We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una

On Jul 9, 9:52*am, (Una) wrote:
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. *Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. *This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather. *
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. *Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? *Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

* * * * Una

The devil is in the details.............

How about some photos of the proposed installation site?
IS there a concrete slab? (you mention an anchor kit for a slab)

Water intrusion issues are usually related to slab; poorly located?
poor perimeter drainage.

Without seeing the details, the best I could do is guess.

Use the floor system.
Fill will VERY coarse sand or pea gravel.
Coarser materials will not wick & will tend to stay drier.

Cover gravel / sand with HEAVY plastic (to act as a vapor barrier for
the shed & floor)
Install plywood.

All these details are to make up for what is probably a slab that is
inadequate to serve as a shed floor.

Bulk density of gravel is about 100 lbs/ cubic ft.
A shed 10' x 10 with 3" layer of gravel would require about a yd of
gravel (.9 yd) ~2500lbs.


cheers
Bob

Una wrote:
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una

Hi,
I set up two sheds one at my back yard and one out at my cabin.
I used the kit and used 5/8" plywood after reinforcing(bracing) the kit
(too wimpy) Been OK for ~10 years. Sounds like you are in wet climate. I
am far up North of 49th.

"Una" wrote in message ...
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una


Return the anchor kit and floor. Pour a concrete floor 2 inches thick on
top of your existing slab for your new shed. That will keep your shed floor
dry. Just bolt the shed to the concrete slab using concrete anchors.

On Jul 9, 8:28*pm, "Pat" wrote:
"Una" wrote in ....
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. *Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. *This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. *Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? *Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una

Return the anchor kit and floor. *Pour a concrete floor 2 inches thick on
top of your existing slab for your new shed. *That will keep your shed floor
dry. *Just bolt the shed to the concrete slab using concrete anchors.

OP-

Pat's suggestion is really the way to go.
Messing around with the floor kit, gravel fill and plywood is an
easier & cheaper way to go
but Pat's "topping slab" will give much better results.

cheers
Bob

"DD_BobK" wrote in message
...
On Jul 9, 8:28 pm, "Pat" wrote:
"Una" wrote in
...
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una

Return the anchor kit and floor. Pour a concrete floor 2 inches thick on
top of your existing slab for your new shed. That will keep your shed
floor
dry. Just bolt the shed to the concrete slab using concrete anchors.

OP-

Pat's suggestion is really the way to go.
Messing around with the floor kit, gravel fill and plywood is an
easier & cheaper way to go
but Pat's "topping slab" will give much better results.

cheers
Bob

Free advice on Usenet is worth ten times what one pays for it.

Check your local zoning laws. A shed is a shed is a shed. "Outbuildings"
are something that zoning and code enforcement usually ignore, as they are
mostly lean-to's or their equivalent, used to shelter equipment or animals,
and can be torn down with one good pull from a four wheel drive pickup with
a steel cable..

BUT

Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent structure, and
are then subject to all manner of regulation, INCLUDING raised taxes. In
many places, a wood floor is not considered permanent, as it could be moved
easily. So, people use wood floors and the kits that come with the
buildings.

Structures you erect require engineering approval. If you buy a metal
building kit, this approval comes with the kit. If you build, you will need
a licensed engineer to sign off on draftsman quality plans for such things
as bearing walls, truss loads, etc, and that alone can be hundreds of
dollars.

Definitely, a slab is the way to go. I have done a couple where I poured a
slab with a pony wall (a short wall to mount the plate on), and that gave
more height to the building, as most are made for people with a maximum
height of 5'1". The pony wall also keeps water out during rain, and if
placed on a slight rise, water infiltration is negligible. It will require
modification of the door(s), though.

You may also be required to comply with setbacks from property lines, from
other buildings, and if you want electricity, may have to install a to code
feed and sub panel with breakers and GFCI circuits. Then there's the CALL
BEFORE YOU DIG people, who are free, but who you need to call so you don't
dig into some buried hazard. Translation $$$. You may have to go before a
zoning board so your neighbors have a chance to comment on this new thing
that they will have to look at when they snoop over your fence. It may
require a variance .......... more $$$. It may require a permit
...............$$$.

Don't just build something and spend the time and money without
investigating. And don't go down there and say, "This is what I am going to
do", but rather, "I'm thinking about .............".

Always tapdance within the lines. It's cheaper and easier. And in the end,
a few more bucks, but you will have it right, and no one can come along and
make you tear it down or move it.

Whether or not you have a poured foundation is the key. And since these
things are made of tin a little thicker than tin cans, it's good to have
them up a little so they don't just rot off at the floor line.

HTH

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide

This shed is within all zoning requirements. It replaces an old shed
with the same footprint, that was not anchored (prior owner put it up)
and blew off in a 60 mph wind after the door was left open. Anchoring
is okay, even recommended.

It is in high desert, where rainfall is limited but arrives in bursts.

The rainwater intrusion is largely because the slab is 5 feet longer
than the shed, forming a porch that is level, not sloped for drainage
away from the shed. The other problem is that turf has grown up and
forming a low dam around the slab. I will lower the turf or replace
it with a gravel drain.

It is a very good slab, and we have plans for it in future, so don't
want to mess it up by pouring another slab on top of it. Also, it is
in a location that is no longer accessible by a cement truck.

This thread has helped us to decide to use the anchor system but omit
the floor system.

Una

On Jul 11, 9:50*am, "Steve B" wrote:
"DD_BobK" wrote in message

...
On Jul 9, 8:28 pm, "Pat" wrote:









"Una" wrote in
...
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una

Return the anchor kit and floor. Pour a concrete floor 2 inches thick on
top of your existing slab for your new shed. That will keep your shed
floor
dry. Just bolt the shed to the concrete slab using concrete anchors.

OP-

Pat's suggestion is really the way to go.
Messing around with the floor kit, gravel fill and plywood is an
easier & cheaper way to go
*but Pat's "topping slab" will give much better results.

cheers
Bob

Free advice on Usenet is worth ten times what one pays for it.

Check your local zoning laws. *A shed is a shed is a shed. *"Outbuildings"
are something that zoning and code enforcement usually ignore, as they are
mostly lean-to's or their equivalent, used to shelter equipment or animals,
and can be torn down with one good pull from a four wheel drive pickup with
a steel cable..

BUT

Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent structure, and
are then subject to all manner of regulation, INCLUDING raised taxes. *In
many places, a wood floor is not considered permanent, as it could be moved
easily. *So, people use wood floors and the kits that come with the
buildings.

Structures you erect require engineering approval. *If you buy a metal
building kit, this approval comes with the kit. *If you build, you will need
a licensed engineer to sign off on draftsman quality plans for such things
as bearing walls, truss loads, etc, and that alone can be hundreds of
dollars.

Definitely, a slab is the way to go. *I have done a couple where I poured a
slab with a pony wall (a short wall to mount the plate on), and that gave
more height to the building, as most are made for people with a maximum
height of 5'1". *The pony wall also keeps water out during rain, and if
placed on a slight rise, water infiltration is negligible. *It will require
modification of the door(s), though.

You may also be required to comply with setbacks from property lines, from
other buildings, and if you want electricity, may have to install a to code
feed and sub panel with breakers and GFCI circuits. *Then there's the CALL
BEFORE YOU DIG people, who are free, but who you need to call so you don't
dig into some buried hazard. *Translation $$$. *You may have to go before a
zoning board so your neighbors have a chance to comment on this new thing
that they will have to look at when they snoop over your fence. *It may
require a variance .......... more $$$. *It may require a permit
..............$$$.

Don't just build something and spend the time and money without
investigating. *And don't go down there and say, "This is what I am going to
do", but rather, "I'm thinking about .............".

Always tapdance within the lines. *It's cheaper and easier. *And in the end,
a few more bucks, but you will have it right, and no one can come along and
make you tear it down or move it.

Whether or not you have a poured foundation is the key. *And since these
things are made of tin a little thicker than tin cans, it's good to have
them up a little so they don't just rot off at the floor line.

HTH

Steve

Heart surgery pending?www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide




Steve-

You way too amped up on this......


..Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent
structure

not where I live....


Permits are not required for:

• Retaining or garden walls less than four feet high measured from
bottom of footing, which doesn’t
have a surcharge or affect drainage onto or off of property
• One story detached accessory building such as a storage shed or play
house with a floor area not
exceeding 120 square feet

BUT go figure

Permits are required for:
• Installing or replacing water heaters
• Installing or replacing faucets

"DD_BobK" wrote in message
...
On Jul 11, 9:50 am, "Steve B" wrote:
"DD_BobK" wrote in message

...
On Jul 9, 8:28 pm, "Pat" wrote:









"Una" wrote in
...
We ordered a metal shed kit with anchor kit for use on a cement
slab. Along with the anchor kit came a flooring kit, beams over
which the consumer lays plywood or decking, or fills with sand.

I am unsure if it is wise to use the flooring system. This new
shed replaces a similar shed that had chronic problems with water
running in under the frame, especially in windy wet weather.
Stuff to be kept dry had to be kept up off the slab. Will using
this flooring kit create a mold problem in the shed? Or habitat
for insects and rodents?

Una

Return the anchor kit and floor. Pour a concrete floor 2 inches thick on
top of your existing slab for your new shed. That will keep your shed
floor
dry. Just bolt the shed to the concrete slab using concrete anchors.

OP-

Pat's suggestion is really the way to go.
Messing around with the floor kit, gravel fill and plywood is an
easier & cheaper way to go
but Pat's "topping slab" will give much better results.

cheers
Bob

Free advice on Usenet is worth ten times what one pays for it.

Check your local zoning laws. A shed is a shed is a shed. "Outbuildings"
are something that zoning and code enforcement usually ignore, as they are
mostly lean-to's or their equivalent, used to shelter equipment or
animals,
and can be torn down with one good pull from a four wheel drive pickup
with
a steel cable..

BUT

Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent structure,
and
are then subject to all manner of regulation, INCLUDING raised taxes. In
many places, a wood floor is not considered permanent, as it could be
moved
easily. So, people use wood floors and the kits that come with the
buildings.

Structures you erect require engineering approval. If you buy a metal
building kit, this approval comes with the kit. If you build, you will
need
a licensed engineer to sign off on draftsman quality plans for such things
as bearing walls, truss loads, etc, and that alone can be hundreds of
dollars.

Definitely, a slab is the way to go. I have done a couple where I poured a
slab with a pony wall (a short wall to mount the plate on), and that gave
more height to the building, as most are made for people with a maximum
height of 5'1". The pony wall also keeps water out during rain, and if
placed on a slight rise, water infiltration is negligible. It will require
modification of the door(s), though.

You may also be required to comply with setbacks from property lines, from
other buildings, and if you want electricity, may have to install a to
code
feed and sub panel with breakers and GFCI circuits. Then there's the CALL
BEFORE YOU DIG people, who are free, but who you need to call so you don't
dig into some buried hazard. Translation $$$. You may have to go before a
zoning board so your neighbors have a chance to comment on this new thing
that they will have to look at when they snoop over your fence. It may
require a variance .......... more $$$. It may require a permit
..............$$$.

Don't just build something and spend the time and money without
investigating. And don't go down there and say, "This is what I am going
to
do", but rather, "I'm thinking about .............".

Always tapdance within the lines. It's cheaper and easier. And in the end,
a few more bucks, but you will have it right, and no one can come along
and
make you tear it down or move it.

Whether or not you have a poured foundation is the key. And since these
things are made of tin a little thicker than tin cans, it's good to have
them up a little so they don't just rot off at the floor line.

HTH

Steve

Heart surgery pending?www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide




Steve-

You way too amped up on this......


..Once they are put on a slab, they are considered a permanent
structure

not where I live....


Permits are not required for:

• Retaining or garden walls less than four feet high measured from
bottom of footing, which doesn’t
have a surcharge or affect drainage onto or off of property
• One story detached accessory building such as a storage shed or play
house with a floor area not
exceeding 120 square feet

BUT go figure

Permits are required for:
• Installing or replacing water heaters
• Installing or replacing faucets

reply.

Imbecile.

Someone asks on Usenet: What's the weather going to be like tomorrow?

Answer, it depends on where you live. Check the local conditions.

One size does not fit all, and Usenet answers are worth the paper they are
written on. They are only suggestions that may or may not apply where YOU
(or the OP) live.

Sounds to me like they figured out a solution in spite of everyone.

Steve