Going to try to explain the cuts. Looked on Google, obviously I'm not using
the correct search terms.

Here's what I have. A couple of cuts each being 30 degrees. I have a
sliding compound miter box. The trim is 4.5" wide, but they need cut long
ways. Like I have to set the end of trim in long ways instead of cross
ways.

Anyone know of a better way to cut these pieces? They're each about 10'
long, so I could use some pointers how not to screw them up.

Thanks

On Fri, 5 Oct 2012 17:30:21 -0400, "Larry Grugan"
wrote:

Going to try to explain the cuts. Looked on Google, obviously I'm not using
the correct search terms.

Here's what I have. A couple of cuts each being 30 degrees. I have a
sliding compound miter box. The trim is 4.5" wide, but they need cut long
ways. Like I have to set the end of trim in long ways instead of cross
ways.

Anyone know of a better way to cut these pieces? They're each about 10'
long, so I could use some pointers how not to screw them up.

Thanks


I'm not exactingly sure of what you're describing. I'm thinking you
need to make a 60 degree cut to make which may require setting up some
sort of temporary support and/or fence.

First, make test cuts on some scrap so you don't screw up the good
stuff.

Second, the cut may end up being 59-1/2 degrees or something other
than 60 degrees because nothing in the house is exactly what it should
be. Another reason for using scrap.

Third, once you're sure of the angle, cut it and install it.

"Gordon Shumway" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 5 Oct 2012 17:30:21 -0400, "Larry Grugan"
wrote:

Going to try to explain the cuts. Looked on Google, obviously I'm not
using
the correct search terms.

Here's what I have. A couple of cuts each being 30 degrees. I have a
sliding compound miter box. The trim is 4.5" wide, but they need cut long
ways. Like I have to set the end of trim in long ways instead of cross
ways.

Anyone know of a better way to cut these pieces? They're each about 10'
long, so I could use some pointers how not to screw them up.

Thanks


I'm not exactingly sure of what you're describing. I'm thinking you
need to make a 60 degree cut to make which may require setting up some
sort of temporary support and/or fence.

First, make test cuts on some scrap so you don't screw up the good
stuff.

Second, the cut may end up being 59-1/2 degrees or something other
than 60 degrees because nothing in the house is exactly what it should
be. Another reason for using scrap.

Third, once you're sure of the angle, cut it and install it.

I need set end grain into the saw, not cross cut it. It will be a loooong
cut.

"Larry Grugan" wrote in
:


"Gordon Shumway" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 5 Oct 2012 17:30:21 -0400, "Larry Grugan"
wrote:

Going to try to explain the cuts. Looked on Google, obviously I'm not
using
the correct search terms.

Here's what I have. A couple of cuts each being 30 degrees. I have a
sliding compound miter box. The trim is 4.5" wide, but they need cut
long ways. Like I have to set the end of trim in long ways instead of
cross ways.

Anyone know of a better way to cut these pieces? They're each about
10' long, so I could use some pointers how not to screw them up.

Thanks


I'm not exactingly sure of what you're describing. I'm thinking you
need to make a 60 degree cut to make which may require setting up
some sort of temporary support and/or fence.

First, make test cuts on some scrap so you don't screw up the good
stuff.

Second, the cut may end up being 59-1/2 degrees or something other
than 60 degrees because nothing in the house is exactly what it
should be. Another reason for using scrap.

Third, once you're sure of the angle, cut it and install it.

I need set end grain into the saw, not cross cut it. It will be a
loooong cut.




What you're trying to do is dangerous (yea, we all do summa dat).

How many cuts? If not too many, a jig with even a hand saw. Low human
damage rate.

Gordon Shumway wrote in
news
On Fri, 5 Oct 2012 17:30:21 -0400, "Larry Grugan"
wrote:

Going to try to explain the cuts. Looked on Google, obviously I'm not
using the correct search terms.

Here's what I have. A couple of cuts each being 30 degrees. I have a
sliding compound miter box. The trim is 4.5" wide, but they need cut
long ways. Like I have to set the end of trim in long ways instead of
cross ways.

Anyone know of a better way to cut these pieces? They're each about
10' long, so I could use some pointers how not to screw them up.

Thanks


I'm not exactingly sure of what you're describing. I'm thinking you
need to make a 60 degree cut to make which may require setting up some
sort of temporary support and/or fence.

First, make test cuts on some scrap so you don't screw up the good
stuff.

Second, the cut may end up being 59-1/2 degrees or something other
than 60 degrees because nothing in the house is exactly what it should
be.


You can sometimes use a bevel or use a True Angle Protractor. They even have
them at McLowes.

http://www.quintmeasuring.com/index....product_id=124

Scroll down a tad.

Another reason for using scrap.

Yo.



Third, once you're sure of the angle, cut it and install it.

"Red Green" wrote in message
...
"Larry Grugan" wrote in
:


"Gordon Shumway" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 5 Oct 2012 17:30:21 -0400, "Larry Grugan"
wrote:

Going to try to explain the cuts. Looked on Google, obviously I'm not
using
the correct search terms.

Here's what I have. A couple of cuts each being 30 degrees. I have a
sliding compound miter box. The trim is 4.5" wide, but they need cut
long ways. Like I have to set the end of trim in long ways instead of
cross ways.

Anyone know of a better way to cut these pieces? They're each about
10' long, so I could use some pointers how not to screw them up.

Thanks


I'm not exactingly sure of what you're describing. I'm thinking you
need to make a 60 degree cut to make which may require setting up
some sort of temporary support and/or fence.

First, make test cuts on some scrap so you don't screw up the good
stuff.

Second, the cut may end up being 59-1/2 degrees or something other
than 60 degrees because nothing in the house is exactly what it
should be. Another reason for using scrap.

Third, once you're sure of the angle, cut it and install it.

I need set end grain into the saw, not cross cut it. It will be a
loooong cut.




What you're trying to do is dangerous (yea, we all do summa dat).

How many cuts? If not too many, a jig with even a hand saw. Low human
damage rate.

Four cuts. It's cherry trim, don't believe a jig saw would provide the
finish appearance needed. I'm replacing trim, which sits on top of
stringers and meets other trim work. Someone had made the cuts b/4 out of
oak, just don't know how they went about it.

In article ,
"Larry Grugan" wrote:

Going to try to explain the cuts. Looked on Google, obviously I'm not using
the correct search terms.

Here's what I have. A couple of cuts each being 30 degrees. I have a
sliding compound miter box. The trim is 4.5" wide, but they need cut long
ways. Like I have to set the end of trim in long ways instead of cross
ways.

Anyone know of a better way to cut these pieces? They're each about 10'
long, so I could use some pointers how not to screw them up.

Thanks


Taper jig on a table saw would do it.

On Fri, 5 Oct 2012 18:14:37 -0400, "Larry Grugan"
wrote:



I need set end grain into the saw, not cross cut it. It will be a loooong
cut.



Sounds like you need a table saw and possibly a fixture to hold it
safely. If you have a photo or sketch it would be a big help to
understand what you need.

On Oct 5, 4:29*pm, "Larry Grugan" wrote:
Going to try to explain the cuts. Looked on Google, obviously I'm not using
the correct search terms.

Here's what I have. A couple of cuts each being 30 degrees. I have a
sliding compound miter box. The trim is 4.5" wide, but they need cut long
ways. Like I have to set the end of trim in long ways instead of cross
ways.

Anyone know of a better way to cut these pieces? They're each about 10'
long, so I could use some pointers how not to screw them up.

Thanks

sounded like what the OP wanted to do is a rip. use table saw.

On Oct 5, 10:29*pm, "Larry Grugan" wrote:
Going to try to explain the cuts. Looked on Google, obviously I'm not using
the correct search terms.

Here's what I have. A couple of cuts each being 30 degrees. I have a
sliding compound miter box. The trim is 4.5" wide, but they need cut long
ways. Like I have to set the end of trim in long ways instead of cross
ways.

Anyone know of a better way to cut these pieces? They're each about 10'
long, so I could use some pointers how not to screw them up.

Thanks

If one part of the wood is waste, use a plane.

On Fri, 5 Oct 2012 22:58:15 +0000 (UTC), Red Green
wrote:

I need set end grain into the saw, not cross cut it. It will be a
loooong cut.




What you're trying to do is dangerous (yea, we all do summa dat).


He could poke his eye out.

On 10/5/2012 4:30 PM, Larry Grugan wrote:
Going to try to explain the cuts. Looked on Google, obviously I'm not using
the correct search terms.

Here's what I have. A couple of cuts each being 30 degrees. I have a
sliding compound miter box. The trim is 4.5" wide, but they need cut long
ways. Like I have to set the end of trim in long ways instead of cross
ways.

Anyone know of a better way to cut these pieces? They're each about 10'
long, so I could use some pointers how not to screw them up.

Thanks



Larry, it sounds like you may not have every tool that is out there. Be
aware that no saw is capable of these cuts without some jig or aid added
to them. For a one time job you could use a hand saw or a Skil type saw
to cut the boards close and final fit with a plane, belt sander, file,
or sanding block. The cuts are probably longer than your miter saw can
do which is why several are suggesting a table saw, but this would
require making some type of jig or free handing (a common technique, but
NOT recommended for a DIY guy).

If your miter saw looks like it will make the cut, you can cut a scrap
piece at 30*, fasten it to your miter saw table, and use it as the fence
for your piece. and make the cut with the saw set at 90*. Make these
cuts with scrap to test the fit of the angles and work out the safety
issues.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

On Fri, 5 Oct 2012 17:30:21 -0400, "Larry Grugan" wrote:

Going to try to explain the cuts. Looked on Google, obviously I'm not using
the correct search terms.

Here's what I have. A couple of cuts each being 30 degrees. I have a
sliding compound miter box. The trim is 4.5" wide, but they need cut long
ways. Like I have to set the end of trim in long ways instead of cross
ways.

Anyone know of a better way to cut these pieces? They're each about 10'
long, so I could use some pointers how not to screw them up.

A circular saw with a guide rail is probably about the safest (outside a table
saw). I'd use my track saw, but...

"DanG" wrote in message
...
On 10/5/2012 4:30 PM, Larry Grugan wrote:
Going to try to explain the cuts. Looked on Google, obviously I'm not
using
the correct search terms.

Here's what I have. A couple of cuts each being 30 degrees. I have a
sliding compound miter box. The trim is 4.5" wide, but they need cut
long
ways. Like I have to set the end of trim in long ways instead of cross
ways.

Anyone know of a better way to cut these pieces? They're each about 10'
long, so I could use some pointers how not to screw them up.

Thanks



Larry, it sounds like you may not have every tool that is out there. Be
aware that no saw is capable of these cuts without some jig or aid added
to them. For a one time job you could use a hand saw or a Skil type saw
to cut the boards close and final fit with a plane, belt sander, file, or
sanding block. The cuts are probably longer than your miter saw can do
which is why several are suggesting a table saw, but this would require
making some type of jig or free handing (a common technique, but NOT
recommended for a DIY guy).

If your miter saw looks like it will make the cut, you can cut a scrap
piece at 30*, fasten it to your miter saw table, and use it as the fence
for your piece. and make the cut with the saw set at 90*. Make these
cuts with scrap to test the fit of the angles and work out the safety
issues.


Bingo, got em cut. A bit on the scary side, miter barely made it. Used a
coping saw for the 1/8" it couldn't reach.

To get it straight against the fence took some time, clamping in place was
a bit tricky, couldn't clamp on the saw. All in all, cuts came out
perfect, after using scrap for test purposes.

On Oct 8, 10:32*am, "Larry Grugan" wrote:
"DanG" wrote in message

...





On 10/5/2012 4:30 PM, Larry Grugan wrote:
Going to try to explain the cuts. Looked on Google, obviously I'm not
using
the correct search terms.

Here's what I have. A couple of cuts each being 30 degrees. I have a
sliding compound miter box. The trim is 4.5" wide, but they need cut
long
ways. Like I have to set the end of trim in long ways instead of cross
ways.

Anyone know of a better way to cut these pieces? They're each about 10'
long, so I could use some pointers how not to screw them up.

Thanks

Larry, it sounds like you may not have every tool that is out there. *Be
aware that no saw is capable of these cuts without some jig or aid added
to them. *For a one time job you could use a hand saw or a Skil type saw
to cut the boards close and final fit with a plane, belt sander, file, or
sanding block. *The cuts are probably longer than your miter saw can do
which is why several are suggesting a table saw, but this would require
making some type of jig or free handing (a common technique, but NOT
recommended for a DIY guy).

If your miter saw looks like it will make the cut, you can cut a scrap
piece at 30*, fasten it to your miter saw table, and use it as the fence
for your piece. and make the cut with the saw set at 90*. *Make these
cuts with scrap to test the fit of the angles and work out the safety
issues.

Bingo, got em cut. *A bit on the scary side, miter barely made it. Used a
coping saw for the 1/8" it couldn't reach.

To get it straight against the fence took some time, clamping in place was
a bit tricky, couldn't clamp on the saw. *All in all, cuts came out
perfect, after using scrap for test purposes.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Great. A photo of the final pieces would help everyone here
understand what you were trying to explain.