My pool has a Ground Fault Interuptor that has two plugs but also covers
the pump, light and automatic cover motors. It isn't currently working.
When I push the reset in, there is no click and nothing happens (even
with everything turned off for the winter, the incidcator lights on the
auto cover should show). Before when I have had problems with the
circuit, it would at least catch and you would hear a click before it
kicked off again. This time, push in the reset and it just comes right
back out again, no click or any kind of reaction.
Does this sound like it is most likely the GFI itself?
--
³Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive,
but what they conceal is vital.²
‹ Aaron Levenstein

On 3/16/2015 9:36 AM, Kurt Ullman wrote:
My pool has a Ground Fault Interuptor that has two plugs but also covers
the pump, light and automatic cover motors. It isn't currently working.
When I push the reset in, there is no click and nothing happens (even
with everything turned off for the winter, the incidcator lights on the
auto cover should show). Before when I have had problems with the
circuit, it would at least catch and you would hear a click before it
kicked off again. This time, push in the reset and it just comes right
back out again, no click or any kind of reaction.
Does this sound like it is most likely the GFI itself?


My Mom's house had a GFCI trip, last week. What
worked for me was to unplug every thing, and then
the reset worked. I plugged one in, and stayed on.
Plugged other wire in, and tripped. So, that
helped me to troubleshoot.

I'd suggest to remove all the loads, and see if the
GFCI resets. Add loads one at a time, as I did.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Monday, March 16, 2015 at 8:36:05 AM UTC-5, Kurt Ullman wrote:
My pool has a Ground Fault Interuptor that has two plugs but also covers
the pump, light and automatic cover motors. It isn't currently working.
When I push the reset in, there is no click and nothing happens (even
with everything turned off for the winter, the incidcator lights on the
auto cover should show). Before when I have had problems with the
circuit, it would at least catch and you would hear a click before it
kicked off again. This time, push in the reset and it just comes right
back out again, no click or any kind of reaction.
Does this sound like it is most likely the GFI itself?
--
³Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive,
but what they conceal is vital.²
€¹ Aaron Levenstein

It won't reset without power to it...is there a green (or red) indicator LED?

In article ,
Stormin Mormon wrote:

I'd suggest to remove all the loads, and see if the
GFCI resets. Add loads one at a time, as I did.
I tried that. The pool is closed down with pump and light off. The
only load from the cover is the indicator lights unless actually moving
it on or off. I did disconnect the cover motor because that had been
causing a problem a couple of years ago, but corrected after they
changed out a bad motor.
The fact that it isn't catching (which is did for a couple of
seconds even with the bad motor) is the reason I think it is the GFI
itself.
--
³Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive,
but what they conceal is vital.²
‹ Aaron Levenstein

In ,
Kurt Ullman typed:
In article ,
Stormin Mormon wrote:

I'd suggest to remove all the loads, and see if the
GFCI resets. Add loads one at a time, as I did.
I tried that. The pool is closed down with pump and light off. The
only load from the cover is the indicator lights unless actually
moving it on or off. I did disconnect the cover motor because that
had been causing a problem a couple of years ago, but corrected after
they changed out a bad motor.
The fact that it isn't catching (which is did for a couple of
seconds even with the bad motor) is the reason I think it is the GFI
itself.

Of course, I assume that you checked the circuit breaker for that circuit to
make sure that it has not tripped and/or gone bad and needs to be reset or
replaced.

I couldn't tell for sure if you mean that the indicator light on the GFI is
or is not present and lit -- is it?

If it were me, I would want to first confirm that power is getting to the
GFI. If it is, then my guess would be that the GFI is bad and needs to be
replaced.

In article , "TomR"
wrote:


I couldn't tell for sure if you mean that the indicator light on the GFI is
or is not present and lit -- is it?
not present.

If it were me, I would want to first confirm that power is getting to the
GFI. If it is, then my guess would be that the GFI is bad and needs to be
replaced.

The breaker isn't tripped. Should I check the leads with a volt meter or
something else or just assume for now that electricity is getting
through.
--
³Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive,
but what they conceal is vital.²
‹ Aaron Levenstein

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 09:36:01 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote:

My pool has a Ground Fault Interuptor that has two plugs but also covers
the pump, light and automatic cover motors. It isn't currently working.
When I push the reset in, there is no click and nothing happens (even
with everything turned off for the winter, the incidcator lights on the
auto cover should show)

Should show what?

Anyhow, if you want to test the receptacle, remember that it is a GROUND
fault recept, and what you did doesn't narrow the problem down. You
need to unplug everything and then try to reset it.

. Before when I have had problems with the
circuit, it would at least catch and you would hear a click before it
kicked off again. This time, push in the reset and it just comes right
back out again, no click or any kind of reaction.

Why do you suppose that is? You don't know? Neither do I.

Does it click after you've unplugged everything? Yes or no, now
plug a lamp, a trouble light, or a radio into the recept and see if if
works.

Does this sound like it is most likely the GFI itself?

Who can tell? You need to do more testing.

In ,
Kurt Ullman typed:
In article , "TomR"
wrote:


I couldn't tell for sure if you mean that the indicator light on the
GFI is or is not present and lit -- is it?

not present.

I am not sure, but I think that no GFI indicator light being on means either
there is no power to the GFI, or possibly that the GFI itself is bad. Duh,
that probably doesn't help much because that is mostly likely what you are
trying to figure out -- i.e. is there no power or is the GFI defective.

If it were me, I would want to first confirm that power is getting
to the GFI. If it is, then my guess would be that the GFI is bad
and needs to be replaced.

The breaker isn't tripped. Should I check the leads with a volt meter
or something else or just assume for now that electricity is getting
through.

I guess that depends on what you have available. If you have any kind of
tester, you could use that. Or, if you can fashion any lamp or light with a
cord in a way to allow you to use the cord itself to touch the incoming line
wires to see if the light comes on, that would work. I sometimes use one of
those light bulb sockets that have just two wires coming out of the bottom
(I forget what they are called) and use that as a tester. I usually use
those light bulb sockets with two wires (whatever they are called) to wire
temporary lights when I am doing electrical work on a property. Or, you
could take off the GFI completely and use the two line supply wires to
carefully touch the two prongs of a lamp plug and see if the lamp lights.
Or, if you have another regular receptacle around (not GFI), you could try
putting that in temporarily to replace the GFI and see if things plugged
into that work etc. Or, just buy another GFI, replace the existing one, and
see if that solves the problem.

Does this sound like it is most likely the GFI itself?

Who can tell? You need to do more testing.

Op, the symptoms you desribed are likely caused by 1 of 3 problems.

We cannot tell from here, which one of the three is your case.

1) the power supply to the GFI is off

2) there is a ground fault in the load and the GFI trips as soon as power is applied

3) the GFI itself is defective


Mark

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 10:10:44 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

In ,
Kurt Ullman typed:
In article ,
Stormin Mormon wrote:

I'd suggest to remove all the loads, and see if the
GFCI resets. Add loads one at a time, as I did.
I tried that. The pool is closed down with pump and light off. The

SM wasn't quite clear enough. By remove, he means UNPLUG. "Off" is
not the same as unplugged.***

only load from the cover is the indicator lights unless actually
moving it on or off. I did disconnect the cover motor because that

Which implies you didn't disconnect anything else.

had been causing a problem a couple of years ago, but corrected after
they changed out a bad motor.
The fact that it isn't catching (which is did for a couple of
seconds even with the bad motor)

It woudl be fair to extrapolate from that if there were no other tests
to run, but there are other tests to run.

is the reason I think it is the GFI
itself.

Of course, I assume that you checked the circuit breaker for that circuit to
make sure that it has not tripped and/or gone bad and needs to be reset or
replaced.

That too.

I couldn't tell for sure if you mean that the indicator light on the GFI is
or is not present and lit -- is it?

If it were me, I would want to first confirm that power is getting to the
GFI. If it is, then my guess would be that the GFI is bad and needs to be
replaced.

***I don't know how in practice pools are wired, or who wired this one.
But in theory and perhaps in fact, there may be receptacles downstream
from this one which will also trip this one, for ground fault reasons.
You also have to unplug anything in all of them. I presume anything on
this circuit relates to the pool. Although one never knows what a
previous homeowner or psychopathic electrician has done. Perhaps after
the pool was wired, he wanted power for a gazebo or other light, or to
power some outdoor burglar alarm sensor. If unplugging everything from
this recept that you're looking at now doesn't allow you to reset it, at
least check for other receptacles (or even things which are hard-wired)
which are also dead and unplug everything from them.

(When power is restored, you might want to get one of those yellow
things about the size of a large** walnut with 3 LEDs, that plugs into
the recept and tells you if it is wired correctly. This is unrelated to
whether it is GFCI. It doesn't sound relevant here, but you never know,
and they're cheap. )

**I think walnuts come only in one size, but assume it's bigger than
average.

On 3/16/2015 9:39 AM, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In article , "TomR"
wrote:


I couldn't tell for sure if you mean that the indicator light on the GFI is
or is not present and lit -- is it?
not present.

If it were me, I would want to first confirm that power is getting to the
GFI. If it is, then my guess would be that the GFI is bad and needs to be
replaced.

The breaker isn't tripped. Should I check the leads with a volt meter or
something else or just assume for now that electricity is getting
through.

1) Cycle the circuit breaker to make sure it hasn't tripped

2) unplug EVERYTHING from the GFCI (and make sure there isn't a feed
through to other outlets on that circuit.) That's a common installation
to afford protection to more than one outlet and COULD be your problem,
i.e. the fault is connected to another outlet.

3) if you have a multimeter and are comfy checking for voltage at the
outlet, do so. If you have voltage present but the GFCI still won't
reset...

4) replace the GFCI

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 10:59:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:


The breaker isn't tripped. Should I check the leads with a volt meter
or something else or just assume for now that electricity is getting
through.

I guess that depends on what you have available. If you have any kind of
tester, you could use that. Or, if you can fashion any lamp or light with a
cord in a way to allow you to use the cord itself to touch the incoming line
wires to see if the light comes on, that would work. I sometimes use one of
those light bulb sockets that have just two wires coming out of the bottom
(I forget what they are called) and use that as a tester. I usually use
those light bulb sockets with two wires (whatever they are called) to wire
temporary lights when I am doing electrical work on a property. Or, you
could take off the GFI completely and use the two line supply wires to
carefully touch the two prongs of a lamp plug and see if the lamp lights.
Or, if you have another regular receptacle around (not GFI), you could try
putting that in temporarily to replace the GFI and see if things plugged
into that work etc.

All the other choices you list here are fine except this one. Too
much chance he'll never put the GFI back in, and also more work than
using a meter. Anyone who can afford a pool can afford 22 dollars for
a digital voltmeter (also VOM, mulitmeter, DVM, called various things) ,
(at Radio Shack, Home Depot, or Pep Boys) or ~4 dollars at Harbor
Freight. Also a meter with 4 or 5" stiff probes is better for touching
things than curly-Q wires are.

Although better yet is to buy, at Radio Shack for $5 a bag of wires
with alligator clips on each end, and you can put one on the black lead
of the meter and the other end of it on a neutral or ground location, so
you only have to pay attention to the red probe and the hand that is
holding it, so you don't zap yourself. Many electricians have a rule
to keep one hand in their pocket**** when dealing with live wires.

****Apprently they all share one pocket.

Or, just buy another GFI, replace the existing one, and
see if that solves the problem.

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 10:04:53 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:


4) replace the GFCI

I didn't mean to minimize this possibility. My house was only 7 years
old when my GFCI breaker failed. The new one has lasted 29 years so
far. FWIW, no other breaker has failed at all.

On 3/16/2015 10:39 AM, Kurt Ullman wrote:

The breaker isn't tripped. Should I check the leads with a volt meter or
something else or just assume for now that electricity is getting
through.


Some times when a breaker is tripped, it
moves only part way. Please try turn it
all the way off, and then all the way on.

Sounds like time to ask for help, find some
one who has a bit more experience with
power feeds, electric, and so on.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 3/16/2015 11:16 AM, micky wrote:

Although better yet is to buy, at Radio Shack for $5 a bag of wires
with alligator clips on each end, and you can put one on the black lead

Radio shack? You didn't hear? They went out of
business around here.

OP can find some value and use in a non contact
voltage detector.

Sounds like OP is beyond his skill level.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 11:49:25 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Sounds like OP is beyond his skill level.

Like me, I wasn't born with every skill. I'd suggest the OP just go
ahead and replace the GFCI. If the button with no reset, it's a clue.

Some call it a reset/lockout button.

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 11:49:25 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 3/16/2015 11:16 AM, micky wrote:

Although better yet is to buy, at Radio Shack for $5 a bag of wires
with alligator clips on each end, and you can put one on the black lead

Radio shack? You didn't hear? They went out of
business around here.

Yes, I know they''ve been sold and many stores will close, but not all
and only one has around here. There are still 5 stores within 10 miles,
one only 2 miles away.

Of course anything they sell is available at many places online, but I
figured he wanted to go swimming today.

But to buy online you may have to know what they are called. Jumper
wires?

I changed to jumper leads and got this
http://www.radioshack.com/search?q=jumper+leads
Just what I had in mind. The fourth has micro-alligator clips, but any
of the first 3 are fine. More expensive than last time I looked, maybe
5 years ago. Now, $7.50, 9, and 9.50.

Plus Radio Shack has the best webpage I've come across (Microcenter's
might be just as good.) It is easy to find out what stores have an
online item, and it will tell you how many are in stock at the moment.
Well, it doesnt' do that anymore, at least for these items. I wonder
what's responsible for that step back in service, but it doesn't matter
in this case because almost no one needs more one bag at first.

Of the 5 stores within 10 miles, the one about 2 miles from me has all 3
kinds, and 4 of the 5 have the cheapest of the three in stock. A
different 4 out of 5 have the middle priced one, and 4 out of 5 have the
most expensive one.

The "kinds" are the same except for the length of the wire. 14, 24, or
30" The shortest is normally fine And possibly the number of wires
in a bag. For some reason, it doesn't say. Last bag I bought had 2
wires in each of 5 colors with matching alligator clips. But he only
needs one wire at the moment. These things have hundreds of uses.
Once my car stopped, while running. I walked to my destination, got a
ride home, and came back on my bicycle the next day. With a wiring
diagram, a meter, and an insulation piercing probe, I found a broken
wire to the coil in the engine compartment. I had made a heavier jumper
than this, though these probably would have worked fine, at least for a
few days, and I ended up using the jumper for the next 3 years until I
scrapped the car. (I took off the jumper wire and still have it.)


OP can find some value and use in a non contact
voltage detector.

Sounds like OP is beyond his skill level.

Not until he does all the tests we wanted him to do
-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

On 3/16/2015 11:03 AM, micky wrote:
I'd suggest to remove all the loads, and see if the
GFCI resets. Add loads one at a time, as I did.
I tried that. The pool is closed down with pump and light off. The

SM wasn't quite clear enough. By remove, he means UNPLUG. "Off" is
not the same as unplugged.***

SM replies: Yes, you are correct. I wasn't clear.

only load from the cover is the indicator lights unless actually
moving it on or off. I did disconnect the cover motor because that

Which implies you didn't disconnect anything else.

SM replies: Have to disconnect every thing,
before the test. At Mom's house, there were
a socket after the GFCI. I removed both plugs,
and the GFCI was able to stay on. Sounds like
KU has hard wired circuits, and isn't really
familiar with house wiring. Time to call for
assistance.

had been causing a problem a couple of years ago, but corrected after
they changed out a bad motor.
The fact that it isn't catching (which is did for a couple of
seconds even with the bad motor)

It woudl be fair to extrapolate from that if there were no other tests
to run, but there are other tests to run.

SM replies: I concur, doctor. More tests.


is the reason I think it is the GFI
itself.

Of course, I assume that you checked the circuit breaker for that circuit to
make sure that it has not tripped and/or gone bad and needs to be reset or
replaced.

That too.

I couldn't tell for sure if you mean that the indicator light on the GFI is
or is not present and lit -- is it?

If it were me, I would want to first confirm that power is getting to the
GFI. If it is, then my guess would be that the GFI is bad and needs to be
replaced.

***I don't know how in practice pools are wired, or who wired this one.
But in theory and perhaps in fact, there may be receptacles downstream
from this one which will also trip this one, for ground fault reasons.
You also have to unplug anything in all of them. I presume anything on
this circuit relates to the pool. Although one never knows what a
previous homeowner or psychopathic electrician has done. Perhaps after
the pool was wired, he wanted power for a gazebo or other light, or to
power some outdoor burglar alarm sensor. If unplugging everything from
this recept that you're looking at now doesn't allow you to reset it, at
least check for other receptacles (or even things which are hard-wired)
which are also dead and unplug everything from them.

(When power is restored, you might want to get one of those yellow
things about the size of a large** walnut with 3 LEDs, that plugs into
the recept and tells you if it is wired correctly. This is unrelated to
whether it is GFCI. It doesn't sound relevant here, but you never know,
and they're cheap. )
.

On Monday, March 16, 2015 at 11:01:42 AM UTC-4, wrote:

Does this sound like it is most likely the GFI itself?

Who can tell? You need to do more testing.

Op, the symptoms you desribed are likely caused by 1 of 3 problems.

Agree.



We cannot tell from here, which one of the three is your case.

1) the power supply to the GFI is off


Can test at the GFI for power, using either VOM, simple neon test
light, or even a lamp carefully jumpered to the wires. If there
is power, then on to #2


2) there is a ground fault in the load and the GFI trips as soon as power is applied

Disconnect the downstream loads and try again. If it resets, then
it's a fault downstream. If it still won't reset, then on to
number 3, it's a bad GFI.




3) the GFI itself is defective


Mark

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 09:43:15 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, March 16, 2015 at 11:01:42 AM UTC-4, wrote:

Does this sound like it is most likely the GFI itself?

Who can tell? You need to do more testing.

Op, the symptoms you desribed are likely caused by 1 of 3 problems.

Agree.



We cannot tell from here, which one of the three is your case.

1) the power supply to the GFI is off


Can test at the GFI for power, using either VOM, simple neon test
light, or even a lamp carefully jumpered to the wires. If there
is power, then on to #2


2) there is a ground fault in the load and the GFI trips as soon as power is applied

Disconnect the downstream loads and try again. If it resets, then
it's a fault downstream. If it still won't reset, then on to
number 3, it's a bad GFI.




3) the GFI itself is defective


Mark

The inside of the unit have sensitive electronic parts. Meant to fail,
likely it will not reset.

http://s214.photobucket.com/user/480sparky/media/Tables%20and%20Graphs/GFCI8.jpg.html

My pool electric panel also has a light switch manual/wireless which
adds to testing. Replaced switch with a used one - no joy for pool
light (yes the bulbs were fixed when the bulb had broken). Don't use
wireless.

New switch and new GFCI (have it) should help me at the pool panel...

On Monday, March 16, 2015 at 2:06:25 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 09:36:01 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote:

My pool has a Ground Fault Interuptor that has two plugs but also covers
the pump, light and automatic cover motors. It isn't currently working.
When I push the reset in, there is no click and nothing happens (even
with everything turned off for the winter, the incidcator lights on the
auto cover should show). Before when I have had problems with the
circuit, it would at least catch and you would hear a click before it
kicked off again. This time, push in the reset and it just comes right
back out again, no click or any kind of reaction.
Does this sound like it is most likely the GFI itself?


It sounds like this GFI is outdoors from what you posted. Meaning its
in a so called "outdoor" or "weatherproof" box. I'll tell you right
from the start that those boxes are NOT really weatherproof. Water gets
in around the wire cable, or those foam gaskets which are usually pretty
flimsy and dont seal real well.

I live on a farm, have livestock, and in winter, they need tank heaters,
to keep the drinking water from freezing. Those heaters have a cord
that goes right into water. After having an animal nearly electrocuted
years ago, from a defective heater, I replaced all outdoor outlets with
GFIs.

That protected the animals as well as myself (people) who have to fill
and clean those watering stock tanks. I used all those so called
"weatherproof" outdoor boxes, and yet I was finding myself replacing at
least one GFI every year.

I have eliminated almost all GFI failures in recent years, by simply
using a little silicone caulk around every opening in the box. Silicone
around the cables where they enter the box, on those blank hole plugs
(that fill unused holes), and after I put the cover over the GFI, I put
the silicone around the cover and box, where that foam seal goes.

This makes a huge difference. However, water, snow, etc still can get
into the actual prong holes in the outlet, when they are in use. I know
they make costly plastic enclosures to cover the whole outlet. Those
should work well on a home, but on a farm, I'm sure they would get
broken. So, I just took an old junked tractor tire innertube, and cut
squares out of it, and attach it to the wall or post above the outlet..
It hangs over the whole outlet and prevents water from entering.

I have learned that GFIs are not very tolerant to water. Even small
amounts seem to harm them. (Unlike regular outlets which are rarely
hurt by a little water).

You most likely need to replace the GFI. But before doing any real
work, remove the cover plate, and check for voltage using a meter or
just one of those simple neon testers you can buy for $2 almost
anywhere. If you DONT have voltage, you have a problem elsewhere. If
you do have voltage, replace the GFI.

If there is voltage, I'd disconnect the downstream feed and then
try it again to rule out a downstream fault. If it still doesn't
work, then replace.

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 09:36:01 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote:

My pool has a Ground Fault Interuptor that has two plugs but also covers
the pump, light and automatic cover motors. It isn't currently working.
When I push the reset in, there is no click and nothing happens (even
with everything turned off for the winter, the incidcator lights on the
auto cover should show). Before when I have had problems with the
circuit, it would at least catch and you would hear a click before it
kicked off again. This time, push in the reset and it just comes right
back out again, no click or any kind of reaction.
Does this sound like it is most likely the GFI itself?


It sounds like this GFI is outdoors from what you posted. Meaning its
in a so called "outdoor" or "weatherproof" box. I'll tell you right
from the start that those boxes are NOT really weatherproof. Water gets
in around the wire cable, or those foam gaskets which are usually pretty
flimsy and dont seal real well.

I live on a farm, have livestock, and in winter, they need tank heaters,
to keep the drinking water from freezing. Those heaters have a cord
that goes right into water. After having an animal nearly electrocuted
years ago, from a defective heater, I replaced all outdoor outlets with
GFIs.

That protected the animals as well as myself (people) who have to fill
and clean those watering stock tanks. I used all those so called
"weatherproof" outdoor boxes, and yet I was finding myself replacing at
least one GFI every year.

I have eliminated almost all GFI failures in recent years, by simply
using a little silicone caulk around every opening in the box. Silicone
around the cables where they enter the box, on those blank hole plugs
(that fill unused holes), and after I put the cover over the GFI, I put
the silicone around the cover and box, where that foam seal goes.

This makes a huge difference. However, water, snow, etc still can get
into the actual prong holes in the outlet, when they are in use. I know
they make costly plastic enclosures to cover the whole outlet. Those
should work well on a home, but on a farm, I'm sure they would get
broken. So, I just took an old junked tractor tire innertube, and cut
squares out of it, and attach it to the wall or post above the outlet..
It hangs over the whole outlet and prevents water from entering.

I have learned that GFIs are not very tolerant to water. Even small
amounts seem to harm them. (Unlike regular outlets which are rarely
hurt by a little water).

You most likely need to replace the GFI. But before doing any real
work, remove the cover plate, and check for voltage using a meter or
just one of those simple neon testers you can buy for $2 almost
anywhere. If you DONT have voltage, you have a problem elsewhere. If
you do have voltage, replace the GFI. It's not all that difficult.
Just do it safely, or get someone else to do it who knows how, if you
are uncomfortable with it.

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 13:06:10 -0600, wrote:

I live on a farm, have livestock, and in winter, they need tank heaters,
to keep the drinking water from freezing. Those heaters have a cord
that goes right into water. After having an animal nearly electrocuted
years ago, from a defective heater, I replaced all outdoor outlets with
GFIs.

Why?

What happened to the animal?!

On 3/16/2015 10:19 AM, micky wrote:
On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 10:04:53 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:


4) replace the GFCI

I didn't mean to minimize this possibility. My house was only 7 years
old when my GFCI breaker failed. The new one has lasted 29 years so
far. FWIW, no other breaker has failed at all.

I don't think you did (minimalize it). Unless you're made of money (I'm
not but have plenty enough due to watching expensesg) it makes sense
to approach these things logically rather than just going about
replacing stuff until it works.

I think - and correct me if I'm off base, anyone - if you follow my 4
step, if you wind up doing the 4th step, your circuit will back working.

In ,
Kurt Ullman typed:
My pool has a Ground Fault Interuptor that has two plugs but also
covers the pump, light and automatic cover motors. It isn't currently
working. When I push the reset in, there is no click and nothing
happens (even with everything turned off for the winter, the
incidcator lights on the auto cover should show). Before when I have
had problems with the circuit, it would at least catch and you would
hear a click before it kicked off again. This time, push in the reset
and it just comes right back out again, no click or any kind of
reaction. Does this sound like it is most likely the GFI itself?

So, Kurt, what was the final outcome? Did you get it figured out?

In article , "TomR"
wrote:

In ,
Kurt Ullman typed:
My pool has a Ground Fault Interuptor that has two plugs but also
covers the pump, light and automatic cover motors. It isn't currently
working. When I push the reset in, there is no click and nothing
happens (even with everything turned off for the winter, the
incidcator lights on the auto cover should show). Before when I have
had problems with the circuit, it would at least catch and you would
hear a click before it kicked off again. This time, push in the reset
and it just comes right back out again, no click or any kind of
reaction. Does this sound like it is most likely the GFI itself?

So, Kurt, what was the final outcome? Did you get it figured out?

Nah, it turned cold and I did not want to mess with it. If it actually
hits 60+ here this weekend, I may have a report to make.
--
³Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive,
but what they conceal is vital.²
‹ Aaron Levenstein

In ,
Kurt Ullman typed:
In article , "TomR"
wrote:

In ,
Kurt Ullman typed:
My pool has a Ground Fault Interuptor that has two plugs but also
covers the pump, light and automatic cover motors. It isn't
currently working. When I push the reset in, there is no click and
nothing happens (even with everything turned off for the winter, the
incidcator lights on the auto cover should show). Before when I have
had problems with the circuit, it would at least catch and you would
hear a click before it kicked off again. This time, push in the
reset and it just comes right back out again, no click or any kind
of reaction. Does this sound like it is most likely the GFI
itself?

So, Kurt, what was the final outcome? Did you get it figured out?

Nah, it turned cold and I did not want to mess with it. If it actually
hits 60+ here this weekend, I may have a report to make.

Okay, let us know if you do get it figured out when the weather gets warmer.

Kurt,

Did you turn the circuit breaker off and then back on, do it twice, at the main power panel. If you do, then we can go from there for more trouble-shooting, but we must get power to the GFCI before going any further!

In article , "TomR"
wrote:

In ,
Kurt Ullman typed:
In article , "TomR"
wrote:

In ,
Kurt Ullman typed:
My pool has a Ground Fault Interuptor that has two plugs but also
covers the pump, light and automatic cover motors. It isn't
currently working. When I push the reset in, there is no click and
nothing happens (even with everything turned off for the winter, the
incidcator lights on the auto cover should show). Before when I have
had problems with the circuit, it would at least catch and you would
hear a click before it kicked off again. This time, push in the
reset and it just comes right back out again, no click or any kind
of reaction. Does this sound like it is most likely the GFI
itself?

So, Kurt, what was the final outcome? Did you get it figured out?

Nah, it turned cold and I did not want to mess with it. If it actually
hits 60+ here this weekend, I may have a report to make.

Okay, let us know if you do get it figured out when the weather gets warmer.

Current plans are to switch out the GFI and see what happens.
--
³Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive,
but what they conceal is vital.²
‹ Aaron Levenstein

On 3/19/2015 7:02 PM, Kurt Ullman wrote:
So, Kurt, what was the final outcome? Did you get it figured out?
Nah, it turned cold and I did not want to mess with it. If it actually
hits 60+ here this weekend, I may have a report to make.

Okay, let us know if you do get it figured out when the weather gets warmer.

Current plans are to switch out the GFI and see what happens.


I hope your current plans have ampy ending.


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Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
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