Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. I was thinking
about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 18:39:05 -0600, wrote:

Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. I was thinking
about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

Come back and ask when you stop trolling with your frequent
nym-shifting,

On Mar 11, 5:39*pm, wrote:
Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. *Particularly when they get weathered. *I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. *I was thinking
about oiling all of them. *But with what? *Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? *Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. *I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. *But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

I used olive oil once. Wasn't allergic to it, made the wood beautiful,
made hands soft, only downside was the cat followed me around for days.

On Mar 11, 9:27*pm, Robert Macy wrote:
On Mar 11, 5:39*pm, wrote:

Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. *Particularly when they get weathered. *I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. *I was thinking
about oiling all of them. *But with what? *Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? *Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. *I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. *But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

I used olive oil once. Wasn't allergic to it, made the wood beautiful,
made hands soft, only downside was the cat followed me around for days.

Don't preserve them, turn them into wiffle ball bats.

wrote:
Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. I was thinking
about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks


I've found bright yellow paint works best, they show up better when
you need to find the things and they aren't as apt to grow feet and walk
away.

On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 18:39:05 -0600, wrote:

Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. I was thinking
about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks


I'm no expert on this but I think my dad (builder and jack of all
trades) told me to use Linseed Oil a long time ago. I don't know now
if there's anything better but that should get you by. I guess no oil
could harmful but perhaps some are better for wood than others. Google
on linseed oil uses and see what they say.

On Mar 11, 5:39*pm, wrote:
Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. *Particularly when they get weathered. *I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. *I was thinking
about oiling all of them. *But with what? *Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? *Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. *I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. *But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

50:50 mix linseed oil & thinner or turpentine

On Mar 11, 9:16*pm, DD_BobK wrote:
On Mar 11, 5:39*pm, wrote:

Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. *Particularly when they get weathered. *I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. *I was thinking
about oiling all of them. *But with what? *Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? *Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. *I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. *But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

50:50 mix *linseed oil & *thinner or turpentine

Also, called "hand rubbed" finish.

On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 06:37:54 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Mar 11, 9:16*pm, DD_BobK wrote:
On Mar 11, 5:39*pm, wrote:

Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. *Particularly when they get weathered. *I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. *I was thinking
about oiling all of them. *But with what? *Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? *Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. *I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. *But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

50:50 mix *linseed oil & *thinner or turpentine

Also, called "hand rubbed" finish.

why the mix... is the oil just too thick to work with? Perhaps too
slippery???

"Doug" wrote:
On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 18:39:05 -0600, wrote:

Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. I was thinking
about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks


I'm no expert on this but I think my dad (builder and jack of all
trades) told me to use Linseed Oil a long time ago. I don't know now
if there's anything better but that should get you by. I guess no oil
could harmful but perhaps some are better for wood than others. Google
on linseed oil uses and see what they say.

Linseed oil takes a long time to dry, but might be good. Boiled linseed oil
will dry quicker or is it just thicker. You'll just smell like fish. I've
used boiled linseed oil on cars to help rustproof. It stinks for a couple
weeks, fishy.

Greg

On Mar 12, 9:10*am, gregz wrote:
"Doug" wrote:
On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 18:39:05 -0600, wrote:

Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. *Particularly when they get weathered. *I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. *I was thinking
about oiling all of them. *But with what? *Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? *Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. *I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. *But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

I'm no expert on this but I think my dad (builder and jack of all
trades) told me to use Linseed Oil a long time ago. * I don't know now
if there's anything better but that should get you by. *I guess no oil
could harmful but perhaps some are better for wood than others. Google
on linseed oil uses and see what they say.

Linseed oil takes a long time to dry, but might be good. Boiled linseed oil
will dry quicker or is it just thicker. You'll just smell like fish. I've
used boiled linseed oil on cars to help rustproof. It stinks for a couple
weeks, fishy.

Greg

Fishy?! sounds like it is adulterated. like most cooking oils now.

I had both boiled and unboiled and neither ever smelled fishy.

On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 11:45:04 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Mar 12, 9:10*am, gregz wrote:
"Doug" wrote:
On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 18:39:05 -0600, wrote:

Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. *Particularly when they get weathered. *I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. *I was thinking
about oiling all of them. *But with what? *Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? *Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. *I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. *But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

I'm no expert on this but I think my dad (builder and jack of all
trades) told me to use Linseed Oil a long time ago. * I don't know now
if there's anything better but that should get you by. *I guess no oil
could harmful but perhaps some are better for wood than others. Google
on linseed oil uses and see what they say.

Linseed oil takes a long time to dry, but might be good. Boiled linseed oil
will dry quicker or is it just thicker. You'll just smell like fish. I've
used boiled linseed oil on cars to help rustproof. It stinks for a couple
weeks, fishy.

Greg

Fishy?! sounds like it is adulterated. like most cooking oils now.

I had both boiled and unboiled and neither ever smelled fishy.

I used linseed oil (boiled), in high school wood shop and although it
was slow drying I never noticed a fishy odor. I also have a friend who
makes wooden items at his home and he uses it. The biggest concern with
linseed oil is throwing the rags away outdoors in a safe place because
they will self combust. I'll probably use this on the shovels and stuff.
Seems like a good waterproofer. I'm thinking about painting them after
the oil drys too, or maybe just using an oil base paint right from the
start, and give them a few coats.

Thanks to all!

On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 14:12:50 -0600, wrote:

On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 11:45:04 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Mar 12, 9:10*am, gregz wrote:
"Doug" wrote:
On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 18:39:05 -0600, wrote:

Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. *Particularly when they get weathered. *I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. *I was thinking
about oiling all of them. *But with what? *Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? *Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. *I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. *But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

I'm no expert on this but I think my dad (builder and jack of all
trades) told me to use Linseed Oil a long time ago. * I don't know now
if there's anything better but that should get you by. *I guess no oil
could harmful but perhaps some are better for wood than others. Google
on linseed oil uses and see what they say.

Linseed oil takes a long time to dry, but might be good. Boiled linseed oil
will dry quicker or is it just thicker. You'll just smell like fish. I've
used boiled linseed oil on cars to help rustproof. It stinks for a couple
weeks, fishy.

Greg

Fishy?! sounds like it is adulterated. like most cooking oils now.

I had both boiled and unboiled and neither ever smelled fishy.

I used linseed oil (boiled), in high school wood shop and although it
was slow drying I never noticed a fishy odor. I also have a friend who
makes wooden items at his home and he uses it. The biggest concern with
linseed oil is throwing the rags away outdoors in a safe place because
they will self combust. I'll probably use this on the shovels and stuff.
Seems like a good waterproofer. I'm thinking about painting them after
the oil drys too, or maybe just using an oil base paint right from the
start, and give them a few coats.

Thanks to all!


Haven't heard of painting over linseed oil. Maybe no problem??? Let
us know how that turns out.

On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 15:31:52 -0500, "Doug"
wrote:



Haven't heard of painting over linseed oil. Maybe no problem??? Let
us know how that turns out.

I used to soak weathered window sashes with boiled linseed oil, wipe
off the excess, and paint. Oil based paint. Primer first.
Worked well.
Don't know about water based paint, and wouldn't do it without finding
out.
Linseed oil doesn't smell fishy.

--Vic

On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 15:59:17 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 15:31:52 -0500, "Doug"
wrote:



Haven't heard of painting over linseed oil. Maybe no problem??? Let
us know how that turns out.

I used to soak weathered window sashes with boiled linseed oil, wipe
off the excess, and paint. Oil based paint. Primer first.
Worked well.
Don't know about water based paint, and wouldn't do it without finding
out.
Linseed oil doesn't smell fishy.


BTW, I linseed oiled my tool handles. No paint.
Kept them all out of the weather.
Lasts forever if you reapply when you see any drying out.

wrote in message
...
Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that don't always happen. I was thinking
about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neat's-foot oil. I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

Once they are weathered and checked they will not degrade any further. So I
fill the cracks with wood filler and sand smooth when dry. Then coat with
Krylon Epoxy paint. Two coats (note time element for second coat). I use
red as it shows up good in grass areas. Never had to paint again even though
left out side some times. Works for me. WW

In article , wrote:
Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack

I've used marine spar varnish for quite a few years. It seems to hold up
well, and I figure if it's good enough for boats it's probably good enough for
my rake handle.

Art

"Doug" wrote:
On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 14:12:50 -0600, wrote:

On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 11:45:04 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Mar 12, 9:10 am, gregz wrote:
"Doug" wrote:
On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 18:39:05 -0600, wrote:

Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. I was thinking
about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

I'm no expert on this but I think my dad (builder and jack of all
trades) told me to use Linseed Oil a long time ago. I don't know now
if there's anything better but that should get you by. I guess no oil
could harmful but perhaps some are better for wood than others. Google
on linseed oil uses and see what they say.

Linseed oil takes a long time to dry, but might be good. Boiled linseed oil
will dry quicker or is it just thicker. You'll just smell like fish. I've
used boiled linseed oil on cars to help rustproof. It stinks for a couple
weeks, fishy.

Greg

Fishy?! sounds like it is adulterated. like most cooking oils now.

I had both boiled and unboiled and neither ever smelled fishy.

I used linseed oil (boiled), in high school wood shop and although it
was slow drying I never noticed a fishy odor. I also have a friend who
makes wooden items at his home and he uses it. The biggest concern with
linseed oil is throwing the rags away outdoors in a safe place because
they will self combust. I'll probably use this on the shovels and stuff.
Seems like a good waterproofer. I'm thinking about painting them after
the oil drys too, or maybe just using an oil base paint right from the
start, and give them a few coats.

Thanks to all!


Haven't heard of painting over linseed oil. Maybe no problem??? Let
us know how that turns out.

Linseed oil is an ingredient in some varnishes.

Greg

On Tue, 13 Mar 2012 00:05:22 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:


Haven't heard of painting over linseed oil. Maybe no problem??? Let
us know how that turns out.

It would have to be oil based paint. I'm almost sure latex would not
hold to oiled wood, and latex is not as durable or this application.

Linseed oil is an ingredient in some varnishes.

I think linseed oil is an ingredient in many oil based paints too.


Greg

On Mar 12, 1:12*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 11:45:04 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy





wrote:
On Mar 12, 9:10*am, gregz wrote:
"Doug" wrote:
On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 18:39:05 -0600, wrote:

Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. *Particularly when they get weathered. *I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. *I was thinking
about oiling all of them. *But with what? *Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? *Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. *I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. *But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

I'm no expert on this but I think my dad (builder and jack of all
trades) told me to use Linseed Oil a long time ago. * I don't know now
if there's anything better but that should get you by. *I guess no oil
could harmful but perhaps some are better for wood than others. Google
on linseed oil uses and see what they say.

Linseed oil takes a long time to dry, but might be good. Boiled linseed oil
will dry quicker or is it just thicker. You'll just smell like fish. I've
used boiled linseed oil on cars to help rustproof. It stinks for a couple
weeks, fishy.

Greg

Fishy?! sounds like it is adulterated. like most cooking oils now.

I had both boiled and unboiled and neither ever smelled fishy.

I used linseed oil (boiled), in high school wood shop and although it
was slow drying I never noticed a fishy odor. *I also have a friend who
makes wooden items at his home and he uses it. *The biggest concern with
linseed oil is throwing the rags away outdoors in a safe place because
they will self combust. I'll probably use this on the shovels and stuff.
Seems like a good waterproofer. *I'm thinking about painting them after
the oil drys too, or maybe just using an oil base paint right from the
start, and give them a few coats.

Thanks to all!

One last one, dip in that plastic coating material meant for tool
handles.

It's thick, soft, red/bright so you can find it, and as the finish
gets dirty from use, simply replace with another dip.

On Mar 13, 10:24*am, chaniarts wrote:
On 3/13/2012 9:10 AM, Robert Macy wrote:





On Mar 12, 1:12 pm, wrote:
On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 11:45:04 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy

*wrote:
On Mar 12, 9:10 am, *wrote:
*wrote:
On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 18:39:05 -0600, wrote:

Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. *Particularly when they get weathered. *I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. *I was thinking
about oiling all of them. *But with what? *Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? *Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. *I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. *But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

I'm no expert on this but I think my dad (builder and jack of all
trades) told me to use Linseed Oil a long time ago. * I don't know now
if there's anything better but that should get you by. *I guess no oil
could harmful but perhaps some are better for wood than others. Google
on linseed oil uses and see what they say.

Linseed oil takes a long time to dry, but might be good. Boiled linseed oil
will dry quicker or is it just thicker. You'll just smell like fish. I've
used boiled linseed oil on cars to help rustproof. It stinks for a couple
weeks, fishy.

Greg

Fishy?! sounds like it is adulterated. like most cooking oils now.

I had both boiled and unboiled and neither ever smelled fishy.

I used linseed oil (boiled), in high school wood shop and although it
was slow drying I never noticed a fishy odor. *I also have a friend who
makes wooden items at his home and he uses it. *The biggest concern with
linseed oil is throwing the rags away outdoors in a safe place because
they will self combust. I'll probably use this on the shovels and stuff.
Seems like a good waterproofer. *I'm thinking about painting them after
the oil drys too, or maybe just using an oil base paint right from the
start, and give them a few coats.

Thanks to all!

One last one, dip in that plastic coating material meant for tool
handles.

It's thick, soft, red/bright so you can find it, and as the finish
gets dirty from use, simply replace with another dip.

dip-it. it's expensive, so doing an entire handle would be a lot. also,
you'd have to brush it on since the can is only about 6" deep. it also
won't stick very well and will peel off.

damn!

On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 22:01:01 -0500, "Doug"
wrote:

:On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 18:39:05 -0600, wrote:
:
:Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
:dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
:best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. I was thinking
:about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
:maybe some linseed oil? Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
:them called Neatsfoot oil. I only did this because the bottle only had
:enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
:empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. But what is the
:recommended or best product for this?
:
:Thanks
:
:
:I'm no expert on this but I think my dad (builder and jack of all
:trades) told me to use Linseed Oil a long time ago. I don't know now
:if there's anything better but that should get you by. I guess no oil
:could harmful but perhaps some are better for wood than others. Google
n linseed oil uses and see what they say.

I more often than not varnish my long-handled tools like shovels, hows,
even the handles on my wheel barrow. Usually multiple coats. Also, I
like to keep them out of the sun unnecessarily. The UV will deteriorate
the finish over time. Varnished, the handles don't crack or weather and
they are easy on the hands, although they can feel a bit slick. That
doesn't bother me.


Email: dmusicant at sonic dot net

On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 15:31:52 -0500, "Doug"
wrote:

:On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 14:12:50 -0600, wrote:
:
:On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 11:45:04 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:
:
:On Mar 12, 9:10*am, gregz wrote:
: "Doug" wrote:
: On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 18:39:05 -0600, wrote:
:
: Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
: dry out and crack. *Particularly when they get weathered. *I know it's
: best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. *I was thinking
: about oiling all of them. *But with what? *Just plain motor oil, or
: maybe some linseed oil? *Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
: them called Neatsfoot oil. *I only did this because the bottle only had
: enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
: empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. *But what is the
: recommended or best product for this?
:
: Thanks
:
: I'm no expert on this but I think my dad (builder and jack of all
: trades) told me to use Linseed Oil a long time ago. * I don't know now
: if there's anything better but that should get you by. *I guess no oil
: could harmful but perhaps some are better for wood than others. Google
: on linseed oil uses and see what they say.
:
: Linseed oil takes a long time to dry, but might be good. Boiled linseed oil
: will dry quicker or is it just thicker. You'll just smell like fish. I've
: used boiled linseed oil on cars to help rustproof. It stinks for a couple
: weeks, fishy.
:
: Greg
:
:Fishy?! sounds like it is adulterated. like most cooking oils now.
:
:I had both boiled and unboiled and neither ever smelled fishy.
:
:I used linseed oil (boiled), in high school wood shop and although it
:was slow drying I never noticed a fishy odor. I also have a friend who
:makes wooden items at his home and he uses it. The biggest concern with
:linseed oil is throwing the rags away outdoors in a safe place because
:they will self combust. I'll probably use this on the shovels and stuff.
:Seems like a good waterproofer. I'm thinking about painting them after
:the oil drys too, or maybe just using an oil base paint right from the
:start, and give them a few coats.
:
:Thanks to all!
:
:
:Haven't heard of painting over linseed oil. Maybe no problem??? Let
:us know how that turns out.

I have shellaced over linseed oil after suitable drying period. It's
recommended.

When I did my bookshelves I basically did this:
1. Sanded and dusted the wood nicely.
2. Applied a 1/2# cut shellac coat to semi-seal it so BLO would
penetrate sufficiently but not enough to blotch.
3. Wiped on boilded linseed oil, wiped off after 5-10 minutes. Wiped off
well with old socks on my hands.
4. Let dry several days, longer if the weather wasn't so good.
5. Apply two coats full strength (3# cut?) orange shellac.
6. Applied two coats of furniture wax with 00 steel wool and buffed.

Came out very nice and beautiful.


Email: dmusicant at sonic dot net

On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 22:10:31 GMT, (Arthur
Shapiro) wrote:

:In article , wrote:
:Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
:dry out and crack
:
:I've used marine spar varnish for quite a few years. It seems to hold up
:well, and I figure if it's good enough for boats it's probably good enough for
:my rake handle.
:
:Art
I use similar, a varnish, usually 2-3 coats. Also, keep out of the sun
when possible, don't just let them sit in the sun.

Dan


Email: dmusicant at sonic dot net

On Sunday, March 11, 2012 8:39:05 PM UTC-4, (unknown) wrote:
Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. I was thinking
about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

My dad used linseed oil mixed with turpentine half and half. Ive used the same to treat window sills.

Jimmie

On Mar 11, 8:39*pm, wrote:
I was thinking
about oiling all of them. *But with what?

That isn't necessary, IME. Just get a fire going and toss them on,
mine burned just fine without any accelerants.
-----

- gpsman

On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 18:59:36 -0700, Dan Musicant wrote:

On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 22:01:01 -0500, "Doug"
wrote:

:On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 18:39:05 -0600, wrote:
:
:Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
:dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
:best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. I was thinking
:about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
:maybe some linseed oil? Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
:them called Neatsfoot oil. I only did this because the bottle only had
:enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
:empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. But what is the
:recommended or best product for this?
:
:Thanks
:
:
:I'm no expert on this but I think my dad (builder and jack of all
:trades) told me to use Linseed Oil a long time ago. I don't know now
:if there's anything better but that should get you by. I guess no oil
:could harmful but perhaps some are better for wood than others. Google
n linseed oil uses and see what they say.

I more often than not varnish my long-handled tools like shovels, hows,
even the handles on my wheel barrow. Usually multiple coats. Also, I
like to keep them out of the sun unnecessarily. The UV will deteriorate
the finish over time. Varnished, the handles don't crack or weather and
they are easy on the hands, although they can feel a bit slick. That
doesn't bother me.

Fiberglass handles make all that unnecessary (still want to keep them out of
the sun).

On Mar 17, 8:21*am, JIMMIE wrote:
On Sunday, March 11, 2012 8:39:05 PM UTC-4, (unknown) wrote:
Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. *Particularly when they get weathered. *I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. *I was thinking
about oiling all of them. *But with what? *Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? *Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. *I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. *But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

My dad used linseed oil mixed with turpentine half and half. Ive used the same to treat window sills.

Jimmie

It is my understanding that the FIRST coat is a 50-50 mix because the
turpentine acts as a carrier and drags the BLO deep into the wood's
porosity. After that cures, the coating can NEVER go deeper. So, that
first coating make as deep as possible, else you'll have shallow film
over the wood's surface, not complete encorporation into the wood
itself. That was what I was told.

On Mar 17, 9:18*am, "
wrote:
On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 18:59:36 -0700, Dan Musicant wrote:
On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 22:01:01 -0500, "Doug"
wrote:

:On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 18:39:05 -0600, wrote:
:
:Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
:dry out and crack. *Particularly when they get weathered. *I know it's
:best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. *I was thinking
:about oiling all of them. *But with what? *Just plain motor oil, or
:maybe some linseed oil? *Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
:them called Neatsfoot oil. *I only did this because the bottle only had
:enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
:empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. *But what is the
:recommended or best product for this?
:
:Thanks
:
:
:I'm no expert on this but I think my dad (builder and jack of all
:trades) told me to use Linseed Oil a long time ago. * I don't know now
:if there's anything better but that should get you by. *I guess no oil
:could harmful but perhaps some are better for wood than others. Google
n linseed oil uses and see what they say.

I more often than not varnish my long-handled tools like shovels, hows,
even the handles on my wheel barrow. Usually multiple coats. Also, I
like to keep them out of the sun unnecessarily. The UV will deteriorate
the finish over time. Varnished, the handles don't crack or weather and
they are easy on the hands, although they can feel a bit slick. That
doesn't bother me.

Fiberglass handles make all that unnecessary (still want to keep them out of
the sun).

Second that! the 'tubes' I saw had their fibres running lengthwise,
been left out for a year. Deterioration was so bad that the glass
fibres were sticking out all over like wisps of hair. In the sunlight
the effect produced a beautiful sheen. Our technician picked it up saw
how shiny it was and slid his cupped hand down the handle. He stopped
abruptly, and said, "I wish I hadn't done that" to display a myriad of
broken fibres now inbedded in his hand and now the shiny glow of wisps
in the sun had transferred to his palm. His hand didn't bleed, just
looked like a minature pin cushion of glass fibres. I still wince
today thinkingabout it.

On Sat, 17 Mar 2012 12:18:58 -0400, "
wrote:


Fiberglass handles make all that unnecessary (still want to keep them out of
the sun).

Bingo.

On Sat, 17 Mar 2012 10:54:08 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Mar 17, 8:21Â*am, JIMMIE wrote:
On Sunday, March 11, 2012 8:39:05 PM UTC-4, (unknown) wrote:
Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. Â*Particularly when they get weathered. Â*I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. Â*I was thinking
about oiling all of them. Â*But with what? Â*Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? Â*Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. Â*I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. Â*But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

My dad used linseed oil mixed with turpentine half and half. Ive used the same to treat window sills.

Jimmie

It is my understanding that the FIRST coat is a 50-50 mix because the
turpentine acts as a carrier and drags the BLO deep into the wood's
porosity. After that cures, the coating can NEVER go deeper. So, that
first coating make as deep as possible, else you'll have shallow film
over the wood's surface, not complete encorporation into the wood
itself. That was what I was told.

Won't argue with that.
But I never cut it with turps, and weathered wood would be sucking up
more the next day on the 3rd application. It's very slow to dry.
You have to wipe off the excess and then rub the surface with rags to
get rid of the oiliness. I'd paint it a few days after that.
Oil paint.
Fine for tool handles, and sealing up weathered wood.
Not good for nicely grained furniture because it darkens up and the
grain starts to disappear after a few years.
BTDT.

--Vic

On Sunday, March 11, 2012 at 6:39:05 PM UTC-6, wrote:
Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. I was thinking
about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

Tung Oil

wrote:
On Sunday, March 11, 2012 at 6:39:05 PM UTC-6, wrote:
Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. I was thinking
about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

Tung Oil

I just buy new one. By the time handle gets rough shape, blade is
pretty worn, LOL. I still like wooden handle I don't like fiberglass one.

On Sunday, March 11, 2012 at 6:39:05 PM UTC-6, wrote:

Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. I was thinking
about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil?

Simplest solution is linseed oil and a cotton glove (to spread
it evenly everywhere on the handle once a year.) Ash makes
the best handles, viz. strong and crack-resistant.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 17:52:01 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Sunday, March 11, 2012 at 6:39:05 PM UTC-6, wrote:
Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. I was thinking
about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

Tung Oil

I treat mine with regular motor oil. Just buy some cheap oil and rub it
on with a rag. Then let it sit in the sun for a day, and give it a
second coat. After another day in the sun, wipe the handle with a dry
rag to remove any excess, and you're ready to use the shovel.

wrote:
On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 17:52:01 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Sunday, March 11, 2012 at 6:39:05 PM UTC-6, wrote:
Over time the wooden handles on shovels and other garden tools tend to
dry out and crack. Particularly when they get weathered. I know it's
best to keep them indoors, but that dont always happen. I was thinking
about oiling all of them. But with what? Just plain motor oil, or
maybe some linseed oil? Actually I just tried some saddle oil on one of
them called Neatsfoot oil. I only did this because the bottle only had
enough in it to do one handle and I wanted to get rid of the nearly
empty bottle which was just wasting shelf space. But what is the
recommended or best product for this?

Thanks

Tung Oil

I treat mine with regular motor oil. Just buy some cheap oil and rub it
on with a rag. Then let it sit in the sun for a day, and give it a
second coat. After another day in the sun, wipe the handle with a dry
rag to remove any excess, and you're ready to use the shovel.

I put motor oil on my axe handles.

Greg