Last time I had my septic tank emptied it cost about £80. Is this
still the 'average' price?


How long is a piece of string?

Seriously though much of the cost depends on how much the local water
authority charges for the discharge in their sewer. Mine, in the Wessex
Water area, cost me £105 last autumn.

Peter Crosland

Last time I had my septic tank emptied it cost about £80. Is this
still the 'average' price?


Thanks

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 19:28:19 +0100, "Peter Crosland"
wrote:

Last time I had my septic tank emptied it cost about £80. Is this
still the 'average' price?


How long is a piece of string?

Seriously though much of the cost depends on how much the local water
authority charges for the discharge in their sewer. Mine, in the Wessex
Water area, cost me £105 last autumn.

Peter Crosland


Good point about the piece of string analogy. :-)

To be honest I didn't think that septic tanks were supposed to need
emptying (I have a 'two tank' arrangement which I assume is par for
the course, ie solids AND water go into one tank then when the level
is at a certain height the liquid drains into the second tank and then
into the soakaway).

But ever since I moved into this property a few years ago I find the
tank needs emptying about once every 12 to 18 months - I know when it
needs doing as the level in the 'sewer' system (that the toilet, bath,
etc drain into on the way to the tank) gets higher and the solids and
water inlet pipe to the first tank gets blocked every few days as the
'water' isn't flowing out as well as it used to. Empty the tanks and
all is well for the next 12 to 18 months.

jamma-plusser wrote:
Last time I had my septic tank emptied it cost about £80. Is this
still the 'average' price?


Thanks

Up to £100 this year here. Plus a bit of tank looking at.

jamma-plusser wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 19:28:19 +0100, "Peter Crosland"
wrote:

Last time I had my septic tank emptied it cost about £80. Is this
still the 'average' price?

How long is a piece of string?

Seriously though much of the cost depends on how much the local water
authority charges for the discharge in their sewer. Mine, in the Wessex
Water area, cost me £105 last autumn.

Peter Crosland


Good point about the piece of string analogy. :-)

To be honest I didn't think that septic tanks were supposed to need
emptying (I have a 'two tank' arrangement which I assume is par for
the course, ie solids AND water go into one tank then when the level
is at a certain height the liquid drains into the second tank and then
into the soakaway).

But ever since I moved into this property a few years ago I find the
tank needs emptying about once every 12 to 18 months - I know when it
needs doing as the level in the 'sewer' system (that the toilet, bath,
etc drain into on the way to the tank) gets higher and the solids and
water inlet pipe to the first tank gets blocked every few days as the
'water' isn't flowing out as well as it used to. Empty the tanks and
all is well for the next 12 to 18 months.

Mmm. THEY say once a year. Mine- biodisc - does about 4-5 years usually.


If the solid build up is a lot, then its not digesting stuff. Throw in
a dead rat etc to get the biologicals up, and refrain from TOO much
caustic soda. etc.

Last time I had my septic tank emptied it cost about £80. Is this
still the 'average' price?


How long is a piece of string?

Seriously though much of the cost depends on how much the local water
authority charges for the discharge in their sewer. Mine, in the Wessex
Water area, cost me £105 last autumn.

Peter Crosland


Good point about the piece of string analogy. :-)

To be honest I didn't think that septic tanks were supposed to need
emptying (I have a 'two tank' arrangement which I assume is par for
the course, ie solids AND water go into one tank then when the level
is at a certain height the liquid drains into the second tank and then
into the soakaway).

But ever since I moved into this property a few years ago I find the
tank needs emptying about once every 12 to 18 months - I know when it
needs doing as the level in the 'sewer' system (that the toilet, bath,
etc drain into on the way to the tank) gets higher and the solids and
water inlet pipe to the first tank gets blocked every few days as the
'water' isn't flowing out as well as it used to. Empty the tanks and
all is well for the next 12 to 18 months.


I assume you have a brick or concrete tank. It is a myth that septic tanks
don't need emptying. A major problem is that they are seldom maintained and
inspected for proper functionality. Any septic tanks has a finite size, and
the solids need removing from this from time to time to ensure that it
operates correctly. The second chamber should contain no solids because the
outflow into the soakaway should be fluid only. It is good practice to have
the flow through the system from the first chamber regularly and an ideal
time to do this is when the tank is empty. If it is not the soakaway will,
over a period of years, get clogged and eventually will have to be excavated
and reconstructed. If you have not lived in a property with septic tank
drainage before remember that using as few detergents as possible and not
flushing disposable nappies will help to prevent blockages. This sounds
obvious but it does happen! From what you say it sounds as if you should
have it done annually before you get a problem and to prevent solids getting
into the second chamber.

Peter Crosland

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 21:02:43 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:


Mmm. THEY say once a year. Mine- biodisc - does about 4-5 years usually.

Biodisc? Is that quite a modern one? Not sure how old mine is, at a
guess perhaps 20 years plus.

If the solid build up is a lot, then its not digesting stuff. Throw in=20
a dead rat etc to get the biologicals up, and refrain from TOO much=20
caustic soda. etc.

I don't use cautic soda and the like.

In the absence of a dead rat (or any other dead animal) is there
anything else that I can use to get the biologicals up?

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 21:44:50 +0100, "Peter Crosland"
wrote:


I assume you have a brick or concrete tank.

Neither. When both tanks are emptied they appears to by cylindrical
black (plastic? firbreglass?) 'tubes' about 2 feet in diameter and, I
GUESS, about 15 in 20 feet in 'depth'.

There IS a square brick 'lining' about about a foot or two in 'height'
above these 'tubes'

It is a myth that septic tanks
don't need emptying. A major problem is that they are seldom maintained and
inspected for proper functionality.

Who should inspect them? A plumber?

Any septic tanks has a finite size, and
the solids need removing from this from time to time to ensure that it
operates correctly. The second chamber should contain no solids because the
outflow into the soakaway should be fluid only.

I certainly can't see any solids in the second chamber (while they are
of course very obvious in the first chamber) although I do wonder if
it's emptying properly.

It is good practice to have
the flow through the system from the first chamber regularly and an ideal
time to do this is when the tank is empty.

Did you miss out a word there? :-)

Do you mean tested regularly?

If so, when I get them emptied, is this something that I can do? If
so, how?

If it is not the soakaway will,
over a period of years, get clogged and eventually will have to be excavated
and reconstructed. If you have not lived in a property with septic tank
drainage before remember that using as few detergents as possible and not
flushing disposable nappies will help to prevent blockages.

Thankfully I don't flush nappies down it, and mostly only use fairy
liquid and soap. :-)

This sounds
obvious but it does happen! From what you say it sounds as if you should
have it done annually before you get a problem and to prevent solids getting
into the second chamber.

Noted, thanks.

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 21:00:35 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:


Up to =A3100 this year here. Plus a bit of tank looking at.


Who do you get to look at the tank? A plumber or a septic tank
specialist?

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 21:00:35 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

Incidentally, here's some pictures of the first tank, taken very soon
after it was emptied last year. You can't really judge the depth from
these, but here's a general 'looking down' pic:

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...9/P4230010.jpg

This is a better picture of the the inlet pipe:

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...9/P4230011.jpg

and the outlet pipe that goes to the secondary 'water only' tank:

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...9/P4230017.jpg

I assume you have a brick or concrete tank.

Neither. When both tanks are emptied they appears to by cylindrical
black (plastic? firbreglass?) 'tubes' about 2 feet in diameter and, I
GUESS, about 15 in 20 feet in 'depth'.

There IS a square brick 'lining' about about a foot or two in 'height'
above these 'tubes'

It is a myth that septic tanks
don't need emptying. A major problem is that they are seldom maintained
and
inspected for proper functionality.

Who should inspect them? A plumber?

Any septic tanks has a finite size, and
the solids need removing from this from time to time to ensure that it
operates correctly. The second chamber should contain no solids because
the
outflow into the soakaway should be fluid only.

I certainly can't see any solids in the second chamber (while they are
of course very obvious in the first chamber) although I do wonder if
it's emptying properly.

It is good practice to have
the flow through the system from the first chamber regularly and an ideal
time to do this is when the tank is empty.

Did you miss out a word there? :-)

Do you mean tested regularly?

If so, when I get them emptied, is this something that I can do? If
so, how?

If it is not the soakaway will,
over a period of years, get clogged and eventually will have to be
excavated
and reconstructed. If you have not lived in a property with septic tank
drainage before remember that using as few detergents as possible and not
flushing disposable nappies will help to prevent blockages.

Thankfully I don't flush nappies down it, and mostly only use fairy
liquid and soap. :-)

This sounds
obvious but it does happen! From what you say it sounds as if you should
have it done annually before you get a problem and to prevent solids
getting
into the second chamber.


Sorry about the missed word that you guessed correctly. You just need to
check that the pipe between the two chambers is not obstructed. Also see if
the outlet to the soakaway is clear. You might be able to get the tanker
driver to have a quick look asit is, obviously, a messy job.

Peter Crosland

Mmm. THEY say once a year. Mine- biodisc - does about 4-5 years usually.

Biodisc? Is that quite a modern one? Not sure how old mine is, at a
guess perhaps 20 years plus.

If the solid build up is a lot, then its not digesting stuff. Throw in=20
a dead rat etc to get the biologicals up, and refrain from TOO much=20
caustic soda. etc.

I don't use cautic soda and the like.

In the absence of a dead rat (or any other dead animal) is there
anything else that I can use to get the biologicals up?

A biodisc is rather different to a septic tank as it is mechanical. They
still need inspecting and checking every six months or so to ensure they are
functioning correctly. If they are just left the chances are that the
outflow is well above the legal level. You can get a sort of starter culture
for a spetic tank but they are often not needed.

Peter Crosland

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 21:32:19 GMT,
(jamma-plusser) wrote:

Incidentally, normally this inlet pipe isn't vivisble as it's under
water:

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...9/P4230011.jpg

The water and some floating solids usually finds a 'natural level'
just below the layer of bricks that you can see.

The usual problem that I get with increasing regularity WHEN the tank
needs emptying is that more and more solids get stuck between the
inlet pipe and the U-shaped arrangement that you can see around it.
This causes the toilet not to flush properly until I de-bung it by
using a long 'stick' to prod down into the area that you see between
the inlet pipe and the U-shaped arrangement around it. This frees up
the solids (fecal matter and toilet paper) and lets the water flow
back in that has backed up in the pipework leading from the toilet,
etc.

It's been like this from time to time ever since I moved here a few
years ago and is rather annoying. It can go for months without a
hitch, then when it's getting to the point where it needs emptying it
starts to need the above mentioned manual 'prodding' once a week or
so, perhaps more often.

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 22:38:16 +0100, "Peter Crosland"
wrote:


A biodisc is rather different to a septic tank as it is mechanical. They
still need inspecting and checking every six months or so to ensure they are
functioning correctly. If they are just left the chances are that the
outflow is well above the legal level. You can get a sort of starter culture
for a spetic tank but they are often not needed.

Thanks. I'm still wondering if a starter culture might be needed in my
tank though. Is such a culture expensive? Where could I get one?

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 22:33:22 +0100, "Peter Crosland"
wrote:


Sorry about the missed word that you guessed correctly. You just need to
check that the pipe between the two chambers is not obstructed. Also see if
the outlet to the soakaway is clear. You might be able to get the tanker
driver to have a quick look asit is, obviously, a messy job.

Quite. I'll ask him to take a look and perhaps divert his suction pipe
over those pipes (although they're difficult to get to due to the
overhead brickwork being partly above them as can be seen in the pics
I just posted).

I assume that his suction pipe would be 'safe' to use on these
(plastic?) interconnect and drainage pipes?

jamma-plusser wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 21:00:35 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:


Up to =A3100 this year here. Plus a bit of tank looking at.


Who do you get to look at the tank? A plumber or a septic tank
specialist?

In my case, the people who supplied it. Septic tank boys.

A biodisc is rather different to a septic tank as it is mechanical. They
still need inspecting and checking every six months or so to ensure they
are
functioning correctly. If they are just left the chances are that the
outflow is well above the legal level. You can get a sort of starter
culture
for a spetic tank but they are often not needed.

Thanks. I'm still wondering if a starter culture might be needed in my
tank though. Is such a culture expensive? Where could I get one?

Google! As long as you don't use lots of detergent it should start itself.

Peter Crosland

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 21:43:43 GMT,
(jamma-plusser) wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 21:32:19 GMT,
(jamma-plusser) wrote:

Incidentally, normally this inlet pipe isn't vivisble as it's under
water:

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...9/P4230011.jpg

The water and some floating solids usually finds a 'natural level'
just below the layer of bricks that you can see.

The usual problem that I get with increasing regularity WHEN the tank
needs emptying is that more and more solids get stuck between the
inlet pipe and the U-shaped arrangement that you can see around it.
This causes the toilet not to flush properly until I de-bung it by
using a long 'stick' to prod down into the area that you see between
the inlet pipe and the U-shaped arrangement around it. This frees up
the solids (fecal matter and toilet paper) and lets the water flow
back in that has backed up in the pipework leading from the toilet,
etc.

It's been like this from time to time ever since I moved here a few
years ago and is rather annoying. It can go for months without a
hitch, then when it's getting to the point where it needs emptying it
starts to need the above mentioned manual 'prodding' once a week or
so, perhaps more often.

It looks as if it might be made from sections of concrete pipe, which
is a perfectly good method of making a septic tank, however it doesn't
look to be very well designed.

The water level in the tank should be just below the bottom of the
inlet pipe, not above it. Normally the inlet and output pipes
terminate in a T so that solids enter the tank well below the surface
and won't block the inlet. It would seem that solids are getting stuck
because the water level is too high and the design of the inlet baffle
is poor. A quick bodeg might be to cut a couple of inches off the end
of the inlet pipe to give more room for the solids to disperse. You
should check the level of the outlet from the second tank. If this is
too high it will make the level in the first tank too high as well.

Normally a septic tank only needs to be emptied when the sludge at the
bottom of the tank is getting close to the crust at the top, so I
suspect that you are getting the tank emptied more often than
necessary because of this poor design.

Bill

On Sun, 12 Jul 2009 07:57:06 +0100, "Peter Crosland"
wrote:


Google! As long as you don't use lots of detergent it should start itself.

Will do, ta.

On Sun, 12 Jul 2009 01:52:51 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:


Who do you get to look at the tank? A plumber or a septic tank
specialist?

In my case, the people who supplied it. Septic tank boys.


Unfortunately I have no idea who supplied mine, so it'll be the yellow
pages if necessary. Have now arranged for the tank to be emptied
tomorrow, cost = £100. That's 20 quid up on last year. sigh

On Sun, 12 Jul 2009 08:22:52 +0100, Bill Taylor
wrote:


It looks as if it might be made from sections of concrete pipe, which
is a perfectly good method of making a septic tank, however it doesn't
look to be very well designed.

As a rank amateur and the one who has to unblock the damn thing I'm
inclined to agree with you there. :-)

The water level in the tank should be just below the bottom of the
inlet pipe, not above it. Normally the inlet and output pipes
terminate in a T so that solids enter the tank well below the surface
and won't block the inlet. It would seem that solids are getting stuck
because the water level is too high and the design of the inlet baffle
is poor. A quick bodeg might be to cut a couple of inches off the end
of the inlet pipe to give more room for the solids to disperse.

I should have mentioned, the inlet pipe had a few inches lopped off it
soon after taking those photos.That helped a lot, but obviously it's
now at the stage where the sludge build-up combined with the poor
design is causing repeated blockages in the inlet area.

You
should check the level of the outlet from the second tank. If this is
too high it will make the level in the first tank too high as well.

From what I can see, the outlet pipe from the second tank is also too
high.

Normally a septic tank only needs to be emptied when the sludge at the
bottom of the tank is getting close to the crust at the top, so I
suspect that you are getting the tank emptied more often than
necessary because of this poor design.

Indeed. I assume that it would, generally speaking, be a major
undertaking to lower the outlet of the second tank?

Or is there any way that it could be 'fudged' or 'artificially'
lowered so that the water level in both tanks is kept lower and hence
resulting in less bockages in the first tank's inlet area?

Have now booked it to be emptied tomorrow morning.

On 11 July, 22:45, (jamma-plusser) wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 22:38:16 +0100, "Peter Crosland"

wrote:
A biodisc is rather different to a septic tank as it is mechanical. They
still need inspecting and checking every six months or so to ensure they are
functioning correctly. If they are just left the chances are that the
outflow is well above the legal level. You can get a sort of starter culture
for a spetic tank but they are often not needed.

Thanks. I'm still wondering if a starter culture might be needed in my
tank though. Is such a culture expensive? Where could I get one?

We had a septic tank many years ago. It ran for fifteen years before
the first emptying out and for twelve from then until the second, just
before we left the property so don't go chucking your money away on
annual emptying without cause.
If your input system flows correctly and you should notice if it
doesn't and the outlet (second chamber) is clear(ish) fluid and not
above the normal level its ok

As to cultures if you have a neighbour with a tank simply get a bucket
of juice from it and chuck it in unless you come across a bit of road
kill which has become "high". Crap eating bacteria aren't particularly
fussy creatures.
Having said that I used to be responsible for an aerated sludge
industrial effluent plant which the process operators could kill by
pumping caustic effluent to it without neutralising first. We got
restart bacteria from Yorkshire Water and found that our sugar rich
effluent was best dealt with by bacteria sourced from a Doncaster
treatment works. We reckoned the local population must have had a high
sugar diet.
**** is a more complex subject than you would give credit!

On Sun, 12 Jul 2009 03:31:22 -0700 (PDT), cynic
wrote:


We had a septic tank many years ago. It ran for fifteen years before
the first emptying out and for twelve from then until the second, just
before we left the property so don't go chucking your money away on
annual emptying without cause.

Unless you have an apparently badly designed system like I do. Wish I
knew who installed it. Must have been at least 20 years ago that it
was put in.

If your input system flows correctly and you should notice if it
doesn't and the outlet (second chamber) is clear(ish) fluid and not
above the normal level its ok

I rarely look at the contents of the second tank so am not sure what
the normal level is. However, the water is clear-ish.

As to cultures if you have a neighbour with a tank simply get a bucket
of juice from it and chuck it in unless you come across a bit of road
kill which has become "high". Crap eating bacteria aren't particularly
fussy creatures.
Having said that I used to be responsible for an aerated sludge
industrial effluent plant which the process operators could kill by
pumping caustic effluent to it without neutralising first. We got
restart bacteria from Yorkshire Water and found that our sugar rich
effluent was best dealt with by bacteria sourced from a Doncaster
treatment works. We reckoned the local population must have had a high
sugar diet.
**** is a more complex subject than you would give credit!

Not something that I tend to look into that much. ;-)

cynic wrote:

**** is a more complex subject than you would give credit!

And I thought it 'just happened'

:-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Sun, 12 Jul 2009 12:28:15 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

cynic wrote:

**** is a more complex subject than you would give credit!

And I thought it 'just happened'

:-)

Not a fan, then?
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

In article , jamma-plusser
wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 22:38:16 +0100, "Peter Crosland"
wrote:


A biodisc is rather different to a septic tank as it is mechanical.
They still need inspecting and checking every six months or so to
ensure they are functioning correctly. If they are just left the
chances are that the outflow is well above the legal level. You can
get a sort of starter culture for a spetic tank but they are often not
needed.

Thanks. I'm still wondering if a starter culture might be needed in my
tank though. Is such a culture expensive? Where could I get one?

Do you (or family friends) travel to France? Most of the brico places have
something. The one we're using at the moment is called 'WC NET'. Sachet
of grey powder twice as big as a tea bag that you flush away every month or
three. Less than a tenner for about a year.

You might get something similar at a boat or caravan centre

We emptied our tank once in over 20 years (and I'm sure the previous owners
didn't empty it before selling to us)

John (in France)

--
John Mulrooney
NOTE Email address IS correct but might not be checked for a while.

Love is for sharing.

Hello, if it helps our average cost is now =C2=A3150 to empty a septic tank or empty a ce=
sspit for up to 1,000 gallons, as long as we can get within 30 metres of your tank with ou=
r tanker that can be the size of a dustcart. Our cost are having to be increase due to ris=
ing fuel cost and sewage disposal charges from the Local Water Authorities. More inf=
ormation on Septic Tank emptying please visit us at www.thelcoalseptictankco.co.=
uk

url:http://myreader.co.uk/msg/1391144721.aspx

James wrote:
Hello, if it helps our average cost is now £150 to empty a septic tank or empty a cesspit for up to 1,000 gallons, as long as we can get within 30 metres of your tank with our tanker that can be the size of a dustcart. Our cost are having to be increase due to rising fuel cost and sewage disposal charges from the Local Water Authorities. More information on Septic Tank emptying please visit us at www.thelcoalseptictankco.co.uk

url:http://myreader.co.uk/msg/1391144721.aspx

Think its a bit less than that here


--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

James wrote:

if it helps our average cost is now £150 to empty a septic tank

Think its a bit less than that here

How much was it in 2009 when the question was originally asked?

Andy Burns wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

James wrote:

if it helps our average cost is now £150 to empty a septic tank

Think its a bit less than that here

How much was it in 2009 when the question was originally asked?

bit less even that that ;-)


--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

That sounds pretty reasonable.

Brian

--
Brian Gaff -
Note:- In order to reduce spam, any email without 'Brian Gaff'
in the display name may be lost.
Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Andy Burns" wrote in message
news
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

James wrote:

if it helps our average cost is now £150 to empty a septic tank

Think its a bit less than that here

How much was it in 2009 when the question was originally asked?