This door is hard to slide. The track itself looks ok and the door doesn't drag on the threshold, so I'm guessing the rollers are clogged with pet hair and dirt, etc. I have changed rollers on other doors and in those cases the door just lifted up and tilted out from the bottom. This one looks to me like it was installed backwards or something because I cannot lift the door high enough to get over the bottom lip on the inside and it seems my only option is to remove the stationary pane and tilt it out going the other way. I cannot seem to figure out how to get the stationary pane out though. In the last two pics you can see metal plate things at the top and bottom held on with screws. I have removed these thinking I would be able to slide the stationary pane away from the jamb and then tilt it out, but I couldn't get it to budge, and I was afraid of bending something or breaking the glass.

Or does anyone see some other way to get this out this that I'm not seeing?


This is looking at the sliding pane from the inside:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...psb79588a8.jpg


This is a close-up of the bottom lip on the inside. You can see there is no way the door will lift high enough to get over this lip:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...psd557db31.jpg


This is a close-up of the top of the frame from the inside:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps685198d2.jpg


This is looking at the lower track from the outside. The right pane is the slider, the left is stationary:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...pse374d769.jpg


And this is looking at the upper part of the track from the outside. Right pane is the slider, left is stationary:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...psa5898374.jpg

Dumb question, but did you slide the operating half to the same side as the stationary half?


It might lift out from that side. There might be an up-stop screwed into the overhead portion of the track on the closed side of the frame, keeping you from lifting the door out on that side.

On Monday, February 10, 2014 12:00:20 PM UTC-7, wrote:
Dumb question, but did you slide the operating half to the same side as the stationary half?





It might lift out from that side. There might be an up-stop screwed into the overhead portion of the track on the closed side of the frame, keeping you from lifting the door out on that side.


Yeah, I know what you mean. There's nothing like that. It is just that the lip on the bottom is too tall for the amount of clearance between the top of the slider and the frame. You can actually see the top of the door hitting the frame when you lift it and there's still about another 3/8" of lip to overcome.

On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 14:15:29 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 10:51:00 -0800 (PST), Dave
wrote:

This door is hard to slide. The track itself looks ok and the door doesn't drag on the threshold, so I'm guessing the rollers are clogged with pet hair and dirt, etc. I have changed rollers on other doors and in those cases the door just lifted up and tilted out from the bottom. This one looks to me like it was installed backwards or something because I cannot lift the door high enough to get over the bottom lip on the inside and it seems my only option is to remove the stationary pane and tilt it out going the other way. I cannot seem to figure out how to get the stationary pane out though. In the last two pics you can see metal plate things at the top and bottom held on with screws. I have removed these thinking I would be able to slide the stationary pane away from the jamb and then tilt it out, but I couldn't get it to budge, and I was afraid of bending something or breaking the glass.

Or does anyone see some other way to get this out this that I'm not seeing?


This is looking at the sliding pane from the inside:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...psb79588a8.jpg


This is a close-up of the bottom lip on the inside. You can see there is no way the door will lift high enough to get over this lip:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...psd557db31.jpg


This is a close-up of the top of the frame from the inside:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps685198d2.jpg


This is looking at the lower track from the outside. The right pane is the slider, the left is stationary:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...pse374d769.jpg


And this is looking at the upper part of the track from the outside. Right pane is the slider, left is stationary:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...psa5898374.jpg

Did you remove that blocking clip at the top? That is there to keep
the door from coming out.

I have basically the same door. It requires moving the slider over to
center and then lifting the door out from inside.

Now days doors have anti-lift stops in the top channel (burglary).

Sliding the door over allows the door to be lifted when opened half
way, but not when closed against the jamb side. Some windows act the
same way.

On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 11:07:59 -0800 (PST), Dave
wrote:


Yeah, I know what you mean. There's nothing like that. It is just that the lip on the bottom is too tall for the amount of clearance between the top of the slider and the frame. You can actually see the top of the door hitting the frame when you lift it and there's still about another 3/8" of lip to overcome.

On the side (s) of the door (bottom) is a hole to adjust the rollers
up and down. Lower the rollers to gain some extra clearance to lift
the door out from the inside.

After new rollers / cleaning, ensure the rollers are in the lowest
setting upon placing the door back in. Then adjust the roller height.

My door is 8' dual pane temped glass. You may need some help lifting
the operator out.

On 2/10/2014 2:07 PM, Dave wrote:
On Monday, February 10, 2014 12:00:20 PM UTC-7, wrote:
Dumb question, but did you slide the operating half to the same side as the stationary half?





It might lift out from that side. There might be an up-stop screwed into the overhead portion of the track on the closed side of the frame, keeping you from lifting the door out on that side.


Yeah, I know what you mean. There's nothing like that. It is just that the lip on the bottom is too tall for the amount of clearance between the top of the slider and the frame. You can actually see the top of the door hitting the frame when you lift it and there's still about another 3/8" of lip to overcome.


It looks like the brackets with the slot will release the door if the
screws are loosened....tried that? Probably then would be able to lift
the door enough so that the bottom clears the track.

On Monday, February 10, 2014 2:15:29 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 10:51:00 -0800 (PST), Davil.com




Did you remove that blocking clip at the top? That is there to keep

the door from coming out.
____________

That's what I was referring to in my intial post as "up-stop".

On Monday, February 10, 2014 3:34:55 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:


setting upon placing the door back in. Then adjust the roller height.


______________________

Had probably the same type door in the apt I used to live in - to the balcony.


Roller height screw(assume it was a roller height screw, on the edge of the door facing the jamb it closes into) - but the door was at least 30 years old and that screw was seized permanently! Dynamite would not have loosened it. LOL!

On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 11:00:20 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Dumb question, but did you slide the operating half to the same side as the stationary half?


It might lift out from that side. There might be an up-stop screwed into the overhead portion of the track on the closed side of the frame, keeping you from lifting the door out on that side.

It woudn't have to be screwed in.

I put a piece of broom stick, classic straw broom stick, above my
sliding door, and when I open the door, the broom stick travesl with it.

I'd have to open it part way and push the broom stick out to remove the
door.

On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 12:34:55 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 11:07:59 -0800 (PST), Dave
wrote:


Yeah, I know what you mean. There's nothing like that. It is just that the lip on the bottom is too tall for the amount of clearance between the top of the slider and the frame. You can actually see the top of the door hitting the frame when you lift it and there's still about another 3/8" of lip to overcome.

On the side (s) of the door (bottom) is a hole to adjust the rollers
up and down. Lower the rollers to gain some extra clearance to lift
the door out from the inside.

After new rollers / cleaning, ensure the rollers are in the lowest
setting upon placing the door back in. Then adjust the roller height.

My door is 8' dual pane temped glass. You may need some help lifting
the operator out.

Absolutely. And the worst part is when you got it out alone and still
don't realize how heavy it is, and it's an inch from where it was, but
then you try to tip it. It almost went over my arms to crash on the
inside floor. Once I stepped back a few steps I was able to hold it and
lay it down or whatever.

On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 13:07:52 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Monday, February 10, 2014 3:34:55 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:


setting upon placing the door back in. Then adjust the roller height.


______________________

Had probably the same type door in the apt I used to live in - to the balcony.


Roller height screw(assume it was a roller height screw, on the edge of the door facing the jamb it closes into) - but the door was at least 30 years old and that screw was seized permanently! Dynamite would not have loosened it. LOL!

Unlike draining the WH, this might be worth moving once in a while, just
to keep it loose. Good think I did it to both doors a year after I
moved in... Oops, that was 30 years ago.

Dave,

You've done the top and bottom clips. The stationary panel is now held in
by a decades worth of crud. Check for old caulk. Lift it with a pry bar.
Once the pry bar ungums it, it will slide towards the middle. From there you
can pick it up and swing the bottom free of the door frame. Et c.
You're doing the right things, just be a little more forceful. This
really isn't a Winter job.

Dave M.

On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 13:07:52 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Monday, February 10, 2014 3:34:55 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:


setting upon placing the door back in. Then adjust the roller height.


______________________

Had probably the same type door in the apt I used to live in - to the balcony.


Roller height screw(assume it was a roller height screw, on the edge of the door facing the jamb it closes into) - but the door was at least 30 years old and that screw was seized permanently! Dynamite would not have loosened it. LOL!

My door, and a good chance, the OP has tandem rollers. One on each
side of the door. The screw is Phillips head.

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/049793/049793018441.jpg

On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 14:18:57 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 13:07:52 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Monday, February 10, 2014 3:34:55 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:


setting upon placing the door back in. Then adjust the roller height.


______________________

Had probably the same type door in the apt I used to live in - to the balcony.


Roller height screw(assume it was a roller height screw, on the edge of the door facing the jamb it closes into) - but the door was at least 30 years old and that screw was seized permanently! Dynamite would not have loosened it. LOL!

My door, and a good chance, the OP has tandem rollers. One on each
side of the door. The screw is Phillips head.

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/049793/049793018441.jpg

Those are nice. I've not chintzy nylon rolers, about the size of a
thimble. One at each end.

Micky wrote: "unlike draining the WH"


????????

Oren wrote: "The screw is Philips head"


Not anymore - Mine was a perfectly round hole in the head of the screw after I stripped the **** out it! LOL

Oh well, I don't live there anymore, someone else's headache.

Dave wrote:

...snip...

You do realize that we can see a lot of pictures that have nothing to do
with your sliding door, right?

On Monday, February 10, 2014 10:51:00 AM UTC-8, Dave wrote:
This door is hard to slide. The track itself looks ok and the door doesn't drag on the threshold, so I'm guessing the rollers are clogged with pet hair and dirt, etc. I have changed rollers on other doors and in those cases the door just lifted up and tilted out from the bottom. This one looks to me like it was installed backwards or something because I cannot lift the door high enough to get over the bottom lip on the inside and it seems my only option is to remove the stationary pane and tilt it out going the other way. I cannot seem to figure out how to get the stationary pane out though. In the last two pics you can see metal plate things at the top and bottom held on with screws. I have removed these thinking I would be able to slide the stationary pane away from the jamb and then tilt it out, but I couldn't get it to budge, and I was afraid of bending something or breaking the glass.



Or does anyone see some other way to get this out this that I'm not seeing?





This is looking at the sliding pane from the inside:

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...psb79588a8.jpg





This is a close-up of the bottom lip on the inside. You can see there is no way the door will lift high enough to get over this lip:

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...psd557db31.jpg





This is a close-up of the top of the frame from the inside:

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps685198d2.jpg





This is looking at the lower track from the outside. The right pane is the slider, the left is stationary:

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...pse374d769.jpg





And this is looking at the upper part of the track from the outside. Right pane is the slider, left is stationary:

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...psa5898374.jpg

I had much the same problem - obviously needed new rollers, not just cleaning. Couldn't get it high enough for the rollers to clear the channel - cause - sub floor swelled a bit. 3 of us (2 window guys and me) managed to pry it far enough. I ground a 'notch' in two spots so the rollers could clear to get it out. A few years later I was once again using a hair dryer to thaw the ice out of the end of the channel with a -20* wind blowing snow down my back. That did it - that sumabitch was ging to disappear when the weather warmed up. It did. I swore then that I would never again have a house with one of those abortions. Worse method of closing a hole in a wall that was ever invented. **** poor insulation around the edge, flimsy locks, channel a perfect place to collect crude, etc. I now have a door that seals, locks, well insulated and DOES NOT USE ROLLERS.

Harry K.

On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 14:59:03 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Micky wrote: "unlike draining the WH"


????????

We've had other threads where people want to drain the water heater,
even where there is no great need, but great risk.

On Monday, February 10, 2014 3:04:49 PM UTC-7, David L. Martel wrote:
Dave,

You've done the top and bottom clips. The stationary panel is now held in
by a decades worth of crud. Check for old caulk. Lift it with a pry bar.
Once the pry bar ungums it, it will slide towards the middle. From there you
can pick it up and swing the bottom free of the door frame. Et c.
You're doing the right things, just be a little more forceful. This
really isn't a Winter job.

Dave M.

Thanks Dave. You seem to be one of the few that bothered to absorb what I was saying in my original post. I'll have another crack at the stationary side this weekend. I live in Phoenix so we don't really have "winter" here.. The high this weekend is expected to be 86 so I don't imagine the weather to be a part of the problem I had in getting the door loose. :-)

"Harry K" wrote in message
...
On Monday, February 10, 2014 10:51:00 AM UTC-8, Dave wrote:
This door is hard to slide. The track itself looks ok and the door
doesn't drag on the threshold, so I'm guessing the rollers are clogged
with pet hair and dirt, etc. I have changed rollers on other doors and in
those cases the door just lifted up and tilted out from the bottom. This
one looks to me like it was installed backwards or something because I
cannot lift the door high enough to get over the bottom lip on the inside
and it seems my only option is to remove the stationary pane and tilt it
out going the other way. I cannot seem to figure out how to get the
stationary pane out though. In the last two pics you can see metal plate
things at the top and bottom held on with screws. I have removed these
thinking I would be able to slide the stationary pane away from the jamb
and then tilt it out, but I couldn't get it to budge, and I was afraid of
bending something or breaking the glass.



Or does anyone see some other way to get this out this that I'm not
seeing?





This is looking at the sliding pane from the inside:

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...psb79588a8.jpg





This is a close-up of the bottom lip on the inside. You can see there is
no way the door will lift high enough to get over this lip:

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...psd557db31.jpg





This is a close-up of the top of the frame from the inside:

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps685198d2.jpg





This is looking at the lower track from the outside. The right pane is
the slider, the left is stationary:

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...pse374d769.jpg





And this is looking at the upper part of the track from the outside.
Right pane is the slider, left is stationary:

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...psa5898374.jpg

I had much the same problem - obviously needed new rollers, not just
cleaning. Couldn't get it high enough for the rollers to clear the
channel - cause - sub floor swelled a bit. 3 of us (2 window guys and me)
managed to pry it far enough. I ground a 'notch' in two spots so the
rollers could clear to get it out. A few years later I was once again using
a hair dryer to thaw the ice out of the end of the channel with a -20* wind
blowing snow down my back. That did it - that sumabitch was ging to
disappear when the weather warmed up. It did. I swore then that I would
never again have a house with one of those abortions. Worse method of
closing a hole in a wall that was ever invented. **** poor insulation
around the edge, flimsy locks, channel a perfect place to collect crude,
etc. I now have a door that seals, locks, well insulated and DOES NOT USE
ROLLERS.

Harry K.

Mr. Harry K said what I could never think to say. Fortunately I've never
owned, nor lived in a home with a sliding glass door. Growing up, and seeing
them at friends homes, I always thought they were the coolest things ever.
After reading this ,and remembering the guilt I felt when it was my turn to
open such a door and inevitably it would jam, or just come off a track and I
felt responsible. Reading all this nonsense has taught me a valuable
lesson.Just say no.

Daniel

"Daniel Cairns" wrote:

....snip...

Mr. Harry K said what I could never think to say. Fortunately I've never
owned, nor lived in a home with a sliding glass door. Growing up, and seeing
them at friends homes, I always thought they were the coolest things ever.
After reading this ,and remembering the guilt I felt when it was my turn to
open such a door and inevitably it would jam, or just come off a track and I
felt responsible. Reading all this nonsense has taught me a valuable
lesson.Just say no.

Daniel

On the other hand, you may be basing your "just say no" on poor
installations and/or cheap doors.

I installed a good quality, insulated glass, aluminum clad wooden sliding
patio door about 20 years ago. Still love it and operate it multiple,
multiple times a day (I have an old dog with bladder problems and a cat who
hates being inside but keeps forgetting how cold it is outside)

It rolls effortlessly, it locks securely with the vertical deadbolt I
added, it doesn't leak air. It just does what it was intended to do: give
us easy access to the deck and not take up any floorspace inside the room
when open.

I don't want to sound mean, but based on the pictures from the OP, I could
see why no one would want a sliding glass door. However, if you buy a
quality door and install it correctly, they can provide decades of trouble
free operation.

On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:01:42 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I don't want to sound mean, but based on the pictures from the OP, I could
see why no one would want a sliding glass door. However, if you buy a
quality door and install it correctly, they can provide decades of trouble
free operation.

+1

I'm confused as to why the OP feels the need to remove the outside
stationary panel to clean the inside operator panel rollers that are
clogged with dust, dirt and pet dander.

I live an eight hour drive north on him - in the desert.

Color me skeptical.

On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 11:01:42 AM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
"Daniel Cairns" wrote:

Mr. Harry K said what I could never think to say. Fortunately I've never
owned, nor lived in a home with a sliding glass door. Growing up, and seeing
them at friends homes, I always thought they were the coolest things ever.

After reading this ,and remembering the guilt I felt when it was my turn
open such a door and inevitably it would jam, or just come off a track and
felt responsible. Reading all this nonsense has taught me a valuable
lesson.Just say no.
Daniel

On the other hand, you may be basing your "just say no" on poor
installations and/or cheap doors.
I installed a good quality, insulated glass, aluminum clad wooden sliding
patio door about 20 years ago. Still love it and operate it multiple,
multiple times a day (I have an old dog with bladder problems and a cat who
hates being inside but keeps forgetting how cold it is outside)
It rolls effortlessly, it locks securely with the vertical deadbolt I
added, it doesn't leak air. It just does what it was intended to do: give
us easy access to the deck and not take up any floorspace inside the room
when open.

I don't want to sound mean, but based on the pictures from the OP, I could
see why no one would want a sliding glass door. However, if you buy a
quality door and install it correctly, they can provide decades of trouble
free operation.

My POS was an Anderson door, definitely a quality door, installed in 1984. Replaced the rollers twice, every winter down there with a hair dryer cleaning snow/ice out of the track and cussing the abortion every time. Removed it 20012.

As for a normal door taking up space in the room - install it correctly (opening OUT) solves that. That also makes the house more secure - almost impossible to kick in a door that opens out.

Harry K

Harry K wrote:
On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 11:01:42 AM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
"Daniel Cairns" wrote:

Mr. Harry K said what I could never think to say. Fortunately I've never
owned, nor lived in a home with a sliding glass door. Growing up, and seeing
them at friends homes, I always thought they were the coolest things ever.

After reading this ,and remembering the guilt I felt when it was my turn
open such a door and inevitably it would jam, or just come off a track and
felt responsible. Reading all this nonsense has taught me a valuable
lesson.Just say no.
Daniel

On the other hand, you may be basing your "just say no" on poor
installations and/or cheap doors.
I installed a good quality, insulated glass, aluminum clad wooden sliding
patio door about 20 years ago. Still love it and operate it multiple,
multiple times a day (I have an old dog with bladder problems and a cat who
hates being inside but keeps forgetting how cold it is outside)
It rolls effortlessly, it locks securely with the vertical deadbolt I
added, it doesn't leak air. It just does what it was intended to do: give
us easy access to the deck and not take up any floorspace inside the room
when open.

I don't want to sound mean, but based on the pictures from the OP, I could
see why no one would want a sliding glass door. However, if you buy a
quality door and install it correctly, they can provide decades of trouble
free operation.

My POS was an Anderson door, definitely a quality door, installed in
1984. Replaced the rollers twice, every winter down there with a hair
dryer cleaning snow/ice out of the track and cussing the abortion every
time. Removed it 20012.

How can you call it a POS and a quality door in the same sentence? That
makes absolutely no sense.

How often were you "down there" with a hair dryer? What caused ice and snow
to get in the track? My track is inside the house. It would be hard to get
ice or snow in it.

2012 - 1984 = 28. 2 sets of rollers in close to 3 decades? That doesn't
sound so bad. I've done one set


As for a normal door taking up space in the room - install it correctly
(opening OUT) solves that. That also makes the house more secure - almost
impossible to kick in a door that opens out.


When it opens out, does it open 180° so as not to take up any room on the
deck? Does it open when there is a foot of snow on the deck?

We often keep our sliding door open when it's raining. I wouldn't want the
inside of my wooden door exposed to the elements.

As far as kicking in the door, I don't consider that an issue. If they want
in, they're coming in. Did you happen to notice the 2 large panes of glass
that most sliding doors come with? If they want in, they're coming in.

On Monday, February 10, 2014 12:51:00 PM UTC-6, Dave wrote:
This door is hard to slide. The track itself looks ok and the door doesn't drag on the threshold, so I'm guessing the rollers are clogged with pet hair

------------------- Snipped -----------

Had similar door before. If it is the same as mine was, the 2 holes under the phillips head screws adjust the height of the roller assemblies (housing). If you loosen the housing, the whole door should lower itself and give you "wiggle" room to walk the door out.

Once it's out, should be able to get to the rollers. Found out mine were always wearing out the roller pins due to the weight.

Mine looked like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Lin...1822/202605907

On Wednesday, February 12, 2014 4:03:09 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Harry K wrote:

On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 11:01:42 AM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:


snip

My POS was an Anderson door, definitely a quality door, installed in
1984. Replaced the rollers twice, every winter down there with a hair
dryer cleaning snow/ice out of the track and cussing the abortion every
time. Removed it 20012.

How can you call it a POS and a quality door in the same sentence? That
makes absolutely no sense.

Sliding door = POS - the worst design ever developed for closing a hole in an outside wall.

How often were you "down there" with a hair dryer? What caused ice and snow
to get in the track? My track is inside the house. It would be hard to get
ice or snow in it.

Almost every time it snowed. It opened directly on to the patio, snow would lodge against the door, open it and it fell into the track, close door it pushed the snow against the jam and froze there.

2012 - 1984 = 28. 2 sets of rollers in close to 3 decades? That doesn't
sound so bad. I've done one set

And all the rest of my outside doors have not needed ANY roller replacement - your point is??

As for a normal door taking up space in the room - install it correctly
(opening OUT) solves that. That also makes the house more secure - almost
impossible to kick in a door that opens out.

When it opens out, does it open 180° so as not to take up any room on the
deck? Does it open when there is a foot of snow on the deck?

Almost and it takes up no useable room. It opens onto two steps going down so deep build up doesn't happen.

We often keep our sliding door open when it's raining. I wouldn't want the
inside of my wooden door exposed to the elements.

I'll put up with repainting over the problems people have trying to remove a slider to replace rollers any day.

As far as kicking in the door, I don't consider that an issue. If they want
in, they're coming in. Did you happen to notice the 2 large panes of glass
that most sliding doors come with? If they want in, they're coming in.

So you don't both locking up, got it.

At least you didn't pull the old "code prohibits doors opening out" which is an outright lie but shows up every time in these discussions. This is the first time it hasn't.

Harry K

Harry K wrote:
On Wednesday, February 12, 2014 4:03:09 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Harry K wrote:

On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 11:01:42 AM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:


snip

My POS was an Anderson door, definitely a quality door, installed in
1984. Replaced the rollers twice, every winter down there with a hair
dryer cleaning snow/ice out of the track and cussing the abortion every
time. Removed it 20012.

How can you call it a POS and a quality door in the same sentence? That
makes absolutely no sense.

Sliding door = POS - the worst design ever developed for closing a hole in an outside wall.

You opinion based on your bad experiences. That's fine.


How often were you "down there" with a hair dryer? What caused ice and snow
to get in the track? My track is inside the house. It would be hard to get
ice or snow in it.

Almost every time it snowed. It opened directly on to the patio, snow
would lodge against the door, open it and it fell into the track, close
door it pushed the snow against the jam and froze there.

Never happens to me. I get snow on my deck but I never have snow in the
track problems. Maybe it's the slanted design of the sill. Can't say
without comparing.


2012 - 1984 = 28. 2 sets of rollers in close to 3 decades? That doesn't
sound so bad. I've done one set

And all the rest of my outside doors have not needed ANY roller
replacement - your point is??

My point is that I like my sliding door much more than I would like a
swinging door. I like it enough that if I had to replace rollers once a
decade that would be a small price to pay for everything else I like about
the door.


As for a normal door taking up space in the room - install it correctly
(opening OUT) solves that. That also makes the house more secure - almost
impossible to kick in a door that opens out.

When it opens out, does it open 180° so as not to take up any room on the
deck? Does it open when there is a foot of snow on the deck?

Almost and it takes up no useable room. It opens onto two steps going
down so deep build up doesn't happen.

We step directly out onto the deck. Any door that opened onto the deck
would take up usable space. Different situations warrant different
applications.


We often keep our sliding door open when it's raining. I wouldn't want the
inside of my wooden door exposed to the elements.

I'll put up with repainting over the problems people have trying to
remove a slider to replace rollers any day.

My door is stained on the interior. I wouldn't want it outside.

As far as "problems" removing it, it goes back to the design of the door.
All that is required for me to remove the slider is 6 screws to remove a
piece of wooden molding at the top of the door and the panel just tilts
down into the room. It's a simple one man operation.


As far as kicking in the door, I don't consider that an issue. If they want
in, they're coming in. Did you happen to notice the 2 large panes of glass
that most sliding doors come with? If they want in, they're coming in.

So you don't both locking up, got it.

Now you're just being silly because you want to argue. Sensible people
don't make it easy, but no one can make it impossible.


At least you didn't pull the old "code prohibits doors opening out" which
is an outright lie but shows up every time in these discussions. This is
the first time it hasn't.

Harry K

Harry K wrote:
On Wednesday, February 12, 2014 4:03:09 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Harry K wrote:

On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 11:01:42 AM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:

.... A lot of back and forth (pun intended) about sliding doors has been
snipped...

Look, we could go on forever with you bad mouthing sliding doors and me
defending them, but the bottom line is this:

Millions of people have sliding doors and enjoy them. Some people have
sliding doors and hate them. Now, before you jump all over me about the
vagueness of the words "some people" there's a reason I said it that way.

We know for a fact that millions of sliding doors have been installed over
the years. We also know that we have seen many posts about people having
problems with their doors and about how much they hate them. What we
haven't seen are _millions_ of posts from people having problems with their
doors. What we will _never_ see is millions of posts from satisfied users
saying things like "Hi! Just checking in to let you know I love my sliding
door. I'm not having any problems with it."

It the same situation with just about any product. The happy people
typically stay silent unless they are specifically reviewing a product - or
defending it when someone makes a blanket statement such as "They all
suck". The unhappy people, or those with a problem that they are trying to
resolve, will post. Those that hate the product will point to those posts
as if they are overwhelming proof about how that product is. They will
neglect to point out that millions of satisfied users _aren't_ posting
about how happy they are.

I like my slider. You hated yours. I've never had a serious problem my
slider. You had multiple problems with yours. Based on my experience I
think sliders are great. Based on your experience you think sliders suck.
The major difference is that I don't think _all_ sliders are great, but you
appear to think that _all_ sliders suck.

So this project ended horribly. I managed to work the panel loose on one end but as I was working it, the outer pane (dual pane) shattered. Estimates to replace it range from $175 to $550. :-(

On Mon, 17 Feb 2014 10:38:01 -0800 (PST), Dave
wrote:

So this project ended horribly. I managed to work the panel loose on one end but as I was working it, the outer pane (dual pane) shattered. Estimates to replace it range from $175 to $550. :-(

I never did figure why you felt the need to remove the stationary
panel in the first place. I mentioned, gave some input, on how to get
the difficult operator panel out.

What you could do is check into a local glass company, take the frame
to them for a repair and install is yourself. Often cheaper. Don't
break it when you transport it back home.

Sigh.

Dave wrote:
So this project ended horribly. I managed to work the panel loose on one
end but as I was working it, the outer pane (dual pane) shattered.
Estimates to replace it range from $175 to $550. :-(

Based on the pictures of that door, I would probably replace the whole
unit. Get a better looking and better operating door.

Yes, it will cost more but I think it will be worth it in the long run.

On Monday, February 17, 2014 1:38:01 PM UTC-5, Dave wrote:
So this project ended horribly. I managed to work the panel loose on one end but as I was working it, the outer pane (dual pane) shattered. Estimates to replace it range from $175 to $550. :-(

Well, did you learn anything?

Jesus Christ and the Holy Angels writes:

On Monday, February 17, 2014 1:38:01 PM UTC-5, Dave wrote:
So this project ended horribly. I managed to work the panel loose
on one end but as I was working it, the outer pane (dual pane)
shattered. Estimates to replace it range from $175 to $550. :-(

Well, did you learn anything?

I'm reminded of the old adage,
you can't bake a cake without breaking a few eggs.

Sure he destroyed the door, but it needed fixing anyway.

I know a few of my repair projects have gone that way.
Worse is not doing anything.

--
Dan Espen

On Monday, February 17, 2014 at 1:38:01 PM UTC-5, Dave wrote:
So this project ended horribly. I managed to work the panel loose on one end but as I was working it, the outer pane (dual pane) shattered. Estimates to replace it range from $175 to $550. :-(

So it was stuck in there with tons of crud and you only needed to work it loose but more gently? I have what appears to be identical doors and have the exact same issue. Please help!

On 5/15/2020 6:52 PM, wrote:
On Monday, February 17, 2014 at 1:38:01 PM UTC-5, Dave wrote:
So this project ended horribly. I managed to work the panel loose on one end but as I was working it, the outer pane (dual pane) shattered. Estimates to replace it range from $175 to $550. :-(

So it was stuck in there with tons of crud and you only needed to work it loose but more gently? I have what appears to be identical doors and have the exact same issue. Please help!

The post you replied to is from six years ago. You may have a long wait
for a reply.