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#1
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. |
#2
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
Mikepier wrote:
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. Someone (dpb?) wrote years ago that there were Eaton-Cutler Hammer guts that would fit in an existing FPE box. I don't know if they still exist or anything about them. -- bud-- |
#3
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
On Mar 19, 1:11*am, bud-- wrote:
Mikepier wrote: I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually *110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. Someone (dpb?) wrote years ago that there were Eaton-Cutler Hammer guts that would fit in an existing FPE box. I don't know if they still exist or anything about them. -- bud--- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yeah, I read about those, but I figure the walls are wide open now, so why not just replace evreything new. |
#4
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
"Mikepier" wrote in message ... I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. * Unless you can relocate the cables or reframe the studs, you're gonna have a problem. That panel was made before minimum wire bending requirements were enacted, so any 8 circuit flush panel you'd get today will be wider. Bottom line, you need an 8 circuit "flush" mount panel. I think Square D, "QO" would be physically the smallest. After changing the one 240 volt circuit to 120 volt, you will need 1 double pole breaker and 7 single pole breakers, which will fill the panel, if you get full sized breakers. If you have need of future circuits you can use duplex breakers or get a larger panel |
#5
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. *The panels that I usually see now can be top or bottom feed so you should have plenty of slack for your hot wires. Your neutral my be short, but you can splice onto that. Many panels are made to fit between two studs with 16" centers. It looks as though your spacing is less. My first thought is to notch the existing studs, but that may not be possible for you. I know years ago some manufacturers made narrow panels that had extra space at the top and bottom. Here is a link to Square D's catalog. Page 7 and 8 lists the load centers and page 19 has the dimensions. It looks as though they have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate ground bar. http://static.schneider-electric.us/...0110PL9401.pdf |
#6
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
On Mar 19, 8:25*am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually *110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. *The panels that I usually see now can be top or bottom feed so you should have plenty of slack for your hot wires. *Your neutral my be short, but you can splice onto that. *Many panels are made to fit between two studs with 16" centers. *It looks as though your spacing is less. *My first thought is to notch the existing studs, but that may not be possible for you. *I know years ago some manufacturers made narrow panels that had extra space at the top and bottom. *Here is a link to Square D's catalog. *Page 7 and 8 lists the load centers and page 19 has the dimensions. *It looks as though they have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). *They show a picture of the inside on page 7. *You would probably have to go to a supply house that is a Square D distributor to get one. *Be sure to get a separate ground bar. http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for the Square D link. Yeah, that panel would work. But I should mention the stud to the left can be moved/relocated and one of the studs is just a filler, so I can go a little wider. I just came back from HD, and they had Siemans and Eaton CH 8/16 boxes. The Eaton CH is a bit smaller than the Seimans, at 11"W X 13" high. Lowes has Square D, but I think the biggest they have is 6/12. I'll definately loook into the Square D though at a supply house. The existing FPE panel In terms of seperate ground bar, the existing wiring in the condo is BX w/o ground, and the feed to the panel is BX and no ground. Do I still need it? I see "ground straps" that come with the new panels, should those be installed? In terms of quality, any of them better or worse? I know Square D has been around for ages. What about the others? |
#7
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
I'll definately loook into the Square D though at a supply house. The
existing FPE panel Sorry meant to say the existing FPE panel is 8"X11.5" |
#8
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
"Mikepier" wrote in message ... On Mar 19, 8:25 am, "John Grabowski" wrote: I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. *The panels that I usually see now can be top or bottom feed so you should have plenty of slack for your hot wires. Your neutral my be short, but you can splice onto that. Many panels are made to fit between two studs with 16" centers. It looks as though your spacing is less. My first thought is to notch the existing studs, but that may not be possible for you. I know years ago some manufacturers made narrow panels that had extra space at the top and bottom. Here is a link to Square D's catalog. Page 7 and 8 lists the load centers and page 19 has the dimensions. It looks as though they have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate ground bar. http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for the Square D link. Yeah, that panel would work. But I should mention the stud to the left can be moved/relocated and one of the studs is just a filler, so I can go a little wider. I just came back from HD, and they had Siemans and Eaton CH 8/16 boxes. The Eaton CH is a bit smaller than the Seimans, at 11"W X 13" high. Lowes has Square D, but I think the biggest they have is 6/12. I'll definately loook into the Square D though at a supply house. The existing FPE panel In terms of seperate ground bar, the existing wiring in the condo is BX w/o ground, and the feed to the panel is BX and no ground. Do I still need it? I see "ground straps" that come with the new panels, should those be installed? In terms of quality, any of them better or worse? I know Square D has been around for ages. What about the others ** The steel cable is the ground for a BX cable. You do not use the ground strap, as the ground, in this case being the steel of the cables as well as the enclosure itself, must be isolated from the neutral bar. You don't need to install a ground bar unless you plan to install some Romex cables or other type of cable that used a ground wire. All of the mentioned panels are fine. Just try to find one that best suits your needs |
#9
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
Be nice if someone would make breakers that fit into the old
FPE boxes. In this case, I'd think the OP would use whatever his local electrician reccomends. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "bud--" wrote in message ... Someone (dpb?) wrote years ago that there were Eaton-Cutler Hammer guts that would fit in an existing FPE box. I don't know if they still exist or anything about them. -- bud-- |
#10
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
Much easier to just snap in some new breakers. Compared to
pushing all those wires around. Still, it's a good idea to upgrade to new, if at all possible. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Mikepier" wrote in message ... Yeah, I read about those, but I figure the walls are wide open now, so why not just replace evreything new. |
#11
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
On Mar 18, 11:55*pm, Mikepier wrote:
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually *110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. is the entires condo main only 50 amps? |
#12
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
On 03/19/2011 10:18 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Much easier to just snap in some new breakers. Compared to pushing all those wires around. Still, it's a good idea to upgrade to new, if at all possible. In the case of a Stab-Lok panel that won't solve all the problems, even if you can find good breakers. Apparently the bus design of those panels is a weakness as well. I'd just replace with new. AFAIK Square-D QO seems to be the most highly regarded residential panel, although it's the Homeline (less expensive) that uses the standard breaker/bus size/shape. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#13
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
** The steel cable is the ground for a BX cable. You do not use the ground
strap, as the ground, in this case being the steel of the cables as well as the enclosure itself, must be isolated from the neutral bar. You don't need to install a ground bar unless you plan to install some Romex cables or other type of cable that used a ground wire. All of the mentioned panels are fine. Just try to find one that best suits your needs- Hide quoted text - Ok, now heres another question. I am running some new BX. I see HD has MC lite, which is lite metal clad with a ground.I believe the outer metal clad is made out of aluminum. It does feel lighter. And they sell the regular steel clad BX w/o ground. Both seem to run about the same price for about 100ft roll. Can I use the MC lite? Seems like you get both a metal clad and a ground in one cable. |
#14
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
On Mar 19, 10:25*am, bob haller wrote:
On Mar 18, 11:55*pm, Mikepier wrote: I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually *110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. is the entires condo main only 50 amps?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes. |
#15
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. *The panels that I usually see now can be top or bottom feed so you should have plenty of slack for your hot wires. Your neutral my be short, but you can splice onto that. Many panels are made to fit between two studs with 16" centers. It looks as though your spacing is less. My first thought is to notch the existing studs, but that may not be possible for you. I know years ago some manufacturers made narrow panels that had extra space at the top and bottom. Here is a link to Square D's catalog. Page 7 and 8 lists the load centers and page 19 has the dimensions. It looks as though they have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate ground bar. http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for the Square D link. Yeah, that panel would work. But I should mention the stud to the left can be moved/relocated and one of the studs is just a filler, so I can go a little wider. I just came back from HD, and they had Siemans and Eaton CH 8/16 boxes. The Eaton CH is a bit smaller than the Seimans, at 11"W X 13" high. Lowes has Square D, but I think the biggest they have is 6/12. I'll definately loook into the Square D though at a supply house. The existing FPE panel In terms of seperate ground bar, the existing wiring in the condo is BX w/o ground, and the feed to the panel is BX and no ground. Do I still need it? I see "ground straps" that come with the new panels, should those be installed? In terms of quality, any of them better or worse? I know Square D has been around for ages. What about the others? *I agree with RBM. If all of your grounds are through the BX armor, then you don't need a ground bar. It is a cheap and easy installation now though in case you add a Romex circuit later. You will need to make sure that all of your connectors and locknuts are tight to ensure good ground continuity through the BX. Do not bond the neutral bar to the panel using the ground straps. That would only be done if this was a main panel. What you have is a sub-panel. The bond strap is already (Or should be) installed at the meter and main breaker location. I think that Square D QO and the Cutler-Hammer tan line are best known for their higher quality, but any brand should suffice for your needs. Murray is made by Siemens and the circuit breakers are interchangeable. Lowes sells GE panels with white covers for apartments and condos. If you are able to move the stud and install a regular size panel, I suggest something like a 20 circuit or 24 circuit panel or at least a 12/20. You will have more room inside of the panel to work in and plenty of room for future expansion should the need arise. You may want to get some white electrical tape and apply it to the neutral conductors as it looks as though the color is fading on the existing wiring. |
#16
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
** The steel cable is the ground for a BX cable. You do not use the ground strap, as the ground, in this case being the steel of the cables as well as the enclosure itself, must be isolated from the neutral bar. You don't need to install a ground bar unless you plan to install some Romex cables or other type of cable that used a ground wire. All of the mentioned panels are fine. Just try to find one that best suits your needs- Hide quoted text - Ok, now heres another question. I am running some new BX. I see HD has MC lite, which is lite metal clad with a ground.I believe the outer metal clad is made out of aluminum. It does feel lighter. And they sell the regular steel clad BX w/o ground. Both seem to run about the same price for about 100ft roll. Can I use the MC lite? Seems like you get both a metal clad and a ground in one cable. *MC seems to be replacing BX and MC lite is very nice to carry and pull compared to steel. One of the local supply companies that I deal with only stocks MC. You can use MC cable, however the armor may not be an approved grounding conductor. So you would need to install the ground bar for that. Also you need to use connectors that are approved for MC cable. Regular BX connectors are not approved for MC although there are some that are approved for both. You will also need to install anti-short bushings at each end. |
#17
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
John Grabowski wrote: I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. *The panels that I usually see now can be top or bottom feed so you should have plenty of slack for your hot wires. Your neutral my be short, but you can splice onto that. Many panels are made to fit between two studs with 16" centers. It looks as though your spacing is less. My first thought is to notch the existing studs, but that may not be possible for you. I know years ago some manufacturers made narrow panels that had extra space at the top and bottom. Here is a link to Square D's catalog. Page 7 and 8 lists the load centers and page 19 has the dimensions. It looks as though they have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate ground bar. http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for the Square D link. Yeah, that panel would work. But I should mention the stud to the left can be moved/relocated and one of the studs is just a filler, so I can go a little wider. I just came back from HD, and they had Siemans and Eaton CH 8/16 boxes. The Eaton CH is a bit smaller than the Seimans, at 11"W X 13" high. Lowes has Square D, but I think the biggest they have is 6/12. I'll definately loook into the Square D though at a supply house. The existing FPE panel In terms of seperate ground bar, the existing wiring in the condo is BX w/o ground, and the feed to the panel is BX and no ground. Do I still need it? I see "ground straps" that come with the new panels, should those be installed? In terms of quality, any of them better or worse? I know Square D has been around for ages. What about the others? *I agree with RBM. If all of your grounds are through the BX armor, then you don't need a ground bar. It is a cheap and easy installation now though in case you add a Romex circuit later. You will need to make sure that all of your connectors and locknuts are tight to ensure good ground continuity through the BX. Do not bond the neutral bar to the panel using the ground straps. That would only be done if this was a main panel. What you have is a sub-panel. The bond strap is already (Or should be) installed at the meter and main breaker location. I think that Square D QO and the Cutler-Hammer tan line are best known for their higher quality, but any brand should suffice for your needs. Murray is made by Siemens and the circuit breakers are interchangeable. Lowes sells GE panels with white covers for apartments and condos. If you are able to move the stud and install a regular size panel, I suggest something like a 20 circuit or 24 circuit panel or at least a 12/20. You will have more room inside of the panel to work in and plenty of room for future expansion should the need arise. You may want to get some white electrical tape and apply it to the neutral conductors as it looks as though the color is fading on the existing wiring. I'm a big fan of Square D QO series as top quality. Just a week ago I helped someone replace a failed CH tan breaker feeding their heat pump, nothing wrong on the circuit, strictly a breaker failure. Even disconnected and sitting in my hand the breaker handle would not latch on. |
#18
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
John Grabowski wrote:
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. *The panels that I usually see now can be top or bottom feed so you should have plenty of slack for your hot wires. Your neutral my be short, but you can splice onto that. Many panels are made to fit between two studs with 16" centers. It looks as though your spacing is less. My first thought is to notch the existing studs, but that may not be possible for you. I know years ago some manufacturers made narrow panels that had extra space at the top and bottom. Here is a link to Square D's catalog. Page 7 and 8 lists the load centers and page 19 has the dimensions. It looks as though they have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate ground bar. http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for the Square D link. Yeah, that panel would work. But I should mention the stud to the left can be moved/relocated and one of the studs is just a filler, so I can go a little wider. I just came back from HD, and they had Siemans and Eaton CH 8/16 boxes. The Eaton CH is a bit smaller than the Seimans, at 11"W X 13" high. Lowes has Square D, but I think the biggest they have is 6/12. I'll definately loook into the Square D though at a supply house. The existing FPE panel In terms of seperate ground bar, the existing wiring in the condo is BX w/o ground, and the feed to the panel is BX and no ground. Do I still need it? I see "ground straps" that come with the new panels, should those be installed? In terms of quality, any of them better or worse? I know Square D has been around for ages. What about the others? *I agree with RBM. If all of your grounds are through the BX armor, then you don't need a ground bar. It is a cheap and easy installation now though in case you add a Romex circuit later. You will need to make sure that all of your connectors and locknuts are tight to ensure good ground continuity through the BX. Do not bond the neutral bar to the panel using the ground straps. That would only be done if this was a main panel. What you have is a sub-panel. The bond strap is already (Or should be) installed at the meter and main breaker location. I think that Square D QO and the Cutler-Hammer tan line are best known for their higher quality, but any brand should suffice for your needs. Murray is made by Siemens and the circuit breakers are interchangeable. Lowes sells GE panels with white covers for apartments and condos. If you are able to move the stud and install a regular size panel, I suggest something like a 20 circuit or 24 circuit panel or at least a 12/20. You will have more room inside of the panel to work in and plenty of room for future expansion should the need arise. You may want to get some white electrical tape and apply it to the neutral conductors as it looks as though the color is fading on the existing wiring. I'm a big fan of Square D QO series as top quality. Just a week ago I helped someone replace a failed CH tan breaker feeding their heat pump, nothing wrong on the circuit, strictly a breaker failure. Even disconnected and sitting in my hand the breaker handle would not latch on. *I don't think any breaker is failsafe. I've replaced QO breakers that have gone bad after 20 years. I think loose connections and arcing are contributing factors as is continuously pushing the load to the maximum breaker rating. |
#19
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
Nate Nagel wrote: On 03/19/2011 10:18 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote: Much easier to just snap in some new breakers. Compared to pushing all those wires around. Still, it's a good idea to upgrade to new, if at all possible. In the case of a Stab-Lok panel that won't solve all the problems, even if you can find good breakers. Apparently the bus design of those panels is a weakness as well. I'd just replace with new. AFAIK Square-D QO seems to be the most highly regarded residential panel, although it's the Homeline (less expensive) that uses the standard breaker/bus size/shape. Square D QO series is really a commercial series and is found in a lot of commercial installations. The QOB series is essentially the same breakers in a bolt on buss style used in some industrial applications. |
#20
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
John Grabowski wrote: John Grabowski wrote: I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. *The panels that I usually see now can be top or bottom feed so you should have plenty of slack for your hot wires. Your neutral my be short, but you can splice onto that. Many panels are made to fit between two studs with 16" centers. It looks as though your spacing is less. My first thought is to notch the existing studs, but that may not be possible for you. I know years ago some manufacturers made narrow panels that had extra space at the top and bottom. Here is a link to Square D's catalog. Page 7 and 8 lists the load centers and page 19 has the dimensions. It looks as though they have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate ground bar. http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for the Square D link. Yeah, that panel would work. But I should mention the stud to the left can be moved/relocated and one of the studs is just a filler, so I can go a little wider. I just came back from HD, and they had Siemans and Eaton CH 8/16 boxes. The Eaton CH is a bit smaller than the Seimans, at 11"W X 13" high. Lowes has Square D, but I think the biggest they have is 6/12. I'll definately loook into the Square D though at a supply house. The existing FPE panel In terms of seperate ground bar, the existing wiring in the condo is BX w/o ground, and the feed to the panel is BX and no ground. Do I still need it? I see "ground straps" that come with the new panels, should those be installed? In terms of quality, any of them better or worse? I know Square D has been around for ages. What about the others? *I agree with RBM. If all of your grounds are through the BX armor, then you don't need a ground bar. It is a cheap and easy installation now though in case you add a Romex circuit later. You will need to make sure that all of your connectors and locknuts are tight to ensure good ground continuity through the BX. Do not bond the neutral bar to the panel using the ground straps. That would only be done if this was a main panel. What you have is a sub-panel. The bond strap is already (Or should be) installed at the meter and main breaker location. I think that Square D QO and the Cutler-Hammer tan line are best known for their higher quality, but any brand should suffice for your needs. Murray is made by Siemens and the circuit breakers are interchangeable. Lowes sells GE panels with white covers for apartments and condos. If you are able to move the stud and install a regular size panel, I suggest something like a 20 circuit or 24 circuit panel or at least a 12/20. You will have more room inside of the panel to work in and plenty of room for future expansion should the need arise. You may want to get some white electrical tape and apply it to the neutral conductors as it looks as though the color is fading on the existing wiring. I'm a big fan of Square D QO series as top quality. Just a week ago I helped someone replace a failed CH tan breaker feeding their heat pump, nothing wrong on the circuit, strictly a breaker failure. Even disconnected and sitting in my hand the breaker handle would not latch on. *I don't think any breaker is failsafe. I've replaced QO breakers that have gone bad after 20 years. I think loose connections and arcing are contributing factors as is continuously pushing the load to the maximum breaker rating. Nothing is ever 100%, however this CH breaker was only around 5 years old, original equipment in a recent housing development. Loose connections and arcing will certainly do in otherwise good equipment. I didn't see any signs of either on the CH breaker, indeed the screw terminals were so tight I had to use a wrench on the screwdriver to loosen them. Perhaps overtorquing when it was installed caused internal damage. I've not personally run across a failed QO breaker, but I'm not an electrician either. I can say that I use QO in all of my personal installations, including my new main panel and shop subpanel which I upgraded at my current house in 2006 and I've not had any issues. |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. *The panels that I usually see now can be top or bottom feed so you should have plenty of slack for your hot wires. Your neutral my be short, but you can splice onto that. Many panels are made to fit between two studs with 16" centers. It looks as though your spacing is less. My first thought is to notch the existing studs, but that may not be possible for you. I know years ago some manufacturers made narrow panels that had extra space at the top and bottom. Here is a link to Square D's catalog. Page 7 and 8 lists the load centers and page 19 has the dimensions. It looks as though they have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate ground bar. http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for the Square D link. Yeah, that panel would work. But I should mention the stud to the left can be moved/relocated and one of the studs is just a filler, so I can go a little wider. I just came back from HD, and they had Siemans and Eaton CH 8/16 boxes. The Eaton CH is a bit smaller than the Seimans, at 11"W X 13" high. Lowes has Square D, but I think the biggest they have is 6/12. I'll definately loook into the Square D though at a supply house. The existing FPE panel In terms of seperate ground bar, the existing wiring in the condo is BX w/o ground, and the feed to the panel is BX and no ground. Do I still need it? I see "ground straps" that come with the new panels, should those be installed? In terms of quality, any of them better or worse? I know Square D has been around for ages. What about the others? *I agree with RBM. If all of your grounds are through the BX armor, then you don't need a ground bar. It is a cheap and easy installation now though in case you add a Romex circuit later. You will need to make sure that all of your connectors and locknuts are tight to ensure good ground continuity through the BX. Do not bond the neutral bar to the panel using the ground straps. That would only be done if this was a main panel. What you have is a sub-panel. The bond strap is already (Or should be) installed at the meter and main breaker location. I think that Square D QO and the Cutler-Hammer tan line are best known for their higher quality, but any brand should suffice for your needs. Murray is made by Siemens and the circuit breakers are interchangeable. Lowes sells GE panels with white covers for apartments and condos. If you are able to move the stud and install a regular size panel, I suggest something like a 20 circuit or 24 circuit panel or at least a 12/20. You will have more room inside of the panel to work in and plenty of room for future expansion should the need arise. You may want to get some white electrical tape and apply it to the neutral conductors as it looks as though the color is fading on the existing wiring. I'm a big fan of Square D QO series as top quality. Just a week ago I helped someone replace a failed CH tan breaker feeding their heat pump, nothing wrong on the circuit, strictly a breaker failure. Even disconnected and sitting in my hand the breaker handle would not latch on. *I don't think any breaker is failsafe. I've replaced QO breakers that have gone bad after 20 years. I think loose connections and arcing are contributing factors as is continuously pushing the load to the maximum breaker rating. Nothing is ever 100%, however this CH breaker was only around 5 years old, original equipment in a recent housing development. Loose connections and arcing will certainly do in otherwise good equipment. I didn't see any signs of either on the CH breaker, indeed the screw terminals were so tight I had to use a wrench on the screwdriver to loosen them. Perhaps overtorquing when it was installed caused internal damage. I've not personally run across a failed QO breaker, but I'm not an electrician either. I can say that I use QO in all of my personal installations, including my new main panel and shop subpanel which I upgraded at my current house in 2006 and I've not had any issues. *5 years is not much of a life for any brand of circuit breaker. I would check the nameplate on the heatpump to see if it the size required by the manufacturer. Of course there is no telling what happened to the breaker during its trip from the factory to its final stop in the circuit breaker panel (Like everything else). |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Be nice if someone would make breakers that fit into the old FPE boxes. In this case, I'd think the OP would use whatever his local electrician reccomends. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org . "bud--" wrote in message ... Someone (dpb?) wrote years ago that there were Eaton-Cutler Hammer guts that would fit in an existing FPE box. I don't know if they still exist or anything about them. -- bud-- ** They do make brand new U.L. approved stab-lok circuit breakers |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
Mikepier wrote:
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a spare. https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE? By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord to an adjacent outlet. You can buy all new replacement breakers for that box, but they ARE pricey: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_hi...ic+fpe+breaker I have a situation in the house I'm renovating where I plan to use this box because it's rated compatible with an existing run of 6ga cable: http://www.homedepot.com/GE/h_d1/N-5...atalogId=10053 The house I'm currently living in has all FPE breakers - they've been tripping just fine for the past 30 yrs, so I haven't worried about them. |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
move the stud and install a regular size panel, I suggest something like a
20 circuit or 24 circuit panel or at least a 12/20. *You will have more room inside of the panel to work in and plenty of room for future expansion should the need arise. How many more circuits can I add? The main breaker in the meter room is only 50A. Besides the circuits I mentioned above, I would like to run a new dedicated 20A for the bathroom( being shared by a 15A circuit now) and at least 1 more 20A for the kitchen counter (code calls for 2, I have 1 existing circuit there already). |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
"Mikepier" wrote in message ... move the stud and install a regular size panel, I suggest something like a 20 circuit or 24 circuit panel or at least a 12/20. You will have more room inside of the panel to work in and plenty of room for future expansion should the need arise. How many more circuits can I add? The main breaker in the meter room is only 50A. Besides the circuits I mentioned above, I would like to run a new dedicated 20A for the bathroom( being shared by a 15A circuit now) and at least 1 more 20A for the kitchen counter (code calls for 2, I have 1 existing circuit there already). ** You can add as many as you have panel space to accommodate. You'll still be limited by the 50 amp feeder and main |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
** You can add as many as you have panel space to accommodate. You'll still
be limited by the 50 amp feeder and main I guess what I'm trying to ask is there any restriction as to what size cabinet I can put in? I am limited to space, but if I could , is there any code violation if I put in lets say a 20/40 panel? I thought the main service dictates how big of a panel you can put in. |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
..
** You can add as many as you have panel space to accommodate. You'll still be limited by the 50 amp feeder and main I guess what I'm trying to ask is there any restriction as to what size cabinet I can put in? I am limited to space, but if I could , is there any code violation if I put in lets say a 20/40 panel? I thought the main service dictates how big of a panel you can put in. *No violation. Put in as big a panel as you think you will need for the life of the condo. The 50 amp main circuit breaker will protect it from being overloaded. If the 50 amp main breaker is old, you might want to install a new one for the best protection. New FPE breakers are still available for the price of a mortgage payment. |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
On Mar 20, 1:10*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
. ** You can add as many as you have panel space to accommodate. You'll still be limited by the 50 amp feeder and main I guess what I'm trying to ask is there any restriction as to what size cabinet I can put in? I am limited to space, but if I could , is there any code violation if I put in lets say a 20/40 panel? I thought the main service dictates how big of a panel you can put in. *No violation. *Put in as big a panel as you think you will need for the life of the condo. *The 50 amp main circuit breaker will protect it from being overloaded. *If the 50 amp main breaker is old, you might want to install a new one for the best protection. *New FPE breakers are still available for the price of a mortgage payment. might be a good idea to upgrade serive from the meter location to a minimum of 100 amps and price a 200 amp upgrade. which might be very little more 50 amps is really low for any home today |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
On 3/20/2011 1:31 PM, bob haller wrote:
On Mar 20, 1:10 pm, "John wrote: . ** You can add as many as you have panel space to accommodate. You'll still be limited by the 50 amp feeder and main I guess what I'm trying to ask is there any restriction as to what size cabinet I can put in? I am limited to space, but if I could , is there any code violation if I put in lets say a 20/40 panel? I thought the main service dictates how big of a panel you can put in. *No violation. Put in as big a panel as you think you will need for the life of the condo. The 50 amp main circuit breaker will protect it from being overloaded. If the 50 amp main breaker is old, you might want to install a new one for the best protection. New FPE breakers are still available for the price of a mortgage payment. might be a good idea to upgrade serive from the meter location to a minimum of 100 amps and price a 200 amp upgrade. which might be very little more 50 amps is really low for any home today It's a condo. He doesn't own the meter base or the distribution wires, if it is like most. Most condos, even the work 'inside the 4 walls' that he has described, would have to be done by an association or management company approved electrician. The whole building may only have 200 or 400 amp service, split among 4-6-8 units. If it has window A/C units, it probably wasn't built as a condo, it is probably an old converted apartment building from 1960s at newest, if the 240v outlets are original. We just don't know, unless OP cares to post more details. Being a glorified apartment, 50 amps is likely adequate, unless he is planning on installing a server farm or ceramics kiln. -- aem sends... |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
On Mar 20, 1:51*pm, aemeijers wrote:
On 3/20/2011 1:31 PM, bob haller wrote: On Mar 20, 1:10 pm, "John *wrote: . ** You can add as many as you have panel space to accommodate. You'll still be limited by the 50 amp feeder and main I guess what I'm trying to ask is there any restriction as to what size cabinet I can put in? I am limited to space, but if I could , is there any code violation if I put in lets say a 20/40 panel? I thought the main service dictates how big of a panel you can put in.. *No violation. *Put in as big a panel as you think you will need for the life of the condo. *The 50 amp main circuit breaker will protect it from being overloaded. *If the 50 amp main breaker is old, you might want to install a new one for the best protection. *New FPE breakers are still available for the price of a mortgage payment. might be a good idea to upgrade serive from the meter location to a minimum of 100 amps and price a 200 amp upgrade. which might be very little more 50 amps is really low for any home today It's a condo. He doesn't own the meter base or the distribution wires, if it is like most. Most condos, even the work 'inside the 4 walls' that he has described, would have to be done by an association or management company approved electrician. The whole building may only have 200 or 400 amp service, split among 4-6-8 units. If it has window A/C units, it probably wasn't built as a condo, it is probably an old converted apartment building from 1960s at newest, if the 240v outlets are original. *We just don't know, unless OP cares to post more details. Being a glorified apartment, 50 amps is likely adequate, unless he is planning on installing a server farm or ceramics kiln. -- aem sends...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Well at this point investigating options is a good idea and likely free ACs, electric water heaters, electric stoves, kitchen appliances, hair dryers and curling irons, todays homes are power hungry. Years ago a customer of mine reported he lived in a condo and his main panel was bad and only 50 amps, and he couldnt go larger. the power company put in a service drop at their expense just for him for free A side benefit.... it freed up capacity for the other 3 residences, after that they upgraded too, although he didnt know the details he said it was a PIA getting everyone to agree but his cost was minimal which he liked |
#31
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
It's a condo. He doesn't own the meter base or the distribution wires,
if it is like most. Most condos, even the work 'inside the 4 walls' that he has described, would have to be done by an association or management company approved electrician. The whole building may only have 200 or 400 amp service, split among 4-6-8 units. If it has window A/C units, it probably wasn't built as a condo, it is probably an old converted apartment building from 1960s at newest, if the 240v outlets are original. *We just don't know, unless OP cares to post more details. Correct, I believe the bldg is approx 60 units total, built around 1955-1960s. It has through the wall A/C's, with dedicated 220V outlets next to them. To my knowledge, all of the units have FPE panels. |
#32
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
*It looks as though they
have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). *They show a picture of the inside on page 7. *You would probably have to go to a supply house that is a Square D distributor to get one. *Be sure to get a separate ground bar. http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...- Hide quoted text - I went to Lowes this morning, and although they only had a 6/12 Square D Lug box, the dimensions are the same for 8/16, which is 12.57" X8.88". It looked pretty tight in the box, with the neutral bar being op top, And only like a inch space on the left side to route the neutrals. If it looked that tight for a 6/12, the 8/16 is even tighter. The other boxes I saw (GE/Murray,Cutler Hammer) although bigger looks like it had more room inside. |
#33
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
It looks as though they
have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate ground bar. http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...- Hide quoted text - I went to Lowes this morning, and although they only had a 6/12 Square D Lug box, the dimensions are the same for 8/16, which is 12.57" X8.88". It looked pretty tight in the box, with the neutral bar being op top, And only like a inch space on the left side to route the neutrals. If it looked that tight for a 6/12, the 8/16 is even tighter. The other boxes I saw (GE/Murray,Cutler Hammer) although bigger looks like it had more room inside. *I think that the Square D box is slightly deeper, but go with whatever box that you want. It's nice to have plenty of working space. |
#34
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
"Mikepier" wrote in message ... It looks as though they have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate ground bar. http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...- Hide quoted text - I went to Lowes this morning, and although they only had a 6/12 Square D Lug box, the dimensions are the same for 8/16, which is 12.57" X8.88". It looked pretty tight in the box, with the neutral bar being op top, And only like a inch space on the left side to route the neutrals. If it looked that tight for a 6/12, the 8/16 is even tighter. The other boxes I saw (GE/Murray,Cutler Hammer) although bigger looks like it had more room inside. I had only suggested a QO because of your possible space restrictions. If you've got the room, I'd get a box big enough to walk in. |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
I had only suggested a QO because of your possible space restrictions. If
you've got the room, I'd get a box big enough *to walk in. I appreciate the suggestion, thanks anyway. |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
*MC seems to be replacing BX and MC lite is very nice to carry and pull
compared to steel. *One of the local supply companies that I deal with only stocks MC. *You can use MC cable, however the armor may not be an approved grounding conductor. *So you would need to install the ground bar for that. Ok, so heres my next question. I saw ground buss bars at HD. How do you mount these inside the boxes? I don't see any holes in the panels that line up, it looks like I need to drill 2 holes and install nuts and bolts. Is there a method of doing this? |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
"Mikepier" wrote in message ... *MC seems to be replacing BX and MC lite is very nice to carry and pull compared to steel. One of the local supply companies that I deal with only stocks MC. You can use MC cable, however the armor may not be an approved grounding conductor. So you would need to install the ground bar for that. Ok, so heres my next question. I saw ground buss bars at HD. How do you mount these inside the boxes? I don't see any holes in the panels that line up, it looks like I need to drill 2 holes and install nuts and bolts. Is there a method of doing this? **You can drill and tap or use bolts. Scrape the paint off first |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
On Mar 22, 4:48*pm, "RBM" wrote:
"Mikepier" wrote in message ... *MC seems to be replacing BX and MC lite is very nice to carry and pull compared to steel. One of the local supply companies that I deal with only stocks MC. You can use MC cable, however the armor may not be an approved grounding conductor. So you would need to install the ground bar for that. Ok, so heres my next question. I saw ground buss bars at HD. How do you mount these inside the boxes? I don't see any holes in the panels that line up, it looks like I need *to drill 2 holes and install *nuts and bolts. Is there a method of doing this? **You can drill and tap or use bolts. Scrape the paint off first Is a condo application with a seperate meter room........ Is the main really a main? or should the grounds be isolated from the neutral like a sub panel is The new main panel should be mounted to wood, and if thats the case wood screws can attach the bus bar to the cabinet, screing thru to the wood |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
"bob haller" wrote in message ... On Mar 22, 4:48 pm, "RBM" wrote: "Mikepier" wrote in message ... *MC seems to be replacing BX and MC lite is very nice to carry and pull compared to steel. One of the local supply companies that I deal with only stocks MC. You can use MC cable, however the armor may not be an approved grounding conductor. So you would need to install the ground bar for that. Ok, so heres my next question. I saw ground buss bars at HD. How do you mount these inside the boxes? I don't see any holes in the panels that line up, it looks like I need to drill 2 holes and install nuts and bolts. Is there a method of doing this? **You can drill and tap or use bolts. Scrape the paint off first Is a condo application with a seperate meter room........ Is the main really a main? or should the grounds be isolated from the neutral like a sub panel is The new main panel should be mounted to wood, and if thats the case wood screws can attach the bus bar to the cabinet, screing thru to the wood ** The new panel is a sub panel. It will probably be mounted to 2x4's on each side. The grounding buss bar ABSOLUTELY CANNOT be mounted with wood screws, screwed through the box. You know Haller, even a broken clock is correct twice a day, I'm not so sure bout you |
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Replacing FP electrical panel in Condo (with pics)
On Mar 22, 5:04*pm, "RBM" wrote:
"bob haller" wrote in message ... On Mar 22, 4:48 pm, "RBM" wrote: "Mikepier" wrote in message .... *MC seems to be replacing BX and MC lite is very nice to carry and pull compared to steel. One of the local supply companies that I deal with only stocks MC. You can use MC cable, however the armor may not be an approved grounding conductor. So you would need to install the ground bar for that. Ok, so heres my next question. I saw ground buss bars at HD. How do you mount these inside the boxes? I don't see any holes in the panels that line up, it looks like I need to drill 2 holes and install nuts and bolts. Is there a method of doing this? **You can drill and tap or use bolts. Scrape the paint off first Is a condo application with a seperate meter room........ Is the main really a main? or should the grounds be isolated from the neutral like a sub panel is The new main panel should be mounted to wood, and if thats the case wood screws can attach the bus bar to the cabinet, screing thru to the wood ** The new panel is a sub panel. It will probably be mounted to 2x4's on each side. The grounding buss bar ABSOLUTELY CANNOT be mounted with wood screws, screwed through the box. You know Haller, even a broken clock is correct twice a day, I'm not so sure bout you- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Well I added a buss bar to a existing main, used wood screws to mount it thru the bar into the plywood mount board.Ran copper line to existing buss bar, so it was properly connected It passed middle states inspection, in the process of a home sale/ the idiot home inspector wrote up the main because although it had the inspection sticker the signature was no longer legible, the ink had faded.you could still see it had been signed Now how would anyone add a buss bar to a existing panel, unless you were willing to disconnect everything, remove the box and use machine screws and nuts... |
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