On May 3, 9:17*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Fri, 03 May 2013 14:17:00 -0700, Oren wrote:
Try again.

UPDATE (without IMG tags):

Yesterday, in the hour left between arriving home and mosquito darkness
I tried to cut the pipes using my new pipe-cutting tool, but it broke
on the very first attempt:
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843166.jpg

Probably because the old pipe has been sitting outside
for many years and has gotten hard, while new PVC is
softer. I've never used a knife type cutter on 2" or larger
pipe, so don't know how hard it really is. I've always used
a hacksaw for those sizes. But your experience
is a good lesson for all.





So I hacksawed the outlet of the filter pump at the elbow:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843168.jpg

And, I hacksawed the inlet of the filter pump at the midway point:
*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843170.jpg

Removing the wires from the wiring conduit elbow was problematic:
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843171.jpg

Crazily twisted and cracked 10AWG wires are always the result:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843173.jpg

Can't you push/pull out those wires through the elbow one
at a time? If necessary, you could even cut off the terminals
then crimp new ones on later as
long as you have 3/8" or so of extra wire. Looks to me like
you should be able to get those wires out without destroying
them. When you do the re-wiring, leave some extra free wire.

Also, can't tell from the pic, but is it possible that a better
way to wire it would be to bring the wires straight into the
motor behind or on the sides of that terminal block, then
make a u-turn and come back? If you could do that, then
you could have several inches of wire to work with, can straighten
it out, have it go straight back into the conduit, instead of making
that sharp immediate turn to the terminals it now has.




By nightfall, I finally had the room to repair the leaks and relocate
both the filter pump and the cleaner pump and figure out where to put
the pipes so that I can more easily maintain the equipment yet not to
introduce too many additional bends (some day I'll convert the whole
thing to curves):
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843176.jpg

Surprise!

When I sliced the pipe at the Jandy valve of the filter pump a bit
closer, I realize there was thick (schedule 200?) gray pipe:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843178.jpg

I don't know what that is. It looks like a pipe over a bushing
to me, not just one piece of pipe. If it's some kind of thicker
doubled pipe, why would it be only thick right at the valve, and
not where you cut it further back?





I called the pool guys who said that their service men use that
gray schedule 200 because it's thicker and stronger than PVC schedule
40.

Does sched 200 even mate with the fittings you have, ie Jandy
valve? Maybe that's what the doubled up looking thing is, some
adapter to go from one to the other?



Do you know if there is any truth to that statement which implies I
shouldn't use white PVC schedule 40 at the pumps because it heats up
and is more brittle than the gray thicker schedule 200???

Sched 40 is all that I've seen used here in NJ. And apparently
it works, because I haven't heard any horror stories. Are those
pool guys from the company that installed it? If so, we know
they don't know what they're doing....





Anyway, this thick gray schedule 200 pipe should probably be bored out;
but I don't have the boring tool:
*http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843179.jpg

I called up Jandy (now Zodiac) at 800-822-7933x1x5, and spoke to their
technical support, and pointed them to this thread. They said they don't
sell the boring tool, and, that the 2.5" coupling should work.

Back at the now-removed pump, I was worried the filter pump inlet
threaded coupling would be glued in from all the repairs - but it spun
out easily with an oil filter wrench, of all things:http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843181.jpg

Here you can see all the caulk and pipe dope in the world was really
useless because none of it penetrated to the threads themselves:http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843182.jpg

However, it can be seen that there certainly was teflon tape used in the
original fittings:http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843184.jpg

And, now I'm ready to put it all back together in a leak-free yet
maintenance friendly way:http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843185.jpg

I hope ... (I've never done this before) ...

You seem to be doing fine. Carry on....

On Sat, 4 May 2013 01:17:03 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:


So I hacksawed the outlet of the filter pump at the elbow:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843168.jpg

And, I hacksawed the inlet of the filter pump at the midway point:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843170.jpg

Next time cut on the left side, next to the edge of the fitting. No
need to cut there (I see you did cut the partial piece off later.

What is the gadget in front of the saw - the round thing?

When I sliced the pipe at the Jandy valve of the filter pump a bit
closer, I realize there was thick (schedule 200?) gray pipe:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843178.jpg

I recall you had two fittings very close together. You were talking
about a gap or gash or something. I mentioned there may be a sleeve
(?) between the two. Nickel says it is Sch 200?


Here you can see all the caulk and pipe dope in the world was really
useless because none of it penetrated to the threads themselves:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843182.jpg


.... done by the guy that runs with dark horses - LOL

However, it can be seen that there certainly was teflon tape used in the
original fittings:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843184.jpg


Not enough imo. While you have the strainer clean inspect around the
area for small cracks in the housing.

And, now I'm ready to put it all back together in a leak-free yet
maintenance friendly way:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843185.jpg


Before you put the volute back together: inspect the O-ring, impeller,
bushing, seal etc.

If the seal is rusted behind the impeller - replace it now. Chlorine
causes it to rust. The pump shaft will then start to leak.

If all looks swell, put it back together,

I hope ... (I've never done this before) ...

You're on a roll.

Oh. They do make 22.5 & 45 Degree 2" PVC fittings for tight spots.

On Sat, 4 May 2013 06:22:21 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

I tried to cut the pipes using my new pipe-cutting tool, but it broke
on the very first attempt:

http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12843166/img/12843166.jpg

Probably because the old pipe has been sitting outside
for many years and has gotten hard, while new PVC is
softer. I've never used a knife type cutter on 2" or larger
pipe, so don't know how hard it really is. I've always used
a hacksaw for those sizes. But your experience
is a good lesson for all.


+1

I have a small set for 3/4 PVC pipe. Not the best thing in the world.
They often will not cut the pipe square at 90 degree. The blades
torque and bind - cut sideways a bit. It can be worked around, but
still. They work okay on soft PEX.

On May 4, 12:24*pm, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 4 May 2013 06:22:21 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
I tried to cut the pipes using my new pipe-cutting tool, but it broke
on the very first attempt:

http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12843166/img/12843166.jpg

Probably because the old pipe has been sitting outside
for many years and has gotten hard, while new PVC is
softer. *I've never used a knife type cutter on 2" or larger
pipe, so don't know how hard it really is. *I've always used
a hacksaw for those sizes. * *But your experience
is a good lesson for all.

+1

I have *a small set for 3/4 PVC pipe. Not the best thing in the world.
They often will not cut the pipe square at 90 degree. The blades
torque and bind - cut sideways a bit. It can be worked around, but
still. They work okay on soft *PEX.

They work well for me on PVC up to 1 1/2". Always cuts close
to square. Certainly a lot squarer than you can do with a saw.

On Sat, 4 May 2013 01:17:03 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843176.jpg

What is THAT 1/2" galv. conduit doing in there? (right side, diagonal)

It is not connected to anything - one screw in the wall flat end.
Empty on the ground.

Get rid of that mess - unless it has a REAL reason to be there.

On Sat, 04 May 2013 12:29:36 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 4 May 2013 01:17:03 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843176.jpg

What is THAT 1/2" galv. conduit doing in there? (right side, diagonal)

It is not connected to anything - one screw in the wall flat end.
Empty on the ground.

Get rid of that mess - unless it has a REAL reason to be there.

Danny, post the picture of where the three conduits are mounted on the
outside wall. I saw it but can't find the link.

The block wall, where the flex conduit enters the wall. I have issues
wid-dat (left side). What is the center vertical conduit and why the
screw in a 1/2" galv. conduit going to nowhere on the ground?

....just sayin'

On Sat, 04 May 2013 09:24:28 -0700, Oren wrote:

I tried to cut the pipes using my new pipe-cutting tool,
but it broke on the very first attempt:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843166.jpg

I have a small set for 3/4 PVC pipe. Not the best thing in the world.
They often will not cut the pipe square at 90 degree.

Well, I'll find out 'cuz I bought a new 2" pipe cutter yesterday!

I realized the new pipe cutter had a latch at the bottom; so,
I think the old one was "returned" at one point, by someone else.

Even so, I couldn't find any of the new ones that didn't have that
black non-powdery dye-like stuff at the bottom of the white bag though ...
(see photo for example):

http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12859851.jpg

On Sat, 04 May 2013 09:24:28 -0700, Oren wrote:

I tried to cut the pipes using my new pipe-cutting tool,
but it broke on the very first attempt:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843166.jpg

I have a small set for 3/4 PVC pipe. Not the best thing in the world.
They often will not cut the pipe square at 90 degree.

Well, I'll find out 'cuz I bought a new 2" pipe cutter yesterday!

I realized the new pipe cutter had a latch at the bottom; so,
I think the old one was "returned" at one point, by someone else.

Even so, I couldn't find any of the new ones that didn't have that
black non-powdery dye-like stuff at the bottom of the white bag though ...
(see photo for example):

http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12859851.jpg

On Sat, 04 May 2013 09:53:04 -0700, wrote:

They work well for me on PVC up to 1 1/2". Always cuts close
to square. Certainly a lot squarer than you can do with a saw.

You can see the cut ends from these off the pump outlets:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12859857.jpg

One dilemma was that the gray threaded circled schedule 80
nipple "adapter" didn't seem to exist at two Home Depots that
I had visited yesterday.

They said it must be some kind of specialty pool fitting.

On Sat, 04 May 2013 12:29:36 -0700, Oren wrote:

What is THAT 1/2" galv. conduit doing in there? (right side, diagonal)
It is not connected to anything - one screw in the wall flat end.
Empty on the ground.
Get rid of that mess - unless it has a REAL reason to be there.

You're very observant! You should be a criminal prosecutor!

I had never mentioned that thin steel tubing, and, in fact,
since it was rusted on the end where it was bolted to the
concrete originally, I lifted it up and moved it off to
the side, and had not bothered to mention it.

http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12860216.jpg

It's a cheap support for the control panel backboard.
The problem is that the bottom had rusted through, so I'll be
replacing it, once I'm all done.

Kudos to you for noticing it was out of place though.

On Sat, 04 May 2013 12:29:36 -0700, Oren wrote:

What is THAT 1/2" galv. conduit doing in there? (right side, diagonal)

Here's that conduit in situ, which, of course, I need to replace
with something better than it was (because it rusted through):

http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12860323.jpg

On Sat, 04 May 2013 13:02:04 -0700, Oren wrote:

Danny, post the picture of where the three conduits are mounted on the
outside wall. I saw it but can't find the link.
The block wall, where the flex conduit enters the wall.

The 2" conduits don't come out from the block wall.
The come up from the ground, all in a single tight line.
Probably done with some fancy professional pipe-fitting software!

Here's an ugly shot of 'most' of the pipes (it missed the solar pipes):
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12860378.jpg

From left to right:
1. Spa jets in
2. Spa jets out
3. Filter in (spa)
4. Filter in (pool)
5. Cleaner in (pool skimmer 1)
6. Cleaner out (pool floor jets)
7. Cleaner in (pool skimmer 2)
8. Filter out 1 (spa)
9. Filter out 2 (pool)
10. Filter out 3 (permanent popup cleaner sprays near the deep end)
11. Unused vacuum cleaner pipe (no pump attached but goes to middle of pool)
12. Solar in
13. Solar out

Since these are all basic tasks, I would think most (self-cleaning) pools
would have similar plumbing - but I must admit - this is the only pool I
know; but most people who looked at it told me the wrong thing (e.g., about
how the skimmers worked, which, it turns out, are wholly unfiltered!).

On Sun, 5 May 2013 20:48:15 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Sat, 04 May 2013 12:29:36 -0700, Oren wrote:

What is THAT 1/2" galv. conduit doing in there? (right side, diagonal)
It is not connected to anything - one screw in the wall flat end.
Empty on the ground.
Get rid of that mess - unless it has a REAL reason to be there.

You're very observant! You should be a criminal prosecutor!

I had never mentioned that thin steel tubing, and, in fact,
since it was rusted on the end where it was bolted to the
concrete originally, I lifted it up and moved it off to
the side, and had not bothered to mention it.

http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12860216.jpg

It's a cheap support for the control panel backboard.
The problem is that the bottom had rusted through, so I'll be
replacing it, once I'm all done.

Kudos to you for noticing it was out of place though.

Danny, I was a Special Investigative Supervisor one time in my career.
I know a crime scene when I see one. You have one, there :-\

Retired but still have the knack for observation. People are creatures
of habit. Break the rules now and then; run with the dark horses.

On Sat, 04 May 2013 09:09:32 -0700, Oren wrote:

What is the gadget in front of the saw - the round thing?

Turns out that is a super duper deluxe thingey!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843573.jpg

I'm told it's supposed to kill bacteria, if you bother
with the $100 super duper fancy special cartridge:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843562.jpg

The problem is that it apparently really isn't needed but
it clutters up the outflow from the pool filter:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843580.jpg

In fact, it even has an ORANGE restrictor, hindering flow:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843578.jpg

So, I just recently dug out that restrictor, and, I'm seriously
contemplating removing the whole thingey, whatever it does:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...0/12843582.jpg

On Sun, 5 May 2013 21:17:16 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:


Danny, post the picture of where the three conduits are mounted on the
outside wall. I saw it but can't find the link.
The block wall, where the flex conduit enters the wall.

The 2" conduits don't come out from the block wall.
The come up from the ground, all in a single tight line.
Probably done with some fancy professional pipe-fitting software!

Here's an ugly shot of 'most' of the pipes (it missed the solar pipes):
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12860378.jpg


Because I was askin' about three electrical conduits and not water
pipes. The one that has the conduit to nowhere. The flex pipe not done
correctly - IMO. Three pieces side-by-side on the outside wall.

That photo is not it.

On Sun, 5 May 2013 20:59:55 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Sat, 04 May 2013 12:29:36 -0700, Oren wrote:

What is THAT 1/2" galv. conduit doing in there? (right side, diagonal)

Here's that conduit in situ, which, of course, I need to replace
with something better than it was (because it rusted through):

http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12860323.jpg

Hey Danny! How about fixing the wall mount, so that pipe crap isn't
needed for a brace, if it ever was, to hold it up?

Take that junk out.

On Sun, 05 May 2013 14:34:24 -0700, Oren wrote:

Because I was askin' about three electrical conduits and not water
pipes. The one that has the conduit to nowhere. The flex pipe not done
correctly - IMO. Three pieces side-by-side on the outside wall.

I'm still confused, because I don't know of any electrical flex
conduit going nowhere...

Do you mean this electrical panel and the pool controller box?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12860977.jpg

On Sun, 5 May 2013 23:47:41 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Sun, 05 May 2013 14:34:24 -0700, Oren wrote:

Because I was askin' about three electrical conduits and not water
pipes. The one that has the conduit to nowhere. The flex pipe not done
correctly - IMO. Three pieces side-by-side on the outside wall.

I'm still confused, because I don't know of any electrical flex
conduit going nowhere...

Do you mean this electrical panel and the pool controller box?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12860977.jpg

No! I mean on the upper wall where three electrical conduits attach.
The same place as that silly 1/2 gav. pipe is flattened and then
screwed into the silly wall mess.

Those motor cords have to travel up the wall. Show me.

On Sat, 04 May 2013 09:09:32 -0700, Oren wrote:

I recall you had two fittings very close together. You were talking
about a gap or gash or something. I mentioned there may be a sleeve
(?) between the two. Nickel says it is Sch 200?

Yeah, they had a LOT of pipes inside of pipes!

And, they seemed to use a LOT of that thick gray stuff.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12861317.jpg

For example, look here and you see what appears to be a
schedule 200 nipple epoxied onto the end of the pipe, instead
of a standard schedule 40 coupling:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12861318.jpg

I'm going to have to re-use that because Home Depot didn't have
any equivalent end fittings.

On Sun, 05 May 2013 14:43:07 -0700, Oren wrote:

Hey Danny! How about fixing the wall mount, so that pipe crap isn't
needed for a brace, if it ever was, to hold it up?

I'm already suffering from scope creep, doing everything
"but" the plumbing, which I'm having problems tackling because
I'm afraid I'll screw it up - so I'm trying to plan out every step.

But, it's driving me crazy ... I'd better just do it and get it over
with as all this worrying about the plumbing is making me work on
other stuff instead. (Do you ever do that?)

Anyway, here's my final plan, before actually doing it:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12861328.jpg

RATIONALE:
- I couldnt' get a straight shot to both pumps without going OVER
the baskets, which drove me crazy in the original setup - so I refuse
to do that (it makes opening the baskets problematic).

- I did get a straight shot for the filter pump; but it's very close
to the filter so the motor may get dripped on if the filter weaps.

- I have a couple of elbows in the cleaner pump, and neither the
inlet or outlet is a straight shot, unfortunately.

- There are couplings all over the place; so I can take stuff apart.

- I'm replacing all the fittings that I could find replacements for
at Home Depot - but some I just couldn't find - so I'm re-using them.

- For now, I'm going to leave the mineral exchange thingey in place, as
I just don't want to rip up too much (that's always my problem --- scope
creep!).

On May 6, 12:43*am, Danny D wrote:
On Sun, 05 May 2013 14:43:07 -0700, Oren wrote:
Hey Danny! How about fixing the wall mount, so that pipe crap isn't
needed for a brace, if it ever was, *to hold it up?

I'm already suffering from scope creep, doing everything
"but" the plumbing, which I'm having problems tackling because
I'm afraid I'll screw it up - so I'm trying to plan out every step.

But, it's driving me crazy ... I'd better just do it and get it over
with as all this worrying about the plumbing is making me work on
other stuff instead. (Do you ever do that?)

Anyway, here's my final plan, before actually doing it:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12861328.jpg

RATIONALE:
- I couldnt' get a straight shot to both pumps without going OVER
the baskets, which drove me crazy in the original setup - so I refuse
to do that (it makes opening the baskets problematic).

- I did get a straight shot for the filter pump; but it's very close
to the filter so the motor may get dripped on if the filter weaps.

- I have a couple of elbows in the cleaner pump, and neither the
inlet or outlet is a straight shot, unfortunately.

- There are couplings all over the place; so I can take stuff apart.

- I'm replacing all the fittings that I could find replacements for
at Home Depot - but some I just couldn't find - so I'm re-using them.

- For now, I'm going to leave the mineral exchange thingey in place, as
I just don't want to rip up too much (that's always my problem --- scope
creep!).

The only issue I see is that on the one pump you appear to be
adding one union to the one that is already there. And you're doing
that by taking half of a new union and mating it with half of one
of the old unions. IMO, that *might* work or it might leak all over
the place. I'm not sure that all unions are designed exactly the
same so that they can mate with half of any other union. Also, the
seal in the old one is how old now? I would
get rid of the existing one and replace it, winding up with just one.
I guess if you try it your way and it leaks, you could go back and
do it the other way later.

Also, I'd move the union on the pump on the left over to the
pipe section closer to the pump so the pump comes out with less
piping on it.

On Mon, 6 May 2013 04:43:39 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

Anyway, here's my final plan, before actually doing it:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12861328.jpg

Follow the direction of the blue arrow, back to the wall - behind the
Jandy valve.

There is:

- flex conduit elbow entering the wall

-the middle conduit is empty

- the brace just hanging on the wall.

Is that flex conduit HOT and connected? It seems there should be
waterproof box on the wall and not just an elbow passing through.

On Mon, 6 May 2013 04:43:39 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

- I have a couple of elbows in the cleaner pump, and neither the
inlet or outlet is a straight shot, unfortunately.

22.5 & 45 degree elbows can be used to make the off-set / transitions.

On Mon, 06 May 2013 06:12:20 -0700, wrote:

The only issue I see is that on the one pump you appear to be adding one
union to the one that is already there. And you're doing that by taking
half of a new union and mating it with half of one of the old unions.

Again, I'm impressed with your visual acumen.

That's exactly what I was doing. I didn't want to cut off the old union
(which is 1 year old) but I also didn't like it where it is (I wanted
it closer to the pump).

Also, I just realized I probably want the unions on a straight shot
into the pump, so that I might more easily tighten them if they leak
again, as they did in the past.

So I will see if I can accommodate all your good suggestions.

On Mon, 6 May 2013 18:21:23 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Mon, 06 May 2013 06:12:20 -0700, wrote:

The only issue I see is that on the one pump you appear to be adding one
union to the one that is already there. And you're doing that by taking
half of a new union and mating it with half of one of the old unions.

Again, I'm impressed with your visual acumen.

That's exactly what I was doing. I didn't want to cut off the old union
(which is 1 year old) but I also didn't like it where it is (I wanted
it closer to the pump).

Also, I just realized I probably want the unions on a straight shot
into the pump, so that I might more easily tighten them if they leak
again, as they did in the past.

So I will see if I can accommodate all your good suggestions.

Danny. You do know you have to clean the paint from the older pipes,
clean any burrs, clean with a PVC cleaner and perhaps use some Emory
cloth to rough it up?

Without that care, the fittings will leak... no matter how you connect
them...

The PVC cleaner is next to the PVC cement - isle 5.

On Mon, 06 May 2013 11:50:06 -0700, Oren wrote:

clean the paint from the older pipes

Yes. I will sandpaper the black to white.

The PVC cleaner is next to the PVC cement

Hmmm... I have the purple primer. Is that what you mean?
(I don't know of any other PVC cleaner ... )

On Mon, 6 May 2013 19:11:48 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Mon, 06 May 2013 11:50:06 -0700, Oren wrote:

clean the paint from the older pipes

Yes. I will sandpaper the black to white.

The PVC cleaner is next to the PVC cement

Hmmm... I have the purple primer. Is that what you mean?
(I don't know of any other PVC cleaner ... )

Yes the primer. (cleans PVC)

Did you get the thread sealer, like Tru Blu or other type?

What about bonding wire for the motors?

Dry fit the pipes and put this thing together, sheez :-\

On Mon, 06 May 2013 13:08:08 -0700, Oren wrote:

Did you get the thread sealer, like Tru Blu or other type?

Long story. For others reading this, see this thread:
* Question just about the order of pipe dope sealant and teflon tape
http://tinyurl.com/cuterno

Dry fit the pipes and put this thing together, sheez :-\

Done!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918818.jpg

This is my first plumbing-rework job, which had simultaneous criteria.

Results:
0. I was able to save all the Jandy valves (which also saved draining the
pool!).
1. I eliminated three 90° elbows & added back one 90° & one 45° elbow for
a net halving of the number of elbows.
2. I also eliminated a pipe running inconveniently directly over the pump
basket cover (which had made it hard to remove the cover).
3. And the unions enable the pumps to be removed easily, and even swapped
in an emergency (by carefully matching the inlet pipes and unions by
length & location).
4. Of course, I hope that I eliminated the leak at the two pump inlets
(but, now if they leak, they'll be easier to repair!).
5. And, the electrical junction box I'm going to add will make removal of
the motors vastly easier (especially with the straight-through waterproof
conduit ends).

The trick to saving the Jandy valves (and not draining the entire pool),
was to cut off the pipe *at* the Jandy valves:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843179.jpg

And then to put an oversized 2.5-inch fitting over the outside of those
already used Jandy valves:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918729.jpg

Inside that oversized fitting, I put a 2-inch reducer bushing:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918730.jpg

And, attached to that reducer bushing, I added a 2-inch union:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918783.jpg

In addition, every schedule 40 and schedule 80 fitting was tightened only
hand tight plus two turns to decrease strain on the female fittings.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918709.jpg

Note: It turns out that schedule 80 fittings don't increase strength but
I had to leave some of those sch 80 nipples in place due to their custom
nature.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12901000.jpg

Also, since Teflon tape is deprecated in schedule 40 PVC plumbing, I
removed all instances of Teflon tape, using only non-hardening PVC
sealants.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12861317.jpg

One problem I ran into was that the filter itself seems to have
proprietary Sta-Rite fittings on it, which weren't available at Home
Depot, so, I had to re-use the filter fittings, cutting off as much of
the old pipe as I dared:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918806.jpg

In the end, I hope not only is the leak repaired, and the plumbing
has fewer restrictions, but also that it will be *much easier* to
maintain the plumbing what with the unions and extra space afforded
by the re-piping.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918800.jpg

On Sun, 05 May 2013 20:25:54 +0000, Danny D wrote:

Well, I'll find out 'cuz I bought a new 2" pipe cutter yesterday!

That pipe cutter turned out to be next to useless, btw...

Lesson learned ...

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 19:23:54 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

UPDATE:

The wiring was revised today, after taking in most of the input from the
a.h.r team.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057637.jpg

All the wire ends were cleaned up, with new spade connectors, and
waterproof wire nuts with di-electric grease on all connections:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057765.jpg

The motor sides were cleaned up also, with all new spade connectors:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057787.jpg

Smoke test will be tomorrow as it was well after dark when I finished.

On May 17, 4:20*am, "Danny D." wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 19:23:54 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

UPDATE:

The wiring was revised today, after taking in most of the input from the
a.h.r team.
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057637.jpg

All the wire ends were cleaned up, with new spade connectors, and
waterproof wire nuts with di-electric grease on all connections:
*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057765.jpg

The motor sides were cleaned up also, with all new spade connectors:
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057787.jpg

Smoke test will be tomorrow as it was well after dark when I finished.

Looks good! Good luck with the test.

On May 17, 7:58*am, "
wrote:
On May 17, 4:20*am, "Danny D." wrote:





On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 19:23:54 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

UPDATE:

The wiring was revised today, after taking in most of the input from the
a.h.r team.
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057637.jpg

All the wire ends were cleaned up, with new spade connectors, and
waterproof wire nuts with di-electric grease on all connections:
*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057765.jpg

The motor sides were cleaned up also, with all new spade connectors:
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057787.jpg

Smoke test will be tomorrow as it was well after dark when I finished.

Looks good! *Good luck with the test.- Hide quoted text -


There is one more thing. To be code compliant, there should
be some clamps holding the conduit. One on the short one,
a couple on the long one. But if it were mine, not sure I'd
bother with it.

On Fri, 17 May 2013 05:35:06 -0700, wrote:

To be code compliant, there should be some clamps holding the conduit.

Oh. I hadn't realized that. Thanks.

On Fri, 17 May 2013 05:35:06 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Smoke test will be tomorrow as it was well after dark when I finished.

Looks good! *Good luck with the test.- Hide quoted text -


There is one more thing. To be code compliant, there should
be some clamps holding the conduit. One on the short one,
a couple on the long one. But if it were mine, not sure I'd
bother with it.

I did notice on prior pics that clamps were on one flex conduit. The
one going to a third motor behind the filter.

On Fri, 17 May 2013 08:20:22 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 19:23:54 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

UPDATE:

The wiring was revised today, after taking in most of the input from the
a.h.r team.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057637.jpg


Move the paver to the left next to the pump. Move the box left on the
paver. Perhaps run the bonding wire under the paver to avoid a trip
hazard. Everything you have is flexible so place it where you are
comfortable.

snip

Smoke test will be tomorrow as it was well after dark when I finished.

Smoke test?!! I won't to see the damn LEAK test ... giggle

(seal them volute O-rings)

On Fri, 17 May 2013 11:08:32 -0700, Oren wrote:

Smoke test?!! I won't to see the damn LEAK test ... giggle
(seal them volute O-rings)

TESTING:
The electrical hookups didn't spark or smoke!

And, I did seal all the o-rings!
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070465.jpg

Unfortunately, I didn't think ahead to *replace* the o-rings:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070368.jpg

None of my new plumbing work is leaking, but there is a minor drop at the
filter inlet clamp (even though I cleaned and lubricated it and tightened
it as much as I could, by hand):
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070597.jpg

Even though I was judicious about tightening the filter clamps one turn
at a time in diagonal pairs, with use of a mallet to "shake" the seating
a bit, there are still some very minor leaks to handle:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070589.jpg

But, the big problem is that the pump itself has now developed a leak
even though I tightened the clamp down as much as possible by hand:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070364.jpg

And, I lubed the little o-ring on the impeller:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070568.jpg

This new leak is at the interface between the pool pump and the motor:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070382.jpg

I think there is a "seal" there that I've never replaced. Maybe I damaged
it. Dunno - but *both* motors are leaking from that location!
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070356.jpg

So, in summary:
a) Electrical is working
b) All the new plumbing is leak tight
c) There two minor drips at the filter itself (inlet & circumference)
d) But the big problem is that both pumps that I took apart are leaking!

On Fri, 17 May 2013 21:35:35 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

So, in summary:
a) Electrical is working

check

b) All the new plumbing is leak tight

check

c) There two minor drips at the filter itself (inlet & circumference)

oh shiit

d) But the big problem is that both pumps that I took apart are leaking!

See. I hate when that happens.

Leslie's Pool store will have (Sta-Rite) illustrations of the seal
where the motor mounts on one side of the volute. Have them copy the
paper for you.

If the motor shaft seal leaks, hunt for blackberries.

On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 07:14:55 -0700, Bob F wrote:

it into a Fernco that you use to connect the two pieces of pipe
back together. That would work for one connection, but on
the other strainer, it's all elbows, he has no pipe to work with.

If he can find the right size hose, and the fittings are or can be sanded
smooth, it should work fine.

What I ended up doing was cutting off or removing all the old plumbing
up to the very edge of the Jandy valve.

Then I put an oversized PVC 2.5" coupling on the outside of that Jandy
valve (which means it was three layers thick at that point).

I stepped down the 2.5" coupling with a bushing, making it 2" again.

From there, it was all 'normal' plumbing - and the results are that it
did not leak during the leak test.

On Thu, 02 May 2013 00:58:52 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

Thanks for all your help!

You were all very helpful in advising me on how best to
complete the repair of the incessant pool pump leak.

Here's a pic of the final result of the plumbing & electrical fixes:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13343543.jpg

There's only a drip at the filter - and nowhere else!
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13343549.jpg

Here's a video I made for you of all pumps running without leaking:
http://youtu.be/1MfbNxtVT4Y

The only thing left is to source those two proprietary filter fittings.

Lessons learned?
a. I should have repaired these pump leaks long ago
b. I should have replaced the conduit elbow at the motors with a straight
through fitting
c. I should NOT have put in that junction box
d. I should have wired the new conduit from the motor to the panel
e. I should have replaced *all* the plumbing, up to and including the
proprietary connectors at the filter itself

Danny D posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


On Thu, 02 May 2013 00:58:52 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

Thanks for all your help!

You were all very helpful in advising me on how best to
complete the repair of the incessant pool pump leak.

Here's a pic of the final result of the plumbing & electrical fixes:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13343543.jpg

Won't the sunlight attack the white PVC piping?
just asking... Maybe there is a cover?

--
Tekkie