We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una

On Jul 9, 9:52*am, (Una) wrote:
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. *Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. *This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather. *
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. *Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? *Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

* * * * Una

The devil is in the details.............

How about some photos of the proposed installation site?
IS there a concrete slab? (you mention an anchor kit for a slab)

Water intrusion issues are usually related to slab; poorly located?
poor perimeter drainage.

Without seeing the details, the best I could do is guess.

Use the floor system.
Fill will VERY coarse sand or pea gravel.
Coarser materials will not wick & will tend to stay drier.

Cover gravel / sand with HEAVY plastic (to act as a vapor barrier for
the shed & floor)
Install plywood.

All these details are to make up for what is probably a slab that is
inadequate to serve as a shed floor.

Bulk density of gravel is about 100 lbs/ cubic ft.
A shed 10' x 10 with 3" layer of gravel would require about a yd of
gravel (.9 yd) ~2500lbs.


cheers
Bob

Una wrote:
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una

Hi,
I set up two sheds one at my back yard and one out at my cabin.
I used the kit and used 5/8" plywood after reinforcing(bracing) the kit
(too wimpy) Been OK for ~10 years. Sounds like you are in wet climate. I
am far up North of 49th.

"Una" wrote in message ...
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una


Return the anchor kit and floor. Pour a concrete floor 2 inches thick on
top of your existing slab for your new shed. That will keep your shed floor
dry. Just bolt the shed to the concrete slab using concrete anchors.

On Jul 9, 8:28*pm, "Pat" wrote:
"Una" wrote in ....
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. *Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. *This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. *Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? *Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una

Return the anchor kit and floor. *Pour a concrete floor 2 inches thick on
top of your existing slab for your new shed. *That will keep your shed floor
dry. *Just bolt the shed to the concrete slab using concrete anchors.

OP-

Pat's suggestion is really the way to go.
Messing around with the floor kit, gravel fill and plywood is an
easier & cheaper way to go
but Pat's "topping slab" will give much better results.

cheers
Bob

"DD_BobK" wrote in message
...
On Jul 9, 8:28 pm, "Pat" wrote:
"Una" wrote in
...
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una

Return the anchor kit and floor. Pour a concrete floor 2 inches thick on
top of your existing slab for your new shed. That will keep your shed
floor
dry. Just bolt the shed to the concrete slab using concrete anchors.

OP-

Pat's suggestion is really the way to go.
Messing around with the floor kit, gravel fill and plywood is an
easier & cheaper way to go
but Pat's "topping slab" will give much better results.

cheers
Bob

Free advice on Usenet is worth ten times what one pays for it.

Check your local zoning laws. A shed is a shed is a shed. "Outbuildings"
are something that zoning and code enforcement usually ignore, as they are
mostly lean-to's or their equivalent, used to shelter equipment or animals,
and can be torn down with one good pull from a four wheel drive pickup with
a steel cable..

BUT

Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent structure, and
are then subject to all manner of regulation, INCLUDING raised taxes. In
many places, a wood floor is not considered permanent, as it could be moved
easily. So, people use wood floors and the kits that come with the
buildings.

Structures you erect require engineering approval. If you buy a metal
building kit, this approval comes with the kit. If you build, you will need
a licensed engineer to sign off on draftsman quality plans for such things
as bearing walls, truss loads, etc, and that alone can be hundreds of
dollars.

Definitely, a slab is the way to go. I have done a couple where I poured a
slab with a pony wall (a short wall to mount the plate on), and that gave
more height to the building, as most are made for people with a maximum
height of 5'1". The pony wall also keeps water out during rain, and if
placed on a slight rise, water infiltration is negligible. It will require
modification of the door(s), though.

You may also be required to comply with setbacks from property lines, from
other buildings, and if you want electricity, may have to install a to code
feed and sub panel with breakers and GFCI circuits. Then there's the CALL
BEFORE YOU DIG people, who are free, but who you need to call so you don't
dig into some buried hazard. Translation $$$. You may have to go before a
zoning board so your neighbors have a chance to comment on this new thing
that they will have to look at when they snoop over your fence. It may
require a variance .......... more $$$. It may require a permit
...............$$$.

Don't just build something and spend the time and money without
investigating. And don't go down there and say, "This is what I am going to
do", but rather, "I'm thinking about .............".

Always tapdance within the lines. It's cheaper and easier. And in the end,
a few more bucks, but you will have it right, and no one can come along and
make you tear it down or move it.

Whether or not you have a poured foundation is the key. And since these
things are made of tin a little thicker than tin cans, it's good to have
them up a little so they don't just rot off at the floor line.

HTH

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide

This shed is within all zoning requirements. It replaces an old shed
with the same footprint, that was not anchored (prior owner put it up)
and blew off in a 60 mph wind after the door was left open. Anchoring
is okay, even recommended.

It is in high desert, where rainfall is limited but arrives in bursts.

The rainwater intrusion is largely because the slab is 5 feet longer
than the shed, forming a porch that is level, not sloped for drainage
away from the shed. The other problem is that turf has grown up and
forming a low dam around the slab. I will lower the turf or replace
it with a gravel drain.

It is a very good slab, and we have plans for it in future, so don't
want to mess it up by pouring another slab on top of it. Also, it is
in a location that is no longer accessible by a cement truck.

This thread has helped us to decide to use the anchor system but omit
the floor system.

Una

On Jul 11, 9:50*am, "Steve B" wrote:
"DD_BobK" wrote in message

...
On Jul 9, 8:28 pm, "Pat" wrote:









"Una" wrote in
...
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una

Return the anchor kit and floor. Pour a concrete floor 2 inches thick on
top of your existing slab for your new shed. That will keep your shed
floor
dry. Just bolt the shed to the concrete slab using concrete anchors.

OP-

Pat's suggestion is really the way to go.
Messing around with the floor kit, gravel fill and plywood is an
easier & cheaper way to go
*but Pat's "topping slab" will give much better results.

cheers
Bob

Free advice on Usenet is worth ten times what one pays for it.

Check your local zoning laws. *A shed is a shed is a shed. *"Outbuildings"
are something that zoning and code enforcement usually ignore, as they are
mostly lean-to's or their equivalent, used to shelter equipment or animals,
and can be torn down with one good pull from a four wheel drive pickup with
a steel cable..

BUT

Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent structure, and
are then subject to all manner of regulation, INCLUDING raised taxes. *In
many places, a wood floor is not considered permanent, as it could be moved
easily. *So, people use wood floors and the kits that come with the
buildings.

Structures you erect require engineering approval. *If you buy a metal
building kit, this approval comes with the kit. *If you build, you will need
a licensed engineer to sign off on draftsman quality plans for such things
as bearing walls, truss loads, etc, and that alone can be hundreds of
dollars.

Definitely, a slab is the way to go. *I have done a couple where I poured a
slab with a pony wall (a short wall to mount the plate on), and that gave
more height to the building, as most are made for people with a maximum
height of 5'1". *The pony wall also keeps water out during rain, and if
placed on a slight rise, water infiltration is negligible. *It will require
modification of the door(s), though.

You may also be required to comply with setbacks from property lines, from
other buildings, and if you want electricity, may have to install a to code
feed and sub panel with breakers and GFCI circuits. *Then there's the CALL
BEFORE YOU DIG people, who are free, but who you need to call so you don't
dig into some buried hazard. *Translation $$$. *You may have to go before a
zoning board so your neighbors have a chance to comment on this new thing
that they will have to look at when they snoop over your fence. *It may
require a variance .......... more $$$. *It may require a permit
..............$$$.

Don't just build something and spend the time and money without
investigating. *And don't go down there and say, "This is what I am going to
do", but rather, "I'm thinking about .............".

Always tapdance within the lines. *It's cheaper and easier. *And in the end,
a few more bucks, but you will have it right, and no one can come along and
make you tear it down or move it.

Whether or not you have a poured foundation is the key. *And since these
things are made of tin a little thicker than tin cans, it's good to have
them up a little so they don't just rot off at the floor line.

HTH

Steve

Heart surgery pending?www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide




Steve-

You way too amped up on this......


..Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent
structure

not where I live....


Permits are not required for:

• Retaining or garden walls less than four feet high measured from
bottom of footing, which doesn’t
have a surcharge or affect drainage onto or off of property
• One story detached accessory building such as a storage shed or play
house with a floor area not
exceeding 120 square feet

BUT go figure

Permits are required for:
• Installing or replacing water heaters
• Installing or replacing faucets

"DD_BobK" wrote in message
...
On Jul 11, 9:50 am, "Steve B" wrote:
"DD_BobK" wrote in message

...
On Jul 9, 8:28 pm, "Pat" wrote:









"Una" wrote in
...
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una

Return the anchor kit and floor. Pour a concrete floor 2 inches thick on
top of your existing slab for your new shed. That will keep your shed
floor
dry. Just bolt the shed to the concrete slab using concrete anchors.

OP-

Pat's suggestion is really the way to go.
Messing around with the floor kit, gravel fill and plywood is an
easier & cheaper way to go
but Pat's "topping slab" will give much better results.

cheers
Bob

Free advice on Usenet is worth ten times what one pays for it.

Check your local zoning laws. A shed is a shed is a shed. "Outbuildings"
are something that zoning and code enforcement usually ignore, as they are
mostly lean-to's or their equivalent, used to shelter equipment or
animals,
and can be torn down with one good pull from a four wheel drive pickup
with
a steel cable..

BUT

Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent structure,
and
are then subject to all manner of regulation, INCLUDING raised taxes. In
many places, a wood floor is not considered permanent, as it could be
moved
easily. So, people use wood floors and the kits that come with the
buildings.

Structures you erect require engineering approval. If you buy a metal
building kit, this approval comes with the kit. If you build, you will
need
a licensed engineer to sign off on draftsman quality plans for such things
as bearing walls, truss loads, etc, and that alone can be hundreds of
dollars.

Definitely, a slab is the way to go. I have done a couple where I poured a
slab with a pony wall (a short wall to mount the plate on), and that gave
more height to the building, as most are made for people with a maximum
height of 5'1". The pony wall also keeps water out during rain, and if
placed on a slight rise, water infiltration is negligible. It will require
modification of the door(s), though.

You may also be required to comply with setbacks from property lines, from
other buildings, and if you want electricity, may have to install a to
code
feed and sub panel with breakers and GFCI circuits. Then there's the CALL
BEFORE YOU DIG people, who are free, but who you need to call so you don't
dig into some buried hazard. Translation $$$. You may have to go before a
zoning board so your neighbors have a chance to comment on this new thing
that they will have to look at when they snoop over your fence. It may
require a variance .......... more $$$. It may require a permit
..............$$$.

Don't just build something and spend the time and money without
investigating. And don't go down there and say, "This is what I am going
to
do", but rather, "I'm thinking about .............".

Always tapdance within the lines. It's cheaper and easier. And in the end,
a few more bucks, but you will have it right, and no one can come along
and
make you tear it down or move it.

Whether or not you have a poured foundation is the key. And since these
things are made of tin a little thicker than tin cans, it's good to have
them up a little so they don't just rot off at the floor line.

HTH

Steve

Heart surgery pending?www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide




Steve-

You way too amped up on this......


..Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent
structure

not where I live....


Permits are not required for:

• Retaining or garden walls less than four feet high measured from
bottom of footing, which doesn’t
have a surcharge or affect drainage onto or off of property
• One story detached accessory building such as a storage shed or play
house with a floor area not
exceeding 120 square feet

BUT go figure

Permits are required for:
• Installing or replacing water heaters
• Installing or replacing faucets

reply.

Imbecile.

Someone asks on Usenet: What's the weather going to be like tomorrow?

Answer, it depends on where you live. Check the local conditions.

One size does not fit all, and Usenet answers are worth the paper they are
written on. They are only suggestions that may or may not apply where YOU
(or the OP) live.

Sounds to me like they figured out a solution in spite of everyone.

Steve

On 7/12/2011 1:22 AM, Steve B wrote:
(snip)
not where I live....


Permits are not required for:

• Retaining or garden walls less than four feet high measured from
bottom of footing, which doesn’t
have a surcharge or affect drainage onto or off of property
• One story detached accessory building such as a storage shed or play
house with a floor area not
exceeding 120 square feet

BUT go figure

Permits are required for:
• Installing or replacing water heaters
• Installing or replacing faucets


I hear ya on the irrationality of the permits for utility buildings.
Such permits are primarily a revenue generator, with 'the public good'
being secondary. My now-squashed shed is on a fenced-in slab larger than
the shed, which was actually an abandoned dog pen. (what kind of cruel
SOB pens dogs on concrete?). Permits and inspections aren't much of a
worry out here, but the replacement I have on order is close to an exact
duplicate of what got squished by the tree, and on the slight chance
anyone does bitch, I'll mention that the slab and fence around it were
already there, so blame previous owner who installed the shed ten years
ago and nobody bitched, and besides, I'm only repairing an existing
structure. I'm pretty sure new shed will drop into the existing anchor
rails lagged off to the slab, so it isn't really 'new' work. It was just
cheaper to buy an entire kit, than order the replacement parts of 70% of
the the old shed. Shed has no power to it, and is 75 feet from the
house, so they can't use that as an excuse.

Bu yes, even if a permit were required here (and I'm not gonna ask a
question I may not like the answer to), you definitely want a concrete
floor in a shed. And I agree- anything made of wood should be on a stem
wall or quasi-foundation, to keep the sills dry. If I thought it would
pay for itself at resale, I'd have a concrete guy do a proper foundation
with footings, like for a small garage, and drop a canned-design wood
shed onto that.

Now as to water heater requiring a permit, that almost makes sense. A
badly installed heater can burn down house, and maybe the neighbor's
place as well.

--
aem sends...

On Jul 11, 10:22*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
"DD_BobK" wrote in message

...
On Jul 11, 9:50 am, "Steve B" wrote:









"DD_BobK" wrote in message

....
On Jul 9, 8:28 pm, "Pat" wrote:

"Una" wrote in
...
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una

Return the anchor kit and floor. Pour a concrete floor 2 inches thick on
top of your existing slab for your new shed. That will keep your shed
floor
dry. Just bolt the shed to the concrete slab using concrete anchors.

OP-

Pat's suggestion is really the way to go.
Messing around with the floor kit, gravel fill and plywood is an
easier & cheaper way to go
but Pat's "topping slab" will give much better results.

cheers
Bob

Free advice on Usenet is worth ten times what one pays for it.

Check your local zoning laws. A shed is a shed is a shed. "Outbuildings"
are something that zoning and code enforcement usually ignore, as they are
mostly lean-to's or their equivalent, used to shelter equipment or
animals,
and can be torn down with one good pull from a four wheel drive pickup
with
a steel cable..

BUT

Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent structure,
and
are then subject to all manner of regulation, INCLUDING raised taxes. In
many places, a wood floor is not considered permanent, as it could be
moved
easily. So, people use wood floors and the kits that come with the
buildings.

Structures you erect require engineering approval. If you buy a metal
building kit, this approval comes with the kit. If you build, you will
need
a licensed engineer to sign off on draftsman quality plans for such things
as bearing walls, truss loads, etc, and that alone can be hundreds of
dollars.

Definitely, a slab is the way to go. I have done a couple where I poured a
slab with a pony wall (a short wall to mount the plate on), and that gave
more height to the building, as most are made for people with a maximum
height of 5'1". The pony wall also keeps water out during rain, and if
placed on a slight rise, water infiltration is negligible. It will require
modification of the door(s), though.

You may also be required to comply with setbacks from property lines, from
other buildings, and if you want electricity, may have to install a to
code
feed and sub panel with breakers and GFCI circuits. Then there's the CALL
BEFORE YOU DIG people, who are free, but who you need to call so you don't
dig into some buried hazard. Translation $$$. You may have to go before a
zoning board so your neighbors have a chance to comment on this new thing
that they will have to look at when they snoop over your fence. It may
require a variance .......... more $$$. It may require a permit
..............$$$.

Don't just build something and spend the time and money without
investigating. And don't go down there and say, "This is what I am going
to
do", but rather, "I'm thinking about .............".

Always tapdance within the lines. It's cheaper and easier. And in the end,
a few more bucks, but you will have it right, and no one can come along
and
make you tear it down or move it.

Whether or not you have a poured foundation is the key. And since these
things are made of tin a little thicker than tin cans, it's good to have
them up a little so they don't just rot off at the floor line.

HTH

Steve

Heart surgery pending?www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide

Steve-

You way too amped up on this......

.Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent
structure

not where I live.... *

Permits are not required for:

• Retaining or garden walls less than four feet high measured from
bottom of footing, which doesn’t
have a surcharge or affect drainage onto or off of property
• One story detached accessory building such as a storage shed or play
house with a floor area not
exceeding 120 square feet

BUT go figure

Permits are required for:
• Installing or replacing water heaters
• Installing or replacing faucets

reply.

Imbecile.

Someone asks on Usenet: *What's the weather going to be like tomorrow?

Answer, it depends on where you live. *Check the local conditions.

One size does not fit all, and Usenet answers are worth the paper they are
written on. *They are only suggestions that may or may not apply where YOU
(or the OP) live.

Sounds to me like they figured out a solution in spite of everyone.

Steve

I now have an idea about why you needed heart surgery......you get way
to worked up about stuff.

If you reread your most recent post .....it also applies to your
earlier "Chicken Little" response.

I must have missed it where you inquired as to her locale and how you
knew.....

Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent structure, and
are then subject to all manner of regulation, INCLUDING raised
taxes.

YMMV

cheers
Bob

"DD_BobK" wrote

I now have an idea about why you needed heart surgery......you get way
to worked up about stuff.

If you reread your most recent post .....it also applies to your
earlier "Chicken Little" response.

I must have missed it where you inquired as to her locale and how you
knew.....

Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent structure,
and
are then subject to all manner of regulation, INCLUDING raised
taxes.

YMMV

cheers
Bob

You overrate your powers of ESP. My heart problems were congenital. As I
said in my post to the OP, check out things where YOU live, because you may
save yourself time and headache by not having to go back and do it over or
pay fines. This goes for everyone who writes in and asks questions about
what to do, not how to do it. We can tell someone how to fix a faucet, and
that's pretty much standard everywhere. But when it comes to construction
of permanent structures, that varies. It takes some legwork, and the excuse
of "I read it on the Internet" won't placate an inspector.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide

On Jul 12, 11:34*am, "Steve B" wrote:
"DD_BobK" wrote

I now have an idea about why you needed heart surgery......you get way
to worked up about stuff.

If you reread your most recent post .....it also applies to your
earlier "Chicken Little" response.

I must have missed it where you inquired as to her locale and how you
knew.....

Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent structure,
and

are then subject to all manner of regulation, INCLUDING raised
taxes.

YMMV

cheers
Bob

You overrate your powers of ESP. *My heart problems were congenital. *As I
said in my post to the OP, check out things where YOU live, because you may
save yourself time and headache by not having to go back and do it over or
pay fines. *This goes for everyone who writes in and asks questions about
what to do, not how to do it. *We can tell someone how to fix a faucet, and
that's pretty much standard everywhere. *But when it comes to construction
of permanent structures, that varies. *It takes some legwork, and the excuse
of "I read it on the Internet" won't placate an inspector.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide

Maybe your attitude & temperament are congenital defects along with
the heart thing?
As may be your inconsistent logic.
TFBFY

In article
,
DD_BobK wrote:

TFBFY

Even acronymfinder.com never heard that one.

"DD_BobK" wrote in message
...
On Jul 12, 11:34 am, "Steve B" wrote:
"DD_BobK" wrote

I now have an idea about why you needed heart surgery......you get way
to worked up about stuff.

If you reread your most recent post .....it also applies to your
earlier "Chicken Little" response.

I must have missed it where you inquired as to her locale and how you
knew.....

Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent structure,
and

are then subject to all manner of regulation, INCLUDING raised
taxes.

YMMV

cheers
Bob

You overrate your powers of ESP. My heart problems were congenital. As I
said in my post to the OP, check out things where YOU live, because you
may
save yourself time and headache by not having to go back and do it over or
pay fines. This goes for everyone who writes in and asks questions about
what to do, not how to do it. We can tell someone how to fix a faucet, and
that's pretty much standard everywhere. But when it comes to construction
of permanent structures, that varies. It takes some legwork, and the
excuse
of "I read it on the Internet" won't placate an inspector.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide

Maybe your attitude & temperament are congenital defects along with
the heart thing?
As may be your inconsistent logic.
TFBFY

reply:

You're guessing again. Stop it, as you suck at it.

What's your problem?

And where is it written that everyone here has to be all warm and fuzzy and
Pollyannish?

And what makes you think that you're the perfect one to pass judgement on
anyone?

Here's something that may help:

Dear Whatever:

I notice you have taken to task a writer about whether or not a post is on
topic, is spelled correctly, or is correct in some other minute detail.

I would like to inform you that the post of Netnanny is already filled. It
is held by Newton Fillmore, of Pacoima, California, although Mr. Fillmore is
currently in a coma in a facility in Riverside, and has been for three
years, eight months now. We just could not bring ourselves to demote him
without a proper hearing and him being present.

Please be advised that there are currently over 500 applicants and wannabes
for the position. That does not include people like yourself who have
broken with protocol and currently act like they are in the cherished
position.

If and when and if ever the post becomes available, you will be required to
write an essay of no longer than 1500 words, single spaced, using the words
there, they're, their, your, you're, and any others you can come up with in
as many incorrect grammatical situations as possible.

You must also describe the difference between "lose" and "loose" in 25 words
or less.

You must also include the reason that you think entitles you the lifelong
right to hold this post, and review the rest of humanity on its daily
heretofore
unobserved unsupervised act of Usenet Posting.

Steve
3rd Poohbah and Grand Mucky Muck
of the Society of Netnannies.

Addended by 4/19/2011

You forgot three of my favorites, its and it's, lightning and
lightening, and to, too and two.

Steve, who is certainly not perfect, and never wants to be that sick to even
think so.

You may go now. You are boring me, and your home repair knowledge is about
as good as your extrasensory perception.

On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 00:05:54 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article
,
DD_BobK wrote:

TFBFY

Even acronymfinder.com never heard that one.

Just a guess:

"To ****ing Bad **** You"

On 7/13/2011 3:05 AM, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
wrote:

TFBFY

Even acronymfinder.com never heard that one.

Too eFfing Bad For You?

Do I get a prize?

--
aem sends...