On Jul 11, 9:50*am, "Steve B" wrote:
"DD_BobK" wrote in message

...
On Jul 9, 8:28 pm, "Pat" wrote:









"Una" wrote in
...
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una

Return the anchor kit and floor. Pour a concrete floor 2 inches thick on
top of your existing slab for your new shed. That will keep your shed
floor
dry. Just bolt the shed to the concrete slab using concrete anchors.

OP-

Pat's suggestion is really the way to go.
Messing around with the floor kit, gravel fill and plywood is an
easier & cheaper way to go
*but Pat's "topping slab" will give much better results.

cheers
Bob

Free advice on Usenet is worth ten times what one pays for it.

Check your local zoning laws. *A shed is a shed is a shed. *"Outbuildings"
are something that zoning and code enforcement usually ignore, as they are
mostly lean-to's or their equivalent, used to shelter equipment or animals,
and can be torn down with one good pull from a four wheel drive pickup with
a steel cable..

BUT

Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent structure, and
are then subject to all manner of regulation, INCLUDING raised taxes. *In
many places, a wood floor is not considered permanent, as it could be moved
easily. *So, people use wood floors and the kits that come with the
buildings.

Structures you erect require engineering approval. *If you buy a metal
building kit, this approval comes with the kit. *If you build, you will need
a licensed engineer to sign off on draftsman quality plans for such things
as bearing walls, truss loads, etc, and that alone can be hundreds of
dollars.

Definitely, a slab is the way to go. *I have done a couple where I poured a
slab with a pony wall (a short wall to mount the plate on), and that gave
more height to the building, as most are made for people with a maximum
height of 5'1". *The pony wall also keeps water out during rain, and if
placed on a slight rise, water infiltration is negligible. *It will require
modification of the door(s), though.

You may also be required to comply with setbacks from property lines, from
other buildings, and if you want electricity, may have to install a to code
feed and sub panel with breakers and GFCI circuits. *Then there's the CALL
BEFORE YOU DIG people, who are free, but who you need to call so you don't
dig into some buried hazard. *Translation $$$. *You may have to go before a
zoning board so your neighbors have a chance to comment on this new thing
that they will have to look at when they snoop over your fence. *It may
require a variance .......... more $$$. *It may require a permit
..............$$$.

Don't just build something and spend the time and money without
investigating. *And don't go down there and say, "This is what I am going to
do", but rather, "I'm thinking about .............".

Always tapdance within the lines. *It's cheaper and easier. *And in the end,
a few more bucks, but you will have it right, and no one can come along and
make you tear it down or move it.

Whether or not you have a poured foundation is the key. *And since these
things are made of tin a little thicker than tin cans, it's good to have
them up a little so they don't just rot off at the floor line.

HTH

Steve

Heart surgery pending?www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
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Steve-

You way too amped up on this......


..Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent
structure

not where I live....


Permits are not required for:

• Retaining or garden walls less than four feet high measured from
bottom of footing, which doesn’t
have a surcharge or affect drainage onto or off of property
• One story detached accessory building such as a storage shed or play
house with a floor area not
exceeding 120 square feet

BUT go figure

Permits are required for:
• Installing or replacing water heaters
• Installing or replacing faucets