Hi All,


Just wondering if someone can give me a rough estimate for the cost to
install a new garage roof that needs all new plywood and shingles on a
detached garage?? Our 1940 detached garage roof is in pretty bad shape.
When we get rain, water leaks inside, and pieces of wood from the roof
are starting to break apart and fall all over the place inside the
garage. Luckily the beams inside the garage seem to be in good shape,
but the garage will definitely need all new plywood and asphalt
shingles. Going to try to get some estimates over the next few weeks
from some different contractors, but just wondering if the experts here
can give me a few "rough' estimates now?? Also, the garage is 16 x 19 in
size.


Thanks in advance!

In article ,
(MICHELLE H.) wrote:

Hi All,


Just wondering if someone can give me a rough estimate for the cost to
install a new garage roof that needs all new plywood and shingles on a
detached garage?? Our 1940 detached garage roof is in pretty bad shape.
When we get rain, water leaks inside, and pieces of wood from the roof
are starting to break apart and fall all over the place inside the
garage. Luckily the beams inside the garage seem to be in good shape,
but the garage will definitely need all new plywood and asphalt
shingles. Going to try to get some estimates over the next few weeks
from some different contractors, but just wondering if the experts here
can give me a few "rough' estimates now?? Also, the garage is 16 x 19 in
size.

Falcongirl-

I wonder if the rotten wood might make it a dangerous job? From your
description, the roof might not support the weight of a roofer. It may
be necessary to have a general contractor manage the job if an ordinary
roofer can't do it.

Also, the lowest bid is not always the best job. Talk to some of your
friends about their roofing experiences, and if they would recommend
their roofer.

Fred

On Jun 8, 8:25*pm, (MICHELLE H.) wrote:
Hi All,

Just wondering if someone can give me a rough estimate for the cost to
install a new garage roof that needs all new plywood and shingles on a
detached garage?? Our 1940 detached garage roof is in pretty bad shape.
When we get rain, water leaks inside, and pieces of wood from the roof
are starting to break apart and fall all over the place inside the
garage. Luckily the beams inside the garage seem to be in good shape,
but the garage will definitely need all new plywood and asphalt
shingles. Going to try to get some estimates over the next few weeks
from some different contractors, but just wondering if the experts here
can give me a few "rough' estimates now?? Also, the garage is 16 x 19 in
size.

Thanks in advance!

The rafter spacing will dictate the thickness needed for the plywood
decking, and where you live will make a difference. Give us that
information.

Yes, the plywood looks to be pretty rotted and soggy with water. When
standing inside the garage under the roof, you can actually "lift" the
rotted plywood with a broom handle! So no doubt, there is no way someone
can climb up on the roof without falling through.


Also, I forgot to add in my original post that it is a "A-Frame" style
garage, not a flat one. A-Frame garage built in 1940 with the ORIGINAL
roof and shingles on it I believe!!

The wooden rafters in my 1940 A-Frame garage are spaced roughly 2 feet
apart. I live in the New England area.

I bet that whoever wants to do the job will also want to replace the
rafters/beams as well, because while they don't look rotted out, they
are soaking wet from rain water leaking inside the garage. Plus, it's
damp inside the garage, so they must be close to being wet 24/7. And I
doubt that 1940 wood is "pressure treated"??

Might be easier to level the whole thing, and get
a steel building, or pole barn? If you're going that
far, after all.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"MICHELLE H." wrote in message
...
I bet that whoever wants to do the job will also want to replace the
rafters/beams as well, because while they don't look rotted out, they
are soaking wet from rain water leaking inside the garage. Plus, it's
damp inside the garage, so they must be close to being wet 24/7. And I
doubt that 1940 wood is "pressure treated"??

Hi Michelle,

Yes, the plywood looks to be pretty rotted and soggy with water. When
standing inside the garage under the roof, you can actually "lift" the
rotted plywood with a broom handle! So no doubt, there is no way someone
can climb up on the roof without falling through.
Also, I forgot to add in my original post that it is a "A-Frame" style
garage, not a flat one. A-Frame garage built in 1940 with the ORIGINAL
roof and shingles on it I believe!!

If the roof sheathing is that wet and rotten, you can almost guarantee the
underlying rafters have rot as well. You may not be able to see it from
below, but I'm betting the top edge against the sheathing is gone.

If your garage really is an A-Frame, the roof structure is also the wall
structure. If it's rotted, you essentially have none of the original
structure left intact.

It's impossible to tell for sure without being there, of course, but you'll
probably be better off tearing the whole thing down and rebuilding. A small
garage (especially one only 16x19) would not be a major undertaking. Prices
vary from one area to the next, but around here I'm guessing $10-15,000 for
a complete rebuild. But that's just off the top of my head, based on what
it cost to build our own several years ago. For a garage that small, you
might want to look at places like "Tuff Shed" who build kit buildings.

Of course, if you have to tear it down anyway, you might consider
rebuilding the garage a bit larger for two cars (or a larger workshop).
Especially if you aren't able to reuse an existing concrete slab.

Good luck,

Anthony

Thanks for all the great info, I really do appreciate it. Yeah, a few
years ago during a strong Spring thunderstorm, a neighbor on my street
had half of his HUGE "Silver Maple" tree fall on his 1940, 12 x 19
A-Frame wooden garage. Instead of rebuilding a new garage, he opted to
go with a 19 x 21 steel carport from a place called "American Steel
Carports", for around $1,000 bucks. Problem is, he had to remove the old
concrete slab, and have all new concrete poured, because the 1940 code
called for the slab to be 1 foot thick, and the new code calls for the
concrete slab to be 3 feet thick!!!!!

On Sat, 9 Jun 2012 14:03:55 -0400, (MICHELLE H.) wrote:

Thanks for all the great info, I really do appreciate it. Yeah, a few
years ago during a strong Spring thunderstorm, a neighbor on my street
had half of his HUGE "Silver Maple" tree fall on his 1940, 12 x 19
A-Frame wooden garage. Instead of rebuilding a new garage, he opted to
go with a 19 x 21 steel carport from a place called "American Steel
Carports", for around $1,000 bucks. Problem is, he had to remove the old
concrete slab, and have all new concrete poured, because the 1940 code
called for the slab to be 1 foot thick, and the new code calls for the
concrete slab to be 3 feet thick!!!!!

Where is that silliness required?

On Sat, 9 Jun 2012 14:03:55 -0400, (MICHELLE H.)
wrote:

Thanks for all the great info, I really do appreciate it. Yeah, a few
years ago during a strong Spring thunderstorm, a neighbor on my street
had half of his HUGE "Silver Maple" tree fall on his 1940, 12 x 19
A-Frame wooden garage. Instead of rebuilding a new garage, he opted to
go with a 19 x 21 steel carport from a place called "American Steel
Carports", for around $1,000 bucks. Problem is, he had to remove the old
concrete slab, and have all new concrete poured, because the 1940 code
called for the slab to be 1 foot thick, and the new code calls for the
concrete slab to be 3 feet thick!!!!!


I think you have that wrong. Perhaps footings (the perimeter) but
slabs are usually 4" or so.

On Sat, 9 Jun 2012 16:13:41 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

Hi Michelle,

Yes, the plywood looks to be pretty rotted and soggy with water. When
standing inside the garage under the roof, you can actually "lift" the
rotted plywood with a broom handle! So no doubt, there is no way someone
can climb up on the roof without falling through.
Also, I forgot to add in my original post that it is a "A-Frame" style
garage, not a flat one. A-Frame garage built in 1940 with the ORIGINAL
roof and shingles on it I believe!!

If the roof sheathing is that wet and rotten, you can almost guarantee the
underlying rafters have rot as well. You may not be able to see it from
below, but I'm betting the top edge against the sheathing is gone.

If your garage really is an A-Frame, the roof structure is also the wall
structure. If it's rotted, you essentially have none of the original
structure left intact.

It's impossible to tell for sure without being there, of course, but you'll
probably be better off tearing the whole thing down and rebuilding. A small
garage (especially one only 16x19) would not be a major undertaking. Prices
vary from one area to the next, but around here I'm guessing $10-15,000 for
a complete rebuild. But that's just off the top of my head, based on what
it cost to build our own several years ago. For a garage that small, you
might want to look at places like "Tuff Shed" who build kit buildings.

Of course, if you have to tear it down anyway, you might consider
rebuilding the garage a bit larger for two cars (or a larger workshop).
Especially if you aren't able to reuse an existing concrete slab.

Good luck,

Anthony
I believe by "a frame" she means a gable roof, as opposed to a flat
or "shed" (sloped one way) roof.

On Jun 9, 2:20*pm, "
wrote:
On Sat, 9 Jun 2012 14:03:55 -0400, (MICHELLE H.) wrote:
Thanks for all the great info, I really do appreciate it. Yeah, a few
years ago during a strong Spring thunderstorm, a neighbor on my street
had half of his HUGE "Silver Maple" tree fall on his 1940, 12 x 19
A-Frame wooden garage. Instead of rebuilding a new garage, he opted to
go with a 19 x 21 steel carport from a place called "American Steel
Carports", for around $1,000 bucks. Problem is, he had to remove the old
concrete slab, and have all new concrete poured, because the 1940 code
called for the slab to be 1 foot thick, and the new code calls for the
concrete slab to be 3 feet thick!!!!!

Where is that silliness required?

A 3 foot thick slab is not required, however having a slab
on grade which is supported by proper footers at the
perimeter which go below the frost line is, and that in
New England is 3 to 4 feet...

On Jun 9, 10:01*am, (MICHELLE H.) wrote:
I bet that whoever wants to do the job will also want to replace the
rafters/beams as well, because while they don't look rotted out, they
are soaking wet from rain water leaking inside the garage. Plus, it's
damp inside the garage, so they must be close to being wet 24/7. And I
doubt that 1940 wood is "pressure treated"??

Pressure treated wood is only required where
the wooden structural members are designed
to be in a moist location such as in direct
contact with concrete or wood located outside
exposed to the elements...

It does not extend to wood which is exposed
to water due to a lack of proper maintenance
and care of a building envelope...

I would be concerned that there is not enough
of the original structure left intact and that more
than enough of the old structure must be
repaired or replaced such that all of the existing
garage must be brought up to modern code...

In this case get estimates to replace the entire
garage or to tear it down and remove it, as if
you attempt to repair what you have it will only
end up costing you more than having a contractor
come in with a piece of power equipment to
break it up and feed it into a dumpster and start
fresh...

On Sun, 10 Jun 2012 08:15:12 -0700 (PDT), Evan
wrote:

On Jun 9, 2:20*pm, "
wrote:
On Sat, 9 Jun 2012 14:03:55 -0400, (MICHELLE H.) wrote:
Thanks for all the great info, I really do appreciate it. Yeah, a few
years ago during a strong Spring thunderstorm, a neighbor on my street
had half of his HUGE "Silver Maple" tree fall on his 1940, 12 x 19
A-Frame wooden garage. Instead of rebuilding a new garage, he opted to
go with a 19 x 21 steel carport from a place called "American Steel
Carports", for around $1,000 bucks. Problem is, he had to remove the old
concrete slab, and have all new concrete poured, because the 1940 code
called for the slab to be 1 foot thick, and the new code calls for the
concrete slab to be 3 feet thick!!!!!

Where is that silliness required?

A 3 foot thick slab is not required, however having a slab
on grade which is supported by proper footers at the
perimeter which go below the frost line is, and that in
New England is 3 to 4 feet...

Are you MICHELLE?

On Jun 10, 11:24*am, Evan wrote:
On Jun 9, 10:01*am, (MICHELLE H.) wrote:

I bet that whoever wants to do the job will also want to replace the
rafters/beams as well, because while they don't look rotted out, they
are soaking wet from rain water leaking inside the garage. Plus, it's
damp inside the garage, so they must be close to being wet 24/7. And I
doubt that 1940 wood is "pressure treated"??

Pressure treated wood is only required where
the wooden structural members are designed
to be in a moist location such as in direct
contact with concrete or wood located outside
exposed to the elements...

It does not extend to wood which is exposed
to water due to a lack of proper maintenance
and care of a building envelope...

I would be concerned that there is not enough
of the original structure left intact and that more
than enough of the old structure must be
repaired or replaced such that all of the existing
garage must be brought up to modern code...

In this case get estimates to replace the entire
garage or to tear it down and remove it, as if
you attempt to repair what you have it will only
end up costing you more than having a contractor
come in with a piece of power equipment to
break it up and feed it into a dumpster and start
fresh...

around here one day garages put them up fast.

they come and prep the ground and pour the slab with a raised curb, to
avoid the bottom edge of the walls rotting.

once the slab cures in less than a week they come witha truckload of
pre fabricated walls and roof trusses. for larger building a crane is
used.

in one day the garage is assembled on the prepped slab.....

amazing and nice looking too...

OP should price such a option before rebuilding their existing garage,
it might be cheaper

That's approx 3 squa

10 sheets plywood $150
10 bundles shingles $150
Tar paper, nails etc $100

Do one side at a time, 2 days work max

On Jun 12, 2:14*am, Earl wrote:
mark wrote :

That's approx 3 squa

10 sheets plywood $150
10 bundles shingles $150
Tar paper, nails etc *$100

Do one side at a time, 2 days work max

Don't believe the question was for a hill billy roof.

10 sheets plywood $150 whens the last time you priced plywood?

On Jun 12, 7:24*am, bob haller wrote:
On Jun 12, 2:14*am, Earl wrote:

mark wrote :

That's approx 3 squa

10 sheets plywood $150
10 bundles shingles $150
Tar paper, nails etc *$100

Do one side at a time, 2 days work max

Don't believe the question was for a hill billy roof.

10 sheets plywood $150 whens the last time you priced plywood?

He didn't say that they were 4 x 8 sheets.

10 sheets plywood $150 whens the last time you priced plywood?

He didn't say that they were 4 x 8 sheets.

or more than 1/8th inch thick.......

That's approx 3 squa
10 sheets plywood $150
10 bundles shingles $150
Tar paper, nails etc *$100
Do one side at a time, 2 days work max

10 sheets plywood $150 whens the last time you priced plywood?

Mark's estimates weren't too far off, given the limited information
available.

Michelle described the shed as 16'x19'. We don't know the roof pitch, or
the overhangs, but let's assume a gable roof with a typical 6/12 pitch.

6/12 pitch over an 8' span (half the building width) would work out to a
4' rise at the peak. Using Pythagoreans theorem, take 8' squared + 4'
squared, then find the square root for 8.9'. Let's round that to 10' since
we don't know the overhang. I'll also round up the length to 20' since we
don't know the overhang on the ends.

That's 10'x20' feet or 200 sq/feet for each side of the roof, or 400 square
feet for the entire roof. Using my local Home Depot prices that works out
to:

13 sheets plywood ($17.50 for 15/32 CDX, or $10.37 for 7/16 OSB) - $227.50
12 bundles 3-tab shingles ($27 bundle, 3 bundles per square) - $324
1 Roll 15# roofing felt - $21

Round that up to account for nails and other extras the total is
approximately $600. Of course, this assumes Michelle has the tools and
skills to do the work herself. If she has to pay someone to do the work,
she's probably looking at least twice that amount, not counting any
additional labor costs to demo the original roof.

Of course, this is all meaningless if the underlying structure is rotten.
No way to know for sure till the roofing and sheathing are removed, but rot
sounds very likely based on Michelle's original description.

Anthony

Thanks! Thats exactly what I was looking for, some actual prices! Well
"rough/estimated" prices at least! One thing though, those prices you
listed were for the materials. What do you think labor costs would be?


Also, yes you are right! We may do only 1 side at a time, because it's
the right side of the garage roof that leaks worse than the left side.
Yes, the left side leaks as well, but not as bad, only in a couple of
small spots. The right side of the garage has a huge 20 foot high, Pear
tree hanging over it, so this may be why the right side of the garage
roof is worse than the left side!?

We had a 5-10 minute thunderstorm 2 days ago with some heavy downpours,
and after the storm was over, we heard a loud noise come from the
backyard ( where the garage is located ). We went out and looked around,
and found out that the overhang on the right side of the garage roof was
totally in ruins. The whole overhang just gave out, and crashed to the
ground! Rotted wood, shingles, rusted nails, the garage siding
everywhere all over the ground! ****ed off Hornets or Yellow Jackets
flying around everywhere from a huge bees nest inside the overhang! The
overhang must have filled with water, and the rotted wood couldn't hold
the weight any longer and just gave out!?


Does this mean the whole entire roof is next to cave in!? Don't know
whats going to happen to the 1979 Chevy Camaro father/son project car
thats in the garage which currently doesn't run!?


Also, the 2x 4 beams that hold up the plywood are now all broken off
where the overhang was, so now all the 2 x 4 beams are probably going to
have to be replaced as well??

On Jun 12, 10:43*am, HerHusband wrote:
That's approx 3 squa
10 sheets plywood $150
10 bundles shingles $150
Tar paper, nails etc *$100
Do one side at a time, 2 days work max
10 sheets plywood $150 whens the last time you priced plywood?

Mark's estimates weren't too far off, given the limited information
available.

Michelle described the shed as 16'x19'. We don't know the roof pitch, or
the overhangs, but let's assume a gable roof with a typical 6/12 pitch.

6/12 pitch over an 8' span (half the building width) would work out to a
4' rise at the peak. Using Pythagoreans theorem, take 8' squared + 4'
squared, then find the square root for 8.9'. Let's round that to 10' since
we don't know the overhang. I'll also round up the length to 20' since we
don't know the overhang on the ends.

That's 10'x20' feet or 200 sq/feet for each side of the roof, or 400 square
feet for the entire roof. Using my local Home Depot prices that works out
to:

13 sheets plywood ($17.50 for 15/32 CDX, or $10.37 for 7/16 OSB) - $227.50
12 bundles 3-tab shingles ($27 bundle, 3 bundles per square) - $324
1 Roll 15# roofing felt - $21

Round that up to account for nails and other extras the total is
approximately $600. *Of course, this assumes Michelle has the tools and
skills to do the work herself. If she has to pay someone to do the work,
she's probably looking at least twice that amount, not counting any
additional labor costs to demo the original roof.

Of course, this is all meaningless if the underlying structure is rotten.
No way to know for sure till the roofing and sheathing are removed, but rot
sounds very likely based on Michelle's original description.

Anthony

"Mark's estimates weren't too far off, given the limited
information available."

You estimated $600, Mark estimated $400.

That's a 50% increase, which many would consider "far off".

I know we're all just tossing out numbers based on very limited
information, but I think even your numbers are way low.

The cost for sheathing around here is a bit higher than your numbers,
but let's run with yours.

You added ~$27 for extras.

That $27 is going to be eaten up by at least half for drip edge alone
and that's based on the cheap stuff. There's not a lot of room left
for nails, blades, etc. After that there's no room left for tax.

What is the OP going to do with the old roofing material? Probably
going to need a dumpster, don't you think?

As has been said 1000+ times in this group, trying to to get even ball
park figures for these types of jobs over the internet is folly at
best.

Actual on-site estimates are free. The OP should just pick up the
phone, make some calls (at least 3) and get actual numbers based on
her actual needs in her actual location. I'd be willing to bet that
entire $600 that the actual cost of the entire job - without labor -
will be at least 50% more than the $600 when all is said and done.

Rough guess: Double that if the OP is paying for labor.

Thanks for all of the GREAT information, but now that the overhang is
totally gone, and laying on the ground, and the beams are ruined, it
looks like it's going to be even more expensive now.

If the overhang was that bad, it shows you how bad the roof is as well,
but does this mean the walls are probably rotted out as well??

On Jun 12, 12:53*pm, (MICHELLE H.) wrote:
Thanks for all of the GREAT information, but now that the overhang is
totally gone, and laying on the ground, and the beams are ruined, it
looks like it's going to be even more expensive now.

Aren't you going to ask us for a new estimate? ;-)

Seriously...I'm sorry to hear about the continuing degradation of the
structure. Good luck!

Thanks for all of the GREAT information, but now that the overhang is
totally gone, and laying on the ground, and the beams are ruined, it
looks like it's going to be even more expensive now.


why was this building left go so long? the time to replce a roof is
before its leaking badly......

sounds like repairs may cost more than a brand new garage......
sorry......

time to push tow etc project car out from garage before it collapses

yu should of tarped this when the leak only started

Hi Michelle,

those prices you listed were for the materials.
What do you think labor costs would be?

Unfortunately, that's impossible to know from here.

I usually do things myself, so I almost never pay labor costs. But, you
can safely assume the labor is going to cost at least as much as the
materials. With a repair or remodeling project, you're likely looking at
more labor costs than material costs.

the overhang on the right side of the garage roof was totally in ruins.
The whole overhang just gave out, and crashed to the ground!
Rotted wood, shingles, rusted nails, the garage siding everywhere

As I suspected, you have more damage than just roof shingles and
sheathing. You have significant structural failure. With a garage of that
size, it's not even worth the trouble to try salvaging anything. I hate
to be the bearer of bad news, but it sounds like you'll have to tear it
down and start new.

whats going to happen to the 1979 Chevy Camaro father/son project car
thats in the garage which currently doesn't run!?

If you don't push it out of there immediately, it's probably going to be
buried under a pile of rubble.

The overhang must have filled with water, and the rotted wood
couldn't hold the weight any longer and just gave out!?

An overhang is just the part of the roof extending out past the wall.
There shouldn't be anything to "fill with water". You may be thinking of
the gutters (if there are any). Or the roof was so far gone that the wood
was soaking up water like a sponge. Either way, basic maintenance has
been ignored for a very long time.

Keep in mind an overhang usually only extends a foot or so past the wall.
There's practically no weight on it, other than a couple rows of
shingles. Now picture that 15 foot span across the middle of the garage.
If the one foot overhang already collapsed, you can bet the middle is
coming down soon also.

My advice, get anything you value out of that building now. Then knock
it down and start over.

Take care,

Anthony

You estimated $600, Mark estimated $400.
That's a 50% increase, which many would consider "far off".

If we were talking $6000 instead of $4000, then yes, that 50% would be a
significant increase. However, I wouldn't consider an extra $200 a big
difference for a long term investment like a garage.

I know we're all just tossing out numbers based on very limited
information, but I think even your numbers are way low.
The cost for sheathing around here is a bit higher than your numbers

Yep, there are many extras I didn't account for. I pulled my prices off the
Home Depot web site this morning to work through this little 10 minute
thought experiment, but there's no guarantee those prices would be the same
when I got to the store.

What is the OP going to do with the old roofing material?
Probably going to need a dumpster, don't you think?

For a small project like that, I would probably just toss the debris in my
utility trailer and run it to the dump myself. Of course, the dump fees
still cost money that I didn't factor into my rough estimate.

Actual on-site estimates are free. The OP should just pick up the
phone, make some calls (at least 3) and get actual numbers based on
her actual needs in her actual location.

I agree completely!

Anthony

On 12 Jun 2012 06:14:17 GMT, Earl wrote:

mark wrote in :

That's approx 3 squa

10 sheets plywood $150
10 bundles shingles $150
Tar paper, nails etc $100

Do one side at a time, 2 days work max




Don't believe the question was for a hill billy roof.
What makes it a "hill-billy" roof?A proper roof has plywood
sheathing, covered with tar paper, and then shingles. And like putting
your pants on, one side at a time is generally the easiest.

On Tue, 12 Jun 2012 11:34:21 -0400, (MICHELLE H.)
wrote:

We had a 5-10 minute thunderstorm 2 days ago with some heavy downpours,
and after the storm was over, we heard a loud noise come from the
backyard ( where the garage is located ). We went out and looked around,
and found out that the overhang on the right side of the garage roof was
totally in ruins. The whole overhang just gave out, and crashed to the
ground! Rotted wood, shingles, rusted nails, the garage siding
everywhere all over the ground! ****ed off Hornets or Yellow Jackets
flying around everywhere from a huge bees nest inside the overhang! The
overhang must have filled with water, and the rotted wood couldn't hold
the weight any longer and just gave out!?


Does this mean the whole entire roof is next to cave in!? Don't know
whats going to happen to the 1979 Chevy Camaro father/son project car
thats in the garage which currently doesn't run!?


Also, the 2x 4 beams that hold up the plywood are now all broken off
where the overhang was, so now all the 2 x 4 beams are probably going to
have to be replaced as well??
Get the camaro out YESTERDAY!!!
You need more than a roof.

No, there are no gutters on the garage. But we suspect that there was a
hole in the roof where the overhang was, because hornets were always
flying in and out from right above the overhang, so water must have been
getting in there!? And yes, you are correct, all the wood is absorbing
water like a sponge. I went out there today, and climbed up the the step
ladder, and felt around the roof. The roof was all soft, and my hand
almost went right through the roof, WITH EASE! The shingles crumble in
your hands, and you can break the wet wood apart with your bare fingers.
Doesn't look good!

On Jun 12, 7:54*pm, (MICHELLE H.) wrote:
No, there are no gutters on the garage. But we suspect that there was a
hole in the roof where the overhang was, because hornets were always
flying in and out from right above the overhang, so water must have been
getting in there!? And yes, you are correct, all the wood is absorbing
water like a sponge. I went out there today, and climbed up the the step
ladder, and felt around the roof. The roof was all soft, and my hand
almost went right through the roof, WITH EASE! The shingles crumble in
your hands, and you can break the wet wood apart with your bare fingers.

......
Doesn't look good!

Nor will anything inside the garage once the whole thing comes down.

On Jun 12, 7:54*pm, (MICHELLE H.) wrote:
No, there are no gutters on the garage. But we suspect that there was a
hole in the roof where the overhang was, because hornets were always
flying in and out from right above the overhang, so water must have been
getting in there!? And yes, you are correct, all the wood is absorbing
water like a sponge. I went out there today, and climbed up the the step
ladder, and felt around the roof. The roof was all soft, and my hand
almost went right through the roof, WITH EASE! The shingles crumble in
your hands, and you can break the wet wood apart with your bare fingers.
Doesn't look good!

Why do you keep changing the name of this thread?

How about the original DaVinci paintings?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
ladder, and felt around the roof. The roof was all soft, and my hand
almost went right through the roof, WITH EASE! The shingles crumble in
your hands, and you can break the wet wood apart with your bare fingers.


Nor will anything inside the garage once the whole thing comes down.

The project must be dynamic?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Jun 12, 7:54 pm, (MICHELLE H.) wrote:
The roof was all soft, and my hand
almost went right through the roof, WITH EASE! The shingles crumble in
your hands, and you can break the wet wood apart with your bare fingers.
Doesn't look good!

Why do you keep changing the name of this thread?

Ok, enough of this "average cost for a garage roof" messages.......

Lets concentrate on the average cost for EVERYTHING!!!!

Since everything has a price, the average cost for everything is
somewhere between one cent and one million dollars.

Sure, there are those coupons worth 1/100th of one cent, which means
that if you collect one hundred of them you can get a penny (which
always seemed like a fun thing to do), but it also says they have no
cash value. Therefore, you must pay one cent minimum to get anything
and everything.

At the same time, few things cost over one million dollars, excluding
commercial machinery, military equipment, government expenditures, and
the homes of the most wealthy. Therefore, the high limit for most
homeowners (remember, this is alt.home.repair), should be set at one
million dollars.

Knowing this, the next time anyone on here wants a price for anything,
simply tell them that they can expect to pay anywhere from one cent to
one million dollars. You will be correct 99.999999999999% of the time.

Anyone want to know any prices now? I'm ready to assist!!!!
(U.S. Dollars ONLY). If you use another currency, ask your mother
(assuming they have mothers in foreign countries)....

Here is some helpful info:

Roll of duct tape - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Garage roof - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Hammer - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Cookie - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Cost to paint a home - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Installed toilet - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
New home - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Replacement windows - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Microsoft windows - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Sex with a famous model - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Hamburger at McD - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
5lb Box of 16d sinkers - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Tube of silicone caulking - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
12 foot 2x4 - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Pot roast - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Pork and Beans (16 oz can) - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Furnace repair - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
New Chevy truck - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
HDTV - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Motel room for a night - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Gallon of gasoline - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Carpeting for the whole house - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Bag of dog food - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Roll of toilet paper - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Shot and a beer - $0.01 to $1,000,000.00
Sex with the President of the USA - Priceless!!!!

On Tue, 12 Jun 2012 11:34:21 -0400, (MICHELLE H.)
wrote:

We had a 5-10 minute thunderstorm 2 days ago with some heavy downpours,
and after the storm was over, we heard a loud noise come from the
backyard ( where the garage is located ). We went out and looked around,
and found out that the overhang on the right side of the garage roof was
totally in ruins. The whole overhang just gave out, and crashed to the
ground! Rotted wood, shingles, rusted nails, the garage siding
everywhere all over the ground! ****ed off Hornets or Yellow Jackets
flying around everywhere from a huge bees nest inside the overhang! The
overhang must have filled with water, and the rotted wood couldn't hold
the weight any longer and just gave out!?


Does this mean the whole entire roof is next to cave in!? Don't know
whats going to happen to the 1979 Chevy Camaro father/son project car
thats in the garage which currently doesn't run!?


Also, the 2x 4 beams that hold up the plywood are now all broken off
where the overhang was, so now all the 2 x 4 beams are probably going to
have to be replaced as well??

How to repair this garage, step by step.

1. Remove valuable car and relocate it far away from garage.
2. Purchase a case of dynamite
3. Place dynamite in all 4 corners of garage
4. Wire dynamite to an ignitor as stated in the directions.
5. Turn on video camera and point it toward the garage.
6. Stand back, WAY BACK, and push the switch on the ignitor.
7. Enjoy the explosion.
8. Drink some beer to celebrate
9. Pick up all debris and haul it to dump.
10. Hire a company to build a new garage.

(optional) Post video on youtube.com

Note: If dynamite is not allowed in your neighborhood, replace steps 2
thru 7 with a bulldozer, wrecking ball, and dump truck. You can begin
drinking the beer as soon as the wrecking crew arrives, and you can skip
step 9, and go right to step 10.

Finally, Step 11 STOP asking for prices on newsgroups and put your
telephone to work calling local contractors. -OR- Learn how to use
carpentry tools and get to work. More rain will be coming, the next
storm could collapse the whole garage......

Then again, it might not be as bad as it seems.....
Before demolishing the garage, you might have a professional look at it.
Maybe you can get by just replacing the entire roof, and save the walls.
Without seeing it closeup, no one on the internet can determine the
proper fix for this. Get several estimates, and hire the guy who owns
the most expensive hammer, or has the most chrome on his pickup truck.
Or else you can always have your wife rate the men for sex-appeal, and
hire the one she would like to sleep with the most!!!
Remember, SEX SELLS !!!!