What's a good brand of electric pruning saw.
Something like an 8" chainsaw.

Every cheap electric garden tool I've purchased has burned up
very quickly. It's always the same thing. The motor brush holders
are made of plastic. Brushes heat up, plastic melts, brushes can't move,
Arcs burn up the commutator. Motor dead.

You'd think they'd at least put in a thermal coutout.

Anybody make a small, lightweight electric chainsaw that won't die
the first time I cut thru a 3" tree limb?

mike wrote:
What's a good brand of electric pruning saw.
Something like an 8" chainsaw.

Every cheap electric garden tool I've purchased has burned up
very quickly. It's always the same thing. The motor brush holders
are made of plastic. Brushes heat up, plastic melts, brushes can't move,
Arcs burn up the commutator. Motor dead.

You'd think they'd at least put in a thermal coutout.

Anybody make a small, lightweight electric chainsaw that won't die
the first time I cut thru a 3" tree limb?
Hi,
Overloading a motor will cause over heat.....

mike wrote:
What's a good brand of electric pruning saw.
Something like an 8" chainsaw.

Every cheap electric garden tool I've purchased has burned up
very quickly. It's always the same thing. The motor brush holders
are made of plastic. Brushes heat up, plastic melts, brushes can't
move, Arcs burn up the commutator. Motor dead.

Every one I've had has lasted for years. But then, if it is a high current
motor, like a chain saw, I use a high current power cord, and use care not to
load them down too much. If you don't have a 12 ga. power cord, get one.

I've probably had my electric "Wen" saw for 20 years.

Every cheap electric garden tool I've purchased has burned up
very quickly. It's always the same thing. The motor brush holders
are made of plastic. Brushes heat up, plastic melts, brushes can't
move, Arcs burn up the commutator. Motor dead.

You are either overloading it, or using the wrong size extension cord.

They are made to do what they do without burning out. Granted, there are
different qualities of them made. Maybe you just need to spring for a good
one. And a good cord.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
www.cabgbypasssurgery.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide

That's essentially what I was thinking. The OP may get
better service by observing the duty cycle, which is
probably one minute on, 30 minutes off. Or some such
unrealistic figures.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...

Hi,
Overloading a motor will cause over heat.....

On May 2, 9:26*am, mike wrote:
What's a good brand of electric pruning saw.
Something like an 8" chainsaw.

Every cheap electric garden tool I've purchased has burned up
very quickly. *It's always the same thing. *The motor brush holders
are made of plastic. *Brushes heat up, plastic melts, brushes can't move,
Arcs burn up the commutator. *Motor dead.

You'd think they'd at least put in a thermal coutout.

Anybody make a small, lightweight electric chainsaw that won't die
the first time I cut thru a 3" tree limb?

What do you use 18ga 50-100ft extension cords? Overheating is quickly
caused by using to small a gauge extension cord, allowing voltage to
drop. Ive never had anything electric burn out, even my cheap sears
chain saw, and it never got hot, I use 12 ga cords. All electric
equipment I have comes with instructions to the proper gauge to use
for the length you need. Google it to see if its not an extension cord
issue. Sthil, Makita and maybe they make an electric Echo and
Huskavarna, are commercial equipment, but I bet its your cord that is
to small to supply the right power. I even test my runs with a volt
meter just to be sure when im 100ft out, because maybe your house
supply can be low in the hot summer months due to everyone straining
the utility co. Your tool needs its rated voltage.

On 5/2/2011 10:26 AM, mike wrote:
What's a good brand of electric pruning saw.
Something like an 8" chainsaw.

Every cheap electric garden tool I've purchased has burned up
very quickly. It's always the same thing. The motor brush holders
are made of plastic. Brushes heat up, plastic melts, brushes can't move,
Arcs burn up the commutator. Motor dead.

You'd think they'd at least put in a thermal coutout.

Anybody make a small, lightweight electric chainsaw that won't die
the first time I cut thru a 3" tree limb?

I've been quite happy with my McCullough electric, with maybe a 14" bar
on it. Bought it for $15 at a garage sale from some fellow that moved
into a condo, and realized he wasn't allowed to touch the trees. I
wouldn't try to do production work with it, but for the 2-3 times a year
I use it for pruning and cutting up fallen limbs (some up to 4"), it
seems to work fine. I don't get along with small gas engines, especially
occasional-use ones, and it does what I need it to do. Like the others
said, I do use a 12ga cord with it.

--
aem sends...

On May 2, 9:47*pm, aemeijers wrote:
On 5/2/2011 10:26 AM, mike wrote:

What's a good brand of electric pruning saw.
Something like an 8" chainsaw.

Every cheap electric garden tool I've purchased has burned up
very quickly. It's always the same thing. The motor brush holders
are made of plastic. Brushes heat up, plastic melts, brushes can't move,
Arcs burn up the commutator. Motor dead.

You'd think they'd at least put in a thermal coutout.

Anybody make a small, lightweight electric chainsaw that won't die
the first time I cut thru a 3" tree limb?

I've been quite happy with my McCullough electric, with maybe a 14" bar
on it. Bought it for $15 at a garage sale from some fellow that moved
into a condo, and realized he wasn't allowed to touch the trees. *I
wouldn't try to do production work with it, but for the 2-3 times a year
I use it for pruning and cutting up fallen limbs (some up to 4"), it
seems to work fine. I don't get along with small gas engines, especially
occasional-use ones, and it does what I need it to do. Like the others
said, I do use a 12ga cord with it.

--
aem sends...

Not manly enough for me, haha. I love the smell of 2 stroke
exhaust :-) However I can't dispute the hassles of small engines that
only get used a few times a year. Knock on wood, my 30 year old mac
has not given me much trouble for the years.

I agree with you guys about the cord. Too much voltage loss is bad
for the motor. Otherwise let the chain do the cutting and any major
brand should be fine. Patience grasshopper.

On 5/2/2011 11:31 AM, Bob F wrote:
mike wrote:
What's a good brand of electric pruning saw.
Something like an 8" chainsaw.

Every cheap electric garden tool I've purchased has burned up
very quickly. It's always the same thing. The motor brush holders
are made of plastic. Brushes heat up, plastic melts, brushes can't
move, Arcs burn up the commutator. Motor dead.

Every one I've had has lasted for years. But then, if it is a high current
motor, like a chain saw, I use a high current power cord, and use care not to
load them down too much. If you don't have a 12 ga. power cord, get one.

I've probably had my electric "Wen" saw for 20 years.


I second that. I've been using my Wen 14" electric for at least 25
years and except for buying new chains, and oil, it works great for
modest branch and small trunk work. It seems too underpowered to burn
out. If I try something too ambitious, it just binds and locks up on
me. I release the trigger, jiggle it out, and go get out the old
fashioned ax and maul. I've always used 14 or 12 gauge extension cords,
never anything smaller gauge.

On May 2, 9:26*am, mike wrote:
What's a good brand of electric pruning saw.
Something like an 8" chainsaw.

Every cheap electric garden tool I've purchased has burned up
very quickly. *It's always the same thing. *The motor brush holders
are made of plastic. *Brushes heat up, plastic melts, brushes can't move,
Arcs burn up the commutator. *Motor dead.

You'd think they'd at least put in a thermal coutout.

Anybody make a small, lightweight electric chainsaw that won't die
the first time I cut thru a 3" tree limb?

The brushes plastic area melting is just what happens with low
voltage, thats where the AC power is transfered to the motor.

On Mon, 02 May 2011 07:26:26 -0700, mike wrote:

Anybody make a small, lightweight electric chainsaw that won't die
the first time I cut thru a 3" tree limb?

I have a $50 chain saw from Lowes or Home Depot. I've cut many limbs a lot
larger than 3". But I always use Bar Chain Oil. I do not use any substitute
and I always make sure there is oil in the reservoir.

I was not able to find bar chain oil at Lowes or Home Depot. I had to order
it from Amazon.com.

Are you diligently using bar chain oil?

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Tue, 03 May 2011 18:48:08 -0400, Don Wiss
wrote:

On Mon, 02 May 2011 07:26:26 -0700, mike wrote:

Anybody make a small, lightweight electric chainsaw that won't die
the first time I cut thru a 3" tree limb?

I have a $50 chain saw from Lowes or Home Depot. I've cut many limbs a lot
larger than 3". But I always use Bar Chain Oil. I do not use any substitute
and I always make sure there is oil in the reservoir.

My Remington electric says *don't* use bar oil. I've had it for 8-9
years, and probably cut a 1/2 dozen cords of wood with it. Assorted
limbs and such, a couple 40' pine trees and most of a 60' maple.
I've sharpened it a few times- but otherwise I just use it and hang it
up.

I'm with those who feel the OP is either pushing his saws too hard--
or using the wrong extension cord.

Jim

On May 3, 5:48*pm, Don Wiss wrote:
On Mon, 02 May 2011 07:26:26 -0700, mike wrote:
Anybody make a small, lightweight electric chainsaw that won't die
the first time I cut thru a 3" tree limb?

I have a $50 chain saw from Lowes or Home Depot. I've cut many limbs a lot
larger than 3". But I always use Bar Chain Oil. I do not use any substitute
and I always make sure there is oil in the reservoir.

I was not able to find bar chain oil at Lowes or Home Depot. I had to order
it from Amazon.com.

Are you diligently using bar chain oil?

Don.www.donwiss.com(e-mail link at home page bottom).

He probably never put in oil.