I have a flat roof on a rowhome/townhome-style building that I want to do a
repair/fix on. I am looking for some suggestions or options for how to do
it, what materials to use, etc.

Basically, the roof is almost flat with just a slight pitch from the from to
the back. The pitch is maybe something like a 1 inch drop in every 10 feet.
Along the back edge of the building, the water runs off and over the edge
into a gutter and the into a downspout to the ground. There is a problem
with the way the gutter is done -- primarily that there is no real drip edge
to speak of. Instead, the water runs over the edge of the roof and some of
it goes into the gutter and some of it runs down the fascia behind the
gutter and down the side of the building. I pretty much know what to do to
fix the drip edge, gutter, and fascia issues, so I am all set with that
part. That part will involve replacing the gutter and fascia and creating a
drip edge so that all of the water runoff goes into the gutter like it is
supposed to do.

But, there is a secondary issue that I would like to address and fix if I
can at the same time. The secondary issues is that over the years part of
the roof has sagged just enough to cause a large puddle to form across the
whole roof starting at the back edge and going about 6 to 8 feet toward the
front of the property. The puddle is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep along a
line that is about 3 or 4 feet from the back edge of the roof. In other
words, along the back section of the roof, it actually pitches slightly in
the wrong direct causing the water to run back onto the roof rather than off
of the back edge of the roof and into the gutter.

The existing roof -- strange as it may seem -- is made up of two 1/2-inch
layers of sheetrock attached to the top of the roof rafters, and then about
1-1/4 inch of asphalt sheeting or asphalt board of some type with what looks
like just asphalt coating on top of that. NOTE: I posted earlier about
this roof being weird and literally having a sheetrock decking; and the
property was built in or around 1945 (long story, but true).

Nevertheless, here is what I am thinking about doing: Remove the existing
roof down to the rafters along a path about 4 feet wide that goes all the
way across the last 4 feet of the roof along the back edge. Then add new
1/2 inch 4-ply plywood decking along that back 4 feet across the back of the
roof. That will enable me to put a new roof over the new plywood decking,
and because that new decking and roofing will be thinner and lower than the
original 1 inch sheetrock plus 1-1/4 inch asphalt, I will be able to have
the roof slope slightly in the correct direction and run off the back edge
of the roof and eliminate the puddle that now forms across the back section
of the roof.

My question is, "What type of roofing material could I use for the 4-foot
wide new decking that I will be creating along the back of the roof? The
original roofing material is asphalt of some type, so I need to figure out
what goes on top of the new plywood decking along the back, and how I will
tie that into where that section meets the existing asphalt roofing. In
other words, "What do I use for the new roofing material on this almost flat
new section of roof decking that I will be creating?"

I assume there is not enough slope to use roll roofing. I have seen some
roofing called Lo-Slope (or something like that) but I'm not sure that is
the correct approach. I also know there is glue-down rubber roofing, or TPO
vinyl roofing, or EPDM roofing. But I don't know if any of those can be
tied into the existing asphalt roofing that will be remaining on the front
section of the roof.

It may just turn out that I will have to have a regular roofing company come
out and give me a price to do what I want done and just let them do it.
But, if I could figure out what they would be doing, or what materials they
would use to do this, I may be able to do this on my own.

Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

On 11/8/2011 9:28 PM, Ron wrote:
I have a flat roof on a rowhome/townhome-style building that I want to
do a repair/fix on. I am looking for some suggestions or options for how
to do it, what materials to use, etc.

Basically, the roof is almost flat with just a slight pitch from the
from to the back. The pitch is maybe something like a 1 inch drop in
every 10 feet. Along the back edge of the building, the water runs off
and over the edge into a gutter and the into a downspout to the ground.
There is a problem with the way the gutter is done -- primarily that
there is no real drip edge to speak of. Instead, the water runs over the
edge of the roof and some of it goes into the gutter and some of it runs
down the fascia behind the gutter and down the side of the building. I
pretty much know what to do to fix the drip edge, gutter, and fascia
issues, so I am all set with that part. That part will involve replacing
the gutter and fascia and creating a drip edge so that all of the water
runoff goes into the gutter like it is supposed to do.

But, there is a secondary issue that I would like to address and fix if
I can at the same time. The secondary issues is that over the years part
of the roof has sagged just enough to cause a large puddle to form
across the whole roof starting at the back edge and going about 6 to 8
feet toward the front of the property. The puddle is about 1/2 to 3/4
inch deep along a line that is about 3 or 4 feet from the back edge of
the roof. In other words, along the back section of the roof, it
actually pitches slightly in the wrong direct causing the water to run
back onto the roof rather than off of the back edge of the roof and into
the gutter.

The existing roof -- strange as it may seem -- is made up of two
1/2-inch layers of sheetrock attached to the top of the roof rafters,
and then about 1-1/4 inch of asphalt sheeting or asphalt board of some
type with what looks like just asphalt coating on top of that. NOTE: I
posted earlier about this roof being weird and literally having a
sheetrock decking; and the property was built in or around 1945 (long
story, but true).

Nevertheless, here is what I am thinking about doing: Remove the
existing roof down to the rafters along a path about 4 feet wide that
goes all the way across the last 4 feet of the roof along the back edge.
Then add new 1/2 inch 4-ply plywood decking along that back 4 feet
across the back of the roof. That will enable me to put a new roof over
the new plywood decking, and because that new decking and roofing will
be thinner and lower than the original 1 inch sheetrock plus 1-1/4 inch
asphalt, I will be able to have the roof slope slightly in the correct
direction and run off the back edge of the roof and eliminate the puddle
that now forms across the back section of the roof.

My question is, "What type of roofing material could I use for the
4-foot wide new decking that I will be creating along the back of the
roof? The original roofing material is asphalt of some type, so I need
to figure out what goes on top of the new plywood decking along the
back, and how I will tie that into where that section meets the existing
asphalt roofing. In other words, "What do I use for the new roofing
material on this almost flat new section of roof decking that I will be
creating?"

I assume there is not enough slope to use roll roofing. I have seen some
roofing called Lo-Slope (or something like that) but I'm not sure that
is the correct approach. I also know there is glue-down rubber roofing,
or TPO vinyl roofing, or EPDM roofing. But I don't know if any of those
can be tied into the existing asphalt roofing that will be remaining on
the front section of the roof.

It may just turn out that I will have to have a regular roofing company
come out and give me a price to do what I want done and just let them do
it. But, if I could figure out what they would be doing, or what
materials they would use to do this, I may be able to do this on my own.

Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

Pro roof (probably membrane) on bare deck, and depending on how the
front and rear parapets are set up, they can insulate and reslope roof
at same time with foam panels. But before you get that far, need to find
cause and extent of saggy spot. Leak rotting decking and a couple
joists? Was a wall removed underneath? (They did that on a flat roof of
one wing at work. Oops. Didn't realize it till 18 months later when an
20"+ snowfall collapsed half the roof into occupied space.)

IMHO, some things are not WORTH doing yourself. Specialized roofs are
one of them.
--
aem sends...

On Tue, 8 Nov 2011 21:28:35 -0500, "Ron" wrote:

I have a flat roof on a rowhome/townhome-style building that I want to do a
repair/fix on. I am looking for some suggestions or options for how to do
it, what materials to use, etc.

Basically, the roof is almost flat with just a slight pitch from the from to
the back. The pitch is maybe something like a 1 inch drop in every 10 feet.
Along the back edge of the building, the water runs off and over the edge
into a gutter and the into a downspout to the ground. There is a problem
with the way the gutter is done -- primarily that there is no real drip edge
to speak of. Instead, the water runs over the edge of the roof and some of
it goes into the gutter and some of it runs down the fascia behind the
gutter and down the side of the building. I pretty much know what to do to
fix the drip edge, gutter, and fascia issues, so I am all set with that
part. That part will involve replacing the gutter and fascia and creating a
drip edge so that all of the water runoff goes into the gutter like it is
supposed to do.

But, there is a secondary issue that I would like to address and fix if I
can at the same time. The secondary issues is that over the years part of
the roof has sagged just enough to cause a large puddle to form across the
whole roof starting at the back edge and going about 6 to 8 feet toward the
front of the property. The puddle is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep along a
line that is about 3 or 4 feet from the back edge of the roof. In other
words, along the back section of the roof, it actually pitches slightly in
the wrong direct causing the water to run back onto the roof rather than off
of the back edge of the roof and into the gutter.

The existing roof -- strange as it may seem -- is made up of two 1/2-inch
layers of sheetrock attached to the top of the roof rafters, and then about
1-1/4 inch of asphalt sheeting or asphalt board of some type with what looks
like just asphalt coating on top of that. NOTE: I posted earlier about
this roof being weird and literally having a sheetrock decking; and the
property was built in or around 1945 (long story, but true).

Nevertheless, here is what I am thinking about doing: Remove the existing
roof down to the rafters along a path about 4 feet wide that goes all the
way across the last 4 feet of the roof along the back edge. Then add new
1/2 inch 4-ply plywood decking along that back 4 feet across the back of the
roof. That will enable me to put a new roof over the new plywood decking,
and because that new decking and roofing will be thinner and lower than the
original 1 inch sheetrock plus 1-1/4 inch asphalt, I will be able to have
the roof slope slightly in the correct direction and run off the back edge
of the roof and eliminate the puddle that now forms across the back section
of the roof.

My question is, "What type of roofing material could I use for the 4-foot
wide new decking that I will be creating along the back of the roof? The
original roofing material is asphalt of some type, so I need to figure out
what goes on top of the new plywood decking along the back, and how I will
tie that into where that section meets the existing asphalt roofing. In
other words, "What do I use for the new roofing material on this almost flat
new section of roof decking that I will be creating?"

I assume there is not enough slope to use roll roofing. I have seen some
roofing called Lo-Slope (or something like that) but I'm not sure that is
the correct approach. I also know there is glue-down rubber roofing, or TPO
vinyl roofing, or EPDM roofing. But I don't know if any of those can be
tied into the existing asphalt roofing that will be remaining on the front
section of the roof.

It may just turn out that I will have to have a regular roofing company come
out and give me a price to do what I want done and just let them do it.
But, if I could figure out what they would be doing, or what materials they
would use to do this, I may be able to do this on my own.

Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.
The only effective repair of a flat roof is a pitched roof.

Ron wrote:

But, there is a secondary issue that I would like to address and fix
if I can at the same time. The secondary issues is that over the
years part of the roof has sagged just enough to cause a large puddle
to form across the whole roof starting at the back edge and going
about 6 to 8 feet toward the front of the property. The puddle is
about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep along a line that is about 3 or 4 feet
from the back edge of the roof. In other words, along the back
section of the roof, it actually pitches slightly in the wrong direct
causing the water to run back onto the roof rather than off of the
back edge of the roof and into the gutter.

So, do I have this right? You want to eliminate the puddle?

Why?

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
On 11/8/2011 9:28 PM, Ron wrote:
I have a flat roof on a rowhome/townhome-style building that I want to
do a repair/fix on. I am looking for some suggestions or options for how
to do it, what materials to use, etc.
. . . . . ,
It may just turn out that I will have to have a regular roofing company
come out and give me a price to do what I want done and just let them do
it. But, if I could figure out what they would be doing, or what
materials they would use to do this, I may be able to do this on my own.

Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

Pro roof (probably membrane) on bare deck, and depending on how the front
and rear parapets are set up, they can insulate and reslope roof at same
time with foam panels. But before you get that far, need to find cause and
extent of saggy spot. Leak rotting decking and a couple joists? Was a wall
removed underneath? (They did that on a flat roof of one wing at work.
Oops. Didn't realize it till 18 months later when an 20"+ snowfall
collapsed half the roof into occupied space.)

IMHO, some things are not WORTH doing yourself. Specialized roofs are one
of them.

Thanks. It may turn out that I will end up using a professional roofing
company as you suggested. But if there is a way that I can do what I need,
I would like to just do that and get it done in the next day or two. I say
"I", but I have a reliable construction person who is on site doing a lot of
other work, so he and I (mostly him) would be doing the roof fix if we do it
ourselves. He has done a number of shingle roofs before, but not flat
roofing.

I had already taken out the entire ceiling underneath, so I was able to see
the whole roof from that angle. The roof is actually above a second floor
apartment that I am completely redoing. The sag appears to have just been a
slight bow in the 2x8 rafters over many years. They are all in very good
shape with no rotting etc.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
Ron wrote:

But, there is a secondary issue that I would like to address and fix
if I can at the same time. The secondary issues is that over the
years part of the roof has sagged just enough to cause a large puddle
to form across the whole roof starting at the back edge and going
about 6 to 8 feet toward the front of the property. The puddle is
about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep along a line that is about 3 or 4 feet
from the back edge of the roof. In other words, along the back
section of the roof, it actually pitches slightly in the wrong direct
causing the water to run back onto the roof rather than off of the
back edge of the roof and into the gutter.

So, do I have this right? You want to eliminate the puddle?

Yes, that is correct.

Why?

Since we will be doing the repair on the drip edge issue anyway, I thought
there may be an opportunity here to eliminate the puddle at the same time.
Eliminating the puddle would cause the water to run off rather than just sit
up there in a big puddle until it dries out. Not having water just sitting
there seems like it would make sense to me in terms of preventing future
leaks.

On Nov 8, 9:28*pm, "Ron" wrote:
I have a flat roof on a rowhome/townhome-style building that I want to do a
repair/fix on. *I am looking for some suggestions or options for how to do
it, what materials to use, etc.

Basically, the roof is almost flat with just a slight pitch from the from to
the back. *The pitch is maybe something like a 1 inch drop in every 10 feet.
Along the back edge of the building, the water runs off and over the edge
into a gutter and the into a downspout to the ground. *There is a problem
with the way the gutter is done -- primarily that there is no real drip edge
to speak of. *Instead, the water runs over the edge of the roof and some of
it goes into the gutter and some of it runs down the fascia behind the
gutter and down the side of the building. *I pretty much know what to do to
fix the drip edge, gutter, and fascia issues, so I am all set with that
part. *That part will involve replacing the gutter and fascia and creating a
drip edge so that all of the water runoff goes into the gutter like it is
supposed to do.

But, there is a secondary issue that I would like to address and fix if I
can at the same time. *The secondary issues is that over the years part of
the roof has sagged just enough to cause a large puddle to form across the
whole roof starting at the back edge and going about 6 to 8 feet toward the
front of the property. *The puddle is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep along a
line that is about 3 or 4 feet from the back edge of the roof. *In other
words, along the back section of the roof, it actually pitches slightly in
the wrong direct causing the water to run back onto the roof rather than off
of the back edge of the roof and into the gutter.

The existing roof -- strange as it may seem -- is made up of two 1/2-inch
layers of sheetrock attached to the top of the roof rafters, and then about
1-1/4 inch of asphalt sheeting or asphalt board of some type with what looks
like just asphalt coating on top of that. *NOTE: *I posted earlier about
this roof being weird and literally having a sheetrock decking; and the
property was built in or around 1945 (long story, but true).

Nevertheless, here is what I am thinking about doing: *Remove the existing
roof down to the rafters along a path about 4 feet wide that goes all the
way across the last 4 feet of the roof along the back edge. *Then add new
1/2 inch 4-ply plywood decking along that back 4 feet across the back of the
roof. *That will enable me to put a new roof over the new plywood decking,
and because that new decking and roofing will be thinner and lower than the
original 1 inch sheetrock plus 1-1/4 inch asphalt, I will be able to have
the roof slope slightly in the correct direction and run off the back edge
of the roof and eliminate the puddle that now forms across the back section
of the roof.

My question is, "What type of roofing material could I use for the 4-foot
wide new decking that I will be creating along the back of the roof? *The
original roofing material is asphalt of some type, so I need to figure out
what goes on top of the new plywood decking along the back, and how I will
tie that into where that section meets the existing asphalt roofing. *In
other words, "What do I use for the new roofing material on this almost flat
new section of roof decking that I will be creating?"

I assume there is not enough slope to use roll roofing. *I have seen some
roofing called Lo-Slope (or something like that) but I'm not sure that is
the correct approach. *I also know there is glue-down rubber roofing, or TPO
vinyl roofing, or EPDM roofing. *But I don't know if any of those can be
tied into the existing asphalt roofing that will be remaining on the front
section of the roof.

It may just turn out that I will have to have a regular roofing company come
out and give me a price to do what I want done and just let them do it.
But, if I could figure out what they would be doing, or what materials they
would use to do this, I may be able to do this on my own.

Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated. *Thanks.

If your redoing the apartment below I would absolutely replace that
entire roof, because it puts all your hard work and $ at risk. do it
NOW while you have the cieling open.

myself I would hire a pro to avoid future issues

On Nov 9, 7:08*am, "Ron" wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message

...

Ron wrote:

But, there is a secondary issue that I would like to address and fix
if I can at the same time. *The secondary issues is that over the
years part of the roof has sagged just enough to cause a large puddle
to form across the whole roof starting at the back edge and going
about 6 to 8 feet toward the front of the property. *The puddle is
about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep along a line that is about 3 or 4 feet
from the back edge of the roof. *In other words, along the back
section of the roof, it actually pitches slightly in the wrong direct
causing the water to run back onto the roof rather than off of the
back edge of the roof and into the gutter.

So, do I have this right? You want to eliminate the puddle?

Yes, that is correct.

Why?

Since we will be doing the repair on the drip edge issue anyway, I thought
there may be an opportunity here to eliminate the puddle at the same time..
Eliminating the puddle would cause the water to run off rather than just sit
up there in a big puddle until it dries out. *Not having water just sitting
there seems like it would make sense to me in terms of preventing future
leaks.

Remove the entire roof, restructure as needed to be level, then build
a
modern roof with a better pitch towards the gutter... Sheetrock and
asphalt get very fickle as they age in an environment of extreme
temperature changes like a roof...

Do the whole roof all at once or leave it alone, as when it leaks it
won't leak near where you have "fixed it" and your insurer will be
wondering why you only "fixed" such a small spot on the back of
such an old roof just to get rid of a puddle...

~~ Evan

On 11/9/2011 5:08 AM, Ron wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
Ron wrote:

But, there is a secondary issue that I would like to address and fix
if I can at the same time. The secondary issues is that over the
years part of the roof has sagged just enough to cause a large puddle
to form across the whole roof starting at the back edge and going
about 6 to 8 feet toward the front of the property. The puddle is
about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep along a line that is about 3 or 4 feet
from the back edge of the roof. In other words, along the back
section of the roof, it actually pitches slightly in the wrong direct
causing the water to run back onto the roof rather than off of the
back edge of the roof and into the gutter.

So, do I have this right? You want to eliminate the puddle?

Yes, that is correct.

Why?

Since we will be doing the repair on the drip edge issue anyway, I
thought there may be an opportunity here to eliminate the puddle at the
same time. Eliminating the puddle would cause the water to run off
rather than just sit up there in a big puddle until it dries out. Not
having water just sitting there seems like it would make sense to me in
terms of preventing future leaks.

again, why? the puddle isn't leaking now. perhaps it won't in the
future. it isn't hurting anything. ever hear 'leave sleeping dogs lie'?

Ron wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
Ron wrote:

But, there is a secondary issue that I would like to address and fix
if I can at the same time. The secondary issues is that over the
years part of the roof has sagged just enough to cause a large
puddle to form across the whole roof starting at the back edge and
going about 6 to 8 feet toward the front of the property. The
puddle is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep along a line that is about 3
or 4 feet from the back edge of the roof. In other words, along
the back section of the roof, it actually pitches slightly in the
wrong direct causing the water to run back onto the roof rather
than off of the back edge of the roof and into the gutter.

So, do I have this right? You want to eliminate the puddle?

Yes, that is correct.

Why?

Since we will be doing the repair on the drip edge issue anyway, I
thought there may be an opportunity here to eliminate the puddle at
the same time. Eliminating the puddle would cause the water to run
off rather than just sit up there in a big puddle until it dries out.
Not having water just sitting there seems like it would make sense to
me in terms of preventing future leaks.

Oh, I see.

For what it's worth, I have two, 2-car garages with flat roofs. Each has,
after a rain, a ten-to-fifteen foot puddle that's as much as 1/2" deep. It's
been like that for 26 years (at least).

YMMV.

On Nov 9, 7:08*am, "Ron" wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message

...

Ron wrote:

But, there is a secondary issue that I would like to address and fix
if I can at the same time. *The secondary issues is that over the
years part of the roof has sagged just enough to cause a large puddle
to form across the whole roof starting at the back edge and going
about 6 to 8 feet toward the front of the property. *The puddle is
about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep along a line that is about 3 or 4 feet
from the back edge of the roof. *In other words, along the back
section of the roof, it actually pitches slightly in the wrong direct
causing the water to run back onto the roof rather than off of the
back edge of the roof and into the gutter.

So, do I have this right? You want to eliminate the puddle?

Yes, that is correct.

Why?

Since we will be doing the repair on the drip edge issue anyway, I thought
there may be an opportunity here to eliminate the puddle at the same time..
Eliminating the puddle would cause the water to run off rather than just sit
up there in a big puddle until it dries out. *Not having water just sitting
there seems like it would make sense to me in terms of preventing future
leaks.

I grew up in a row house with a flat roof in NYC. Lived there for
25years.

I recall that we, and just about every other house on the block, had
puddles on our roofs after a rain ever since I was able to climb the
ladder in my closet and get out onto the roof to hang out.

I don't recall it ever being a problem.

On Wed, 9 Nov 2011 07:08:01 -0500, "Ron" wrote:

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
Ron wrote:

But, there is a secondary issue that I would like to address and fix
if I can at the same time. The secondary issues is that over the
years part of the roof has sagged just enough to cause a large puddle
to form across the whole roof starting at the back edge and going
about 6 to 8 feet toward the front of the property. The puddle is
about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep along a line that is about 3 or 4 feet
from the back edge of the roof. In other words, along the back
section of the roof, it actually pitches slightly in the wrong direct
causing the water to run back onto the roof rather than off of the
back edge of the roof and into the gutter.

So, do I have this right? You want to eliminate the puddle?

Yes, that is correct.

Why?

Since we will be doing the repair on the drip edge issue anyway, I thought
there may be an opportunity here to eliminate the puddle at the same time.
Eliminating the puddle would cause the water to run off rather than just sit
up there in a big puddle until it dries out. Not having water just sitting
there seems like it would make sense to me in terms of preventing future
leaks.
Some of the "best" flat roof systems are "wet" roofs. I don't like
flat roofs, period - but some membrane roofs that hold water
apparently last longer as they are kept "cool'? by holding water.

On Wed, 9 Nov 2011 12:44:05 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Nov 9, 7:08*am, "Ron" wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message

...

Ron wrote:

But, there is a secondary issue that I would like to address and fix
if I can at the same time. *The secondary issues is that over the
years part of the roof has sagged just enough to cause a large puddle
to form across the whole roof starting at the back edge and going
about 6 to 8 feet toward the front of the property. *The puddle is
about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep along a line that is about 3 or 4 feet
from the back edge of the roof. *In other words, along the back
section of the roof, it actually pitches slightly in the wrong direct
causing the water to run back onto the roof rather than off of the
back edge of the roof and into the gutter.

So, do I have this right? You want to eliminate the puddle?

Yes, that is correct.

Why?

Since we will be doing the repair on the drip edge issue anyway, I thought
there may be an opportunity here to eliminate the puddle at the same time.
Eliminating the puddle would cause the water to run off rather than just sit
up there in a big puddle until it dries out. *Not having water just sitting
there seems like it would make sense to me in terms of preventing future
leaks.

I grew up in a row house with a flat roof in NYC. Lived there for
25years.

I recall that we, and just about every other house on the block, had
puddles on our roofs after a rain ever since I was able to climb the
ladder in my closet and get out onto the roof to hang out.

I don't recall it ever being a problem.

Some hotels have swimming pools on the roof, too. ;-)

On Nov 9, 8:30*pm, "
wrote:
On Wed, 9 Nov 2011 12:44:05 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:









On Nov 9, 7:08*am, "Ron" wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message

...

Ron wrote:

But, there is a secondary issue that I would like to address and fix
if I can at the same time. *The secondary issues is that over the
years part of the roof has sagged just enough to cause a large puddle
to form across the whole roof starting at the back edge and going
about 6 to 8 feet toward the front of the property. *The puddle is
about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep along a line that is about 3 or 4 feet
from the back edge of the roof. *In other words, along the back
section of the roof, it actually pitches slightly in the wrong direct
causing the water to run back onto the roof rather than off of the
back edge of the roof and into the gutter.

So, do I have this right? You want to eliminate the puddle?

Yes, that is correct.

Why?

Since we will be doing the repair on the drip edge issue anyway, I thought
there may be an opportunity here to eliminate the puddle at the same time.
Eliminating the puddle would cause the water to run off rather than just sit
up there in a big puddle until it dries out. *Not having water just sitting
there seems like it would make sense to me in terms of preventing future
leaks.

I grew up in a row house with a flat roof in NYC. Lived there for
25years.

I recall that we, and just about every other house on the block, had
puddles on our roofs after a rain ever since I was able to climb the
ladder in my closet and get out onto the roof to hang out.

I don't recall it ever being a problem.
....

Some hotels have swimming pools on the roof, too. *;-)

The wife and I recently spent a few nights at the Hilton Bonaventure
in Montreal.

Not only do they have a year-round heated pool on the roof, but
gardens, streams and a "duck pond".

A bird's eye view:

http://tinyurl.com/Bonaventure-Roof-Hotel

A view of the garden walk:

http://tinyurl.com/Rooftop-gardengarden-walk

The pool in winter:

http://tinyurl.com/winter-pool

Ron wrote:
I have a flat roof on a rowhome/townhome-style building that I want
to do a repair/fix on. I am looking for some suggestions or options
for how to do it, what materials to use, etc.

Thanks again to everyone. The overwhelming consensus seems to be to forget
about the puddle that forms because it's been that way for a long time and
it doesn't leak -- so don't worry about it. Okie dokie, will do -- sort of.

We still had to deal with the drip edge and fascia problem. It turned out
that to do that we had to cut back the roof down to the rafters about 18
inches back from the edge of the roof. We replaced that section with
1/2-inch 4-ply plywood decking, created about a 1 inch overhang with the
plywood, and then fixed the drip edge so the water runoff now will go into
the gutter the way it is supposed to. The new 18-inch plywood section is
now on a slight pitch -- it pitches down about 1 inch over the 18-inch
length toward the gutter. So, now we have a new plywood deck across the
whole back edge of the roof, 18 inches wide and 20 feet across.

The question now is what type of roofing material to put on the 18 inch by
20 feet plywood decking that is on a slight pitch?

After cutting back the original roof, it turned out that it has: two
1/2-inch layers of sheetrock on top of the rafters which are on 16-inch
centers; then two layers of stiff asphalt decking(?) that are each about
1/4-inch thick; then 3/8-inch plywood; then the final roof which looks like
it may be some type of roll roofing or asphalt(?) that is about 3/16-inch
thick. That last layer is easy to separate from the 3/8-inch plywood, so
new roofing can be slid underneath that if needed.

When we added the new plywood decking along the back edge of the roof, we
lined it up so it matches with the existing 3/8-inch plywood decking. So,
we have the option of cutting back just the top 3/16-inch layer of the old
roof about 3 inches back from where the two plywoods meet -- then create new
roofing over both plywoods -- meaning the 18-inch new plywood and the 3
inches of exposed old plywood. Then, do whatever new roofing we choose to
cover that 21-inch span of old and new plywood decking.

One option is to use a GAF Liberty self-adhering roll roofing system that is
supposed to be for low-slope roofs. But, I am not sure about that.

Is there some other option for this small area that is about 21 inches wide
and 20 feet long of bare plywood decking? Would it be too weird to just
spray the plywood with asphalt primer (such as Karnak Quick Dry 108AF
Asphalt Primer), then just use roof cement and fiber mesh to create the new
roof for that 21-inch strip?

Or, any other suggestions?

On Nov 10, 10:21*am, "Ron" wrote:
Ron wrote:
I have a flat roof on a rowhome/townhome-style building that I want
to do a repair/fix on. *I am looking for some suggestions or options
for how to do it, what materials to use, etc.

Thanks again to everyone. *The overwhelming consensus seems to be to forget
about the puddle that forms because it's been that way for a long time and
it doesn't leak -- so don't worry about it. Okie dokie, will do -- sort of.

We still had to deal with the drip edge and fascia problem. *It turned out
that to do that we had to cut back the roof down to the rafters about 18
inches back from the edge of the roof. *We replaced that section with
1/2-inch 4-ply plywood decking, created about a 1 inch overhang with the
plywood, and then fixed the drip edge so the water runoff now will go into
the gutter the way it is supposed to. *The new 18-inch plywood section is
now on a slight pitch -- it pitches down about 1 inch over the 18-inch
length toward the gutter. *So, now we have a new plywood deck across the
whole back edge of the roof, 18 inches wide and 20 feet across.

The question now is what type of roofing material to put on the 18 inch by
20 feet plywood decking that is on a slight pitch?

After cutting back the original roof, it turned out that it has: two
1/2-inch layers of sheetrock on top of the rafters which are on 16-inch
centers; then two layers of stiff asphalt decking(?) that are each about
1/4-inch thick; then 3/8-inch plywood; then the final roof which looks like
it may be some type of roll roofing or asphalt(?) that is about 3/16-inch
thick. *That last layer is easy to separate from the 3/8-inch plywood, so
new roofing can be slid underneath that if needed.

When we added the new plywood decking along the back edge of the roof, we
lined it up so it matches with the existing 3/8-inch plywood decking. *So,
we have the option of cutting back just the top 3/16-inch layer of the old
roof about 3 inches back from where the two plywoods meet -- then create new
roofing over both plywoods -- meaning the 18-inch new plywood and the 3
inches of exposed old plywood. *Then, do whatever new roofing we choose to
cover that 21-inch span of old and new plywood decking.

One option is to use a GAF Liberty self-adhering roll roofing system that is
supposed to be for low-slope roofs. *But, I am not sure about that.

Is there some other option for this small area that is about 21 inches wide
and 20 feet long of bare plywood decking? *Would it be too weird to just
spray the plywood with asphalt primer (such as Karnak Quick Dry 108AF
Asphalt Primer), then just use roof cement and fiber mesh to create the new
roof for that 21-inch strip?

Or, any other suggestions?

the transistion areas you are creating will be the area of future
leaks. you will be far better off replacing the entire roof, if your
planning on keeping the home more than a few years.

and even if your selling the repair and puddle will complicate home
resale. and no doubt decrease your homes value

bob haller wrote:
On Nov 10, 10:21 am, "Ron" wrote:
Ron wrote:
I have a flat roof on a rowhome/townhome-style building that I want
to do a repair/fix on. I am looking for some suggestions or options
for how to do it, what materials to use, etc.

Thanks again to everyone. The overwhelming consensus seems to be to
forget about the puddle that forms because it's been that way for a
long time and it doesn't leak -- so don't worry about it. Okie
dokie, will do -- sort of.

We still had to deal with the drip edge and fascia problem. It
turned out that to do that we had to cut back the roof down to the
rafters about 18 inches back from the edge of the roof. We replaced
that section with 1/2-inch 4-ply plywood decking, created about a 1
inch overhang with the plywood, and then fixed the drip edge so the
water runoff now will go into the gutter the way it is supposed to.
The new 18-inch plywood section is now on a slight pitch -- it
pitches down about 1 inch over the 18-inch length toward the gutter.
So, now we have a new plywood deck across the whole back edge of the
roof, 18 inches wide and 20 feet across.

The question now is what type of roofing material to put on the 18
inch by 20 feet plywood decking that is on a slight pitch?

After cutting back the original roof, it turned out that it has: two
1/2-inch layers of sheetrock on top of the rafters which are on
16-inch centers; then two layers of stiff asphalt decking(?) that
are each about 1/4-inch thick; then 3/8-inch plywood; then the final
roof which looks like it may be some type of roll roofing or
asphalt(?) that is about 3/16-inch thick. That last layer is easy to
separate from the 3/8-inch plywood, so new roofing can be slid
underneath that if needed.

When we added the new plywood decking along the back edge of the
roof, we lined it up so it matches with the existing 3/8-inch
plywood decking. So, we have the option of cutting back just the top
3/16-inch layer of the old roof about 3 inches back from where the
two plywoods meet -- then create new roofing over both plywoods --
meaning the 18-inch new plywood and the 3 inches of exposed old
plywood. Then, do whatever new roofing we choose to cover that
21-inch span of old and new plywood decking.

One option is to use a GAF Liberty self-adhering roll roofing system
that is supposed to be for low-slope roofs. But, I am not sure about
that.

Is there some other option for this small area that is about 21
inches wide and 20 feet long of bare plywood decking? Would it be
too weird to just spray the plywood with asphalt primer (such as
Karnak Quick Dry 108AF Asphalt Primer), then just use roof cement
and fiber mesh to create the new roof for that 21-inch strip?

Or, any other suggestions?

the transistion areas you are creating will be the area of future
leaks. you will be far better off replacing the entire roof, if your
planning on keeping the home more than a few years.

Not if done correctly.


and even if your selling the repair and puddle will complicate home
resale. and no doubt decrease your homes value

Sell the home when the sun shines.

the transistion areas you are creating will be the area of future
leaks. you will be far better off replacing the entire roof, if your
planning on keeping the home more than a few years.

Not if done correctly.



and even if your selling the repair and puddle will complicate home
resale. and no doubt decrease your homes value

Sell the home when the sun shines.-

IN PA all such not normal issues MUST BE DISCLOSED at home resale or
the seller can be sued for the entire amount of repair, and even lost
revenue on a rental if the repair disrups renting or tenants use of
home.

a neighbor lady sold her home with a bad sewer line, and got sued for
10 grand in repairs. she failed to disclose she knew it was defective

Ron wrote:

One option is to use a GAF Liberty self-adhering roll roofing system
that is supposed to be for low-slope roofs. But, I am not sure about
that.
Is there some other option for this small area that is about 21
inches wide and 20 feet long of bare plywood decking? Would it be
too weird to just spray the plywood with asphalt primer (such as
Karnak Quick Dry 108AF Asphalt Primer), then just use roof cement and
fiber mesh to create the new roof for that 21-inch strip?


The experts can offer more opinions, but if I read your choices right, you
are trying to decide between something that's up to 1/8th of an inch thick
(the GAF product) and something whose thickeness is measured in microns.

Let me think...

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 10:21:16 -0500, "Ron" wrote:


One option is to use a GAF Liberty self-adhering roll roofing system that is
supposed to be for low-slope roofs. But, I am not sure about that.

Is there some other option for this small area that is about 21 inches wide
and 20 feet long of bare plywood decking? Would it be too weird to just
spray the plywood with asphalt primer (such as Karnak Quick Dry 108AF
Asphalt Primer), then just use roof cement and fiber mesh to create the new
roof for that 21-inch strip?

Or, any other suggestions?


Here's what I'd do.
Use roll roofing about the same thickness as the original.
Apply a good coat of roofing cement on the 2" you slide under the old
stuff.
Roofing nails every 4" along the 20', at the overlap and the bottom.
Done.

--Vic

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 08:25:21 -0800 (PST), bob haller wrote:


the transistion areas you are creating will be the area of future
leaks. you will be far better off replacing the entire roof, if your
planning on keeping the home more than a few years.

Not if done correctly.



and even if your selling the repair and puddle will complicate home
resale. and no doubt decrease your homes value

Sell the home when the sun shines.-

IN PA all such not normal issues MUST BE DISCLOSED at home resale or
the seller can be sued for the entire amount of repair, and even lost
revenue on a rental if the repair disrups renting or tenants use of
home.

Disclosure is a joke. "Yep, saw problem. Fixed same.": Disclosed.

a neighbor lady sold her home with a bad sewer line, and got sued for
10 grand in repairs. she failed to disclose she knew it was defective

Vic Smith wrote:
On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 10:21:16 -0500, "Ron" wrote:


One option is to use a GAF Liberty self-adhering roll roofing system
that is supposed to be for low-slope roofs. But, I am not sure
about that.

Is there some other option for this small area that is about 21
inches wide and 20 feet long of bare plywood decking? Would it be
too weird to just spray the plywood with asphalt primer (such as
Karnak Quick Dry 108AF Asphalt Primer), then just use roof cement
and fiber mesh to create the new roof for that 21-inch strip?

Or, any other suggestions?


Here's what I'd do.
Use roll roofing about the same thickness as the original.
Apply a good coat of roofing cement on the 2" you slide under the old
stuff.
Roofing nails every 4" along the 20', at the overlap and the bottom.
Done.

--Vic

Thanks Vic. I like that idea and I think that's what we'll end up doing.

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 11:11:40 -0600, "
wrote:

IN PA all such not normal issues MUST BE DISCLOSED at home resale or
the seller can be sued for the entire amount of repair, and even lost
revenue on a rental if the repair disrups renting or tenants use of
home.

Disclosure is a joke. "Yep, saw problem. Fixed same.": Disclosed.

I can't disclose something I do not know.

Ever see folks talking about they have mold. Not something to openly
admit. Call it discoloration or something else.

I'm not a trained mold expert :-/

bob haller wrote:
the transistion areas you are creating will be the area of future
leaks. you will be far better off replacing the entire roof, if
your planning on keeping the home more than a few years.

Not if done correctly.



and even if your selling the repair and puddle will complicate home
resale. and no doubt decrease your homes value

Sell the home when the sun shines.-

IN PA all such not normal issues MUST BE DISCLOSED at home resale or
the seller can be sued for the entire amount of repair, and even lost
revenue on a rental if the repair disrups renting or tenants use of
home.

a neighbor lady sold her home with a bad sewer line, and got sued for
10 grand in repairs. she failed to disclose she knew it was defective

Sure she should have disclosed, she knew the sewer line was defective. A
puddle on a flat roof is NOT a defect. It causes no damage nor ever will
cause any damage. At worst it might cause uncontrollable twitching on the
part of a fuddy-duddie owner.

And I dispute your claim that "not normals" must be disclosed. If the house
was painted in vivid colors would you have to disclose that? How about
mismatched brick on the outside veneer? A double-ugly wrought-iron sculpture
in the patio? Substantial hooks in the ceiling of the master bedroom, whose
purpose shall not be mentioned?

Jay-B wrote:
Vic Smith wrote:
On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 10:21:16 -0500, "Ron" wrote:


One option is to use a GAF Liberty self-adhering roll roofing system
that is supposed to be for low-slope roofs. But, I am not sure
about that.

Is there some other option for this small area that is about 21
inches wide and 20 feet long of bare plywood decking? Would it be
too weird to just spray the plywood with asphalt primer (such as
Karnak Quick Dry 108AF Asphalt Primer), then just use roof cement
and fiber mesh to create the new roof for that 21-inch strip?

Or, any other suggestions?


Here's what I'd do.
Use roll roofing about the same thickness as the original.
Apply a good coat of roofing cement on the 2" you slide under the old
stuff.
Roofing nails every 4" along the 20', at the overlap and the bottom.
Done.

--Vic

Thanks Vic. I like that idea and I think that's what we'll end up
doing.

Vic,

Oops, I had to post the above reply from a different account and I just
realized that it showed up as being from "Jay-B" -- but it is actually from
me, the OP, a.k.a. "Ron".

Also, I just met with the person that I have doing the work and he thought
your idea of just using roll roofing, roofing cement, and roofing nails at
the overlap makes sense. So, we are skipping the idea of using the Liberty
self-adhesive roll roofing system etc. Your suggestion should work fine and
be much easier and less expensive to do.

Thanks again.

bob haller wrote:
the transistion areas you are creating will be the area of future
leaks. you will be far better off replacing the entire roof, if
your planning on keeping the home more than a few years.

Not if done correctly.



and even if your selling the repair and puddle will complicate home
resale. and no doubt decrease your homes value

Sell the home when the sun shines.-

IN PA all such not normal issues MUST BE DISCLOSED at home resale or
the seller can be sued for the entire amount of repair, and even lost
revenue on a rental if the repair disrups renting or tenants use of
home.

a neighbor lady sold her home with a bad sewer line, and got sued for
10 grand in repairs. she failed to disclose she knew it was defective

I am in NJ, not PA, but I am near Philadelphia PA. I also own properties in
both NJ and PA and I know all of the disclosure rules etc. when it comes to
selling, renting, etc. I have no plan to sell now or in the future, so
everything I own is a permanent buy-and-hold and will only end up being
inherited. But, if I were to sell, I would simply disclose whatever is the
truth about each property, so I am not concerned about disclosure.

In what part of PA are you located?

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 11:56:40 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 11:11:40 -0600, "
wrote:

IN PA all such not normal issues MUST BE DISCLOSED at home resale or
the seller can be sued for the entire amount of repair, and even lost
revenue on a rental if the repair disrups renting or tenants use of
home.

Disclosure is a joke. "Yep, saw problem. Fixed same.": Disclosed.

I can't disclose something I do not know.

Right. They would have to prove that you know. That's certainly possible,
particularly if you ask stupid questions. ;-)

Ever see folks talking about they have mold. Not something to openly
admit. Call it discoloration or something else.

I've seen plenty who admit it freely here. ;-)

I'm not a trained mold expert :-/

Right. Don't ask questions where you might not like the answers.

I am in NJ, not PA, but I am near Philadelphia PA. *I also own properties in
both NJ and PA and I know all of the disclosure rules etc. when it comes to
selling, renting, etc. *I have no plan to sell now or in the future, so
everything I own is a permanent buy-and-hold and will only end up being
inherited. *But, if I were to sell, I would simply disclose whatever is the
truth about each property, so I am not concerned about disclosure.

In what part of PA are you located

I am in pittsburgh. Realtors around here say they must sell homes
TWICE, one before the inspection and one after.....

disclosure rules state you must list everything that had troubles and
what you did to fix them over many years. the statement is worded
brodly, to trip up anything you forget..

On Nov 10, 8:53*pm, bob haller wrote:
I am in NJ, not PA, but I am near Philadelphia PA. *I also own properties in
both NJ and PA and I know all of the disclosure rules etc. when it comes to
selling, renting, etc. *I have no plan to sell now or in the future, so
everything I own is a permanent buy-and-hold and will only end up being
inherited. *But, if I were to sell, I would simply disclose whatever is the
truth about each property, so I am not concerned about disclosure.

In what part of PA are you located

I am in pittsburgh. Realtors around here say they must sell homes
TWICE, one before the inspection and one after.....

disclosure rules state you must list everything that had troubles and
what you did to fix them over many years. the statement is worded
brodly, to trip up anything you forget..

"...must list everything that had troubles and what you did to fix
them"

The bathroom sink got clogged with hair. I snaked it.
The garbage disposer rusted out. I replaced it.
The shower head lost flow due to mineral deposits. I soaked it in
vinegar.
The glazing came off the windows. I reglazed them.

Everything? Really? That would be a very long list.

"...over many years."

Please define "many".

On Nov 10, 9:06*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Nov 10, 8:53*pm, bob haller wrote:

I am in NJ, not PA, but I am near Philadelphia PA. *I also own properties in
both NJ and PA and I know all of the disclosure rules etc. when it comes to
selling, renting, etc. *I have no plan to sell now or in the future, so
everything I own is a permanent buy-and-hold and will only end up being
inherited. *But, if I were to sell, I would simply disclose whatever is the
truth about each property, so I am not concerned about disclosure.

In what part of PA are you located

I am in pittsburgh. Realtors around here say they must sell homes
TWICE, one before the inspection and one after.....

disclosure rules state you must list everything that had troubles and
what you did to fix them over many years. the statement is worded
brodly, to trip up anything you forget..

"...must list everything that had troubles and what you did to fix
them"

The bathroom sink got clogged with hair. I snaked it.
The garbage disposer rusted out. I replaced it.
The shower head lost flow due to mineral deposits. I soaked it in
vinegar.
The glazing came off the windows. I reglazed them.

Everything? Really? That would be a very long list.

"...over many years."

Please define "many".

i only had solid info from when my mom and step dad got ill, and put
that on the disclosure form too.

it was a broadly worded document.

I was told lawyers of homebuyers who find problems check with all
contractors in the area.

often times the original owners had contacted contractors before
selling.

heck once a old girl friend called me to look at a home she was
thinking of buying...... I called some contractor friends to inspect
different parts of the home.

my buddy the roofer showed up, he said hi the house needs a new roof,
the roof is soft in many areas and all bad around the chimney which
needs taken down or replaced. I said you havent been on the roof...
how do you know this?

He had been out patching the roof for several years.....

it needed completely replaced with a new deck.....

the plumber found this from inside too, when he checked the cast iron
sewer stack that was bad.

the house was a wreck she didnt buy it, and thanked me for saving her
from disaster

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 17:53:23 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

But, if I were to sell, I would simply disclose whatever is the
truth about each property, so I am not concerned about disclosure.


Yes. Disclose what was disclosed to me, when I bought the property.

In what part of PA are you located

I am in pittsburgh. Realtors around here say they must sell homes
TWICE, one before the inspection and one after.....

disclosure rules state you must list everything that had troubles and
what you did to fix them over many years. the statement is worded
brodly, to trip up anything you forget..

I bought and sold a house in central PA. You might be reading
"disclosure" too seriously. Disclosure is for things like "back yard
was a former ammo dump", three jobs were permitted and here are the
papers... not something like changing a light bulb in an oven.

I won't disclose I found a hidden electrical box in the wall, because
I fixed problem without a permit. Nor, that I moved a closet door to
an opposite wall (nothing structural changed).

The sky is falling: disclose, disclose, disclose....

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 14:27:21 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

l hooks in the ceiling of the master bedroom, whose
purpose shall not be mentioned?

If the light ceiling box was removed, wires not capped or taped,
pushed into the ceiling space, then remove the big hook and fix the
mess.

BTDT

On Fri, 11 Nov 2011 13:20:40 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 17:53:23 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

But, if I were to sell, I would simply disclose whatever is the
truth about each property, so I am not concerned about disclosure.


Yes. Disclose what was disclosed to me, when I bought the property.

In what part of PA are you located

I am in pittsburgh. Realtors around here say they must sell homes
TWICE, one before the inspection and one after.....

disclosure rules state you must list everything that had troubles and
what you did to fix them over many years. the statement is worded
brodly, to trip up anything you forget..

I bought and sold a house in central PA. You might be reading
"disclosure" too seriously. Disclosure is for things like "back yard
was a former ammo dump", three jobs were permitted and here are the
papers... not something like changing a light bulb in an oven.

I won't disclose I found a hidden electrical box in the wall, because
I fixed problem without a permit. Nor, that I moved a closet door to
an opposite wall (nothing structural changed).

The sky is falling: disclose, disclose, disclose....

Um, I think you just did. ;-)

On Nov 11, 4:20*pm, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 17:53:23 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

But, if I were to sell, I would simply disclose whatever is the
truth about each property, so I am not concerned about disclosure.

Yes. Disclose what was disclosed to me, when I bought the property.

In what part of PA are you located

I am in pittsburgh. Realtors around here say they must sell homes
TWICE, one before the inspection and one after.....

disclosure rules state you must list everything that had troubles and
what you did to fix them over many years. the statement is worded
brodly, to trip up anything you forget..

I bought and sold a house in central PA. You might be reading
"disclosure" too seriously. *Disclosure is for things like "back yard
was a former ammo dump", three jobs were permitted and here are the
papers... not something like changing a light bulb in an oven.

I won't disclose I found a hidden electrical box in the wall, because
I fixed problem without a permit. Nor, that I moved a closet door to
an opposite wall (nothing structural changed).

The sky is falling: disclose, disclose, disclose....

well one buyer complained of a tiny gutter leak, a 5 minute fix. that
buyer ultimately backed out and the realtor required i add gutter
repair to the disclosure form...

On Fri, 11 Nov 2011 18:33:03 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

The sky is falling: disclose, disclose, disclose....

well one buyer complained of a tiny gutter leak, a 5 minute fix. that
buyer ultimately backed out and the realtor required i add gutter
repair to the disclosure form...

Is there a reason you did not spend five minutes and repair the leak?

Nevada is a disclosure state. I came to work on my current house so
it could go on the market for an agent. I was being paid to detail the
home for market. I told my agent: "I'm buying this house!"

My offer was accepted within six hours.

No inspection, no disclosure, just be out of the house on closing
morning. I still got paid for work, mostly helping the lady get ready
for a major change in her life of moving back east.

On 11/10/2011 7:53 PM, bob haller wrote:
....

disclosure rules state you must list everything that had troubles and
what you did to fix them over many years. the statement is worded
brodly, to trip up anything you forget..

Nonsense. The requirement is to disclose "material defects". The
definition of a material defect (PA law; yes I looked it up) is not
every little cosmetic modification nor minor repair.

“Material Defect” is defined as a problem with a residential real
property or any portion of it that would have a significant adverse
impact on the value of the property or that involves an unreasonable
risk to people in the property. The fact that a structural element,
system or subsystem is near, at or beyond the end of the normal useful
life of such a structural element, system or subsystem is not by itself
a material defect. See 68 Pa.C.S.A. Section 7102.


In addition, the legislation is specifically written such that unless
you willingly and knowing hide a material defect, you're not liable for
something unknown to you or forgotten. If it comes to light there is
something all you have to do to rectify the problem is to make it known
at that time.

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On Sat, 12 Nov 2011 16:13:34 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/10/2011 7:53 PM, bob haller wrote:
...

disclosure rules state you must list everything that had troubles and
what you did to fix them over many years. the statement is worded
brodly, to trip up anything you forget..

Nonsense. The requirement is to disclose "material defects". The
definition of a material defect (PA law; yes I looked it up) is not
every little cosmetic modification nor minor repair.

“Material Defect” is defined as a problem with a residential real
property or any portion of it that would have a significant adverse
impact on the value of the property or that involves an unreasonable
risk to people in the property. The fact that a structural element,
system or subsystem is near, at or beyond the end of the normal useful
life of such a structural element, system or subsystem is not by itself
a material defect. See 68 Pa.C.S.A. Section 7102.


In addition, the legislation is specifically written such that unless
you willingly and knowing hide a material defect, you're not liable for
something unknown to you or forgotten. If it comes to light there is
something all you have to do to rectify the problem is to make it known
at that time.

Outstanding.

Disclosure is at all about nit-picking.

On 11/12/2011 4:22 PM, Oren wrote:
....

Disclosure is at all about nit-picking.

???

Is there a "not" missing here, maybe???

--

On Nov 12, 4:48*pm, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 11 Nov 2011 18:33:03 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

The sky is falling: disclose, disclose, disclose....

well one buyer complained of a tiny gutter leak, a 5 minute fix. that
buyer ultimately backed out and the realtor required i add gutter
repair to the disclosure form...

Is there a reason you did not spend five minutes and repair the leak?

Nevada is a disclosure state. *I came to work on my current house so
it could go on the market for an agent. I was being paid to detail the
home for market. I told my agent: "I'm buying this house!"

My offer was accepted within six hours.

No inspection, no disclosure, just be out of the house on closing
morning. *I still got paid for work, mostly helping the lady get ready
for a major change in her life of moving back east.

I repaired the gutter leak, cleaned and sealed it. 15 minute job

but realtor insisted that repair be added to the disclosure form.

the buyer backed out anyway, the home inspector scared them
off .......

the first home inspector flagged no GFCI for garage sump pump.........
so i installed one

the second home inspector flagged the sump pumps GFCI, stating it was
bad to have a GFCI on a garage sump pump.....

the first home inspector flagged the main service panel for a faded
signature on the inspection sticker, you could see it had been signed
but the signature wasnt really legible First buyer insisted I have it
reinspected and it passed. cost 75 bucks

home inspector flagged a brand new water heater for gas leak, it
required replacement of main gas valve. plumber checked it before
replacement said it was fine no leak.

seems home inspectors look for non existent troubles to justify their
fee........

......

On 11/12/2011 5:11 PM, bob haller wrote:
....

home inspector flagged a brand new water heater for gas leak, it
required replacement of main gas valve. plumber checked it before
replacement said it was fine no leak.

Do you just let them roll you over? Make 'em prove it if it isn't so
(or, of course, if the first guy was wrong seems like should have
recourse there as well).

seems home inspectors look for non existent troubles to justify their
fee........

......

It's their job to find problems but there's no reason in letting
nonsense stand unchallenged.

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