Has anyone else used this?

Pour a pool of latex paint from a can you do not need anymore onto the
concrete floor section you want to strip of the dried latex paint.
Wait until it is dry to the touch (a few hours or overnight or even a
few days). Peel off with a putty knife.

I happened on this while cleaning latex paint splatters from my living
room walls onto the concrete floor and seeing how easily the
relatively new splatters just peeled off and left the underlying floor
free of the old, dried, otherwise super hard to remove latex. I am
prepping the floor for laying groutable, peel and stick tile.

On Jun 5, 11:23*am, Elle wrote:
Has anyone else used this?

Pour a pool of latex paint from a can you do not need anymore onto the
concrete floor section you want to strip of the dried latex paint.
Wait until it is dry to the touch (a few hours or overnight or even a
few days). Peel off with a putty knife.

I happened on this while cleaning latex paint splatters from my living
room walls onto the concrete floor and seeing how easily the
relatively new splatters just peeled off and left the underlying floor
free of the old, dried, otherwise super hard to remove latex. I am
prepping the floor for laying groutable, peel and stick tile.

I have used paint stripper on floor paint NOTE ITS VERY SLIPPERY.

you might try a pressure washer sounds like your paint isnt very well
adhered...

On Jun 5, 10:54*am, bob haller wrote:
I have used paint stripper on floor paint NOTE ITS VERY SLIPPERY.

you might try a pressure washer sounds like your paint isnt very well
adhered...

I will consider the pressure washer, thanks.

I have used three different chemicals so far with varying but pretty
incomplete success:

KleanStrip stripper (big mess; very toxic; need thick gloves and good
ventilation)

A chemical that comes in a spray bottle for specifically latex
removal. Lowe's sells it. I think it is better than the KleanStrip.

Acetone, which is not bad once the old paint layer is thinned down.

80-grit sandpaper is not bad but it requires much labor.

A Harbor Freight floor scraper is just a little better than my putty
knives.

Plain water worked well on one section. I soaked the area for a
minute, and the dried latex peeled up with a putty knife pretty
easily. But no luck with water with most of the floor.

I am a little concerned about how well the peel-and-stick vinyl tile
will adhere after all the chemicals.

I am experimenting further with pouring pools of latex paint from a
can I do not need anymore. Pouring them to the right thickness is key.
Do not spread the pool. The floor looks really clean in the spot where
a pool was after the latex is peeled up in pretty much one piece.

On Tue, 5 Jun 2012 12:14:39 -0700 (PDT), Elle
wrote:

On Jun 5, 10:54*am, bob haller wrote:
I have used paint stripper on floor paint NOTE ITS VERY SLIPPERY.

you might try a pressure washer sounds like your paint isnt very well
adhered...

I will consider the pressure washer, thanks.

Inside your home? Imagine the mess you can make.

snip


80-grit sandpaper is not bad but it requires much labor.


That is easier using an orbital hand sander.

snip

I am experimenting further with pouring pools of latex paint from a
can I do not need anymore. Pouring them to the right thickness is key.
Do not spread the pool. The floor looks really clean in the spot where
a pool was after the latex is peeled up in pretty much one piece.


Why? Aren't you trying the clean the floor? I'm confused.

On Jun 5, 2:01*pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 5 Jun 2012 12:14:39 -0700 (PDT), Elle

I will consider the pressure washer, thanks.

Inside your home? Imagine the mess you can make.

I know. I'd hang plastic sheets first.

I am in a very dry climate. I think surface prep for peel-n-stick
vinyl tile is even more important than in a humid climate. Plenty
where I live say they have had success, though, especially using extra
adhesive.

80-grit sandpaper is not bad but it requires much labor.

That is easier using an orbital hand sander.

Okay.

I am experimenting further with pouring pools of latex paint from a
can I do not need anymore. Pouring them to the right thickness is key.
Do not spread the pool. The floor looks really clean in the spot where
a pool was after the latex is peeled up in pretty much one piece.

Why? Aren't you trying the clean the floor? *I'm confused.

Pouring fresh latex paint on a concrete floor with old, dried, tightly
adhered latex paint, then letting the fresh paint dry for about eight
hours, causes the new paint to adhere to the old paint. The whole
puddle is easily peel-able and pulls the old, dried latex right up.

On Tue, 5 Jun 2012 13:08:17 -0700 (PDT), Elle
wrote:

On Jun 5, 2:01*pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 5 Jun 2012 12:14:39 -0700 (PDT), Elle

I will consider the pressure washer, thanks.

Inside your home? Imagine the mess you can make.

I know. I'd hang plastic sheets first.


Giggle. Make a video for Youtube, so we can watch it.

I am in a very dry climate. I think surface prep for peel-n-stick
vinyl tile is even more important than in a humid climate. Plenty
where I live say they have had success, though, especially using extra
adhesive.

80-grit sandpaper is not bad but it requires much labor.

That is easier using an orbital hand sander.

Okay.

Or a belt sander...


I am experimenting further with pouring pools of latex paint from a
can I do not need anymore. Pouring them to the right thickness is key.
Do not spread the pool. The floor looks really clean in the spot where
a pool was after the latex is peeled up in pretty much one piece.

Why? Aren't you trying the clean the floor? *I'm confused.

Pouring fresh latex paint on a concrete floor with old, dried, tightly
adhered latex paint, then letting the fresh paint dry for about eight
hours, causes the new paint to adhere to the old paint. The whole
puddle is easily peel-able and pulls the old, dried latex right up.

Sounds like a waste of paint and physical effort to me. Just sayin'.

On Jun 5, 10:23*am, Elle wrote:
Has anyone else used this?

Pour a pool of latex paint from a can you do not need anymore onto the
concrete floor section you want to strip of the dried latex paint.
Wait until it is dry to the touch (a few hours or overnight or even a
few days). Peel off with a putty knife.

I happened on this while cleaning latex paint splatters from my living
room walls onto the concrete floor and seeing how easily the
relatively new splatters just peeled off and left the underlying floor
free of the old, dried, otherwise super hard to remove latex. I am
prepping the floor for laying groutable, peel and stick tile.

You are lucky you didn't have a bigger mess to try to peel off that
didn't respond well like you say it did.

On Jun 5, 8:23*am, Elle wrote:
Has anyone else used this?

Pour a pool of latex paint from a can you do not need anymore onto the
concrete floor section you want to strip of the dried latex paint.
Wait until it is dry to the touch (a few hours or overnight or even a
few days). Peel off with a putty knife.

I happened on this while cleaning latex paint splatters from my living
room walls onto the concrete floor and seeing how easily the
relatively new splatters just peeled off and left the underlying floor
free of the old, dried, otherwise super hard to remove latex. I am
prepping the floor for laying groutable, peel and stick tile.

Genius!

I first tried paint stripper but that left horrible faint residues.

Then accidently stumbled on using a quaternary compound used at health
and veterinarian clinics to santize betwen patients. Made by Brulins
out of Indiana, sole in janitorial suppliers, called Unicide. We use
Unicide 256 that is supposed to be cut 256:1 so 1oz makes a gallon
equal in killing power to a gallon of bleach. Only cut around 16-20:1
and spray on latex, and it peels right up! Plus it's soapy and cleans
as you go! When done all splatters gone and surface looks like it's
been washed, which it has.

On Jun 5, 6:28*pm, Robert Macy wrote:
I first tried paint stripper but that left horrible faint residues.

Then accidently stumbled on using a quaternary compound used at health
and veterinarian clinics to santize betwen patients. Made by Brulins
out of Indiana, sole in janitorial suppliers, called Unicide. We use
Unicide 256 that is supposed to be cut 256:1 so 1oz makes a gallon
equal in killing power to a gallon of bleach. *Only cut around 16-20:1
and spray on latex, and it peels right up! Plus it's soapy and cleans
as you go! When done all splatters gone and surface looks like it's
been washed, which it has.

I am trying to locate Unicide 256 where I live. Brulin has a web site
at brulin.com with contact info so I could maybe locate a distributor
where I am.

The MSDS for Unicide 256 may be found easily via a google search. It
appears the active ingredient of Unicide 256 is various forms of
ammonium chloride. I caution folks about using home recipes. Remember
what bleach and ammonia mixed together produce, for one. The fumes can
severely burn a person's lungs.

Regarding my "trick" pouring pools of liquid latex onto the old,
adhered latex on the concrete floor: Best results are with small
pools, no more than six-inch diameter, and a low humidity. I am in the
southwest. I do not know that this trick will work as well in the
humid Midwest.

Oren, I am working on that youtube video.

On Jun 5, 8:23*am, Elle wrote:
Has anyone else used this?

Pour a pool of latex paint from a can you do not need anymore onto the
concrete floor section you want to strip of the dried latex paint.
Wait until it is dry to the touch (a few hours or overnight or even a
few days). Peel off with a putty knife.

I happened on this while cleaning latex paint splatters from my living
room walls onto the concrete floor and seeing how easily the
relatively new splatters just peeled off and left the underlying floor
free of the old, dried, otherwise super hard to remove latex. I am
prepping the floor for laying groutable, peel and stick tile.

What has worked well for me is using an old iron on the steam
setting. It'll make the iron unusable for clothes, but it works
better than any chemical. Just let it sit for 5 to 10 seconds on the
concrete while it steams, and then scrape or wire brush off the
paint.

I

On Tuesday, June 5, 2012 9:23:42 AM UTC-6, Elle wrote:
Has anyone else used this?

Pour a pool of latex paint from a can you do not need anymore onto the
concrete floor section you want to strip of the dried latex paint.
Wait until it is dry to the touch (a few hours or overnight or even a
few days). Peel off with a putty knife.

I happened on this while cleaning latex paint splatters from my living
room walls onto the concrete floor and seeing how easily the
relatively new splatters just peeled off and left the underlying floor
free of the old, dried, otherwise super hard to remove latex. I am
prepping the floor for laying groutable, peel and stick tile.

I have just about concluded my concrete prep. My fingers are crossed.

One has to have a lot of old latex paint lying around for the pour-dry-peel method above. It did mostly help.

I bought some muriatic acid, diluted it to about 5%, and tried it outside first. I neutralized (hopefully) with a bit of diluted bleach. I tried it inside on about one square foot. The fumes are a bit much. I switched to plain old white vinegar (still neutralizing with some bleach) and got decent results here and there.

I tried the hot iron set on steam setting that mike suggested, with a thin rag between the iron and floor. No luck.

The leveling compound I will be using says that whatever is still adhering to the concrete had better adhere to the tune of at least 75 psi. I took my air compressor, set it at 120 psi, and went over the floor. It pulled up some of the old paint. I vacuumed. I am going to rinse the floor down a few times in the next several days, let it dry out a couple days, go over it once more with the vacuum, then put the leveling compound down and hope all is well.

On Thu, 21 Jun 2012 12:32:27 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Tuesday, June 5, 2012 9:23:42 AM UTC-6, Elle wrote:
Has anyone else used this?

Pour a pool of latex paint from a can you do not need anymore onto the
concrete floor section you want to strip of the dried latex paint.
Wait until it is dry to the touch (a few hours or overnight or even a
few days). Peel off with a putty knife.

I happened on this while cleaning latex paint splatters from my living
room walls onto the concrete floor and seeing how easily the
relatively new splatters just peeled off and left the underlying floor
free of the old, dried, otherwise super hard to remove latex. I am
prepping the floor for laying groutable, peel and stick tile.

I have just about concluded my concrete prep. My fingers are crossed.

One has to have a lot of old latex paint lying around for the pour-dry-peel method above. It did mostly help.

I bought some muriatic acid, diluted it to about 5%, and tried it outside first. I neutralized (hopefully) with a bit of diluted bleach.

Neutralizing an ACID with BLEACH????
You gotta be NUTS!!!! You neutralize acid with something like baking
soda or lime. NOT SODIUM HYPERCHLORITE!!!


I tried it inside on about one square foot. The fumes are a bit much. I switched to plain old white vinegar (still neutralizing with some bleach) and got decent results here and there.

I tried the hot iron set on steam setting that mike suggested, with a thin rag between the iron and floor. No luck.

The leveling compound I will be using says that whatever is still adhering to the concrete had better adhere to the tune of at least 75 psi. I took my air compressor, set it at 120 psi, and went over the floor. It pulled up some of the old paint. I vacuumed. I am going to rinse the floor down a few times in the next several days, let it dry out a couple days, go over it once more with the vacuum, then put the leveling compound down and hope all is well.

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 21 Jun 2012 12:32:27 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Tuesday, June 5, 2012 9:23:42 AM UTC-6, Elle wrote:
Has anyone else used this?

Pour a pool of latex paint from a can you do not need anymore onto the
concrete floor section you want to strip of the dried latex paint.
Wait until it is dry to the touch (a few hours or overnight or even a
few days). Peel off with a putty knife.

I happened on this while cleaning latex paint splatters from my living
room walls onto the concrete floor and seeing how easily the
relatively new splatters just peeled off and left the underlying floor
free of the old, dried, otherwise super hard to remove latex. I am
prepping the floor for laying groutable, peel and stick tile.

I have just about concluded my concrete prep. My fingers are crossed.

One has to have a lot of old latex paint lying around for the
pour-dry-peel method above. It did mostly help.

I bought some muriatic acid, diluted it to about 5%, and tried it outside
first. I neutralized (hopefully) with a bit of diluted bleach.

Neutralizing an ACID with BLEACH????
You gotta be NUTS!!!! You neutralize acid with something like baking
soda or lime. NOT SODIUM HYPERCHLORITE!!!

Muriatic acid and bleach releases chlorine gas, (world war one mustard gas)
which will destroy your lungs and can kill you. You neutralize acid with a
base.

On Thursday, June 21, 2012 4:26:30 PM UTC-6, EXT wrote:
wrote in message
Elle wrote
I bought some muriatic acid, diluted it to about 5%, and tried it outside
first. I neutralized (hopefully) with a bit of diluted bleach.

Neutralizing an ACID with BLEACH????
You gotta be NUTS!!!! You neutralize acid with something like baking
soda or lime. NOT SODIUM HYPERCHLORITE!!!

See http://www.somay.com/floor/concrete-...eparation.html. See steps 3 and 4.

Muriatic acid and bleach releases chlorine gas, (world war one mustard gas)

I agree one must be careful with the acid and bleach. There is more to mustard gas than what you say above.

which will destroy your lungs and can kill you. You neutralize acid with a
base.

Clorox is a base with a pH of about 13. It neutralizes an acid.

I appreciate the cautions both of you offer, but FWIW to readers, I think the two of you are overstating the case a bit.

On Fri, 22 Jun 2012 06:56:31 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Thursday, June 21, 2012 4:26:30 PM UTC-6, EXT wrote:
wrote in message
Elle wrote
I bought some muriatic acid, diluted it to about 5%, and tried it outside
first. I neutralized (hopefully) with a bit of diluted bleach.

Neutralizing an ACID with BLEACH????
You gotta be NUTS!!!! You neutralize acid with something like baking
soda or lime. NOT SODIUM HYPERCHLORITE!!!

See http://www.somay.com/floor/concrete-...eparation.html. See steps 3 and 4.

Muriatic acid and bleach releases chlorine gas, (world war one mustard gas)

I agree one must be careful with the acid and bleach. There is more to mustard gas than what you say above.

which will destroy your lungs and can kill you. You neutralize acid with a
base.

Clorox is a base with a pH of about 13. It neutralizes an acid.

Yes, it neutralizes the acid - but what does the acid do to the
bleach? It causes it to break down, releasing CHLORINE (which is
different than mustard gas (made using sulphur dichloride and
ethyelene)) Depending what acid is used, Sulphur Dioxide can also be
produced -or hypochlorous acid, - or even thionoyl Chloride.

I appreciate the cautions both of you offer, but FWIW to readers, I think the two of you are overstating the case a bit.

I'd rather overstate the case a bit than see someone suffer the rest
of their life with lung problems - a life which may also be
significantly shorter than normal.