On Sep 19, 11:06*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Sep 19, 9:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 *storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!

I'd ues a regular disconnect myself. *They're only about $10 at
lowes. *Some home and code inspectors will give you grief over the
switch. *Transition at the disconnect. *Put the disconnect a foot or
two up from the bottom. *SInce it's not serving as a breaker panel the
location only matters in that it should be visible from the other
electrical stuff. *Since you're inside a small shed that's pretty much
always the case.

If you use regular romex it needs to be in a location protected from
accidental impact. *If this is a conventional framed unfinished shed
most inspectors will let you nail it to the side of the studs. *A few
might get anal about it. *You could go ahead and use pvc throughout.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks!

By "the side of the studs" I assume you mean the side perpendicular to
the walls, not the face that points towards the interior of the shed.

If that's the case, and I have to span several stud bays, what's the
best way to accomplish that? I'd prefer that all runs go up to the
underside of the top plate and then across as opposed to spanning open
areas of the bays where I store "narrow" materials like lengths of
trim, etc. However, if the runs go up to the top plate, I can't drill
through the stud near the top because of the screws holding the plate
to the stud.

Do I just come down a few inches, go through the stud and then back up
to the underside of the plate and continue on?