I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out. Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem? Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. I might be willing to
clean the fuel line. I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul

On Jul 8, 4:43*pm, PaulD wrote:
I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. *He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out. *Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem? *Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. *I might be willing to
clean the fuel line. *I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul

Not sure if your B&S is the same as my 6.5HP Tecumseh in this respect,
but bad gas and/or a loose or unbalanced blade will do this to mine. A
bit of Seafoam in some new gas usually clears it up in a few run-
hours.

Sounds like a fuel problem of some kind. My guess include
water in the gas, or bad gasket betwen the carb and the
engine.

If you're so inclined, tip the mower on its side. Remove the
float bowl, and dump whatever is in the float bowl. Tip the
mower back up, and let the gas drain for a second.

Wipe the gas off the deck and let it dry before you try to
start the engine. It is possible to light a lawn mower on
fire, yes, I've done it.

While you're working, snug the bolts that hold the carb to
the engine.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"PaulD" wrote in message
...
I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. He has a 6.5
HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on
the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly
peters out. Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem?
Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to
get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. I might be
willing to
clean the fuel line. I didn't notice any fuel filter on
this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul

"PaulD" wrote in message
...
I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out. Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem? Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. I might be willing to
clean the fuel line. I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul


This is a long shot, but I once had a lawn mower that did that. Somehow, I
think the air filter was completely clogged with dirt so the air intake
wasn't working correctly. I removed the air filter and would start and
continue to run, unlike before I took out the filter. I then cleaned the
air filter and it worked okay.

PaulD writes:

I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out. Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem? Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.

Pressing bulb supplies gas, so it starts.
Sounds like the normal gas delivery system doesn't work since it dies out.

Google found a lot of possibilities.

I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. I might be willing to
clean the fuel line. I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.

Try these Google search terms:

briggs and stratton 6.5hp starts then stalls

-or-

We've got a nice lawnmower repair place near by...maybe there's one
in your area.

--
Dan Espen

On Jul 8, 4:43*pm, PaulD wrote:
I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. *He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out. *Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem? *Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. *I might be willing to
clean the fuel line. *I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul

If it has a paper air filter and it gets soaked with oil it will
starve for air. See if it continues to run with the filter removed. If
it has a carb bowl try replacing the brass screw the holds the bowl
on. That way you can change it while holding the bowl in place.
(You'll need to catch the draining gas in something!) . The is a large
and a small hole in the bowl screw that meters the gas. The small hole
is most likely plugged.

On Fri, 8 Jul 2011 14:43:08 -0700 (PDT), PaulD
wrote:

I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out. Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem? Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. I might be willing to
clean the fuel line. I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul
Most likely plugged fuel jets or water in the float bowl. The
carburetor will need to be cleaned - which in this case will LIKELY
require removaland dissassembly. You MIGHT get away with putting some
SeaFoam treatment in the gas, letting it sit for a while, and then
coaxing it to run with the primer until it finally draws gas through
the jets - but it is LIKELY a waste of time and effort (as well as
SeaFoam) in this case. If you can remove the float bowl and clean it
out, as well as the jet that is part of the "bolt", THEN running sea
foam through it when it starts and runs poorly will probably finish
the job and this is easier than disconnecting all the governor
linkages etc and getting everything back together properly if you are
not really familliar with the setup.

It almost definitely will NOT have a fuel filter - and it is almost
certainly a carburetor problem.

On Fri, 8 Jul 2011 20:01:43 -0400, "RogerT"
wrote:

"PaulD" wrote in message
...
I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out. Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem? Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. I might be willing to
clean the fuel line. I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul


This is a long shot, but I once had a lawn mower that did that. Somehow, I
think the air filter was completely clogged with dirt so the air intake
wasn't working correctly. I removed the air filter and would start and
continue to run, unlike before I took out the filter. I then cleaned the
air filter and it worked okay.
Good thing to check anyway - but generally in THAT situation, the
primer won't make it run because it's already too rich.

On Fri, 08 Jul 2011 17:40:35 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Fri, 8 Jul 2011 14:43:08 -0700 (PDT), PaulD
wrote:

I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out. Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem? Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. I might be willing to
clean the fuel line. I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul

Before you go into working on the mower engine, try some starting
fluid. Remove the air filter and spray the throat tube of the carb. It
may be just something sticking -- choke butterfly or something small.

I did this for a neighbor and things worked out well.

The best spray is: Valvoline® Extra Strength Starting Fluid from the
auto parts supply. Just a few dollars...

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57

Follow instructions on the can. It may take a few tries.

The Seafoam product mentioned is a good idea for the fuel tank...

YMMV...
Be EXTREMELY carefull using starting fluid. Since the engine WILL
start with the primer I, as a mechanic, would NOT use starting fluid.
It is reserved for when you can't get an engine to fire with any other
method.

If you can get the sea foam to get to where the problem is - in the
float bowl, it will GENERALLY do the job - but if the float bowl is
full of gas (or water) that is not getting drwn through the carb
because the jets are clogged, getting the sea foam into the carb
without removing the float bowl can be difficult. SOMETIMES you can
keep the engine running with the primer bulb long enough to get enough
gas through the carb to get the sea-foam to where it can do some good.

If you can get it to the point that it stays running, no matter how
poorly, the sea foam is always a good bet.

On Jul 9, 12:48*am, wrote:


*Be EXTREMELY carefull using starting fluid. Since the engine WILL
start with the primer I, as a mechanic, would NOT use starting fluid.
It is reserved for when you can't get an engine to fire with any other
method.

If you can get the sea foam to get to where the problem is - in the
float bowl, it will GENERALLY do the job - but if the float bowl is
full of gas (or water) that is not getting drwn through the carb
because the jets are clogged, getting the sea foam into the carb
without removing the float bowl can be difficult. SOMETIMES you can
keep the engine running with the primer bulb long enough to get enough
gas through the carb to get the sea-foam to where it can do some good.

If you can get it to the point that it stays running, no matter how
poorly, the sea foam is always a good bet.-

I agree that it is a clogged jet. This is an easy diagnosis since it
will run for a second using the primer bulb. Fuel is obviously getting
to the primer bulb, so therefore the delivery system to the carb is
probably ok. But it could also be a stuck float valve (rare).

Either way, the carb has to be "gone thru" or the carb will clog again
or the valve will stick again. Using Seafoam just won't cut it when
you want to do the job right.

Hank ~~~ not a fan of "mechanic in a can"

PaulD wrote:
I am helping a neighbor with his push mower. He has a 6.5 HP Briggs
and Stratton engine.
When I prime the engine with gas using the little button on the mower,
the engine starts up with no problem, but then quickly peters out. Is
this likely a carberator problem? or a fuel supply problem? Are there
any quick fixes that we can try.
I am willing to give him a hand, but I don't really want to get into
rebuilding his carb or something like that. I might be willing to
clean the fuel line. I didn't notice any fuel filter on this unit,
but I might not be looking at the right spot.
Thanks,
Paul

I had one that did that recently, and discovered the main jet was plugged.
Pulled off the diaphram, and cleaned out the jet with a fine steel wire, and
everything was fine.

On Sat, 9 Jul 2011 01:36:07 -0700 (PDT), Hank
wrote:

On Jul 9, 12:48Â*am, wrote:


Â*Be EXTREMELY carefull using starting fluid. Since the engine WILL
start with the primer I, as a mechanic, would NOT use starting fluid.
It is reserved for when you can't get an engine to fire with any other
method.

If you can get the sea foam to get to where the problem is - in the
float bowl, it will GENERALLY do the job - but if the float bowl is
full of gas (or water) that is not getting drwn through the carb
because the jets are clogged, getting the sea foam into the carb
without removing the float bowl can be difficult. SOMETIMES you can
keep the engine running with the primer bulb long enough to get enough
gas through the carb to get the sea-foam to where it can do some good.

If you can get it to the point that it stays running, no matter how
poorly, the sea foam is always a good bet.-

I agree that it is a clogged jet. This is an easy diagnosis since it
will run for a second using the primer bulb. Fuel is obviously getting
to the primer bulb, so therefore the delivery system to the carb is
probably ok. But it could also be a stuck float valve (rare).

Either way, the carb has to be "gone thru" or the carb will clog again
or the valve will stick again. Using Seafoam just won't cut it when
you want to do the job right.

Hank ~~~ not a fan of "mechanic in a can"


As a mechanic, I'll disagree with SeaFoam not "cutting it". It does a
better job, in many cases, than going at it with a fine wire or "tip
cleaner" like a lot of mechanics and wanna-bees do.

It will not harm the jet - and using a bit in the gas on a regular
basis PREVENTS the problem - which even the best "skin and bones"
mechanic can NOT do.

On Jul 9, 4:02*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 9 Jul 2011 01:36:07 -0700 (PDT), Hank
wrote:





On Jul 9, 12:48*am, wrote:

*Be EXTREMELY carefull using starting fluid. Since the engine WILL
start with the primer I, as a mechanic, would NOT use starting fluid.
It is reserved for when you can't get an engine to fire with any other
method.

If you can get the sea foam to get to where the problem is - in the
float bowl, it will GENERALLY do the job - but if the float bowl is
full of gas (or water) that is not getting drwn through the carb
because the jets are clogged, getting the sea foam into the carb
without removing the float bowl can be difficult. SOMETIMES you can
keep the engine running with the primer bulb long enough to get enough
gas through the carb to get the sea-foam to where it can do some good.

If you can get it to the point that it stays running, no matter how
poorly, the sea foam is always a good bet.-

I agree that it is a clogged jet. This is an easy diagnosis since it
will run for a second using the primer bulb. Fuel is obviously getting
to the primer bulb, so therefore the delivery system to the carb is
probably ok. But it could also be a stuck float valve (rare).

Either way, the carb has to be "gone thru" or the carb will clog again
or the valve will stick again. Using Seafoam just won't cut it when
you want to do the job right.

Hank ~~~ not a fan of "mechanic in a can"

As a mechanic, I'll disagree with SeaFoam not "cutting it". It does a
better job, in many cases, than going at it with a fine wire or "tip
cleaner" like a lot of mechanics and wanna-bees do.

It will not harm the jet - and using a bit in the gas on a regular
basis PREVENTS the problem - which even the best "skin and bones"
mechanic can NOT do.

Mechanics don't prevent problems, they fix and advise about problems.
Preventing carb problems is the users responsibilty by keeping dirt
out and keeping fresh gas running thru it. When properly maintained,
no one should need Sea Foam. So, why pay the additional expense?

Hank ~~~~ anybody on the internet can call themselves a mechanic

Hank wrote:

Mechanics don't prevent problems, they fix and advise about problems.
Preventing carb problems is the users responsibilty by keeping dirt
out and keeping fresh gas running thru it. When properly maintained,
no one should need Sea Foam. So, why pay the additional expense?


Because you'd get in trouble if you stole it?

On Jul 9, 4:02*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 9 Jul 2011 01:36:07 -0700 (PDT), Hank
wrote:





On Jul 9, 12:48*am, wrote:

*Be EXTREMELY carefull using starting fluid. Since the engine WILL
start with the primer I, as a mechanic, would NOT use starting fluid.
It is reserved for when you can't get an engine to fire with any other
method.

If you can get the sea foam to get to where the problem is - in the
float bowl, it will GENERALLY do the job - but if the float bowl is
full of gas (or water) that is not getting drwn through the carb
because the jets are clogged, getting the sea foam into the carb
without removing the float bowl can be difficult. SOMETIMES you can
keep the engine running with the primer bulb long enough to get enough
gas through the carb to get the sea-foam to where it can do some good.

If you can get it to the point that it stays running, no matter how
poorly, the sea foam is always a good bet.-

I agree that it is a clogged jet. This is an easy diagnosis since it
will run for a second using the primer bulb. Fuel is obviously getting
to the primer bulb, so therefore the delivery system to the carb is
probably ok. But it could also be a stuck float valve (rare).

Either way, the carb has to be "gone thru" or the carb will clog again
or the valve will stick again. Using Seafoam just won't cut it when
you want to do the job right.

Hank ~~~ not a fan of "mechanic in a can"

As a mechanic, I'll disagree with SeaFoam not "cutting it". It does a
better job, in many cases, than going at it with a fine wire or "tip
cleaner" like a lot of mechanics and wanna-bees do.

It will not harm the jet - and using a bit in the gas on a regular
basis PREVENTS the problem - which even the best "skin and bones"
mechanic can NOT do.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You must have stock in seafoam. I never use it Small engines were
designed to work fine on just gas.

Since it starts by priming it the gas is fine.

The carb is messed up. Most B&S use a conventional float bowl style
carb. Either the gas is not able to enter the venturi via the jets
from the float bowl or the float valve is preventing the gas from
filling the float bowl. You might be able to pull the float bowl and
clean it out without removing the carb. The float and it's needle
valve may be removable with just the bowl off. You can spray some
carb cleaner up the jets if the bowl comes off. Also you can check
and see that gas comes out when the float is down. Otherwise I'd take
the carb off. Occasionally you can unstick a stuck float by banging a
bit on the side of the carb with something like a small piece of wood
or the handle of a tool so I'll try that on no gas situations.

On Mon, 11 Jul 2011 04:50:55 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

On Jul 9, 4:02Â*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 9 Jul 2011 01:36:07 -0700 (PDT), Hank
wrote:





On Jul 9, 12:48Â*am, wrote:

Â*Be EXTREMELY carefull using starting fluid. Since the engine WILL
start with the primer I, as a mechanic, would NOT use starting fluid.
It is reserved for when you can't get an engine to fire with any other
method.

If you can get the sea foam to get to where the problem is - in the
float bowl, it will GENERALLY do the job - but if the float bowl is
full of gas (or water) that is not getting drwn through the carb
because the jets are clogged, getting the sea foam into the carb
without removing the float bowl can be difficult. SOMETIMES you can
keep the engine running with the primer bulb long enough to get enough
gas through the carb to get the sea-foam to where it can do some good.

If you can get it to the point that it stays running, no matter how
poorly, the sea foam is always a good bet.-

I agree that it is a clogged jet. This is an easy diagnosis since it
will run for a second using the primer bulb. Fuel is obviously getting
to the primer bulb, so therefore the delivery system to the carb is
probably ok. But it could also be a stuck float valve (rare).

Either way, the carb has to be "gone thru" or the carb will clog again
or the valve will stick again. Using Seafoam just won't cut it when
you want to do the job right.

Hank ~~~ not a fan of "mechanic in a can"

As a mechanic, I'll disagree with SeaFoam not "cutting it". It does a
better job, in many cases, than going at it with a fine wire or "tip
cleaner" like a lot of mechanics and wanna-bees do.

It will not harm the jet - and using a bit in the gas on a regular
basis PREVENTS the problem - which even the best "skin and bones"
mechanic can NOT do.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You must have stock in seafoam. I never use it Small engines were
designed to work fine on just gas.

Since it starts by priming it the gas is fine.

The carb is messed up. Most B&S use a conventional float bowl style
carb. Either the gas is not able to enter the venturi via the jets
from the float bowl or the float valve is preventing the gas from
filling the float bowl. You might be able to pull the float bowl and
clean it out without removing the carb. The float and it's needle
valve may be removable with just the bowl off. You can spray some
carb cleaner up the jets if the bowl comes off. Also you can check
and see that gas comes out when the float is down. Otherwise I'd take
the carb off. Occasionally you can unstick a stuck float by banging a
bit on the side of the carb with something like a small piece of wood
or the handle of a tool so I'll try that on no gas situations.
No stock - just a LOT of experience with Sea Foam and other additives
over 4 decades as a mechanic.
(automotive, small engine, industrial equipment, farm eqipment,
motorcycle, marine and aviation)

On Jul 11, 1:47*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 11 Jul 2011 04:50:55 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc





wrote:
On Jul 9, 4:02*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 9 Jul 2011 01:36:07 -0700 (PDT), Hank
wrote:

On Jul 9, 12:48*am, wrote:

*Be EXTREMELY carefull using starting fluid. Since the engine WILL
start with the primer I, as a mechanic, would NOT use starting fluid.
It is reserved for when you can't get an engine to fire with any other
method.

If you can get the sea foam to get to where the problem is - in the
float bowl, it will GENERALLY do the job - but if the float bowl is
full of gas (or water) that is not getting drwn through the carb
because the jets are clogged, getting the sea foam into the carb
without removing the float bowl can be difficult. SOMETIMES you can
keep the engine running with the primer bulb long enough to get enough
gas through the carb to get the sea-foam to where it can do some good.

If you can get it to the point that it stays running, no matter how
poorly, the sea foam is always a good bet.-

I agree that it is a clogged jet. This is an easy diagnosis since it
will run for a second using the primer bulb. Fuel is obviously getting
to the primer bulb, so therefore the delivery system to the carb is
probably ok. But it could also be a stuck float valve (rare).

Either way, the carb has to be "gone thru" or the carb will clog again
or the valve will stick again. Using Seafoam just won't cut it when
you want to do the job right.

Hank ~~~ not a fan of "mechanic in a can"

As a mechanic, I'll disagree with SeaFoam not "cutting it". It does a
better job, in many cases, than going at it with a fine wire or "tip
cleaner" like a lot of mechanics and wanna-bees do.

It will not harm the jet - and using a bit in the gas on a regular
basis PREVENTS the problem - which even the best "skin and bones"
mechanic can NOT do.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You must have stock in seafoam. *I never use it *Small engines were
designed to work fine on just gas.

Since it starts by priming it the gas is fine.

The carb is messed up. *Most B&S use a conventional float bowl style
carb. *Either the gas is not able to enter the venturi via the jets
from the float bowl or the float valve is preventing the gas from
filling the float bowl. *You might be able to pull the float bowl and
clean it out without removing the carb. *The float and it's needle
valve may be removable with just the bowl off. *You can spray some
carb cleaner up the jets if the bowl comes off. *Also you can check
and see that gas comes out when the float is down. *Otherwise I'd take
the carb off. *Occasionally you can unstick a stuck float by banging a
bit on the side of the carb with something like a small piece of wood
or the handle of a tool so I'll try that on no gas situations.

*No stock - just a LOT of experience with Sea Foam and other additives
over 4 decades as a mechanic.
(automotive, small engine, industrial equipment, farm eqipment,
motorcycle, marine and aviation)- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Most additives are snake oil.

On Mon, 11 Jul 2011 11:19:49 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

On Jul 11, 1:47Â*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 11 Jul 2011 04:50:55 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc





wrote:
On Jul 9, 4:02Â*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 9 Jul 2011 01:36:07 -0700 (PDT), Hank
wrote:

On Jul 9, 12:48Â*am, wrote:

Â*Be EXTREMELY carefull using starting fluid. Since the engine WILL
start with the primer I, as a mechanic, would NOT use starting fluid.
It is reserved for when you can't get an engine to fire with any other
method.

If you can get the sea foam to get to where the problem is - in the
float bowl, it will GENERALLY do the job - but if the float bowl is
full of gas (or water) that is not getting drwn through the carb
because the jets are clogged, getting the sea foam into the carb
without removing the float bowl can be difficult. SOMETIMES you can
keep the engine running with the primer bulb long enough to get enough
gas through the carb to get the sea-foam to where it can do some good.

If you can get it to the point that it stays running, no matter how
poorly, the sea foam is always a good bet.-

I agree that it is a clogged jet. This is an easy diagnosis since it
will run for a second using the primer bulb. Fuel is obviously getting
to the primer bulb, so therefore the delivery system to the carb is
probably ok. But it could also be a stuck float valve (rare).

Either way, the carb has to be "gone thru" or the carb will clog again
or the valve will stick again. Using Seafoam just won't cut it when
you want to do the job right.

Hank ~~~ not a fan of "mechanic in a can"

As a mechanic, I'll disagree with SeaFoam not "cutting it". It does a
better job, in many cases, than going at it with a fine wire or "tip
cleaner" like a lot of mechanics and wanna-bees do.

It will not harm the jet - and using a bit in the gas on a regular
basis PREVENTS the problem - which even the best "skin and bones"
mechanic can NOT do.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You must have stock in seafoam. Â*I never use it Â*Small engines were
designed to work fine on just gas.

Since it starts by priming it the gas is fine.

The carb is messed up. Â*Most B&S use a conventional float bowl style
carb. Â*Either the gas is not able to enter the venturi via the jets
from the float bowl or the float valve is preventing the gas from
filling the float bowl. Â*You might be able to pull the float bowl and
clean it out without removing the carb. Â*The float and it's needle
valve may be removable with just the bowl off. Â*You can spray some
carb cleaner up the jets if the bowl comes off. Â*Also you can check
and see that gas comes out when the float is down. Â*Otherwise I'd take
the carb off. Â*Occasionally you can unstick a stuck float by banging a
bit on the side of the carb with something like a small piece of wood
or the handle of a tool so I'll try that on no gas situations.

Â*No stock - just a LOT of experience with Sea Foam and other additives
over 4 decades as a mechanic.
(automotive, small engine, industrial equipment, farm eqipment,
motorcycle, marine and aviation)- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Most additives are snake oil.
You are free to believe that.
Most non mechanics, particularly on use-net are clueless when it comes
to engines too.