My family all owns Stihl for gas saws, but I want an electric! Used a
Remington electric 20 years ago, but only long enough for about five
face cords. Not long enough for any problems to show up...

I like to turn outside on the deck now that the weather has cooled off,
and I need to cut a bunch of bowl blanks soon...

-j

J
Almost all the consumer electrics such as Poulan, Remington, McCullough
(sp?), Craftsman, and so on are made by Electrolux, so whatever one fits the
bill and is on sale will probably do. For what it is worth I have a Stihl
250 for outdoors and a Poulan 12 amp for indoors. Unless you are going to
put out the money for a Stihl electric, which is a class by itself, consider
the electric chainsaw disposable. Of course with that said, mine is going on
its third year of reasonable shop cutting with no problems except a replaced
switch.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

On Mon, 27 Sep 2004 00:17:55 -0400, JoanD'arcRoast
wrote:

My family all owns Stihl for gas saws, but I want an electric! Used a
Remington electric 20 years ago, but only long enough for about five
face cords. Not long enough for any problems to show up...

I like to turn outside on the deck now that the weather has cooled off,
and I need to cut a bunch of bowl blanks soon...

-j
They're probably all the same under the label, but my 14" craftsman
has taken 4 years of abuse, from garden work to tree roots and just
keeps on cutting... (my wife has had to sharpen the blade a few times)

a good 10 or 12 gauge outdoor cord is a big help..


Mac

if you search the archives, you'll find my detailed discussion of my trials
and tribulations with electric chain saws. Short version - tried sears,
tried poulan (16 inch)- they are about the same, but sears has 1/2 more hp -
I went through 12 chain saws - the worst didn't work out of the box, the
next worst failed in 5 seconds, the best lasted about an hour. All that ran
and then failed had the same failure, a nylon gear stripped off the shaft.
Each was replaced under warranty. Finally, in disgust, I spent $550 and
bought a STHIL with a 20 inch bar and have had no problems since, cutting
for extended periods with the full 20 inches burried in the wood, both rip
and cross cut. So, my recommendation is clear


..
"JoanD'arcRoast" wrote in message
. ..
My family all owns Stihl for gas saws, but I want an electric! Used a
Remington electric 20 years ago, but only long enough for about five
face cords. Not long enough for any problems to show up...

I like to turn outside on the deck now that the weather has cooled off,
and I need to cut a bunch of bowl blanks soon...

-j

I purchased a Poulan electric and have cross cut and ripped bowl blanks from
white oak, cherry, maple up to 18"s in diameter and I have yet to go through a
sprocket. I would say that I have exceeded the intended types of use of the
saw without failure.

Milwaukee makes a good heavy-duty electric chainsaw. I think Makita does
also, but you have to look in their catalog.

Ken Grunke
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/



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"william_b_noble" wrote: ( clip) All that ran and then failed had the same
failure, a nylon gear stripped off the shaft. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^
Bill, this is deja vu all over again. As I recall, the plastic gear that
broke on your saws is actually the spocket that drives the chain. My
electric saw is very much like the ones that failed you, except that it has
a steel drive sprocket. I have not had any problem.

So, my advice is: if you don't want to spend the big bucks for a Stihl or
Milwaukee electric saw, buy one of the cheaper ones, but make sure it has a
steel drive sprocket.

I do envy you with an electric Stihl saw, though.

My wife gave me a remington for christmas that she probably got from
home depot. I use it for cutting up logs while at the house and it
works well. My Rancher 55 gas chainsaw just makes too much noise.

JoanD'arcRoast wrote:
My family all owns Stihl for gas saws, but I want an electric! Used a
Remington electric 20 years ago, but only long enough for about five
face cords. Not long enough for any problems to show up...

I like to turn outside on the deck now that the weather has cooled off,
and I need to cut a bunch of bowl blanks soon...

-j

I bought a 14" McCulloch (1.5hp) two years ago. It works well on
crosscutting. It gets by on ripping. What happens is that the ripping
strips are packing into the sprocket plastic housing and interfere with the
chain alignment and provokes derailment of the chain. What I do after every
minute or so is that I use a pair of long nose to pull the wood ripping out
of the housing. The other thing is that the two cap screws holding the bar
in place are counter sunk in plastic. As a result the cap screws hex. HD.
are rotating while you're turning the nuts to tighten the chain adjustment.
I later fixed this problem with glue. All week I have crosscut and ripped
14"X14" birch and maple blocks. At time, I wished I had an automatic oilier
and the power of a gas engine. Now that I know better, I will spent more
money for my next electric chainsaw and get one that does not have the
drawback of this one.

"william kossack" wrote in message
news:58o6d.134499$D%.113573@attbi_s51...
My wife gave me a remington for christmas that she probably got from
home depot. I use it for cutting up logs while at the house and it
works well. My Rancher 55 gas chainsaw just makes too much noise.

JoanD'arcRoast wrote:
My family all owns Stihl for gas saws, but I want an electric! Used a
Remington electric 20 years ago, but only long enough for about five
face cords. Not long enough for any problems to show up...

I like to turn outside on the deck now that the weather has cooled off,
and I need to cut a bunch of bowl blanks soon...

-j

my remington does much of the same
it jams up cuttings and can be problematic to keep a tight chain

but it works well enough for occational use and will probably last me
for years.

It is a brave man that dares to return a gift from the wife to go buy
something better?

Denis Marier wrote:
I bought a 14" McCulloch (1.5hp) two years ago. It works well on
crosscutting. It gets by on ripping. What happens is that the ripping
strips are packing into the sprocket plastic housing and interfere with the
chain alignment and provokes derailment of the chain. What I do after every
minute or so is that I use a pair of long nose to pull the wood ripping out
of the housing. The other thing is that the two cap screws holding the bar
in place are counter sunk in plastic. As a result the cap screws hex. HD.
are rotating while you're turning the nuts to tighten the chain adjustment.
I later fixed this problem with glue. All week I have crosscut and ripped
14"X14" birch and maple blocks. At time, I wished I had an automatic oilier
and the power of a gas engine. Now that I know better, I will spent more
money for my next electric chainsaw and get one that does not have the
drawback of this one.

"william kossack" wrote in message
news:58o6d.134499$D%.113573@attbi_s51...

My wife gave me a remington for christmas that she probably got from
home depot. I use it for cutting up logs while at the house and it
works well. My Rancher 55 gas chainsaw just makes too much noise.

JoanD'arcRoast wrote:

My family all owns Stihl for gas saws, but I want an electric! Used a
Remington electric 20 years ago, but only long enough for about five
face cords. Not long enough for any problems to show up...

I like to turn outside on the deck now that the weather has cooled off,
and I need to cut a bunch of bowl blanks soon...

-j

Hi Leo

Leo don't feel bad but your saw also has the nylon gear, i'm sure, but
they sit on the inside, the electric motor has a steel shaft with a warm
gear machined on the end, the nylon gear runs on the steel warm gear and
the chain sprocket is on that same shaft on the outside of the housing,
if you do not force the saw the whole assembly last for a while but will
get stripped eventually, my advise to you is keep the chain sharp and
don't force the saw and you will get maximum life out of it, I got a
couple of those saws and one in use, the others have stripped nylon
gears, never got a price on a replacement gear so I don't know if it is
a good idea to replace the gears.
Hope this does not ruin your day

The other Leo
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Leo Lichtman wrote:
"william_b_noble" wrote: ( clip) All that ran and then failed had the same
failure, a nylon gear stripped off the shaft. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^
Bill, this is deja vu all over again. As I recall, the plastic gear that
broke on your saws is actually the spocket that drives the chain. My
electric saw is very much like the ones that failed you, except that it has
a steel drive sprocket. I have not had any problem.

So, my advice is: if you don't want to spend the big bucks for a Stihl or
Milwaukee electric saw, buy one of the cheaper ones, but make sure it has a
steel drive sprocket.

I do envy you with an electric Stihl saw, though.

the gear that failed was the gear reduction unit driven on the inside by the
motor (as I recall), with the metal shaft driving the chain sprocket - the
nylon gear would heat up and then lose it's grip on the shaft (the design
was just plain bad, no excuses possible). I was cutting full bar length,
but not stalling the motor or anything.

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"william_b_noble" wrote: ( clip) All that ran and then failed had the
same
failure, a nylon gear stripped off the shaft. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^
Bill, this is deja vu all over again. As I recall, the plastic gear that
broke on your saws is actually the spocket that drives the chain. My
electric saw is very much like the ones that failed you, except that it
has
a steel drive sprocket. I have not had any problem.

So, my advice is: if you don't want to spend the big bucks for a Stihl or
Milwaukee electric saw, buy one of the cheaper ones, but make sure it has
a
steel drive sprocket.

I do envy you with an electric Stihl saw, though.

Hi Bill

I have a Remington, it has a burned out motor, but when it was still
running I had taken off the plastic cover then installed the steel
spacers back on the saw and tightened up the nuts real well, never had
problems with stuck wood chips while ripping or any other way off sawing.

I only said that's what I did !!

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

william kossack wrote:
my remington does much of the same
it jams up cuttings and can be problematic to keep a tight chain

"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote: I have a Remington, it has a burned out motor, but
when it was still running I had taken off the plastic cover then installed
the steel spacers back on the saw and tightened up the nuts real well, never
had problems with stuck wood chips while ripping or any other way off
sawing.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Hey, other Leo! Here's where I get back at you. See--if you don't have to
stop and clear the wood chips every couple of minutes, the saw overheats and
burns out.

The Other Other Leo

sounds like it is part of the design of the saw

Leo Lichtman wrote:
"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote: I have a Remington, it has a burned out motor, but
when it was still running I had taken off the plastic cover then installed
the steel spacers back on the saw and tightened up the nuts real well, never
had problems with stuck wood chips while ripping or any other way off
sawing.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Hey, other Leo! Here's where I get back at you. See--if you don't have to
stop and clear the wood chips every couple of minutes, the saw overheats and
burns out.

The Other Other Leo

tried sears, tried poulan (16 inch)- they are about the same, but sears
has 1/2 more hp

HP is important but it isn't everything. I have had several electrics
including the $200+ Husqvarna. I burned that one out, too, by driving it
too hard, so whatever you get, use some restraint when cutting with it. My
current electric is the 3 hp/12 amp Remington I got at Lowe's, model
number 107625-02. I did a lot of checking on the internet and found
Remington offers several nearly identical 3 hp electrics and at least one
3.5 hp version (or they did 2 years ago). I put more faith in amp ratings
than horsepower, but this particular Remington model is 1/2 pound heavier
than the others. I reasoned that might indicate it was better built. I
haven't taken it apart to see what mechanical differences it might have
but it works well and "feels" like it may be a better unit. The auto
chain oiler works great and I have been pretty happy with it for the last
two years.

-mike paulson, fort collins, co

I recommend a Makita, the long one. This was the best in a test in Europe
and it's reasonable priced.
Unfortunately I've bought a rather expensive1800W electric Husqvarna for
roughing out blanks. I thougt the Husqvarna gas saws are fantastic, so the
electric will be the same, but it's terible. It's always giving trouble with
the chain tension and has been back 2 times for major problems, within 1
year. 9 out of 10, the tension varies from rather loose to rather to
tensioned, within 1 rotation.

I've had some cheap one's who lasted a year or so but there is also a very
old Makita, without chainbreak, it just won't give up, even with a poor oil
pump, very cheap for the oil but a bit unsafe.

Dutch Chris

"JoanD'arcRoast" schreef in bericht
. ..
My family all owns Stihl for gas saws, but I want an electric! Used a
Remington electric 20 years ago, but only long enough for about five
face cords. Not long enough for any problems to show up...

I like to turn outside on the deck now that the weather has cooled off,
and I need to cut a bunch of bowl blanks soon...

-j

Stihl

I've cut Cherry and Maple with my Craftsman for 4 years. I just cut some
Desert Ironwood with it. I was surprised it went through so easily. I'm sure
I need to sharpen the chain, now. But after the Ironwood it went through
some Cherry like it was butter.

Bob Darrah
West Linn, Oregon
"JoanD'arcRoast" wrote in message
. ..
My family all owns Stihl for gas saws, but I want an electric! Used a
Remington electric 20 years ago, but only long enough for about five
face cords. Not long enough for any problems to show up...

I like to turn outside on the deck now that the weather has cooled off,
and I need to cut a bunch of bowl blanks soon...

-j

In article ,
JoanD'arcRoast wrote:

My family all owns Stihl for gas saws, but I want an electric! Used a
Remington electric 20 years ago, but only long enough for about five
face cords. Not long enough for any problems to show up...

I like to turn outside on the deck now that the weather has cooled off,
and I need to cut a bunch of bowl blanks soon...

-j

Thanks for all the informative and thoughtful replies! I decided on the
"disposable" route; got a reconditioned Remington for $15 today, as I
am trying to save up for a bandsaw... thinking JET or Delta 14". Any
bandsaw opinions or caveats?

Thanks to all,
-j

Get ceramic guides for wet wood. The Delta has lower guides closer to the
table, which is a good thing.

"JoanD'arcRoast" wrote in message
. ..
Thanks for all the informative and thoughtful replies! I decided on the
"disposable" route; got a reconditioned Remington for $15 today, as I
am trying to save up for a bandsaw... thinking JET or Delta 14". Any
bandsaw opinions or caveats?

Let the group know how you are making up with your Remington.
"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Get ceramic guides for wet wood. The Delta has lower guides closer to the
table, which is a good thing.

"JoanD'arcRoast" wrote in message
. ..
Thanks for all the informative and thoughtful replies! I decided on the
"disposable" route; got a reconditioned Remington for $15 today, as I
am trying to save up for a bandsaw... thinking JET or Delta 14". Any
bandsaw opinions or caveats?

George said:

Get ceramic guides for wet wood. The Delta has lower guides closer to the
table, which is a good thing.

Ditto for both suggestions.
As for the ceramic guides and why you should consider them, I have
discovered that they are great at not only holding the blade
completely stationary and running cool, but they also help scrape off
the resin and crud that accumulates on the blade.

Also consider the Timberwolf blade designed especially for green wood.
Is has a heavy set on the teeth that helps prevent blade binding in
green wood. I've had OK luck with the Olson Pro 5/8 x 3TPI Hook style
blade in green wood, but make sure your wheels are coplanar with this
wide blade.

FWIW,

Greg G.