I measured only 12psi of air in my bladder tank after it was fully
emptied of water. Should be around 28. Need to buy a new pressure
tank (32gal equivalent or bigger) and am looking for recommendations.
I've read some poor reviews of HomeDepot's Flotec tank. Local
plumbing supply scowled when I mentioned Amtrol because they use
"lower grade steel made in China" but I'm not sure how valid that
claim is because he was trying REALLY hard to sell me his floor
model. I've also seen Utilitech tanks from Lowes that appear to be a
good buy.

Is there a quality heirarchy out there for these tanks? All
recommendations appreciated.

Thanks,
Theodore

P.S. thanks for all the great replies to my previous post to
investigate my tank/pump problem!

On Oct 14, 9:43*am, millinghill wrote:
I measured only 12psi of air in my bladder tank after it was fully
emptied of water. *Should be around 28. *Need to buy a new pressure
tank (32gal equivalent or bigger) and am looking for recommendations.
I've read some poor reviews of HomeDepot's Flotec tank. *Local
plumbing supply scowled when I mentioned Amtrol because they use
"lower grade steel made in China" but I'm not sure how valid that
claim is because he was trying REALLY hard to sell me his floor
model. *I've also seen Utilitech tanks from Lowes that appear to be a
good buy.

Is there a quality heirarchy out there for these tanks? *All
recommendations appreciated.

Thanks,
Theodore

P.S. thanks for all the great replies to my previous post to
investigate my tank/pump problem!

One issue is whether you want steel or composite. The steel ones I've
seen look nicer, with a nice bright painted finish, while the
composite ones have a rougher look to them. If it's going someplace
where it can be seen, like beside the house, that may be an issue, as
is how the finish lasts when exposed to weather. The advantage to
composite is that they cost less and won't rust, so in 10 years, they
may look better than the steel one when used outside.

Have you verified that the tank bladder is not holding air and it's
not the air valve that is leaking, etc?

Tank location is in basement corner, so no need to be beautiful.
There's enough corrosion on the tank tee to indicate the whole
assembly's getting on in years. Certainly older than the 6years I've
owned this place.
I've not verified if or where the leak is.
Honestly, I'm worried that if I attempt to recharge the air, some
immediate failure will occur and I'll be without water until I _run_
and get a new tank now. (Is this a legitimate concern?) So just
dealing with the somewhat more frequent pumping (pump engages every 2
gallons used, on average) until I replace.

millinghill wrote:
Tank location is in basement corner, so no need to be beautiful.
There's enough corrosion on the tank tee to indicate the whole
assembly's getting on in years. Certainly older than the 6years I've
owned this place.
I've not verified if or where the leak is.
Honestly, I'm worried that if I attempt to recharge the air, some
immediate failure will occur and I'll be without water until I _run_
and get a new tank now. (Is this a legitimate concern?) So just
dealing with the somewhat more frequent pumping (pump engages every 2
gallons used, on average) until I replace.

I'd not worry, no.

Recharge it will be better for the system than continuing to cycle the pump.

I'd recommend looking at diaphragm type as well...can't recall what the
brand here is--they're blue, though I'll try to recall to go to the
well house and look while I'm out...

--

On Oct 14, 10:35*am, dpb wrote:
millinghill wrote:
Tank location is in basement corner, so no need to be beautiful.
There's enough corrosion on the tank tee to indicate the whole
assembly's getting on in years. *Certainly older than the 6years I've
owned this place.
I've not verified if or where the leak is.
Honestly, I'm worried that if I attempt to recharge the air, some
immediate failure will occur and I'll be without water until I _run_
and get a new tank now. *(Is this a legitimate concern?) *So just
dealing with the somewhat more frequent pumping (pump engages every 2
gallons used, on average) until I replace.

I'd not worry, no.

Recharge it will be better for the system than continuing to cycle the pump.


I agree. The only risk I see is if the valve stem is corroded/shot so
bad that it starts leaking water. And it would only leak water if the
bladder was ruptured. If you have 12 PSI with the tank drained, that
should not be an issue. The only other bad thing that could happen, I
guess, if the air valve is fouled up and you try to put air in it, and
it leaks all the air out, you could wind up with no air at all. But
then you should be able to just replace the air valve, again unless
the whole thing is shot.





I'd recommend looking at diaphragm type as well...can't recall what the
brand here is--they're blue, though *I'll try to recall to go to the
well house and look while I'm out...

--

On Thu, 14 Oct 2010 09:35:34 -0500, dpb wrote Re
Buying a new (well water bladder) pressure tank:

I'd not worry, no.

Recharge it will be better for the system than continuing to cycle the pump.

Indeed, go ahead and recharge. What's more important IMO than the
brand of tank is plumbing it to allow easy replacement the next time
you have to replace it. IMO, just get whatever tank they have
locally.
--
Work is the curse of the drinking class.

dpb wrote:
....

I'd recommend looking at diaphragm type as well...can't recall what the
brand here is--they're blue, though I'll try to recall to go to the
well house and look while I'm out...
....

Gould Pumps Hydro Pro, it be...as someone else said, I'd not be overly
concerned; a tank is basically a tank.

--

A pressurized device leaks air. And you find that surprising? So, hook
up your air compressor, and inflate to 28 PSI. I wouldn't replace the
tank unless it's a fast leak.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"millinghill" wrote in message
...
I measured only 12psi of air in my bladder tank after it was fully
emptied of water. Should be around 28. Need to buy a new pressure
tank (32gal equivalent or bigger) and am looking for recommendations.
I've read some poor reviews of HomeDepot's Flotec tank. Local
plumbing supply scowled when I mentioned Amtrol because they use
"lower grade steel made in China" but I'm not sure how valid that
claim is because he was trying REALLY hard to sell me his floor
model. I've also seen Utilitech tanks from Lowes that appear to be a
good buy.

Is there a quality heirarchy out there for these tanks? All
recommendations appreciated.

Thanks,
Theodore

P.S. thanks for all the great replies to my previous post to
investigate my tank/pump problem!

You guys totally rock!!
Just emptied all water from tank, pumped air pressure to 26PSI (2
below the cut-in pressure of the pump) and turned it all back on.
Now I get 8+ gallons before the pump comes on instead of only 2!!
Even the missus says we've always had the pump kick on after each
flush, so maybe it's been 12psi since we bought the house 4+years
ago. So, I'll keep an eye on the air pressure from time-to-time to
see if/how it lowers. If it doesn't go down any time quick, I'll
conclude that the tank is fine.
Again, thanks to all of you!!

Never having had a well, I'm only thinking out loud. Can you turn off
the well (switch or breaker). Then open a faucet. Inflate the tank to
28 PSI. Screw a cap on the inflater valve stem. Turn the faucet off,
and power on. Would that do the job?

I agree, there are some rather wise and helpful and kind people who
post to this list.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"millinghill" wrote in message
...
You guys totally rock!!
Just emptied all water from tank, pumped air pressure to 26PSI (2
below the cut-in pressure of the pump) and turned it all back on.
Now I get 8+ gallons before the pump comes on instead of only 2!!
Even the missus says we've always had the pump kick on after each
flush, so maybe it's been 12psi since we bought the house 4+years
ago. So, I'll keep an eye on the air pressure from time-to-time to
see if/how it lowers. If it doesn't go down any time quick, I'll
conclude that the tank is fine.
Again, thanks to all of you!!

On Thursday, October 14, 2010 8:43:55 AM UTC-5, millinghill wrote:
I measured only 12psi of air in my bladder tank after it was fully
emptied of water. Should be around 28. Need to buy a new pressure
tank (32gal equivalent or bigger) and am looking for recommendations.
I've read some poor reviews of HomeDepot's Flotec tank. Local
plumbing supply scowled when I mentioned Amtrol because they use
"lower grade steel made in China" but I'm not sure how valid that
claim is because he was trying REALLY hard to sell me his floor
model. I've also seen Utilitech tanks from Lowes that appear to be a
good buy.

Is there a quality heirarchy out there for these tanks? All
recommendations appreciated.

Thanks,
Theodore

P.S. thanks for all the great replies to my previous post to
investigate my tank/pump problem!

My tank leaks air pressure and when I add back air pressure then air squirts out of the faucets. Is the bladder shot?

wrote:
On Thursday, October 14, 2010 8:43:55 AM UTC-5, millinghill wrote:
I measured only 12psi of air in my bladder tank after it was fully
emptied of water. Should be around 28. Need to buy a new pressure
tank (32gal equivalent or bigger) and am looking for recommendations.
I've read some poor reviews of HomeDepot's Flotec tank. Local
plumbing supply scowled when I mentioned Amtrol because they use
"lower grade steel made in China" but I'm not sure how valid that
claim is because he was trying REALLY hard to sell me his floor
model. I've also seen Utilitech tanks from Lowes that appear to be a
good buy.

Is there a quality heirarchy out there for these tanks? All
recommendations appreciated.

Thanks,
Theodore

P.S. thanks for all the great replies to my previous post to
investigate my tank/pump problem!

My tank leaks air pressure and when I add back air pressure then air
squirts out of the faucets. Is the bladder shot?

Sounds like it to me.

On Thursday, October 14, 2010, someone with little to no posting history
to this newsgroup going by the name "millinghill" wrote:

I measured only 12psi of air in my bladder tank after it was fully
emptied of water. Should be around 28. Need to buy new pressure...

Today, a usenet baby and google-groper, going by the name
ralfehr @ gmail.com, located either in Arkansas (possibly little rock)
or Abiquiu NM, replied Millinghill's 3-year-old post by saying:

My tank leaks ... squirts out ...bladder shot ...

Congratulations Ralf Ehr!

You win the alt.home.repair Bone Head post-of-the-day award!

Bend your leaky, squirty bladder over and take your prize!

On Sat, 5 Apr 2014 09:14:29 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

My tank leaks air pressure and when I add back air pressure then air squirts out of the faucets. Is the bladder shot?

Maybe. Maybe not.

How old is your tank? The older tanks, mine is 40 years old, have no
bladder. The phenomenon you are seeing is what happens when you pass
the threshold of the cut in pressure when charging the tank. That's
no big deal.

replying to millinghill, Teverk wrote:
millinghill wrote:

I measured only 12psi of air in my bladder tank after it was fully
emptied of water. Should be around 28. Need to buy a new pressure
tank (32gal equivalent or bigger) and am looking for recommendations.
I've read some poor reviews of HomeDepot's Flotec tank. Local
plumbing supply scowled when I mentioned Amtrol because they use
"lower grade steel made in China" but I'm not sure how valid that
claim is because he was trying REALLY hard to sell me his floor
model. I've also seen Utilitech tanks from Lowes that appear to be a
good buy.
Is there a quality heirarchy out there for these tanks? All
recommendations appreciated.
Thanks,
Theodore
P.S. thanks for all the great replies to my previous post to
investigate my tank/pump problem!

I am at the same point as you, I am in need of a new pressure tank, I
researched the reviews on Lowes website it seems the majority of the
reviews for all the Utilitech tanks are not that great, many are failing
within 5 years or not working right out of the box....

--

On Thursday, October 14, 2010 at 9:43:55 AM UTC-4, millinghill wrote:
I measured only 12psi of air in my bladder tank after it was fully
emptied of water. Should be around 28. Need to buy a new pressure
tank (32gal equivalent or bigger) and am looking for recommendations.
I've read some poor reviews of HomeDepot's Flotec tank. Local
plumbing supply scowled when I mentioned Amtrol because they use
"lower grade steel made in China" but I'm not sure how valid that
claim is because he was trying REALLY hard to sell me his floor
model. I've also seen Utilitech tanks from Lowes that appear to be a
good buy.

Is there a quality heirarchy out there for these tanks? All
recommendations appreciated.

Thanks,
Theodore

P.S. thanks for all the great replies to my previous post to
investigate my tank/pump problem!

Geezz,I'd like to know how to get the water out to change the tank. I see all manner of plugs but no drain,duh. WTF was the plumber thinking? There is a pin hole leak on the side of my big blue tank, another duh?

On Thursday, October 14, 2010 at 9:43:55 AM UTC-4, millinghill wrote:
I measured only 12psi of air in my bladder tank after it was fully
emptied of water. Should be around 28. Need to buy a new pressure
tank (32gal equivalent or bigger) and am looking for recommendations.
I've read some poor reviews of HomeDepot's Flotec tank. Local
plumbing supply scowled when I mentioned Amtrol because they use
"lower grade steel made in China" but I'm not sure how valid that
claim is because he was trying REALLY hard to sell me his floor
model. I've also seen Utilitech tanks from Lowes that appear to be a
good buy.

Is there a quality heirarchy out there for these tanks? All
recommendations appreciated.

Thanks,
Theodore

P.S. thanks for all the great replies to my previous post to
investigate my tank/pump problem!

My tank is only 15 years old with a pin hole now;big blue one. Are there stainless tanks???

On Thursday, March 26, 2015 at 10:49:30 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, October 14, 2010 at 9:43:55 AM UTC-4, millinghill wrote:
I measured only 12psi of air in my bladder tank after it was fully
emptied of water. Should be around 28. Need to buy a new pressure
tank (32gal equivalent or bigger) and am looking for recommendations.
I've read some poor reviews of HomeDepot's Flotec tank. Local
plumbing supply scowled when I mentioned Amtrol because they use
"lower grade steel made in China" but I'm not sure how valid that
claim is because he was trying REALLY hard to sell me his floor
model. I've also seen Utilitech tanks from Lowes that appear to be a
good buy.

Is there a quality heirarchy out there for these tanks? All
recommendations appreciated.

Thanks,
Theodore

P.S. thanks for all the great replies to my previous post to
investigate my tank/pump problem!

My tank is only 15 years old with a pin hole now;big blue one. Are there stainless tanks???

Even if they are avaiable, I don't think you or many other folks
would like the price. They do have fiberglass/composite types in
smaller sizes, up to ~25 gallons at least. Aren't the steel ones
lined with plastic anyway?

On Thu, 26 Mar 2015 07:43:25 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

P.S. thanks for all the great replies to my previous post to
investigate my tank/pump problem!

Geezz,I'd like to know how to get the water out to change the tank. I
see all manner of plugs but no drain,duh. WTF was the plumber thinking?
There is a pin hole leak on the side of my big blue tank, another duh?

If it was installed properly, there would be valve in the pipes, near
where it enters the bottom of the tank. There should also be a union in
the pipes. I have installed many of these tanks. I always have a union
to make it easy to install, and disconnect, and I always have a tee, on
the bottom of the pipes, where one side goes to the bottom of the tank,
and the other side of the tee is a valve (faucet spigot). That spigot
not only allows for draining the tank, but comes in handy for connecting
a garden hose, for example, if you want to wash the basement floor. And
in a place where the plumbing might freeze, that valve allows an easy
way to drain the plumbing system.

replying to trader4, bob wrote:
How do replace the air valve if it's bad?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...nk-577291-.htm

On Thursday, June 7, 2018 at 12:14:15 AM UTC-4, bob wrote:
replying to trader4, bob wrote:
How do replace the air valve if it's bad?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...nk-577291-.htm

The ones I've seen were just shrader valves like those that go in
a car tire. Screw it out with a valve removal tool or a metal valve
cap that has that feature on the end. You then have to charge it to
the correct air pressure.

On 6/7/2018 7:45 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 7, 2018 at 12:14:15 AM UTC-4, bob wrote:
replying to trader4, bob wrote:
How do replace the air valve if it's bad?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...nk-577291-.htm

The ones I've seen were just shrader valves like those that go in
a car tire. Screw it out with a valve removal tool or a metal valve
cap that has that feature on the end. You then have to charge it to
the correct air pressure.


And for Bob, the OP, know also that just because the tank loses that
pressure, it doesn't necessarily follow that the valve is bad. In older
tanks, without rubber bladders, the air is "absorbed" by the water and
the ambient pressure of the tank decreases with time until there is no
air cushion at all. In those types of tanks, routine re-pressurization
is required. Same holds true for a bladder type tank that has a
ruptured bladder. I didn't see where you explained just why you feel
the valve itself is the problem.

On Thu, 7 Jun 2018 08:14:16 -0700, "fake vet Scatboi Colon La Edmund
J. Burke" wrote:

On 6/7/2018 5:45 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 7, 2018 at 12:14:15 AM UTC-4, bob wrote:
replying to trader4, bob wrote:
How do replace the air valve if it's bad?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...nk-577291-.htm

The ones I've seen were just shrader valves like those that go in
a car tire. Screw it out with a valve removal tool or a metal valve
cap that has that feature on the end. You then have to charge it to
the correct air pressure.


That well water is probably contamined with feces.
Why not move to an area where the water is city supplied?
Idiot.

And get city supplied moulie faeces in yer water?

Dumb moulie ****!

- -

" I don't even have the heart to tell him I've never infested
Arizona."
- Klaun ****tinb'ricks (1940 - ), acknowledging that he lied
from the very beginning, A jew scam, as expected

" My real name's McGill. The jew thing I just do for the homeboys.
They all want a pipe hitting member of the tribe, so to speak."
- Saul Goodman (Bob Odenkirk). "Better Call Saul" (2015)

"Die Juden sind unser Unglück!"
- Heinrich von Treitschke (1834 - 1896)

"But vhere vill ve be able to vatch gay jews taking black cock up ze
ass?"
- Klaun ****tinb'ricks (1940 - ), bemoaning the depletion of jews
in Hollyvood and the effect on his viewing preferences
Message-ID:

On Thu, 07 Jun 2018 09:57:51 -0700, serbian bitch Razovic, the resident
psychopath of sci and scj and Usenet's famous sexual cripple, making an ass
of herself as "jew pedophile Ron Jacobson (jew pedophile Baruch 'Barry'
Shein's jew aliash)", farted again:



That well water is probably contamined with feces.
Why not move to an area where the water is city supplied?
Idiot.

And get city supplied moulie faeces in yer water?

Why, you crave and get brown jets of **** in your stupid serbian face every
day after you administered those enemas that you seem to be so hooked on,
Miss Recktum!

--
Anal Razovic's motto:
"An enema for every constipated anus."
MID: