I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

On Sep 19, 9:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 *storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

I'd ues a regular disconnect myself. They're only about $10 at
lowes. Some home and code inspectors will give you grief over the
switch. Transition at the disconnect. Put the disconnect a foot or
two up from the bottom. SInce it's not serving as a breaker panel the
location only matters in that it should be visible from the other
electrical stuff. Since you're inside a small shed that's pretty much
always the case.

If you use regular romex it needs to be in a location protected from
accidental impact. If this is a conventional framed unfinished shed
most inspectors will let you nail it to the side of the studs. A few
might get anal about it. You could go ahead and use pvc throughout.

On Sep 19, 11:06*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Sep 19, 9:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 *storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

I'd ues a regular disconnect myself. *They're only about $10 at
lowes. *Some home and code inspectors will give you grief over the
switch. *Transition at the disconnect. *Put the disconnect a foot or
two up from the bottom. *SInce it's not serving as a breaker panel the
location only matters in that it should be visible from the other
electrical stuff. *Since you're inside a small shed that's pretty much
always the case.

If you use regular romex it needs to be in a location protected from
accidental impact. *If this is a conventional framed unfinished shed
most inspectors will let you nail it to the side of the studs. *A few
might get anal about it. *You could go ahead and use pvc throughout.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks!

By "the side of the studs" I assume you mean the side perpendicular to
the walls, not the face that points towards the interior of the shed.

If that's the case, and I have to span several stud bays, what's the
best way to accomplish that? I'd prefer that all runs go up to the
underside of the top plate and then across as opposed to spanning open
areas of the bays where I store "narrow" materials like lengths of
trim, etc. However, if the runs go up to the top plate, I can't drill
through the stud near the top because of the screws holding the plate
to the stud.

Do I just come down a few inches, go through the stud and then back up
to the underside of the plate and continue on?

On 9/19/2011 10:18 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

By "the side of the studs" I assume you mean the side perpendicular to
the walls, not the face that points towards the interior of the shed.

If that's the case, and I have to span several stud bays, what's the
best way to accomplish that? I'd prefer that all runs go up to the
underside of the top plate and then across as opposed to spanning open
areas of the bays where I store "narrow" materials like lengths of
trim, etc. However, if the runs go up to the top plate, I can't drill
through the stud near the top because of the screws holding the plate
to the stud.

Do I just come down a few inches, go through the stud and then back up
to the underside of the plate and continue on?

Do whatever works, basically.

I can't imagine there are so many or so large of screws there's not room
enough for a hole large enough for a single run of Romex wherever it's
wanted, basically.

I'm partial as another says to run conduit, anyway

On Sep 19, 11:54*am, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 08:06:04 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc





wrote:
On Sep 19, 9:47 am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

I'd ues a regular disconnect myself. *They're only about $10 at
lowes. *Some home and code inspectors will give you grief over the
switch. *Transition at the disconnect. *Put the disconnect a foot or
two up from the bottom. *SInce it's not serving as a breaker panel the
location only matters in that it should be visible from the other
electrical stuff. *Since you're inside a small shed that's pretty much
always the case.

If you use regular romex it needs to be in a location protected from
accidental impact. *If this is a conventional framed unfinished shed
most inspectors will let you nail it to the side of the studs. *A few
might get anal about it. *You could go ahead and use pvc throughout.

Most inspectors would have a pretty lenient policy on a single 15/20a
branch circuit disconnect (I would be OK with a 20a rated snap switch)
but they might be tougher on the "damage" question inside the shed.
Why not just keep going with the RNC at least up to the ceiling.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Last time I looked a 20amp switch was about as expensive as a
disconnect in a metal box. Disconnect in a box $7.68 at lowes. Why
not?

On Sep 19, 12:14*pm, dpb wrote:
On 9/19/2011 10:18 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

By "the side of the studs" I assume you mean the side perpendicular to
the walls, not the face that points towards the interior of the shed.

If that's the case, and I have to span several stud bays, what's the
best way to accomplish that? I'd prefer that all runs go up to the
underside of the top plate and then across as opposed to spanning open
areas of the bays where I store "narrow" materials like lengths of
trim, etc. However, if the runs go up to the top plate, I can't drill
through the stud near the top because of the screws holding the plate
to the stud.

Do I just come down a few inches, go through the stud and then back up
to the underside of the plate and continue on?

Do whatever works, basically.

I can't imagine there are so many or so large of screws there's not room
enough for a hole large enough for a single run of Romex wherever it's
wanted, basically.

I'm partial as another says to run conduit, anyway

Well, since the shed was built from a kit with 2 x 3 studs, there
isn't a lot of room on either side of the screws to drill a hole -
assuming I knew exactly where the screws are - fairly centered, I
hope! ;-)

As I plan the actual layout of the switches and fixtures, I'll figure
it out as I go along.

Thanks!

On Sep 19, 12:37*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Sep 19, 11:54*am, wrote:





On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 08:06:04 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
On Sep 19, 9:47 am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

I'd ues a regular disconnect myself. *They're only about $10 at
lowes. *Some home and code inspectors will give you grief over the
switch. *Transition at the disconnect. *Put the disconnect a foot or
two up from the bottom. *SInce it's not serving as a breaker panel the
location only matters in that it should be visible from the other
electrical stuff. *Since you're inside a small shed that's pretty much
always the case.

If you use regular romex it needs to be in a location protected from
accidental impact. *If this is a conventional framed unfinished shed
most inspectors will let you nail it to the side of the studs. *A few
might get anal about it. *You could go ahead and use pvc throughout.

Most inspectors would have a pretty lenient policy on a single 15/20a
branch circuit disconnect (I would be OK with a 20a rated snap switch)
but they might be tougher on the "damage" question inside the shed.
Why not just keep going with the RNC at least up to the ceiling.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Last time I looked a 20amp switch was about as expensive as a
disconnect in a metal box. *Disconnect in a box $7.68 at lowes. *Why
not?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll look into that.

Another question related to the disconnect:

Whichever option I choose, can I run multiple wires directly from the
disconnect or do I need a junction box?

In other words, after the disconnect I want the receptacle to always
be live and have the light fixture controlled by the motion detector.
Can I attach the wires for both runs to the output of the disconnect
or do I need to use a junction box after the disconnect and then
branch off from there?

On Sep 19, 1:18*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sep 19, 12:37*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:





On Sep 19, 11:54*am, wrote:

On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 08:06:04 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
On Sep 19, 9:47 am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

I'd ues a regular disconnect myself. *They're only about $10 at
lowes. *Some home and code inspectors will give you grief over the
switch. *Transition at the disconnect. *Put the disconnect a foot or
two up from the bottom. *SInce it's not serving as a breaker panel the
location only matters in that it should be visible from the other
electrical stuff. *Since you're inside a small shed that's pretty much
always the case.

If you use regular romex it needs to be in a location protected from
accidental impact. *If this is a conventional framed unfinished shed
most inspectors will let you nail it to the side of the studs. *A few
might get anal about it. *You could go ahead and use pvc throughout.

On Sep 19, 8:06*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Sep 19, 9:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 *storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

I'd ues a regular disconnect myself. *They're only about $10 at
lowes. *Some home and code inspectors will give you grief over the
switch. *Transition at the disconnect. *Put the disconnect a foot or
two up from the bottom. *SInce it's not serving as a breaker panel the
location only matters in that it should be visible from the other
electrical stuff. *Since you're inside a small shed that's pretty much
always the case.

If you use regular romex it needs to be in a location protected from
accidental impact. *If this is a conventional framed unfinished shed
most inspectors will let you nail it to the side of the studs. *A few
might get anal about it. *You could go ahead and use pvc throughout.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why not use romex for the underground run. It does come in direct
burial. Might be cheaper to buy a 12-2 WG romex than individual
wires.

Not an electrician but my run would be Disconnect - double box with
duplex outlet and a switch for the lights. Evem of they are motion
dectectors it is best to wire them through a switch - some require a
switch to reset them if they fault to constant on. Any additional
outlets come off the outlet in that first box. Of course the right
way (as I understand it) would be the feed into the shed into a
subpanel and go from there. But that would be if the circuit started
in a panel.

Harry K

On Sep 19, 3:05*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Sep 19, 8:06*am, jamesgangnc wrote:





On Sep 19, 9:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 *storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

I'd ues a regular disconnect myself. *They're only about $10 at
lowes. *Some home and code inspectors will give you grief over the
switch. *Transition at the disconnect. *Put the disconnect a foot or
two up from the bottom. *SInce it's not serving as a breaker panel the
location only matters in that it should be visible from the other
electrical stuff. *Since you're inside a small shed that's pretty much
always the case.

If you use regular romex it needs to be in a location protected from
accidental impact. *If this is a conventional framed unfinished shed
most inspectors will let you nail it to the side of the studs. *A few
might get anal about it. *You could go ahead and use pvc throughout.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why not use romex for the underground run. *It does come in direct
burial. *Might be cheaper to buy a 12-2 WG romex than individual
wires.

Not an electrician but my run would be Disconnect - double box *with
duplex outlet and a switch for the lights. *Evem of they are motion
dectectors it is best to wire them through a switch - some require a
switch to reset them if they fault to constant on. * Any additional
outlets come off the outlet in that first box. *Of course the right
way (as I understand it) would be the feed into the shed into a
subpanel and go from there. *But that would be if the circuit started
in a panel.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I try to use pvc for burial. Most places let you go a little less
down but for me the big plus is not having to deal with an underground
splice when I forget the wire is there and the wife has me digging a
hole there for a plant.

On Sep 19, 3:05*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Sep 19, 8:06*am, jamesgangnc wrote:





On Sep 19, 9:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 *storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

I'd ues a regular disconnect myself. *They're only about $10 at
lowes. *Some home and code inspectors will give you grief over the
switch. *Transition at the disconnect. *Put the disconnect a foot or
two up from the bottom. *SInce it's not serving as a breaker panel the
location only matters in that it should be visible from the other
electrical stuff. *Since you're inside a small shed that's pretty much
always the case.

If you use regular romex it needs to be in a location protected from
accidental impact. *If this is a conventional framed unfinished shed
most inspectors will let you nail it to the side of the studs. *A few
might get anal about it. *You could go ahead and use pvc throughout.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why not use romex for the underground run. *It does come in direct
burial. *Might be cheaper to buy a 12-2 WG romex than individual
wires.

Not an electrician but my run would be Disconnect - double box *with
duplex outlet and a switch for the lights. *Evem of they are motion
dectectors it is best to wire them through a switch - some require a
switch to reset them if they fault to constant on. * Any additional
outlets come off the outlet in that first box. *Of course the right
way (as I understand it) would be the feed into the shed into a
subpanel and go from there. *But that would be if the circuit started
in a panel.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The motion snesor will be of the style that has a switch like they
have in the conference and rest rooms where I work, not just a "remote
sensor" like you would have for a securty light.

Thanks for your other suggestions.

On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 06:47:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!
The disconnect MUST be reachable from the open door, and you can
transition to Romex from any junction box, which must be left
accessible, providing the romex is protected according to code.
Myself? I'd bring the conduit right up to the disconnect box.

On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 12:05:17 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Sep 19, 8:06Â*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Sep 19, 9:47Â*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 Â*storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

I'd ues a regular disconnect myself. Â*They're only about $10 at
lowes. Â*Some home and code inspectors will give you grief over the
switch. Â*Transition at the disconnect. Â*Put the disconnect a foot or
two up from the bottom. Â*SInce it's not serving as a breaker panel the
location only matters in that it should be visible from the other
electrical stuff. Â*Since you're inside a small shed that's pretty much
always the case.

If you use regular romex it needs to be in a location protected from
accidental impact. Â*If this is a conventional framed unfinished shed
most inspectors will let you nail it to the side of the studs. Â*A few
might get anal about it. Â*You could go ahead and use pvc throughout.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why not use romex for the underground run. It does come in direct
burial. Might be cheaper to buy a 12-2 WG romex than individual
wires.

Not an electrician but my run would be Disconnect - double box with
duplex outlet and a switch for the lights. Evem of they are motion
dectectors it is best to wire them through a switch - some require a
switch to reset them if they fault to constant on. Any additional
outlets come off the outlet in that first box. Of course the right
way (as I understand it) would be the feed into the shed into a
subpanel and go from there. But that would be if the circuit started
in a panel.

Harry K


The disconnect will function as the switch to reset the motion
detector, so why add another switch?

On 9/19/2011 11:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....
Well, since the shed was built from a kit with 2 x 3 studs, there
isn't a lot of room on either side of the screws to drill a hole -
assuming I knew exactly where the screws are - fairly centered, I
hope! ;-)

As I plan the actual layout of the switches and fixtures, I'll figure
it out as I go along.
....

OK, wasn't thinking of the reduced dimension, but I'd drill the hole
where I wanted it and if that means driving another fastener later
because I hit one, so be it.

--

On 9/19/2011 3:53 PM, wrote:
(snip)
The best way to go is to use an LB conduit body where it transitions
into the building, That splits up your pull a little and makes it
easier going. You will usually just have 2 bends then.
I like to suck some pulling lube through the pipe with my shop vac
before I start (squirt it in one end and suck it out the other) while
you are sucking the pull string through. Then squirt some in the other
way as you are pulling the wire back.That will make your pull go very
easily.

Good thing I'm not allowed to hit Usenet from work. I think your
description would set off the NetNanny alarms they have, based on too
many buzzwords for dirty stuff. :^/


--
aem sends...

On Sep 19, 5:31*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 16:31:35 -0400, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 06:47:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 *storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!
The disconnect MUST be reachable from the open door, and you can
transition to Romex from any junction box, which must be left
accessible, providing the romex is protected according to code.
Myself? I'd bring the conduit right up to the disconnect box.

That may be a Canadian thing about the door *but in the US it is
supposed to be right where the wire enters the building.
Generally you will come up out of the ground to a reasonable inside
switch height on the outside, LB through the wall and set a box and
disconnect on the inside. You can then fan out your circuits from
there. Again the inspector would usually have some leniency if you
came up the inside wall in conduit directly to the switch.
After all, these are not service conductors. and he is on the load
side of a GFCI.
Personally I think a single circuit to a residential shed should not
need the disconnect at all but I didn't write the code, I just have to
enforce it.

"225.32 Location.
The disconnecting means shall be installed either inside or outside of
the building or structure served or where the conductors pass through
the building or structure. The disconnecting means shall be at a
readily accessible location nearest the point of entrance of the
conductors. For the purposes of this section, the requirements in
230.6 shall be utilized."

I came up inside the shed and the conduit currently runs about halfway
up the wall inside a stud bay. That's where I stopped until I checked
out how to proceed.

How about if I continue the conduit up that stud bay and put the
disconnect near the top plate so that it won't be blocked by items
stored on the floor? The top plate is 6' from the floor and I could
reach the disconnect after taking one step into the shed. A taller
person could probably reach it from the door.

From there I can fan out to my receptacle and light switch.

Sound OK?

On Sep 19, 3:53*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 12:05:17 -0700 (PDT), Harry K









wrote:

Why not use romex for the underground run. *It does come in direct
burial. *Might be cheaper to buy a 12-2 WG romex than individual
wires.

Not an electrician but my run would be Disconnect - double box *with
duplex outlet and a switch for the lights. *Evem of they are motion
dectectors it is best to wire them through a switch - some require a
switch to reset them if they fault to constant on. * Any additional
outlets come off the outlet in that first box. *Of course the right
way (as I understand it) would be the feed into the shed into a
subpanel and go from there. *But that would be if the circuit started
in a panel.

Harry K

He can use UF, cable similar to Romex (actually a brand name for type
NM-b a dry location only cable).
I am not sure it would really be cheaper and he will be locked into
the wire size he runs if his needs change.
Personally I would run 3/4" conduit since the difference in price from
1/2" is minimal, your pull will be a lot easier and that will leave
your options open.

The best way to go is to use an LB conduit body where it transitions
into the building, That splits up your pull a little and makes it
easier going. You will usually just have 2 bends then.
I like to suck some pulling lube through the pipe with my shop vac
before I start (squirt it in one end and suck it out the other) while
you are sucking the pull string through. Then squirt some in the other
way as you are pulling the wire back.That will make your pull go very
easily.

No need to discuss conduit vs. UF since I already ran the conduit and
pulled the wires. I now know I should have used 3/4" instead of 1/2"
so I'll count this as a lesson learned. :-(

Next time...

On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 17:26:24 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sep 19, 5:31Â*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 16:31:35 -0400, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 06:47:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 Â*storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!
The disconnect MUST be reachable from the open door, and you can
transition to Romex from any junction box, which must be left
accessible, providing the romex is protected according to code.
Myself? I'd bring the conduit right up to the disconnect box.

That may be a Canadian thing about the door Â*but in the US it is
supposed to be right where the wire enters the building.
Generally you will come up out of the ground to a reasonable inside
switch height on the outside, LB through the wall and set a box and
disconnect on the inside. You can then fan out your circuits from
there. Again the inspector would usually have some leniency if you
came up the inside wall in conduit directly to the switch.
After all, these are not service conductors. and he is on the load
side of a GFCI.
Personally I think a single circuit to a residential shed should not
need the disconnect at all but I didn't write the code, I just have to
enforce it.

"225.32 Location.
The disconnecting means shall be installed either inside or outside of
the building or structure served or where the conductors pass through
the building or structure. The disconnecting means shall be at a
readily accessible location nearest the point of entrance of the
conductors. For the purposes of this section, the requirements in
230.6 shall be utilized."

I came up inside the shed and the conduit currently runs about halfway
up the wall inside a stud bay. That's where I stopped until I checked
out how to proceed.

How about if I continue the conduit up that stud bay and put the
disconnect near the top plate so that it won't be blocked by items
stored on the floor? The top plate is 6' from the floor and I could
reach the disconnect after taking one step into the shed. A taller
person could probably reach it from the door.

From there I can fan out to my receptacle and light switch.

Sound OK?


My dad was an electrician - and the requirement (at least locally in
Waterloo area) was the disconnect had to be reachable without entering
the outbuilding. My recommendation was to bring the conduit up just
inside the door, to switch height- using the disconnect box (switch
box) as the conduit terminus and as the junction box to the lights and
outdoor receptacle (outlet).

On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 17:30:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sep 19, 3:53Â*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 12:05:17 -0700 (PDT), Harry K









wrote:

Why not use romex for the underground run. Â*It does come in direct
burial. Â*Might be cheaper to buy a 12-2 WG romex than individual
wires.

Not an electrician but my run would be Disconnect - double box Â*with
duplex outlet and a switch for the lights. Â*Evem of they are motion
dectectors it is best to wire them through a switch - some require a
switch to reset them if they fault to constant on. Â* Any additional
outlets come off the outlet in that first box. Â*Of course the right
way (as I understand it) would be the feed into the shed into a
subpanel and go from there. Â*But that would be if the circuit started
in a panel.

Harry K

He can use UF, cable similar to Romex (actually a brand name for type
NM-b a dry location only cable).
I am not sure it would really be cheaper and he will be locked into
the wire size he runs if his needs change.
Personally I would run 3/4" conduit since the difference in price from
1/2" is minimal, your pull will be a lot easier and that will leave
your options open.

The best way to go is to use an LB conduit body where it transitions
into the building, That splits up your pull a little and makes it
easier going. You will usually just have 2 bends then.
I like to suck some pulling lube through the pipe with my shop vac
before I start (squirt it in one end and suck it out the other) while
you are sucking the pull string through. Then squirt some in the other
way as you are pulling the wire back.That will make your pull go very
easily.

No need to discuss conduit vs. UF since I already ran the conduit and
pulled the wires. I now know I should have used 3/4" instead of 1/2"
so I'll count this as a lesson learned. :-(

Next time...

Yes, with 1/2", pulling in "romex" would not be a simple job.

On Sep 19, 8:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 *storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

You have it backwards, you want romex UF for the feed THEN transition
to plain wire (or stay romex) in the shed, not plain wire for the feed
going to romex. I'd use UF (undergound feeder) cable instead of plain
wires in conduit. Eventually the conduit will leak and you'll have
wires not designed for burial getting wet either entirely or
condensation in the conduit. UF is made for underground, cant get wet
at all. A ground rod bonded to your ground (green) feeder wire at the
shed entry point may not be a bad idea either, just dont rebond the
neutral to ground again in the shed breaker box (if you use a breaker
box). This way if your ground wire fails somewhere in the feed you
will still have the shed locally grounded. I really hate the idea of
burying plain wire in conduit ever myself, when something like UF is
so foolproof for leaks.

On Sep 19, 1:37*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 12:05:17 -0700 (PDT), Harry K





wrote:
On Sep 19, 8:06*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Sep 19, 9:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 *storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

I'd ues a regular disconnect myself. *They're only about $10 at
lowes. *Some home and code inspectors will give you grief over the
switch. *Transition at the disconnect. *Put the disconnect a foot or
two up from the bottom. *SInce it's not serving as a breaker panel the
location only matters in that it should be visible from the other
electrical stuff. *Since you're inside a small shed that's pretty much
always the case.

If you use regular romex it needs to be in a location protected from
accidental impact. *If this is a conventional framed unfinished shed
most inspectors will let you nail it to the side of the studs. *A few
might get anal about it. *You could go ahead and use pvc throughout.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why not use romex for the underground run. *It does come in direct
burial. *Might be cheaper to buy a 12-2 WG romex than individual
wires.

Not an electrician but my run would be Disconnect - double box *with
duplex outlet and a switch for the lights. *Evem of they are motion
dectectors it is best to wire them through a switch - some require a
switch to reset them if they fault to constant on. * Any additional
outlets come off the outlet in that first box. *Of course the right
way (as I understand it) would be the feed into the shed into a
subpanel and go from there. *But that would be if the circuit started
in a panel.

Harry K

The disconnect will function as the switch to reset the motion
detector, so why add another switch?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Good point

Harry K

On Sep 19, 8:24*pm, RickH wrote:
On Sep 19, 8:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 *storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

You have it backwards, you want romex UF for the feed THEN transition
to plain wire (or stay romex) in the shed, not plain wire for the feed
going to romex. *I'd use UF (undergound feeder) cable instead of plain
wires in conduit. *Eventually the conduit will leak and you'll have
wires not designed for burial getting wet either entirely or
condensation in the conduit. *

snip

Thank you! That solved a puzzle for me. Over 30 years ago I laid my
'twin lead' antenna wire in conduit frm pole to house. Could not
figure out how moisture was getting into the conduit (dripping out of
the basement end). I had constructed the perfect conditions for
condensation. Conduit sloped up from basement to pole terminating
about 10ft higher than the basement end. I probably could have
measured a draft emanating from the pole end

Harry K

On Sep 19, 8:24*pm, RickH wrote:
On Sep 19, 8:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 *storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

You have it backwards, you want romex UF for the feed THEN transition
to plain wire (or stay romex) in the shed, not plain wire for the feed
going to romex. *I'd use UF (undergound feeder) cable instead of plain
wires in conduit. *Eventually the conduit will leak and you'll have
wires not designed for burial getting wet either entirely or
condensation in the conduit. snip

Thank you! That solved a puzzle for me. Over 30 years ago I laid my
'twin lead' (may have been coax, long time ago and long ago done away
with) antenna wire in conduit frm pole to house. Could not figure out
how moisture was getting into the conduit (dripping out of the
basement end). I had constructed the perfect conditions for
condensation. Conduit sloped up from basement to pole terminating
about 10ft higher than the basement end. I probably could have
measured a draft emanating from the pole end

Harry K

On Sep 19, 11:24*pm, RickH wrote:
On Sep 19, 8:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 *storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

You have it backwards, you want romex UF for the feed THEN transition
to plain wire (or stay romex) in the shed, not plain wire for the feed
going to romex. *I'd use UF (undergound feeder) cable instead of plain
wires in conduit. *Eventually the conduit will leak and you'll have
wires not designed for burial getting wet either entirely or
condensation in the conduit.

Individual conductors are used correctly in underground conduit
all the time. The wire just has to be THWN rated, the W
indicating that it's suitable for wet locations. In fact, many places
only stock one wire now that is both THHN and THWN rated.





*UF is made for underground, cant get wet
at all. *A ground rod bonded to your ground (green) feeder wire at the
shed entry point may not be a bad idea either, just dont rebond the
neutral to ground again in the shed breaker box (if you use a breaker
box). *This way if your ground wire fails somewhere in the feed you
will still have the shed locally grounded. *I really hate the idea of
burying plain wire in conduit ever myself, when something like UF is
so foolproof for leaks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -