"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Jan 22, 6:49 pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message

...

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
The old days? I replaced my water heater a year ago.

Just in case there is some confusion, this apparent pressure relief thingy
is on the cw LINE, not on the tank. My tank has a built-in one, as well,
as
I'm pretty sure was mandated by law at least 20 years ago.

So I'm going to scrap the one on the line.



What did you pay? I think I'm on borrowed time...

So you have a relief thingy on the LINE, and not on the heater itself?
EA

$237, plus $33.98 for the flex hose connector kit, in December 2011 at
Lowes. The relief valve is on the side of the tank near the top. The
tank
that leaked was installed in 1987. The thermostat is at 120F which may
extend the life of the elements and the tank. When I need hotter water
to
scrub pots I heat a teakettle.

That's a great price -- 40-50 gal, I presume.
I got my 50 gal kenmore a bunch of years ago on sale for $160, now I see
them for close to and over $1000!!!
At both Sears, HD.... wtf????
I'll check out Lowes. I really should start preparing for when mine
goes.... it's way overdue....
--
EA





new tanks are more efficent and safer too.....

although electric tanks are 100% efficent less standby losses newer
foam insulation cuts operating expenses dramatically
=================================================

I wonder what the bottom line is, cost-wise? Or better yet,
cost-to-own-over-10-years- wise, what with electricity being more expensive,
but then more efficient. There should be boucou tests on this.
Sounds like a good thread.....
I'd consider an electric. But I think the regenerative time of gas is
faster?

Funny, gas seems to predominate in water heaters, electric in clothes
dryers.....
Poss. cuz the H20 combustion product dudn't help the drying process??
--
EA