I bought replacement lamps for my refrigerator. Both bulbs are new
and I tested them with a continuity tester to verify them. Neither
bulb works in either socket. I also tested the center pin inside the
fridge and it is hot (and will go off when I push the door switch).

Without taking the thing down, I can't see into the sockets. One
thing I noticed is the shell connections are plastic. There must be a
metal pin inside that touches the shell at some point, but I don't see
one. I gave the bulbs a pretty strong twist when I put them in. I
twisted tighter than I normally would have even tried, but neither
bulb will glow.

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

My fridge is a 15 year old Kenmore.

"Metspitzer" wrote in message
...
I bought replacement lamps for my refrigerator. Both bulbs are new
and I tested them with a continuity tester to verify them. Neither
bulb works in either socket. I also tested the center pin inside the
fridge and it is hot (and will go off when I push the door switch).

Without taking the thing down, I can't see into the sockets. One
thing I noticed is the shell connections are plastic. There must be a
metal pin inside that touches the shell at some point, but I don't see
one. I gave the bulbs a pretty strong twist when I put them in. I
twisted tighter than I normally would have even tried, but neither
bulb will glow.

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

My fridge is a 15 year old Kenmore.

It sounds to me like you are on the right track. Bulbs are good as
verified with an ohm-meter. (You could also double verify by
putting into a lamp socket, assuming they have the standard base).

Voltage on the center contact in the fridge socket has been verified
and actually goes off via the door switch.

One question here is:
Where did you measure the voltage to - one meter lead on the center
contact, the other meter lead on ???

Probably you are going to have to get into the socket which you say
is plastic, and if you tear it up, replace it with a conventional socket.

These are messy problems.

Bob-tx

and the other lead

About the only thing it can be is no connection

?
"Metspitzer" wrote in message
...
I bought replacement lamps for my refrigerator. Both bulbs are new
and I tested them with a continuity tester to verify them. Neither
bulb works in either socket. I also tested the center pin inside the
fridge and it is hot (and will go off when I push the door switch).

Without taking the thing down, I can't see into the sockets. One
thing I noticed is the shell connections are plastic. There must be a
metal pin inside that touches the shell at some point, but I don't see
one. I gave the bulbs a pretty strong twist when I put them in. I
twisted tighter than I normally would have even tried, but neither
bulb will glow.

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

My fridge is a 15 year old Kenmore.

?
"Metspitzer" wrote

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

With power off, can you get something under the contact and lift it a bit?
Just a 1/16" may do it.

On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 15:17:39 -0500, Metspitzer
wrote:

Without taking the thing down, I can't see into the sockets

Mirror: Mechanic telescopic or your girlfriends' powder compact :-/

On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 14:33:34 -0600, "Bob-tx" No Spam no contact
wrote:



"Metspitzer" wrote in message
.. .
I bought replacement lamps for my refrigerator. Both bulbs are new
and I tested them with a continuity tester to verify them. Neither
bulb works in either socket. I also tested the center pin inside the
fridge and it is hot (and will go off when I push the door switch).

Without taking the thing down, I can't see into the sockets. One
thing I noticed is the shell connections are plastic. There must be a
metal pin inside that touches the shell at some point, but I don't see
one. I gave the bulbs a pretty strong twist when I put them in. I
twisted tighter than I normally would have even tried, but neither
bulb will glow.

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

My fridge is a 15 year old Kenmore.

It sounds to me like you are on the right track. Bulbs are good as
verified with an ohm-meter. (You could also double verify by
putting into a lamp socket, assuming they have the standard base).

Voltage on the center contact in the fridge socket has been verified
and actually goes off via the door switch.

One question here is:
Where did you measure the voltage to - one meter lead on the center
contact, the other meter lead on ???

My voltage/continuity tester will glow hot with only one probe
touching +12 (I think) I know it will glow on 120V with one lead.
It is a Greenlee Voltage and continuity tester 6706. I love it.

They must not sell them anymore. I couldn't find a picture of it or
how much they cost.

Probably you are going to have to get into the socket which you say
is plastic, and if you tear it up, replace it with a conventional socket.

These are messy problems.

Bob-tx

and the other lead

About the only thing it can be is no connection

It turned out to be something embarrassingly simple. The replacement
lamps' base connectors are too short. A regular lamp works fine. I
almost broke the replacement lamps trying to get them in.

Thanks everyone

On 2011-01-02, Metspitzer wrote:

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

My fridge is a 15 year old Kenmore.

Yes! Jes went through this a couple weeks ago on a 10 yr old Maytag
top freezer when a bad fan motor took out all the bulbs when it died.

I has two lights in fridge compartment and one in freezer, all three
are the same cheapo crap plastic sockets you describe. I also
replaced bulbs, and checked wiring to sockets, all of which were hot.
I finally got one bulb in the fridge compartment to work and let it go
at that. Jes keep trying to screw it in, very carefully, till it
lights. You might try some sorta lubricant, like electronic cleaning
fluid w/ lube, taking care to not get it on any food. It really is
just those really crappy sockets. Maybe a local appliance parts store
would have a suggestion, as I'm sure this is an ongoing problem with
today's cheap-ass refrigerators.

nb

?
"notbob" wrote
You might try some sorta lubricant, like electronic cleaning
fluid w/ lube, taking care to not get it on any food. It really is
just those really crappy sockets. Maybe a local appliance parts store
would have a suggestion, as I'm sure this is an ongoing problem with
today's cheap-ass refrigerators.

nb

Dielectric grease, same as used on the tail light on your car.

Ed Pawlowski wrote the following:
?
"notbob" wrote
You might try some sorta lubricant, like electronic cleaning
fluid w/ lube, taking care to not get it on any food. It really is
just those really crappy sockets. Maybe a local appliance parts store
would have a suggestion, as I'm sure this is an ongoing problem with
today's cheap-ass refrigerators.

nb

Dielectric grease, same as used on the tail light on your car.

I used dielectric grease on my taillight and it fell off the car. :-)

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Jan 2, 3:37*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
?
"Metspitzer" wrote



The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. *Anyone else have this problem?

With power off, can you get something under the contact and lift it a bit?
Just a 1/16" may do it.

Twisting tighter is a mistake. It compresses the flexible contact at
the bottom of the socket. Then you have to tighten even further, and
eventually you compromise the glass to base connection on the bulb.

If you can get to it, usually you can lift that contact tab up with a
dry popsicle stick or something similar. (unplug the refrigerator of
course) Then once it's bent up a bit, screw in the bulb slowly. When
it just lights, turn it exactly 1/8th turn more. Not 1/4 or 1/2 as
most people do.

While I've done this successfully on a number of lamp sockets, I've
also run into a few where there's just no way to get access. Weird.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
?
"Metspitzer" wrote

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

With power off, can you get something under the contact and lift it a bit?
Just a 1/16" may do it.

I agree with Ed on this one. BTDT many times.

Colbyt

On Jan 2, 3:13*pm, TimR wrote:
On Jan 2, 3:37*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:

?
"Metspitzer" wrote

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. *Anyone else have this problem?

With power off, can you get something under the contact and lift it a bit?
Just a 1/16" may do it.

Twisting tighter is a mistake. *It compresses the flexible contact at
the bottom of the socket. *Then you have to tighten even further, and
eventually you compromise the glass to base connection on the bulb.

If you can get to it, usually you can lift that contact tab up with a
dry popsicle stick or something similar. *(unplug the refrigerator of
course) *Then once it's bent up a bit, screw in the bulb slowly. *When
it just lights, turn it exactly 1/8th turn more. *Not 1/4 or 1/2 as
most people do.

While I've done this successfully on a number of lamp sockets, I've
also run into a few where there's just no way to get access. *Weird.

It's ridiculously simple. Just solder the center pin on the lamp with
more solder so it sticks out further, then the bulb does not have to
be screwed in as far for the center contact to touch.

On 2011-01-02, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Dielectric grease, same as used on the tail light on your car.

Thanks for the tip, Ed. I find myself changing the taillights on our
mini-motorhome with annoying regularity. Maybe this will help. I
also heve an aerosol can of electronic cleaner w/ residual lubricant,
but damn if I find it! When I do, I'll report back.

nb

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
?
"Metspitzer" wrote

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

With power off, can you get something under the contact and lift it a bit?
Just a 1/16" may do it.
Good point, I should have thought of that.
Bob-tx

Metspitzer wrote:
I bought replacement lamps for my refrigerator. Both bulbs are new
and I tested them with a continuity tester to verify them. Neither
bulb works in either socket. I also tested the center pin inside the
fridge and it is hot (and will go off when I push the door switch).

Without taking the thing down, I can't see into the sockets. One
thing I noticed is the shell connections are plastic. There must be a
metal pin inside that touches the shell at some point, but I don't see
one. I gave the bulbs a pretty strong twist when I put them in. I
twisted tighter than I normally would have even tried, but neither
bulb will glow.

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

My fridge is a 15 year old Kenmore.
Hi,
Have you checked the door interlock switch? Both bulbs not working at
the same time is suspicious. When you open the door the switch closes
supplying juice to the bulbs. Would you think both sockets go bad at
the same time? I'd check the switch first.

I use nasal sebum on the base threads of any screw in bulb I'm replacing.

Just rub the threads down the side of your nose where it joins your face
and you'll transfer enough of nature's grease to prevent the bulb from
siezing in the socket.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_sebum


Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.


Ed Pawlowski wrote:
?
"notbob" wrote

You might try some sorta lubricant, like electronic cleaning
fluid w/ lube, taking care to not get it on any food. It really is
just those really crappy sockets. Maybe a local appliance parts store
would have a suggestion, as I'm sure this is an ongoing problem with
today's cheap-ass refrigerators.

nb


Dielectric grease, same as used on the tail light on your car.

Metspitzer wrote:
I bought replacement lamps for my refrigerator. Both bulbs are new
and I tested them with a continuity tester to verify them. Neither
bulb works in either socket. I also tested the center pin inside the
fridge and it is hot (and will go off when I push the door switch).

Without taking the thing down, I can't see into the sockets. One
thing I noticed is the shell connections are plastic. There must be a
metal pin inside that touches the shell at some point, but I don't see
one. I gave the bulbs a pretty strong twist when I put them in. I
twisted tighter than I normally would have even tried, but neither
bulb will glow.

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

My fridge is a 15 year old Kenmore.



Do you have the door open?

-Bob

It's ridiculously simple. Just solder the center pin on the lamp with
more solder so it sticks out further, then the bulb does not have to
be screwed in as far for the center contact to touch.

I wish I would of thought of this a few months ago when I tried to install a
new light in mine.

Sometimes the little tab in the center of the socket gets
pushed too far back. The cure is to unplug the fridge. Stand
on your head (or equivilant). Look into the socket with a
flash light in your other hand. Use some kind of metal thing
like a dental pick to pull the center tab of the socked out
a bit.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Metspitzer" wrote in message
...
I bought replacement lamps for my refrigerator. Both bulbs
are new
and I tested them with a continuity tester to verify them.
Neither
bulb works in either socket. I also tested the center pin
inside the
fridge and it is hot (and will go off when I push the door
switch).

Without taking the thing down, I can't see into the sockets.
One
thing I noticed is the shell connections are plastic. There
must be a
metal pin inside that touches the shell at some point, but I
don't see
one. I gave the bulbs a pretty strong twist when I put them
in. I
twisted tighter than I normally would have even tried, but
neither
bulb will glow.

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made
them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

My fridge is a 15 year old Kenmore.

Did it slide down the road, when it hit?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"willshak" wrote in message
m...
Ed Pawlowski wrote the following:


Dielectric grease, same as used on the tail light on your
car.

I used dielectric grease on my taillight and it fell off the
car. :-)

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

Most appliance guys I know. They change bulbs with the door
closed. What a maroon!

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"zxcvbob"
wrote in message ...


The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made
them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

My fridge is a 15 year old Kenmore.



Do you have the door open?

-Bob

On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 15:17:39 -0500, Metspitzer
wrote:

I bought replacement lamps for my refrigerator. Both bulbs are new
and I tested them with a continuity tester to verify them. Neither
bulb works in either socket. I also tested the center pin inside the
fridge and it is hot (and will go off when I push the door switch).

Without taking the thing down, I can't see into the sockets. One
thing I noticed is the shell connections are plastic. There must be a
metal pin inside that touches the shell at some point, but I don't see
one. I gave the bulbs a pretty strong twist when I put them in. I
twisted tighter than I normally would have even tried, but neither
bulb will glow.

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

My fridge is a 15 year old Kenmore.

I think they were serious when people here discussed nose grease as a
lubricant for light bulbs and other things that use the same threads.
Apparently most people have this, you just have to rub your nose with
a finger and rub the threads. I've never tried it, but I have had
sockets which are hard to screw lightbulbs into. Maybe being cold and
with food vapors for years makes this worse. I had a socket like that
just yesterday, in a non-refrigerated lamp. At the time, I forgot
about my nose.

Metspitzer wrote:

Without taking the thing down, I can't see into the sockets.

Yes you can. Use a dental mirror or two dental mirrors or a chunk of mirror
or a dental mirror and a chunk of mirror.

Jon

On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 21:18:11 -0500, mm
wrote:

On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 15:17:39 -0500, Metspitzer
wrote:

I bought replacement lamps for my refrigerator. Both bulbs are new
and I tested them with a continuity tester to verify them. Neither
bulb works in either socket. I also tested the center pin inside the
fridge and it is hot (and will go off when I push the door switch).

Without taking the thing down, I can't see into the sockets. One
thing I noticed is the shell connections are plastic. There must be a
metal pin inside that touches the shell at some point, but I don't see
one. I gave the bulbs a pretty strong twist when I put them in. I
twisted tighter than I normally would have even tried, but neither
bulb will glow.

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

My fridge is a 15 year old Kenmore.

I think they were serious when people here discussed nose grease as a
lubricant for light bulbs and other things that use the same threads.

That is a message thread I am glad I missed, but thanks for the tip.

Apparently most people have this, you just have to rub your nose with
a finger and rub the threads. I've never tried it, but I have had
sockets which are hard to screw lightbulbs into. Maybe being cold and
with food vapors for years makes this worse. I had a socket like that
just yesterday, in a non-refrigerated lamp. At the time, I forgot
about my nose.

?
"Metspitzer" wrote


I think they were serious when people here discussed nose grease as a
lubricant for light bulbs and other things that use the same threads.

That is a message thread I am glad I missed, but thanks for the tip.

It was for real.

Nasal sebum, also known as nose grease/oil, is grease removed from the
surface of the human nose. The pores of the lateral creases (where the nose
joins the face) of the exterior of the nose create and store more oil and
grease than pores elsewhere on the human body, forming a readily available
source of small quantities of grease or oil. The grease is a particularly
oily form of sebum, thought to contain more squalene (C30H50) than the
secretions from other parts of the skin.[citation needed] It is notable
because nose grease is a convenient durable lubricant.
Nose grease can be used to minimize scratches in optical surfaces, for
example when cleaning photographic negatives.[1] Observatory lore holds that
nose grease was used to reduce stray light and reflections in transmissive
telescopes before the development of vacuum antireflective coatings.[2] The
antireflective properties are due in part to the fact that the nose oil
fills small cracks and scratches and forms a smooth, polished surface, and
in part to the low index of refraction of the oil, which can reduce surface
reflection from transmissive optics that have a high index of refraction.
The same effect is sometimes used by numismatic hobbyists to alter the
apparent grade of slightly worn coins.[3]
Nose grease has mild antifoaming properties and can be used to break down a
high head on freshly poured beer or soft drinks. Wiping nose grease onto
one's finger and then touching or stirring the foam causes it to dissipate
rapidly.[4]
The Doctor's Book of Home Remedies suggests using nasal sebum as a remedy
for chapped lips.[5]

On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 16:10:24 -0500, willshak
wrote:

Ed Pawlowski wrote the following:
?
"notbob" wrote
You might try some sorta lubricant, like electronic cleaning
fluid w/ lube, taking care to not get it on any food. It really is
just those really crappy sockets. Maybe a local appliance parts store
would have a suggestion, as I'm sure this is an ongoing problem with
today's cheap-ass refrigerators.

nb

Dielectric grease, same as used on the tail light on your car.

I used dielectric grease on my taillight and it fell off the car. :-)

I used dielectric grease on my car and slid off the road into a tree.

On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 16:37:20 -0600, zxcvbob
wrote:

Metspitzer wrote:
I bought replacement lamps for my refrigerator. Both bulbs are new
and I tested them with a continuity tester to verify them. Neither
bulb works in either socket. I also tested the center pin inside the
fridge and it is hot (and will go off when I push the door switch).

Without taking the thing down, I can't see into the sockets. One
thing I noticed is the shell connections are plastic. There must be a
metal pin inside that touches the shell at some point, but I don't see
one. I gave the bulbs a pretty strong twist when I put them in. I
twisted tighter than I normally would have even tried, but neither
bulb will glow.

The fix has to be twist tighter, but I really really made them tight
the first time. Anyone else have this problem?

My fridge is a 15 year old Kenmore.



Do you have the door open?

No. I'm typing from inside the refrigerator. It's a good thing I know
touch-typing.

-Bob

On Jan 2, 10:17*pm, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:
Metspitzer wrote:

Without taking the thing down, I can't see into the sockets.

Yes you can. *Use a dental mirror or two dental mirrors or a chunk of mirror
or a dental mirror and a chunk of mirror.

Jon

Or a web cam and a laptop.