On Thu, 13 Nov 2014 18:24:52 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/13/2014 5:38 PM, wrote:
Your ignition switch is often a good foot
from the cyl.


Which make and models are like this? I've
not seen this kind of car.

-
Almost all Chrysler products from '70 to '90, Lots of Cadilacs and
Oldsmobiles in the sixties as well as many '86-98 GM vehicles, and a
lot of Fords from '70 to '98,
Just about any vehicle using a Saginaw manufactured tilt column used
them. This includes a lot of AMC, International Harvestor and Jeep
vehicles as well as GM.

Integrated ignition switches all but dissapeared except for some of
the Japanese manufacturers up untill the mid-late '90s., and other
than dash mounted ignition switches virtually NO north american
vehicle used direct operated switch (on the end of the cyl) except for
vehicles like the Mystique that were actually european vehicles built
in North America - and north american build Japanese brands.

This may have changed in recent years., but I know my 2002 Taurus is
remote mounted, actuated by a rack and pinion. The 95 Mistique had the
switch about 6 inches from the cyl, but mounted co-axially - in such a
way it would be almost impossible for any lubricant introduced into
the cyl to get into the switch...
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Stormin Mormon explained on 14/11/2014 :
On 11/13/2014 5:38 PM, wrote:
Your ignition switch is often a good foot
from the cyl.


Which make and models are like this? I've
not seen this kind of car.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

You only need to LUBICATE the cylinder, not FLOOD the cabin with
graphite :-?
NEVER put oil or WD 40 in the cylinder. :-Z

And what a dumb thread by pedantics arguing about things they only have
fleeting knowledge of. :-Z

--
John G Sydney.

On 11/13/2014 7:32 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 13 Nov 2014 18:08:43 -0500, Stormin Mormon

The vehicle ignitions I've serviced, the cylinder
and switch often butt up against each other.

.
And many just have a rod from the cyl down to the ignition switch
lower down on the steering column. Even the ones directly coupled to
the cyl are physically separated - the cyl is in a casting with the
switch screwed or clipped onto the outer side of the casting.


What is one such vehicle with the rod from the
cyl to the switch?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 11/13/2014 7:53 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 13 Nov 2014 18:24:52 -0500, Stormin Mormon

Which make and models are like this? I've
not seen this kind of car.

-
Almost all Chrysler products from '70 to '90, Lots of Cadilacs and
Oldsmobiles in the sixties as well as many '86-98 GM vehicles, and a
lot of Fords from '70 to '98,
Just about any vehicle using a Saginaw manufactured tilt column used
them. This includes a lot of AMC, International Harvestor and Jeep
vehicles as well as GM.

Integrated ignition switches all but dissapeared except for some of
the Japanese manufacturers up untill the mid-late '90s., and other
than dash mounted ignition switches Actually, that does remind me of years

ago, when I had a Chevette. I some how remember the ign cylinder had a gear

on it, and that gear went to a od tha worked the lock which was a couple
inches

away. Right, some of the saginaw columns. There was a problem with
crooks who

would smash the cheap metal to get at the lock.

virtually NO north american
vehicle used direct operated switch (on the end of the cyl) except for
vehicles like the Mystique that were actually european vehicles built
in North America - and north american build Japanese brands.

This may have changed in recent years., but I know my 2002 Taurus is
remote mounted, actuated by a rack and pinion. The 95 Mistique had the
switch about 6 inches from the cyl, but mounted co-axially - in such a
way it would be almost impossible for any lubricant introduced into
the cyl to get into the switch...
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.



--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Thu, 13 Nov 2014 22:42:50 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/13/2014 7:32 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 13 Nov 2014 18:08:43 -0500, Stormin Mormon

The vehicle ignitions I've serviced, the cylinder
and switch often butt up against each other.

.
And many just have a rod from the cyl down to the ignition switch
lower down on the steering column. Even the ones directly coupled to
the cyl are physically separated - the cyl is in a casting with the
switch screwed or clipped onto the outer side of the casting.


What is one such vehicle with the rod from the
cyl to the switch?
Virtually every one I referenced. Anything with a saginaw tilt
column, which means virtually every midline or better GM, many fords
and many Mopars.And AMC

Also some Ford and Mopar without Saginaw tilt column

That's just for starters.

On 11/13/2014 9:19 PM, John G wrote:
You only need to LUBICATE the cylinder, not FLOOD the cabin with
graphite :-?
NEVER put oil or WD 40 in the cylinder. :-Z

And what a dumb thread by pedantics
arguing about things they only have
fleeting knowledge of. :-Z


And, idiotic spelling flames, ending a
sentence a preposition with!

Still, I'd avoid graphite in cylinders
which use electrical contacts, as graphite
can be conductive to trouble in those.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Hey, I didn't know that about the rod and gear. Thanks.

notbob wrote:
On 2014-11-09, Oren wrote:

toilet paper. Wrapped a bunch around the lock and set fire with a
match.

Howzabout you morons buying a can of graphite suspended in a solvent.
Napa auto stores carries 'em. Douche yer locks with the
graphite/solvent, then wait for the solvent to evaporate. No more
frozen locks. And yes, it gets cold, here. I've seen my locks work
fine at 30 deg F below zero. That's 50 deg F below freezing.

nb


Uh, isn't that 62 degrees below freezing?

Who is the moron now?

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On 11/25/2014 7:05 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:


notbob wrote:
On 2014-11-09, Oren wrote:

toilet paper. Wrapped a bunch around the lock and set fire with a
match.

Howzabout you morons buying a can of graphite suspended in a solvent.
Napa auto stores carries 'em. Douche yer locks with the
graphite/solvent, then wait for the solvent to evaporate. No more
frozen locks. And yes, it gets cold, here. I've seen my locks work
fine at 30 deg F below zero. That's 50 deg F below freezing.

nb


Uh, isn't that 62 degrees below freezing?

Who is the moron now?

Jeff

I may print that one out. Much too good.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 11/9/2014 5:45 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 09 Nov 2014 16:45:17 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Email contact who lives in Michigan says they
are expecting 8 to 15 inches snow, and bitter
cold in the next few days. NYS will get it
by and by. I'm fixing to buy some gas for snow
blower one of these days, see if I can get it
to run, one more year.

Don't poke ye eye out or cut off some toes.


Isn't that what the Mom said when the boy
in the Christmas movie wanted a Red Ryder?

It's a very real concern, plenty of people
are injured on power equipment.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


I still own a 1964 Airens Sno-Throw which I believe was one of the
earliest self propelled snow blowers marketed to home owners. It still
starts up and runs great, and even has a 120 VAC electric starter on it
so I can start it in the garage and then run it out the door. I put
chains on the wheels so it can move up slippery slopes. About the only
repairs I've made to it were replacing a few belts and auger shear bolts
and welding some new pads on the front "skids".

I call it "The Widow Maker" because there are no safety features on it
I've found. If it is moving forward or backwards in gear and you let go
of the hand grips it just keeps on going.

I used it every winter on our 90 foot long sloping driveway until I
turned 76 years old and SWMBO made me stop using it after my feet
slipped while I was heading uphill on the driveway, I lost my grip on
the handles, fell down and watched the Airens keep going up the hill on
its own.

I scrambled off to the side and watched that Airens slowly turn around
and start back down the sloping driveway heading towards the spot where
I'd fallen. It finally stopped moving when it ran off the driveway and
onto the lawn. Watching that was enough to leave me shaking.

That's when we signed up with a professional plowing service. I still
fire up the Airens once in a while if I need to neaten up the pavement
area in front of our garages, but I've sworn to SWMBO (and myself) that
I won't take it up the driveway again.

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On 11/26/2014 10:59 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:

I still own a 1964 Airens Sno-Throw which I believe was one of the
earliest self propelled snow blowers marketed to home owners. It still
starts up and runs great, and even has a 120 VAC electric starter on it
so I can start it in the garage and then run it out the door. I put
chains on the wheels so it can move up slippery slopes. About the only
repairs I've made to it were replacing a few belts and auger shear bolts
and welding some new pads on the front "skids".

I call it "The Widow Maker" because there are no safety features on it
I've found. If it is moving forward or backwards in gear and you let go
of the hand grips it just keeps on going.

I used it every winter on our 90 foot long sloping driveway until I
turned 76 years old and SWMBO made me stop using it after my feet
slipped while I was heading uphill on the driveway, I lost my grip on
the handles, fell down and watched the Airens keep going up the hill on
its own.

I scrambled off to the side and watched that Airens slowly turn around
and start back down the sloping driveway heading towards the spot where
I'd fallen. It finally stopped moving when it ran off the driveway and
onto the lawn. Watching that was enough to leave me shaking.

That's when we signed up with a professional plowing service. I still
fire up the Airens once in a while if I need to neaten up the pavement
area in front of our garages, but I've sworn to SWMBO (and myself) that
I won't take it up the driveway again.

Jeff

There is a certain macabre "lost in space aliens
trying to kill the whole human race" kind of
humor to the situation. I'd guess that watching
your formerly docile snow blower chewing its way
across the lawn towards you does not seem humor
at the moment, any more than Jaws and the threat
of Ebola.

I'm with you, no sense risking injury.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

rbowman wrote:
Oren wrote:

... its about time we have winter related threads

Damn straight. I pulled the batteries out of all the bikes and wrapped them
up for the winter yesterday. It's raining now, supposed to freeze overnight
so tomorrow's drive to work will be a pleasure.



Ditto...

I don't have problems with our car door locks freezing, but one of cars
(a 2004 Lincoln LS) has an annoying problem a couple of times each
winter. If it's been above freezing and raining and then the temperature
drops quite a bit the front passenger door latch won't do its thing and
keep the door closed. Obviously something is freezing up inside the door.

I only notice this happening if a passenger gets in and the sound of the
door closing and latching isn't isn't normal. If I let the engine warm
up and turn the heater on full blast in about 5 minutes whatever is
frozen melts and the door latching returns to normal and stays that way
for a long time until the next "rain and freeze" situation.

Yeah, I know, I should pull the inside panel off that door and see what
I could lube up, maybe I'll get to it this year.....

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On 11/26/2014 11:13 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:

but one of cars
(a 2004 Lincoln LS) has an annoying problem a couple of times each
winter. If it's been above freezing and raining and then the temperature
drops quite a bit the front passenger door latch won't do its thing and
keep the door closed. Obviously something is freezing up inside the door.

I only notice this happening if a passenger gets in and the sound of the
door closing and latching isn't isn't normal. If I let the engine warm
up and turn the heater on full blast in about 5 minutes whatever is
frozen melts and the door latching returns to normal and stays that way
for a long time until the next "rain and freeze" situation.

Yeah, I know, I should pull the inside panel off that door and see what
I could lube up, maybe I'll get to it this year.....

Jeff


The quick and dirty way:

After dark, go out with the car keys, Mini Mag
flash light, and WD-40 with the LRT.

Roll the window down. Lean over, look in
with the mini mag. At the door edge, you
should see mechanism. Use the LRT to hose
down the latch mechanism.

Pull the door lock and opening handle (while
watching from above into the door) to see
what moves. Hose it down again with WD.

Remit $47.50 for internet consultation.


-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 11/26/2014 11:13 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:

but one of cars
(a 2004 Lincoln LS) has an annoying problem a couple of times each
winter. If it's been above freezing and raining and then the temperature
drops quite a bit the front passenger door latch won't do its thing and
keep the door closed. Obviously something is freezing up inside the door.

I only notice this happening if a passenger gets in and the sound of the
door closing and latching isn't isn't normal. If I let the engine warm
up and turn the heater on full blast in about 5 minutes whatever is
frozen melts and the door latching returns to normal and stays that way
for a long time until the next "rain and freeze" situation.

Yeah, I know, I should pull the inside panel off that door and see what
I could lube up, maybe I'll get to it this year.....

Jeff


The quick and dirty way:

After dark, go out with the car keys, Mini Mag
flash light, and WD-40 with the LRT.

Roll the window down. Lean over, look in
with the mini mag. At the door edge, you
should see mechanism. Use the LRT to hose
down the latch mechanism.

Pull the door lock and opening handle (while
watching from above into the door) to see
what moves. Hose it down again with WD.

Remit $47.50 for internet consultation.


-
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Is the "LRT" similar to the "Smart Straw" shown here?

http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Multi-Us.../dp/B0083V8H0I

I'm assuming that's what you were telling me to use to get the spray to
emerge lower than the top edge of the window slot.

Thanks,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On 11/28/2014 7:10 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:

The quick and dirty way:

After dark, go out with the car keys, Mini Mag
flash light, and WD-40 with the LRT.

Roll the window down. Lean over, look in
with the mini mag. At the door edge, you
should see mechanism. Use the LRT to hose
down the latch mechanism.

Pull the door lock and opening handle (while
watching from above into the door) to see
what moves. Hose it down again with WD.

Remit $47.50 for internet consultation.


-
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Is the "LRT" similar to the "Smart Straw" shown here?

http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Multi-Us.../dp/B0083V8H0I

I'm assuming that's what you were telling me to use to get the spray to
emerge lower than the top edge of the window slot.

Thanks,

Jeff


LRT are what we used in the days before smart
straws were invented.

Same general concept. Much less convenient.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 11/28/2014 7:10 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:

The quick and dirty way:

After dark, go out with the car keys, Mini Mag
flash light, and WD-40 with the LRT.

Roll the window down. Lean over, look in
with the mini mag. At the door edge, you
should see mechanism. Use the LRT to hose
down the latch mechanism.

Pull the door lock and opening handle (while
watching from above into the door) to see
what moves. Hose it down again with WD.

Remit $47.50 for internet consultation.


-
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Is the "LRT" similar to the "Smart Straw" shown here?

http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Multi-Us.../dp/B0083V8H0I

I'm assuming that's what you were telling me to use to get the spray to
emerge lower than the top edge of the window slot.

Thanks,

Jeff


LRT are what we used in the days before smart
straws were invented.

Same general concept. Much less convenient.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Yes I do remember them, those semi stiff pieces of plastic tubing about
3/32" diameter that you stuck (not very firmly) into a hole in the can's
spray cap.

They got misplaced very easily too. I used to tape length of plastic
soda straw with it's bottom end folded closed to the side of the WD-40
can to have a spot to keep it in.

Now, what did "LRT" mean? I'm guessing the "LR" stood for "long reach",
but did the "T" stand for "tube"?

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Sat, 29 Nov 2014 14:07:24 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:

Yes I do remember them, those semi stiff pieces of plastic tubing about
3/32" diameter that you stuck (not very firmly) into a hole in the can's
spray cap.

They got misplaced very easily too. I used to tape length of plastic
soda straw with it's bottom end folded closed to the side of the WD-40
can to have a spot to keep it in.

Those tubes became a collector's item early on. I stashed the tubes
from an empty cans into the drawer of the tool box. No more lost
tubes

On Sat, 29 Nov 2014 14:07:24 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 11/28/2014 7:10 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:

The quick and dirty way:

After dark, go out with the car keys, Mini Mag
flash light, and WD-40 with the LRT.

Roll the window down. Lean over, look in
with the mini mag. At the door edge, you
should see mechanism. Use the LRT to hose
down the latch mechanism.

Pull the door lock and opening handle (while
watching from above into the door) to see
what moves. Hose it down again with WD.

Remit $47.50 for internet consultation.


-
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Is the "LRT" similar to the "Smart Straw" shown here?

http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Multi-Us.../dp/B0083V8H0I

I'm assuming that's what you were telling me to use to get the spray to
emerge lower than the top edge of the window slot.

Thanks,

Jeff


LRT are what we used in the days before smart
straws were invented.

Same general concept. Much less convenient.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Yes I do remember them, those semi stiff pieces of plastic tubing about
3/32" diameter that you stuck (not very firmly) into a hole in the can's
spray cap.

They got misplaced very easily too. I used to tape length of plastic
soda straw with it's bottom end folded closed to the side of the WD-40
can to have a spot to keep it in.

Now, what did "LRT" mean? I'm guessing the "LR" stood for "long reach",
but did the "T" stand for "tube"?

Jeff
Little Red Tube is what I've always heard it referred to

On Sat, 29 Nov 2014 11:56:11 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 29 Nov 2014 14:07:24 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:

Yes I do remember them, those semi stiff pieces of plastic tubing about
3/32" diameter that you stuck (not very firmly) into a hole in the can's
spray cap.

They got misplaced very easily too. I used to tape length of plastic
soda straw with it's bottom end folded closed to the side of the WD-40
can to have a spot to keep it in.

Those tubes became a collector's item early on. I stashed the tubes
from an empty cans into the drawer of the tool box. No more lost
tubes
One drop of good "crazy glue" on the edge od the tube before sticking
it in the first time. and the only way to loose the tube is with the
nozzle attached. I use something called "last glue" Works fantastic -
even for splicing "O" ring material.

On 11/29/2014 2:07 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Yes I do remember them, those semi stiff pieces of plastic tubing about
3/32" diameter that you stuck (not very firmly) into a hole in the can's
spray cap.

They got misplaced very easily too. I used to tape length of plastic
soda straw with it's bottom end folded closed to the side of the WD-40
can to have a spot to keep it in.

Now, what did "LRT" mean? I'm guessing the "LR" stood for "long reach",
but did the "T" stand for "tube"?

Jeff

Little Red Tube.

They were retained by either clear celophane tape,
or I used rubber bands. Both didn't hold.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 11/29/2014 2:56 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 29 Nov 2014 14:07:24 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:

Yes I do remember them, those semi stiff pieces of plastic tubing about
3/32" diameter that you stuck (not very firmly) into a hole in the can's
spray cap.

They got misplaced very easily too. I used to tape length of plastic
soda straw with it's bottom end folded closed to the side of the WD-40
can to have a spot to keep it in.

Those tubes became a collector's item early on. I stashed the tubes
from an empty cans into the drawer of the tool box. No more lost
tubes

Them, and spray can nozzles....

Innies like WD and outies like ether or
carb cleaner.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..