I am constantly seeing messages on here about the bladder tanks for
wells not working. I have had to replace far too many of them myself.
I have never opened one of them, but I assume these bladders are
similar to a inner tube for tires. Apparently the water contact with
them causes the rubber to deteriorate.

Does anyone know what the average lifespan is for the bladders?
I seem to have to replace them every 7 or 8 years, and that is getting
costly. Before I installed the bladder tank, I had a large galvanized
tank that had no bladder. That tank would need to be drained 3 or 4
times a year, but even when it waterlogged, the pump did not cycle as
often as a much smaller bladder tank.

I know my tank is probably due to be replaced soon again, and I am
considering going back to the old fashioned large non-bladder
galvanized tank, which seem to last forever. In fact I still have the
one I removed years ago, and I bet it will still work.

I'm starting to think the manufacturers of these tanks give them a
limited lifespan so they can keep selling them, and since the bladders
are not replaceable, they can sell a whole (costly) tank each and
every time.

By the way, I found the tanks with defective bladders make good air
compressor tanks, so at least they serve some purpose afterwards.

On Mar 9, 6:29 am, wrote:
I am constantly seeing messages on here about the bladder tanks for
wells not working. I have had to replace far too many of them myself.
I have never opened one of them, but I assume these bladders are
similar to a inner tube for tires. Apparently the water contact with
them causes the rubber to deteriorate.

Does anyone know what the average lifespan is for the bladders?
I seem to have to replace them every 7 or 8 years, and that is getting
costly. Before I installed the bladder tank, I had a large galvanized
tank that had no bladder. That tank would need to be drained 3 or 4
times a year, but even when it waterlogged, the pump did not cycle as
often as a much smaller bladder tank.

I know my tank is probably due to be replaced soon again, and I am
considering going back to the old fashioned large non-bladder
galvanized tank, which seem to last forever. In fact I still have the
one I removed years ago, and I bet it will still work.

I'm starting to think the manufacturers of these tanks give them a
limited lifespan so they can keep selling them, and since the bladders
are not replaceable, they can sell a whole (costly) tank each and
every time.

By the way, I found the tanks with defective bladders make good air
compressor tanks, so at least they serve some purpose afterwards.


Over 30 years, I've had pressure tank replaced twice. Last time, a
few years ago, it was leaking. It is a pricey job but over life time
of well usage, probably cheaper than buying water.

Frank

I had read on this group one other time to keep an eye on the air
pressure in the tank. Drain the tank and check the pressure. If the
pressure is too low, the water pressure can break the bladder. Since
I read that, I have yet to replace my tank. Prior to that I had to 2
times in 10 years.
Mark

wrote:
I am constantly seeing messages on here about the bladder tanks for
wells not working. I have had to replace far too many of them myself.
I have never opened one of them, but I assume these bladders are
similar to a inner tube for tires. Apparently the water contact with
them causes the rubber to deteriorate.

Same tank for 30 years....pump gets replaced about every 8-10



Does anyone know what the average lifespan is for the bladders?
I seem to have to replace them every 7 or 8 years, and that is getting
costly. Before I installed the bladder tank, I had a large galvanized
tank that had no bladder. That tank would need to be drained 3 or 4
times a year, but even when it waterlogged, the pump did not cycle as
often as a much smaller bladder tank.

I know my tank is probably due to be replaced soon again, and I am
considering going back to the old fashioned large non-bladder
galvanized tank, which seem to last forever. In fact I still have the
one I removed years ago, and I bet it will still work.

I'm starting to think the manufacturers of these tanks give them a
limited lifespan so they can keep selling them, and since the bladders
are not replaceable, they can sell a whole (costly) tank each and
every time.

By the way, I found the tanks with defective bladders make good air
compressor tanks, so at least they serve some purpose afterwards.

wrote:
I am constantly seeing messages on here about the bladder tanks for
wells not working. I have had to replace far too many of them myself.
I have never opened one of them, but I assume these bladders are
similar to a inner tube for tires. Apparently the water contact with
them causes the rubber to deteriorate.

Does anyone know what the average lifespan is for the bladders?
I seem to have to replace them every 7 or 8 years, and that is getting
costly. Before I installed the bladder tank, I had a large galvanized
tank that had no bladder. That tank would need to be drained 3 or 4
times a year, but even when it waterlogged, the pump did not cycle as
often as a much smaller bladder tank.

I know my tank is probably due to be replaced soon again, and I am
considering going back to the old fashioned large non-bladder
galvanized tank, which seem to last forever. In fact I still have the
one I removed years ago, and I bet it will still work.

I'm starting to think the manufacturers of these tanks give them a
limited lifespan so they can keep selling them, and since the bladders
are not replaceable, they can sell a whole (costly) tank each and
every time.

By the way, I found the tanks with defective bladders make good air
compressor tanks, so at least they serve some purpose afterwards.

Mine is 32 years old. No problems.

Rob

On Mar 9, 3:29 am, wrote:
I am constantly seeing messages on here about the bladder tanks for
wells not working. I have had to replace far too many of them myself.
I have never opened one of them, but I assume these bladders are
similar to a inner tube for tires. Apparently the water contact with
them causes the rubber to deteriorate.

Does anyone know what the average lifespan is for the bladders?
I seem to have to replace them every 7 or 8 years, and that is getting
costly. Before I installed the bladder tank, I had a large galvanized
tank that had no bladder. That tank would need to be drained 3 or 4
times a year, but even when it waterlogged, the pump did not cycle as
often as a much smaller bladder tank.

I know my tank is probably due to be replaced soon again, and I am
considering going back to the old fashioned large non-bladder
galvanized tank, which seem to last forever. In fact I still have the
one I removed years ago, and I bet it will still work.

I'm starting to think the manufacturers of these tanks give them a
limited lifespan so they can keep selling them, and since the bladders
are not replaceable, they can sell a whole (costly) tank each and
every time.

By the way, I found the tanks with defective bladders make good air
compressor tanks, so at least they serve some purpose afterwards.

I drill wells, normally I don't deal with the bladder tanks & what
not, but I still have my two cents:

It seems to me that more often than not, the ones that have issues
show them within the first year due to assm. issues, or within 5 to 8
years due to maintenance issues. You should check to make sure you
have it setup right - some tanks can't handle being set on their
sides, some are specifically designed for it....Also, the big rule of
thumb is - you get what you pay for.

Maintenance - Shut off the power to the pump(s), drain the tank &
system completely, check the air pressure with a tire gauge, fill to 2
psi below turn on level (if your pressure switch is a 40/60 on/off,
fill to 38psi). Then turn everything back on. Never suddenly open
valves, use a nice slow smooth motion, this reduces shock loading
systems. If you have a constant pressure system installed (ask the
dealer you bought it from - usually a big control box with flashing
lights & a computer inside), then the tank pressure level is
different. Some manufacturers have said 20 psi is the max, some have
said 20 psi below the set pressure level, some have said to do it the
same way you do any other tank....mixed messages to say the least.
Check with your pump manufacturer.

The other option that I've mention on this board before is the use of
a constant pressure system, either an electric controller like the
MonoDrive from Franklin Electric, or a Cycle Stop Valve which is
mechanically based. Both of these systems allow you to use a much
smaller bladder tank (5 gallons vs 85 gallons), thereby reducing costs
of tank failures....plus, they generally protect the pump pretty well.


As for the fellow replacing his pump every 7 to 8 years....what are
you pumping?? If it's not pumping a number of solids, there's no
reason your pump should be replaced every 7 to 8 years....I'm going to
assume you're pumping water out of a drilled well for the below
suggestions:

I've seen submersible pumps in the ground for 50 years & still
running. Call the local _pump_ dealer, like United Pipe, Western
Hydro, or Grainger even, give them the depth of the water in the well
when it is fully charged, the amount of water the well makes, and the
depth you plan on putting the pump at. They should be able to figure
out how to get you a Flint & Walling or Gould's submersible with a
Franklin Motor - make sure it is a 3 wire with ground, 230v pump.
That pump should last you 20 years. Also, I'd check to make sure you
have proper run times set up - the pump should run for a minimum of 2
minutes from on to off. If you aren't running it that long, your
motor is going to burn up, thereby necessitating a replacement. You
can increase the amount of run time with a cycle stop valve, mono
drive, or a bigger/additional pressure tank. Also, ask the dealer to
size the pump for the middle of the curve. If your well is on the
right of the curve, the pump won't make enough pressure/flow. If it's
on the left of the pump curve, the pump will have too much power &
will eat all the thrust bearings out of itself. Also, make sure the
well & pump is properly connected to ground.

I've heard of some guys in Michigan that go around putting 2 wire 110v
pumps in every well - they figure they'll last about 7 years at most,
so they just stock the truck up with about 4 of the same pumps & plan
on doing 2 or 3 service calls a day to replace them.....Now this is
purely rumor, but if they sized the pumps correctly - they'd last for
20 years....But, then they don't get repeat business

Just my two cents.

Pierce Kiltoff
JKA Well Drilling
www.jkawelldrilling.com

On Mar 9, 3:29 am, wrote:
I am constantly seeing messages on here about the bladder tanks for
wells not working. I have had to replace far too many of them myself.
I have never opened one of them, but I assume these bladders are
similar to a inner tube for tires. Apparently the water contact with
them causes the rubber to deteriorate.

Does anyone know what the average lifespan is for the bladders?
I seem to have to replace them every 7 or 8 years, and that is getting
costly. Before I installed the bladder tank, I had a large galvanized
tank that had no bladder. That tank would need to be drained 3 or 4
times a year, but even when it waterlogged, the pump did not cycle as
often as a much smaller bladder tank.

I know my tank is probably due to be replaced soon again, and I am
considering going back to the old fashioned large non-bladder
galvanized tank, which seem to last forever. In fact I still have the
one I removed years ago, and I bet it will still work.

I'm starting to think the manufacturers of these tanks give them a
limited lifespan so they can keep selling them, and since the bladders
are not replaceable, they can sell a whole (costly) tank each and
every time.

By the way, I found the tanks with defective bladders make good air
compressor tanks, so at least they serve some purpose afterwards.

As others have said, the key is keeping watch on the air pressure.
When the pressure gets low more water gets in the bladder, stretching
it beyond it's intended limits. Some tanks have replaceable bladders,
with bladders available from the tank manufacturer. But in my
experience, when a bladder ruptures and the tank waterlogs, the inside
of the tank starts rusting and is subject to failure. Better to
replace the whole thing at one time than piecemeal it.
-Red

replying to Pierce Kiltoff, BOBBY w CARLISLE wrote:
i have a slow recovering well about 165 ft deep the well was here long before
i bought the place what can i do to increase the amount of water .some
suggested clean the well screen with a well screen brush .i have pulled the
pump before so i know what it is involved .any suggestions would help without
bunch of money

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ll-201716-.htm

On 4/19/2018 9:44 AM, BOBBY w CARLISLE wrote:
replying to Pierce Kiltoff, BOBBY w CARLISLE wrote:
i have a slow recovering well about 165 ft deep the well was here long
before
i bought the place what can i do to increase the amount of water .some
suggested clean the well screen with a well screen brush .i have pulled the
pump before so i know what it is involved .any suggestions would help
without bunch of money

Where's the current water level and what was it when the well was dug?

In all likelihood, the water table is simply lower now and the only
thing you can do is drop the pump deeper; presuming there's still some
depth below where the pump is set.

If not, it's likely new well time or live with it.

We're in same shape here...table was 128-130' in '66; now it's about
140'. If you're lucky you know who drilled the well and they've still
got the records and can tell you what it was...

--

On Thu, 19 Apr 2018 13:34:00 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 4/19/2018 9:44 AM, BOBBY w CARLISLE wrote:
replying to Pierce Kiltoff, BOBBY w CARLISLE wrote:
i have a slow recovering well about 165 ft deep the well was here long
before
i bought the place what can i do to increase the amount of water .some
suggested clean the well screen with a well screen brush .i have pulled the
pump before so i know what it is involved .any suggestions would help
without bunch of money

Where's the current water level and what was it when the well was dug?

In all likelihood, the water table is simply lower now and the only
thing you can do is drop the pump deeper; presuming there's still some
depth below where the pump is set.

If not, it's likely new well time or live with it.

We're in same shape here...table was 128-130' in '66; now it's about
140'. If you're lucky you know who drilled the well and they've still
got the records and can tell you what it was...


This might not apply to deeper drilled wells or your soil conditions -
- our well was only ~ 45 feet deep but -
after many years of struggling with low flow -
we had it " blown out " - a small tanker truck with a big honkin
air compressor - blew the silt out from the bottom of the well ..
It made a big immediate difference - not sure about long-term.
John T.

On 4/19/2018 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Apr 2018 13:34:00 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 4/19/2018 9:44 AM, BOBBY w CARLISLE wrote:
replying to Pierce Kiltoff, BOBBY w CARLISLE wrote:
i have a slow recovering well about 165 ft deep the well was here long
before
i bought the place what can i do to increase the amount of water .some
suggested clean the well screen with a well screen brush .i have pulled the
pump before so i know what it is involved .any suggestions would help
without bunch of money

Where's the current water level and what was it when the well was dug?

In all likelihood, the water table is simply lower now and the only
thing you can do is drop the pump deeper; presuming there's still some
depth below where the pump is set.

If not, it's likely new well time or live with it.

We're in same shape here...table was 128-130' in '66; now it's about
140'. If you're lucky you know who drilled the well and they've still
got the records and can tell you what it was...


This might not apply to deeper drilled wells or your soil conditions -
- our well was only ~ 45 feet deep but -
after many years of struggling with low flow -
we had it " blown out " - a small tanker truck with a big honkin
air compressor - blew the silt out from the bottom of the well ..
It made a big immediate difference - not sure about long-term.
John T.

That's something good to know and it is a good topic to discuss even
though op post is over 10 years old.

I had high recovery rate on mine when house was built over 40 years ago
but my next door neighbors well developed very low flow and a new one
was dug. It was only about 20 ft from the old one so maybe it could
have been blown out too.

I think they want a recovery rate of at least 3 gallons a minute and
mine was said to be 15. I know a guy with only one gallon recovery rate
and he had to install a large holding tank for his house.

Aquifers are apparently not pools of water or streams but just highly
porous rocks. I have a sediment filter that I need change every 6
months or so when flow slows down.

I don't mess with my bladder tank pressure but being a bladder it could
gradually leak air and need to be pumped to proper pressure. I had to
have my tank replaced twice as tanks themselves developed a leak.

replying to Pierce Kiltoff, Karna wrote:
I appreciate your opinion and advise but I just want to let you know I spend
between three and $500 on a pressure tank roughly every 7 years . I check the
pressure in the tank every 3 months to ensure it reads 28 pounds . My issue
is that it doesnt seem to matter which brand of tank I buy I am constantly
plagued with leaking bladders . I guess just bad luck

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ll-201716-.htm

On 10/26/2018 3:14 PM, Karna wrote:
replying to Pierce Kiltoff, Karna wrote:
I appreciate your opinionÂ* and advise but I just want to let you know I
spend
between three and $500 on a pressure tank roughly everyÂ* 7 years . I
check the
pressure in the tank every 3 monthsÂ* to ensure it reads 28 pounds .Â* My
issue
is that it doesnt seem to matter which brand of tank I buy I am
constantly plagued with leaking bladders . I guess just bad luck

My house is over 40 years old and I am on my 3rd pressure tank. I don't
check the pressure but had the plumber do it last visit and it was fine.

Electric water heaters on well water only average 7 years for me.

On Friday, October 26, 2018 at 3:14:06 PM UTC-4, Karna wrote:
replying to Pierce Kiltoff, Karna wrote:
I appreciate your opinion and advise but I just want to let you know I spend
between three and $500 on a pressure tank roughly every 7 years . I check the
pressure in the tank every 3 months to ensure it reads 28 pounds . My issue
is that it doesnt seem to matter which brand of tank I buy I am constantly
plagued with leaking bladders . I guess just bad luck

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ll-201716-.htm

Many of those tank, maybe all of them, you can just replace the bladder.
If you DIY, it should be an order of magnitude less expensive.

I appreciate your opinion and advise but I just want to let you know I spend
between three and $500 on a pressure tank roughly every 7 years . I check the
pressure in the tank every 3 months to ensure it reads 28 pounds . My issue
is that it doesn’t seem to matter which brand of tank I buy I am constantly
plagued with leaking bladders . I guess just bad luck


Many of those tank, maybe all of them, you can just replace the bladder.
If you DIY, it should be an order of magnitude less expensive.


Show me ..
I thought they were all welded tanks with just inlet/outlet
fittings .. ?

http://www.flotecpump.com/residentia...faq_tanks.aspx

This website says the bladder is replacable but doesn't give details.

I'm confused as usual.

John T.

On Fri, 26 Oct 2018 18:32:02 -0400, wrote:


I appreciate your opinion and advise but I just want to let you know I spend
between three and $500 on a pressure tank roughly every 7 years . I check the
pressure in the tank every 3 months to ensure it reads 28 pounds . My issue
is that it doesnt seem to matter which brand of tank I buy I am constantly
plagued with leaking bladders . I guess just bad luck


Many of those tank, maybe all of them, you can just replace the bladder.
If you DIY, it should be an order of magnitude less expensive.


Show me ..
I thought they were all welded tanks with just inlet/outlet
fittings .. ?

http://www.flotecpump.com/residentia...faq_tanks.aspx

This website says the bladder is replacable but doesn't give details.

I'm confused as usual.

John T.

I have never actually found a replacement that looked like it was for
the tank I had. I have a fiberglass one sitting here I have tried to
fix for a while.
If it is a steel tank they are usually rusted out inside anyway.

On Friday, October 26, 2018 at 6:28:45 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I appreciate your opinion and advise but I just want to let you know I spend
between three and $500 on a pressure tank roughly every 7 years . I check the
pressure in the tank every 3 months to ensure it reads 28 pounds . My issue
is that it doesnt seem to matter which brand of tank I buy I am constantly
plagued with leaking bladders . I guess just bad luck


Many of those tank, maybe all of them, you can just replace the bladder.
If you DIY, it should be an order of magnitude less expensive.


Show me ..
I thought they were all welded tanks with just inlet/outlet
fittings .. ?

http://www.flotecpump.com/residentia...faq_tanks.aspx

This website says the bladder is replacable but doesn't give details.

I'm confused as usual.

John T.

The ones I've seen have had a plug, maybe 3" in diameter on top, the
air valve goes through it. I would assume you remove the plug and
the bladder is attached, comes out and you put the new one in. Seems
logical to me.