On 5/1/2013 11:27 AM, Danny D. wrote:
On Wed, 01 May 2013 11:17:18 -0700 chaniarts wrote:

BTW, what do you suggest I put on the endcap steel bolts
so that they DON'T RUST solid?
i use anti-seize on things i want to unscrew at a later date.

Hmmm... Lately I've been oiling them, to prevent rust,
but I hadn't thought of the anti-seize paste (which I
have a lot of from my automotive efforts).

I never thought of anti-seize as "anti rust".
But it sounds like it should work!

i don't care if the outside rusts. i care if the threads or head rust to
the other metal parts.

oil tends to dry out over time. antiseize is designed to not do so.

On Wed, 1 May 2013 15:34:52 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Since I'm not sure where the pumps will actually end up,
I figured I'd get that solid wire last since it's not
a "functional" requirement. (Yes, I know, it's a safety
requirement - so what I'll do is clamp to the existing
bonding wire when testing or more likely - I'll run with
the dark horses & just stay a few feet away while testing.)

You go Dog! Make it happen Cap pin

On Wed, 1 May 2013 17:14:16 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

The darn elbow drove me crazy for a total of six motors so far
(the first three are shown below):

...cut that sum bitchin' elbow off with a hack saw, next time

Right up next to the metal. Done!

On Wed, 1 May 2013 17:58:36 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

BTW, what do you suggest I put on the endcap steel bolts
so that they DON'T RUST solid?

Loctite EXTEND Rust Neutralizer, fresh paint and thread lube.

Unless you can find stainless bolts that size.

On Wed, 01 May 2013 11:35:25 -0700 chaniarts wrote:

oil tends to dry out over time. antiseize is designed to not do so.

I will use anti-seize when I put the motor back in!
Thanks for the tidbit.

NOTE: The main reason those three motors couldn't be repaired by
me was that the long bolts (which are about 15 or so inches long)
always break - because they too are rusted in place.

Why on earth they use soft steel bolts that are a couple of
millimeters thick and more than a foot long for an outside
motor is beyond me.

If they made stainless steel replacements, that's what I'd
put in them!

On Wed, 1 May 2013 17:27:14 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Wed, 01 May 2013 09:43:56 -0700 Oren wrote:

Had he removed the wire from the control box and pull the wire out of
the conduit, the elbow *should* spin off.

I'll say it bluntly that fear of the unknown is my reason.


Me too. Keep one hand in your pocket... Redneck electric work

Turn the breakers off.

On Wed, 01 May 2013 11:20:04 -0700 Oren wrote:

disconnect the wires at the control box

OK. That's it!
You publicly shamed me into taking a closer look at the control panel:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829141.jpg

This is what I found inside, which, incidentally, is the kind
of "junction box" that I was expecting to put on the ground:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829143.jpg

I guess I would unscrew the nut and then loosen the three
bolts holding down the wires to disconnect?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829147.jpg

PS: What is that thing hanging down to the left that looks
like a potentiometer?

On Wed, 1 May 2013 21:06:38 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Wed, 01 May 2013 11:20:04 -0700 Oren wrote:

disconnect the wires at the control box

OK. That's it!
You publicly shamed me into taking a closer look at the control panel:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829141.jpg

This is what I found inside, which, incidentally, is the kind
of "junction box" that I was expecting to put on the ground:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829143.jpg

I guess I would unscrew the nut and then loosen the three
bolts holding down the wires to disconnect?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829147.jpg

PS: What is that thing hanging down to the left that looks
like a potentiometer?

What does label say inside the door?

I'm not familiar with danglin' participles in electrical work.

On Wed, 1 May 2013 21:06:38 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Wed, 01 May 2013 11:20:04 -0700 Oren wrote:

disconnect the wires at the control box

OK. That's it!
You publicly shamed me into taking a closer look at the control panel:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829141.jpg

This is what I found inside, which, incidentally, is the kind
of "junction box" that I was expecting to put on the ground:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829143.jpg

I guess I would unscrew the nut and then loosen the three
bolts holding down the wires to disconnect?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829147.jpg

PS: What is that thing hanging down to the left that looks
like a potentiometer?


What in the world is being "controlled" besides the two pumps and that
requires all that wiring????

On Wed, 01 May 2013 13:12:19 -0700 Oren wrote:

Loctite EXTEND Rust Neutralizer, fresh paint and thread lube.
Unless you can find stainless bolts that size.

You can paint threads?

Here is a picture of the last 3 pool pump motors I
"tried" to repair. Notice every single bolt broke!

http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829707.jpg

If they made stainless steel bolts to that size, it would
be worth it - because when they break, you have to hammer
the motor open.

On Wed, 01 May 2013 15:05:31 -0700, Ashton Crusher
wrote:

PS: What is that thing hanging down to the left that looks
like a potentiometer?


What in the world is being "controlled" besides the two pumps and that
requires all that wiring????

Danny can post the long view fixtures, of his pool minefield.

I quickly called it an Octopus. First time I seen it.

an old thread

On Wed, 01 May 2013 15:05:31 -0700 Ashton Crusher wrote:

What in the world is being "controlled" besides the two pumps and that
requires all that wiring????

I have no idea if that's a lot of wires for a controller or not.

But to answer your question, it seems to control:
1. Three single-speed 220V pumps (filter, cleaner, spa jets)
2. Two 24V Jandy valves (solar:gas heating & spaool filtering)
3. One gas-fired heater (for spa & pool heating)
4. Two sets of underwater lights (in the pool & spa)

That's about it (I think).

I would think that's a pretty normal setup - so your question about
"all that wiring" is surprising to me (but I don't know any other pool).

Here's the picture of the wiring again (so you don't have to look it up):
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829143.jpg

On 5/1/2013 3:15 PM, Danny D. wrote:
On Wed, 01 May 2013 13:12:19 -0700 Oren wrote:

Loctite EXTEND Rust Neutralizer, fresh paint and thread lube.
Unless you can find stainless bolts that size.

You can paint threads?

no, unless you don't ever want to get them unthreaded.

On Wed, 01 May 2013 16:25:50 -0700 chaniarts wrote:

You can paint threads?

no, unless you don't ever want to get them unthreaded.

I didn't think so.

It would be nice to source stainless steel bolts so this
doesn't happen again!
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829707.jpg

On Tue, 30 Apr 2013 09:37:41 -0700 wrote:

Yeah, that's true. But properly done, the probability of a
PVC joint leaking is extremely low.

Turns out the Ewing fitting was EXACTLY the same as Home Depot.
So I had wasted a trip.

Luckily, I stopped off to talk to Bob, at Swimco, just around
the corner. That guy will talk your ear off (I love him!) with
that gravelly voice - but boy oh boy - does he KNOW motors!

On May 1, 5:06*pm, "Danny D." wrote:
On Wed, 01 May 2013 11:20:04 -0700 Oren wrote:

disconnect the wires at the control box

OK. That's it!
You publicly shamed me into taking a closer look at the control panel:
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829141.jpg

This is what I found inside, which, incidentally, is the kind
of "junction box" that I was expecting to put on the ground:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829143.jpg

I guess I would unscrew the nut and then loosen the three
bolts holding down the wires to disconnect?
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829147.jpg

PS: What is that thing hanging down to the left that looks
* * like a potentiometer?

That's a temperature sensor, part of the solar control system.
To measure water temp, you drill a hole in the PVC pipe that
accomondates the long part, the sensor goes in and a hose
clamp secures it in place. There is a seal that is part of it
that prevents it from leaking. Or it could go at the solar panels
to measure the temp there. Those are the two relevant temps.
What it's doing hanging there, IDK. It may be one more that
acts as a freeze sensor, but would seem to me the one on
the solar panels could do that too.

If it was installed just hanging there like that, it;s another
fine example of incompetent installers.

On 5/1/2013 5:49 PM, Danny D. wrote:
On Wed, 01 May 2013 16:25:50 -0700 chaniarts wrote:

You can paint threads?

no, unless you don't ever want to get them unthreaded.

I didn't think so.

It would be nice to source stainless steel bolts so this
doesn't happen again!
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829707.jpg


have you tried mcmaster-carr? they're going to be expensive no matter
where you find them.

do they have to be threaded all the way? perhaps you can get some ss rod
and have someone thread just the ends.

On May 2, 1:09*pm, chaniarts wrote:
On 5/1/2013 5:49 PM, Danny D. wrote:

On Wed, 01 May 2013 16:25:50 -0700 chaniarts wrote:

You can paint threads?

no, unless you don't ever want to get them unthreaded.

I didn't think so.

It would be nice to source stainless steel bolts so this
doesn't happen again!
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829707.jpg

have you tried mcmaster-carr? they're going to be expensive no matter
where you find them.

do they have to be threaded all the way? perhaps you can get some ss rod
and have someone thread just the ends.

From the looks of that pic, maybe a better
idea is to get a whole new pump, because one has to wonder
if what's there will ever work correctly if he puts it back together.

Also, a dual speed pump would likely pay for itself with a reasonable
payback period, depending on his cost of electricity

On Thu, 2 May 2013 10:14:52 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On May 2, 1:09*pm, chaniarts wrote:
On 5/1/2013 5:49 PM, Danny D. wrote:

On Wed, 01 May 2013 16:25:50 -0700 chaniarts wrote:

You can paint threads?

no, unless you don't ever want to get them unthreaded.

I didn't think so.

It would be nice to source stainless steel bolts so this
doesn't happen again!
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829707.jpg

have you tried mcmaster-carr? they're going to be expensive no matter
where you find them.

do they have to be threaded all the way? perhaps you can get some ss rod
and have someone thread just the ends.

From the looks of that pic, maybe a better
idea is to get a whole new pump, because one has to wonder
if what's there will ever work correctly if he puts it back together.

Also, a dual speed pump would likely pay for itself with a reasonable
payback period, depending on his cost of electricity

I'm guessing these photo parts are from a junk pile of his older
motors. If Danny used _them_, we would be here all day!

They don't look like his Sta-Rit pumps.

On Thu, 02 May 2013 10:09:56 -0700, chaniarts wrote:

do they have to be threaded all the way? perhaps you can get some ss rod
and have someone thread just the ends.

They are only threaded on the last inch.

On Thu, 02 May 2013 10:14:52 -0700, wrote:

From the looks of that pic, maybe a better idea is to get a whole new
pump, because one has to wonder if what's there will ever work correctly
if he puts it back together.

Yup. Already been done.

All three of those motors have already been replaced, so, they've
just been sitting outside, as spare parts or whatever
(hate to throw away something that _might_ be useful some day).

Also, a dual speed pump would likely pay for itself with a
reasonable payback period, depending on his cost of electricity

I never understood dual-speed motors. All the filter pump does
is filter. All the cleaner pump does is feed the pop ups in the
bottom of the pool.

Why would I ever want to change the speed of that?

And, if I do want a slower speed, why didn't they make the
motors at the desired speed in the first place?

On Thu, 02 May 2013 10:36:22 -0700, Oren wrote:

I'm guessing these photo parts are from a junk pile of his older motors.
If Danny used _them_, we would be here all day!

Exactly. Those are my old filter, cleaner, and spa jet motors.
I took them apart, with the hopes of fixing them; but I learned
that the time to make the bolts easier to remove is BEFORE the
motor goes bad! Like now, when I have a 1-year old motor in
my hands.

BTW, tonight I hope to assemble everything so I'm agonizing
over where exactly to put the two pumps.

One question I have is about this silly looking red valve:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/.../12834912.jpg]

I'm sure it's a drain of some sort, probably for the cloth
cartridge filter thing - but I've never used it. It's not
threaded, so nothing goes on the other end. I can easily
drain the filters simply by removing the pump basket cover,
since the equipment is 8 feet below waterline, I can drain
the entire pool from the pump basket, if I _really_ want to.

Do you have any idea what this red drain is for?
If so, would you replace it or eliminate it when moving
the pumps back?

On May 2, 1:53*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Thu, 02 May 2013 10:36:22 -0700, Oren wrote:
I'm guessing these photo parts are from a junk pile of his older motors..
*If Danny used _them_, we would be here all day!

Exactly. Those are my old filter, cleaner, and spa jet motors.
I took them apart, with the hopes of fixing them; but I learned
that the time to make the bolts easier to remove is BEFORE the
motor goes bad! Like now, when I have a 1-year old motor in
my hands.

Oh, I didn't know you had your own scrap yard too.....




BTW, tonight I hope to assemble everything so I'm agonizing
over where exactly to put the two pumps.

One question I have is about this silly looking red valve:
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/.../12834912.jpg]

I'm sure it's a drain of some sort, probably for the cloth
cartridge filter thing - but I've never used it. It's not
threaded, so nothing goes on the other end. I can easily
drain the filters simply by removing the pump basket cover,
since the equipment is 8 feet below waterline, I can drain
the entire pool from the pump basket, if I _really_ want to.

Do you have any idea what this red drain is for?
If so, would you replace it or eliminate it when moving
the pumps back?

No idea. Don't see any use for it and I would eliminate it.

On Thu, 2 May 2013 17:53:57 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

BTW, tonight I hope to assemble everything so I'm agonizing
over where exactly to put the two pumps.


Some place so you won't stumbled over them and poke your eye out

One question I have is about this silly looking red valve:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/.../12834912.jpg]

.... a PVC ball valve, red is not important.

When the ball is closed, as your valve is, it is perpendicular to the
pipe. When open, the handle points parallel to the pipe.

If one side is not connected then it must be a drain....

On May 2, 1:50*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Thu, 02 May 2013 10:14:52 -0700, wrote:
From the looks of that pic, maybe a better idea is to get a whole new
pump, because one has to wonder if what's there will ever work correctly
if he puts it back together.

Yup. Already been done.

All three of those motors have already been replaced, so, they've
just been sitting outside, as spare parts or whatever
(hate to throw away something that _might_ be useful some day).

Also, a dual speed pump would likely pay for itself with a
reasonable payback period, depending on his cost of electricity

I never understood dual-speed motors. All the filter pump does
is filter. All the cleaner pump does is feed the pop ups in the
bottom of the pool.

Why would I ever want to change the speed of that?

Because the amount of electricity used by the pump
goes up by like the cube of the flow rate. So, you can
run the pump for twice as long at half the rate, move the
same amount of water, and use a lot less electricity.
The only pump you could make dual speed would be
the filter pump.




And, if I do want a slower speed, why didn't they make the
motors at the desired speed in the first place?

Because the motors cost a little more, you have to run
one more wire, need an addional switch, electricity used
to be a lot less expensive, etc. But now I
understand that in some states, there are laws
requiring the use of dual or variable speed for new
installations.

On Wed, 1 May 2013 23:21:10 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Wed, 01 May 2013 15:05:31 -0700 Ashton Crusher wrote:

What in the world is being "controlled" besides the two pumps and that
requires all that wiring????

I have no idea if that's a lot of wires for a controller or not.

But to answer your question, it seems to control:
1. Three single-speed 220V pumps (filter, cleaner, spa jets)
2. Two 24V Jandy valves (solar:gas heating & spaool filtering)
3. One gas-fired heater (for spa & pool heating)
4. Two sets of underwater lights (in the pool & spa)

That's about it (I think).

I would think that's a pretty normal setup - so your question about
"all that wiring" is surprising to me (but I don't know any other pool).

Here's the picture of the wiring again (so you don't have to look it up):
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12829143.jpg

I've got two pumps, one for the spa and the other handles the pool and
cleaner together. Just one time clock to turn the pool pump on and
off. The spa heater is turned on manually and the valves moved to
"spa position" manually. Light is turned on and off manually.

I guess your's is fully automated, hence teh complexity. Not sure I'd
want that level of complexity. In fact, I don't even want the pool or
spa anymore! I wish they could be easily and cheaply put in storage.

On 5/2/2013 1:51 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 2 May 2013 17:53:57 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

BTW, tonight I hope to assemble everything so I'm agonizing
over where exactly to put the two pumps.


Some place so you won't stumbled over them and poke your eye out

One question I have is about this silly looking red valve:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/.../12834912.jpg]

... a PVC ball valve, red is not important.

When the ball is closed, as your valve is, it is perpendicular to the
pipe. When open, the handle points parallel to the pipe.

If one side is not connected then it must be a drain....


maybe used to bleed air from the pump?

On Thu, 02 May 2013 15:02:18 -0700, chaniarts
wrote:

On 5/2/2013 1:51 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 2 May 2013 17:53:57 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

BTW, tonight I hope to assemble everything so I'm agonizing
over where exactly to put the two pumps.


Some place so you won't stumbled over them and poke your eye out

One question I have is about this silly looking red valve:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/.../12834912.jpg]

... a PVC ball valve, red is not important.

When the ball is closed, as your valve is, it is perpendicular to the
pipe. When open, the handle points parallel to the pipe.

If one side is not connected then it must be a drain....


maybe used to bleed air from the pump?

That or too purge and prime the pump (for his old pumps)?

.... but his Sta-Rite pumps are self-priming types.

On May 2, 6:02*pm, chaniarts wrote:
On 5/2/2013 1:51 PM, Oren wrote:





On Thu, 2 May 2013 17:53:57 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

BTW, tonight I hope to assemble everything so I'm agonizing
over where exactly to put the two pumps.

Some place so you won't stumbled over them and poke your eye out

One question I have is about this silly looking red valve:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/.../12834912.jpg]

... a PVC ball valve, red is not important.

When the ball is closed, as your valve is, it is perpendicular to the
pipe. *When open, the handle points parallel to the pipe.

If one side is not connected then it must be a drain....

maybe used to bleed air from the pump?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

All that's needed for that is a valve at the top of the filter
tank. You want it there because that's the high point of
the equipment, where the air will be.

On May 2, 7:39*pm, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 02 May 2013 15:02:18 -0700, chaniarts





wrote:
On 5/2/2013 1:51 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 2 May 2013 17:53:57 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

BTW, tonight I hope to assemble everything so I'm agonizing
over where exactly to put the two pumps.

Some place so you won't stumbled over them and poke your eye out

One question I have is about this silly looking red valve:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/.../12834912.jpg]

... a PVC ball valve, red is not important.

When the ball is closed, as your valve is, it is perpendicular to the
pipe. *When open, the handle points parallel to the pipe.

If one side is not connected then it must be a drain....

maybe used to bleed air from the pump?

That or too purge and prime the pump (for his old pumps)?

... but his Sta-Rite pumps are self-priming types.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

To purge the air there should be a valve at the top of
his filter tank. That's where you want it because that's
the high point in the equipment.

It could be to prime the pump, but I haven't seen one
done like that. You have the strainer basket as an easy
opening to do that and it's already there. Even with
self-priming pumps, if it's completely dry, like the
beginning of the season, etc, I'll prime it. But trying
to shoot water into the end of that valve instead of
just using the strainer basket doesn't make sense
to me. If you have to prime it, you'd think it would be
a good opportunity to open and check the basket too.

On Fri, 03 May 2013 05:56:53 -0700, wrote:

To purge the air there should be a valve at the top of his filter tank.
Yup.

It could be to prime the pump, but I haven't seen one done like that.
These pumps are 8 feet below water level; so, priming isn't a problem!

trying to shoot water into the end of that valve instead of
just using the strainer basket doesn't make sense to me.
I agree.

By way of experiment, I removed the plug at the bottom of the filter,
with all the pool Jandy valves in their normal (open) position; and
the water gurgled out for a few minutes.

Then I opened the red valve; and the water flushed out much smoother
and faster as shown in this photo below:


If that's all it does, I guess it's worth it - but - I might put a
more functional threaded fitting on the end of the valve.

Of course, my biggest problem, besides being too scared to rip stuff
up, is that I keep ripping stuff up, such that a small leak becomes
a major repair by creeping inelegance!

On May 3, 10:42*am, Danny D wrote:
On Fri, 03 May 2013 05:56:53 -0700, wrote:
To purge the air there should be a valve at the top of his filter tank.

Yup.

It could be to prime the pump, but I haven't seen one done like that.

These pumps are 8 feet below water level; so, priming isn't a problem!

trying to shoot water into the end of that valve instead of
just using the strainer basket doesn't make sense to me.

I agree.

By way of experiment, I removed the plug at the bottom of the filter,
with all the pool Jandy valves in their normal (open) position; and
the water gurgled out for a few minutes.

Then I opened the red valve; and the water flushed out much smoother
and faster as shown in this photo below:


If that's all it does, I guess it's worth it - but - I might put a
more functional threaded fitting on the end of the valve.

Isn't there a valve that can be opened on top of the filter tank?
The ones I've seen all have it right on top of the tank and then
the pressure gauge screws into it. It's a twist type. If you
haven't ever used the other valve, why not get rid of it?
It's too low for an air release and too high for a drain.

On Fri, 3 May 2013 08:04:56 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On May 3, 10:42*am, Danny D wrote:
On Fri, 03 May 2013 05:56:53 -0700, wrote:

link fixed

http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12840907/img/12840907.jpg

If that's all it does, I guess it's worth it - but - I might put a
more functional threaded fitting on the end of the valve.

Isn't there a valve that can be opened on top of the filter tank?
The ones I've seen all have it right on top of the tank and then
the pressure gauge screws into it. It's a twist type. If you
haven't ever used the other valve, why not get rid of it?
It's too low for an air release and too high for a drain.


Come to think about it, my old Stay-Rite pump had a hose bib where his
ball valve is. 3/4" thread screwed into the pipe. Never found the
reason for it other that it *might* have been for back washing of the
filter. But there was no way to do that. The filters were cartridge
type and not a sand filter.

My solar pipes have a hose bib too. This is for draining the solar
in winter (never used it either).

On Fri, 03 May 2013 08:04:56 -0700, wrote:

Isn't there a valve that can be opened on top of the filter tank?

Yup. It's not for draining though - it's for letting out the air.

It's too low for an air release and too high for a drain.
Yup.

At the moment, scope creep is gonna kill me, as I'm now seriously
contemplating removing the "ion exchange chamber" (or whatever
it is) that is on the outlet of the filter itself.

This is the "Aquatech AQTCG35 29135Q" cartridge, apparently suited
to 25,000 gallon to 35,000 gallon pools:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843562.jpg

This virtually empty cylinder is smack dab in the middle of the
outgoing line of the pool filter:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843573.jpg

When I open the thing up, it's basically an empty chamber with
an orange "restrictor" in the outlet at the very bottom.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843578.jpg

I'm not sure of the purpose of the orange "restrictor"; but the
water flow is clearly outward from the filter as shown he
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843580.jpg

Being curious, I removed the "restrictor" as shown below:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843582.jpg

Advice requested. Taking care not to let scope creep kill me,
do you think I should just remove the entire doohicky for a
smoother water flow out of the filter?
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843575.jpg

On Fri, 03 May 2013 08:39:31 -0700, Oren wrote:

Never found the reason for it other that it *might* have been for back
washing of the filter. But there was no way to do that. The filters were
cartridge type and not a sand filter.

What you're describing is exactly what I have.

After I drained the filter by opening the red valve and the plug
at the bottom of the filter, I decided, what the heck, and I
opened up the filter:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843788.jpg

Yuck! Pretty dirty! I *could* claim ignorance of how that happened,
but, I hadn't mentioned that the pool was green only a week ago.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843790.jpg

So, I guess scope creep has just added a filter cleaning with
the pressure washer to the mix of things I need to do:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843789.jpg

On Fri, 03 May 2013 08:39:31 -0700, Oren wrote:

My solar pipes have a hose bib too. This is for draining the solar in
winter (never used it either).

My 13 solar panels all leak like a sieve, even after draining with
the faucet bib for the winter.

Plugging up those myriad leaks (scores of them every year!) is next on
my pool maintenance list! I have to order the plugs from McMaster Carr
(hundreds of them, since it takes 4 plugs per leak).

But I'll wait 'till I get the pump plumbing in place to tackle
the solar panels (which are about 15 feet below the pool waterline
so I just can't possibly drain them without disconnecting them
totally).

So my _next_ project is to add a disconnect coupling to those solar
panels - but don't get me started!

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 19:23:54 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

UPDATE:
Yesterday, in the hour left between arriving home and mosquito darkness
I tried to cut the pipes using my new pipe-cutting tool, but it broke
on the very first attempt:


So I hacksawed the outlet of the filter pump at the elbow:


And, I hacksawed the inlet of the filter pump at the midway point:


Removing the wires from the wiring conduit elbow was problematic:


Crazily twisted and cracked 10AWG wires are always the result:


By nightfall, I finally had the room to repair the leaks and relocate
both the filter pump and the cleaner pump and figure out where to put
the pipes so that I can more easily maintain the equipment yet not to
introduce too many additional bends (some day I'll convert the whole
thing to curves):


Surprise!

When I sliced the pipe at the Jandy valve of the filter pump a bit
closer, I realize there was thick (schedule 200?) gray pipe:


I called the pool guys who said that their service men use that
gray schedule 200 because it's thicker and stronger than PVC schedule
40.

Do you know if there is any truth to that statement which implies I
shouldn't use white PVC schedule 40 at the pumps because it heats up
and is more brittle than the gray thicker schedule 200???

Anyway, this thick gray schedule 200 pipe should probably be bored out;
but I don't have the boring tool:


I called up Jandy (now Zodiac) at 800-822-7933x1x5x, and spoke to their
technical support, and pointed them to this thread. They said they don't
sell the boring tool, and, that the 2.5" coupling should work.

Back at the now-removed pump, I was worried the filter pump inlet
threaded coupling would be glued in from all the repairs - but it spun
out easily with an oil filter wrench, of all things:


Here you can see all the caulk and pipe dope in the world was really
useless because none of it penetrated to the threads themselves:


However, it can be seen that there certainly was teflon tape used in the
original fittings:


And, now I'm ready to put it all back together in a leak-free yet
maintenance friendly way:


The only major removal decision left is:
- Should I remove the Nature2 bactericidal cartridge contraption?

PS: Do the img tags help or hurt?
(I feel badly you have to click on so many links.)

On Fri, 3 May 2013 20:34:21 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

PS: Do the img tags help or hurt?
(I feel badly you have to click on so many links.)

....stop using it. The links are not hot. I'm not going to fix them,
just to look.

You know the routine, already.

Try again.

On Fri, 3 May 2013 19:32:08 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Fri, 03 May 2013 08:04:56 -0700, wrote:

Isn't there a valve that can be opened on top of the filter tank?

Yup. It's not for draining though - it's for letting out the air.

Um, for both actually. Pressure is released and water will flow faster
from the drain.

The thumb screw vent (+O-ring) on top is for the purpose. (RTM)

Try pulling that dome off the filter housing, under pressure - it may
poke ye eye out under pressure.

On Fri, 03 May 2013 14:17:00 -0700, Oren wrote:
Try again.

UPDATE (without IMG tags):

Yesterday, in the hour left between arriving home and mosquito darkness
I tried to cut the pipes using my new pipe-cutting tool, but it broke
on the very first attempt:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843166.jpg

So I hacksawed the outlet of the filter pump at the elbow:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843168.jpg

And, I hacksawed the inlet of the filter pump at the midway point:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843170.jpg

Removing the wires from the wiring conduit elbow was problematic:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843171.jpg

Crazily twisted and cracked 10AWG wires are always the result:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843173.jpg

By nightfall, I finally had the room to repair the leaks and relocate
both the filter pump and the cleaner pump and figure out where to put
the pipes so that I can more easily maintain the equipment yet not to
introduce too many additional bends (some day I'll convert the whole
thing to curves):
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843176.jpg

Surprise!

When I sliced the pipe at the Jandy valve of the filter pump a bit
closer, I realize there was thick (schedule 200?) gray pipe:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843178.jpg

I called the pool guys who said that their service men use that
gray schedule 200 because it's thicker and stronger than PVC schedule
40.

Do you know if there is any truth to that statement which implies I
shouldn't use white PVC schedule 40 at the pumps because it heats up
and is more brittle than the gray thicker schedule 200???

Anyway, this thick gray schedule 200 pipe should probably be bored out;
but I don't have the boring tool:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843179.jpg

I called up Jandy (now Zodiac) at 800-822-7933x1x5, and spoke to their
technical support, and pointed them to this thread. They said they don't
sell the boring tool, and, that the 2.5" coupling should work.

Back at the now-removed pump, I was worried the filter pump inlet
threaded coupling would be glued in from all the repairs - but it spun
out easily with an oil filter wrench, of all things:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843181.jpg

Here you can see all the caulk and pipe dope in the world was really
useless because none of it penetrated to the threads themselves:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843182.jpg

However, it can be seen that there certainly was teflon tape used in the
original fittings:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843184.jpg

And, now I'm ready to put it all back together in a leak-free yet
maintenance friendly way:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843185.jpg

I hope ... (I've never done this before) ...