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Steve Barker[_6_] Steve Barker[_6_] is offline
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Default Sawsall Blade types for Wall Removal

On 4/20/2012 12:46 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 10:00:03 -0400, Jim
wrote:

And likely a new sprocket-- maybe a new bar. And make sure that air
filter stays on tight as that old plaster dust would score up your
cylinders in short order.

I think that my sawsall might be
a better choice since the blades are cheaper and much easier to replace.


and it is quieter-- and a lot easier to handle. a chainsaw might
be handy for the odd beam in demolition, but it is the *wrong tool*
for what you're doing.


My question is the type of blade to use. Do they make any blades
intended for demolition?


I like 'the axe' for general stuff. But for what you're doing, get
a demolition blade set -
$25 for 12 blades.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYAZLE/

Get 2 for what a chain alone would cost you and don't even think about
it when you toss a blade that is dull.

Jim


I agree about the chainsaw needing a new bar and all of that. I should
mention this is an electric chain saw. Too much hassle restarting a gas
one every few minutes. These electric chainsaws are great for building
things like barns, where 6x6 poles need to be cut and stuff like that.
A circular saw cant cut deep enough, and gas chainsaws are too heavy
when you're up on a ladder 20 feet in the air against a pole. Not to
mention having to fart around pulling the cord to start them, when up
there. I use my electric chainsaw much more than my gas one. The gas
one is only for large tree trucks, or places where there is no
electricity.

Thanks for the blade web-link.


i'm curious as to why you would need to restart the saw every few
minutes. I've run mine 8 to 10 hours a day and only restarted it after
it ran out of fuel.

--
Steve Barker
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