it starts. It is more accurate to say the nut is part of the clutch on those critters. |
#20
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On 7/13/2015 8:32 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 15:59:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon I took a small engine repair course, and then repaired several dozen small engines. Never heard of, nor ever done locktite on a flywheel nut. Well, I worked as a mechanic for over 20 years and did my apprenticeship at a garage that did a lot of small engine work as well as farm equipment and automobiles. We were a Boa Ski snowmobile, Benelli motorbike, and Ariens yard equipment dealer as well as cockshutt/white farm equipment and papec power choring deale, among others. Locktite on the flywheel nut is virtually the only way to keep it from coming off when using a drill-motor (or even an impact wrench) to start a 4 stroke engine. You cansometimes get away with it on a 2 stroke because the starting/low speed torque is generally lower. I've done it on Briggs, Techumseh, Lauson, Clinton, Honda and chinese clone engines and have had the nut come loose more often than not. Any idea what you were doing wrong, all those years? -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#21
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17.5 Briggs and Stratton
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 22:17:04 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 7/13/2015 8:32 PM, wrote: On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 15:59:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon I took a small engine repair course, and then repaired several dozen small engines. Never heard of, nor ever done locktite on a flywheel nut. Well, I worked as a mechanic for over 20 years and did my apprenticeship at a garage that did a lot of small engine work as well as farm equipment and automobiles. We were a Boa Ski snowmobile, Benelli motorbike, and Ariens yard equipment dealer as well as cockshutt/white farm equipment and papec power choring deale, among others. Locktite on the flywheel nut is virtually the only way to keep it from coming off when using a drill-motor (or even an impact wrench) to start a 4 stroke engine. You cansometimes get away with it on a 2 stroke because the starting/low speed torque is generally lower. I've done it on Briggs, Techumseh, Lauson, Clinton, Honda and chinese clone engines and have had the nut come loose more often than not. Any idea what you were doing wrong, all those years? Sure - using the wrong tool for the wrong job. |
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