There is no doubt my filter & cleaner pool pumps are both leaking copiously
at the inlet as shown below (mostly when the pumps are off):
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765654.jpg

Up until now, I've been trying the "miracle in a tube" solution - but it's
really not working to plug and glue and stop up the leaks.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765714.jpg

The problem is that the plumbing is pressed fitting to fitting, with 7 Jandy
valves all pressed together, within a foot with nary a pipe in between:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765681.jpg

Is there a magic fitting that I can slip into the inlet that will fix this
incessant leak without having to replace the pumps & Jandy valves?

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 19:23:54 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

There is no doubt my filter & cleaner pool pumps are both leaking copiously
at the inlet as shown below (mostly when the pumps are off):
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765654.jpg

Up until now, I've been trying the "miracle in a tube" solution - but it's
really not working to plug and glue and stop up the leaks.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765714.jpg

The problem is that the plumbing is pressed fitting to fitting, with 7 Jandy
valves all pressed together, within a foot with nary a pipe in between:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765681.jpg

Is there a magic fitting that I can slip into the inlet that will fix this
incessant leak without having to replace the pumps & Jandy valves?

Is this a Hayward unit?

I suspect it is a threaded slip PVC connector and NOT "pressed" into
the leaf strainer. Check a unit at the pool store for threads
inside...

Looks like:

http://www.thepondoutlet.com/shop/images/99144.jpg

The fix it to cut it off and re-do the pipe.

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 12:48:23 -0700 Oren wrote:

Is this a Hayward unit?

I'm sorry for forgetting to mention the pump brand.
They're both Sta-Rite Max-e-Glas II pumps.

I had replaced this fitting on the OUTLET side:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12766530.jpg

So, maybe, just maybe, there's a similar threaded fitting
on the leaking inlet side?

On Apr 23, 5:38*pm, "Danny D." wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 12:48:23 -0700 Oren wrote:

Is this a Hayward unit?

I'm sorry for forgetting to mention the pump brand.
They're both Sta-Rite Max-e-Glas II pumps.

I had replaced this fitting on the OUTLET side:
*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12766530.jpg

So, maybe, just maybe, there's a similar threaded fitting
on the leaking inlet side?

That's probably what's there, ie it's threaded. Assuming the basket
strainer itself is not cracked at the threads, then you could cut the
pipe and put on a new slip to male threaded adaptor. But the other
problem you have is that as you pointed out, they packed fitting to
fitting to valves etc, without even an inch of pipe to work with.
To get it apart and back together, you may have to sacrifice some
valves or other components. Not clear from the pic exactly how
to approach it. But when putting it back together, as long as you
have room to the right of the pump, I'd move the pump over by
6 to 8" so that you have some pipe there to make future repairs
easy. That is what should have been done in the first place. With
some pipe you can just cut the pipe, get it apart, use a repair
coupling
to put it back together, etc.

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 15:01:18 -0700 wrote:

But when putting it back together, as long as you
have room to the right of the pump, I'd move the pump over by
6 to 8" so that you have some pipe there to make future repairs
easy. That is what should have been done in the first place.

If I end up cutting the fittings, I _will_ move the pumps back
a foot or two as shown in this photo (yellow arrows):
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12766637.jpg

The problem is saving the Jandy valves & pump by cutting at
the right two spots for each pump.

Here's a large picture showing how closely packed the fittings
are to the filter pump:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12767319.jpg

It sure does NOT look threaded - but it must be. Right?

On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 01:24:24 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Here's a large picture showing how closely packed the fittings
are to the filter pump:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12767319.jpg

It sure does NOT look threaded - but it must be. Right?

You cannot tell, because of all the cruddy patches on the connection.

Buy the way, I'm told Stay-Rite is no longer a player in the pump and
filter world. Pentair and Hayward are now the *major* players. I
replaced my system with a Pentair pump and a Hayward filter. YMMV

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 21:38:43 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 12:48:23 -0700 Oren wrote:

Is this a Hayward unit?

I'm sorry for forgetting to mention the pump brand.
They're both Sta-Rite Max-e-Glas II pumps.

I had replaced this fitting on the OUTLET side:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12766530.jpg

So, maybe, just maybe, there's a similar threaded fitting
on the leaking inlet side?

What trader said. It is possible that there is a crack in the
strainer adjacent the connection. My Stay-Rite filter housing leaked
when running the pump.

Had to have been a crack in the bottom of the housing. No other
obvious reason to leak.

Danny D. wrote:
There is no doubt my filter & cleaner pool pumps are both leaking
copiously at the inlet as shown below (mostly when the pumps are off):
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765654.jpg

Up until now, I've been trying the "miracle in a tube" solution - but
it's really not working to plug and glue and stop up the leaks.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765714.jpg

The problem is that the plumbing is pressed fitting to fitting, with
7 Jandy valves all pressed together, within a foot with nary a pipe
in between:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765681.jpg

Is there a magic fitting that I can slip into the inlet that will fix
this incessant leak without having to replace the pumps & Jandy
valves?

The fittings are probably threaded into the strainer baskets. You need to seal
and re-tighten the threaded fittings.

What I might try to easily solve this problem follows:

1. Find some reinforced rubber or reinforced plastic tubing (hose - 1 1/2 or 2"
I.D.) which could be tightly forced over the ends of the ABS pipe fitting used.
You will need 2 or so inches for each cut you need to make. Also get 2 stainless
hose clamps sized to fit over that tubing for each repair you need to make.

2. Sand smooth the surface of the joint between two fittings, so you can get a
good seal with the tubing later. Then cut the 2 fittings apart at the joint
between them.

3. Replace or seal the threaded fitting. Before screwing the thread into the
strainers, coat the thread with an ABS compatible pipe sealer, then wrap the
coated thread with a few layers of 3/4" teflon tape.

4. Assuming you can flex the replaced and adjacent fitting apart far enough,
pull the adjacent fitting back and slip the 1/2 of the 2" piece of rubber hose
over the replaced fitting, and then slide the adjacent fitting into the other
end of the hose piece.

5. Tighten a hose clamp very snugly onto each end of the hose piece.

Test the repair.

Is it leaking at thread, or is the housing cracked?
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
"Danny D." wrote in message ...
There is no doubt my filter & cleaner pool pumps are both leaking copiously
at the inlet as shown below (mostly when the pumps are off):
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765654.jpg

Up until now, I've been trying the "miracle in a tube" solution - but it's
really not working to plug and glue and stop up the leaks.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765714.jpg

The problem is that the plumbing is pressed fitting to fitting, with 7 Jandy
valves all pressed together, within a foot with nary a pipe in between:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765681.jpg

Is there a magic fitting that I can slip into the inlet that will fix this
incessant leak without having to replace the pumps & Jandy valves?

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 22:28:01 -0400 Stormin Mormon wrote:

Is it leaking at thread, or is the housing cracked?

I don't know. But I think it's coming out at the threads.

On Tuesday, April 23, 2013 12:23:54 PM UTC-7, Danny D. wrote:
There is no doubt my filter & cleaner pool pumps are both leaking copiously

at the inlet as shown below (mostly when the pumps are off):

http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765654.jpg



Up until now, I've been trying the "miracle in a tube" solution - but it's

really not working to plug and glue and stop up the leaks.

http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765714.jpg



The problem is that the plumbing is pressed fitting to fitting, with 7 Jandy

valves all pressed together, within a foot with nary a pipe in between:

http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765681.jpg



Is there a magic fitting that I can slip into the inlet that will fix this

incessant leak without having to replace the pumps & Jandy valves?

“the plumbing is pressed fitting to fitting, with 7 Jandy
valves all pressed together, within a foot with nary a pipe in between”

That is exactly the difference between a technician and a contractor. A contractor only cares about you until he gets paid, a technician makes sure he doesn’t have to come back and re-do the what he just did because he’s employed to maintain the equipment of the company and he wants to get paid the next pay day as well as the one after that.

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 19:23:54 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

There is no doubt my filter & cleaner pool pumps are both leaking copiously
at the inlet as shown below (mostly when the pumps are off):
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765654.jpg

Up until now, I've been trying the "miracle in a tube" solution - but it's
really not working to plug and glue and stop up the leaks.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765714.jpg

The problem is that the plumbing is pressed fitting to fitting, with 7 Jandy
valves all pressed together, within a foot with nary a pipe in between:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12765681.jpg

Is there a magic fitting that I can slip into the inlet that will fix this
incessant leak without having to replace the pumps & Jandy valves?


I'm pretty sure they are threaded. I had pretty much the same problem
with the one that comes out the top. From what I can see in your
pictures you should be able to unbolt the four bolts that hold the
basket part to the pump part and then just unscrew the basket part
from the pipe. You won't be able to do anything to the male end of
the pipe but you can put some non-hardening sealer on the female screw
threads (perhaps permatex #2) in the basket and put it back together.

On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 12:06:04 -0700 Ashton Crusher wrote:

you should be able to unbolt the four bolts that hold the
basket part to the pump part and then just unscrew the basket part
from the pipe.

I hope to get to this on the weekend, after I buy the boring tool.
Thanks for the advice.

Pretty much, I'm positive on all but the Jandy valve problem:

PLAN:
- Move both pumps back about a foot & put unions on both ends
- Wire the electrical to a junction box & rewire the ground

WORRY:
- Jandy valves (I hope to go outside but may have to bore the inside)

On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 21:22:01 +0000 Danny D. wrote:

PLAN:
- Move both pumps back about a foot & put unions on both ends
- Wire the electrical to a junction box & rewire the ground

I'm not sure how to bolt the pumps down into the concrete.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12788555.jpg

I'm thinking I need to pick up a masonry drill bit, and then
cement in a stainless steel threaded rod.

Is that the standard method?

On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 02:12:13 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 21:22:01 +0000 Danny D. wrote:

PLAN:
- Move both pumps back about a foot & put unions on both ends
- Wire the electrical to a junction box & rewire the ground

I'm not sure how to bolt the pumps down into the concrete.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12788555.jpg

I'm thinking I need to pick up a masonry drill bit, and then
cement in a stainless steel threaded rod.

Is that the standard method?

I'd think lead shields and brass or stainless screws/bolts would be a
better idea. You can epoxy the shields in place, if needed. I don't
think I'd want something sticking up from the concrete if you pull the
pump. It looks like that's what you have, though.

On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 00:28:27 -0400 krw wrote:

I'd think lead shields and brass or stainless screws/bolts would be a
better idea. You can epoxy the shields in place, if needed.

Interesting. Thanks for that advice.

I had not even considered bolts down versus studs up.

I'm not sure if there is a difference, other than, as you noted,
the bolts would be removed to leaven nothing if the pumps were
removed.

If stainless-steel bolts down is better than stainless steel
threaded rod up, then I can do that.

What's there is definitely not stainless, as it's all rusted,
so, I would think the availability of stainless at the box stores
would limit my choice anyway.

On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 02:12:13 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 21:22:01 +0000 Danny D. wrote:

PLAN:
- Move both pumps back about a foot & put unions on both ends
- Wire the electrical to a junction box & rewire the ground

I'm not sure how to bolt the pumps down into the concrete.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12788555.jpg

I'm thinking I need to pick up a masonry drill bit, and then
cement in a stainless steel threaded rod.

Is that the standard method?

You don't need to bolt them down, the pipes will have no trouble
keeping everything in place and the lack of bolts will allow things to
move as the slab settles. My pump system is similar to yours, 25
years old, and neither of the pumps was bolted down.

On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 01:24:18 -0700 Ashton Crusher wrote:

You don't need to bolt them down

If that's the case, then that will be easier because I then
have more time to find the threaded rod and masonry bits,
which means it's not the limiting factor.

My limiting factor now is the availability of the boring
tool. Hopefully I'll make progress this weekend to report
back on Monday.

On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 01:24:18 -0700, Ashton Crusher
wrote:


You don't need to bolt them down, the pipes will have no trouble
keeping everything in place and the lack of bolts will allow things to
move as the slab settles. My pump system is similar to yours, 25
years old, and neither of the pumps was bolted down.

+ 1 My fist pump was not bolted / screwed down; nor, is my second
one. It makes sense because doing so would make things more ridged and
perhaps making a fitting crack from vibration at the strainer basket
(oops). A rubber matt can be placed under to pump to dampen any
sound.

Danny D. wrote:
On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 21:22:01 +0000 Danny D. wrote:

PLAN:
- Move both pumps back about a foot & put unions on both ends
- Wire the electrical to a junction box & rewire the ground

I'm not sure how to bolt the pumps down into the concrete.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12788555.jpg

I'm thinking I need to pick up a masonry drill bit, and then
cement in a stainless steel threaded rod.

Is that the standard method?

There are several kinds of concrete attachment bolds that you pound into the
drilled hole. No cement needed.

Danny D. wrote on Fri, 26 Apr 2013 21:22:01 +0000:

- Jandy valves (I hope to go outside but may have to bore the inside)

Would these special repair fittings work on the elbows?
http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?pr...ting-Extenders

On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 14:28:59 +0000 (UTC), Avatar
wrote:

Danny D. wrote on Fri, 26 Apr 2013 21:22:01 +0000:

- Jandy valves (I hope to go outside but may have to bore the inside)

Would these special repair fittings work on the elbows?
http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?pr...ting-Extenders

Great link (saved).

On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 07:52:27 -0700 Oren wrote:
http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?pr...ting-Extenders
Great link (saved).

SATURDAY UPDATE:

After looking in vain at all the big box stores today, I think
I really should strongly consider one of those fittings above
(but I'm not sure which one is the one I need).

In addition to not finding the special fittings, I also
could not find the special 2" boring tools at the big box
stores.

I did pick up a few of all the standard 2 inch couplings
and elbows and pipe though:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12799785.jpg

And, I bought this tool for cutting 2" PVC pipe:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12799786.jpg

And, since I couldn't find the 2-inch boring tool at the box stores,
I made this 2" pipe thread tap:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12799791.jpg

I plan on moving both pumps back, but first, to line up my ducks,
I may need to buy this 2" boring tool:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvcsaver.html
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12799895.png

And/or this special fitting to go OVER the Jandy valve outlet:
http://insertfittings.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=78
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12799954.png

Or, that special 2-inch fitting extender to go INSIDE the Jandy
valve outlet (which already has a 2" pipe glued to it):
http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?pr...ting-Extenders
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12799991.png

In addition, today, at Home Depot, the guy helping me cut down a
2" nipple and then I sawed two crosscuts to make a crude 2" tap,
just in case I end up screwing a coupling into the Jandy valve:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12800014.jpg

Ashton Crusher wrote:

I'm pretty sure they are threaded. I had pretty much the same problem
with the one that comes out the top. From what I can see in your
pictures you should be able to unbolt the four bolts that hold the
basket part to the pump part and then just unscrew the basket part
from the pipe. You won't be able to do anything to the male end of
the pipe but you can put some non-hardening sealer on the female screw
threads (perhaps permatex #2) in the basket and put it back together.

Excellent idea. But i'd use the combination of ABS/PVC compatible joint compound
wrapped with teflon tape.

UPDATE:

No matter how many plumbing or irrigation supply places I visited
in San Jose today, I couldn't find this simple 2.5" to 2" reducer:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814178.png
http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?pr...uples-Reducing

So I picked up a standard 2.5" coupling + a bushing:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814556.jpg

And I cut the 90 degree elbows off the Jandy valve:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814560.jpg

The 2.5" coupler and bushing should fit perfectly:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814562.jpg

I think I'll move the motor back and to the right a bit:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814563.jpg

I put the pump in a vise and easily spun off the inlet fitting:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814565.jpg

I'm not sure if the new bushing takes pipe dope or not?
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814568.jpg

I think I bought the wrong electrical box, because the 1"-to-1/2"
elbow was connected to a one-inch conduit but I seem to have
bought a 3/4" conduit box.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814567.jpg

Tomorrow I should wire it up - but I'm confused about the following:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814564.jpg

Q1: Do we use pipe dope on the pump threads? (What kind?)
Q2: What gauge do you think the electrical wire is?
Q3: If I buy a 1" box, can I hook both pumps to the same box?
(i.e., two conduits in, and two conduits out, each a separate line)
Q4: How do we tie the lines together at the box (wire nuts)?

Note: I've never done 220V wiring before.

On Apr 30, 12:48*am, "Danny D." wrote:
UPDATE:

No matter how many plumbing or irrigation supply places I visited
in San Jose today, I couldn't find this simple 2.5" to 2" reducer:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814178.png
*http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?pr...uples-Reducing

So I picked up a standard 2.5" coupling + a bushing:
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814556.jpg

And I cut the 90 degree elbows off the Jandy valve:
*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814560.jpg

The 2.5" coupler and bushing should fit perfectly:
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814562.jpg

I think I'll move the motor back and to the right a bit:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814563.jpg

I put the pump in a vise and easily spun off the inlet fitting:
*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814565.jpg

I'm not sure if the new bushing takes pipe dope or not?
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814568.jpg

I think I bought the wrong electrical box, because the 1"-to-1/2"
elbow was connected to a one-inch conduit but I seem to have
bought a 3/4" conduit box.
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814567.jpg

Tomorrow I should wire it up - but I'm confused about the following:
*http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814564.jpg

Q1: Do we use pipe dope on the pump threads? (What kind?)

I'd use teflon tape on the threads. That's what I always use,
but I think pipe dope is OK too.

Q2: What gauge do you think the electrical wire is?

You can use 12 gauge. The wire coming out of the motor is
probably smaller than that. The pump only draws about 8
amps.


Q3: If I buy a 1" box, can I hook both pumps to the same box?

I don't know what you mean by 1" box? One that has 1" knockouts?
In any case, you can put all the wiring in one box, provided it's of
sufficient size for the number and size of conductors you're using.
The box you have looks large enough.



(i.e., two conduits in, and two conduits out, each a separate line)
Q4: How do we tie the lines together at the box (wire nuts)?

Yes.



Note: I've never done 220V wiring before.

If it were me, as I said before, I would forget about the added splice
box and just replace the short lengths of liquidtight conduit and wire
back to the timer box with new runs. IMO, it's easier, faster, looks
better, etc. You said the splices would make the motors easier
to remove in the future, but I don't see why. Those existing wires
came right off the pump motor, didn't they?

Good to see the project is going well and you didn't find any
unexpected problems....

On Tue, 30 Apr 2013 05:53:37 -0700 wrote:

Q1: Do we use pipe dope on the pump threads? (What kind?)

I'd use teflon tape on the threads. That's what I always use,
but I think pipe dope is OK too.

I have teflon tape, and these two pipe "dopes":
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12817344.jpg

- The tube says "slow setting"
- The can says "slow dry" & "soft set"

Other than the teflon tape, is there such a thing as
"non setting" pipe dope?

On Tue, 30 Apr 2013 05:53:37 -0700 wrote:

You said the splices would make the motors easier
to remove in the future, but I don't see why.
Those existing wires came right off the pump motor, didn't they?

The entire setup is problematic and verrrrrry frustrating!

Half the time I can't even get to the wires inside the
motor simply because the covers are frozen rusted on!
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12817431.jpg

Here you see my last 3 (failed) attempts at removing the cover!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12818863.jpg

The other half the time, the cover comes off, but that
super frustrating 90 degree 1" to 1/2" elbow requires you to
spin the entire motor just to get the darn thing off!
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12817451.jpg

I'm running off to Home Depot now ... does this look like a
decent supply list for the electrical connections?

A. 3 feet of ½" conduit == currently it's all 1" conduit
B. A straight ½" to ½" fitting == currently it's a ½ to 3/4"
C. 3 feet of 12 AWG stranded copper wire (black, red, and green)
D. A double-wide junction box with ½" holes (mine has 3/4 inch holes)
E. Wire nuts for 23AWG stranded wire (mine are stranded of unknown AWG)

On 4/29/2013 9:48 PM, Danny D. wrote:
UPDATE:

No matter how many plumbing or irrigation supply places I visited
in San Jose today, I couldn't find this simple 2.5" to 2" reducer:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814178.png
http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?pr...uples-Reducing

Did you call Ewing? It's not in their catalog but they might have it.

http://www.ewing1.com/general/ews_locationmap.html?branch=166

On Tue, 30 Apr 2013 06:49:18 -0700 sms wrote:

Did you call Ewing? It's not in their catalog but they might have it.
http://www.ewing1.com/general/ews_locationmap.html?branch=166

Funny you should mention Ewing!

RV Cloud Plumbing Supply, apparently just around the corner from
Ewing, had recommended them yesterday; but I couldn't find their
location while driving based on RV Cloud's directions.

I ended up asking someone on the street, who directed me to Lane
Irrigation instead, apparently only a few hundred yards from
Ewing, where I ended up buying the coupling and bushing.

After reading your message just now, I called Ewing up this morning;
I talked to Paul who says that they have the exact 2.5 inch to 2 inch
coupling that I want, and, it's less than 3 bucks to boot!

Sheeesh!

Now why didn't I listen to you (and Oren) earlier!
I'll head down today to pick them up!

Note: Apparently the one-piece fitting is not "to code" (while the
two-piece coupling + bushing is); but should it matter to me
if they're to code or not?

On Tue, 30 Apr 2013 04:48:11 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

I put the pump in a vise and easily spun off the inlet fitting:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814565.jpg


Looks like Teflon was used. The blue glue seems to be an attempt to
patch the leak.

I don't know the name off hand, but on one of my 2 " PVC pipes has a
thread end ( may come in 4 foot lengths.?)

Sample pic only:
http://www.abwplastics.co.uk/ekmps/shops/abwplastics/images/pvc-barrel-nipple-plain-bsp-threaded-741-p.jpg

Anyway, a blue silicon sealer was placed on the pipe and screwed in.

I'm not sure if the new bushing takes pipe dope or not?
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814568.jpg

Glue the insert inside, cure and then do the pipe.

A pool supply make have a small tube of the silicon sealer I mentioned
( dang if I remember if it was called "BLUE")

On Tue, 30 Apr 2013 07:38:14 -0700 Oren wrote:

Looks like Teflon was used.
The blue glue seems to be an attempt to
patch the leak.

You're totally right because I was the one who tried
the blue stuff a year or two ago to stop the leak.

Needless to say, it didn't work.

Interestingly, the blue PVC glue didn't really stick
at all to the (probably ABS) black pump plastic. It
flaked off easily - and you can see it didn't penetrate
to the fitting threads in this closeup photo which
was taken before I flaked cleaned it off the fitting.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12818331.jpg

I called Sky Blue Pool Supply, who suggested "Plumbers
Silicone" at $7/tube as the pipe dope for the fitting.

Googling for what that really is, I find a confusing
array of plumbers caulk/putty/sealant/grease/silicone terms.
http://www.plumbersputtypro.com/plum...ilicone-caulk/

I called The Pool Guys, in Saratoga, but they weren't open
yet. I'll try Leslie's when they open at 10am but you never
know what you'll get from them.

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 19:23:54 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

UPDATE:
Yesterday, in the hour left between arriving home and mosquito darkness
I tried to cut the pipes using my new pipe-cutting tool, but it broke
on the very first attempt:


So I hacksawed the outlet of the filter pump at the elbow:


And, I hacksawed the inlet of the filter pump at the midway point:


Removing the wires from the wiring conduit elbow was problematic:


Crazily twisted and cracked 10AWG wires are always the result:


By nightfall, I finally had the room to repair the leaks and relocate
both the filter pump and the cleaner pump and figure out where to put
the pipes so that I can more easily maintain the equipment yet not to
introduce too many additional bends (some day I'll convert the whole
thing to curves):


Surprise!

When I sliced the pipe at the Jandy valve of the filter pump a bit
closer, I realize there was thick (schedule 200?) gray pipe:


I called the pool guys who said that their service men use that
gray schedule 200 because it's thicker and stronger than PVC schedule
40.

Do you know if there is any truth to that statement which implies I
shouldn't use white PVC schedule 40 at the pumps because it heats up
and is more brittle than the gray thicker schedule 200???

Anyway, this thick gray schedule 200 pipe should probably be bored out;
but I don't have the boring tool:


I called up Jandy (now Zodiac) at 800-822-7933x1x5x, and spoke to their
technical support, and pointed them to this thread. They said they don't
sell the boring tool, and, that the 2.5" coupling should work.

Back at the now-removed pump, I was worried the filter pump inlet
threaded coupling would be glued in from all the repairs - but it spun
out easily with an oil filter wrench, of all things:


Here you can see all the caulk and pipe dope in the world was really
useless because none of it penetrated to the threads themselves:


However, it can be seen that there certainly was teflon tape used in the
original fittings:


And, now I'm ready to put it all back together in a leak-free yet
maintenance friendly way:


The only major removal decision left is:
- Should I remove the Nature2 bactericidal cartridge contraption?

PS: Do the img tags help or hurt?
(I feel badly you have to click on so many links.)

On Fri, 3 May 2013 20:34:21 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

PS: Do the img tags help or hurt?
(I feel badly you have to click on so many links.)

....stop using it. The links are not hot. I'm not going to fix them,
just to look.

You know the routine, already.

Try again.

On Fri, 03 May 2013 14:17:00 -0700, Oren wrote:
Try again.

UPDATE (without IMG tags):

Yesterday, in the hour left between arriving home and mosquito darkness
I tried to cut the pipes using my new pipe-cutting tool, but it broke
on the very first attempt:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843166.jpg

So I hacksawed the outlet of the filter pump at the elbow:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843168.jpg

And, I hacksawed the inlet of the filter pump at the midway point:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843170.jpg

Removing the wires from the wiring conduit elbow was problematic:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843171.jpg

Crazily twisted and cracked 10AWG wires are always the result:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843173.jpg

By nightfall, I finally had the room to repair the leaks and relocate
both the filter pump and the cleaner pump and figure out where to put
the pipes so that I can more easily maintain the equipment yet not to
introduce too many additional bends (some day I'll convert the whole
thing to curves):
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843176.jpg

Surprise!

When I sliced the pipe at the Jandy valve of the filter pump a bit
closer, I realize there was thick (schedule 200?) gray pipe:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843178.jpg

I called the pool guys who said that their service men use that
gray schedule 200 because it's thicker and stronger than PVC schedule
40.

Do you know if there is any truth to that statement which implies I
shouldn't use white PVC schedule 40 at the pumps because it heats up
and is more brittle than the gray thicker schedule 200???

Anyway, this thick gray schedule 200 pipe should probably be bored out;
but I don't have the boring tool:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843179.jpg

I called up Jandy (now Zodiac) at 800-822-7933x1x5, and spoke to their
technical support, and pointed them to this thread. They said they don't
sell the boring tool, and, that the 2.5" coupling should work.

Back at the now-removed pump, I was worried the filter pump inlet
threaded coupling would be glued in from all the repairs - but it spun
out easily with an oil filter wrench, of all things:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843181.jpg

Here you can see all the caulk and pipe dope in the world was really
useless because none of it penetrated to the threads themselves:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843182.jpg

However, it can be seen that there certainly was teflon tape used in the
original fittings:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843184.jpg

And, now I'm ready to put it all back together in a leak-free yet
maintenance friendly way:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843185.jpg

I hope ... (I've never done this before) ...

On May 3, 9:17*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Fri, 03 May 2013 14:17:00 -0700, Oren wrote:
Try again.

UPDATE (without IMG tags):

Yesterday, in the hour left between arriving home and mosquito darkness
I tried to cut the pipes using my new pipe-cutting tool, but it broke
on the very first attempt:
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843166.jpg

Probably because the old pipe has been sitting outside
for many years and has gotten hard, while new PVC is
softer. I've never used a knife type cutter on 2" or larger
pipe, so don't know how hard it really is. I've always used
a hacksaw for those sizes. But your experience
is a good lesson for all.





So I hacksawed the outlet of the filter pump at the elbow:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843168.jpg

And, I hacksawed the inlet of the filter pump at the midway point:
*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843170.jpg

Removing the wires from the wiring conduit elbow was problematic:
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843171.jpg

Crazily twisted and cracked 10AWG wires are always the result:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843173.jpg

Can't you push/pull out those wires through the elbow one
at a time? If necessary, you could even cut off the terminals
then crimp new ones on later as
long as you have 3/8" or so of extra wire. Looks to me like
you should be able to get those wires out without destroying
them. When you do the re-wiring, leave some extra free wire.

Also, can't tell from the pic, but is it possible that a better
way to wire it would be to bring the wires straight into the
motor behind or on the sides of that terminal block, then
make a u-turn and come back? If you could do that, then
you could have several inches of wire to work with, can straighten
it out, have it go straight back into the conduit, instead of making
that sharp immediate turn to the terminals it now has.




By nightfall, I finally had the room to repair the leaks and relocate
both the filter pump and the cleaner pump and figure out where to put
the pipes so that I can more easily maintain the equipment yet not to
introduce too many additional bends (some day I'll convert the whole
thing to curves):
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843176.jpg

Surprise!

When I sliced the pipe at the Jandy valve of the filter pump a bit
closer, I realize there was thick (schedule 200?) gray pipe:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843178.jpg

I don't know what that is. It looks like a pipe over a bushing
to me, not just one piece of pipe. If it's some kind of thicker
doubled pipe, why would it be only thick right at the valve, and
not where you cut it further back?





I called the pool guys who said that their service men use that
gray schedule 200 because it's thicker and stronger than PVC schedule
40.

Does sched 200 even mate with the fittings you have, ie Jandy
valve? Maybe that's what the doubled up looking thing is, some
adapter to go from one to the other?



Do you know if there is any truth to that statement which implies I
shouldn't use white PVC schedule 40 at the pumps because it heats up
and is more brittle than the gray thicker schedule 200???

Sched 40 is all that I've seen used here in NJ. And apparently
it works, because I haven't heard any horror stories. Are those
pool guys from the company that installed it? If so, we know
they don't know what they're doing....





Anyway, this thick gray schedule 200 pipe should probably be bored out;
but I don't have the boring tool:
*http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843179.jpg

I called up Jandy (now Zodiac) at 800-822-7933x1x5, and spoke to their
technical support, and pointed them to this thread. They said they don't
sell the boring tool, and, that the 2.5" coupling should work.

Back at the now-removed pump, I was worried the filter pump inlet
threaded coupling would be glued in from all the repairs - but it spun
out easily with an oil filter wrench, of all things:http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843181.jpg

Here you can see all the caulk and pipe dope in the world was really
useless because none of it penetrated to the threads themselves:http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843182.jpg

However, it can be seen that there certainly was teflon tape used in the
original fittings:http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843184.jpg

And, now I'm ready to put it all back together in a leak-free yet
maintenance friendly way:http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843185.jpg

I hope ... (I've never done this before) ...

You seem to be doing fine. Carry on....

On Sat, 4 May 2013 06:22:21 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

I tried to cut the pipes using my new pipe-cutting tool, but it broke
on the very first attempt:

http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12843166/img/12843166.jpg

Probably because the old pipe has been sitting outside
for many years and has gotten hard, while new PVC is
softer. I've never used a knife type cutter on 2" or larger
pipe, so don't know how hard it really is. I've always used
a hacksaw for those sizes. But your experience
is a good lesson for all.


+1

I have a small set for 3/4 PVC pipe. Not the best thing in the world.
They often will not cut the pipe square at 90 degree. The blades
torque and bind - cut sideways a bit. It can be worked around, but
still. They work okay on soft PEX.

On Sat, 4 May 2013 01:17:03 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:


So I hacksawed the outlet of the filter pump at the elbow:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843168.jpg

And, I hacksawed the inlet of the filter pump at the midway point:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843170.jpg

Next time cut on the left side, next to the edge of the fitting. No
need to cut there (I see you did cut the partial piece off later.

What is the gadget in front of the saw - the round thing?

When I sliced the pipe at the Jandy valve of the filter pump a bit
closer, I realize there was thick (schedule 200?) gray pipe:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843178.jpg

I recall you had two fittings very close together. You were talking
about a gap or gash or something. I mentioned there may be a sleeve
(?) between the two. Nickel says it is Sch 200?


Here you can see all the caulk and pipe dope in the world was really
useless because none of it penetrated to the threads themselves:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843182.jpg


.... done by the guy that runs with dark horses - LOL

However, it can be seen that there certainly was teflon tape used in the
original fittings:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843184.jpg


Not enough imo. While you have the strainer clean inspect around the
area for small cracks in the housing.

And, now I'm ready to put it all back together in a leak-free yet
maintenance friendly way:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843185.jpg


Before you put the volute back together: inspect the O-ring, impeller,
bushing, seal etc.

If the seal is rusted behind the impeller - replace it now. Chlorine
causes it to rust. The pump shaft will then start to leak.

If all looks swell, put it back together,

I hope ... (I've never done this before) ...

You're on a roll.

Oh. They do make 22.5 & 45 Degree 2" PVC fittings for tight spots.

On Sat, 04 May 2013 09:09:32 -0700, Oren wrote:

What is the gadget in front of the saw - the round thing?

Turns out that is a super duper deluxe thingey!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843573.jpg

I'm told it's supposed to kill bacteria, if you bother
with the $100 super duper fancy special cartridge:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843562.jpg

The problem is that it apparently really isn't needed but
it clutters up the outflow from the pool filter:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843580.jpg

In fact, it even has an ORANGE restrictor, hindering flow:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843578.jpg

So, I just recently dug out that restrictor, and, I'm seriously
contemplating removing the whole thingey, whatever it does:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...0/12843582.jpg

On Sat, 04 May 2013 09:09:32 -0700, Oren wrote:

I recall you had two fittings very close together. You were talking
about a gap or gash or something. I mentioned there may be a sleeve
(?) between the two. Nickel says it is Sch 200?

Yeah, they had a LOT of pipes inside of pipes!

And, they seemed to use a LOT of that thick gray stuff.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12861317.jpg

For example, look here and you see what appears to be a
schedule 200 nipple epoxied onto the end of the pipe, instead
of a standard schedule 40 coupling:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12861318.jpg

I'm going to have to re-use that because Home Depot didn't have
any equivalent end fittings.