Trying to cut away large sections of walls to be removed, which are
plastered with lath and plaster (not sheetrock). This involves cutting
thru the exterior of the house siding, 1" boards under it, and some
studs. I was using a chainsaw, which worked fine for the first couple
feet, but then the teeth got real dull. I was careful to avoid nails,
but it's hard to keep from hitting that plaster, since there are globs
between the laths.

I just sharpened the chain again, but decided I'll have to sharpen this
chain many times before I finish this job, and will probably have to buy
a new chain by the time I'm finished. I think that my sawsall might be
a better choice since the blades are cheaper and much easier to replace.
My question is the type of blade to use. Do they make any blades
intended for demolition? I will continue to do my best to avoid nails,
but there is no guarantee, and I'll hit at least some plaster no matter
what. Do they make carbide tipped blades for a sawsall? (I may try to
use my circular saw with a carbide blade for the straight cuts too). At
least with the circular saw the depth of cut can be controlled better to
avoid the plaster. However, the circular saw cant do much for cutting
out studs, which is where I must use the sawsall, and where it will hit
plaster.

One other thing, there is pink fiberglass insulation in the walls. Does
fiberglass dull blades? While it's easy to cut, I wonder if fiberglass
acts as an abrasive to dull them, since it is a glass product??????

Thanks

On Apr 19, 3:54*am, wrote:
Trying to cut away large sections of walls to be removed, which are
plastered with lath and plaster (not sheetrock). *This involves cutting
thru the exterior of the house siding, 1" boards under it, and some
studs. *I was using a chainsaw, which worked fine for the first couple
feet, but then the teeth got real dull. *I was careful to avoid nails,
but it's hard to keep from hitting that plaster, since there are globs
between the laths.

I just sharpened the chain again, but decided I'll have to sharpen this
chain many times before I finish this job, and will probably have to buy
a new chain by the time I'm finished. *I think that my sawsall might be
a better choice since the blades are cheaper and much easier to replace.
My question is the type of blade to use. *Do they make any blades
intended for demolition? *I will continue to do my best to avoid nails,
but there is no guarantee, and I'll hit at least some plaster no matter
what. *Do they make carbide tipped blades for a sawsall? *(I may try to
use my circular saw with a carbide blade for the straight cuts too). At
least with the circular saw the depth of cut can be controlled better to
avoid the plaster. *However, the circular saw cant do much for cutting
out studs, which is where I must use the sawsall, and where it will hit
plaster.

One other thing, there is pink fiberglass insulation in the walls. *Does
fiberglass dull blades? *While it's easy to cut, I wonder if fiberglass
acts as an abrasive to dull them, since it is a glass product??????

Thanks

remove the inner lathe and plaster wall and insulation FIRST. which
allows inspection for hidden hazards like wires, plumbing etc
etc.......

put some chip board over the inner wall temporarily if necessary

On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 01:55:03 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

On Apr 19, 3:54*am, wrote:
Trying to cut away large sections of walls to be removed, which are
plastered with lath and plaster (not sheetrock). *This involves cutting
thru the exterior of the house siding, 1" boards under it, and some
studs. *I was using a chainsaw, which worked fine for the first couple
feet, but then the teeth got real dull. *I was careful to avoid nails,
but it's hard to keep from hitting that plaster, since there are globs
between the laths.

I just sharpened the chain again, but decided I'll have to sharpen this
chain many times before I finish this job, and will probably have to buy
a new chain by the time I'm finished. *I think that my sawsall might be
a better choice since the blades are cheaper and much easier to replace.
My question is the type of blade to use. *Do they make any blades
intended for demolition? *I will continue to do my best to avoid nails,
but there is no guarantee, and I'll hit at least some plaster no matter
what. *Do they make carbide tipped blades for a sawsall? *(I may try to
use my circular saw with a carbide blade for the straight cuts too). At
least with the circular saw the depth of cut can be controlled better to
avoid the plaster. *However, the circular saw cant do much for cutting
out studs, which is where I must use the sawsall, and where it will hit
plaster.

One other thing, there is pink fiberglass insulation in the walls. *Does
fiberglass dull blades? *While it's easy to cut, I wonder if fiberglass
acts as an abrasive to dull them, since it is a glass product??????

Thanks

remove the inner lathe and plaster wall and insulation FIRST. which
allows inspection for hidden hazards like wires, plumbing etc
etc.......

put some chip board over the inner wall temporarily if necessary

Good ideas, but this is a demolition job of the old part of the house.
The newer part was already cut away and walled off. No plumbing in
there since it was removed first. If I cut wires that dont matter, the
power is off and all the wire is being very old K&T or cloth covered
romex which will be sold for scrap. While removal of plaster would
help, because of fallen parts of the roof and other things that
collapsed, it's too dangerous to go inside. The walls are being cut
into sections from the outside and dragged with machinery to a burn
pile.

On 4/19/2012 2:54 AM, wrote:
Trying to cut away large sections of walls to be removed, which are
plastered with lath and plaster (not sheetrock). This involves cutting
thru the exterior of the house siding, 1" boards under it, and some
studs. I was using a chainsaw, which worked fine for the first couple
feet, but then the teeth got real dull. I was careful to avoid nails,
but it's hard to keep from hitting that plaster, since there are globs
between the laths.

I just sharpened the chain again, but decided I'll have to sharpen this
chain many times before I finish this job, and will probably have to buy
a new chain by the time I'm finished. I think that my sawsall might be
a better choice since the blades are cheaper and much easier to replace.
My question is the type of blade to use. Do they make any blades
intended for demolition? I will continue to do my best to avoid nails,
but there is no guarantee, and I'll hit at least some plaster no matter
what. Do they make carbide tipped blades for a sawsall? (I may try to
use my circular saw with a carbide blade for the straight cuts too). At
least with the circular saw the depth of cut can be controlled better to
avoid the plaster. However, the circular saw cant do much for cutting
out studs, which is where I must use the sawsall, and where it will hit
plaster.

One other thing, there is pink fiberglass insulation in the walls. Does
fiberglass dull blades? While it's easy to cut, I wonder if fiberglass
acts as an abrasive to dull them, since it is a glass product??????

Thanks



the milwalkee "AX" blades hold up to plaster fairly well. and will go
through nails.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 4/19/2012 7:49 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 01:55:03 -0700 (PDT), bob
wrote:

On Apr 19, 3:54 am, wrote:
Trying to cut away large sections of walls to be removed, which are
plastered with lath and plaster (not sheetrock). This involves cutting
thru the exterior of the house siding, 1" boards under it, and some
studs. I was using a chainsaw, which worked fine for the first couple
feet, but then the teeth got real dull. I was careful to avoid nails,
but it's hard to keep from hitting that plaster, since there are globs
between the laths.

I just sharpened the chain again, but decided I'll have to sharpen this
chain many times before I finish this job, and will probably have to buy
a new chain by the time I'm finished. I think that my sawsall might be
a better choice since the blades are cheaper and much easier to replace.
My question is the type of blade to use. Do they make any blades
intended for demolition? I will continue to do my best to avoid nails,
but there is no guarantee, and I'll hit at least some plaster no matter
what. Do they make carbide tipped blades for a sawsall? (I may try to
use my circular saw with a carbide blade for the straight cuts too). At
least with the circular saw the depth of cut can be controlled better to
avoid the plaster. However, the circular saw cant do much for cutting
out studs, which is where I must use the sawsall, and where it will hit
plaster.

One other thing, there is pink fiberglass insulation in the walls. Does
fiberglass dull blades? While it's easy to cut, I wonder if fiberglass
acts as an abrasive to dull them, since it is a glass product??????

Thanks

remove the inner lathe and plaster wall and insulation FIRST. which
allows inspection for hidden hazards like wires, plumbing etc
etc.......

put some chip board over the inner wall temporarily if necessary

Good ideas, but this is a demolition job of the old part of the house.
The newer part was already cut away and walled off. No plumbing in
there since it was removed first. If I cut wires that dont matter, the
power is off and all the wire is being very old K&T or cloth covered
romex which will be sold for scrap. While removal of plaster would
help, because of fallen parts of the roof and other things that
collapsed, it's too dangerous to go inside. The walls are being cut
into sections from the outside and dragged with machinery to a burn
pile.


now given THIS information, i'd just put heavy cable or chain from
window to window, and pull away.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

wrote:

Trying to cut away large sections of walls to be removed, which are
plastered with lath and plaster (not sheetrock). This involves cutting
thru the exterior of the house siding, 1" boards under it, and some
studs. I was using a chainsaw, which worked fine for the first couple
feet, but then the teeth got real dull. I was careful to avoid nails,
but it's hard to keep from hitting that plaster, since there are globs
between the laths.

I just sharpened the chain again, but decided I'll have to sharpen this
chain many times before I finish this job, and will probably have to buy
a new chain by the time I'm finished.

And likely a new sprocket-- maybe a new bar. And make sure that air
filter stays on tight as that old plaster dust would score up your
cylinders in short order.

I think that my sawsall might be
a better choice since the blades are cheaper and much easier to replace.

and it is quieter-- and a lot easier to handle. a chainsaw might
be handy for the odd beam in demolition, but it is the *wrong tool*
for what you're doing.


My question is the type of blade to use. Do they make any blades
intended for demolition?

I like 'the axe' for general stuff. But for what you're doing, get
a demolition blade set -
$25 for 12 blades.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYAZLE/

Get 2 for what a chain alone would cost you and don't even think about
it when you toss a blade that is dull.

Jim

Yes, they do make demolition blades. Available at Home Depot.

If you have a team (two guys changing blades on saws, and one on the saw
that's being used) you can use blades from Harbor Freight. But, they don't
last very long.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message

Good ideas, but this is a demolition job of the old part of the house.
The newer part was already cut away and walled off. No plumbing in
there since it was removed first. If I cut wires that dont matter, the
power is off and all the wire is being very old K&T or cloth covered
romex which will be sold for scrap. While removal of plaster would
help, because of fallen parts of the roof and other things that
collapsed, it's too dangerous to go inside. The walls are being cut
into sections from the outside and dragged with machinery to a burn
pile.

posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP

Good ideas, but this is a demolition job of the old part of the house.
The newer part was already cut away and walled off. No plumbing in
there since it was removed first. If I cut wires that dont matter, the
power is off and all the wire is being very old K&T or cloth covered
romex which will be sold for scrap. While removal of plaster would
help, because of fallen parts of the roof and other things that
collapsed, it's too dangerous to go inside. The walls are being cut
into sections from the outside and dragged with machinery to a burn
pile.



This is different than originally thought. Either rent a
Bobcat or backhoe and have at it.

--
Tekkie

On Apr 19, 9:27*am, Steve Barker wrote:
On 4/19/2012 7:49 AM, wrote:





On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 01:55:03 -0700 (PDT), bob
wrote:

On Apr 19, 3:54 am, wrote:
Trying to cut away large sections of walls to be removed, which are
plastered with lath and plaster (not sheetrock). *This involves cutting
thru the exterior of the house siding, 1" boards under it, and some
studs. *I was using a chainsaw, which worked fine for the first couple
feet, but then the teeth got real dull. *I was careful to avoid nails,
but it's hard to keep from hitting that plaster, since there are globs
between the laths.

I just sharpened the chain again, but decided I'll have to sharpen this
chain many times before I finish this job, and will probably have to buy
a new chain by the time I'm finished. *I think that my sawsall might be
a better choice since the blades are cheaper and much easier to replace.
My question is the type of blade to use. *Do they make any blades
intended for demolition? *I will continue to do my best to avoid nails,
but there is no guarantee, and I'll hit at least some plaster no matter
what. *Do they make carbide tipped blades for a sawsall? *(I may try to
use my circular saw with a carbide blade for the straight cuts too). At
least with the circular saw the depth of cut can be controlled better to
avoid the plaster. *However, the circular saw cant do much for cutting
out studs, which is where I must use the sawsall, and where it will hit
plaster.

One other thing, there is pink fiberglass insulation in the walls. *Does
fiberglass dull blades? *While it's easy to cut, I wonder if fiberglass
acts as an abrasive to dull them, since it is a glass product??????

Thanks

remove the inner lathe and plaster wall and insulation FIRST. which
allows inspection for hidden hazards like wires, plumbing etc
etc.......

put some chip board over the inner wall temporarily if necessary

Good ideas, but this is a demolition job of the old part of the house.
The newer part was already cut away and walled off. * No plumbing in
there since it was removed first. *If I cut wires that dont matter, the
power is off and all the wire is being very old K&T or cloth covered
romex which will be sold for scrap. *While removal of plaster would
help, because of fallen parts of the roof and other things that
collapsed, it's too dangerous to go inside. *The walls are being cut
into sections from the outside and dragged with machinery to a burn
pile.

now given THIS information, i'd just put heavy cable or chain from
window to window, and pull away.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

OP: If you choose this method, wait for me to get there.

I want to watch! ;-)

On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 02:54:03 -0500, wrote:

Trying to cut away large sections of walls to be removed, which are
plastered with lath and plaster (not sheetrock). This involves cutting
thru the exterior of the house siding, 1" boards under it, and some
studs. I was using a chainsaw, which worked fine for the first couple
feet, but then the teeth got real dull. I was careful to avoid nails,
but it's hard to keep from hitting that plaster, since there are globs
between the laths.

I just sharpened the chain again, but decided I'll have to sharpen this
chain many times before I finish this job, and will probably have to buy
a new chain by the time I'm finished. I think that my sawsall might be
a better choice since the blades are cheaper and much easier to replace.
My question is the type of blade to use. Do they make any blades
intended for demolition? I will continue to do my best to avoid nails,
but there is no guarantee, and I'll hit at least some plaster no matter
what. Do they make carbide tipped blades for a sawsall? (I may try to
use my circular saw with a carbide blade for the straight cuts too). At
least with the circular saw the depth of cut can be controlled better to
avoid the plaster. However, the circular saw cant do much for cutting
out studs, which is where I must use the sawsall, and where it will hit
plaster.

One other thing, there is pink fiberglass insulation in the walls. Does
fiberglass dull blades? While it's easy to cut, I wonder if fiberglass
acts as an abrasive to dull them, since it is a glass product??????

Thanks

Get a "demolition blade". I think there is a good one called a
"gator". They'll cut lath, spikes, and anything that gets in the way.
Don't use it on a cheap 6 amp saw though - the blade will outlast the
saw.

On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 14:04:01 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:

posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP

Good ideas, but this is a demolition job of the old part of the house.
The newer part was already cut away and walled off. No plumbing in
there since it was removed first. If I cut wires that dont matter, the
power is off and all the wire is being very old K&T or cloth covered
romex which will be sold for scrap. While removal of plaster would
help, because of fallen parts of the roof and other things that
collapsed, it's too dangerous to go inside. The walls are being cut
into sections from the outside and dragged with machinery to a burn
pile.



This is different than originally thought. Either rent a
Bobcat or backhoe and have at it.

I own a Bobcat, as well as a farm Tractor. If I slammed the Bobcat into
the building, I'd probably have the wall fall on myself and the Bobcat,
and likely end up withe the Bobcat in the basement. Not to mention that
I dont want the walls falling on the part of the building that is being
saved. The way I'm doing it works fine and is safe. I just need a
better blade for cutting. So far I braced the gable end with chains and
come-alongs to nearby trees. Then cut the wall horizontally at the top
of each window on that side, leaving the corner studs only cut part way.
Then release the come-alongs, and connect those chains to a long steel
cable. Connect that cable to the tractor, (which is 60 feet away), and
pulled it down. Then dragged it away from the house, and use the Bobcat
to push it over to my burn pile. Now I'm cutting the walls into strips
about 6 feet wide and doing the same thing. Then I burn that pile, and
the next day take more down. I have to admit I had to put tire chains
on the tractor, and dug them into the ground a good foot before pulling
down these walls. The studs are all hardwood.

This just cleared the part near the section that is being saved. When I
take down the other part, which is far enough away from the saved
section, I'm not going to cut it apart. I have a neighbor coming with
his huge tractor. The plan is to cut the corner studs, connect 3 chains
to each tractor and pull the entire thing down, roof and all. There is
a 27 foot tall brick chimney in there, I'm still not sure how that's
gonna come down., but it will!!! This will be videoed.

On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 10:00:03 -0400, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

And likely a new sprocket-- maybe a new bar. And make sure that air
filter stays on tight as that old plaster dust would score up your
cylinders in short order.

I think that my sawsall might be
a better choice since the blades are cheaper and much easier to replace.

and it is quieter-- and a lot easier to handle. a chainsaw might
be handy for the odd beam in demolition, but it is the *wrong tool*
for what you're doing.


My question is the type of blade to use. Do they make any blades
intended for demolition?

I like 'the axe' for general stuff. But for what you're doing, get
a demolition blade set -
$25 for 12 blades.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYAZLE/

Get 2 for what a chain alone would cost you and don't even think about
it when you toss a blade that is dull.

Jim

I agree about the chainsaw needing a new bar and all of that. I should
mention this is an electric chain saw. Too much hassle restarting a gas
one every few minutes. These electric chainsaws are great for building
things like barns, where 6x6 poles need to be cut and stuff like that.
A circular saw cant cut deep enough, and gas chainsaws are too heavy
when you're up on a ladder 20 feet in the air against a pole. Not to
mention having to fart around pulling the cord to start them, when up
there. I use my electric chainsaw much more than my gas one. The gas
one is only for large tree trucks, or places where there is no
electricity.

Thanks for the blade web-link.

On 4/20/2012 12:46 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 10:00:03 -0400, Jim
wrote:

And likely a new sprocket-- maybe a new bar. And make sure that air
filter stays on tight as that old plaster dust would score up your
cylinders in short order.

I think that my sawsall might be
a better choice since the blades are cheaper and much easier to replace.

and it is quieter-- and a lot easier to handle. a chainsaw might
be handy for the odd beam in demolition, but it is the *wrong tool*
for what you're doing.


My question is the type of blade to use. Do they make any blades
intended for demolition?

I like 'the axe' for general stuff. But for what you're doing, get
a demolition blade set -
$25 for 12 blades.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYAZLE/

Get 2 for what a chain alone would cost you and don't even think about
it when you toss a blade that is dull.

Jim

I agree about the chainsaw needing a new bar and all of that. I should
mention this is an electric chain saw. Too much hassle restarting a gas
one every few minutes. These electric chainsaws are great for building
things like barns, where 6x6 poles need to be cut and stuff like that.
A circular saw cant cut deep enough, and gas chainsaws are too heavy
when you're up on a ladder 20 feet in the air against a pole. Not to
mention having to fart around pulling the cord to start them, when up
there. I use my electric chainsaw much more than my gas one. The gas
one is only for large tree trucks, or places where there is no
electricity.

Thanks for the blade web-link.


i'm curious as to why you would need to restart the saw every few
minutes. I've run mine 8 to 10 hours a day and only restarted it after
it ran out of fuel.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Steve Barker wrote:

On 4/20/2012 12:46 AM, wrote:

-snip-
mention this is an electric chain saw. Too much hassle restarting a gas
one every few minutes.

-snip-
i'm curious as to why you would need to restart the saw every few
minutes. I've run mine 8 to 10 hours a day and only restarted it after
it ran out of fuel.

Just guessing, here, but I'll bet you aren't running a gas saw
*inside* for 8-10 hours straight.g

Jim

On 4/22/2012 5:29 PM, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Steve wrote:

On 4/20/2012 12:46 AM, wrote:

-snip-
mention this is an electric chain saw. Too much hassle restarting a gas
one every few minutes.

-snip-
i'm curious as to why you would need to restart the saw every few
minutes. I've run mine 8 to 10 hours a day and only restarted it after
it ran out of fuel.

Just guessing, here, but I'll bet you aren't running a gas saw
*inside* for 8-10 hours straight.g

Jim

and neither was he. he said it was unsafe to go inside. I have,
however, run the gas powered leaf blower inside, but not for hours.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 14:04:01 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:

posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP

Good ideas, but this is a demolition job of the old part of the house.
The newer part was already cut away and walled off. No plumbing in
there since it was removed first. If I cut wires that dont matter, the
power is off and all the wire is being very old K&T or cloth covered
romex which will be sold for scrap. While removal of plaster would
help, because of fallen parts of the roof and other things that
collapsed, it's too dangerous to go inside. The walls are being cut
into sections from the outside and dragged with machinery to a burn
pile.



This is different than originally thought. Either rent a
Bobcat or backhoe and have at it.

I own a Bobcat, as well as a farm Tractor. If I slammed the Bobcat into
the building, I'd probably have the wall fall on myself and the Bobcat,
and likely end up withe the Bobcat in the basement. Not to mention that
I dont want the walls falling on the part of the building that is being
saved. The way I'm doing it works fine and is safe. I just need a
better blade for cutting. So far I braced the gable end with chains and
come-alongs to nearby trees. Then cut the wall horizontally at the top
of each window on that side, leaving the corner studs only cut part way.
Then release the come-alongs, and connect those chains to a long steel
cable. Connect that cable to the tractor, (which is 60 feet away), and
pulled it down. Then dragged it away from the house, and use the Bobcat
to push it over to my burn pile. Now I'm cutting the walls into strips
about 6 feet wide and doing the same thing. Then I burn that pile, and
the next day take more down. I have to admit I had to put tire chains
on the tractor, and dug them into the ground a good foot before pulling
down these walls. The studs are all hardwood.

This just cleared the part near the section that is being saved. When I
take down the other part, which is far enough away from the saved
section, I'm not going to cut it apart. I have a neighbor coming with
his huge tractor. The plan is to cut the corner studs, connect 3 chains
to each tractor and pull the entire thing down, roof and all. There is
a 27 foot tall brick chimney in there, I'm still not sure how that's
gonna come down., but it will!!! This will be videoed.

I am surprised they allow you to burn this stuff.

--
Tekkie

On 4/19/2012 8:25 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 4/19/2012 2:54 AM, wrote:
Trying to cut away large sections of walls to be removed, which are
plastered with lath and plaster (not sheetrock). This involves cutting
thru the exterior of the house siding, 1" boards under it, and some
studs. I was using a chainsaw, which worked fine for the first couple
feet, but then the teeth got real dull. I was careful to avoid nails,
but it's hard to keep from hitting that plaster, since there are globs
between the laths.

I just sharpened the chain again, but decided I'll have to sharpen this
chain many times before I finish this job, and will probably have to buy
a new chain by the time I'm finished. I think that my sawsall might be
a better choice since the blades are cheaper and much easier to replace.
My question is the type of blade to use. Do they make any blades
intended for demolition? I will continue to do my best to avoid nails,
but there is no guarantee, and I'll hit at least some plaster no matter
what. Do they make carbide tipped blades for a sawsall? (I may try to
use my circular saw with a carbide blade for the straight cuts too). At
least with the circular saw the depth of cut can be controlled better to
avoid the plaster. However, the circular saw cant do much for cutting
out studs, which is where I must use the sawsall, and where it will hit
plaster.

One other thing, there is pink fiberglass insulation in the walls. Does
fiberglass dull blades? While it's easy to cut, I wonder if fiberglass
acts as an abrasive to dull them, since it is a glass product??????

Thanks



the milwalkee "AX" blades hold up to plaster fairly well. and will go
through nails.


I was on a remodel job where I had to cut through a lot of old plaster
and lath walls. The only saw blades and hole saws that would hold up
were the carbide tooth variety.

TDD