handle of vacuum wand fell over and made small ding in drywall, right
below a light switch - so very obvious.

Reapired by filling with joint compound, sanding flat, and painting
with Dunn-Edwards high quality paint from the original 5 gal paint
container - to garrantee color match. Historically there did not
appear to be any 'primer' used over the drywall and taping, the paint
is the sealer and color, just sprayed on.

Yet, my repair doesn't look good. The finished repair has a 'ring
around it' looks like a water spot on my wife's silk blouse!

Ok, maybe this is a coating problem, so applied a second coat over the
1 1/2 inch diameter repair, and STILL it looks like a water mark. Ok,
third coat, still there!

Close examination, the joint compound in center matches wall, the wall
matches wall but the junction between the two makes for a ring.

Ok, maybe this was caused by sanding too smoothly on the junction. So,
very lightly sanded to rough up and make all the surface uniformly
textured using 120. Paint again, and there's still a ring!

Ok, I give up, exactly HOW am I supposed to patch drywall?

On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 10:39:32 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

Ok, I give up, exactly HOW am I supposed to patch drywall?

The repair has to be larger than the damage. Compound should be
feathered out past the local spot. This avoids the "ring". Build it
up a little at a time for height, but larger in area. As you feather
out from the center the compound should be thinner on the outside
edges. Don't try to fix damage in one try. Take your time with layers
of compound.

You can feel the difference in smoothness.

Works for me.
--

On Aug 13, 2:42*pm, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 10:39:32 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy

wrote:
Ok, I give up, exactly HOW am I supposed to patch drywall?

The repair has to be larger than the damage. *Compound should be
feathered out past the local spot. This avoids the "ring". *Build it
up a little at a time for height, but larger in area. As you feather
out from the center the compound should be thinner on the outside
edges. Don't try to fix damage in one try. *Take your time with layers
of compound.

You can feel the difference in smoothness.

Works for me.
--

I don't understand what went wrong. I've done a lot
of repairs and never had this problem. Sometimes you
can see a difference between the repaired area due
to difference in the paint being old vs new, the sanding,
etc. But I've never run into the "ring" problem. If it
didn't match it was pretty much the whole area.

On Aug 13, 3:35*pm, "
wrote:
On Aug 13, 2:42*pm, Oren wrote:





On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 10:39:32 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy

wrote:
Ok, I give up, exactly HOW am I supposed to patch drywall?

The repair has to be larger than the damage. *Compound should be
feathered out past the local spot. This avoids the "ring". *Build it
up a little at a time for height, but larger in area. As you feather
out from the center the compound should be thinner on the outside
edges. Don't try to fix damage in one try. *Take your time with layers
of compound.

You can feel the difference in smoothness.

Works for me.
--

I don't understand what went wrong. *I've done a lot
of repairs and never had this problem. *Sometimes you
can see a difference between the repaired area due
to difference in the paint being old vs new, the sanding,
etc. *But I've never run into the "ring" problem. *If it
didn't match it was pretty much the whole area.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm guessing that the repair wasn't feathered out far enough to blend
in with the rest of the wall. Build it up high and feather it down
onto the existing wall.

I helped my son with the major part of repairing a hole he punched in
plaster/lath wall and left the finish mudding and painting to him. It
was his first repair and I gotta say the kid's (24) got talent. Even
with a bright light shining on the repair, I can't see any ripples or
shadows.

A huge part of the bathroom ceiling came down in the house he rents
and he's negotiating with the landlord to let him fix it for less than
it would cost a contractor to do it. I'm sure I'll be involved, but if
he wants to learn (and get paid to do it) I'll support him any way I
can. It's an investment. When I get too old (or lazy) to do my own
repairs, I want to know that there's someone with skills to step in
for me. ;-)

On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 12:35:33 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Aug 13, 2:42*pm, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 10:39:32 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy

wrote:
Ok, I give up, exactly HOW am I supposed to patch drywall?

The repair has to be larger than the damage. *Compound should be
feathered out past the local spot. This avoids the "ring". *Build it
up a little at a time for height, but larger in area. As you feather
out from the center the compound should be thinner on the outside
edges. Don't try to fix damage in one try. *Take your time with layers
of compound.

You can feel the difference in smoothness.

Works for me.
--

I don't understand what went wrong. I've done a lot
of repairs and never had this problem. Sometimes you
can see a difference between the repaired area due
to difference in the paint being old vs new, the sanding,
etc. But I've never run into the "ring" problem. If it
didn't match it was pretty much the whole area.

I'm thinking the OP over sanded the area. Easy to do....put it
on...take it off (compound). Repeat and repeat. It happens until the
skill is learned to feather the compound outward and not over sand the
center.

I've seen the "ring" problem doing auto body repair. In that case one
can spray primer and see the imperfections, then add more bondo and
feather further out from the center. Just do not over sand the repair
at the center.

OP can shine a bright light sideways on the wall and see the low
spots.
--

On Aug 13, 3:33*pm, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 12:35:33 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Aug 13, 2:42 pm, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 10:39:32 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy

wrote:
Ok, I give up, exactly HOW am I supposed to patch drywall?

The repair has to be larger than the damage. Compound should be
feathered out past the local spot. This avoids the "ring". Build it
up a little at a time for height, but larger in area. As you feather
out from the center the compound should be thinner on the outside
edges. Don't try to fix damage in one try. Take your time with layers
of compound.

You can feel the difference in smoothness.

Works for me.
--

I don't understand what went wrong. *I've done a lot
of repairs and never had this problem. *Sometimes you
can see a difference between the repaired area due
to difference in the paint being old vs new, the sanding,
etc. *But I've never run into the "ring" problem. *If it
didn't match it was pretty much the whole area.

I'm thinking the OP over sanded the area. Easy to do....put it
on...take it off (compound). Repeat and repeat. It happens until the
skill is learned to feather the compound outward and not over sand the
center.

I've seen the "ring" problem doing auto body repair. *In that case one
can spray primer and see the imperfections, then add more bondo and
feather further out from the center. *Just do not over sand the repair
at the center.

OP can shine a bright light sideways on the wall and see the low
spots.
--- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The sideways bright light is what I always do to make sure I got the
sanding right. It shows up defects in technique very readily!!!!

On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 13:05:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I'm guessing that the repair wasn't feathered out far enough to blend
in with the rest of the wall. Build it up high and feather it down
onto the existing wall.

If the OP is just using sand paper / drywall sanding screen in his
hand it will not be flat. A small block of wood will go a long way to
prevent improper sanding; instead just using paper in hand.
--

On Aug 13, 1:45*pm, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 13:05:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:
I'm guessing that the repair wasn't feathered out far enough to blend
in with the rest of the wall. Build it up high and feather it down
onto the existing wall.

If the OP is just using sand paper / drywall sanding screen in his
hand it will not be flat. *A small block of wood will go a long way to
prevent improper sanding; instead *just using paper in hand.
--

Thanks to all who have answered. I didn't go into a lot of detail,
but this repair is not my first.

The ding was tiny, maybe 1/3 to 1/2 inch big, but the ring is a result
of repair and is more like 1 1/2 to 2 inch diameter.

We're in 20% humidity, so I gently pre-dampen the area so moisture
doesn't get sucked out of the joint compound. I over fill, let dry 7
days. Gently sanded using 120 WITH a very broad block of wood. [I
learned a long time ago to NEVER use a pad] Sanded just until started
topping the surrounding paint. After all, don't want to cut through
the adjacent paint.

Slightly pre-dampen and over filled again, let dry. and again sainded
gently with the block of wood backing. Blind touch feel NO unevenness
- very flat. Side lighting still shows very flat - at that time could
not see the edges that would later create the ring.

Gently wiped area off to remove dust. Then using Tac Rag, gently wiped
area again. Then, painted and huge ring showed up. ??!!

So I thought this paint may need two coats with the first acting as
the sealer. Ok waited 7 days, painted again SAME RING! Out of
frustration I gently sanded the spot WITH a pad to uniformly rough
everything up. Painted again. Well this time ring is less, but still
there. Which was improving the situation more coats, or gently
sanding? Don't care the fifth coat seems to have finally covered over
the 'rign' and it's so minimal hard to find. But, I still see it,
because I know where it's at!

I did this small spot as a test - and failed.
Now I'm working on a much larger area. and the ring appears to be at
the junction between the joint compound and the painted surface. If I
fill more the ring just moves out further to ...you guessed it, where
the junction moved out to!

I'm tempted to use Zinsser (sp?) white zinc sealing primer that is
alcohol based, but years ago I had trouble with that process, again at
the edges of the primer coating. Years ago, filling, priming, painting
ended up making a small visible line show through in the top coat that
completely surrounds the repair [Yes, I'm very picky about the way a
repair looks] I don't want to prime the whole wall to fix a 1 square
foot area.

Is the sandpaper too coarse? Should I be using 220 or finer? on these
final touches?

On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 18:09:33 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:



Is the sandpaper too coarse? Should I be using 220 or finer? on these
final touches?

It's either in your head, you're using junk compound, or junk paint.
What this about letting the compound dry "7 days?"
Don't use compound for deep dents, use Spackle or patching plaster.
Compound should be ready to paint in as little as 10 minutes.
Spackle/patching plaster about an hour per 1/4" depth.
If put on in a thin coat like compound, same 10 minutes as compound.
Rough figures, but close enough..
Only way these "rings" can happen is if the walls are brand new, with
a thin single coat of paint done with a no-nap roller.
Then the patch covered by thin, bad, watery paint.
Even then a 2nd-3rd coat of good paint will cover any "ring".
Overall blending is a different issue.

--
Vic

On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 20:58:25 -0500, Vic Smith wrote:
On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 18:09:33 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:
Is the sandpaper too coarse? Should I be using 220 or finer? on these
final touches?

It's either in your head, you're using junk compound, or junk paint.

Or one of the tools used was contaminated with something.

On Aug 13, 12:39*pm, Robert Macy wrote:
handle of vacuum wand fell over and made small ding in drywall, right
below a light switch - so very obvious.

Reapired by filling with joint compound, sanding flat, and painting
with Dunn-Edwards high quality paint from the original 5 gal paint
container - to garrantee color match. Historically there did not
appear to be any 'primer' used over the drywall and taping, the paint
is the sealer and color, just sprayed on.

Yet, my repair doesn't look good. The finished repair has a 'ring
around it' looks like a water spot on my wife's silk blouse!

Ok, maybe this is a coating problem, so applied a second coat over the
1 1/2 inch diameter repair, and STILL it looks like a water mark. *Ok,
third coat, still there!

Close examination, the joint compound in center matches wall, the wall
matches wall but the junction between the two makes for a ring.

Ok, maybe this was caused by sanding too smoothly on the junction. So,
very lightly sanded to rough up and make all the surface uniformly
textured using 120. *Paint again, and there's still a ring!

Ok, I give up, exactly HOW am I supposed to patch drywall?

I'll bet you didn't use a setting type compound for repair, did you?

Joe

On Aug 14, 12:16*pm, Joe wrote:
On Aug 13, 12:39*pm, Robert Macy wrote:





handle of vacuum wand fell over and made small ding in drywall, right
below a light switch - so very obvious.

Reapired by filling with joint compound, sanding flat, and painting
with Dunn-Edwards high quality paint from the original 5 gal paint
container - to garrantee color match. Historically there did not
appear to be any 'primer' used over the drywall and taping, the paint
is the sealer and color, just sprayed on.

Yet, my repair doesn't look good. The finished repair has a 'ring
around it' looks like a water spot on my wife's silk blouse!

Ok, maybe this is a coating problem, so applied a second coat over the
1 1/2 inch diameter repair, and STILL it looks like a water mark. *Ok,
third coat, still there!

Close examination, the joint compound in center matches wall, the wall
matches wall but the junction between the two makes for a ring.

Ok, maybe this was caused by sanding too smoothly on the junction. So,
very lightly sanded to rough up and make all the surface uniformly
textured using 120. *Paint again, and there's still a ring!

Ok, I give up, exactly HOW am I supposed to patch drywall?

I'll bet you didn't use a setting type compound for repair, did you?

Joe

May have found it. Well, a bit.

Next to the repaired ding on the wall right under the light switch is
a dent in the rounded corner! Workmen going by without paying
attention probably ran their belt into it, or case, or something hard
and dented it. This is a ten foot long metal 1 inch radius rounded
corner that is nailed to each wall to form a right angle corner, but
with these very nice rounded edges. Except as everyone knows edges
are susceptible.

So, I packed joint compoune into the 3/4 inch long by 1/2 inch wide
dent. Waited util turned pure white, and gently sanded off to recreate
the rounded corner. Elapsed time less than 30 minutes. Then I tack
ragged it. and painted over it with the exact same paint form the
exact same container and it dried the first time with an invisible
repair. Good as new!

So what's happening out in the middle? Got me. Out of frustration, I
simply sanded off the large repair under another light switch panel,
tack ragged it, and painted it. Almost disappeared repair, but not
along the bottom edges - where it will show big time! But closer the
first time. so I'm going to try just painting and painting to see if
it disappears after 3 coats, like the first spot did.

Along with this I went around some of the walls and redid poorly done
nail sets and screw sets and one place even had an accidental drill
hole [as in, oops not here, but four inches higher on the wall] done
when they installed the doorbell. EVERYone of these fills were sanded
flush using 120 on a large flat board, tack ragged, and painted,. Not
one had that 'water spot' effect around it. So I wonder why, right
where it's going to show.

I'm using the same sanding paper on the same wood block, the same tach
rag, and the same pail of paint, and didn't matter which cheap bristle
brush I used. It seems my rushed recent repairs all are invisible, and
the slow painstaking one is permanently coming up strange.

On Aug 14, 4:11*pm, Robert Macy wrote:
On Aug 14, 12:16*pm, Joe wrote:



On Aug 13, 12:39*pm, Robert Macy wrote:

handle of vacuum wand fell over and made small ding in drywall, right
below a light switch - so very obvious.

Reapired by filling with joint compound, sanding flat, and painting
with Dunn-Edwards high quality paint from the original 5 gal paint
container - to garrantee color match. Historically there did not
appear to be any 'primer' used over the drywall and taping, the paint
is the sealer and color, just sprayed on.

Yet, my repair doesn't look good. The finished repair has a 'ring
around it' looks like a water spot on my wife's silk blouse!

Ok, maybe this is a coating problem, so applied a second coat over the
1 1/2 inch diameter repair, and STILL it looks like a water mark. *Ok,
third coat, still there!

Close examination, the joint compound in center matches wall, the wall
matches wall but the junction between the two makes for a ring.

Ok, maybe this was caused by sanding too smoothly on the junction. So,
very lightly sanded to rough up and make all the surface uniformly
textured using 120. *Paint again, and there's still a ring!

Ok, I give up, exactly HOW am I supposed to patch drywall?

I'll bet you didn't use a setting type compound for repair, did you?

Joe

May have found it. Well, a bit.

Next to the repaired ding on the wall right under the light switch is
a dent in the rounded corner! Workmen going by without paying
attention probably ran their belt into it, or case, or something hard
and dented it. This is a ten foot long metal 1 inch radius rounded
corner that is nailed to each wall to form a right angle corner, but
with these very nice rounded edges. *Except as everyone knows edges
are susceptible.

So, I packed joint compoune into the 3/4 inch long by 1/2 inch wide
dent. Waited util turned pure white, and gently sanded off to recreate
the rounded corner. Elapsed time less than 30 minutes. *Then I tack
ragged it. and painted over it with the exact same paint form the
exact same container and it dried the first time with an invisible
repair. Good as new!

So what's happening out in the middle? *Got me. Out of frustration, I
simply sanded off the large repair under another light switch panel,
tack ragged it, and painted it. Almost disappeared repair, but not
along the bottom edges - where it will show big time! *But closer the
first time. so I'm going to try just painting and painting to see if
it disappears after 3 coats, like the first spot did.

Along with this I went around some of the walls and redid poorly done
nail sets and screw sets and one place even had an accidental drill
hole [as in, oops not here, but four inches higher on the wall] done
when they installed the doorbell. *EVERYone of these fills were sanded
flush using 120 on a large flat board, tack ragged, and painted,. Not
one had that 'water spot' effect around it. *So I wonder why, right
where it's going to show.

I'm using the same sanding paper on the same wood block, the same tach
rag, and the same pail of paint, and didn't matter which cheap bristle
brush I used. It seems my rushed recent repairs all are invisible, and
the slow painstaking one is permanently coming up strange.

I would suggest using some Kilz or Zinseer spray primer over the
repair and a tiny bit onto the old areas.

Freshly applied & sanded repair can behave differently than "old
work".

The primer step will greatly reduce paint absorption.

cheers
Bob

On Aug 14, 6:20*pm, DD_BobK wrote:
On Aug 14, 4:11*pm, Robert Macy wrote:





On Aug 14, 12:16*pm, Joe wrote:

On Aug 13, 12:39*pm, Robert Macy wrote:

handle of vacuum wand fell over and made small ding in drywall, right
below a light switch - so very obvious.

Reapired by filling with joint compound, sanding flat, and painting
with Dunn-Edwards high quality paint from the original 5 gal paint
container - to garrantee color match. Historically there did not
appear to be any 'primer' used over the drywall and taping, the paint
is the sealer and color, just sprayed on.

Yet, my repair doesn't look good. The finished repair has a 'ring
around it' looks like a water spot on my wife's silk blouse!

Ok, maybe this is a coating problem, so applied a second coat over the
1 1/2 inch diameter repair, and STILL it looks like a water mark. *Ok,
third coat, still there!

Close examination, the joint compound in center matches wall, the wall
matches wall but the junction between the two makes for a ring.

Ok, maybe this was caused by sanding too smoothly on the junction. So,
very lightly sanded to rough up and make all the surface uniformly
textured using 120. *Paint again, and there's still a ring!

Ok, I give up, exactly HOW am I supposed to patch drywall?

I'll bet you didn't use a setting type compound for repair, did you?

Joe

May have found it. Well, a bit.

Next to the repaired ding on the wall right under the light switch is
a dent in the rounded corner! Workmen going by without paying
attention probably ran their belt into it, or case, or something hard
and dented it. This is a ten foot long metal 1 inch radius rounded
corner that is nailed to each wall to form a right angle corner, but
with these very nice rounded edges. *Except as everyone knows edges
are susceptible.

So, I packed joint compoune into the 3/4 inch long by 1/2 inch wide
dent. Waited util turned pure white, and gently sanded off to recreate
the rounded corner. Elapsed time less than 30 minutes. *Then I tack
ragged it. and painted over it with the exact same paint form the
exact same container and it dried the first time with an invisible
repair. Good as new!

So what's happening out in the middle? *Got me. Out of frustration, I
simply sanded off the large repair under another light switch panel,
tack ragged it, and painted it. Almost disappeared repair, but not
along the bottom edges - where it will show big time! *But closer the
first time. so I'm going to try just painting and painting to see if
it disappears after 3 coats, like the first spot did.

Along with this I went around some of the walls and redid poorly done
nail sets and screw sets and one place even had an accidental drill
hole [as in, oops not here, but four inches higher on the wall] done
when they installed the doorbell. *EVERYone of these fills were sanded
flush using 120 on a large flat board, tack ragged, and painted,. Not
one had that 'water spot' effect around it. *So I wonder why, right
where it's going to show.

I'm using the same sanding paper on the same wood block, the same tach
rag, and the same pail of paint, and didn't matter which cheap bristle
brush I used. It seems my rushed recent repairs all are invisible, and
the slow painstaking one is permanently coming up strange.

I would suggest using some Kilz or Zinseer spray primer over the
repair and a tiny bit onto the old areas.

Freshly applied & sanded repair can behave differently than "old
work".

The primer step will greatly reduce paint absorption.

cheers
Bob

agree. I like Zinser(sp?) too. back when I was doing redwood it was
the ONLY coating that prevented burn through.

However, I never got it to feather well at the edges. I could always
see that faint outline. So when I used it I always took all the way to
the edges, which sometimes was a large area.

I just did another nailset and again, perfect. it's flat, it matches,
and even as picky as I am I can't find it. But even after three coats
now under that light switch there's still a slight 'watermark' coming
through. Got me. If the "more keen eye than I" does not notice, I
think I'll quit on this region.

On Tue, 14 Aug 2012 16:11:36 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

So what's happening out in the middle? Got me. Out of frustration, I
simply sanded off the large repair under another light switch panel,
tack ragged it, and painted it. Almost disappeared repair, but not
along the bottom edges - where it will show big time! But closer the
first time. so I'm going to try just painting and painting to see if
it disappears after 3 coats, like the first spot did.

Bad news. That dent is there for the rest of eternity. It will never
go away. It's there just to annoy you and make your life a living hell.
The more you look at it, the more it's going to bother you, until you go
insane. You might consider checking to see if you have good health
insurance and if they cover permanent inpatient care in a mental asylum.
You will soon be there and stay there for the duration of your life.

However, there is a glimpse of hope. You must do two things. First,
you must destroy that goddamn vacuum cleaner that caused the dent. Take
it in both hands and smash it against that wall until it's smashed into
at least 100 pieces. Then sell that house, or just burn it to the
ground. Then move to another house. Be sure the new house has no dents
and is 101% PERFECT. Remember, you can not accept imperfection and you
will only live in a perfect world. Be sure to tell the agent selling
you the new home that you can not live in an imperfect house, and will
go insane if there are any dents, dings, bugs, or other imperfections.

You MUST do this immediately. You're only days away from going insane.
The men in the white jackets are waiting at the entrance of the insane
asylum just for you. They even have your medication ready.

On Aug 15, 12:00*am, wrote:
On Tue, 14 Aug 2012 16:11:36 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy

wrote:
So what's happening out in the middle? *Got me. Out of frustration, I
simply sanded off the large repair under another light switch panel,
tack ragged it, and painted it. Almost disappeared repair, but not
along the bottom edges - where it will show big time! *But closer the
first time. so I'm going to try just painting and painting to see if
it disappears after 3 coats, like the first spot did.

Bad news. *That dent is there for the rest of eternity. *It will never
go away. *It's there just to annoy you and make your life a living hell..
The more you look at it, the more it's going to bother you, until you go
insane. *You might consider checking to see if you have good health
insurance and if they cover permanent inpatient care in a mental asylum.
You will soon be there and stay there for the duration of your life.

However, there is a glimpse of hope. *You must do two things. *First,
you must destroy that goddamn vacuum cleaner that caused the dent. *Take
it in both hands and smash it against that wall until it's smashed into
at least 100 pieces. *Then sell that house, or just burn it to the
ground. *Then move to another house. *Be sure the new house has no dents
and is 101% PERFECT. *Remember, you can not accept imperfection and you
will only live in a perfect world. *Be sure to tell the agent selling
you the new home that you can not live in an imperfect house, and will
go insane if there are any dents, dings, bugs, or other imperfections.

You MUST do this immediately. *You're only days away from going insane.
The men in the white jackets are waiting at the entrance of the insane
asylum just for you. *They even have your medication ready.

ah yes, now, to proceed on a perfect search....

On Aug 14, 7:11*pm, Robert Macy

Along with this I went around some of the walls and redid poorly done
nail sets and screw sets and one place even had an accidental drill
hole [as in, oops not here, but four inches higher on the wall] done
when they installed the doorbell. *EVERYone of these fills were sanded
flush using 120 on a large flat board, tack ragged, and painted,. Not
one had that 'water spot' effect around it. *So I wonder why, right
where it's going to show.

In my experience, unless that paint on the wall is relatively
new, when you get to the point that you're fixing that many
spots, the old paint and the new paint are unlikely to match
without something showing, sometime. In some cases,
it may look OK sometimes, but with the right lighting or
lighting angle the spots usually show. Meaning if
you're to the point of fixing all the imperfections like
nail bumps, screw bumps, etc., might as well just
paint the wall.

On Wed, 15 Aug 2012 08:40:26 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Aug 14, 7:11*pm, Robert Macy

Along with this I went around some of the walls and redid poorly done
nail sets and screw sets and one place even had an accidental drill
hole [as in, oops not here, but four inches higher on the wall] done
when they installed the doorbell. *EVERYone of these fills were sanded
flush using 120 on a large flat board, tack ragged, and painted,. Not
one had that 'water spot' effect around it. *So I wonder why, right
where it's going to show.

In my experience, unless that paint on the wall is relatively
new, when you get to the point that you're fixing that many
spots, the old paint and the new paint are unlikely to match
without something showing, sometime. In some cases,
it may look OK sometimes, but with the right lighting or
lighting angle the spots usually show. Meaning if
you're to the point of fixing all the imperfections like
nail bumps, screw bumps, etc., might as well just
paint the wall.

I've found that this varies a lot, depending on the paint. I've done touch
up with Benjamin Moore paints up to two years after the wall was painted and
it looked good. From different cans, even.

On Aug 15, 8:40*am, "
wrote:
On Aug 14, 7:11*pm, Robert Macy

Along with this I went around some of the walls and redid poorly done
nail sets and screw sets and one place even had an accidental drill
hole [as in, oops not here, but four inches higher on the wall] done
when they installed the doorbell. *EVERYone of these fills were sanded
flush using 120 on a large flat board, tack ragged, and painted,. Not
one had that 'water spot' effect around it. *So I wonder why, right
where it's going to show.

In my experience, unless that paint on the wall is relatively
new, when you get to the point that you're fixing that many
spots, the old paint and the new paint are unlikely to match
without something showing, sometime. *In some cases,
it may look OK sometimes, but with the right lighting or
lighting angle the spots usually show. * Meaning if
you're to the point of fixing all the imperfections like
nail bumps, screw bumps, etc., might as well just
paint the wall.

Am going to do that. But I found out that *if* the repair shows doing
a spot, it shows even after full painting, .

On Aug 15, 1:38*pm, "
wrote:
On Wed, 15 Aug 2012 08:40:26 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Aug 14, 7:11*pm, Robert Macy

Along with this I went around some of the walls and redid poorly done
nail sets and screw sets and one place even had an accidental drill
hole [as in, oops not here, but four inches higher on the wall] done
when they installed the doorbell. *EVERYone of these fills were sanded
flush using 120 on a large flat board, tack ragged, and painted,. Not
one had that 'water spot' effect around it. *So I wonder why, right
where it's going to show.

In my experience, unless that paint on the wall is relatively
new, when you get to the point that you're fixing that many
spots, the old paint and the new paint are unlikely to match
without something showing, sometime. *In some cases,
it may look OK sometimes, but with the right lighting or
lighting angle the spots usually show. * Meaning if
you're to the point of fixing all the imperfections like
nail bumps, screw bumps, etc., might as well just
paint the wall.

I've found that this varies a lot, depending on the paint. * I've done touch
up with Benjamin Moore paints up to two years after the wall was painted and
it looked good. *From different cans, even.

This is Dunn Edwards sprayed on - and probably watered, just about two
years ago. house empty until we moved in. so not a lot of
contamination from humans.

Anybody know anything about the Home Depot Paint? Behr, or whatever?
does that touch up for a while too?

On Wed, 15 Aug 2012 15:32:14 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Aug 15, 1:38*pm, "
wrote:
On Wed, 15 Aug 2012 08:40:26 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Aug 14, 7:11*pm, Robert Macy

Along with this I went around some of the walls and redid poorly done
nail sets and screw sets and one place even had an accidental drill
hole [as in, oops not here, but four inches higher on the wall] done
when they installed the doorbell. *EVERYone of these fills were sanded
flush using 120 on a large flat board, tack ragged, and painted,. Not
one had that 'water spot' effect around it. *So I wonder why, right
where it's going to show.

In my experience, unless that paint on the wall is relatively
new, when you get to the point that you're fixing that many
spots, the old paint and the new paint are unlikely to match
without something showing, sometime. *In some cases,
it may look OK sometimes, but with the right lighting or
lighting angle the spots usually show. * Meaning if
you're to the point of fixing all the imperfections like
nail bumps, screw bumps, etc., might as well just
paint the wall.

I've found that this varies a lot, depending on the paint. * I've done touch
up with Benjamin Moore paints up to two years after the wall was painted and
it looked good. *From different cans, even.

This is Dunn Edwards sprayed on - and probably watered, just about two
years ago. house empty until we moved in. so not a lot of
contamination from humans.

Anybody know anything about the Home Depot Paint? Behr, or whatever?
does that touch up for a while too?

Not going to happen. You'll have to paint.

" wrote in
:

On Wed, 15 Aug 2012 08:40:26 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Aug 14, 7:11*pm, Robert Macy

Along with this I went around some of the walls and redid poorly
done nail sets and screw sets and one place even had an accidental
drill hole [as in, oops not here, but four inches higher on the
wall] done when they installed the doorbell. *EVERYone of these
fills were sanded flush using 120 on a large flat board, tack
ragged, and painted,. Not one had that 'water spot' effect around
it. *So I wonder why, right where it's going to show.

In my experience, unless that paint on the wall is relatively
new, when you get to the point that you're fixing that many
spots, the old paint and the new paint are unlikely to match
without something showing, sometime. In some cases,
it may look OK sometimes, but with the right lighting or
lighting angle the spots usually show. Meaning if
you're to the point of fixing all the imperfections like
nail bumps, screw bumps, etc., might as well just
paint the wall.

I've found that this varies a lot, depending on the paint. I've done
touch up with Benjamin Moore paints up to two years after the wall was
painted and it looked good. From different cans, even.



use of texturizer helps,but you may have to repaint the entire wall to
avoid the "spot effect".

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

On Aug 15, 6:32*pm, Robert Macy wrote:
On Aug 15, 1:38*pm, "





wrote:
On Wed, 15 Aug 2012 08:40:26 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Aug 14, 7:11*pm, Robert Macy

Along with this I went around some of the walls and redid poorly done
nail sets and screw sets and one place even had an accidental drill
hole [as in, oops not here, but four inches higher on the wall] done
when they installed the doorbell. *EVERYone of these fills were sanded
flush using 120 on a large flat board, tack ragged, and painted,. Not
one had that 'water spot' effect around it. *So I wonder why, right
where it's going to show.

In my experience, unless that paint on the wall is relatively
new, when you get to the point that you're fixing that many
spots, the old paint and the new paint are unlikely to match
without something showing, sometime. *In some cases,
it may look OK sometimes, but with the right lighting or
lighting angle the spots usually show. * Meaning if
you're to the point of fixing all the imperfections like
nail bumps, screw bumps, etc., might as well just
paint the wall.

I've found that this varies a lot, depending on the paint. * I've done touch
up with Benjamin Moore paints up to two years after the wall was painted and
it looked good. *From different cans, even.

This is Dunn Edwards sprayed on - and probably watered, just about two
years ago. house empty until we moved in. *so not a lot of
contamination from humans.

The fact that it was sprayed on and now you're
using a roller to touch up could be a factor in
it matching too.
I've seen the pros on TV using a sprayer to get
the paint on fast and then another guy walking
behind with a roller because that gives it a nicer
finish. But I've never seen it done that way in
contruction here. If they are spraying, they just
spray.

On Aug 16, 7:42*am, "
wrote:
On Aug 15, 6:32*pm, Robert Macy wrote:





On Aug 15, 1:38*pm, "

wrote:
On Wed, 15 Aug 2012 08:40:26 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Aug 14, 7:11*pm, Robert Macy

Along with this I went around some of the walls and redid poorly done
nail sets and screw sets and one place even had an accidental drill
hole [as in, oops not here, but four inches higher on the wall] done
when they installed the doorbell. *EVERYone of these fills were sanded
flush using 120 on a large flat board, tack ragged, and painted,. Not
one had that 'water spot' effect around it. *So I wonder why, right
where it's going to show.

In my experience, unless that paint on the wall is relatively
new, when you get to the point that you're fixing that many
spots, the old paint and the new paint are unlikely to match
without something showing, sometime. *In some cases,
it may look OK sometimes, but with the right lighting or
lighting angle the spots usually show. * Meaning if
you're to the point of fixing all the imperfections like
nail bumps, screw bumps, etc., might as well just
paint the wall.

I've found that this varies a lot, depending on the paint. * I've done touch
up with Benjamin Moore paints up to two years after the wall was painted and
it looked good. *From different cans, even.

This is Dunn Edwards sprayed on - and probably watered, just about two
years ago. house empty until we moved in. *so not a lot of
contamination from humans.

The fact that it was sprayed on and now you're
using a roller to touch up could be a factor *in
it matching too.
I've seen the pros on TV using a sprayer to get
the paint on fast and then another guy walking
behind with a roller because that gives it a nicer
finish. *But I've never seen it done that way in
contruction here. *If they are spraying, they just
spray.

I didn't say I used a roller, as a matter of fact I mentioned cheap
bristle brushes.

I found that with enough 'wetting' agent the paint flattens to match
nicely. Or, with 'dry' brush strokes seems to match texture wise.

One repair at eye level on a wall that gets sideways bright/sun the
spot completely can't find! But, I'm STILL fighting underneath that
light switch, even after 5 coats!!!

wrote in
:

On Tue, 14 Aug 2012 16:11:36 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

So what's happening out in the middle? Got me. Out of frustration, I
simply sanded off the large repair under another light switch panel,
tack ragged it, and painted it. Almost disappeared repair, but not
along the bottom edges - where it will show big time! But closer the
first time. so I'm going to try just painting and painting to see if
it disappears after 3 coats, like the first spot did.

Bad news. That dent is there for the rest of eternity. It will never
go away. It's there just to annoy you and make your life a living
hell. The more you look at it, the more it's going to bother you,
until you go insane. You might consider checking to see if you have
good health insurance and if they cover permanent inpatient care in a
mental asylum. You will soon be there and stay there for the duration
of your life.

However, there is a glimpse of hope. You must do two things. First,
you must destroy that goddamn vacuum cleaner that caused the dent.
Take it in both hands and smash it against that wall until it's
smashed into at least 100 pieces. Then sell that house, or just burn
it to the ground. Then move to another house. Be sure the new house
has no dents and is 101% PERFECT. Remember, you can not accept
imperfection and you will only live in a perfect world. Be sure to
tell the agent selling you the new home that you can not live in an
imperfect house, and will go insane if there are any dents, dings,
bugs, or other imperfections.

You MUST do this immediately. You're only days away from going
insane. The men in the white jackets are waiting at the entrance of
the insane asylum just for you. They even have your medication ready.


I was typing that out exactly what you said and was about to hit
send...

On Aug 13, 1:33*pm, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 12:35:33 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Aug 13, 2:42*pm, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 10:39:32 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy

wrote:
Ok, I give up, exactly HOW am I supposed to patch drywall?

The repair has to be larger than the damage. *Compound should be
feathered out past the local spot. This avoids the "ring". *Build it
up a little at a time for height, but larger in area. As you feather
out from the center the compound should be thinner on the outside
edges. Don't try to fix damage in one try. *Take your time with layers
of compound.

You can feel the difference in smoothness.

Works for me.
--

I don't understand what went wrong. *I've done a lot
of repairs and never had this problem. *Sometimes you
can see a difference between the repaired area due
to difference in the paint being old vs new, the sanding,
etc. *But I've never run into the "ring" problem. *If it
didn't match it was pretty much the whole area.

I'm thinking the OP over sanded the area. Easy to do....put it
on...take it off (compound). Repeat and repeat. It happens until the
skill is learned to feather the compound outward and not over sand the
center.

I've seen the "ring" problem doing auto body repair. *In that case one
can spray primer and see the imperfections, then add more bondo and
feather further out from the center. *Just do not over sand the repair
at the center.

OP can shine a bright light sideways on the wall and see the low
spots.
--

finally!!

it is NOW flat looking. Surprisingly, even a slight 'bump' in the
amount of 0.5 to 1 mil which was extremely hard to find caused the
'island' effect. Turns out that a naturally occurring cross light
along the wall brought the pattern out. Using a flashlight didn't.
Feeling the surface almost didn't. But, it was there. after
aggressively sanding with a BLOCK of wood until the the adjacent
surface was also being bitten into; THEN the wall looks flat.

But I appreciate all these answers.