Doing some heavy duty cutting. Need to occasionally field sharpen a
blade. Are the Oregon/Dremel/et al 12 v. sharpeners worth it? Or is it
just as easy to get a good eye, and do it with a few strokes here and
there? I bought a Craftsman a long time ago. It was like putting
together an Erector set with little instructions, and had so many moving
parts, and clamp and unclamp. I just need to zip, zap, and go. I do
see making myself a bar clamp that will hold the entire saw, maybe a
little cradle for the motor to take some of the weight off the bar, but
something to hold the whole thing rock steady during sharpening.

Should I go with a 12v. model, and which one, or should I just get rat
tail files, and read up on it. I have a good idea about the round ones,
and so far had decent luck field sharpening saws in the field. I still
have no idea about the small mill ******* flat file, nor its use, nor
its setup/parameters. Help here?

Time is important, and I don't want to spend a lot of time in the field.
I can do that at home on an off day, but when I hit some dirt or a
rock, I need to get back sawing in a hurry.

TIA

Steve

"SteveB" wrote in message
...
Doing some heavy duty cutting. Need to occasionally field sharpen a
blade. Are the Oregon/Dremel/et al 12 v. sharpeners worth it? Or is it
just as easy to get a good eye, and do it with a few strokes here and
there? I bought a Craftsman a long time ago. It was like putting
together an Erector set with little instructions, and had so many moving
parts, and clamp and unclamp. I just need to zip, zap, and go. I do see
making myself a bar clamp that will hold the entire saw, maybe a little
cradle for the motor to take some of the weight off the bar, but something
to hold the whole thing rock steady during sharpening.

Should I go with a 12v. model, and which one, or should I just get rat
tail files, and read up on it. I have a good idea about the round ones,
and so far had decent luck field sharpening saws in the field. I still
have no idea about the small mill ******* flat file, nor its use, nor its
setup/parameters. Help here?

Time is important, and I don't want to spend a lot of time in the field. I
can do that at home on an off day, but when I hit some dirt or a rock, I
need to get back sawing in a hurry.

TIA

Steve

I've been sharpening mine with a plain old Dremel tool and a diamond burr
from a set I bought at Horrible Fright . Just happened the set I have has
one that's the right size for both of my saws , and it works just swell - a
lot better than the file I used to use . A battery dremel should be the
cat's ass for out in the woods ! So far most of my cutting has been right
near the house/shop area , but as I burn the dead stuff I'm going to have to
range farther afield . Good excuse to get a battery powered unit !

--
Snag

"SteveB" wrote in message
...
Doing some heavy duty cutting. Need to occasionally field sharpen a
blade. Are the Oregon/Dremel/et al 12 v. sharpeners worth it? Or is it
just as easy to get a good eye, and do it with a few strokes here and
there? I bought a Craftsman a long time ago. It was like putting
together an Erector set with little instructions, and had so many moving
parts, and clamp and unclamp. I just need to zip, zap, and go. I do see
making myself a bar clamp that will hold the entire saw, maybe a little
cradle for the motor to take some of the weight off the bar, but something
to hold the whole thing rock steady during sharpening.

Should I go with a 12v. model, and which one, or should I just get rat
tail files, and read up on it. I have a good idea about the round ones,
and so far had decent luck field sharpening saws in the field. I still
have no idea about the small mill ******* flat file, nor its use, nor its
setup/parameters. Help here?
Time is important, and I don't want to spend a lot of time in the field.
I can do that at home on an off day, but when I hit some dirt or a rock,
I need to get back sawing in a hurry.


Ever think about buying a couple of extra chains ? It may be quicker to
change them than to sharpen the saw in the field.
Then sharpen them at home or dropping them off at a place to have them
sharpened.

As for the flat file, it is normally used after you have used the round file
several times. Maybe a youtube vid will show you how to use it.



---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 1/15/2014 10:59 PM, SteveB wrote:
Doing some heavy duty cutting. Need to occasionally field sharpen
a blade. Are the Oregon/Dremel/et al 12 v. sharpeners worth it? Or is
it just as easy to get a good eye, and do it with a few strokes here and
there? I bought a Craftsman a long time ago. It was like putting
together an Erector set with little instructions, and had so many moving
parts, and clamp and unclamp. I just need to zip, zap, and go. I do
see making myself a bar clamp that will hold the entire saw, maybe a
little cradle for the motor to take some of the weight off the bar, but
something to hold the whole thing rock steady during sharpening.

Should I go with a 12v. model, and which one, or should I just get rat
tail files, and read up on it. I have a good idea about the round ones,
and so far had decent luck field sharpening saws in the field. I still
have no idea about the small mill ******* flat file, nor its use, nor
its setup/parameters. Help here?

Time is important, and I don't want to spend a lot of time in the field.
I can do that at home on an off day, but when I hit some dirt or a
rock, I need to get back sawing in a hurry.

TIA

Steve
Chain saw files are needed, they are the same
diameter, the length of the file. Rat tail files
taper, and won't work for your application. The
one time I used electric sharpener, the stone
wasn't much use, and had to be run full RPM. It
may have just been worn out. The flat file is for
taking down the rakers or depth gages.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 11:22:55 PM UTC-6, Ralph Mowery wrote:

Ever think about buying a couple of extra chains ? It may be quicker to
change them than to sharpen the saw in the field.


I agree...multiple chains...and maybe one of these?
http://www.harborfreight.com/electri...ODM0NiJ9%0D%0A

SteveB wrote:
Doing some heavy duty cutting. Need to occasionally field sharpen a
blade. Are the Oregon/Dremel/et al 12 v. sharpeners worth it? Or is it
just as easy to get a good eye, and do it with a few strokes here and
there? I bought a Craftsman a long time ago. It was like putting
together an Erector set with little instructions, and had so many moving
parts, and clamp and unclamp. I just need to zip, zap, and go. I do
see making myself a bar clamp that will hold the entire saw, maybe a
little cradle for the motor to take some of the weight off the bar, but
something to hold the whole thing rock steady during sharpening.

Should I go with a 12v. model, and which one, or should I just get rat
tail files, and read up on it. I have a good idea about the round ones,
and so far had decent luck field sharpening saws in the field. I still
have no idea about the small mill ******* flat file, nor its use, nor
its setup/parameters. Help here?

Time is important, and I don't want to spend a lot of time in the field.
I can do that at home on an off day, but when I hit some dirt or a
rock, I need to get back sawing in a hurry.

TIA

Steve

Harbor Freight has a chain saw sharpener for sale at $39.99.
You have to remove the chain from the saw to use it, so it's probably
just used at the beginning of a job and then use hand files to touch up
during the job if needed.
Here is the official HF video for using the sharpener.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4MxO...c4-overview-vl
or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/kaga866

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

On 01/15/2014 07:59 PM, SteveB wrote:
Doing some heavy duty cutting. Need to occasionally field sharpen a
blade. Are the Oregon/Dremel/et al 12 v. sharpeners worth it?
[snip]

Using a round file is just about as quick, and one less thing to
break/drag around with you.

Jon

On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 7:59:38 PM UTC-8, SteveB wrote:
Doing some heavy duty cutting. Need to occasionally field sharpen a
blade.

snip

Steve

1. It is a bar, not a blade (sorry but that is a common error)
2. the flat file is used on the depth gauges with a depth guage filing guide.
3. Use chainsaw files, not rat tails.
4. For in the field "Stump Vices" are available. Has a clamp on one end, a spike on the other. Hammer it into a stump or other wood surface and go to it.

I use a filing guide that clamps on the saw bar, holds the chain firmly, no need to pay attention to angles, etc. while filing. Take my less thatn 10 minutes to do a 20" loop giving each tooth 5 strokes.

Primary thing about hand filing - use SHARP files. Be willing to throw one away as soon as it loses the sharpness. File a few chains with a new file and you soon learn when to toss one. I buy them by the dozen (usually last me about a year but then I do 10+ cords a year.

Second thing about filing - do it before the chain "needs" sharpening.

I carry at least 3 chains per saw size (16" 20" 24" 28") and change them out rather than file in the field.

Harry K

On 1/16/2014 11:18 AM, Harry K wrote:
snip

Steve

1. It is a bar, not a blade (sorry but that is a common error)
2. the flat file is used on the depth gauges with a depth guage filing guide.
3. Use chainsaw files, not rat tails.

10 commandments, not 12.
12 disciples, not 10.
Sip your martinis, not gulp them.
Other than that, pretty good.

(If someone doesn't get this, I'll
provide a URL, or go ask a Catholic
priest.)


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
On 1/16/2014 11:18 AM, Harry K wrote:
snip

Steve

1. It is a bar, not a blade (sorry but that is a common error)
2. the flat file is used on the depth gauges with a depth guage filing
guide.
3. Use chainsaw files, not rat tails.

10 commandments, not 12.
12 disciples, not 10.
Sip your martinis, not gulp them.
Other than that, pretty good.

(If someone doesn't get this, I'll
provide a URL, or go ask a Catholic
priest.)


And "We do not refer to The Holy Trinity as Big Daddy , Junior, and The
Spook " ...
--
Snag

On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 20:59:38 -0700, SteveB wrote:

Time is important, and I don't want to spend a lot of time in the field.

Steve,

One of my brothers (RIP) was an Arborist for a national company.

On the job, he had a couple of files, oil and gas to keep his
chainsaws running. He inspected the saws, before he climbed a tree.

A few times I worked with him as a ground man.

Point: simple tools on the job gets the job done.

On 1/16/2014 6:15 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message

10 commandments, not 12.
12 disciples, not 10.
Sip your martinis, not gulp them.
Other than that, pretty good.

(If someone doesn't get this, I'll
provide a URL, or go ask a Catholic
priest.)


And "We do not refer to The Holy Trinity as Big Daddy , Junior, and The
Spook " ...

She's the blessed Vigin Mary, not Mary with the cherry.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/16/2014 6:15 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message

10 commandments, not 12.
12 disciples, not 10.
Sip your martinis, not gulp them.
Other than that, pretty good.

(If someone doesn't get this, I'll
provide a URL, or go ask a Catholic
priest.)


And "We do not refer to The Holy Trinity as Big Daddy , Junior,
and The Spook " ...

She's the blessed Vigin Mary, not Mary with the cherry.

And let's not forget the taffy pull at St. Peter's ...
--
Snag

On 1/17/2014 8:26 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
10 commandments, not 12.
12 disciples, not 10.
Sip your martinis, not gulp them.
Other than that, pretty good.


And "We do not refer to The Holy Trinity as Big Daddy , Junior,
and The Spook " ...

She's the blessed Vigin Mary, not Mary with the cherry.

And let's not forget the taffy pull at St. Peter's ...

That one is memorable. What choir boy doesn't
love a good taffy pull with the priests?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Thursday, January 16, 2014 7:46:57 AM UTC-5, willshak wrote:
SteveB wrote:

Doing some heavy duty cutting. Need to occasionally field sharpen a

blade. Are the Oregon/Dremel/et al 12 v. sharpeners worth it? Or is it

just as easy to get a good eye, and do it with a few strokes here and

there? I bought a Craftsman a long time ago. It was like putting

together an Erector set with little instructions, and had so many moving

parts, and clamp and unclamp. I just need to zip, zap, and go. I do

see making myself a bar clamp that will hold the entire saw, maybe a

little cradle for the motor to take some of the weight off the bar, but

something to hold the whole thing rock steady during sharpening.



Should I go with a 12v. model, and which one, or should I just get rat

tail files, and read up on it. I have a good idea about the round ones,

and so far had decent luck field sharpening saws in the field. I still

have no idea about the small mill ******* flat file, nor its use, nor

its setup/parameters. Help here?



Time is important, and I don't want to spend a lot of time in the field.

I can do that at home on an off day, but when I hit some dirt or a

rock, I need to get back sawing in a hurry.



TIA



Steve



Harbor Freight has a chain saw sharpener for sale at $39.99.

You have to remove the chain from the saw to use it, so it's probably

just used at the beginning of a job and then use hand files to touch up

during the job if needed.

Here is the official HF video for using the sharpener.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4MxO...c4-overview-vl

or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/kaga866



--

Bill

In Hamptonburgh, NY

In the original Orange County. Est. 1683

To email, remove the double zeros after @

I got one of those sharpeners, it does a good job. I have two chains so that I can replace them in the field if one gets dull. If that happens, I sharpen the dull one as soon as I get home to be ready for the next outing.

Paul

Pavel314 wrote:
On Thursday, January 16, 2014 7:46:57 AM UTC-5, willshak wrote:
SteveB wrote:

Doing some heavy duty cutting. Need to occasionally field sharpen a

blade. Are the Oregon/Dremel/et al 12 v. sharpeners worth it? Or is it

just as easy to get a good eye, and do it with a few strokes here and

there? I bought a Craftsman a long time ago. It was like putting

together an Erector set with little instructions, and had so many moving

parts, and clamp and unclamp. I just need to zip, zap, and go. I do

see making myself a bar clamp that will hold the entire saw, maybe a

little cradle for the motor to take some of the weight off the bar, but

something to hold the whole thing rock steady during sharpening.



Should I go with a 12v. model, and which one, or should I just get rat

tail files, and read up on it. I have a good idea about the round ones,

and so far had decent luck field sharpening saws in the field. I still

have no idea about the small mill ******* flat file, nor its use, nor

its setup/parameters. Help here?



Time is important, and I don't want to spend a lot of time in the field.

I can do that at home on an off day, but when I hit some dirt or a

rock, I need to get back sawing in a hurry.



TIA



Steve



Harbor Freight has a chain saw sharpener for sale at $39.99.

You have to remove the chain from the saw to use it, so it's probably

just used at the beginning of a job and then use hand files to touch up

during the job if needed.

Here is the official HF video for using the sharpener.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4MxO...c4-overview-vl

or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/kaga866



--

Bill

In Hamptonburgh, NY

In the original Orange County. Est. 1683

To email, remove the double zeros after @

I got one of those sharpeners, it does a good job. I have two chains so
that I can replace them in the field if one gets dull. If that happens, I
sharpen the dull one as soon as I get home to be ready for the next outing.

Paul

I bought my brother one. I give my chains to my brother. I get them back
after a while. They cut real good.

Greg

willshak wrote:
SteveB wrote:
Doing some heavy duty cutting. Need to occasionally field
sharpen a blade. Are the Oregon/Dremel/et al 12 v. sharpeners worth
it? Or is it just as easy to get a good eye, and do it with a few
strokes here and there? I bought a Craftsman a long time ago. It
was like putting together an Erector set with little instructions,
and had so many moving parts, and clamp and unclamp. I just need to
zip, zap, and go. I do see making myself a bar clamp that will hold
the entire saw, maybe a little cradle for the motor to take some of
the weight off the bar, but something to hold the whole thing rock
steady during sharpening. Should I go with a 12v. model, and which one, or
should I just get
rat tail files, and read up on it. I have a good idea about the
round ones, and so far had decent luck field sharpening saws in the
field. I still have no idea about the small mill ******* flat file,
nor its use, nor its setup/parameters. Help here?

Time is important, and I don't want to spend a lot of time in the
field. I can do that at home on an off day, but when I hit some
dirt or a rock, I need to get back sawing in a hurry.

TIA

Steve

Harbor Freight has a chain saw sharpener for sale at $39.99.
You have to remove the chain from the saw to use it, so it's probably
just used at the beginning of a job and then use hand files to touch
up during the job if needed.
Here is the official HF video for using the sharpener.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4MxO...c4-overview-vl
or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/kaga866

I looked at those in the store. My immediate impression was " that thing is
going to eat away a chain in no time. You just don't really have to remove much
metal to sharpen a chain.

And you just don't really have to remove much metal using a sharpener either. Only a ham handed operator over grinds a chain.

Harry K

On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 20:59:38 -0700, SteveB wrote:

Doing some heavy duty cutting. Need to occasionally field sharpen a
blade. Are the Oregon/Dremel/et al 12 v. sharpeners worth it? Or is it
just as easy to get a good eye, and do it with a few strokes here and
there? I bought a Craftsman a long time ago. It was like putting
together an Erector set with little instructions, and had so many moving
parts, and clamp and unclamp. I just need to zip, zap, and go. I do
see making myself a bar clamp that will hold the entire saw, maybe a
little cradle for the motor to take some of the weight off the bar, but
something to hold the whole thing rock steady during sharpening.

Should I go with a 12v. model, and which one, or should I just get rat
tail files, and read up on it. I have a good idea about the round ones,
and so far had decent luck field sharpening saws in the field. I still
have no idea about the small mill ******* flat file, nor its use, nor
its setup/parameters. Help here?

Time is important, and I don't want to spend a lot of time in the field.
I can do that at home on an off day, but when I hit some dirt or a
rock, I need to get back sawing in a hurry.

TIA

Steve

I normally just do it by eye, using the proper sized file, in the field.
I also always have a spare blade on hand, and it's usually easier to
just change the blade. But when it comes to doing a proper sharpening, I
take it to a guy in town that sharpens saw blades. He uses a machine
and charges by the number of teeth. My 20 inch blade costs around
$6.50. It takes me at least an hour, by hand, so I'd rather pay him,
and it's a better job. Years ago, I bought some gadget where a file
sits in a cradle, I never got that thing to work right, and it still
took me an hour.

On Thursday, January 16, 2014 6:46:57 AM UTC-6, willshak wrote:


Harbor Freight has a chain saw sharpener for sale at $39.99.

You have to remove the chain from the saw to use it, so it's probably

just used at the beginning of a job and then use hand files to touch up

during the job if needed.

Here is the official HF video for using the sharpener.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4MxO...c4-overview-vl

or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/kaga866



It's now $30 W/coupon! http://www.harborfreight.com/

On Saturday, January 18, 2014 5:02:05 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 20:59:38 -0700, SteveB wrote:



Doing some heavy duty cutting. Need to occasionally field sharpen a

blade. Are the Oregon/Dremel/et al 12 v. sharpeners worth it? Or is it

just as easy to get a good eye, and do it with a few strokes here and

there? I bought a Craftsman a long time ago. It was like putting

together an Erector set with little instructions, and had so many moving

parts, and clamp and unclamp. I just need to zip, zap, and go. I do

see making myself a bar clamp that will hold the entire saw, maybe a

little cradle for the motor to take some of the weight off the bar, but

something to hold the whole thing rock steady during sharpening.



Should I go with a 12v. model, and which one, or should I just get rat

tail files, and read up on it. I have a good idea about the round ones,

and so far had decent luck field sharpening saws in the field. I still

have no idea about the small mill ******* flat file, nor its use, nor

its setup/parameters. Help here?



Time is important, and I don't want to spend a lot of time in the field.

I can do that at home on an off day, but when I hit some dirt or a

rock, I need to get back sawing in a hurry.



TIA



Steve



I normally just do it by eye, using the proper sized file, in the field.

I also always have a spare blade on hand, and it's usually easier to

just change the blade. But when it comes to doing a proper sharpening, I

take it to a guy in town that sharpens saw blades. He uses a machine

and charges by the number of teeth. My 20 inch blade costs around

$6.50. It takes me at least an hour, by hand, so I'd rather pay him,

and it's a better job. Years ago, I bought some gadget where a file

sits in a cradle, I never got that thing to work right, and it still

took me an hour.

Probably why it used to take me a long time aslo. Dull file. A sharp file will almost "whistly" as you stroke the tooth with it and should take no more than 5 strokes per tooth. No 20" chain should take an hour, it takes my no more than 10minutes and that includes clamping up the saw and attaching the fileing guide. One the guide it on it is nothing but "flip guide up, advance tooth, 5 quick strokes" and repeat. Don't even have to pay any attention to what your are doing as all the angles are already set and don't change.

I have had chains ruined by taking them to a shop where they harden the teeth to "unfilable" state by over grinding.
Harry K

On Saturday, January 18, 2014 5:10:26 AM UTC-8, Bob_Villa wrote:
On Thursday, January 16, 2014 6:46:57 AM UTC-6, willshak wrote:
Harbor Freight has a chain saw sharpener for sale at $39.99.
You have to remove the chain from the saw to use it, so it's probably
just used at the beginning of a job and then use hand files to touch up
during the job if needed.

Here is the official HF video for using the sharpener.

or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/kaga866

It's now $30 W/coupon! http://www.harborfreight.com/

I have one. It does a fair job but takes too long. I can do a better job and way faster with a file guide that sets all the angles.

The major clue to hand filing is SHARP! files and be willing to throw one away when it quits cutting well.

Harry K

On 1/16/2014 8:36 PM, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 20:59:38 -0700, SteveB wrote:

Time is important, and I don't want to spend a lot of time in the field.

Steve,

One of my brothers (RIP) was an Arborist for a national company.

On the job, he had a couple of files, oil and gas to keep his
chainsaws running. He inspected the saws, before he climbed a tree.

A few times I worked with him as a ground man.

Point: simple tools on the job gets the job done.



I have been digging out old sharpeners, etc. With the exception of a
stump vise, I think that so far, I have had very good luck in a short
time with just a file.

Stefve

On 1/16/2014 8:36 PM, Oren wrote:


One of my brothers (RIP) was an Arborist for a national company.

On the job, he had a couple of files, oil and gas to keep his
chainsaws running. He inspected the saws, before he climbed a tree.

A few times I worked with him as a ground man.

Point: simple tools on the job gets the job done.

On our last job, a 80' high cottonwood, I just used the round file. I
did see that I do need to make a mount for a bar clamp (also called a
stump clamp when pounded into a log) to hold my saw while sharpening.
With those little indicators, and steady stroking, about six strokes per
tooth comes out with remarkable sharpness. Haven't gotten to the other
one that uses the flat file yet, and think I may buy one of those that
has the guide on it. Or not. We did some heavy work last Saturday,
enough to put me in bed until this morning. Buddy's 460 Husky came in,
so we are dying to try it on the last 80 footer of this job. 24" bar.
Think I'll go 455 w/20".

Steve

On 1/17/2014 8:34 AM, Pavel314 wrote:

Harbor Freight has a chain saw sharpener for sale at $39.99.

You have to remove the chain from the saw to use it, so it's probably

just used at the beginning of a job and then use hand files to touch up

during the job if needed.

Here is the official HF video for using the sharpener.


Bill

After doing about 16 hours of work, I have decided to make and build a
bar clamp. One for my siderail on the trailer, and one to hammer into a
stump or log to hold saw for hand filing. I have actually gotten to
where I can get a decent sharp edge with just a round file.

Steve

On 1/17/2014 10:22 PM, Bob F wrote:



I looked at those in the store. My immediate impression was " that thing is
going to eat away a chain in no time. You just don't really have to remove much
metal to sharpen a chain.

Funny. I noticed the same thing after wearing out one of those stones.
The stones don't last too long, either, once you get a ragged edge
anywhere on there. And six smooth rubs of a file will take of far less
metal than one of the electrics.

Steve

On 1/18/2014 6:02 AM, wrote:

I
take it to a guy in town that sharpens saw blades. He uses a machine
and charges by the number of teeth. My 20 inch blade costs around
$6.50. It takes me at least an hour, by hand, so I'd rather pay him,
and it's a better job. Years ago, I bought some gadget where a file
sits in a cradle, I never got that thing to work right, and it still
took me an hour.

Watched the guy at the local ACE the other day. I was amazed at two
things. The amount of metal taken off, and that metal needed to be
taken off at EVERY tooth.

Steve

On 1/18/2014 11:08 AM, Harry K wrote:

I have one. It does a fair job but takes too long. I can do a better job

and way faster with a file guide that sets all the angles.

The major clue to hand filing is SHARP! files and be willing to

throw one away when it quits cutting well.

Harry K

Throw away file? Saw? Both?

Steve

On Friday, January 31, 2014 3:08:01 PM UTC-8, SteveB wrote:
On 1/18/2014 6:02 AM, wrote:

I

take it to a guy in town that sharpens saw blades. He uses a machine
and charges by the number of teeth. My 20 inch blade costs around
$6.50. It takes me at least an hour, by hand, so I'd rather pay him,
and it's a better job. Years ago, I bought some gadget where a file
sits in a cradle, I never got that thing to work right, and it still
took me an hour.

I use one of those and it only takes me less than 10 minutes per 20" loop and that includes clamping the saw in a vice and mounting the file guide. Nice part about it is once set you don't even have to look at the file to wind up with the exact angles on every tooth.

Watched the guy at the local ACE the other day. I was amazed at two
things. The amount of metal taken off, and that metal needed to be
taken off at EVERY tooth.

Steve

Of course it needs to be taken off every tooth. If they aren't all approximately the same length you soon wind up trying tocut curves. I quit taking mine to ACE as they would not grind too much but would do too fast, overheat the teeth which renders it impossible to file anymore. Teeth get so hard it's like trying to file glass.

Harry K

On Friday, January 31, 2014 3:09:49 PM UTC-8, SteveB wrote:
On 1/18/2014 11:08 AM, Harry K wrote:
I have one. It does a fair job but takes too long. I can do a better job
and way faster with a file guide that sets all the angles.

The major clue to hand filing is SHARP! files and be willing to
throw one away when it quits cutting well.
Harry K

Throw away file? Saw? Both?

Steve

What [part of "SHARP files" did you not get?

Harry K