Is it possible to mix black latex outdoor paint with saccrete to give the concrete color? I know there are some poweders you can buy for color, but I cant find the exact shade.

Also, I know this is a dumb question but I have a blacktop driveway that has cracks, crevices, alagatering, etc. I don't have the money to replace the entire driveway. Could I skim coat the bad parts with concrete? Even if it only lasts a year it would be worth it.

wrote in message
...
Is it possible to mix black latex outdoor paint with saccrete to give the
concrete color? I know there are some poweders you can buy for color, but I
cant find the exact shade.

Also, I know this is a dumb question but I have a blacktop driveway that has
cracks, crevices, alagatering, etc. I don't have the money to replace the
entire driveway. Could I skim coat the bad parts with concrete? Even if it
only lasts a year it would be worth it.


Both ideas sound dubious to me. Why not
just get some crack sealer, then paint the
driveway with some of the liquid asphalt
sealer that can be squeegeed on?

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 9:18:44 AM UTC-4, Mayayana wrote:
wrote in message

...

Is it possible to mix black latex outdoor paint with saccrete to give the

concrete color? I know there are some poweders you can buy for color, but I

cant find the exact shade.



Also, I know this is a dumb question but I have a blacktop driveway that has

cracks, crevices, alagatering, etc. I don't have the money to replace the

entire driveway. Could I skim coat the bad parts with concrete? Even if it

only lasts a year it would be worth it.





Both ideas sound dubious to me. Why not

just get some crack sealer, then paint the

driveway with some of the liquid asphalt

sealer that can be squeegeed on?

yeah use crack filler and topcoat with the type that has anti skid in it.... plus they sell a skim coat type of material.

my driveway is approaching 35 years old and does require maintence. ideally it needs replaced....

wrote in
:

Is it possible to mix black latex outdoor paint with saccrete to
give the concrete color?

No. The concrete will never harden properly.

I know there are some poweders you can
buy for color, but I cant find the exact shade.

And you think you *will* get the exact shade with paint??

Use the stuff that's made for the purpose.

Also, I know this is a dumb question but I have a blacktop
driveway that has cracks, crevices, alagatering, etc. I don't
have the money to replace the entire driveway. Could I skim coat
the bad parts with concrete? Even if it only lasts a year it
would be worth it.

Patch concrete with concrete, patch asphalt with asphalt.

Why are you always trying to do things the quick-and-dirty way, instead of taking the time to
do them *right*?

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 9:32:53 AM UTC-4, Doug Miller wrote:
wrote in

:



Is it possible to mix black latex outdoor paint with saccrete to

give the concrete color?



No. The concrete will never harden properly.



I know there are some poweders you can

buy for color, but I cant find the exact shade.



And you think you *will* get the exact shade with paint??



Use the stuff that's made for the purpose.



Also, I know this is a dumb question but I have a blacktop

driveway that has cracks, crevices, alagatering, etc. I don't

have the money to replace the entire driveway. Could I skim coat

the bad parts with concrete? Even if it only lasts a year it

would be worth it.



Patch concrete with concrete, patch asphalt with asphalt.



Why are you always trying to do things the quick-and-dirty way, instead of taking the time to

do them *right*?


Assuming the only purpose of the concrete coloring is for it
to be used for the asphalt driveway, no need to go into that any
further. There are many products for asphalt repair, so why reinvent
the wheel? For color matching, just seal coat the whole driveway.
The big question is if the driveway is repairable or shot. When it
starts to alligator in more than just an isolated spot or two, it's
basically done. Any repairs are unlikely to last long.

On 5/21/2014 9:32 AM, Doug Miller wrote:


Why are you always trying to do things the quick-and-dirty way, instead of taking the time to
do them *right*?


Because he never has time to do it right, but he always has time to do
it over?

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 6:08:50 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Is it possible to mix black latex outdoor paint with saccrete to give the concrete color? I know there are some poweders you can buy for color, but I cant find the exact shade.

Also, I know this is a dumb question but I have a blacktop driveway that has cracks, crevices, alagatering, etc. I don't have the money to replace the entire driveway. Could I skim coat the bad parts with concrete? Even if it only lasts a year it would be worth it.

A skim coat of concrete will crack and flake the first time you drive over it. It may even do it just by stepping on it.

Harry K

Mike wrote:

Because he never has time to do it right, but he always has time to do
it over?

Wrong thread. That should be in Stormin 'Dad's Wise Sayings'...

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 8:08:50 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Is it possible to mix black latex outdoor paint with saccrete to give the concrete color? I know there are some poweders you can buy for color, but I cant find the exact shade.



Also, I know this is a dumb question but I have a blacktop driveway that has cracks, crevices, alagatering, etc. I don't have the money to replace the entire driveway. Could I skim coat the bad parts with concrete? Even if it only lasts a year it would be worth it.

There are some spots where chunks are missing and a few small spots where gravel underneath is showing.

I know what sealcoat is, but I did not think it could be used to "fill" in surface defects.

The only thing I found at Lowes was a bag of cold patch compound. It was basically a bag with a hard piece of asphault in it. I could not see how you would get it to conform to an irregular shape.

wrote in
:
I know what sealcoat is, but I did not think it could be used to
"fill" in surface defects.

It can't. Who said it could?

The only thing I found at Lowes was a bag of cold patch
compound. It was basically a bag with a hard piece of asphault
in it. I could not see how you would get it to conform to an
irregular shape.

Probably an old bag. It's not *supposed* to be one hard chunk.

wrote:

Is it possible to mix black latex outdoor paint with saccrete to
give the concrete color?

See below.

My take on this is that yes, you can replace water with a similar amount
of latex paint when mixing concrete and end up with similar or even
stronger concrete than if only water was used, even if up to 66% of the
water is replaced with paint.

The tests performed by the State of Florida (see below) was aimed at
diverting the maximal amount of discarded household latex paint possible
into slabs of concrete poured as pads around various municipal buildings
are work yards. If the goal is to simply color the concrete, then it is
probable that a much lower amount of paint would be needed to achieve
the desired result, and the effect on workability (slump) and long-term
strength would be minimal or even improved.

Web searches for "Paintcrete" should yield a lot of useful info and
data.

==============
Making Concrete Pavers and Flagstones DIY Projects

How to Add Color to your Concrete Project

1. Paint – Yes, you can add latex paint to your concrete mix and the
color will go throughout the whole casting. It must be latex paint but
it can be any color or mixture of colors. This is an option that calls
for a lot of testing. If you use the regular gray cement your color will
be affected. Try to use white cement. If you’re using sand mix, plan
extra time for testing. It will take much longer than you think to
determine the right formula for the color you have in mind.

2. Dry color additives – These are added either during your mixing or
sprinkled on top of your pour. You can sprinkle one color and then
another color to achieve a natural stone look. This finish can wear in
time also since it is a surface pigment.

3. Liquid color additives – These are mixed into your concrete before
you pour and color the entire cast, not just the top. Testing is
required. This is the stuff you see the guy pouring into the cement
mixer just before he pours a driveway.

http://www.pobox355.com/how-to-add-c...crete-project/
===============

Adding Latex Paint to Concrete

By Concrete Construction Staff

Q.: We're bidding a job that requires a white concrete floor. Another
bidder has proposed mixing white latex paint in with the concrete. Can
this work?

A.: We checked with two experts in applications of latexes and other
polymers in concrete, and neither has heard of this practice nor
believes it would work. The latex used in paint is not compatible with
portland cement, so adding latex paint to the concrete mix could make a
gooey mess. If any of our readers have tried this, please tell us your
experiences.

We recommend you stick to the proven methods of producing white concrete
surfaces: use white portland cement, color concrete with a titanium
dioxide pigment, or apply a white surface coating.

http://www.concreteconstruction.net/...-concrete.aspx

=================

Paintcrete
Concrete made with left over latex paint admixture
Final Report
Feb 20, 1996

Florida Dept. of Environmental Protection
Agreement #HW275
Unique or Innovative Household Hazardous Waste Grant
In Partnership with Okaloosa County, FL

- a way to divert the household hazardous waste stream - by
incorporating these materials into concrete)

The question is can this be done while maintaining the structural
integrity of the concrete, ie, design strength?

- descriptions of several test samples and slabs poured using old
latex paint during 1994.

- the most controlled test consisted of 250 gallons of paint mixed
into 17 cubic yards in the form of a slab 25 ft by 37 ft.

- All tests resulted in a hard, functional slab, but failed
compressive strength tests.

- However, in every instance, the masons had added so much extra water
that it practically liquified the mix, which probably resulted in
sub-standard strength.

In late 1995 they performed the most controlled batch design where the
amount of water was very carefully rationed. They made a mix consisting
of 1.5 cubic yards of concrete (containing 5 gallons of water) to which
they added 10 gallons of paint and then 1 gallon of water. Normally,
1.5 cubic yards of concrete would contain 15 gallons of water to get
3000 PSI strength. Instead, their modified concrete contained 6 gallons
of water and 10 gallons of paint. The concrete had a slump of 1.25
inches and compression strength (at 7 days) of 3909 PSI (130% of design
strength).

They added 1 gallon of water to get a slump of 3.25 inches and that
sample had strength of 3472 psi at 7 days. Finally they added 1 more
gallon of water to get a slump of 5.75 inches and it had a strength of
2996 psi at 7 days.

Full report, including test results and pictures:

http://www.dep.state.fl.us/waste/qui...eport_1996.pdf
=================

On Wed, 21 May 2014 13:32:53 +0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
wrote:

wrote in
:

Is it possible to mix black latex outdoor paint with saccrete to
give the concrete color?

No. The concrete will never harden properly.

I know there are some poweders you can
buy for color, but I cant find the exact shade.

And you think you *will* get the exact shade with paint??

Use the stuff that's made for the purpose.

Also, I know this is a dumb question but I have a blacktop
driveway that has cracks, crevices, alagatering, etc. I don't
have the money to replace the entire driveway. Could I skim coat
the bad parts with concrete? Even if it only lasts a year it
would be worth it.

Patch concrete with concrete, patch asphalt with asphalt.

Why are you always trying to do things the quick-and-dirty way, instead of taking the time to
do them *right*?
Because he's "stryped" He doesn't need any other reason.

Always enough time and money to do something over, and over, and over
- never enough to do it right.

On Wed, 21 May 2014 06:52:53 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 6:08:50 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Is it possible to mix black latex outdoor paint with saccrete to give the concrete color? I know there are some poweders you can buy for color, but I cant find the exact shade.

Also, I know this is a dumb question but I have a blacktop driveway that has cracks, crevices, alagatering, etc. I don't have the money to replace the entire driveway. Could I skim coat the bad parts with concrete? Even if it only lasts a year it would be worth it.

A skim coat of concrete will crack and flake the first time you drive over it. It may even do it just by stepping on it.

Harry K
Forget stepping on it - just LOOK at it the wrong way.

I believe that mixing latex paint with cement mix would work and give you a coloured concrete.

But I don't believe that concrete (with or without latex paint in it) would stick well to ashphalt.

I'd mix up a small batch and see if it works.

On 5/21/2014 11:25 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
wrote in
:
I know what sealcoat is, but I did not think it could be used to
"fill" in surface defects.

It can't. Who said it could?

The only thing I found at Lowes was a bag of cold patch
compound. It was basically a bag with a hard piece of asphault
in it. I could not see how you would get it to conform to an
irregular shape.

Probably an old bag. It's not *supposed* to be one hard chunk.


It is NOT a hard chunk, it only feels that way because it is vacuum
packed. I buy about 10 bags every spring to fix the pot holes in the
street in front of our home (city cannot afford it) and they always feel
like on big hard chunk until the bad is opened.

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 10:56:43 PM UTC-4, nestork wrote:
I believe that mixing latex paint with cement mix would work and give

you a coloured concrete.



But I don't believe that concrete (with or without latex paint in it)

would stick well to ashphalt.



I'd mix up a small batch and see if it works.




It doesn't matter if it sticks or not. A thin coat, even
it sticks, is going to crack and fail. Even brand new
asphalt is far more flexible than concrete. And old
alligatored concrete is far worse.

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 12:25:21 PM UTC-4, Doug Miller wrote:
wrote in

:

I know what sealcoat is, but I did not think it could be used to

"fill" in surface defects.



It can't. Who said it could?


For smaller defects they have other liquid type crack
filler. There is also a product I've seen online that
comes in sticks, you heat it with a torch, dribble it in
to the cracks. But how effective any of that is, how long
it will last, is it worth it, depends on how far gone it
is. I'm also having trouble picturing "small spots", where
gravel is showing. Usually you only see that in what I'd
call large spots, but I guess it's all relative. If gravel
is showing, then the above crack fillers aren't going to
work. The bad part needs to be taken out, then the cold
patch product that he saw in the store would be used to fill
it in. I wonder how old this driveway is and how thick it is?

On Thursday, May 22, 2014 5:27:07 AM UTC-7, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 10:56:43 PM UTC-4, nestork wrote:

I believe that mixing latex paint with cement mix would work and give



you a coloured concrete.







But I don't believe that concrete (with or without latex paint in it)



would stick well to ashphalt.







I'd mix up a small batch and see if it works.









It doesn't matter if it sticks or not. A thin coat, even

it sticks, is going to crack and fail. Even brand new

asphalt is far more flexible than concrete. And old

alligatored concrete is far worse.

Yep. A thin layer of concrete has almost no cohesive power.

Harry K

Harry K wrote:

Yep. A thin layer of concrete has almost no cohesive power.

Harry K

Bunch of fools.

Anyone who works with concrete knows that if you don't clean the tools
right away, that "thin layer" is a bitch to remove later when the
concrete / cement has cured.

I've repaired spalling and flaking in the surface of poured patio slabs
with thin layers of mortar (ie - sand and cement, no stone) with the
repair being as thin as 1/16 of an inch in some areas, and after 10
years that layer is still bonded to the concrete slab. Even a decade of
freeze/thaw hasn't lifted these patches.

The key is to clean the substrate so you can god damn eat off of it
before you apply the resurfacing.

There are bonding "helpers" that, interestingly enough has a latex
component (looks like white, milky stuff) that you paint on and before
it dries you apply the overlaying cement / mortar mix patch.

On Thursday, May 22, 2014 10:10:24 AM UTC-4, HomeGuy wrote:
Harry K wrote:



Yep. A thin layer of concrete has almost no cohesive power.



Harry K



Bunch of fools.



Anyone who works with concrete knows that if you don't clean the tools

right away, that "thin layer" is a bitch to remove later when the

concrete / cement has cured.



Try putting that thin 1/16" coat on an asphalt driveway,
which is what is proposed here, then drive a car over
it. Drywall mud will also stick to tools, but a
thin coat of it is easy to crack, and then it falls
apart. Sticking lasting. A thin coat of cement on an
ashphalt driveway, especially an ashphalt driveway like this
one that is alligatored and failing, is going to flex way
more than is required to crack it.

Why do we even wind up in threads like this? There are
products for repairing asphalt, ie cold patch, crack filler,
sealer, etc. They have the right properties. Thin coats of
cement, do not.

trader_4 wrote in news:22d3958c-0308-4a2d-8b29-a7fc442d7e31
@googlegroups.com:

Why do we even wind up in threads like this?

Because the world is full of strypeds, trying to fix things on the cheap instead of doing it right.

wrote in message


Also, I know this is a dumb question but I have a blacktop driveway that
has cracks, crevices, alagatering, etc. I don't have the money to replace
the entire driveway. Could I skim coat the bad parts with concrete? Even
if it only lasts a year it would be worth it.

Get...

1. A big chunk of tar

2. A big pot

Put tar in pot, heat pot until tar is liguid, pour in cracks etc. Tar and
pot - a barrel would do - are available at roofing supply placed\.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 5/22/2014 10:10 AM, HomeGuy wrote:
Harry K wrote:

Yep. A thin layer of concrete has almost no cohesive power.

Harry K

Bunch of fools.

Anyone who works with concrete knows that if you don't clean the tools
right away, that "thin layer" is a bitch to remove later when the
concrete / cement has cured.

I've repaired spalling and flaking in the surface of poured patio slabs
with thin layers of mortar (ie - sand and cement, no stone) with the
repair being as thin as 1/16 of an inch in some areas, and after 10
years that layer is still bonded to the concrete slab. Even a decade of
freeze/thaw hasn't lifted these patches.

The key is to clean the substrate so you can god damn eat off of it
before you apply the resurfacing.

There are bonding "helpers" that, interestingly enough has a latex
component (looks like white, milky stuff) that you paint on and before
it dries you apply the overlaying cement / mortar mix patch.


If where you live in Canada remains around freezing all year, a concrete
patch on asphalt might survive but in moderate and hot climates the
modulus of concrete is far higher than asphalt which means it will crack
when stressed as the underlying asphalt is much more flexible.

ftp://www.clrp.cornell.edu/CDOT/Hand...ls%20Table.pdf

On Thu, 22 May 2014 10:10:24 -0400, HomeGuy
Home@Guy.com wrote:

Harry K wrote:

Yep. A thin layer of concrete has almost no cohesive power.

Harry K

Bunch of fools.

Anyone who works with concrete knows that if you don't clean the tools
right away, that "thin layer" is a bitch to remove later when the
concrete / cement has cured.

I've repaired spalling and flaking in the surface of poured patio slabs
with thin layers of mortar (ie - sand and cement, no stone) with the
repair being as thin as 1/16 of an inch in some areas, and after 10
years that layer is still bonded to the concrete slab. Even a decade of
freeze/thaw hasn't lifted these patches.

The key is to clean the substrate so you can god damn eat off of it
before you apply the resurfacing.

There are bonding "helpers" that, interestingly enough has a latex
component (looks like white, milky stuff) that you paint on and before
it dries you apply the overlaying cement / mortar mix patch.
But topping solid concrete is a whole lot different than topping
deteriorated asphalt - and it is virtually impossible to get the
asphalt clean enough to bond concrete to it effectively.

The bonding agent is basically white glue

On Thursday, May 22, 2014 7:10:24 AM UTC-7, HomeGuy wrote:
Harry K wrote:
Yep. A thin layer of concrete has almost no cohesive power.
Harry K

Bunch of fools.

Anyone who works with concrete knows that if you don't clean the tools
right away, that "thin layer" is a bitch to remove later when the
concrete / cement has cured.

I've repaired spalling and flaking in the surface of poured patio slabs
with thin layers of mortar (ie - sand and cement, no stone) with the
repair being as thin as 1/16 of an inch in some areas, and after 10
years that layer is still bonded to the concrete slab. Even a decade of
freeze/thaw hasn't lifted these patches.

The key is to clean the substrate so you can god damn eat off of it
before you apply the resurfacing.

There are bonding "helpers" that, interestingly enough has a latex
component (looks like white, milky stuff) that you paint on and before
it dries you apply the overlaying cement / mortar mix patch.

You are talking about a thin layer applied to a firm foundation. We are talking about a layer applied to a cracked and breking up black top. Good luck with your method.

Harry K