On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 17:26:24 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sep 19, 5:31Â*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 16:31:35 -0400, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 06:47:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I am in the process of wiring an 8 x 10 Â*storage shed for a light
fixture and an external AC receptacle. The receptacle will be for the
occasional power tool, radio, etc. No table saws or anything like
that, just small tools and other electrical devices that might be used
in the back yard.

Here's my plan and questions:

I currently have a 20A circuit that provides power to a GFCI outlet
and 2 light fixtures on my deck, all wired with 12G wire.

The shed is about 15' from the deck.

I plan to run individual 12G wires (Black, White, Green) from the load
side of the GFCI to the shed thtough Schedule 40 PVC buried 24"
underground.

From there I'll come up through the floor of the shed to a STDP switch
which will act as my disconnect. Following the disconnect, I'll go
through the wall to a receptacle mounted in a weather proof box under
the soffit. I'll mount it high for extra protection from the weather
and to keep it out of the snow.

I'll also have a motion sensing switch inside the shed for one, maybe
two, light fixtures that will be inside the shed.

Questions:

1 - Does it matter where I put the disconnect switch? Does it have to
be within a certain distance from the door or floor? (Obviously I'll
put it where it won't get buried behind what's stored in the shed.)

2 - Once the wires come up into the shed through the PVC, can I
transition to Romex? If so, at what point?

Thanks!
The disconnect MUST be reachable from the open door, and you can
transition to Romex from any junction box, which must be left
accessible, providing the romex is protected according to code.
Myself? I'd bring the conduit right up to the disconnect box.

That may be a Canadian thing about the door Â*but in the US it is
supposed to be right where the wire enters the building.
Generally you will come up out of the ground to a reasonable inside
switch height on the outside, LB through the wall and set a box and
disconnect on the inside. You can then fan out your circuits from
there. Again the inspector would usually have some leniency if you
came up the inside wall in conduit directly to the switch.
After all, these are not service conductors. and he is on the load
side of a GFCI.
Personally I think a single circuit to a residential shed should not
need the disconnect at all but I didn't write the code, I just have to
enforce it.

"225.32 Location.
The disconnecting means shall be installed either inside or outside of
the building or structure served or where the conductors pass through
the building or structure. The disconnecting means shall be at a
readily accessible location nearest the point of entrance of the
conductors. For the purposes of this section, the requirements in
230.6 shall be utilized."

I came up inside the shed and the conduit currently runs about halfway
up the wall inside a stud bay. That's where I stopped until I checked
out how to proceed.

How about if I continue the conduit up that stud bay and put the
disconnect near the top plate so that it won't be blocked by items
stored on the floor? The top plate is 6' from the floor and I could
reach the disconnect after taking one step into the shed. A taller
person could probably reach it from the door.

From there I can fan out to my receptacle and light switch.

Sound OK?


My dad was an electrician - and the requirement (at least locally in
Waterloo area) was the disconnect had to be reachable without entering
the outbuilding. My recommendation was to bring the conduit up just
inside the door, to switch height- using the disconnect box (switch
box) as the conduit terminus and as the junction box to the lights and
outdoor receptacle (outlet).