I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are
known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to
the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on
top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a
spare.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink

Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a
link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by
Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE?

By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of
the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous
owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord
to an adjacent outlet.

Mikepier wrote:
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are
known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to
the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on
top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a
spare.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink

Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a
link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by
Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE?

By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of
the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous
owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord
to an adjacent outlet.

Someone (dpb?) wrote years ago that there were Eaton-Cutler Hammer guts
that would fit in an existing FPE box. I don't know if they still exist
or anything about them.

--
bud--

On Mar 19, 1:11*am, bud-- wrote:
Mikepier wrote:
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are
known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to
the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on
top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a
spare.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink

Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a
link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by
Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE?

By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of
the A/C units is actually *110V and its like new, but the previous
owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord
to an adjacent outlet.

Someone (dpb?) wrote years ago that there were Eaton-Cutler Hammer guts
that would fit in an existing FPE box. I don't know if they still exist
or anything about them.

--
bud--- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, I read about those, but I figure the walls are wide open now, so
why not just replace evreything new.

Much easier to just snap in some new breakers. Compared to
pushing all those wires around. Still, it's a good idea to
upgrade to new, if at all possible.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Mikepier"
wrote in message
...

Yeah, I read about those, but I figure the walls are wide
open now, so
why not just replace evreything new.

On 03/19/2011 10:18 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Much easier to just snap in some new breakers. Compared to
pushing all those wires around. Still, it's a good idea to
upgrade to new, if at all possible.


In the case of a Stab-Lok panel that won't solve all the problems, even
if you can find good breakers. Apparently the bus design of those
panels is a weakness as well. I'd just replace with new. AFAIK
Square-D QO seems to be the most highly regarded residential panel,
although it's the Homeline (less expensive) that uses the standard
breaker/bus size/shape.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Nate Nagel wrote:

On 03/19/2011 10:18 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Much easier to just snap in some new breakers. Compared to
pushing all those wires around. Still, it's a good idea to
upgrade to new, if at all possible.


In the case of a Stab-Lok panel that won't solve all the problems, even
if you can find good breakers. Apparently the bus design of those
panels is a weakness as well. I'd just replace with new. AFAIK
Square-D QO seems to be the most highly regarded residential panel,
although it's the Homeline (less expensive) that uses the standard
breaker/bus size/shape.

Square D QO series is really a commercial series and is found in a lot
of commercial installations. The QOB series is essentially the same
breakers in a bolt on buss style used in some industrial applications.

Be nice if someone would make breakers that fit into the old
FPE boxes. In this case, I'd think the OP would use
whatever his local electrician reccomends.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"bud--"
wrote in message ...

Someone (dpb?) wrote years ago that there were Eaton-Cutler
Hammer guts
that would fit in an existing FPE box. I don't know if they
still exist
or anything about them.

--
bud--

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Be nice if someone would make breakers that fit into the old
FPE boxes. In this case, I'd think the OP would use
whatever his local electrician reccomends.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"bud--"
wrote in message ...

Someone (dpb?) wrote years ago that there were Eaton-Cutler
Hammer guts
that would fit in an existing FPE box. I don't know if they
still exist
or anything about them.

--
bud--

** They do make brand new U.L. approved stab-lok circuit breakers

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are
known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to
the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on
top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a
spare.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink

Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a
link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by
Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE?

By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of
the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous
owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord
to an adjacent outlet.

* Unless you can relocate the cables or reframe the studs, you're gonna have
a problem. That panel was made before minimum wire bending requirements were
enacted, so any 8 circuit flush panel you'd get today will be wider.
Bottom line, you need an 8 circuit "flush" mount panel. I think Square D,
"QO" would be physically the smallest. After changing the one 240 volt
circuit to 120 volt, you will need 1 double pole breaker and 7 single pole
breakers, which will fill the panel, if you get full sized breakers. If you
have need of future circuits you can use duplex breakers or get a larger
panel

I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are
known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to
the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on
top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a
spare.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink

Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a
link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by
Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE?

By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of
the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous
owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord
to an adjacent outlet.


*The panels that I usually see now can be top or bottom feed so you should
have plenty of slack for your hot wires. Your neutral my be short, but you
can splice onto that. Many panels are made to fit between two studs with
16" centers. It looks as though your spacing is less. My first thought is
to notch the existing studs, but that may not be possible for you. I know
years ago some manufacturers made narrow panels that had extra space at the
top and bottom. Here is a link to Square D's catalog. Page 7 and 8 lists
the load centers and page 19 has the dimensions. It looks as though they
have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a
picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply
house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate
ground bar.

http://static.schneider-electric.us/...0110PL9401.pdf

On Mar 19, 8:25*am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are
known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to
the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on
top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a
spare.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink

Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a
link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by
Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE?

By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of
the A/C units is actually *110V and its like new, but the previous
owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord
to an adjacent outlet.

*The panels that I usually see now can be top or bottom feed so you should
have plenty of slack for your hot wires. *Your neutral my be short, but you
can splice onto that. *Many panels are made to fit between two studs with
16" centers. *It looks as though your spacing is less. *My first thought is
to notch the existing studs, but that may not be possible for you. *I know
years ago some manufacturers made narrow panels that had extra space at the
top and bottom. *Here is a link to Square D's catalog. *Page 7 and 8 lists
the load centers and page 19 has the dimensions. *It looks as though they
have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). *They show a
picture of the inside on page 7. *You would probably have to go to a supply
house that is a Square D distributor to get one. *Be sure to get a separate
ground bar.

http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the Square D link. Yeah, that panel would work. But I
should mention the stud to the left can be moved/relocated and one of
the studs is just a filler, so I can go a little wider.
I just came back from HD, and they had Siemans and Eaton CH 8/16
boxes. The Eaton CH is a bit smaller than the Seimans, at 11"W X 13"
high. Lowes has Square D, but I think the biggest they have is 6/12.
I'll definately loook into the Square D though at a supply house. The
existing FPE panel

In terms of seperate ground bar, the existing wiring in the condo is
BX w/o ground, and the feed to the panel is BX and no ground. Do I
still need it? I see "ground straps" that come with the new panels,
should those be installed?

In terms of quality, any of them better or worse? I know Square D has
been around for ages. What about the others?

I'll definately loook into the Square D though at a supply house. The
existing FPE panel

Sorry meant to say the existing FPE panel is 8"X11.5"

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
On Mar 19, 8:25 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are
known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to
the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on
top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a
spare.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink

Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a
link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by
Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE?

By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of
the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous
owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord
to an adjacent outlet.

*The panels that I usually see now can be top or bottom feed so you should
have plenty of slack for your hot wires. Your neutral my be short, but you
can splice onto that. Many panels are made to fit between two studs with
16" centers. It looks as though your spacing is less. My first thought is
to notch the existing studs, but that may not be possible for you. I know
years ago some manufacturers made narrow panels that had extra space at
the
top and bottom. Here is a link to Square D's catalog. Page 7 and 8 lists
the load centers and page 19 has the dimensions. It looks as though they
have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a
picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply
house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate
ground bar.

http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...-
Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the Square D link. Yeah, that panel would work. But I
should mention the stud to the left can be moved/relocated and one of
the studs is just a filler, so I can go a little wider.
I just came back from HD, and they had Siemans and Eaton CH 8/16
boxes. The Eaton CH is a bit smaller than the Seimans, at 11"W X 13"
high. Lowes has Square D, but I think the biggest they have is 6/12.
I'll definately loook into the Square D though at a supply house. The
existing FPE panel

In terms of seperate ground bar, the existing wiring in the condo is
BX w/o ground, and the feed to the panel is BX and no ground. Do I
still need it? I see "ground straps" that come with the new panels,
should those be installed?

In terms of quality, any of them better or worse? I know Square D has
been around for ages. What about the others


** The steel cable is the ground for a BX cable. You do not use the ground
strap, as the ground, in this case being the steel of the cables as well as
the enclosure itself, must be isolated from the neutral bar. You don't need
to install a ground bar unless you plan to install some Romex cables or
other type of cable that used a ground wire. All of the mentioned panels are
fine. Just try to find one that best suits your needs

** The steel cable is the ground for a BX cable. You do not use the ground
strap, as the ground, in this case being the steel of the cables as well as
the enclosure itself, must be isolated from the neutral bar. You don't need
to install a ground bar unless you plan to install some Romex cables or
other type of cable that used a ground wire. All of the mentioned panels are
fine. Just try to find one that best suits your needs- Hide quoted text -

Ok, now heres another question. I am running some new BX.
I see HD has MC lite, which is lite metal clad with a ground.I believe
the outer metal clad is made out of aluminum. It does feel lighter.
And they sell the regular steel clad BX w/o ground. Both seem to run
about the same price for about 100ft roll.
Can I use the MC lite? Seems like you get both a metal clad and a
ground in one cable.

** The steel cable is the ground for a BX cable. You do not use the
ground
strap, as the ground, in this case being the steel of the cables as well
as
the enclosure itself, must be isolated from the neutral bar. You don't
need
to install a ground bar unless you plan to install some Romex cables or
other type of cable that used a ground wire. All of the mentioned panels
are
fine. Just try to find one that best suits your needs- Hide quoted text -

Ok, now heres another question. I am running some new BX.
I see HD has MC lite, which is lite metal clad with a ground.I believe
the outer metal clad is made out of aluminum. It does feel lighter.
And they sell the regular steel clad BX w/o ground. Both seem to run
about the same price for about 100ft roll.
Can I use the MC lite? Seems like you get both a metal clad and a
ground in one cable.


*MC seems to be replacing BX and MC lite is very nice to carry and pull
compared to steel. One of the local supply companies that I deal with only
stocks MC. You can use MC cable, however the armor may not be an approved
grounding conductor. So you would need to install the ground bar for that.
Also you need to use connectors that are approved for MC cable. Regular BX
connectors are not approved for MC although there are some that are approved
for both. You will also need to install anti-short bushings at each end.

I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are
known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to
the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on
top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a
spare.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink

Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a
link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by
Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE?

By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of
the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous
owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord
to an adjacent outlet.

*The panels that I usually see now can be top or bottom feed so you should
have plenty of slack for your hot wires. Your neutral my be short, but you
can splice onto that. Many panels are made to fit between two studs with
16" centers. It looks as though your spacing is less. My first thought is
to notch the existing studs, but that may not be possible for you. I know
years ago some manufacturers made narrow panels that had extra space at
the
top and bottom. Here is a link to Square D's catalog. Page 7 and 8 lists
the load centers and page 19 has the dimensions. It looks as though they
have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a
picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply
house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate
ground bar.

http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...-
Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the Square D link. Yeah, that panel would work. But I
should mention the stud to the left can be moved/relocated and one of
the studs is just a filler, so I can go a little wider.
I just came back from HD, and they had Siemans and Eaton CH 8/16
boxes. The Eaton CH is a bit smaller than the Seimans, at 11"W X 13"
high. Lowes has Square D, but I think the biggest they have is 6/12.
I'll definately loook into the Square D though at a supply house. The
existing FPE panel

In terms of seperate ground bar, the existing wiring in the condo is
BX w/o ground, and the feed to the panel is BX and no ground. Do I
still need it? I see "ground straps" that come with the new panels,
should those be installed?

In terms of quality, any of them better or worse? I know Square D has
been around for ages. What about the others?


*I agree with RBM. If all of your grounds are through the BX armor, then
you don't need a ground bar. It is a cheap and easy installation now though
in case you add a Romex circuit later. You will need to make sure that all
of your connectors and locknuts are tight to ensure good ground continuity
through the BX. Do not bond the neutral bar to the panel using the ground
straps. That would only be done if this was a main panel. What you have is
a sub-panel. The bond strap is already (Or should be) installed at the
meter and main breaker location.

I think that Square D QO and the Cutler-Hammer tan line are best known for
their higher quality, but any brand should suffice for your needs. Murray
is made by Siemens and the circuit breakers are interchangeable. Lowes sells
GE panels with white covers for apartments and condos. If you are able to
move the stud and install a regular size panel, I suggest something like a
20 circuit or 24 circuit panel or at least a 12/20. You will have more room
inside of the panel to work in and plenty of room for future expansion
should the need arise.

You may want to get some white electrical tape and apply it to the neutral
conductors as it looks as though the color is fading on the existing wiring.

John Grabowski wrote:

I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are
known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to
the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on
top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a
spare.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink

Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a
link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by
Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE?

By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of
the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous
owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord
to an adjacent outlet.

*The panels that I usually see now can be top or bottom feed so you should
have plenty of slack for your hot wires. Your neutral my be short, but you
can splice onto that. Many panels are made to fit between two studs with
16" centers. It looks as though your spacing is less. My first thought is
to notch the existing studs, but that may not be possible for you. I know
years ago some manufacturers made narrow panels that had extra space at
the
top and bottom. Here is a link to Square D's catalog. Page 7 and 8 lists
the load centers and page 19 has the dimensions. It looks as though they
have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a
picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply
house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate
ground bar.

http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...-
Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the Square D link. Yeah, that panel would work. But I
should mention the stud to the left can be moved/relocated and one of
the studs is just a filler, so I can go a little wider.
I just came back from HD, and they had Siemans and Eaton CH 8/16
boxes. The Eaton CH is a bit smaller than the Seimans, at 11"W X 13"
high. Lowes has Square D, but I think the biggest they have is 6/12.
I'll definately loook into the Square D though at a supply house. The
existing FPE panel

In terms of seperate ground bar, the existing wiring in the condo is
BX w/o ground, and the feed to the panel is BX and no ground. Do I
still need it? I see "ground straps" that come with the new panels,
should those be installed?

In terms of quality, any of them better or worse? I know Square D has
been around for ages. What about the others?

*I agree with RBM. If all of your grounds are through the BX armor, then
you don't need a ground bar. It is a cheap and easy installation now though
in case you add a Romex circuit later. You will need to make sure that all
of your connectors and locknuts are tight to ensure good ground continuity
through the BX. Do not bond the neutral bar to the panel using the ground
straps. That would only be done if this was a main panel. What you have is
a sub-panel. The bond strap is already (Or should be) installed at the
meter and main breaker location.

I think that Square D QO and the Cutler-Hammer tan line are best known for
their higher quality, but any brand should suffice for your needs. Murray
is made by Siemens and the circuit breakers are interchangeable. Lowes sells
GE panels with white covers for apartments and condos. If you are able to
move the stud and install a regular size panel, I suggest something like a
20 circuit or 24 circuit panel or at least a 12/20. You will have more room
inside of the panel to work in and plenty of room for future expansion
should the need arise.

You may want to get some white electrical tape and apply it to the neutral
conductors as it looks as though the color is fading on the existing wiring.

I'm a big fan of Square D QO series as top quality. Just a week ago I
helped someone replace a failed CH tan breaker feeding their heat pump,
nothing wrong on the circuit, strictly a breaker failure. Even
disconnected and sitting in my hand the breaker handle would not latch
on.

John Grabowski wrote:

I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are
known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to
the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on
top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a
spare.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink

Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a
link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by
Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE?

By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of
the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous
owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension
cord
to an adjacent outlet.

*The panels that I usually see now can be top or bottom feed so you
should
have plenty of slack for your hot wires. Your neutral my be short, but
you
can splice onto that. Many panels are made to fit between two studs
with
16" centers. It looks as though your spacing is less. My first thought
is
to notch the existing studs, but that may not be possible for you. I
know
years ago some manufacturers made narrow panels that had extra space at
the
top and bottom. Here is a link to Square D's catalog. Page 7 and 8
lists
the load centers and page 19 has the dimensions. It looks as though
they
have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a
picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a
supply
house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a
separate
ground bar.

http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...-
Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the Square D link. Yeah, that panel would work. But I
should mention the stud to the left can be moved/relocated and one of
the studs is just a filler, so I can go a little wider.
I just came back from HD, and they had Siemans and Eaton CH 8/16
boxes. The Eaton CH is a bit smaller than the Seimans, at 11"W X 13"
high. Lowes has Square D, but I think the biggest they have is 6/12.
I'll definately loook into the Square D though at a supply house. The
existing FPE panel

In terms of seperate ground bar, the existing wiring in the condo is
BX w/o ground, and the feed to the panel is BX and no ground. Do I
still need it? I see "ground straps" that come with the new panels,
should those be installed?

In terms of quality, any of them better or worse? I know Square D has
been around for ages. What about the others?

*I agree with RBM. If all of your grounds are through the BX armor, then
you don't need a ground bar. It is a cheap and easy installation now
though
in case you add a Romex circuit later. You will need to make sure that
all
of your connectors and locknuts are tight to ensure good ground
continuity
through the BX. Do not bond the neutral bar to the panel using the
ground
straps. That would only be done if this was a main panel. What you have
is
a sub-panel. The bond strap is already (Or should be) installed at the
meter and main breaker location.

I think that Square D QO and the Cutler-Hammer tan line are best known
for
their higher quality, but any brand should suffice for your needs.
Murray
is made by Siemens and the circuit breakers are interchangeable. Lowes
sells
GE panels with white covers for apartments and condos. If you are able
to
move the stud and install a regular size panel, I suggest something like
a
20 circuit or 24 circuit panel or at least a 12/20. You will have more
room
inside of the panel to work in and plenty of room for future expansion
should the need arise.

You may want to get some white electrical tape and apply it to the
neutral
conductors as it looks as though the color is fading on the existing
wiring.

I'm a big fan of Square D QO series as top quality. Just a week ago I
helped someone replace a failed CH tan breaker feeding their heat pump,
nothing wrong on the circuit, strictly a breaker failure. Even
disconnected and sitting in my hand the breaker handle would not latch
on.


*I don't think any breaker is failsafe. I've replaced QO breakers that have
gone bad after 20 years. I think loose connections and arcing are
contributing factors as is continuously pushing the load to the maximum
breaker rating.

move the stud and install a regular size panel, I suggest something like a
20 circuit or 24 circuit panel or at least a 12/20. *You will have more room
inside of the panel to work in and plenty of room for future expansion
should the need arise.

How many more circuits can I add? The main breaker in the meter room
is only 50A.
Besides the circuits I mentioned above, I would like to run a new
dedicated 20A for the bathroom( being shared by a 15A circuit now)
and at least 1 more 20A for the kitchen counter (code calls for 2, I
have 1 existing circuit there already).

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
move the stud and install a regular size panel, I suggest something like a
20 circuit or 24 circuit panel or at least a 12/20. You will have more
room
inside of the panel to work in and plenty of room for future expansion
should the need arise.

How many more circuits can I add? The main breaker in the meter room
is only 50A.
Besides the circuits I mentioned above, I would like to run a new
dedicated 20A for the bathroom( being shared by a 15A circuit now)
and at least 1 more 20A for the kitchen counter (code calls for 2, I
have 1 existing circuit there already).

** You can add as many as you have panel space to accommodate. You'll still
be limited by the 50 amp feeder and main

*It looks as though they
have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). *They show a
picture of the inside on page 7. *You would probably have to go to a supply
house that is a Square D distributor to get one. *Be sure to get a separate
ground bar.

http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...- Hide quoted text -


I went to Lowes this morning, and although they only had a 6/12 Square
D Lug box, the dimensions are the same for 8/16, which is 12.57"
X8.88".
It looked pretty tight in the box, with the neutral bar being op top,
And only like a inch space on the left side to route the neutrals. If
it looked that tight for a 6/12, the 8/16 is even tighter.
The other boxes I saw (GE/Murray,Cutler Hammer) although bigger looks
like it had more room inside.

It looks as though they
have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a
picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply
house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate
ground bar.

http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...-
Hide quoted text -


I went to Lowes this morning, and although they only had a 6/12 Square
D Lug box, the dimensions are the same for 8/16, which is 12.57"
X8.88".
It looked pretty tight in the box, with the neutral bar being op top,
And only like a inch space on the left side to route the neutrals. If
it looked that tight for a 6/12, the 8/16 is even tighter.
The other boxes I saw (GE/Murray,Cutler Hammer) although bigger looks
like it had more room inside.


*I think that the Square D box is slightly deeper, but go with whatever box
that you want. It's nice to have plenty of working space.

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
It looks as though they
have a 100 amp 8/16 panel that's narrow (QO816L100F or S). They show a
picture of the inside on page 7. You would probably have to go to a supply
house that is a Square D distributor to get one. Be sure to get a separate
ground bar.

http://static.schneider-electric.us/...ibution/Lo...-
Hide quoted text -


I went to Lowes this morning, and although they only had a 6/12 Square
D Lug box, the dimensions are the same for 8/16, which is 12.57"
X8.88".
It looked pretty tight in the box, with the neutral bar being op top,
And only like a inch space on the left side to route the neutrals. If
it looked that tight for a 6/12, the 8/16 is even tighter.
The other boxes I saw (GE/Murray,Cutler Hammer) although bigger looks
like it had more room inside.

I had only suggested a QO because of your possible space restrictions. If
you've got the room, I'd get a box big enough to walk in.

I had only suggested a QO because of your possible space restrictions. If
you've got the room, I'd get a box big enough *to walk in.


I appreciate the suggestion, thanks anyway.

On Mar 18, 11:55*pm, Mikepier wrote:
I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are
known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to
the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on
top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a
spare.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink

Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a
link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by
Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE?

By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of
the A/C units is actually *110V and its like new, but the previous
owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord
to an adjacent outlet.

is the entires condo main only 50 amps?

On Mar 19, 10:25*am, bob haller wrote:
On Mar 18, 11:55*pm, Mikepier wrote:





I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are
known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to
the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on
top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a
spare.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink

Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a
link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by
Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE?

By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of
the A/C units is actually *110V and its like new, but the previous
owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord
to an adjacent outlet.

is the entires condo main only 50 amps?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes.

Mikepier wrote:

I am helping my brother in law renovate his condo. He has an old FP
electric panel that I want to replace due to the problems they are
known to have. There is a 50A main in the meter room, and the feed to
the existing panel is #6 wire. The panel supports 2- 220V a/c's (on
top of pic), 2- 20A breakers, 2-15A breakers, and one open slot for a
spare.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mikeroc...eat=directlink

Can someone tell me what panel I would need or maybe point me to a
link of a panel that would work for this application? Maybe made by
Murray, Cutler hammer, or GE?

By the way, one of the A/C's I am converting to 110V because one of
the A/C units is actually 110V and its like new, but the previous
owner never converted the plug to 110V, he just used an extension cord
to an adjacent outlet.


You can buy all new replacement breakers for that box, but they ARE
pricey:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_hi...ic+fpe+breaker

I have a situation in the house I'm renovating where I plan to use this
box because it's rated compatible with an existing run of 6ga cable:

http://www.homedepot.com/GE/h_d1/N-5...atalogId=10053

The house I'm currently living in has all FPE breakers - they've been
tripping just fine for the past 30 yrs, so I haven't worried about them.