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Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
There is no doubt my filter & cleaner pool pumps are both leaking copiously
at the inlet as shown below (mostly when the pumps are off): http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765654.jpg Up until now, I've been trying the "miracle in a tube" solution - but it's really not working to plug and glue and stop up the leaks. http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765714.jpg The problem is that the plumbing is pressed fitting to fitting, with 7 Jandy valves all pressed together, within a foot with nary a pipe in between: http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765681.jpg Is there a magic fitting that I can slip into the inlet that will fix this incessant leak without having to replace the pumps & Jandy valves? |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 19:23:54 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote: There is no doubt my filter & cleaner pool pumps are both leaking copiously at the inlet as shown below (mostly when the pumps are off): http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765654.jpg Up until now, I've been trying the "miracle in a tube" solution - but it's really not working to plug and glue and stop up the leaks. http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765714.jpg The problem is that the plumbing is pressed fitting to fitting, with 7 Jandy valves all pressed together, within a foot with nary a pipe in between: http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765681.jpg Is there a magic fitting that I can slip into the inlet that will fix this incessant leak without having to replace the pumps & Jandy valves? Is this a Hayward unit? I suspect it is a threaded slip PVC connector and NOT "pressed" into the leaf strainer. Check a unit at the pool store for threads inside... Looks like: http://www.thepondoutlet.com/shop/images/99144.jpg The fix it to cut it off and re-do the pipe. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 12:48:23 -0700 Oren wrote:
Is this a Hayward unit? I'm sorry for forgetting to mention the pump brand. They're both Sta-Rite Max-e-Glas II pumps. I had replaced this fitting on the OUTLET side: http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12766530.jpg So, maybe, just maybe, there's a similar threaded fitting on the leaking inlet side? |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Apr 23, 5:38*pm, "Danny D." wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 12:48:23 -0700 Oren wrote: Is this a Hayward unit? I'm sorry for forgetting to mention the pump brand. They're both Sta-Rite Max-e-Glas II pumps. I had replaced this fitting on the OUTLET side: *http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12766530.jpg So, maybe, just maybe, there's a similar threaded fitting on the leaking inlet side? That's probably what's there, ie it's threaded. Assuming the basket strainer itself is not cracked at the threads, then you could cut the pipe and put on a new slip to male threaded adaptor. But the other problem you have is that as you pointed out, they packed fitting to fitting to valves etc, without even an inch of pipe to work with. To get it apart and back together, you may have to sacrifice some valves or other components. Not clear from the pic exactly how to approach it. But when putting it back together, as long as you have room to the right of the pump, I'd move the pump over by 6 to 8" so that you have some pipe there to make future repairs easy. That is what should have been done in the first place. With some pipe you can just cut the pipe, get it apart, use a repair coupling to put it back together, etc. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
Danny D. wrote:
There is no doubt my filter & cleaner pool pumps are both leaking copiously at the inlet as shown below (mostly when the pumps are off): http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765654.jpg Up until now, I've been trying the "miracle in a tube" solution - but it's really not working to plug and glue and stop up the leaks. http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765714.jpg The problem is that the plumbing is pressed fitting to fitting, with 7 Jandy valves all pressed together, within a foot with nary a pipe in between: http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765681.jpg Is there a magic fitting that I can slip into the inlet that will fix this incessant leak without having to replace the pumps & Jandy valves? The fittings are probably threaded into the strainer baskets. You need to seal and re-tighten the threaded fittings. What I might try to easily solve this problem follows: 1. Find some reinforced rubber or reinforced plastic tubing (hose - 1 1/2 or 2" I.D.) which could be tightly forced over the ends of the ABS pipe fitting used. You will need 2 or so inches for each cut you need to make. Also get 2 stainless hose clamps sized to fit over that tubing for each repair you need to make. 2. Sand smooth the surface of the joint between two fittings, so you can get a good seal with the tubing later. Then cut the 2 fittings apart at the joint between them. 3. Replace or seal the threaded fitting. Before screwing the thread into the strainers, coat the thread with an ABS compatible pipe sealer, then wrap the coated thread with a few layers of 3/4" teflon tape. 4. Assuming you can flex the replaced and adjacent fitting apart far enough, pull the adjacent fitting back and slip the 1/2 of the 2" piece of rubber hose over the replaced fitting, and then slide the adjacent fitting into the other end of the hose piece. 5. Tighten a hose clamp very snugly onto each end of the hose piece. Test the repair. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 15:01:18 -0700 wrote:
But when putting it back together, as long as you have room to the right of the pump, I'd move the pump over by 6 to 8" so that you have some pipe there to make future repairs easy. That is what should have been done in the first place. If I end up cutting the fittings, I _will_ move the pumps back a foot or two as shown in this photo (yellow arrows): http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12766637.jpg The problem is saving the Jandy valves & pump by cutting at the right two spots for each pump. Here's a large picture showing how closely packed the fittings are to the filter pump: http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12767319.jpg It sure does NOT look threaded - but it must be. Right? |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
Is it leaking at thread, or is the housing cracked?
.. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. .. "Danny D." wrote in message ... There is no doubt my filter & cleaner pool pumps are both leaking copiously at the inlet as shown below (mostly when the pumps are off): http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765654.jpg Up until now, I've been trying the "miracle in a tube" solution - but it's really not working to plug and glue and stop up the leaks. http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765714.jpg The problem is that the plumbing is pressed fitting to fitting, with 7 Jandy valves all pressed together, within a foot with nary a pipe in between: http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765681.jpg Is there a magic fitting that I can slip into the inlet that will fix this incessant leak without having to replace the pumps & Jandy valves? |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 21:38:43 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote: On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 12:48:23 -0700 Oren wrote: Is this a Hayward unit? I'm sorry for forgetting to mention the pump brand. They're both Sta-Rite Max-e-Glas II pumps. I had replaced this fitting on the OUTLET side: http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12766530.jpg So, maybe, just maybe, there's a similar threaded fitting on the leaking inlet side? What trader said. It is possible that there is a crack in the strainer adjacent the connection. My Stay-Rite filter housing leaked when running the pump. Had to have been a crack in the bottom of the housing. No other obvious reason to leak. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 01:24:24 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote: Here's a large picture showing how closely packed the fittings are to the filter pump: http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12767319.jpg It sure does NOT look threaded - but it must be. Right? You cannot tell, because of all the cruddy patches on the connection. Buy the way, I'm told Stay-Rite is no longer a player in the pump and filter world. Pentair and Hayward are now the *major* players. I replaced my system with a Pentair pump and a Hayward filter. YMMV |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Tuesday, April 23, 2013 12:23:54 PM UTC-7, Danny D. wrote:
There is no doubt my filter & cleaner pool pumps are both leaking copiously at the inlet as shown below (mostly when the pumps are off): http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765654.jpg Up until now, I've been trying the "miracle in a tube" solution - but it's really not working to plug and glue and stop up the leaks. http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765714.jpg The problem is that the plumbing is pressed fitting to fitting, with 7 Jandy valves all pressed together, within a foot with nary a pipe in between: http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765681.jpg Is there a magic fitting that I can slip into the inlet that will fix this incessant leak without having to replace the pumps & Jandy valves? “the plumbing is pressed fitting to fitting, with 7 Jandy valves all pressed together, within a foot with nary a pipe in between” That is exactly the difference between a technician and a contractor. A contractor only cares about you until he gets paid, a technician makes sure he doesn’t have to come back and re-do the what he just did because he’s employed to maintain the equipment of the company and he wants to get paid the next pay day as well as the one after that. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 20:20:22 -0700 Oren wrote:
I replaced my system with a Pentair pump & a Hayward filter. In California, it is illegal to replace my 1.65 HP single-speed pump with a single-speed pump by anyone but the homeowner. http://westhawaiipoolsupply.com/LessMore.pdf So, if I hired anyone to replace anything, I'm told it will costs thousands of dollars because the entire system has to be redesigned & rebuilt to accommodate multi-speed pumps. And I wouldn't have the knowhow (or money) to design my own multi-speed system. I think I'll try to find a way to move the two pumps back about a foot (& maybe to the side as was suggested). That means cutting at the inlet, as close as I can to preserve both the pump and the nearest Jandy valve. Here's a smaller picture with the two inlets circled: http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12767439.jpg (bigger picture below) It looks like the filter pump (left side in the picture) has a straight "thing" that can be cut - but this thing appears to be a "sleeve" or "repair" of some sort (as it has a slice in the top that you can see in the photo). If I cut that "thing" in half, I might be able to move the filter bump backward a foot or two. The problem on the cleaner pump (right side of the picture) is that there are two 90 degree elbows flush out of the pump and butting up against the Jandy valve. So, the question there is _where_ would you cut the cleaner pump inlet lines? Here is a better (bigger) closeup of the problem: http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12767438.jpg |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 22:28:01 -0400 Stormin Mormon wrote:
Is it leaking at thread, or is the housing cracked? I don't know. But I think it's coming out at the threads. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Apr 24, 12:13*am, "Danny D." wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 20:20:22 -0700 Oren wrote: I replaced my system with a Pentair pump & a Hayward filter. In California, it is illegal to replace my 1.65 HP single-speed pump with a single-speed pump by anyone but the homeowner. *http://westhawaiipoolsupply.com/LessMore.pdf So, if I hired anyone to replace anything, I'm told it will costs thousands of dollars because the entire system has to be redesigned & rebuilt to accommodate multi-speed pumps. And I wouldn't have the knowhow (or money) to design my own multi-speed system. I think I'll try to find a way to move the two pumps back about a foot (& maybe to the side as was suggested). That means cutting at the inlet, as close as I can to preserve both the pump and the nearest Jandy valve. Here's a smaller picture with the two inlets circled: *http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12767439.jpg *(bigger picture below) It looks like the filter pump (left side in the picture) has a straight "thing" that can be cut - but this thing appears to be a "sleeve" or "repair" of some sort (as it has a slice in the top that you can see in the photo). If I cut that "thing" in half, I might be able to move the filter bump backward a foot or two. The problem on the cleaner pump (right side of the picture) is that there are two 90 degree elbows flush out of the pump and butting up against the Jandy valve. So, the question there is _where_ would you cut the cleaner pump inlet lines? Here is a better (bigger) closeup of the problem: *http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12767438.jpg It's hard to tell exactly how far back you'd have to go and what all you'd have to replace when you cut this apart. The problem as everyone agrees is that it's all put together with no straight pipe in between that you could cut and rejoin. Some things to keep in mind: If the strainer basket is cracked, you can very likely replace just that, without replacing the pump. manual 3 port valves aren't terribly expensive, so if you have to replace one it's not the end of the world. The ones I have are glued fittings, so I think you're going to wind up having to do that. It looks like you have a motorized valve. Don't know what kind that is, but with the one I have, it uses a standard 3 port valve and the motor part just replaces the top part. So, if yours is like that and you have to replace the motorized valve, it may be no worse or expensive than replacing a 3 port valve. If you cut it all apart and move the pumps back, I would put unions on both of them. They did put a union on the discharge side of one pump, but it's not clear to me that having just that one does any good, because you still can't remove the pump. With unions on the suction side, if you need to work on a pump or replace it, you just unscrew the union. If you can do this yourself, even if you have to buy a couple valves, etc, it's going to be a LOT cheaper than calling a pool company. Depending on your cost of electricity, replacing those pumps with dual speed ones could have a reasonable cost recovery period. The idea is that they run at low speed to filter the water, which is most of the time. Instead of running the pump for say 6 hours, you run it maybe 18 hours to move the same amount of water. But it uses a lot less electricity because the energy required goes up at like the cube of the speed. But I would only use a std dual speed pump. They only cost a little more than a regular pump. There are also variable speed pumps, which have electronics and are very expensive. Those, IMO, are nuts. Finally, how bad is it actually leaking? For example, If it leaks two gallons a day, unless it's causing other problems, is it worth fixing? |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 04:58:20 -0700 wrote:
Here is a better (bigger) closeup of the problem: Â*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12767438.jpg It's hard to tell exactly how far back you'd have to go and what all you'd have to replace when you cut this apart. How do these two spots look for places to cut? 1. Straight section of the "sleeve" in the filter pump inlet: http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12768148.jpg Note: This straight section has a weird "gash" in the top of it; so it may not actually be a "pipe" but more of a sleeve over a pipe. I'm not actually sure. 2. Elbowed section in the cleaner pump inlet: http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12768151.jpg Once I make these two cuts, I might be able to slip a pip OVER the Jandy valve inlet, thereby saving the Jandy valves. If I have to remove the Jandy valves, I'll have to drain the pool because the filter pumps are 8 feet below the waterline. Sigh... Jandy valve neck |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 13:33:06 +0000 Danny D. wrote:
How do these two spots look for places to cut? http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12768148.jpg http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12768151.jpg Ooops. I posted the original pic by mistake. Here is a shrunken pic where the marks are annotated where I think it is being suggested to cut flush with the Jandy valve: 1. Straight section of the "sleeve" in the filter pump inlet: http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...0/12768140.jpg 2. Elbowed section in the cleaner pump inlet: http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12768141.jpg |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
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Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
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Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Apr 24, 9:33*am, "Danny D." wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 04:58:20 -0700 wrote: Here is a better (bigger) closeup of the problem: *http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12767438.jpg It's hard to tell exactly how far back you'd have to go and what all you'd have to replace when you cut this apart. How do these two spots look for places to cut? 1. Straight section of the "sleeve" in the filter pump inlet: * *http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12768148.jpg * *Note: This straight section has a weird "gash" in the top of * * * * *it; so it may not actually be a "pipe" but more of a * * * * *sleeve over a pipe. I'm not actually sure. I don't know exactly what that section is composed of either. But why not just cut it about 1 1/2" from the valve? That looks like just normal pipe. Then you have 1 1/2" of pipe sticking out to put a coupling on when you rebuild. 2. Elbowed section in the cleaner pump inlet: * *http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12768151.jpg But that section is all just elbows, no pipe. So, it doesn't matter where you cut it. And the pipe is glued into the valve. Normally, I'd say you'd have to replace the valve. But...... A few months back on This Old House, Richard Trethway was working on a sink and he used a tool I'd never seen before. It goes on the end of a drill and it's made to go inside a previously glued PVC fitting and ream out the old glued in pipe part so that the fitting can be saved and used again. It's made for situations like you have. Once I make these two cuts, I might be able to slip a pip OVER the Jandy valve inlet, thereby saving the Jandy valves. Ain't nothing going over that because those valves are goes inta, ie they are a slip/glue fitting. If I have to remove the Jandy valves, I'll have to drain the pool because the filter pumps are 8 feet below the waterline. Sigh... Jandy valve neck |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Apr 24, 9:35*am, "Danny D." wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 13:33:06 +0000 Danny D. wrote: How do these two spots look for places to cut? *http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12768148.jpg *http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12768151.jpg Ooops. I posted the original pic by mistake. Here is a shrunken pic where the marks are annotated where I think it is being suggested to cut flush with the Jandy valve: 1. Straight section of the "sleeve" in the filter pump inlet: * *http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...0/12768140.jpg You for sure don't want to cut that right next to the valve. If you do, you have nothing to attach to. As I said before, I'd cut it 1 1/2" back from the valve. That leaves you with a nice stub to glue a coupling on. Or you could cut it further back, closer to the strainer, where the white arrow is. 2. Elbowed section in the cleaner pump inlet: * *http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12768141.jpg Doesn't matter much where you cut that part, it's all scrap. See my other post about the tool to drill out the valve fitting. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Apr 24, 9:40*am, "Danny D." wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 04:58:20 -0700 wrote: It looks like you have a motorized valve. *Don't know what kind that is, but with the one I have, it uses a standard 3 port valve and the motor part just replaces the top part. I think it's the same with mine. Basically the top (electrical) half is a CompPool valve; with the bottom part being the original mechanical Jandy valve. If I cut flush with the valve port, I might be able to slip an oversized pipe OVER the outside of the valve, and then taper that pipe back down to the original size before going into the pool pump. The operative word there is "might". Normally there is no way in hell you could do that with regular PVC sized fittings. There just isn't one made to go over. BUT... with some of these pool valves, etc they do make them to accomodate two different size pipes. So, there is a CHANCE that might be possible. A spec sheet for the valve would say. But, why even go there? The straightforward simple solution is to just cut the pipe so you leave a 1 1/2" stub coming out of the valve. Then glue a coupling to that..... But the only way I'll be able to do that is to move the pumps back about a foot or two - which is fine by me as pipe is cheap. It's the valves which are expensive. Plus, if I remove the valves, the entire pool has to be drained because they're well below the pool water level. Doh! But fortunately I think it can be done without draining the pool. But you'll need a special tool to bore out the other valve with the elbows going into it. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Apr 24, 9:42*am, "Danny D." wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 04:58:20 -0700 wrote: If you cut it all apart and move the pumps back, I would put unions on both of them. *They did put a union on the discharge side of one pump, but it's not clear to me that having just that one does any good, because you still can't remove the pump. Funny you mention that because "I" put that one union in when I had to replace a cracked Jandy valve on the outlet side of the cleaner pump. And, I agree. One union does me no good - but what I can do is put a union on the inlet side, and then I can remove the pump at will. I also need to figure out how to safely extend the 220V heavy wire. For that, I was thinking of bolting a junction box to the concrete. Would that work? Yes, but these runs are usually so short the easier thing is to replace the whole liquid tight conduit back to wherever it goes. There is probably a control box nearby, no? |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Apr 24, 10:20*am, "
wrote: On Apr 24, 9:42*am, "Danny D." wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 04:58:20 -0700 wrote: If you cut it all apart and move the pumps back, I would put unions on both of them. *They did put a union on the discharge side of one pump, but it's not clear to me that having just that one does any good, because you still can't remove the pump. Funny you mention that because "I" put that one union in when I had to replace a cracked Jandy valve on the outlet side of the cleaner pump. And, I agree. One union does me no good - but what I can do is put a union on the inlet side, and then I can remove the pump at will. I also need to figure out how to safely extend the 220V heavy wire. For that, I was thinking of bolting a junction box to the concrete. Would that work? Yes, but these runs are usually so short the easier thing is to replace the whole liquid tight conduit back to wherever it goes. * There is probably a control box nearby, no?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And besides the power run, you also need to make sure the two pumps remain tied to the bonding system. That's the heavy solid copper wire that's connected to the motors now. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 13:33:06 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote: How do these two spots look for places to cut? 1. Straight section of the "sleeve" in the filter pump inlet: http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12768148.jpg Note: This straight section has a weird "gash" in the top of it; so it may not actually be a "pipe" but more of a sleeve over a pipe. I'm not actually sure. 2. Elbowed section in the cleaner pump inlet: http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12768151.jpg Once I make these two cuts, I might be able to slip a pip OVER the Jandy valve inlet, thereby saving the Jandy valves. If I have to remove the Jandy valves, I'll have to drain the pool because the filter pumps are 8 feet below the waterline. Sigh... Jandy valve neck I'd cut them closer to the strainer, saving what is closer to the Jandy valves. They make an inside slip / reducer fitting (pool shop) that will fit inside the pipe (glued), thus no need to go over the pipe. Pic: http://insertfittings.com/catalog/images/pvccouplerslipreducer.jpg I'm guessing: two (2) slip reducer fittings Two (2) slip / threaded fittings X length of pipe and glue This ought to allow you to move the pumps back. The union fittings are the cats meow as trader mentioned. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:07:37 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: Once I make these two cuts, I might be able to slip a pip OVER the Jandy valve inlet, thereby saving the Jandy valves. Ain't nothing going over that because those valves are goes inta, ie they are a slip/glue fitting. They make a slip / reducer fitting that will slide inside the pipe. Had to have one when my unit was replaced. http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/carwc.szhuu/v/vspfiles/photos/Reducer-Bushing-SpigxSlip-2T.jpg |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:20:39 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: I also need to figure out how to safely extend the 220V heavy wire. For that, I was thinking of bolting a junction box to the concrete. Would that work? Yes, but these runs are usually so short the easier thing is to replace the whole liquid tight conduit back to wherever it goes. There is probably a control box nearby, no? +2 For the bonding wire, mine was just another piece of copper that added length to reach the motor, then clamped to bond the two pieces. Kind of like this clamp: http://www.inyopools.com/images/Spa/GB-5-5_jpg.jpg The tab piece with the hole was removed by bending a few times to break it off. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
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Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Apr 24, 12:15*pm, "Danny D." wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:12:50 -0700 wrote: See my other post about the tool to drill out the valve fitting. Don't I have two options for restoring the valve fitting opening? a) I can drill out the inside pipe to restore the original * *ID of the valve fitting ... b) Or I can simply place an oversized pipe on the outside of * *the valve fitting, and then step that oversized pipe down * *to the standard 2-inch pipe by the time it gets to the pool * *pump? Right? If so, the second option *seems* easier (if it works). As i said earlier, you MAY have that option. IF the valve is designed for that. I have seen pool components that are designed to accomodate two different size pipes. But they are not ALL that way. If that were a regular PVC valve, there is no way you'd connect to the outside, because it's not designed for it. The outside of a regular PVC valve isn't a standard size that you can put another PVC fitting, pipe, etc over. If you can do it that way, then yes, for sure it's easier. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:07:37 -0700 wrote:
That looks like just normal pipe. Then you have 1 1/2" of pipe sticking out to put a coupling on when you rebuild. It looks like normal pipe - but notice this huge but ancient gash cut deeply circumferentially in the middle of it. http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12771629.jpg If that sleeve were only a single-wall pipe, that gash is so deep that I suspect the pipe would have burst long ago, don't you think? If it weren't for that deep gash, I'd agree that it would appear to just be a regular pipe. But that gash tells me there *may* be a pipe inside of a pipe. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Apr 24, 11:48*am, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:07:37 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: Once I make these two cuts, I might be able to slip a pip OVER the Jandy valve inlet, thereby saving the Jandy valves. Ain't nothing going over that because those valves are goes inta, ie they are a slip/glue fitting. They make a slip / reducer fitting *that will slide inside the pipe. Had to have one when my unit was replaced. http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/carwc.szhuu/v/vspfil... Yes, I saw your earlier post. But why would you want to use a fitting that reduces the size of the pipe, when you can just leave a 1 1/2" stub coming out of the valve and then use a 50c regular PVC coupling? |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 09:24:19 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: On Apr 24, 11:48*am, Oren wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:07:37 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: Once I make these two cuts, I might be able to slip a pip OVER the Jandy valve inlet, thereby saving the Jandy valves. Ain't nothing going over that because those valves are goes inta, ie they are a slip/glue fitting. They make a slip / reducer fitting *that will slide inside the pipe. Had to have one when my unit was replaced. http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/carwc.szhuu/v/vspfil... Yes, I saw your earlier post. But why would you want to use a fitting that reduces the size of the pipe, when you can just leave a 1 1/2" stub coming out of the valve and then use a 50c regular PVC coupling? Agree. In my case one reducer was used to connect the solar pipe. Without the reducer it would have meant plenty more work. It was the simplest method. There was little, if any affect on water flow or pressure. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 08:48:59 -0700 Oren wrote:
They make a slip / reducer fitting that will slide inside the pipe. I think I'll take advantage of that reducer fitting! In fact, I think that seemingly straight run into the filter pump might actually be two reducers fitted end-to-end ??? I surmise that because of this huge circumferential "gash" at the center point of that straight run outlined by the arrows: http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12771655.jpg Here's a closeup of that "gash": http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12771692.jpg Do you think this straight run is actually two of those reducer fittings, pressed together, end to end? |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Apr 24, 12:23*pm, "Danny D." wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:07:37 -0700 wrote: That looks like just normal pipe. *Then you have 1 1/2" of pipe sticking out to put a coupling on when you rebuild. It looks like normal pipe - but notice this huge but ancient gash cut deeply circumferentially in the middle of it. *http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12771629.jpg If that sleeve were only a single-wall pipe, that gash is so deep that I suspect the pipe would have burst long ago, don't you think? If it weren't for that deep gash, I'd agree that it would appear to just be a regular pipe. But that gash tells me there *may* be a pipe inside of a pipe. Just cut the pipe off 1 1/2" from the valve, before the gash. Do you want to make everything harder and more complicated than it has to be? There isn't a pipe inside a pipe. And there isn't anything to make it burst. You're looking at the suction side |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:38:19 -0700 Oren wrote:
I'd cut them closer to the strainer, saving what is closer to the Jandy valves. I see what you mean. Makes sense what you say. Good thing I had asked because my first thought was to cut flush with the Jandy valves. But, if I do as you suggest, I can always cut closer and closer to the Jandy valves anyway (big can always be made smaller). |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
|
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:20:39 -0700 wrote:
Yes, but these runs are usually so short the easier thing is to replace the whole liquid tight conduit back to wherever it goes. There is probably a control box nearby, no? Hmmmmmm.... yes there is a control box very close nearby. Here it is, circled, in yellow: http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12771878.jpg But, I have a secondary reason for wanting to put a junction box on the concrete next to the motor (if that meets code). The installers didn't add a single inch of unnecessary wire! So, when I remove the motor for bearing replacement, it's ridiculously tough to unroute the thick copper wires, disconnect them from the motor, and then reroute & reconnect them back when I'm done. Basically, the only way to do it, since there is a tight 90 degree elbow right at the motor itself, is to spin the heavy motor to tighten that elbow. It's ridiculously hard! So, by adding the following, it would make pump removal easy: 1. Add a union at the inlet and outlet pipes of the pump 2. Add a junction box for the very thick 220v wires The key thing is that I have to be safe with the wiring because there is a lot of water and ground lying around. :) |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessantleak?
|
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Apr 24, 1:05*pm, "Danny D." wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:20:39 -0700 wrote: Yes, but these runs are usually so short the easier thing is to replace the whole liquid tight conduit back to wherever it goes. * There is probably a control box nearby, no? Hmmmmmm.... yes there is a control box very close nearby. Here it is, circled, in yellow: *http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12771878.jpg But, I have a secondary reason for wanting to put a junction box on the concrete next to the motor (if that meets code). Yes, you can do that if you wish. Use a waterproof junction box. The installers didn't add a single inch of unnecessary wire! So, when I remove the motor for bearing replacement, it's ridiculously tough to unroute the thick copper wires, disconnect them from the motor, and then reroute & reconnect them back when I'm done. Alternatively you could just replace the conduit and wires with longer ones that would have some slack so it's not as difficult. Basically, the only way to do it, since there is a tight 90 degree elbow right at the motor itself, is to spin the heavy motor to tighten that elbow. It's ridiculously hard! That part I don't get. Normally the conduit connector goes into the motor and is held in place by a nut, no? So, by adding the following, it would make pump removal easy: 1. Add a union at the inlet and outlet pipes of the pump 2. Add a junction box for the very thick 220v wires The key thing is that I have to be safe with the wiring because there is a lot of water and ground lying around. :) Technically, if you want to be 100% code compliant, since you're moving the motors and rewiring the circuit, it should be on a circuit with a GFCI breaker. |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Apr 24, 12:46*pm, "Danny D." wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:18:48 -0700 wrote: But you'll need a special tool to bore out the other valve with the elbows going into it. Do you think I can get this tool at Home Depot or Lowes? I just googled and didn't really find this at the box stores: *http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvcsaver.html http://www.plumbingstore.com/tools_p...ing_savers.htm http://www.ohiopowertool.com/P-4937-...lect-size.aspx |
Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 16:37:01 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 08:48:59 -0700 Oren wrote: They make a slip / reducer fitting that will slide inside the pipe. I think I'll take advantage of that reducer fitting! In fact, I think that seemingly straight run into the filter pump might actually be two reducers fitted end-to-end ??? I surmise that because of this huge circumferential "gash" at the center point of that straight run outlined by the arrows: http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12771655.jpg Here's a closeup of that "gash": http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12771692.jpg On each side of this "gash", is the pipe the same OD size? Do you think this straight run is actually two of those reducer fittings, pressed together, end to end? No. I *_suspect_* it is a short piece of pipe that connects two slip fittings, which "should" have been a larger piece. The installer did no favors for the next person having to make repairs. |
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