Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what appears
to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the *CW inlet to
the HWH*. From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper, from the gadget to the
wall is 1/2 black pipe. The 1/2 pipe goes thru an outside wall, altho I
have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever it was.
I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. Is it safe to just get
rid of this thing? City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have gauges
plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this thing.
--
EA

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what
appears to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the
*CW inlet to the HWH*. From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper,
from the gadget to the wall is 1/2 black pipe. The 1/2 pipe goes
thru an outside wall, altho I have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever
it was. I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. Is it safe to just
get rid of this thing? City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have
gauges plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this
thing.
--
EA

http://www.oconomowocplumbing.com/de...-relief-valve/

City water can be shut off, making the tank a closed system. Then
simply heating cold water can generate enough pressure to pop the
relief valve. I found that out by experience after closing the meter
valve to make a repair.
jsw

On 22/01/2013 10:00 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what
appears to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the
*CW inlet to the HWH*. From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper,
from the gadget to the wall is 1/2 black pipe. The 1/2 pipe goes
thru an outside wall, altho I have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever
it was. I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. Is it safe to just
get rid of this thing? City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have
gauges plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this
thing.
--
EA

http://www.oconomowocplumbing.com/de...-relief-valve/

City water can be shut off, making the tank a closed system. Then
simply heating cold water can generate enough pressure to pop the
relief valve. I found that out by experience after closing the meter
valve to make a repair.
jsw




The relief valve on our HWS cracks every sunny day (solar system), old
gas system used to as well.

Check out the Mythbusters video on what a HWS explosion can do - quite
impressive & destructive even if it is enhanced by the Jamie's.

On Jan 22, 8:31*am, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what appears
to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the *CW inlet to
the HWH*. *From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper, from the gadget to the
wall is 1/2 black pipe. *The 1/2 pipe goes thru an outside wall, altho I
have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever it was.
I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
*It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. *Is it safe to just get
rid of this thing? *City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have gauges
plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this thing.
--
EA

new hot water tanks come with a temp pressure valve pre installed, the
outlet should go to the floor to prevent a scald hazard if someone
happens to be walking by when it operates

On Tuesday, 22 January 2013 09:43:02 UTC-5, bob haller wrote:

new hot water tanks come with a temp pressure valve pre installed, the
outlet should go to the floor to prevent a scald hazard if someone
happens to be walking by when it operates

Some jurisdictions require the pressure relief to be piped outdoors. Sounds like this is what the OP is looking at.

Chip C
Toronto

Yes, that tank and water explosion was a sight
to behold. IIRC they removed the TP valve, and
deliberately blew it up. Took much longer than
they expected.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Dennis" wrote in message
. au...

Check out the Mythbusters video on what a HWS
explosion can do - quite impressive & destructive
even if it is enhanced by the Jamie's.

On 1/22/2013 9:14 AM, Chip C wrote:
On Tuesday, 22 January 2013 09:43:02 UTC-5, bob haller wrote:

new hot water tanks come with a temp pressure valve pre installed, the
outlet should go to the floor to prevent a scald hazard if someone
happens to be walking by when it operates

Some jurisdictions require the pressure relief to be piped outdoors.
Sounds like this is what the OP is looking at.


Nope...PRV is on the side of the tank not on the CW supply line...

--

On Jan 22, 8:31*am, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what appears
to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the *CW inlet to
the HWH*. *From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper, from the gadget to the
wall is 1/2 black pipe. *The 1/2 pipe goes thru an outside wall, altho I
have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever it was.
I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
*It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. *Is it safe to just get
rid of this thing? *City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have gauges
plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this thing.
--
EA

Why do you have a HW heater? Does your WH not make CW hot enough?

On 1/22/2013 10:23 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jan 22, 8:31 am, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what appears
to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the *CW inlet to
the HWH*. From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper, from the gadget to the
wall is 1/2 black pipe. The 1/2 pipe goes thru an outside wall, altho I
have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever it was.
I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. Is it safe to just get
rid of this thing? City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have gauges
plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this thing.
--
EA

Why do you have a HW heater? Does your WH not make CW hot enough?


If you heat hot water, doesn't it boil? So a hot water heater would be a
boiler? ^_^

TDD

On Jan 22, 11:27*am, The Daring Dufas the-daring-du...@stinky-
finger.net wrote:


If you heat hot water, doesn't it boil? So a hot water heater would be a
boiler? ^_^


Why would one heat hot water?

On 1/22/2013 10:31 AM, Thomas wrote:
On Jan 22, 11:27 am, The Daring Dufas the-daring-du...@stinky-
finger.net wrote:


If you heat hot water, doesn't it boil? So a hot water heater would be a
boiler? ^_^


Why would one heat hot water?


To get steam you big silly thing. ^_^

TDD

On Jan 22, 11:27*am, The Daring Dufas the-daring-du...@stinky-
finger.net wrote:
On 1/22/2013 10:23 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On Jan 22, 8:31 am, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what appears
to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the *CW inlet to
the HWH*. *From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper, from the gadget to the
wall is 1/2 black pipe. *The 1/2 pipe goes thru an outside wall, altho I
have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever it was.
I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
* It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. *Is it safe to just get
rid of this thing? *City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have gauges
plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this thing.
--
EA

Why do you have a HW heater? Does your WH not make CW hot enough?

If you heat hot water, doesn't it boil? So a hot water heater would be a
boiler? ^_^

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That would depend on how hot you heat the hot water.

In the average house you probably have an 80 - 90 degree range before
your HWH becomes a boiler, although we need probably need to factor
pressure (and the PRV) into the equation.

On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 08:31:20 -0800 (PST), Thomas
wrote:

On Jan 22, 11:27*am, The Daring Dufas the-daring-du...@stinky-
finger.net wrote:


If you heat hot water, doesn't it boil? So a hot water heater would be a
boiler? ^_^


Why would one heat hot water?

To keep it hot?

On 1/22/2013 11:23 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jan 22, 11:27 am, The Daring Dufas the-daring-du...@stinky-
finger.net wrote:
On 1/22/2013 10:23 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On Jan 22, 8:31 am, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what appears
to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the *CW inlet to
the HWH*. From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper, from the gadget to the
wall is 1/2 black pipe. The 1/2 pipe goes thru an outside wall, altho I
have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever it was.
I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. Is it safe to just get
rid of this thing? City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have gauges
plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this thing.
--
EA

Why do you have a HW heater? Does your WH not make CW hot enough?

If you heat hot water, doesn't it boil? So a hot water heater would be a
boiler? ^_^

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That would depend on how hot you heat the hot water.

In the average house you probably have an 80 - 90 degree range before
your HWH becomes a boiler, although we need probably need to factor
pressure (and the PRV) into the equation.


I remember Myth Busters removing the T&P valve and plugging to hole in
an electric water heater and building a little test house, filling the
heater, turning on the power and watching the thing take off like a
rocket blowing up the little house. ^_^

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbreKn4PoAc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bU-I2ZiML0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGWmONHipVo

TDD

On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 10:16:56 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Yes, that tank and water explosion was a sight
to behold. IIRC they removed the TP valve, and
deliberately blew it up. Took much longer than
they expected.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Dennis" wrote in message
.au...

Check out the Mythbusters video on what a HWS
explosion can do - quite impressive & destructive
even if it is enhanced by the Jamie's.

A friend's boyhood home had a water heater explosion early one Sunday
morning. It lifted all the floor boards from the joists, most of the
joists from the foundation, and the floorboards from the upstairs
floor as well as blowing out all the windows and lifting the roof.
Apparently it took several weeks to get the old farm-house livable
after. Neighbours a few farms away felt the shock as well as hearing
the boom.

On 1/22/2013 10:19 AM, dpb wrote:
On 1/22/2013 9:14 AM, Chip C wrote:
On Tuesday, 22 January 2013 09:43:02 UTC-5, bob haller wrote:

new hot water tanks come with a temp pressure valve pre installed, the
outlet should go to the floor to prevent a scald hazard if someone
happens to be walking by when it operates

Some jurisdictions require the pressure relief to be piped outdoors.
Sounds like this is what the OP is looking at.


Nope...PRV is on the side of the tank not on the CW supply line...

--


A pressure relief valve can be anywhere as long as it can "see" tank
pressure and never be isolated. We have an indirect heater and the valve
sits right on top.

On 1/22/2013 8:31 AM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what appears
to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the *CW inlet to
the HWH*. From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper, from the gadget to the
wall is 1/2 black pipe. The 1/2 pipe goes thru an outside wall, altho I
have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever it was.
I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. Is it safe to just get
rid of this thing? City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have gauges
plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this thing.


My guess is that it is the prolly regulator..

"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Jan 22, 8:31 am, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what
appears
to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the *CW inlet to
the HWH*. From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper, from the gadget to
the
wall is 1/2 black pipe. The 1/2 pipe goes thru an outside wall, altho I
have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever it
was.
I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. Is it safe to just get
rid of this thing? City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have gauges
plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this
thing.
--
EA

new hot water tanks come with a temp pressure valve pre installed, the
outlet should go to the floor to prevent a scald hazard if someone
happens to be walking by when it operates
================================================== =

OK, since my HWH is a Kenmore, it of course has this valve built in to the
heater itself.

Is what Jim was talking about how they did it in the old days?
If so, then I can just remove that piping?

Now I know what those long tubes are for! I guess I should put one on....

--
EA

"George" wrote in message
...
On 1/22/2013 8:31 AM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what
appears
to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the *CW inlet to
the HWH*. From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper, from the gadget to
the
wall is 1/2 black pipe. The 1/2 pipe goes thru an outside wall, altho I
have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever it
was.
I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. Is it safe to just
get
rid of this thing? City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have gauges
plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this
thing.


My guess is that it is the prolly regulator..

That would be "proly".....
--
EA

On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 16:02:55 -0500, George
wrote:

On 1/22/2013 10:19 AM, dpb wrote:
On 1/22/2013 9:14 AM, Chip C wrote:
On Tuesday, 22 January 2013 09:43:02 UTC-5, bob haller wrote:

new hot water tanks come with a temp pressure valve pre installed, the
outlet should go to the floor to prevent a scald hazard if someone
happens to be walking by when it operates

Some jurisdictions require the pressure relief to be piped outdoors.
Sounds like this is what the OP is looking at.


Nope...PRV is on the side of the tank not on the CW supply line...

--


A pressure relief valve can be anywhere as long as it can "see" tank
pressure and never be isolated. We have an indirect heater and the valve
sits right on top.
If it is pressure only, yes. If temp and pressure, it needs to be in
the top (portion) of the rank

On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 16:03:16 -0500, George
wrote:

On 1/22/2013 8:31 AM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what appears
to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the *CW inlet to
the HWH*. From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper, from the gadget to the
wall is 1/2 black pipe. The 1/2 pipe goes thru an outside wall, altho I
have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever it was.
I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. Is it safe to just get
rid of this thing? City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have gauges
plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this thing.


My guess is that it is the prolly regulator..
What is a prolly regulator????

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...

OK, since my HWH is a Kenmore, it of course has this valve built in
to the heater itself.

Is what Jim was talking about how they did it in the old days?
If so, then I can just remove that piping?

Now I know what those long tubes are for! I guess I should put one
on....
--
EA

The old days? I replaced my water heater a year ago.
jsw

Some new fangled safety devices are a good thing?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

A friend's boyhood home had a water heater explosion early one Sunday
morning. It lifted all the floor boards from the joists, most of the
joists from the foundation, and the floorboards from the upstairs
floor as well as blowing out all the windows and lifting the roof.
Apparently it took several weeks to get the old farm-house livable
after. Neighbours a few farms away felt the shock as well as hearing
the boom.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...

OK, since my HWH is a Kenmore, it of course has this valve built in to
the heater itself.

Is what Jim was talking about how they did it in the old days?
If so, then I can just remove that piping?

Now I know what those long tubes are for! I guess I should put one
on....
--
EA

The old days? I replaced my water heater a year ago.

What did you pay? I think I'm on borrowed time...

So you have a relief thingy on the LINE, and not on the heater itself?
--
EA


jsw

On Jan 22, 4:02*pm, George wrote:
On 1/22/2013 10:19 AM, dpb wrote:

On 1/22/2013 9:14 AM, Chip C wrote:
On Tuesday, 22 January 2013 09:43:02 UTC-5, bob haller *wrote:

new hot water tanks come with a temp pressure valve pre installed, the
outlet should go to the floor to prevent a scald hazard if someone
happens to be walking by when it operates

Some jurisdictions require the pressure relief to be piped outdoors.
Sounds like this is what the OP is looking at.

Nope...PRV is on the side of the tank not on the CW supply line...

--

A pressure relief valve can be anywhere as long as it can "see" tank
pressure and never be isolated. We have an indirect heater and the valve
sits right on top.

All the hot water tanks I've ever seen over decades had
a combined temperature and pressue relief valve installed
on the side of the tank itself. EA doesn't say if it has that
in addition to the mystery thing or not.

On Jan 22, 4:46*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 16:03:16 -0500, George
wrote:





On 1/22/2013 8:31 AM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what appears
to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the *CW inlet to
the HWH*. *From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper, from the gadget to the
wall is 1/2 black pipe. *The 1/2 pipe goes thru an outside wall, altho I
have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever it was.
I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
* It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. *Is it safe to just get
rid of this thing? *City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have gauges
plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this thing.

My guess is that it is the prolly regulator..

* What is a prolly regulator????- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That was a joke. Whosssh!

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
The old days? I replaced my water heater a year ago.

What did you pay? I think I'm on borrowed time...

So you have a relief thingy on the LINE, and not on the heater
itself?
EA

$237, plus $33.98 for the flex hose connector kit, in December 2011 at
Lowes. The relief valve is on the side of the tank near the top. The
tank that leaked was installed in 1987. The thermostat is at 120F
which may extend the life of the elements and the tank. When I need
hotter water to scrub pots I heat a teakettle.

"Chip C" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, 22 January 2013 09:43:02 UTC-5, bob haller wrote:

new hot water tanks come with a temp pressure valve pre installed, the
outlet should go to the floor to prevent a scald hazard if someone
happens to be walking by when it operates

Some jurisdictions require the pressure relief to be piped outdoors.
Sounds like this is what the OP is looking at.

Sounds reasonable, esp. before relief valves were integrated into the heater
itself.
Funny, I have TWO of these 1/2" lines going thru the outside wall, the other
proly went to the old old berler. Gas furnace, now.
If it weren't so cold, I'd dig down a bit on the outside of the wall, see if
dirt accumulated over the outlet. Just curious.....
And might come in handy, as I can proly snake wires thru these pipes, to get
power to the outside.
--
EA



Chip C
Toronto

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
The old days? I replaced my water heater a year ago.

Just in case there is some confusion, this apparent pressure relief thingy
is on the cw LINE, not on the tank. My tank has a built-in one, as well, as
I'm pretty sure was mandated by law at least 20 years ago.

So I'm going to scrap the one on the line.


What did you pay? I think I'm on borrowed time...

So you have a relief thingy on the LINE, and not on the heater itself?
EA

$237, plus $33.98 for the flex hose connector kit, in December 2011 at
Lowes. The relief valve is on the side of the tank near the top. The tank
that leaked was installed in 1987. The thermostat is at 120F which may
extend the life of the elements and the tank. When I need hotter water to
scrub pots I heat a teakettle.


That's a great price -- 40-50 gal, I presume.
I got my 50 gal kenmore a bunch of years ago on sale for $160, now I see
them for close to and over $1000!!!
At both Sears, HD.... wtf????
I'll check out Lowes. I really should start preparing for when mine
goes.... it's way overdue....
--
EA

On Jan 22, 6:49*pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message

...

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
The old days? I replaced my water heater a year ago.

Just in case there is some confusion, this apparent pressure relief thingy
is on the cw LINE, not on the tank. *My tank has a built-in one, as well, as
I'm pretty sure was mandated by law at least 20 years ago.

So I'm going to scrap the one on the line.



What did you pay? *I think I'm on borrowed time... *

So you have a relief thingy on the LINE, and not on the heater itself?
EA

$237, plus $33.98 for the flex hose connector kit, in December 2011 at
Lowes. The relief valve is on the side of the tank near the top. The tank
that leaked was installed in 1987. The thermostat is at 120F which may
extend the life of the elements and the tank. When I need hotter water to
scrub pots I heat a teakettle.

That's a great price -- 40-50 gal, I presume.
I got my 50 gal kenmore a bunch of years ago on sale for $160, now I see
them for close to and over $1000!!!
At both Sears, HD.... * wtf????
I'll check out Lowes. *I really should start preparing for when mine
goes.... *it's way overdue....
--
EA





new tanks are more efficent and safer too.....

although electric tanks are 100% efficent less standby losses newer
foam insulation cuts operating expenses dramatically

"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Jan 22, 6:49 pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message

...

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
The old days? I replaced my water heater a year ago.

Just in case there is some confusion, this apparent pressure relief thingy
is on the cw LINE, not on the tank. My tank has a built-in one, as well,
as
I'm pretty sure was mandated by law at least 20 years ago.

So I'm going to scrap the one on the line.



What did you pay? I think I'm on borrowed time...

So you have a relief thingy on the LINE, and not on the heater itself?
EA

$237, plus $33.98 for the flex hose connector kit, in December 2011 at
Lowes. The relief valve is on the side of the tank near the top. The
tank
that leaked was installed in 1987. The thermostat is at 120F which may
extend the life of the elements and the tank. When I need hotter water
to
scrub pots I heat a teakettle.

That's a great price -- 40-50 gal, I presume.
I got my 50 gal kenmore a bunch of years ago on sale for $160, now I see
them for close to and over $1000!!!
At both Sears, HD.... wtf????
I'll check out Lowes. I really should start preparing for when mine
goes.... it's way overdue....
--
EA





new tanks are more efficent and safer too.....

although electric tanks are 100% efficent less standby losses newer
foam insulation cuts operating expenses dramatically
=================================================

I wonder what the bottom line is, cost-wise? Or better yet,
cost-to-own-over-10-years- wise, what with electricity being more expensive,
but then more efficient. There should be boucou tests on this.
Sounds like a good thread.....
I'd consider an electric. But I think the regenerative time of gas is
faster?

Funny, gas seems to predominate in water heaters, electric in clothes
dryers.....
Poss. cuz the H20 combustion product dudn't help the drying process??
--
EA

So you have a relief thingy on the LINE, and not on the heater itself?
--
EA


An overpressure in the tank should pressurize the inflow and outflow too.

In rec.crafts.metalworking Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what appears
to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the *CW inlet to
the HWH*. From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper, from the gadget to the
wall is 1/2 black pipe. The 1/2 pipe goes thru an outside wall, altho I
have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever it was.
I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. Is it safe to just get
rid of this thing? City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have gauges
plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this thing.

it is some sort of weird attempt at a drain line going outside?

"bob haller" wrote in message
news:8a40db29-3d18-4e47-bfdb-new tanks are more efficent and safer
too.....

although electric tanks are 100% efficent less standby losses newer
foam insulation cuts operating expenses dramatically.

I see very little difference between the new foam and the old
fiberglass ones. With add-on blankets both use a bit over 1 KWH per
day, the bill was for 33 KWH last month. Without the blanket the foam
one used 1.5 KWH/day. I didn't record the old one before installing
the blanket. Both pipes are insulated up to the ceiling. I set up a
spreadsheet to extrapolate the daily use from shorter meter reading
intervals so showers and laundry wouldn't interfere.

On Jan 22, 5:31*pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
"bob haller" wrote in message

...
On Jan 22, 6:49 pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:





"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message

...

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
The old days? I replaced my water heater a year ago.

Just in case there is some confusion, this apparent pressure relief thingy
is on the cw LINE, not on the tank. My tank has a built-in one, as well,
as
I'm pretty sure was mandated by law at least 20 years ago.

So I'm going to scrap the one on the line.

What did you pay? I think I'm on borrowed time...

So you have a relief thingy on the LINE, and not on the heater itself?
EA

$237, plus $33.98 for the flex hose connector kit, in December 2011 at
Lowes. The relief valve is on the side of the tank near the top. The
tank
that leaked was installed in 1987. The thermostat is at 120F which may
extend the life of the elements and the tank. When I need hotter water
to
scrub pots I heat a teakettle.

That's a great price -- 40-50 gal, I presume.
I got my 50 gal kenmore a bunch of years ago on sale for $160, now I see
them for close to and over $1000!!!
At both Sears, HD.... wtf????
I'll check out Lowes. I really should start preparing for when mine
goes.... it's way overdue....
--
EA

new tanks are more efficent and safer too.....

although electric tanks are 100% efficent less standby losses newer
foam insulation cuts operating expenses dramatically
=================================================

I wonder what the bottom line is, cost-wise? *Or better yet,
cost-to-own-over-10-years- wise, what with electricity being more expensive,
but then more efficient. *There should be boucou tests on this.
Sounds like a good thread..... *
I'd consider an electric. *But I think the regenerative time of gas is
faster?

Funny, gas seems to predominate in water heaters, electric in clothes
dryers.....
Poss. cuz the H20 combustion product dudn't help the drying process??
--
EA- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Depends on where you are, gas is popular where gas is cheap, the
folks had gas water heating and a gas clothes dryer for 40 years, most
of the neighbors had the same. Newer parts of town had houses that
were all-electric, there was that scare back in the '70s where we were
running out of NG and they stopped permits for it.

Electricity is going to go nowhere but up, what with power plants
being shut down per Big O's war on coal. Unless he puts the skids on
natural gas exploration, gas will continue to be the cheaper option
along the pipelines.

Stan

On Jan 22, 5:31*am, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Ahm semi-re-plumbing the lines to the HW heater, and I noticed what appears
to be some sort of vent/pressure relief ditty coming off the *CW inlet to
the HWH*. *From the CW pipe to this gadget is copper, from the gadget to the
wall is 1/2 black pipe. *The 1/2 pipe goes thru an outside wall, altho I
have yet to find anything outside!

I'd be hardpressed to imagine that this thing still works, whatever it was.
I'm sure it's 25++ years old.
*It's not an anti-water hammering device, afaict. *Is it safe to just get
rid of this thing? *City water pressure is barely 60 psi, I have gauges
plumbed into a couple of lines, very little variation.
It would make my life a lot easier if I could ignore/get rid of this thing.
--
EA

How about a photo?

In NYS, there is a public ed campaign going on,
about the "dangers of fracking". From what I can
figure, in PA, they do a LOT of hydro fracturing
to get the natural gas out of the ground, and no
one seems to think it's dangerous. In NYS, I used
to see a lot of signs with the circle slash "/FRACK/".
I suspect that's part of the admin's war on business
and war on cheap, effective products.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stanley Schaefer" wrote in message
...

Depends on where you are, gas is popular where gas is cheap, the
folks had gas water heating and a gas clothes dryer for 40 years, most
of the neighbors had the same. Newer parts of town had houses that
were all-electric, there was that scare back in the '70s where we were
running out of NG and they stopped permits for it.

Electricity is going to go nowhere but up, what with power plants
being shut down per Big O's war on coal. Unless he puts the skids on
natural gas exploration, gas will continue to be the cheaper option
along the pipelines.

Stan

On Jan 22, 7:31*pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
"bob haller" wrote in message

...
On Jan 22, 6:49 pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:





"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message

...

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
The old days? I replaced my water heater a year ago.

Just in case there is some confusion, this apparent pressure relief thingy
is on the cw LINE, not on the tank. My tank has a built-in one, as well,
as
I'm pretty sure was mandated by law at least 20 years ago.

So I'm going to scrap the one on the line.

What did you pay? I think I'm on borrowed time...

So you have a relief thingy on the LINE, and not on the heater itself?
EA

$237, plus $33.98 for the flex hose connector kit, in December 2011 at
Lowes. The relief valve is on the side of the tank near the top. The
tank
that leaked was installed in 1987. The thermostat is at 120F which may
extend the life of the elements and the tank. When I need hotter water
to
scrub pots I heat a teakettle.

That's a great price -- 40-50 gal, I presume.
I got my 50 gal kenmore a bunch of years ago on sale for $160, now I see
them for close to and over $1000!!!
At both Sears, HD.... wtf????
I'll check out Lowes. I really should start preparing for when mine
goes.... it's way overdue....
--
EA

new tanks are more efficent and safer too.....

although electric tanks are 100% efficent less standby losses newer
foam insulation cuts operating expenses dramatically
=================================================

I wonder what the bottom line is, cost-wise? *Or better yet,
cost-to-own-over-10-years- wise, what with electricity being more expensive,
but then more efficient. *There should be boucou tests on this.
Sounds like a good thread..... *
I'd consider an electric. *But I think the regenerative time of gas is
faster?

Funny, gas seems to predominate in water heaters, electric in clothes
dryers.....
Poss. cuz the H20 combustion product dudn't help the drying process??
--
EA

natural gas prices are dropping thanks to domestic drilling, and even
before that electric was far more expensive to heat water or dry
clothes... plus recovery time of electric water heaters is slower.

On 1/22/2013 6:08 PM, wrote:
On Jan 22, 4:02 pm, George wrote:
On 1/22/2013 10:19 AM, dpb wrote:

On 1/22/2013 9:14 AM, Chip C wrote:
On Tuesday, 22 January 2013 09:43:02 UTC-5, bob haller wrote:

new hot water tanks come with a temp pressure valve pre installed, the
outlet should go to the floor to prevent a scald hazard if someone
happens to be walking by when it operates

Some jurisdictions require the pressure relief to be piped outdoors.
Sounds like this is what the OP is looking at.

Nope...PRV is on the side of the tank not on the CW supply line...

--

A pressure relief valve can be anywhere as long as it can "see" tank
pressure and never be isolated. We have an indirect heater and the valve
sits right on top.

All the hot water tanks I've ever seen over decades had
a combined temperature and pressue relief valve installed
on the side of the tank itself. EA doesn't say if it has that
in addition to the mystery thing or not.


Our temperature and pressure valve sits on top and it is a contemporary
model boilermate. But since you haven't seen one it probably doesn't exist.

http://www.amtrol.com/boilermate.htm

On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 19:33:11 -0500, Stumpy wrote:

So you have a relief thingy on the LINE, and not on the heater itself?
-- EA


An overpressure in the tank should pressurize the inflow and outflow too.

Especially if the water supply has a working pressure regulator on it -
I'm still putting off
adding an expansion-tank to the cold wqater supply at the HWH.