My range hood vent died recently so I decided to replace it.
BUT the circuits in the breaker box are poorly marked.
Just want to know if I am correct inassuming the 240 volts to the stove
would not normally be somehow split to power the 120 volt range hood.
Any hints on the project?

Tia

Lou

On 1/16/2012 4:59 PM, LouB wrote:
My range hood vent died recently so I decided to replace it.
BUT the circuits in the breaker box are poorly marked.
Just want to know if I am correct inassuming the 240 volts to the stove
would not normally be somehow split to power the 120 volt range hood.
Any hints on the project?

Tia

Lou

It definitely shouldn't be connected to the range line unless the hood
is an integral part of the range. If it's just a standard basic hood,
it's probably on the same circuit as the lights in the kitchen, or some
other lighting circuit

Get a "voltage detector". Turn off the stove breaker, and see if the wire
still beeps.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"LouB" wrote in message
...
My range hood vent died recently so I decided to replace it.
BUT the circuits in the breaker box are poorly marked.
Just want to know if I am correct inassuming the 240 volts to the stove
would not normally be somehow split to power the 120 volt range hood.
Any hints on the project?

Tia

Lou

On 1/16/2012 3:59 PM, LouB wrote:
My range hood vent died recently so I decided to replace it.
BUT the circuits in the breaker box are poorly marked.
Just want to know if I am correct inassuming the 240 volts to the stove
would not normally be somehow split to power the 120 volt range hood.
Any hints on the project?

Tia

Lou

I often use The Jesus method to find breakers. You take a plug with a
couple of lengths of insulated wire sticking out about a foot then strip
a half inch of insulation off the ends of the wires then plug it in
making sure the wires don't touch, yet. Hold the wires apart, turn your
head, close your eyes, touch the two ends of the bare wire together and
shout "JESUS!" during the resulting flash and small explosion. It's also
a good way to test your circuit breakers. ^_^

TDD

Real electricians just use a six inch length of 14 gage insulated wire, bent
into U shape, and ends stripped.

One real electrician I saw, used a length of plug and wire, work box, and a
BIG push button.

Doubt that Tia's range hood has a socket to use.

The Jesus method works less well, on FPE Stablock panels, where it is also
the WTF method, as your wire melts in your hand. My neighbor found out that
his FPE Stablock panel didn't turn off the water heater power, when he
turned off the water heater breaker.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

I often use The Jesus method to find breakers. You take a plug with a
couple of lengths of insulated wire sticking out about a foot then strip
a half inch of insulation off the ends of the wires then plug it in
making sure the wires don't touch, yet. Hold the wires apart, turn your
head, close your eyes, touch the two ends of the bare wire together and
shout "JESUS!" during the resulting flash and small explosion. It's also
a good way to test your circuit breakers. ^_^

TDD

Some people have been known to see Jesus during such an operation.

I was working with a friend, and he was working on an overhead circuit,
lighting. I asked if it would be a good idea to turn off the power. He had
turned off the MAIN, or so he thought. Problem is, that the MAIN was
actually the feed to the WATER HEATER, and he was working on a CIRCUIT that
was live. It was DAY TIME, so I turned off the REST of the breakers. Much
SAFER.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

shout "JESUS!" during the resulting flash and small explosion. It's also
a good way to test your circuit breakers. ^_^

TDD

Does Jesus come and help?

No, it's NOT connected to the 240v. Either the light circuit or a
nearby outlet.

If the light works in it, turn on the light and shut off breakers till
it goes off.

Otherwise just shut off the house MAIN, disonnect the two wires beneath
a small panel (look for a screw on a panel). Then cap the wires coming
from the wall, and turn the power back on. If you want, before capping
them, put a tester on those wires and turn on the power MAIN. Then turn
off each breaker one by one till you find the one for that hood.

That's when you shut off the breaker and cap those wires till you repair
or replace the hood.

LouB wrote in :

My range hood vent died recently so I decided to replace it.
BUT the circuits in the breaker box are poorly marked.
Just want to know if I am correct inassuming the 240 volts to the stove
would not normally be somehow split to power the 120 volt range hood.
Any hints on the project?



As stated by RBM, the range light will most likely be on the same circuit
as the kitchen lights.

The stove is on its own breaker, as will be the dryer, and other high-draw
appliances. Since the stove is a 240V appliance, there may be two breakers
linked together with a crossbar (I say "may" because I'm not an electrical
expert, and I'm guessing that it's possible that some houses may have
single-switched 240V breakers).

Here's a tip for a one-time reconciliation of lights & breakers throughout
the house:
1) turn on all the lights in the entire house;
2) trip one of the single breakers;
3) walk around and see what turned off;
4) write down the relevant info next to that breaker.
Repeat from #2 with the next breaker.

Use a desk-lamp, drill, night-light, or other small electrical device to
check the outlets to see if they're on the same circuit as the lights.

Next time you need to shut off a specific circuit, you'll know exactly
which breaker to trip.


--
Tegger

On 1/16/2012 4:48 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 16:23:12 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 1/16/2012 3:59 PM, LouB wrote:
My range hood vent died recently so I decided to replace it.
BUT the circuits in the breaker box are poorly marked.
Just want to know if I am correct inassuming the 240 volts to the stove
would not normally be somehow split to power the 120 volt range hood.
Any hints on the project?

Tia

Lou

I often use The Jesus method to find breakers. You take a plug with a
couple of lengths of insulated wire sticking out about a foot then strip
a half inch of insulation off the ends of the wires then plug it in
making sure the wires don't touch, yet. Hold the wires apart, turn your
head, close your eyes, touch the two ends of the bare wire together and
shout "JESUS!" during the resulting flash and small explosion. It's also
a good way to test your circuit breakers. ^_^

TDD

Does Jesus come and help?

No, it's NOT connected to the 240v. Either the light circuit or a
nearby outlet.

If the light works in it, turn on the light and shut off breakers till
it goes off.

Otherwise just shut off the house MAIN, disonnect the two wires beneath
a small panel (look for a screw on a panel). Then cap the wires coming
from the wall, and turn the power back on. If you want, before capping
them, put a tester on those wires and turn on the power MAIN. Then turn
off each breaker one by one till you find the one for that hood.

That's when you shut off the breaker and cap those wires till you repair
or replace the hood.


I forgot, you can get a light bulb socket adapter to plug in your two
prong electrical plug. ^_^

TDD

On 1/16/2012 5:59 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Real electricians just use a six inch length of 14 gage insulated wire, bent
into U shape, and ends stripped.

One real electrician I saw, used a length of plug and wire, work box, and a
BIG push button.

Doubt that Tia's range hood has a socket to use.

The Jesus method works less well, on FPE Stablock panels, where it is also
the WTF method, as your wire melts in your hand. My neighbor found out that
his FPE Stablock panel didn't turn off the water heater power, when he
turned off the water heater breaker.


I never stick a shorting wire into an outlet because the arc can damage
the internal contact surfaces inside the outlet leading to a bad
connection. Real electricians know this. o_O

TDD

On 1/16/2012 6:04 PM, Tegger wrote:
wrote in :

My range hood vent died recently so I decided to replace it.
BUT the circuits in the breaker box are poorly marked.
Just want to know if I am correct inassuming the 240 volts to the stove
would not normally be somehow split to power the 120 volt range hood.
Any hints on the project?



As stated by RBM, the range light will most likely be on the same circuit
as the kitchen lights.

The stove is on its own breaker, as will be the dryer, and other high-draw
appliances. Since the stove is a 240V appliance, there may be two breakers
linked together with a crossbar (I say "may" because I'm not an electrical
expert, and I'm guessing that it's possible that some houses may have
single-switched 240V breakers).

Here's a tip for a one-time reconciliation of lights& breakers throughout
the house:
1) turn on all the lights in the entire house;
2) trip one of the single breakers;
3) walk around and see what turned off;
4) write down the relevant info next to that breaker.
Repeat from #2 with the next breaker.

Use a desk-lamp, drill, night-light, or other small electrical device to
check the outlets to see if they're on the same circuit as the lights.

Next time you need to shut off a specific circuit, you'll know exactly
which breaker to trip.



A table radio tuned to a Hip Hop station and the audio wide open gives
you an incentive to quickly find the breaker that turns it off. ^_^

TDD

The Daring Dufas wrote in
:



A table radio tuned to a Hip Hop station and the audio wide open gives
you an incentive to quickly find the breaker that turns it off. ^_^



Dat be dope, yo.


--
Tegger

On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 16:59:52 -0500, LouB wrote:

My range hood vent died recently so I decided to replace it.
BUT the circuits in the breaker box are poorly marked.
Just want to know if I am correct inassuming the 240 volts to the stove
would not normally be somehow split to power the 120 volt range hood.
Any hints on the project?

Yes. They're not connected, or when you pulled the stove out from the
wal, to clean or replace itl, in addition to its cord, it would have
other wires from the stove to the wall to power the range hood. None
have that.

My range hood is supplied from the same breaker and junction box as my
dining room chandelier. The dining room is on the other side of the
wall from the stove.

Tia

Lou

On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 18:11:21 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:


I never stick a shorting wire into an outlet because the arc can damage
the internal contact surfaces inside the outlet leading to a bad
connection. Real electricians know this. o_O

That's right. They use their fingers, which won't melt.

TDD

On 01/16/2012 04:23 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 1/16/2012 3:59 PM, LouB wrote:
My range hood vent died recently so I decided to replace it.
BUT the circuits in the breaker box are poorly marked.
Just want to know if I am correct inassuming the 240 volts to the stove
would not normally be somehow split to power the 120 volt range hood.
Any hints on the project?

Tia

Lou

I often use The Jesus method to find breakers. You take a plug with a
couple of lengths of insulated wire sticking out about a foot then strip
a half inch of insulation off the ends of the wires then plug it in
making sure the wires don't touch, yet. Hold the wires apart, turn your
head, close your eyes, touch the two ends of the bare wire together and
shout "JESUS!" during the resulting flash and small explosion. It's also
a good way to test your circuit breakers. ^_^

TDD

Make sure your fire insurance is up to date first, because you can burn
down your house that way. Google it if you doubt me.

To check sockets, use a loud radio with music you hate. The breaker that
turns the noise on and off.....

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Tegger" wrote in message
...
LouB wrote in :

Here's a tip for a one-time reconciliation of lights & breakers throughout
the house:
1) turn on all the lights in the entire house;
2) trip one of the single breakers;
3) walk around and see what turned off;
4) write down the relevant info next to that breaker.
Repeat from #2 with the next breaker.

Use a desk-lamp, drill, night-light, or other small electrical device to
check the outlets to see if they're on the same circuit as the lights.

Next time you need to shut off a specific circuit, you'll know exactly
which breaker to trip.


--
Tegger

Nothing like having a thread-in Jesus cord. Man, I could sing that.

He is my light!
He is my Lord!
I'll cross the ends
Of my Thread-in Jesus cord

I'll meet my maker
I'll trip my breaker
I'll trip the switch
With my UL rated thread in Jesus cord

I'm shutting off switches
I long for no riches
I'll be a poor man
Using my UL rated thread in Jesus cord.

Key of F, 4/4 tempo. Play it low, and slow. Plenty of bass.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...


That's when you shut off the breaker and cap those wires till you repair
or replace the hood.


I forgot, you can get a light bulb socket adapter to plug in your two
prong electrical plug. ^_^

TDD

Works, when one is about to replace a range, or an outlet.

I have a home made Off and Pop. Made it with a 15 amp switch, but the arc
fused the switch. Made it the next time with a 20 amp SPST, which has been
working, since then. I havn't been able to find a heavy enough SPST push
button.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...
On 1/16/2012 5:59 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Real electricians just use a six inch length of 14 gage insulated wire,
bent
into U shape, and ends stripped.

One real electrician I saw, used a length of plug and wire, work box, and
a
BIG push button.

Doubt that Tia's range hood has a socket to use.

The Jesus method works less well, on FPE Stablock panels, where it is also
the WTF method, as your wire melts in your hand. My neighbor found out
that
his FPE Stablock panel didn't turn off the water heater power, when he
turned off the water heater breaker.


I never stick a shorting wire into an outlet because the arc can damage
the internal contact surfaces inside the outlet leading to a bad
connection. Real electricians know this. o_O

TDD

I did not read yours first. Honest.

If you're deaf, use a 100 foot extension cord, and run a light to where the
panel box is. I SAID!!!! IF YOU'RE DEAF!!! RUN A 100 FOOT EXTENSION CORD AND
RUN A LIGHT TO WHERE THE PANEL BOX IS!!!!!

Well, it loses something along the way.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

A table radio tuned to a Hip Hop station and the audio wide open gives
you an incentive to quickly find the breaker that turns it off. ^_^

TDD

On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 20:18:47 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 18:11:21 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:


I never stick a shorting wire into an outlet because the arc can damage
the internal contact surfaces inside the outlet leading to a bad
connection. Real electricians know this. o_O

That's right. They use their fingers, which won't melt.

TDD
Any electrican worth his salt carries a voltage detector in his shirt
pocket. An NE2 bulb in a little plastic case with 2 leads on it. Stick
the leeds into a plug, or touch a wire, and touch the other lead with
your pinkie. If it lights, it's live. If it doesn't, it's dead..
And set up a shotgun aimed at the panel to get any stupid bugger that
turns a breaker back on (if you don't have a physical lock-out)

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 20:18:47 -0500, micky
wrote:
TDD
Any electrican worth his salt carries a voltage detector in his shirt
pocket. An NE2 bulb in a little plastic case with 2 leads on it. Stick
the leeds into a plug, or touch a wire, and touch the other lead with
your pinkie. If it lights, it's live. If it doesn't, it's dead..
And set up a shotgun aimed at the panel to get any stupid bugger that
turns a breaker back on (if you don't have a physical lock-out)

An electrician friend pulled a power meter to a church. While working on
the wiring, he was shocked very bad. Went out side and someone had put the
meter back in the meter base.

On Jan 16, 10:26*pm, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:
wrote in message

...

On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 20:18:47 -0500, micky
wrote:
TDD
Any electrican worth his salt carries a voltage detector in his shirt
pocket. An NE2 bulb in a little plastic case with 2 leads on it. Stick
the leeds into a plug, or touch a wire, and touch the other lead with
your pinkie. If it lights, it's live. If it doesn't, it's dead..
And set up a shotgun aimed at the panel to get any stupid bugger that
turns a breaker back on (if you don't have a physical lock-out)

An electrician friend pulled *a power meter to a church. *While working on
the wiring, he was shocked very bad. *Went out side and someone had put the
meter back in the meter base.

Sounds like your electrician friend was too trusting...

Should have locked the meter in his truck while working on the power
OR
stationed someone at the meter base to prevent someone from re-
energizing
the circuit while the work was being performed...

Probably was a bad idea to leave the meter socket uncovered as part of
it
remains energized at all times unless the service drop is disconnected
and
whomever was dumb enough to put the meter back in the base could have
touched the live parts inside and gotten hurt on your friend's dime as
he left
energized electrical equipment open where anyone could have wandered
over
to touch it, but then again this is why contractors are required to
have liability
insurance coverage...

~~ Evan

On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 22:26:06 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:




An electrician friend pulled a power meter to a church. While working on
the wiring, he was shocked very bad. Went out side and someone had put the
meter back in the meter base.


That is why OSHA requires a lock out tag. I can't imagine what the
guy was thinking when he put it back in.

Living color..... RED!

Wow, that's got to have been a rough job, doing electric with that kind of
tenants. I'm sure you've had many more experiences which were every bit as
miserable.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 19:02:12 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Some people have been known to see Jesus during such an operation.

I should know better than to use that name with you around here.....
However, if someone grabs both wires they might see him in living color
(Panavision)!!!

I was working with a friend, and he was working on an overhead circuit,
lighting. I asked if it would be a good idea to turn off the power. He had
turned off the MAIN, or so he thought. Problem is, that the MAIN was
actually the feed to the WATER HEATER, and he was working on a CIRCUIT that
was live. It was DAY TIME, so I turned off the REST of the breakers. Much
SAFER.

The Main should ALWAYS be labelled "MAIN" Personally I label all
breakers, even if it dont list every outlet, at least some sort of idea
what that one is for. But an electrician MUST label the main. Not sure
if code requires it, but breaker boxes always come with the labels, it's
not hard to stick em' on.

Sometimes a panel contains TWO or more Mains too....

What I had problems with were old buildings that had multiple
apartments, and were originally just large single homes. In those you
never know what meter/panel is feeding which apartment. When I worked
for a rental company and had to service these places, they were a
nightmare. One tenant would be paying 90% of the bill and the others
paid the rest. Of course the owners didn't want to pay to rewire, so I
just had to swap around wires as best as I could. I knew better than to
touch any wire without putting a tester on it first. Yet, there were
several times that the sparks would come flying out of a box because of
old dried up insulation and the power from the wrong apt.

Then there was the drug addict who laid in bed shooting holes in the
ceiling with a handgun (because of flys on the ceiling). Shot right
thru a BX cable up in the attic, not to mention the holes in the roof.
The idiot started shooting while I was there to fix that BX. I left.
Told the owner to call me back when the guy was in prison. (I did not
turn the power back on when I left either). That night the cops hauled
him away. Then I fixed the wiring, and he had to reroof the place too.
Amazing how stupid some people are....

I was glad to quit that job. All the properties were ghetto houses.

I wonder how many people went to check, see who was at the door?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

One of my favorite testers was just a simple socket with pigtail wires.
I put two insulated alligator clips on the wires, and kept a small
lightbulb in it. Just clip it on the wires and watch it while flipping
the breakers. The only problem was that sometimes I could not see the
light, so I made another one by mounting a doorbell and transformer on a
board, with alligator clips on a wire. (no push button). Clip it on
the wire and flip breakers till the bell starts sounding. It was a loud
bell so I could hear it from other floors in the bldg.
Radios work too if you're just doing outlets!!!

"Hey, look! That meter thingie fell out of the box. Or them kids were
messing around. In either case, I'd better put it back."

(Ought to be some way to cover the meter hole, so people don't touch the hot
wires. And put the meter in your vehicle, lock the door.)

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 22:26:06 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:




An electrician friend pulled a power meter to a church. While working on
the wiring, he was shocked very bad. Went out side and someone had put the
meter back in the meter base.


That is why OSHA requires a lock out tag. I can't imagine what the
guy was thinking when he put it back in.

On 1/17/2012 7:24 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
"Hey, look! That meter thingie fell out of the box. Or them kids were
messing around. In either case, I'd better put it back."

(Ought to be some way to cover the meter hole, so people don't touch the hot
wires. And put the meter in your vehicle, lock the door.)

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Ed wrote in message
...
On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 22:26:06 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:




An electrician friend pulled a power meter to a church. While working on
the wiring, he was shocked very bad. Went out side and someone had put the
meter back in the meter base.


That is why OSHA requires a lock out tag. I can't imagine what the
guy was thinking when he put it back in.



yes, it's called duct tape and a magic marker. duh. or take the meter
with you. I had the power company want to charge me for 20 kw/h one
month on a house we had up in the air putting a new foundation under it.
I told them on the phone, "hey you better try again, I pulled that
meter 6 weeks ago and it's in my truck". They had also come out and
disconnected the drop at the pole. They cancelled the bill.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Jan 16, 4:59*pm, LouB wrote:
My range hood vent died recently so I decided to replace it.
BUT the circuits in the breaker box are poorly marked.
Just want to know if I am correct inassuming the 240 volts to the stove
would not normally be somehow split to power the 120 volt range hood.

What difference does it make?

Turn off the breakers until there's no power to the hood. Simple.

On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 05:54:51 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 22:26:06 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:




An electrician friend pulled a power meter to a church. While working on
the wiring, he was shocked very bad. Went out side and someone had put the
meter back in the meter base.


That is why OSHA requires a lock out tag. I can't imagine what the
guy was thinking when he put it back in.
Obviously wasn't.
Likely wanted to use his skill-saw or trouble lamp and decided he was
more important than anyone/anything else.

Lots of those BOZOs out there - and a lockout tag doesn't mean
anything because they don't read anything without airbrushed glossy
pictures.

On Jan 16, 4:59*pm, LouB wrote:
My range hood vent died recently so I decided to replace it.
BUT the circuits in the breaker box are poorly marked.
Just want to know if I am correct inassuming the 240 volts to the stove
would not normally be somehow split to power the 120 volt range hood.
Any hints on the project?

Tia

Lou

Whenever I want to locate a breaker I use a little circuit I made up
to power a Sonalert. These things are loud and can be heard next door.
One of the side effects of this the device is that the sound is so
obnoxious it will motivate people in the house to help you when they
otherwise would not. If the Sonalert isnt loud enough get a Klaxon
horn. The neighbors will come over and help.

Jimmie

JIMMIE wrote:
On Jan 16, 4:59 pm, LouB wrote:
My range hood vent died recently so I decided to replace it.
BUT the circuits in the breaker box are poorly marked.
Just want to know if I am correct inassuming the 240 volts to the
stove would not normally be somehow split to power the 120 volt
range hood. Any hints on the project?

Tia

Lou

Whenever I want to locate a breaker I use a little circuit I made up
to power a Sonalert. These things are loud and can be heard next door.
One of the side effects of this the device is that the sound is so
obnoxious it will motivate people in the house to help you when they
otherwise would not. If the Sonalert isnt loud enough get a Klaxon
horn. The neighbors will come over and help.


Considerably quieter is the "Circuit Breaker Detective" ($20) he
http://www.harborfreight.com/circuit...ive-96934.html

If it's too loud, do what I do. turn off your hearing aids, and leave the
Sonalert on for a while longer.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"JIMMIE" wrote in message
...

Whenever I want to locate a breaker I use a little circuit I made up
to power a Sonalert. These things are loud and can be heard next door.
One of the side effects of this the device is that the sound is so
obnoxious it will motivate people in the house to help you when they
otherwise would not. If the Sonalert isnt loud enough get a Klaxon
horn. The neighbors will come over and help.

Jimmie

Hey, my name isn't catchy like Godwin, but I'm going to make Young's Law
Two. A home repair thread isn't complete, until someone posts a link to a
Harbor Freight product.

I have spoken. Make it so.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"HeyBub" wrote in message
news
Considerably quieter is the "Circuit Breaker Detective" ($20) he
http://www.harborfreight.com/circuit...ive-96934.html

"Evan" wrote in message
...
On Jan 16, 10:26 pm, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:
wrote in message

...

On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 20:18:47 -0500, micky
wrote:
TDD
Any electrican worth his salt carries a voltage detector in his shirt
pocket. An NE2 bulb in a little plastic case with 2 leads on it. Stick
the leeds into a plug, or touch a wire, and touch the other lead with
your pinkie. If it lights, it's live. If it doesn't, it's dead..
And set up a shotgun aimed at the panel to get any stupid bugger that
turns a breaker back on (if you don't have a physical lock-out)

An electrician friend pulled a power meter to a church. While working on
the wiring, he was shocked very bad. Went out side and someone had put the
meter back in the meter base.

Sounds like your electrician friend was too trusting...

The guy who put it back in probably thought some pranksters had removed it.
But electricians and elevator mechanics eventually learn to put up big, "OUT
OF SERVICE" signs if they still want to buy liability insurance at
affordable (or ANY) rates. Business insurers have been very active at
either removing or "rating" customers that have a history of safety issues.

Should have locked the meter in his truck while working on the power OR
stationed someone at the meter base to prevent someone from re-energizing
the circuit while the work was being performed...

If he lived, he'll probably never do it again.

Probably was a bad idea to leave the meter socket uncovered as part of it
remains energized at all times unless the service drop is disconnected and
whomever was dumb enough to put the meter back in the base could have
touched the live parts inside and gotten hurt on your friend's dime as he
left energized electrical equipment open where anyone could have wandered
over to touch it, but then again this is why contractors are required to
have liability insurance coverage...

Insurance, but not smarts. There were a number of serious violations that
happened in this case which produced a very bad outcome.

--
Bobby G.