Hello,

I ran out of oil. after filling the tank and bleeding the line the furnace
came on but it seems like its only coming on to heat the water. I get hot
water from the furnace. The baseboard heaters are barley getting warm. it
seem like the system is shutting down once water is hot but the temperature
in the house is as low as it can go on the thermostat. if i run the hot
water the furnace will come back on but stops soon after the hot water is
off. i turned both thermostats down all the way for about 10 mins then
back on and the furnace still wont come on from that. what could be the
problem.

thank you

On Jan 15, 9:30*am, BM BM2home.com wrote:
Hello,

I ran out of oil. *after filling the tank and bleeding the line the furnace
came on but it seems like its only coming on to heat the water. *I get hot
water from the furnace. *The baseboard heaters are barley getting warm. *it
seem like the system is shutting down once water is hot but the temperature
in the house is as low as it can go on the thermostat. * if i run the hot
water the furnace will come back on but stops soon after the hot water is
off. *i turned both thermostats down all the way for about 10 mins then
back on and the furnace still wont come on from that. *what could be the
problem.

thank you

Try turning off the breaker for the furnace for 20 seconds or so...and
then re-start it.

Bob_Villa wrote in
:



Try turning off the breaker for the furnace for 20 seconds or so...and
then re-start it.




turning the breaker off and on didnt make a differnece. when i take the
thermostat off the wall and make contact with the two wires i think the
furnace should come on but it dosent.

On Jan 15, 10:11*am, BM BM2home.com wrote:
Bob_Villa wrote :



Try turning off the breaker for the furnace for 20 seconds or so...and
then re-start it.

turning the breaker off and on didnt make a differnece. * when i take the
thermostat off the wall and make contact with the two wires i think the
furnace should come on but it dosent.

Is there a diagnostic board (LED's) that you can trouble-shoot the
problem?

On Jan 15, 11:19*am, Bob_Villa wrote:
On Jan 15, 10:11*am, BM BM2home.com wrote:

Bob_Villa wrote :

Try turning off the breaker for the furnace for 20 seconds or so...and
then re-start it.

turning the breaker off and on didnt make a differnece. * when i take the
thermostat off the wall and make contact with the two wires i think the
furnace should come on but it dosent.

Is there a diagnostic board (LED's) that you can trouble-shoot the
problem?

Is the circulator pump running? If not, is it
getting power? If the pump isn't running, you'd
have hot water, but no circulation in the radiators.
That shouldn't have anything to do with running
out of oil, perhaps its a coincidence.

On 15 Jan 2012 15:30:04 GMT, BM BM2home.com wrote:

Hello,

I ran out of oil. after filling the tank and bleeding the line the furnace
came on but it seems like its only coming on to heat the water. I get hot
water from the furnace. The baseboard heaters are barley getting warm. it
seem like the system is shutting down once water is hot but the temperature
in the house is as low as it can go on the thermostat. if i run the hot
water the furnace will come back on but stops soon after the hot water is
off. i turned both thermostats down all the way for about 10 mins then
back on and the furnace still wont come on from that. what could be the
problem.

thank you


I'm not familiar with some of the newer control possibilities, but I'd
look for a reset someplace. Normally, there is one that prevents the
burner from going on after a few tries, as in out of oil, but perhaps
there is another that tripped for the heating portion, but not the hot
water. The reset may be a button on top of a box, or it may be inside
a control panel.

Is there a diagnostic board (LED's) that you can trouble-shoot the
problem?



there are no diagnostics. the pipes are getting very hot coming out of the
furnace. it seems like the water is not circulating.

the system is only one year old. everything was replaced. i now how to
turn the system back on when its locked out.

when i pull the fuse to the electric box for the circulator motors i can
hear them turn on, so something is going on inside ther. maybe it just
takes several hours for the water to circulate enough to start heating the
house, but that dosent seem normal.

On 1/15/2012 10:30 AM, BM wrote:
Hello,

I ran out of oil. after filling the tank and bleeding the line the furnace
came on but it seems like its only coming on to heat the water. I get hot
water from the furnace. The baseboard heaters are barley getting warm. it
seem like the system is shutting down once water is hot but the temperature
in the house is as low as it can go on the thermostat. if i run the hot
water the furnace will come back on but stops soon after the hot water is
off. i turned both thermostats down all the way for about 10 mins then
back on and the furnace still wont come on from that. what could be the
problem.

thank you


You are barking up the wrong tree. first off, it is a boiler not a
furnace. If it makes hot water, the issue is not with the boiler, it's
with the heating zone system. First you need to describe the components .
Is the hot water, from a coil within the boiler, or do you have an
indirect tank?
How many heating zones?
Do you have circulator pumps or zone valves, and how many of each?
What type of switching relays, aquastats etc. do you have?

On 15 Jan 2012 18:00:39 GMT, BM BM2home.com wrote:

the system is only one year old. everything was replaced. i now how to
turn the system back on when its locked out.

when i pull the fuse to the electric box for the circulator motors i can
hear them turn on, so something is going on inside ther. maybe it just
takes several hours for the water to circulate enough to start heating the
house, but that dosent seem normal.

It is not normal. I'm not sure what fuse you are pulling though. When
you pull a fuse, things stop.

You have to understand the system to diagnose though. The thermostat
does not turn on the burner. It turns on the circulator. The water
starts to circulate and when the temperature in the heater cools down,
an aquastat starts the burner. When it reaches the desired
temperature, the burner stops, but water keeps on circulating.

When the thermostat reaches the desired temperature, it turns off the
circulator. The burner may or may not be running. It will run long
enough to bring the water up to the "reserve" temperature.

What I don't understand is why you have a system that has integrated
hot water unless this is a stand alone tank with a heat exchanger. The
old systems are extremely inefficient and costly to operate.

OTOH, some newer energy efficient models work a bit differently. Mine
won't allow the circulators to run until the water is up to
temperature. There are electronics controlling all the stuff though
and I think you stated you had none.

Nothing to do with running out of fuel, but be sure you have
sufficient water in the system. Pumps can run but with nothing to
circulate, no heat. Also, how long were you without oil? Could a pipe
in the wall have frozen over the past day or so? That would cause a
block to prevent heat from circulating.

You are barking up the wrong tree. first off, it is a boiler not a
furnace. If it makes hot water, the issue is not with the boiler, it's
with the heating zone system. First you need to describe the
components . Is the hot water, from a coil within the boiler, or do
you have an indirect tank?
How many heating zones?
Do you have circulator pumps or zone valves, and how many of each?
What type of switching relays, aquastats etc. do you have?



ok then I guess its a boiler. the hot water does come from coils in the
tank but thats not the problem. the problem is the house is not getting
hot. the base board heaters are just warm. there are two zones, there
are two Taco Circulating Pumps. the are making a very quiet humming
noise. the burner comes on for about two mins every halhalf hour or so.
im not sure what the switch relay is

On 1/15/2012 1:29 PM, BM wrote:

You are barking up the wrong tree. first off, it is a boiler not a
furnace. If it makes hot water, the issue is not with the boiler, it's
with the heating zone system. First you need to describe the
components . Is the hot water, from a coil within the boiler, or do
you have an indirect tank?
How many heating zones?
Do you have circulator pumps or zone valves, and how many of each?
What type of switching relays, aquastats etc. do you have?



ok then I guess its a boiler. the hot water does come from coils in the
tank but thats not the problem. the problem is the house is not getting
hot. the base board heaters are just warm. there are two zones, there
are two Taco Circulating Pumps. the are making a very quiet humming
noise. the burner comes on for about two mins every halhalf hour or so.
im not sure what the switch relay is

OK, a system like yours has a triple aquastat relay mounted on it. It
will have two temperature dials on it, unless it's an electronic model.
In any event, that control maintains the temperature of the hot water in
the boiler independent of circulating control. Each of your two
circulators has a relay which sends 120 volts to it's respective
circulator when that circulator's thermostat calls for heat. If you turn
up and down each thermostat, you should hear it's relay click on and
off. Don't go by the hum of the circulator as that can be deceiving.
Check for each relay clicking on and off as you raise and lower the
thermostats.

OK, a system like yours has a triple aquastat relay mounted on it. It
will have two temperature dials on it, unless it's an electronic
model. In any event, that control maintains the temperature of the hot
water in the boiler independent of circulating control. Each of your
two circulators has a relay which sends 120 volts to it's respective
circulator when that circulator's thermostat calls for heat. If you
turn up and down each thermostat, you should hear it's relay click on
and off. Don't go by the hum of the circulator as that can be
deceiving. Check for each relay clicking on and off as you raise and
lower the thermostats.


RBM, there is a Honeywell box on the from of the system. if i take the
cover off there are two dials insied. One says HI and set on 180 the
other says LO and set on 160. I remeber when the guy put the system in he
told me those dias control the water temberature coming out of the faucet.
Other than that I dont see anything that controls the temperature for the
circulating pumps.

On 1/15/2012 2:12 PM, BM wrote:

OK, a system like yours has a triple aquastat relay mounted on it. It
will have two temperature dials on it, unless it's an electronic
model. In any event, that control maintains the temperature of the hot
water in the boiler independent of circulating control. Each of your
two circulators has a relay which sends 120 volts to it's respective
circulator when that circulator's thermostat calls for heat. If you
turn up and down each thermostat, you should hear it's relay click on
and off. Don't go by the hum of the circulator as that can be
deceiving. Check for each relay clicking on and off as you raise and
lower the thermostats.


RBM, there is a Honeywell box on the from of the system. if i take the
cover off there are two dials insied. One says HI and set on 180 the
other says LO and set on 160. I remeber when the guy put the system in he
told me those dias control the water temberature coming out of the faucet.
Other than that I dont see anything that controls the temperature for the
circulating pumps.

He is correct, those dials maintain the temperature of the boiler water.
The circulators for the heating zones are controlled by your room
thermostats, through switching relays. These relays can be individual
boxes about 4" x 4" or multiple relays can be inside one box. If you
trace the cable from each circulator, those cables should be coming from
these boxes. This is also where the thermostat (low voltage) wires are
connected.

On Jan 15, 1:20*pm, RBM wrote:
On 1/15/2012 2:12 PM, BM wrote:







OK, a system like yours has a triple aquastat relay mounted on it. It
will have two temperature dials on it, unless it's an electronic
model. In any event, that control maintains the temperature of the hot
water in the boiler independent of circulating control. Each of your
two circulators has a relay which sends 120 volts to it's respective
circulator when that circulator's thermostat calls for heat. If you
turn up and down each thermostat, you should hear it's relay click on
and off. Don't go by the hum of the circulator as that can be
deceiving. Check for each relay clicking on and off as you raise and
lower the thermostats.

RBM, *there is a Honeywell box on the from of the system. *if i take the
cover off there are two dials insied. *One says HI and set on 180 *the
other says LO and set on 160. * I remeber when the guy put the system in he
told me those dias control the water temberature coming out of the faucet.
Other than that I dont see anything that controls the temperature for the
circulating pumps.

He is correct, those dials maintain the temperature of the boiler water.
The circulators for the heating zones are controlled by your room
thermostats, through switching relays. These relays can be individual
boxes about 4" x 4" or multiple relays can be inside one box. If you
trace the cable from each circulator, those cables should be coming from
these boxes. This is also where the thermostat (low voltage) wires are
connected.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It seems like the circulator pumps are not running. You need someone
to move the room thermostats up and down while you are at the pump.
When the pump is not running, one side (from the boiler) should be
much hotter than the other side( to the baseboard heaters). When the
thermostat is raised to increase the room temperature, the relay
should operate and the circulating pump should get 120V to start the
pump running. The pump should run until the room thermostat gets hot
enough and then the circulating pump should stop. As soon as the pump
starts, within less than a minute or so, hot water should be
circulating to the baseboard units and they should start to heat up.
Both sides of the pipes to the circulating pump should be hot if the
water is circulating. DO you have a voltmeter to check the voltage at
the pumps. Pumps humming could be their normal sound, or the same
sound could indicate a damaged pump. But it is strange that both
pumps would go bad, if you have two pumps, or that both valves, if you
have only one pump and two zone valves would go bad at trhe same
time. If you have two volves and only one pump, I would bet money on
the pump. This is so basic that I believe you should get a handy
neighbor in to help you.

It seems like the circulator pumps are not running.


Did one of the water circulation pipes FREEZE while the heat was off?

Mark

On 1/15/2012 7:45 PM, BM wrote:
when i turn the thermostats on and off i can hear the circulator pumps go
on and off. the pipes that leave the boiler to the baseboard and return
to the boiler are too hot to touch. So i wonder why the baseboars are
only slightly warm. there are two zones.


Lovely, a picture is worth a thousand words. One of the two circulators
is controlled by the triple aquastat relay, the gray box. The other
circulator is controlled by a Taco relay, the green box. Your problem is
not electrical. It is plumbing, possibly frozen lines, or air in the lines.

wrote in :

On 15 Jan 2012 15:30:04 GMT, BM BM2home.com wrote:

Hello,

I ran out of oil. after filling the tank and bleeding the line the
furnace came on but it seems like its only coming on to heat the
water. I get hot water from the furnace. The baseboard heaters are
barley getting warm. it seem like the system is shutting down once
water is hot but the temperature in the house is as low as it can
go on the thermostat. if i run the hot water the furnace will come
back on but stops soon after the hot water is off. i turned both
thermostats down all the way for about 10 mins then back on and the
furnace still wont come on from that. what could be the problem.

thank you

I'm assuming you have hot water radiators in the house rather than
steam.

Do you have enough water in the system?

If he didn't, the boiler probably wouldn't fire at all, because the low-water-level sensor would disable
the ignitor.

Are the pumps running? Maybe some reset tripped for those pumps when
the system shut down.

What do you mean when you said "you ran the hot water"? Are you
saying you also get your hot water from the faucets from this furnace?

That's not uncommon, for a boiler system to have one extra zone for domestic hot water.

More details and explaination needed....
Describe what you have.....
Is this a zone system, or just one for the whole house?

Of course check the obvious. Circuit breakers, reset buttons, water
level in system, are you getting flame in the firebox for the furnace?
Yea, you said you got hot water, but I'm thinking you have two
fireboxes, one for heat, one for hot water?????

Not if he has a combined system.

RBM wrote in :

On 1/15/2012 7:45 PM, BM wrote:
when i turn the thermostats on and off i can hear the circulator
pumps go on and off. the pipes that leave the boiler to the
baseboard and return to the boiler are too hot to touch. So i
wonder why the baseboars are only slightly warm. there are two
zones.


Lovely, a picture is worth a thousand words. One of the two
circulators is controlled by the triple aquastat relay, the gray box.
The other circulator is controlled by a Taco relay, the green box.
Your problem is not electrical. It is plumbing, possibly frozen lines,
or air in the lines.

Yep, could be a massive air bubble in the baseboard units (or elsewhere in the lines). To the OP:
do you know how to bleed air from the radiators?

On 1/15/2012 8:31 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
wrote in :

On 15 Jan 2012 15:30:04 GMT, BMBM2home.com wrote:

Hello,

I ran out of oil. after filling the tank and bleeding the line the
furnace came on but it seems like its only coming on to heat the
water. I get hot water from the furnace. The baseboard heaters are
barley getting warm. it seem like the system is shutting down once
water is hot but the temperature in the house is as low as it can
go on the thermostat. if i run the hot water the furnace will come
back on but stops soon after the hot water is off. i turned both
thermostats down all the way for about 10 mins then back on and the
furnace still wont come on from that. what could be the problem.

thank you

I'm assuming you have hot water radiators in the house rather than
steam.

Do you have enough water in the system?

If he didn't, the boiler probably wouldn't fire at all, because the low-water-level sensor would disable
the ignitor.

Normally true, but I don't see one in the pictures. I know in my area of
NY, they've only recently been a code requirement




Are the pumps running? Maybe some reset tripped for those pumps when
the system shut down.

What do you mean when you said "you ran the hot water"? Are you
saying you also get your hot water from the faucets from this furnace?



That's not uncommon, for a boiler system to have one extra zone for domestic hot water.

More details and explaination needed....
Describe what you have.....
Is this a zone system, or just one for the whole house?

Of course check the obvious. Circuit breakers, reset buttons, water
level in system, are you getting flame in the firebox for the furnace?
Yea, you said you got hot water, but I'm thinking you have two
fireboxes, one for heat, one for hot water?????

Not if he has a combined system.

On 1/15/2012 6:28 PM, wrote:
On 15 Jan 2012 15:30:04 GMT, BMBM2home.com wrote:

Hello,

I ran out of oil. after filling the tank and bleeding the line the furnace
came on but it seems like its only coming on to heat the water. I get hot
water from the furnace. The baseboard heaters are barley getting warm. it
seem like the system is shutting down once water is hot but the temperature
in the house is as low as it can go on the thermostat. if i run the hot
water the furnace will come back on but stops soon after the hot water is
off. i turned both thermostats down all the way for about 10 mins then
back on and the furnace still wont come on from that. what could be the
problem.

thank you

I'm assuming you have hot water radiators in the house rather than
steam.

Do you have enough water in the system?

Are the pumps running? Maybe some reset tripped for those pumps when
the system shut down.

What do you mean when you said "you ran the hot water"? Are you
saying you also get your hot water from the faucets from this furnace?

Yes, it's called a domestic coil. It sits in the water jacket. Cold
water goes in, around the coil, and comes out hot. Then it gets tempered
through a mixing valve. It's in the picture behind the gray box.

More details and explaination needed....
Describe what you have.....
Is this a zone system, or just one for the whole house?

He has two heating zones, hence the two circulators

Of course check the obvious. Circuit breakers, reset buttons, water
level in system, are you getting flame in the firebox for the furnace?
Yea, you said you got hot water, but I'm thinking you have two
fireboxes, one for heat, one for hot water?????

One fire box, and one tank. Garden variety domestic boiler

Hey, I used to maintain a hot water heating boiler, for a huge
building (school), but when I read your posting, I'm totally confused
what you have????????


Without knowing more details, the thermostat should kick the pumps on.
Check pumps....

I'm assuming it dod not get cold enough to freeze up pipes and stuff.
otherwise you have a bigger problem. Ice in the system could do lots
of damage.

Bad circulator pump? Or bad coupler between the pump and the motor?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"BM" wrote in message
...

there are no diagnostics. the pipes are getting very hot coming out of the
furnace. it seems like the water is not circulating.

On 1/15/2012 9:44 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 20:48:51 -0500, wrote:

What do you mean when you said "you ran the hot water"? Are you
saying you also get your hot water from the faucets from this furnace?

Yes, it's called a domestic coil. It sits in the water jacket. Cold
water goes in, around the coil, and comes out hot. Then it gets tempered
through a mixing valve. It's in the picture behind the gray box.


Where are you seeing a picture of this system? If a link was posted,
it never showed up here.

While the concept of this makes sense during the heating season, I'd
hate to have to run the boiler in the summer just to get hot water
from the faucets. (Or do they use another water heater that time of
year, or have electric heating elements in the system).

He posted 3 pictures farther down the string. Yes, this is a basic dumb
system. The coil is pretty efficient during the heating season, but
quite a waste during the off season.

More details and explaination needed....
Describe what you have.....
Is this a zone system, or just one for the whole house?

He has two heating zones, hence the two circulators

So, if he has two zones, that should indicate that he has two
circulator pumps. I highly doubt both of them went bad at the same
time. Otherwise I suspected a bad motor to pump coupler, since he
indicated that a pump motor(s) is heard running.

The pictures show the two pumps as well. They are Taco cartridge pumps
so they don't have couplings. There is little to no chance that they
would simultaneously break, so I'd say it's likely that the freeze up
theory or air bound system is likely. There is no picture of the piping
for the two zones, but it's entirely possible that it uses a split
system, one with two feeds, that return on a single pipe. If that's the
case, one freeze up on the return, takes out both zones.

I'm still thinking something froze when the heat was off. Of course
if the pumps got ice in them, both couplers could be broke. The
motors will bust those couplers if the pumps cant turn from ice.

Please - Repost that link to the photos.

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 22:03:32 -0500, RBM wrote:



While the concept of this makes sense during the heating season, I'd
hate to have to run the boiler in the summer just to get hot water
from the faucets. (Or do they use another water heater that time of
year, or have electric heating elements in the system).

He posted 3 pictures farther down the string. Yes, this is a basic dumb
system. The coil is pretty efficient during the heating season, but
quite a waste during the off season.


Pictures never shows on my server.

That system is so inefficient it should be outlawed. My old boiler
was like that and I'd be laying in bed on a hot August night and hear
the boiler kick on to keep the water hot. Much oil wasted.

My new system uses a stand alone insulated tank and heat exchanger
that works as a third zone. It can hold water for a few days with no
added heat. My oil use dropped about 40% the past two years.

My savings in oil is paying for the new system. 330 gallons saved at
the price today, about $3.60.

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 20:44:58 -0600, wrote:

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 20:48:51 -0500, RBM wrote:

What do you mean when you said "you ran the hot water"? Are you
saying you also get your hot water from the faucets from this furnace?

Yes, it's called a domestic coil. It sits in the water jacket. Cold
water goes in, around the coil, and comes out hot. Then it gets tempered
through a mixing valve. It's in the picture behind the gray box.


Where are you seeing a picture of this system? If a link was posted,
it never showed up here.

While the concept of this makes sense during the heating season, I'd
hate to have to run the boiler in the summer just to get hot water
from the faucets. (Or do they use another water heater that time of
year, or have electric heating elements in the system).

More details and explaination needed....
Describe what you have.....
Is this a zone system, or just one for the whole house?

He has two heating zones, hence the two circulators

So, if he has two zones, that should indicate that he has two
circulator pumps. I highly doubt both of them went bad at the same
time. Otherwise I suspected a bad motor to pump coupler, since he
indicated that a pump motor(s) is heard running.
I'm still thinking something froze when the heat was off. Of course
if the pumps got ice in them, both couplers could be broke. The
motors will bust those couplers if the pumps cant turn from ice.

Please - Repost that link to the photos.


Friend's house has 6 zones, and only one pump.

On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 13:31:51 -0600, wrote:

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 22:03:32 -0500, RBM wrote:

The pictures show the two pumps as well. They are Taco cartridge pumps
so they don't have couplings. There is little to no chance that they
would simultaneously break, so I'd say it's likely that the freeze up
theory or air bound system is likely. There is no picture of the piping
for the two zones, but it's entirely possible that it uses a split
system, one with two feeds, that return on a single pipe. If that's the
case, one freeze up on the return, takes out both zones.


Once again, please repost the photo URL.

I'm not familiar with Taco pumps, but they are not on the menu at Taco
Bell

Actually, both pumps could break if they froze up. It's more likely the
pipes froze in the walls, esp any on outside walls. If this is
possible, the OP should rent a torpedo heater and run it for awhile to
get the house up to around 80deg. Of course there could be unwanted
surprises as things thaw out, such as broken pipes. So he should be
prepared to shut down the water inlet and pumps.

Not sure why there would be an air-lock just because the boiler was
cold, but anything is possible. The only other option is to take some
pipes apart on both the outlet and inlet sides and check for flow. I
think I'd opt to rent a portable heater first if there is any chance of
frozen pipes.

Has anyone confirmed the zone control valves are moving?????

On 1/16/2012 3:24 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 13:31:51 -0600, wrote:

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 22:03:32 -0500, wrote:

The pictures show the two pumps as well. They are Taco cartridge pumps
so they don't have couplings. There is little to no chance that they
would simultaneously break, so I'd say it's likely that the freeze up
theory or air bound system is likely. There is no picture of the piping
for the two zones, but it's entirely possible that it uses a split
system, one with two feeds, that return on a single pipe. If that's the
case, one freeze up on the return, takes out both zones.


Once again, please repost the photo URL.

I'm not familiar with Taco pumps, but they are not on the menu at Taco
Bell

Actually, both pumps could break if they froze up. It's more likely the
pipes froze in the walls, esp any on outside walls. If this is
possible, the OP should rent a torpedo heater and run it for awhile to
get the house up to around 80deg. Of course there could be unwanted
surprises as things thaw out, such as broken pipes. So he should be
prepared to shut down the water inlet and pumps.

Not sure why there would be an air-lock just because the boiler was
cold, but anything is possible. The only other option is to take some
pipes apart on both the outlet and inlet sides and check for flow. I
think I'd opt to rent a portable heater first if there is any chance of
frozen pipes.

Has anyone confirmed the zone control valves are moving?????

There are no zone valves on this system. Just circulator pumps

On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 15:20:17 -0500, wrote:





if the pumps got ice in them, both couplers could be broke. The
motors will bust those couplers if the pumps cant turn from ice.

Please - Repost that link to the photos.


Friend's house has 6 zones, and only one pump.

Two methods can be used. One pump and zone valves or individual
pumps, one on each zone. The OP has the latter.

On 1/16/2012 10:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 15:20:17 -0500, wrote:





if the pumps got ice in them, both couplers could be broke. The
motors will bust those couplers if the pumps cant turn from ice.

Please - Repost that link to the photos.


Friend's house has 6 zones, and only one pump.

Two methods can be used. One pump and zone valves or individual
pumps, one on each zone. The OP has the latter.

or multiple pumps and multiple zone valves

On 1/17/2012 6:17 AM, RBM wrote:
On 1/16/2012 10:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 15:20:17 -0500, wrote:





if the pumps got ice in them, both couplers could be broke. The
motors will bust those couplers if the pumps cant turn from ice.

Please - Repost that link to the photos.


Friend's house has 6 zones, and only one pump.

Two methods can be used. One pump and zone valves or individual
pumps, one on each zone. The OP has the latter.

or multiple pumps and multiple zone valves

You need valves (even if you have multiple pumps or only one zone) in
a system with a tankless coil, because without the valves, the hot water
would circulate in the heating system by convection when the boiler was
heating water for domestic usage, even if the thermostat was not calling
for heat. So despite the two circulator pumps there must be valve(s) in
this system.
--
Peace,
bobJ

On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 11:54:50 -0500, Marilyn & Bob
wrote:

On 1/17/2012 6:17 AM, RBM wrote:
On 1/16/2012 10:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 15:20:17 -0500, wrote:





if the pumps got ice in them, both couplers could be broke. The
motors will bust those couplers if the pumps cant turn from ice.

Please - Repost that link to the photos.


Friend's house has 6 zones, and only one pump.

Two methods can be used. One pump and zone valves or individual
pumps, one on each zone. The OP has the latter.

or multiple pumps and multiple zone valves

You need valves (even if you have multiple pumps or only one zone) in
a system with a tankless coil, because without the valves, the hot water
would circulate in the heating system by convection when the boiler was
heating water for domestic usage, even if the thermostat was not calling
for heat. So despite the two circulator pumps there must be valve(s) in
this system.
And the question remains - have the zone control vslves been
checked???
I've replaced 4 over the last several years at my friend's place -
lack of heat being the symptom, seized valve the cause.

At least 2 happened when the furnace shut down due to a bad
thermocouple. (twice) Don't know if there is any cause/effect that
could be proven -.

On 1/17/2012 11:54 AM, Marilyn & Bob wrote:
On 1/17/2012 6:17 AM, RBM wrote:
On 1/16/2012 10:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 15:20:17 -0500, wrote:





if the pumps got ice in them, both couplers could be broke. The
motors will bust those couplers if the pumps cant turn from ice.

Please - Repost that link to the photos.


Friend's house has 6 zones, and only one pump.

Two methods can be used. One pump and zone valves or individual
pumps, one on each zone. The OP has the latter.

or multiple pumps and multiple zone valves

You need valves (even if you have multiple pumps or only one zone) in a
system with a tankless coil, because without the valves, the hot water
would circulate in the heating system by convection when the boiler was
heating water for domestic usage, even if the thermostat was not calling
for heat. So despite the two circulator pumps there must be valve(s) in
this system.
--
Peace,
bobJ

Yes, but not zone valves. Those are called flow check valves. In the
newest systems, the flow check is built right into the circulator pump.
In the OP's system, one flow check valve can be seen in one of the
pictures. It's a green thing with an adjustment knob on top

On 1/17/2012 12:06 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 11:54:50 -0500, Marilyn& Bob
wrote:

On 1/17/2012 6:17 AM, RBM wrote:
On 1/16/2012 10:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 15:20:17 -0500, wrote:





if the pumps got ice in them, both couplers could be broke. The
motors will bust those couplers if the pumps cant turn from ice.

Please - Repost that link to the photos.


Friend's house has 6 zones, and only one pump.

Two methods can be used. One pump and zone valves or individual
pumps, one on each zone. The OP has the latter.

or multiple pumps and multiple zone valves

You need valves (even if you have multiple pumps or only one zone) in
a system with a tankless coil, because without the valves, the hot water
would circulate in the heating system by convection when the boiler was
heating water for domestic usage, even if the thermostat was not calling
for heat. So despite the two circulator pumps there must be valve(s) in
this system.
And the question remains - have the zone control vslves been
checked???
I've replaced 4 over the last several years at my friend's place -
lack of heat being the symptom, seized valve the cause.

At least 2 happened when the furnace shut down due to a bad
thermocouple. (twice) Don't know if there is any cause/effect that
could be proven -.

And the same answer remains: There are still no zone valves on the OP's
system. FYI here is a picture of a basic zone valve:

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-V...tch-10907000-p

On 1/17/2012 11:54 AM, Marilyn & Bob wrote:
On 1/17/2012 6:17 AM, RBM wrote:
On 1/16/2012 10:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jan 2012 15:20:17 -0500, wrote:





if the pumps got ice in them, both couplers could be broke. The
motors will bust those couplers if the pumps cant turn from ice.

Please - Repost that link to the photos.


Friend's house has 6 zones, and only one pump.

Two methods can be used. One pump and zone valves or individual
pumps, one on each zone. The OP has the latter.

or multiple pumps and multiple zone valves

You need valves (even if you have multiple pumps or only one zone) in a
system with a tankless coil, because without the valves, the hot water
would circulate in the heating system by convection when the boiler was
heating water for domestic usage, even if the thermostat was not calling
for heat. So despite the two circulator pumps there must be valve(s) in
this system.
--
Peace,
bobJ


Yes, but not zone valves. Those are called flow check valves. In the
newest systems, the flow check is built right into the circulator pump.
In the OP's system, one flow check valve can be seen in one of the
pictures. Unlike a zone valve, it has no wires on it, just a check valve
that controls the flow rate. It's a green thing with an adjustment knob
on top

On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 11:54:50 -0500, Marilyn & Bob
wrote:




You need valves (even if you have multiple pumps or only one zone) in
a system with a tankless coil, because without the valves, the hot water
would circulate in the heating system by convection when the boiler was
heating water for domestic usage, even if the thermostat was not calling
for heat. So despite the two circulator pumps there must be valve(s) in
this system.

You need a flow preventer, but not a zone valve. There are a few
types, but you can get an idea of what they are here
http://inspectapedia.com/heat/CheckValves.htm

They are mechanical and prevent water circulating unless pumped. They
can, however, be opened fully to allow for convection heating should a
circulator fail. Not as good as having the pump running, but in a
pinch, that zone will get some heat.

BM posted for all of us...


Hello,

I ran out of oil. after filling the tank and bleeding the line the furnace
came on but it seems like its only coming on to heat the water. I get hot
water from the furnace. The baseboard heaters are barley getting warm. it
seem like the system is shutting down once water is hot but the temperature
in the house is as low as it can go on the thermostat. if i run the hot
water the furnace will come back on but stops soon after the hot water is
off. i turned both thermostats down all the way for about 10 mins then
back on and the furnace still wont come on from that. what could be the
problem.

thank you

Didn't see any picture...

Probably air in the system. Obviously the OP has no idea of what he has or to
fix. Call a professional. Get an explanation from this person as to what you
have and how it works. It may be simple to bleed your system or it may be
hard/troublesome. Did the system freeze? Never saw an answer...

I also won't quote what configuration of my brother in laws/distant
relative/forrmer lover/ system has because IT DOES HELP!

Please post what the resolution is when fixed. Be advised these technicians
WILL be very busy.

--
Tekkie

On Wed, 18 Jan 2012 09:45:51 -0500, Tekkie®
wrote:


Please post what the resolution is when fixed. Be advised these technicians
WILL be very busy.

Yeah, my guess is we'll never hear from him again. It has already
been a few cold days so he either fixed it or called a pro and is too
embarrassed to tell what happened.