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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 19:28:12 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

On 11/8/14, 7:12 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 18:54:09 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

On 11/8/14, 6:09 PM,
wrote:
On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 16:31:41 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

On 11/8/14, 3:59 PM,
wrote:
On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 15:07:02 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

On 11/7/14, 9:47 PM, micky wrote:
My fob receiver is broken. I'll try D-40.

If you have trouble down the road, contact cleaner should flush out that
nasty WD-40. (So far, WD-40 hasn't been nasty to me.)
I use Brake Kleen to wash out lacks - and contact cleaner on
electrical devices.

I see CRC Brakleen has naphtha, propanol, and acetone. I used to like
CRC's version of WD-40. It seemed to provide better rust protection.
You mean 556? or which CRC product?

Yeah, 5-56! I think I once bought a gallon and used my own squirt bottle.

When the CRC556 came out WAY back in the '70s it was a "liquid
miracle" There may be better products today, but I don't know what
all is out there competing today.

A clerk at an auto parts store recommended it. I tried an aerosol can,
then bought more.

The first can I got was a free sample. Can't remember where and when
but it was before I got my mechanics licence in Dec 1971 - Likely at
a Texaco sponsored service station training meeting.
For years the stuff was not readily available on Canadian shelves.
Haven't bought a can for YEARS..

"Ed's Red" is a pretty good mix
1 part Dexron
1 part Varsol (stoddard solvent)
1 part Acetone
Optional (and recommended) 1 lb anhydrous Lanolin per gallon.

It was originally a "bore cleaner" for guns but makes a pretty good
penetrating fluid.
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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 18:12:19 -0700, rbowman
wrote:

wrote:

I use Brake Kleen to wash out lacks - and contact cleaner on
electrical devices.


I generally have a few cans of brake cleaner around. Sometimes I even use it
on brakes. It's one of the few things they haven't dumbed down to the point
where they don't work anymore.


It makes pretty good dry cleaning fluid too, to remove grease stains
from clothes. Be careful on synthetics.

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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

On 11/8/14, 9:30 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 19:28:12 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

On 11/8/14, 7:12 PM,
wrote:
On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 18:54:09 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

On 11/8/14, 6:09 PM,
wrote:
On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 16:31:41 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

On 11/8/14, 3:59 PM,
wrote:
On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 15:07:02 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

On 11/7/14, 9:47 PM, micky wrote:
My fob receiver is broken. I'll try D-40.

If you have trouble down the road, contact cleaner should flush out that
nasty WD-40. (So far, WD-40 hasn't been nasty to me.)
I use Brake Kleen to wash out lacks - and contact cleaner on
electrical devices.

I see CRC Brakleen has naphtha, propanol, and acetone. I used to like
CRC's version of WD-40. It seemed to provide better rust protection.
You mean 556? or which CRC product?

Yeah, 5-56! I think I once bought a gallon and used my own squirt bottle.
When the CRC556 came out WAY back in the '70s it was a "liquid
miracle" There may be better products today, but I don't know what
all is out there competing today.

A clerk at an auto parts store recommended it. I tried an aerosol can,
then bought more.

The first can I got was a free sample. Can't remember where and when
but it was before I got my mechanics licence in Dec 1971 - Likely at
a Texaco sponsored service station training meeting.
For years the stuff was not readily available on Canadian shelves.
Haven't bought a can for YEARS..

"Ed's Red" is a pretty good mix
1 part Dexron
1 part Varsol (stoddard solvent)
1 part Acetone
Optional (and recommended) 1 lb anhydrous Lanolin per gallon.

It was originally a "bore cleaner" for guns but makes a pretty good
penetrating fluid.

CRC's closest replacement seems to be Power Lube. Their best
penetrating oil seems to be Freeze Off. It cools the material to help
it wick the solvent. Amazon reviewers say it works when nothing else
will. One reviewer wasn't satisfied. He still had to get a breaker bar
and a pipe to remove overtorqued lug nuts.


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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

On 11/8/2014 8:15 PM, rbowman wrote:

I've got to rig one of those. Those 'weatherproof' locks from the hardware
store with the plastic overcase mostly seem to retain any water. I've
learned to keep the propane torch in the house so I can thaw out the shed
lock to get to whatever else I need.

Propane is good stuff. Mapp, when the tank gets
cold, it doesn't flow gas properly.

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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

Radiator antifreeze works great for preventing things like locks and snow thrower chute cables from freezing. Just put some antifreeze in a syringe and shoot up.


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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 18:15:01 -0700, rbowman
wrote:

wrote:

A rubber flap over the lock to keep water out goes a long
way towards keeping padlocks working in the winter.


I've got to rig one of those. Those 'weatherproof' locks from the hardware
store with the plastic overcase mostly seem to retain any water. I've
learned to keep the propane torch in the house so I can thaw out the shed
lock to get to whatever else I need.


One place I worked; torches were a "controlled tool". Staff needing to
get past chained outside gates for inspections carried a roll of
toilet paper. Wrapped a bunch around the lock and set fire with a
match. Usually the first time was a charm - you learn how much it
takes after awhile. It was done that way for decades and likely still
a present day practice
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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

On 2014-11-09, Oren wrote:

toilet paper. Wrapped a bunch around the lock and set fire with a
match.


Howzabout you morons buying a can of graphite suspended in a solvent.
Napa auto stores carries 'em. Douche yer locks with the
graphite/solvent, then wait for the solvent to evaporate. No more
frozen locks. And yes, it gets cold, here. I've seen my locks work
fine at 30 deg F below zero. That's 50 deg F below freezing.

nb
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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

On 11/9/2014 1:12 PM, Oren wrote:
One place I worked; torches were a "controlled tool". Staff needing to
get past chained outside gates for inspections carried a roll of
toilet paper. Wrapped a bunch around the lock and set fire with a
match. Usually the first time was a charm - you learn how much it
takes after awhile. It was done that way for decades and likely still
a present day practice

Now, that sounds like country wisdom. Good one.


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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

On 9 Nov 2014 19:29:03 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2014-11-09, Oren wrote:

toilet paper. Wrapped a bunch around the lock and set fire with a
match.


Howzabout you morons buying a can of graphite suspended in a solvent.
Napa auto stores carries 'em. Douche yer locks with the
graphite/solvent, then wait for the solvent to evaporate. No more
frozen locks. And yes, it gets cold, here. I've seen my locks work
fine at 30 deg F below zero. That's 50 deg F below freezing.

nb


I moved out of Yankee snow country. I live in the Mojave Desert. Snow
is not the problem, if I had one. (Moron!)

****! I once used hot water on a frozen truck door lock. Don't get
uppity, now.
--
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-- Lily Tomlin
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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

On Sun, 09 Nov 2014 09:38:03 -0500, _ G0D _ "_ G0D
wrote:

Radiator antifreeze works great for preventing things like locks and snow thrower chute cables from freezing. Just put some antifreeze in a syringe and shoot up.

Used to do that with some throttle cables back in the "early yeaes" of
cable operated automotive throttles.
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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

On 9 Nov 2014 19:29:03 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2014-11-09, Oren wrote:

toilet paper. Wrapped a bunch around the lock and set fire with a
match.


Howzabout you morons buying a can of graphite suspended in a solvent.
Napa auto stores carries 'em. Douche yer locks with the
graphite/solvent, then wait for the solvent to evaporate. No more
frozen locks. And yes, it gets cold, here. I've seen my locks work
fine at 30 deg F below zero. That's 50 deg F below freezing.

nb

That's exactly what "lock ease" is.
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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication


wrote in message
...
On Sun, 09 Nov 2014 09:38:03 -0500, _ G0D _ "_ G0D
wrote:

Radiator antifreeze works great for preventing things like locks and snow
thrower chute cables from freezing. Just put some antifreeze in a syringe
and shoot up.

Used to do that with some throttle cables back in the "early yeaes" of
cable operated automotive throttles.


NOW you tell me!


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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

notbob wrote:

Howzabout you morons buying a can of graphite suspended in a solvent.
Napa auto stores carries 'em. Douche yer locks with the
graphite/solvent, then wait for the solvent to evaporate. No more
frozen locks. And yes, it gets cold, here. I've seen my locks work
fine at 30 deg F below zero. That's 50 deg F below freezing.


Sorry, when the lock mechanism fills with water and it freezes, the lock
doesn't work. It's raining now and will freeze tonight. I bet when I go out
to the shed in a few minutes and pop the cap off the Ace 'weatherproof' lock
water will run out. Graphite, Tru-Flow, BreakFree, WD-40, doesn''t make a
difference.



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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

On Sun, 09 Nov 2014 14:32:29 -0700, rbowman
wrote:

notbob wrote:

Howzabout you morons buying a can of graphite suspended in a solvent.
Napa auto stores carries 'em. Douche yer locks with the
graphite/solvent, then wait for the solvent to evaporate. No more
frozen locks. And yes, it gets cold, here. I've seen my locks work
fine at 30 deg F below zero. That's 50 deg F below freezing.


Sorry, when the lock mechanism fills with water and it freezes, the lock
doesn't work. It's raining now and will freeze tonight. I bet when I go out
to the shed in a few minutes and pop the cap off the Ace 'weatherproof' lock
water will run out. Graphite, Tru-Flow, BreakFree, WD-40, doesn''t make a
difference.


I feel your pain :-\

.... its about time we have winter related threads
--
"I don’t have an indoor loo." -- Bill Schulz
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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

On 11/9/2014 4:32 PM, rbowman wrote:

Sorry, when the lock mechanism fills with water and it freezes, the lock
doesn't work. It's raining now and will freeze tonight. I bet when I go out
to the shed in a few minutes and pop the cap off the Ace 'weatherproof' lock
water will run out. Graphite, Tru-Flow, BreakFree, WD-40, doesn''t make a
difference.


I've seen folks who cut part of inner tube,
and make a flap that covers the entire lock.
Bet you've done that?

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On 11/9/2014 4:41 PM, Oren wrote:
Sorry, when the lock mechanism fills with water and it freezes, the lock
doesn't work. It's raining now and will freeze tonight. I bet when I go out
to the shed in a few minutes and pop the cap off the Ace 'weatherproof' lock
water will run out. Graphite, Tru-Flow, BreakFree, WD-40, doesn''t make a
difference.


I feel your pain :-\

... its about time we have winter related threads


Email contact who lives in Michigan says they
are expecting 8 to 15 inches snow, and bitter
cold in the next few days. NYS will get it
by and by. I'm fixing to buy some gas for snow
blower one of these days, see if I can get it
to run, one more year.

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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

On 2014-11-09, Oren wrote:

I moved out of Yankee snow country. I live in the Mojave Desert. Snow
is not the problem, if I had one. (Moron!)


LIke I knew that, (M)Oren.

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On 2014-11-09, rbowman wrote:

Sorry, when the lock mechanism fills with water and it freezes, the lock
doesn't work.


Well, duh!!

My guess would be, you should prevent the water from getting into the
lock in the first place. Much to my amusement, this is one time a
small piece of duct tape jes might actually solve yer problem.

nb


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On Sun, 09 Nov 2014 16:45:17 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Email contact who lives in Michigan says they
are expecting 8 to 15 inches snow, and bitter
cold in the next few days. NYS will get it
by and by. I'm fixing to buy some gas for snow
blower one of these days, see if I can get it
to run, one more year.


Don't poke ye eye out or cut off some toes.
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On 9 Nov 2014 22:05:55 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2014-11-09, Oren wrote:

I moved out of Yankee snow country. I live in the Mojave Desert. Snow
is not the problem, if I had one. (Moron!)


LIke I knew that, (M)Oren.


It is your responsibility to figger out what you know.
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Default OT -- car door locks need lubrication

On Sun, 09 Nov 2014 14:32:29 -0700, rbowman
wrote:

notbob wrote:

Howzabout you morons buying a can of graphite suspended in a solvent.
Napa auto stores carries 'em. Douche yer locks with the
graphite/solvent, then wait for the solvent to evaporate. No more
frozen locks. And yes, it gets cold, here. I've seen my locks work
fine at 30 deg F below zero. That's 50 deg F below freezing.


Sorry, when the lock mechanism fills with water and it freezes, the lock
doesn't work. It's raining now and will freeze tonight. I bet when I go out
to the shed in a few minutes and pop the cap off the Ace 'weatherproof' lock
water will run out. Graphite, Tru-Flow, BreakFree, WD-40, doesn''t make a
difference.

Chunk of innertube over the lock to keep water off of it does work,
though.
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On 11/9/2014 5:45 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 09 Nov 2014 16:45:17 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Email contact who lives in Michigan says they
are expecting 8 to 15 inches snow, and bitter
cold in the next few days. NYS will get it
by and by. I'm fixing to buy some gas for snow
blower one of these days, see if I can get it
to run, one more year.


Don't poke ye eye out or cut off some toes.


Isn't that what the Mom said when the boy
in the Christmas movie wanted a Red Ryder?

It's a very real concern, plenty of people
are injured on power equipment.

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Stormin Mormon wrote:

I've seen folks who cut part of inner tube,
and make a flap that covers the entire lock.
Bet you've done that?


No, that's my next step. No reason to rush into things an weatherproof the
lock in August.

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Oren wrote:

... its about time we have winter related threads


Damn straight. I pulled the batteries out of all the bikes and wrapped them
up for the winter yesterday. It's raining now, supposed to freeze overnight
so tomorrow's drive to work will be a pleasure.



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Stormin Mormon wrote:

. I'm fixing to buy some gas for snow
blower one of these days, see if I can get it
to run, one more year.


I got the snow shovels lined up by the deck. See if I can shovel snow one
more year without having a coronary event.
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On 2014-11-10, rbowman wrote:

I got the snow shovels lined up by the deck. See if I can shovel snow one
more year without having a coronary event.


Testify!
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On 10 Nov 2014 22:05:17 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2014-11-10, rbowman wrote:

I got the snow shovels lined up by the deck. See if I can shovel snow one
more year without having a coronary event.


Testify!


Elaborate.


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On 11/10/2014 8:48 PM, Oren wrote:
On 10 Nov 2014 22:05:17 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2014-11-10, rbowman wrote:

I got the snow shovels lined up by the deck. See if I can shovel snow one
more year without having a coronary event.


Testify!


Elaborate.

Easydoesit.

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Oren wrote:

On 10 Nov 2014 22:05:17 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2014-11-10, rbowman wrote:

I got the snow shovels lined up by the deck. See if I can shovel snow
one more year without having a coronary event.


Testify!


Elaborate.


My father died of a heart attack after shoveling snow at work. That crosses
my mind every now and then as I shovel the driveway. Especially the 'at
work' part. He was going to retire when I graduated college. I did so that
spring. I'm getting close to the same age and I'm still working although
some days I wonder why.


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On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 19:54:40 -0700, rbowman
wrote:

Oren wrote:

On 10 Nov 2014 22:05:17 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2014-11-10, rbowman wrote:

I got the snow shovels lined up by the deck. See if I can shovel snow
one more year without having a coronary event.

Testify!


Elaborate.


My father died of a heart attack after shoveling snow at work. That crosses
my mind every now and then as I shovel the driveway. Especially the 'at
work' part. He was going to retire when I graduated college. I did so that
spring. I'm getting close to the same age and I'm still working although
some days I wonder why.

Good friend died at 59 last year while out shovelling snow with his
sons. I'll shovel ligh snow - up to 2 inches or so, and away from
doors and cars, but the heavy lifting is done by my Yamaha blower.
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On 11/10/2014 9:54 PM, rbowman wrote:
My father died of a heart attack after shoveling snow at work. That crosses
my mind every now and then as I shovel the driveway. Especially the 'at
work' part. He was going to retire when I graduated college. I did so that
spring. I'm getting close to the same age and I'm still working although
some days I wonder why.


With the family pattern established, I'd also
be cautious.

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Graphite is electrically conductive.

House locks don't care, at least at my house there's no wiring.

Automotive locks are a different story. There are lots of connections in both door and ignition locks. I'm wary of introducing another failure mode.


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On 11/13/2014 9:17 AM, TimR wrote:
Graphite is electrically conductive.

House locks don't care, at least at my house

there's no wiring.

Automotive locks are a different story. There

are lots of connections in both door and ignition
locks. I'm wary of introducing another failure mode.


I've heard that for some vehicle ignition locks.

Not sure if door locks are a concern.

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On Thu, 13 Nov 2014 06:17:16 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

Graphite is electrically conductive.

House locks don't care, at least at my house there's no wiring.

Automotive locks are a different story. There are lots of connections in both door and ignition locks. I'm wary of introducing another failure mode.

The switch is not the lock. Your ignition switch is often a good foot
from the cyl. In the car door all of the switches are generally quite
a distance from the cyl. I've NEVER seen an ignition switch or
doorlock switch fail from any lubricant put into the cyl and doubt you
ever will either.
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On Thu, 13 Nov 2014 18:08:43 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/13/2014 5:38 PM, wrote:
The switch is not the lock. Your ignition switch is often a good foot
from the cyl. In the car door all of the switches are generally quite
a distance from the cyl. I've NEVER seen an ignition switch or
doorlock switch fail from any lubricant put into the cyl and doubt you
ever will either.


The vehicle ignitions I've serviced, the cylinder
and switch often butt up against each other.

Some new GM, there is the resistor pellet in the
key, and that can be affected by conductive graphite.

Older cars, with the key in the dash, often the
cylinder and the switch were part of the same unit.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
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.

And many just have a rod from the cyl down to the ignition switch
lower down on the steering column. Even the ones directly coupled to
the cyl are physically separated - the cyl is in a casting with the
switch screwed or clipped onto the outer side of the casting.
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